The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

In this interview, I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common neck and back issues in climbers and how to rehab them.

In this interview with Daniel Woods, we talk about his training, comp climbing, his upcoming goals, and the pressure he feels to send.

I interviewed chiropractor Natasha Barnes about the 4 bests lifts for climbers, shoulder and finger injuries, and optimal body weight for climbers.

In this interview I talked with Shannon O'Grady, PhD, from Gnarly Nutrition about what she thinks are the best supplements for climbers.

In this interview, Physical Therapist Esther Smith talks about her protocol for healing finger injuries for climbers. She and Dan Mirsky used the protocol for their own finger injuries.

Body Awareness Interview Details What is body awareness? Why it's important in climbing 3 best movements to train overall body awareness How body awareness is helpful in relationships How body awareness is helpful with nutrition Why that's all important for climbing New Podcast Series with Mercedes! I've talked with Mercedes Pollmeier on the podcast a couple times now (#1 and #2), she wrote an article for us, and she's our in-house online personal trainer for TrainingBeta. So knowing how knowledgeable she is and how easy she is to talk to, I wanted to make her a more constant presence on TrainingBeta. That's why we decided to begin a new podcast mini series together. We'll be talking every month or so about a different topic of climbing training. The talks will be shorter than a normal podcast: only about 20 minutes. They'll be a quick bite of information that will be usable and digestible that will hopefully help your training immediately. A Little More About Mercedes Mercedes is a Strength and Conditioning coach out of the Seattle Bouldering Project. She has a Master's degree in Human Movement and works with climbers of all types and abilities, ranging from elite level/competition climbers to novice alpinists. Currently she works at the Seattle Bouldering Project with climbers and other athletes of all ability levels. She's offering 1-month and 3-month online training programs to people who feel like they need a little more individualized help than our other climbing training programs can provide. She is detail oriented, very focused on proper form, and offers continuous support and feedback to her online clients via the Trainerize app.

About Madaleine Sorkin Madaleine Sorkin is a 35-year-old climber originally from D.C., who's known for her alpine and big wall ascents. She makes a living as a sponsored climber and as a climbing guide and clinic leader. She's currently hosting "Mad Sensei" clinics with Justen Sjong helping people gain confidence leading trad and sport climbs. Madaleine is a mentally tough climber with a lot of experience up high, having freed Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), Leaning Tower (5.13-), El Corazon (5.13b) in Yosemite, and most recently, The Honeymoon Is Over (5.13c) in Rocky Mountain National Park. All of those climbs are nails hard, long granite climbs. In this interview we talk about how she physically and mentally prepares herself for those kinds of endeavors, what she eats while she's doing huge days, and what her current goals are. Madaleine Sorkin Interview Details Highlights of her climbing career How she trains for long routes outside and inside Lofty goals for this year How she trains power outside Resting on big walls: her strategies What she eats on big walls Why weight lifting is important to her Madaleine Sorkin Links Guiding and climbing Website at www.madaleinesorkin.com Instagram: @madaleinesorkin Mad Sensei Lead Confidence Clinics: www.coloradomountainschool.com Videos of Madaleine climbing: Videos Photo Credit Henna Taylor

About Mercedes Pollmeier This is my second interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, our in-house online climbing trainer here at TrainingBeta. She's a Strength and Conditioning coach out of the Seattle Bouldering Project. She has a Master's degree in Human Movement and works with climbers of all types and abilities, ranging from elite level/competition climbers to novice alpinists. Currently she works at the Seattle Bouldering Project with climbers and other athletes of all ability levels. I wanted to ask Mercedes about her training philosophies, and how she trains people online in particular. She's offering 1-month and 3-month online training programs to people who feel like they need a little more individualized help than our other climbing training programs can provide. She is detail oriented, very focused on proper form, and offers continuous support and feedback to her online clients via the Trainerize app. Mercedes Pollmeier Interview Details Her climbing accomplishments and injuries she's overcome Biggest mistakes she made as a trainer in the beginning Her latest discovery about bouldering training Client case studies Why she doesn't believe in taking time off How her athletes stay injury-free What training with her online is like

About Margarita Martinez My first experience of Margarita Martinez was at the Red River Gorge, watching her dance her way up Bohica 5.13b. She ended up falling on it, but I remember her laughing as she fell, and then talking to her later she was as chipper as could be. In this interview, that positive outlook on life and climbing is very apparent. Margarita is originally from Puerto Rico, but moved her in her late teens to be a ballerina, which she did for over a decade. She had to quit dancing because she could no longer travel and raise 3 children. She wanted something to fill the dancing void in her life, and at the age of 34 she found climbing. Since then, she's suffered several heartbreaking injuries and surgeries (broken back, broken ankle, and most recently a serious shoulder issue), but she's persevered and steadily climbed through the grades. Last year, at the age of 58, she sent her first 5.13d in Maple Canyon and has not slowed down since. That was after she was told by a surgeon that she needed to have a shoulder replacement and quit climbing forever. Our good friend, Esther Smith (the PT who's been on the show a couple times) helped her fix her shoulder, and she's now climbing and training harder than ever. Margarita Martinez Interview Details In this interview, Margarita talks about her evolution as a climber, how she trains, and how she does things differently now that she's a little bit older. What We Talked About Training for first 13d at age 58 How she deals with having rheumatoid arthritis How she approaches climbing and training at age 58 What the MaxiPull is and how it helps her endurance Why she weight lifts and what she does Her training/climbing schedule Margarita Martinez Links Margarita's article "15 Truths About Being A Climber" How to Make A Maxi Pull - from Margarita's Facebook page Esther Smith's article on how to Hang Just Right (which Margarita uses) Margarita's shoe insert company (for stinky climbing shoes): www.DryPointe.com

About Danny Robertson Danny Robertson is a climber who lives in Carbondale, Colorado on the Western Slope. He's a 41-year-old Rifle regular who's been climbing for about 15 years. He's a full-time 7th-grade teacher, so he has summers off with his wife Wendy, who's also a teacher. This affords them some great climbing trips and projecting time. Danny and Wendy have been listening to the podcast for a while, and they told me a few times when I saw them that they'd changed their training practices based off of what they'd learned from the podcast. When Danny sent his gnarly 3-year project, The Crew (5.14c), this fall, I decided I needed to know his secrets. Prior to that he'd done a bunch of 14a's, and he considered himself to be sort of stuck at that level for about 10 years. After changing his training, he was doing 14a's and b's much more quickly than ever, and ultimately sent his mega project, The Crew. Danny Robertson Interview Details Scheduling training with full-time job Training without a good gym What he learned from the podcast How yoga fixed his shoulder Training outside - paradigm shift Why more is not better

About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her own physical therapy practices, having healed a shoulder injury through exercises, stretches, and alternative therapies. She works almost exclusively with rock climbers, which is rare for a physical therapist. For a complete bio and list of certifications and qualifications, please visit www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com. This is my second of three interviews with Esther, the first one covering shoulder injuries. This interview is all about elbows. During the interview, you'll hear Esther talking about the videos she created to help you understand what she's trying to explain. You'll find those videos below, as well as the video tutorials she has for sale on her new website, www.selftreatment.com, which very well may make your elbow pain go away without the help of any practitioner. Esther Smith Interview Details In this interview, Esther talks about how to know what elbow ailment you're suffering from, how to treat it, and how to prevent it from happening again. What We Talked About 3 most common reasons for elbow pain Poor climbing form that leads to elbow pain 4 most crucial exercises for elbow treatment Golfer's and Tennis elbow treatment When to rest and when to climb through it Videos for Elbow, Shoulder, and Finger Care 4 Essential Exercises In this video, Esther Smith shows Brittany Griffith how to do the 4 essential exercises for climbers. Rice Bucket Exercises In this video, Esther Smith shows Brittany Griffith how to use the rice bucket properly for elbow, wrist, and finger injuries. How to Hang Right In this video, Esther Smith explains how to hang right on a hangboard, expanding on her article for BD on that topic. Video Tutorials for Elbow Injuries Esther created two videos to help you treat Tennis Elbow and Golfer's Elbow (common climber ailments described in the interview) that are each an hour long. You have to pay for these videos, but it's well worth the investment if you struggle with elbow pain. Esther Smith Links My first interview with Esther about shoulders Esther's website: www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com Esther's new website with resources for injuries: www.selftreatment.com Esther's article on how to Hang Just Right Free videos about treating elbow pain

About Josh Dreher Josh Dreher is, among many other things, the husband of Teal Dreher, who was my first "normal person" interview on the podcast. I wanted to do another "normal person" interview, and I thought that Josh would be the perfect follow-up to Teal. I keep putting "normal person" in quotations because Josh is actually quite strong: a V12 climber. So he's not exactly normal. However, he's had much of his success in the past year and a half after losing about 40 pounds and training diligently in his home gym. I found out in the interview that he actually attributes at least 60% of his newfound success to losing weight. He's been climbing for about 15 years, and he'd done 6 V10's or harder in that time. After the serious training and the weight loss, he's done 36 V10's or harder, and 2 of those were V12's, which he'd never climbed before. Pretty impressive. He also has a full-time job and really only trains in his garage, so I thought we could all learn a thing or two from him. Josh Dreher Interview Details Scheduling training with full-time job How he lost 40 pounds Why he stopped running Moon board training Home gym setup The workout he did right before the interview How he's designed his training plan Dealing with sweaty hands

About Jess Simmons Jess Simmons is a Registered Yoga Teacher (200-RYT) and Personal Trainer (NASM CPT) on a quest to climb harder and healthier. She integrates the physical, mental, and spiritual practices of yoga with modern exercise science for a holistic approach to training for climbing. While we think of yoga as just this tool to help us be more flexible, Jess talks about why it's way more than that: it gives us the ability to calm ourselves down in an uncomfortable situations, it gives us more strength physically, and helps us have better balance, among other things. Jess wrote an article called "The Unsung Benefits of Yoga for Climbing" for TrainingBeta that describes some of the yoga poses she suggests in this interview. It contains helpful photos and thorough instructions for how to do the sequences. Jess Simmons Interview Details In this interview, Jess talks about how yoga does all of these things, and she tells you what she thinks are the 5 most important poses for climbers. What We Talked About Daily yoga sequence for climbers What kinds of yoga to avoid How you can overtrain with yoga and climbing Using breath in yoga helps climbing Yoga for shoulders Jess Simmons Links Jess's website: www.yogaclimbfitness.wordpress.com Jess's article on TrainingBeta about yoga for climbers Work with Jess at 3ClickFitness as your personal trainer

About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a good friend of mine and one of the most interesting people I know. She's been a mentor to me in climbing, riding horses (she was my trainer for a while), and chess (she taught me how to do tournaments). She's not only a V9 and 5.13 climber - she's also the highest rated female chess player in Colorado, a badass breakdancer, and a bona fide horse whisperer. She's a 27-year-old, 5'0" woman who discovered climbing 12 years ago. She's gone through her ups and downs with climbing, but has recently enjoyed consistent progress through training and nutrition. Alex Stiger Interview Details During her time as the head coach of the kids' climbing team at the Spot Gym in Boulder, Colorado, she's seen a lot of improvements in her own climbing. I wanted to ask her about how she coaches her kids, and how she's gotten so strong in the past couple years. What We Talked About How she trains her kids team How horsemanship and chess relate with coaching and climbing What makes a good kids' coach Should kids campus? How her climbing performance shot up Sending her first 5.13s How she lost weight and if it affected her climbing

About Dr. Chris Heilman Dr. Christina Heilman is a Sports Psychologist, as well as a personal trainer (CSCS and ATC) who earned her PhD in Sport and Exercise Psychology from the University of Utah. She is an avid skier, but loves a lot of sports, including all aspects of rock climbing. She does work with athletes of all kinds, one-on-one and in group/team settings. She's also in the process of writing a textbook on sports psychology. Chris is the same sports psychologist you heard Sam Elias talk about in my interview with him about his experience with the BD Bootcamp. He credited Dr. Heilman with a lot of his success after the bootcamp because she helped him become calmer and more focused on and off the wall. Dr. Chris Heilman Interview Details I talked to Chris about how we can all become calmer and more focused as climbers (and in general), and about her experience living and working with the guys' BD Bootcamp in 2015. What We Talked About How she works with people How she came back from a devastating gymnastics injury Breathing exercises you can start doing right now How you can make yourself calm down using just one word Why you should start your day with goal setting Being in "flow zone"

About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her own physical therapy practices, having healed a shoulder injury through exercises, stretches, and alternative therapies. She works almost exclusively with rock climbers, which is rare for a physical therapist. I wish I lived in Salt Lake City so I could go see her myself! For a complete bio and list of certifications and qualifications, please visit www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com. In this first of 3 interviews with Esther, we focused on shoulder injuries and how to heal them. Esther Smith Interview Details Esther recently acted as the physical therapist for the women's Black Diamond Bootcamp, where she helped Babsi Zangerl heal a shoulder injury WHILE she was training hard. Babsi's shoulder issues and how she healed How Esther healed her own shoulder injury The most common shoulder injuries Proper fingerboard posture to avoid injuries What exercises to do to support shoulders How much pain is too much? Esther Smith Links Esther Smith's website: www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com Esther Smith's article on how to Hang Just Right Esther working with Babsi in her BD Bootcamp Video

About Beth Rodden Beth Rodden is a climbing icon and absolutely a hero of mine. She broke barriers for women in sport climbing and big wall climbing, being the first American woman to climb 5.14b, the first woman to free 2 routes on El Cap, and one half of the 3rd team to free The Nose (with then husband Tommy Caldwell). She also put up what was, at the time, the hardest climb in Yosemite, Meltdown (5.14c). She did Meltdown in 2008, and soon after started dealing with some major injuries, including surgery for a torn labrum, finger pulley tears, and a broken ankle. Then, after her body started healing up, she became pregnant with her husband Randy Puro, and she had their son Theo in the Spring of 2014. Beth Rodden Interview Details Beth is starting to get back into training and climbing a little harder, and I was honored to sit down and talk with her about where she is now as a climber, how motherhood has changed her, and how she used to approach training and climbing. Her most memorable climbing achievements How she trained with Tommy Caldwell FA's, FFA's (free), and FFA's (female) Dealing with and learning from injuries Tough pregancy and post pregnancy How motherhood has changed her What her goals are now

About Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I've been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs all over the country for the last 10 years. In 2013, we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were next door neighbors at Lago Linda's. And then a few months later he was kind enough to show us around The Cathedral/Wailing Wall, giving Seth and me encyclopedic beta on the entire crag from the ground. He chucked a couple laps on Golden (14b) that day right after sending Route of All Evil (14a) in the Virgin River Gorge that morning. Mirsky is PSYCHED to climb and psyched to see others succeed. He's a bright-eyed, happy, almost boyish guy with a sneaky sense of humor and a willingness to get a little crazy with friends. He knows everything about the places he climbs because he's obsessed with all things climbing. He's sent 30+ 5.14's up to 5.14c, having taken down The Crew (14c), 50 Words for Pump (14b), Bad Girls Club (14c), Lungfish (14b), and lots of other hard stuff, including an FA of Solid Gold (14c), the direct line to Golden (read his "The Day I Sent Solid Gold" from EveningSends.com). Dan Mirsky Interview Details Last year, Dan did the Black Diamond Bootcamp with Joe Kinder and Sam Elias, and he experienced some serious gains on actual rock because of it. Because of that success and his newfound psych for training in a structured way, he took a job as a trainer in Salt Lake City at The Training Room at The Front. In this second interview with Dan Mirsky we talk about his BD Bootcamp success and the novel concept that is The Training Room. How the BD Bootcamp changed him Sending spree followed by plateau Started training other people The Training Room - what is it? Cardio habits now? Diet is super important to him Current projects and city life

About The Anderson Brothers For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular book, The Rock Climber's Training Manual, all about the training methods they've developed over the last two decades. They're the trainers who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do "Biographie" (or "Realization", 5.15a) and many other hard climbs. But they also have impressive climbing résumés themselves, despite having high-stress jobs and families. Mike is 39 years old and is an Aeronautical Engineer, aka robot developer. He's an officer in the US Air Force and he has 2 young sons with his wife in Colorado. He's redpointed 5.14c sport and onsighted 5.13d, and has done some very impressive 5.13s, including First Free Ascents of Touchstone Wall (5.13, IV), Space Shot (5.13 IV) and Thunderbird Wall (5.13 VI) in Zion, UT, and Arcturus (5.13, VI) on Yosemite's Half Dome. Mark, also 39, (by the way, they're twins) supervises a team of computer engineers and has 2 kids with his wife, and they also live in Colorado. He's an "all-around" climber, having climbed on four continents, established numerous first ascents, freed El Cap, summited Denali, red-pointed 5.14d. Along with their book, Mark and Mike Anderson also partnered with Trango to make the Rock Prodigy Training Center, a hangboard they recommend. They now have a new hangboard, the Forge, which they say is the Ferrari of hangboards. So they're kinda the shit when it comes to training. Anderson Brothers Interview Details In this second interview with both of the twins, Mark and Mike Anderson, we talk about what they've been sending since last time we talked, how their training philosophies have changed, and the academic research they've been doing on climbing training. Mark's send of Shadowboxing (5.14d) Mike's crushing spree (5.14c's and onsight of 5.13d) Mike's research on finger training How Mark trained specifically for Shadowboxing Linear vs Non-Linear Periodization How much weight to add on hangboard Training and sending while having a job and family Anderson Brothers Links Mark and Mike's website - www.rockclimberstrainingmanual.com Article by Mark about sending Shadowboxing New research by Mike about finger strength in climbers Their book, The Rock Climber's Training Manual Their hangboard, the Rock Prodigy Training Center by Trango Their new hangboard, The Forge by Trango Jonathan Siegrist's interview with me about training with the Anderson brothers

About Colette McInerney Colette McInerney is a 34-year-old climber who's been living on the road climbing for the past decade or so. She makes a living as a videographer and photographer all over the world. She's climbed up to 5.14a, and she just did another one of Black Diamond's training bootcamps to see how strong she could get. I wanted to interview Colette because she's really intriguing to me as a friend, and because she's so laid back that it kind of surprised me that she did the bootcamp at all. Colette McInerney Interview Details In this interview with Colette McInerney, we talk about her evolution as a climber and videographer/photographer. Her moderate and laid-back approach to life and climbing is refreshing to me, and her success after the bootcamp is inspiring. Making a living on the road Her long plateau with climbing BD Bootcamp tactics and results Most effective part of training Dealing with injuries on the road Being a "lifer" with climbing Colette McInerney Links Colette on Facebook Colette on Instagram @etteloc Colette's website: www.coletteloc.com Article on Colette in Climbing Mag: "Self Reflection" Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

About Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s. He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write-up on Arc-teryx about his ascent of Direct Dunn Westbay, a 5.14 multi-pitch route at 13,400 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park). He's also bolted a bunch of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond. Besides all that, he's one of my best friends, and I think he's one of the most motivated, positive climbers I've ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are admirable. Jonathan Siegrist Interview Details In this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about how his training has evolved since our first podcast interview a couple years ago. But mostly, we talk about his attitude towards climbing, how he takes care of his skin, and what's next for him. Why counting # of tries is pointless His meticulous skin care How to heal a split tip Body weight and performance (real talk) Why he doesn't fingerboard much anymore Bouldering as training Jonathan Siegrist Links Jonathan on Facebook Jonathan on Instagram @jonathansiegrist Jonathan's website: www.jstarinorbit.com My 1st Podcast Interview with Jonathan Videos of him climbing (lots) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts. [button link="http://frictionlabs.com/pages/training-beta" color="green" size="large" type="" shape="" target="_self" title="" gradient_colors="|" gradient_hover_colors="|" accent_color="" accent_hover_color="" bevel_color="" border_width="1px" shadow="" icon="" icon_divider="yes" icon_position="left" modal="" animation_type="0" animation_direction="down" animation_speed="0.1" class="" id=""]Get Some Chalk[/button] Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Sam Elias One of my first memories of Sam Elias was this: he was climbing on The Crew (14c) in Rifle, and he'd skipped 3 clips in a row on the top half. He was climbing to the death, screaming with every move, and then he fell and came dangerously close to being impaled by a tree right below the route. That tree has since been removed, and Sam has since sent the route. I think that scene personifies Sam Elias: He tries really fucking hard, he's ballsy, he's intense, and he sends hard rock climbs. When I came to know Sam a little better, I found while he's all of those things, he's also sensitive, introspective, and intelligent. He recently did the Black Diamond training bootcamp with Dan Mirsky and Joe Kinder, being coached for several 3-week stints by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. Since those training sessions, Sam has been climbing better than ever, sending routes quickly that he'd put years of work into prior to training. He's sent up to 5.14c sport climbs, he's a competitive ice and mixed climber, and he summited Mount Everest, so he's an all-around excellent athlete. Sam Elias Interview Details In this interview, we talk about what sets him apart as an athlete, how his emotions sometimes have gotten the best of him (as many of us can relate with), and what he's done in the past couple years to calm his anger and anxiety so that he can be a happier person and a better climber. We also talk about how he trained with Kris and Justen and what he's been doing to train since then. Working with a sports psychologist "Flow state" climbing Work/climbing balance Success after BD Bootcamp Diet Sam Elias Links Sam on Facebook Sam on Instagram @bookofsamuel Sam's website: www.bookofsamuel.com Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

About The Access Fund The Access Fund is an organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open for climbers while keeping land owners happy with those climbers. Since 1981, the organization has been helping to end disputes between climbers and landowners and buying climbing land and making it available for us, among many other things. For a full history and overview of the Access Fund, go to this page. Often unnoticed by us climbers, these passionate people have worked hard to keep places like the Red River Gorge and Hueco Tanks open to us. From their site... "Since 1990, the Access Fund has assisted with 59 acquisitions through the Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grant Program and the Access Fund Climbing Conservation Loan Program, helping to preserve over 16,303 acres of land for climbing." See a list of their many good deeds here. Rock Project They also organize something called the Rock Project, where influential climbers teach other climbers how to responsibly and safely go from climbing in a gym setting to climbing outdoors. This is mostly what I wanted to talk to them about, since there's a growing influx of new climbers all over the world, some of whom are doing unsafe and/or unsavory things at the cliffs. My Talk with the Access Fund In this interview, I talked with Brady Robinson, the Executive Director, and Travis Herbert, the Education Director of the Access Fund. We covered a lot of topics, including: Their recent access work Poop disposal at the crag Smoking at climbing areas Stashing pads Music at climbing areas Cutting down trees Putting up new routes And lots of other goodies. If you're new-ish to climbing - or even if you think you know everything about etiquette, please listen to this interview. If we all got on the same page about these things, climbing areas would be much safer and even more of a friendly place than they already are. Access Fund Links Give to the Access Fund: www.accessfund.org Educate Yourself about Etiquette and Environmental issues Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Date: July 15th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Online Training Vs In-Person Training for Climbing This week in our Ask Kris episode, we talked about the pros and cons of 3 different training types: In-person training with a coach one-on-one Online training with a coach one-on-one Online training without a coach one-on-one Hopefully this will shed some light on what you should do for yourself if you're confused about what option to go with. More Details about The Talk Cost of each option Who should definitely get one-on-one work Who could benefit from an online training program New upcoming training options on TrainingBeta Want Help With Your Training? If you're one of those people who could benefit from a pre-made training program, these are our most popular programs created by Kris Peters. They're about $15/month and you get 3 unique workouts every week. Bouldering Training Program Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript Coming soon! m6bgj7z6

Date: July 11th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Joe Kinder This is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old climber from New Hampshire who was one of our sport's first professional (aka paid) athletes. He's climbed up to 5.14+ sport and 5.13+ trad, and he's given back much to the sport by developing a whole lot of new routes all over the US. He's well known for his consistently high level of psyche for climbing, and for being a genuinely good person and fellow climber at any crag. Joe, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky recently completed the BD Training Bootcamp, where they lived and trained together in Golden, CO for several weeks at a time while being coached by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. They all saw a lot of success after the bootcamp sessions, and I talked to Joe about what he accomplished after the bootcamp and how he's changing his overall training because of it. About Our Talk In this interview we talked about his history with climbing, growing up with Dave Graham, why he develops routes, training, diet, and lots more. BD bootcamp results Route development Moonboard training Making a living as a sponsored athlete Diet and alcohol Goals of 5.15 Joe Kinder Links Joe's experience with the BD Bootcamp (Video) Joe sending Maquina Muerte in Spain, 5.14d (Video) Joe in 30 Days in Norway (Video) Joe on Instagram Joe on Facebook Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript Coming soon!

Date: June 23rd, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Training for Climbing on A Time Budget This week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus on as opposed to route climbers, and how you can train at home or in the gym in less than an hour 2 or 3 times a week. More Details about The Talk Quickie power endurance drills When to do circuit training Don't forget about abs! Climbing should be the focus Freebie Home Workout This workout is the same one I posted on the last Ask Kris episode about efficient home workouts, but I figured it's pertinent to this episode, too. So if you didn't do it last time, go get it this time! This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this... Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes) Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability) Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary. Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6 Enjoy! Want Help With Your Training? Each of these training programs contains workouts that are 2 hours or less in duration 3 days per week. We tried to cater to those people who don't have all day to train. They'll get you stronger and more fit without breaking your soul ;) Bouldering Training Program Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript Coming soon!

About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including the Chicago Bulls. He has always been passionate about helping athletes get better and reach their potential. Upon arriving to the Southeast, Joshua quickly realized that his days of team sports were over and that he belonged in the woods mountain biking and climbing. Joshua entered the climbing game later in life at the ripe old age of 24 and for the past decade has been training to transform his body from a 200lb college lacrosse player to a 155lb rock climber. Joshua's progression has been slow and steady up to 5.13 sport and double digit boulders with limited interruption from injury or major setbacks. Amidst having to work long hours as a coach, Joshua has effectively been able to manage his time to accommodate training, getting to the crag, work, and a new addition to the family. Certifications and Degrees Joshua's certifications include NSCA CSCS, NASM PES, SFG Level 2, FMS Level 1, and he completed his undergraduate degree at BGSU in exercise science and completed his graduate work at UGA in motor behavior. Articles by Joshua Rucci on TrainingBeta Joshua is passionate about strength and conditioning as well as climbing, and he's written a good handful of articles for TrainingBeta. Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days? Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days Part 2: Readiness Monitoring Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days Part 3: Efficient Training Skill Acquisition and Technique How Breathing Can Increase Your Strength and Power Periodized Training for Climbing Through his blog entries he hopes to bring the two worlds together to help climbers utilize the science and practical training that he employs with his athletes. About Our Talk In this interview we covered a lot of bases, including how training for gymnastics relates with training for climbing, and much more... Climbers generally lack regimented training, as opposed to other sports Doing more isn't necessarily better How long it takes to see results Why strength training is so important in every sport Will you bulk up if you lift? Kettlebell workout for you Climbing drills for different levels of climbers Should you train to failure or is that dumb? Joshua Rucci Links Joshua at University of Georgia - Athens (bio) Joshua climbing (vimeo) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Efficient Home Training for Climbing This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who had only a few basic pieces of equipment, all the way up to someone who has a home wall, weights, and other equipment at home. He also gives you a few workouts you can do at home. More Details about The Talk How to train with only rings and a few weights How to train with a home wall The optimal home set-up Several workouts you can do at home Freebie Home Workout This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this... Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes) Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability) Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary. Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6 Enjoy! Want Help With Your Training? If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters. Bouldering Training Program Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Dr. Tom Hackett This is an interview with Dr. Tom Hackett, a shoulder, elbow, and knee surgeon who performed all three of my husband's and my shoulder surgeries. Dr. Hackett works out of the acclaimed Steadman Clinic in Vail, Colorado, and has extensive training in arthroscopic treatment of sports-related injuries. Before he was a surgeon, he worked as a mountaineer and a climbing guide, so he knows a lot about what climbers actually do with their bodies, unlike many other orthopedic docs. In our experiences with him, he's taken our climbing goals into strong consideration when deciding how to treat our shoulders, making sure to give us the best chances of fully recovering as possible. He uses what seem to be the most advanced and specialized techniques in arthroscopic surgery, and he discusses the fact that some other docs are falling behind in that regard. More About Our Talk The most common injuries in climbers, and how to treat them How to find the best surgeon for your shoulder The differences between his techniques and the old ways The different surgeries for different injuries Recovery times and what to expect What you really can and can't tell from an MRI Alternative treatments for shoulder injuries Dr. Tom Hackett Links Dr. Hackett's website: www.doctorhackett.com Dr. Hackett on "The Dr.'s" as one the "Most Beautiful Male Doctors in America" (Video) Dr. Hackett on the U.S. Snowboarding team (article) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that builds up in your body to make you feel "pumped", and it comes partially from having a high heart rate during activity. In terms of lactic acid, we talk about: how you can increase your lactic acid threshold how a climber might test their lactic acid threshold just like runners do what to do with that information and how to decrease the lactic acid build-up while you're climbing One of the big ways to decrease lactic acid build-up while you're climbing is to decrease your heart rate while you're climbing, and one way to train that is with a heart rate monitor. Regarding training with a heart rate monitor, we talk about: how to train with a heart rate monitor at what level of your max heart rate you should be training what kinds of workouts you can do to train at difference percentages of your max how monitoring your heart rate helps you avoid overtraining This was one of my favorite talks with Kris because it's one of the few training tactics in climbing that are completely numbers-based and easily tracked and monitored. I hope you get something out of this one! I'm looking into getting a heart rate monitor right now myself... Want Help With Your Training? If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters. Bouldering Training Program Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Lynn Hill This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was a fierce competitor. She has over 30+ international titles and claimed 5 victories at the Arco Rock Master. More than once, she was the only person - man or woman - to do a route at a comp. These days, she's a mother and an entrepreneur, and has settled down a bit. We talked about how she used to train for projects, what it was like back in the day, and the inequalities between women and men in the sport. More About Our Talk How she trained for the Nose and other climbs The significance of FFA's Whether men and women should compete on the same routes at comps Her weight lifting records How to overcome fear and be bold like Lynn Motherhood and how it changed her climbing Lynn Hill Links Lynn's website: www.lynnhillclimbing.com Lynn's Instagram: @_linacolina_ Lynn on David Letterman (Video) Lynn on the Nose (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need. Here's what we talked about: What overtraining looks like How long you should feel tired after starting a training program The emotional effects of training and overtraining Sugar cravings, hunger, and overtraining Kris's Programs Have Rest Built In To Them All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have rest built into every 6-week cycle so that you don't and overtrain. He knows all too well that not resting enough creates injuries, exhaustion, and burnout. In each 6-week cycle, you actually do 5 weeks of training and 1 week of active resting (meaning, you don't take the entire week off if you don't want to - you just don't train hard during that time). If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program. More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Ryan Vachon This is an interview with Ryan Vachon, a 43-year-old who won the Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition this year (2016) and sent Saphira, M15- shortly afterward. As a full-time climate scientist at his company, Earth Inititiatives, he has a lot on his plate. He's the ultimate weekend warrior, and he puts in long hours of training most weeks in order to stay super fit. Ryan is a Rab athlete, and we recently teamed up with Rab to get you a 20% discount on their stuff. Get the discount here. More About Our Talk What is mixed climbing and where do we draw the line between mixed and sport? Work/life balance His intense 30-minute sessions Exactly how he trains How his vegetarian diet affects his climbing Why the M Scale is "weird" Ryan Vachon Links Ryan's work website: earth-initiatives.org Ryan's Instagram: @nerd_in_nature A recap of Ouray with footage of Ryan winning this year (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbing. I was actually a little bit confused about what "fitness" really meant, and Kris helped me understand what it is and how to gain more of it. Here's what we talked about: What fitness actually is Specific workouts you should do to train fitness How I should train for my long-ass route project Who needs fitness? How a workout that has no climbing in it can improve your climbing fitness Train Your Fitness with Kris's Programs All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on overall fitness. He's a big advocate for creating great all-around athletes because he believes that strong people make strong climbers. If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program. More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Aaron Mulkey This is an interview with Aaron Mulkey, the 39-year-old who was dubbed the "Patriarch of Cody Ice" for his 100+ first ascents in the Wyoming area. We dig in to what motivates him to find new routes and climb so hard, all while maintaining a full-time high-stress job and helping to raise two teenagers. He's been training his butt off and divulges all the details about his daily, monthly, and yearly cycles of training so he can stay strong all year. More About Our Talk Ice climbing training and how it ties in with climbing and kayaking training How his tenacity and stubbornness help him succeed How he trains fitness for all-day climbing Training with Connie at the Alpine Training Center How he maintains a full-time job and still finds time to climb Aaron Mulkey Links Aaron's website: www.coldfear.com Aaron's Instagram: @coldfear Aaron climbing ice in Norway (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Improving Core Strength for Climbing This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, so I loved this episode. Here's what we talked about: What our "core" actually is What exercises you should do to train core strength How I should train for my core-intensive kneebar crux Why we don't train core with low reps/high weights How to train your lower back to avoid injury Train Your Core with Kris's Programs All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on core stability and strength. If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program. More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program Freebie Core Workout Do all of the exercises below without stopping, except for the noted rest times. TRX Pikes (Video): Reps: 25 Rest: 10 seconds TRX Saws (Video): Reps: 25 Rest: 10 seconds AB Hip Raises (Video): 25 reps Rest: 10 seconds TRX Planks (Video): 1 minute Sets: 2-4 Rest: 1-2 minutes between sets Toes to bar Reps: 15 Sets: 4 Rest: 1 minute between sets Ab Roller Reps: 20 Sets: 4 Rest: 45 seconds between sets V-Ups (Video) 25 v-ups Sets: 4 Rest: 90 seconds between sets All done - nice work! Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Mathilde Becerra This is an interview with 25 year-old Mathilde Becerra, who's on the French National Climbing team. In 2015, Mathilde ended up in the top 10 overall in lead climbing, and even though she doesn't have much time for outdoor climbing, she has climbed up to 5.14a and V11 outside. You may have heard Mathilde's name in my last interview with Sean McColl because she's his long-time girlfriend. I thought it'd be really interesting to hear from a European lady crusher. She started climbing when she was a kid, and excelled very quickly. In this interview, we talked about what it's like being on the French team (as opposed to the US or Canadian team), how she makes it work financially as a full-time pro climber, and how she trains physically and mentally to perform so well at comps. More About Our Talk What her training cycles look like How she trains for route climbing and bouldering Aerobic conditioning How she trains to be more dynamic as a short climber Her strong opinions on bodyweight and climbing performance Her diet Mathilde Becerra Links Mathilde's website: www.mathildebecerra.com Mathilde on Facebook Mathilde's Instagram: @mathilde_becerra Mathilde in Bishop in 2015 (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Shoulder Care for ClimbersThis week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris,wedecided to talk about shoulders - one of my favorite topics.Alot of climbers have shoulder issues, and we discuss how toavoidinjuries and how to prevent them. Most common shoulder issues for climbersWhen to see a doctorWhat exercises you should do for injury preventionWhat exercises you should avoid when you have an injuryMore about Neely's experience with shoulder surgeryTrain Your Shoulders with Kris's ProgramsAll of the programs that Kris wrote fortrainingbeta.comhave a focus on shoulder stability, strength, andinjuryprevention.If you want 3 complete workouts every weektoget you stronger and help you stay injury free, check outourboulderingtraining program or our routetrainingprogram. More about KrisTrainwithKris one-on-one or online Train bouldering or routeclimbing usingone of Kris's programs on TrainingBetaKris's 6-Week Power Endurance ProgramPlease Review The Podcast on iTunes!Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.Please give the podcast an honest reviewoniTunes here to help the show reach morecuriousclimbers around the world ;)

About Sean McColl This is an interview with 28 year-old Sean McColl, a well-known Canadian climber who's accomplished amazing things both outdoors and in competitions. I can't describe his amazing accomplishments better than he does on his website, so here's an excerpt... "Sean was the Canadian Youth Champion in his age group ever year from 1999-2005 having won every National Championships he attended. During his youth career, Sean claimed 5 world titles; since no other youth competitor has won more titles; this achievement is unsurpassed in youth climbing history to this day." "Since Sean started competing on the World Cup circuit, he has won 4 events (2 in bouldering, 2 in lead) and been on the podium another 23 times. Sean has won the Overall CombinedRankings and has been 2rd and 3rd in the Lead and Boulder Overall rankings respectively." "As an outdoor climber, Sean has onsighted 5.14a (8b+) and climbed multiple 5.14d’s (9a). On the bouldering side, Sean is one of a dozen climbers in the world to flash the grade of V13 (8B) and redpoint V15 (8C)." He seems to only be getting stronger as he gets older. In March of this year (2016), he won the Rab CWIF, a big competition in Sheffield, England, where he beat out Ty Landman, Jimmy Webb, and Jorg Verhoeven (video). He spends most of his year training for competitions, and only sometimes makes it outside to climb on real rock. Whew! Sean is a badass. We've all seen videos of his crazy training (here he is on the campus board), but I wanted to find out more details about how he trains. What We Talked About How he trained as a kid What his training cycles look like Training for bouldering vs route climbing Campus board, fingerboard, climbing drills His schedule His diet Sean McColl Links Sean's website: www.seanmccoll.com Sean on Facebook Sean's Instagram: @mccollsean Sean on Dreamcatcher (14d in Squamish) (Video)

Training for Bouldering vs Routes This week, in our third mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about the similarities and differences between training for bouldering vs routes, and what crossover there is between them. Why route climbers need to train power and how to do it Why boulderers need to train fitness and how to do it The best climbing drills for each The best weight lifts for each Relevant Links More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Teal Dreher This is an interview with Teal Dreher, a V8 boulderer who climbed through the grades in just a few years using various training programs. She also regularly puts in 70 hours per week as an environmental engineer, so I thought she'd be a perfect person to represent normal non-pro climbers. She takes us through her evolution of climbing training, starting with the Anderson brothers' program, then through Eric Horst's teachings, and finally with our very own Kris Peters, who she's currently training with. I honestly loved talking with Teal because I felt like we could relate on climbing on a different level than my pro climber guests. I hope you like this very informative conversation as much as I did! What We Talked About V8 in 3 years Anderson Bros' program vs Horst's program vs Kris Peters' program Juggling training and working Teal Dreher Links Teal's website: www.tealasaurus.wordpress.com Teal's Instagram: @tealasaurus Teal on Barfly V8 in Little Cottonwood Canyon (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

New Ask Kris Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing the regular podcast episodes every week, too! We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these mini episodes. This week, in our second episode, we decided to talk about the three best lifts for rock climbers. Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. He's seen his methods work on 100's of climbers so far, and so I thought I'd give him a platform to share his knowledge with you guys. Here's episode 2 of "Ask Kris", and hopefully we'll get one out every week. If you have a question for him, email me at [email protected] and we'll try to answer it. 3 Best Lifts for Climbers Why climbers should weight lift Why some strong climbers can get away with not weight lifting What the 3 best lifts are, why, and how to do them Kris Peters Links More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online Kris's online programs you can start following today with 3 workouts/week (bouldering and route training) Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program

About Mercedes Pollmeier This is an interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, a Strength and Conditioning coach out of Seattle, Washington. She has a Master's degree in Human Movement and started working with climbers of all abilities, including elite level/competition climbers, in Colorado. Currently she works at the Seattle Bouldering Project with climbers and other athletes of all ability levels. I wanted to ask Mercedes about her training philosophies, and how she trains intermediate climbers in particular. Also, if you detect an accent, it's Australian. She came to the States in the early 2000's and promptly got rid of her accent, which I find amazing, seeing as how I can't even lose my Wisconsin accent... What We Talked About 5.10 and 5.11 training What ARCing is and how to use it How to break into 5.11 or 5.12 Training for 5.11 vs 5.13 The most important lifts for a climber Her book on training, Simple Strength Mercedes Pollmeier Links Mercedes Pollmeier's website Mercedes' article on Quadrupedal Movements for Climbers Mercedes' book, Simple Strength, on Amazon Training videos by Mercedes Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these episodes. This week, we decided to start with finger training, since it's such a popular topic. Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. He's seen his methods work on 100's of climbers so far, and so I thought I'd give him a platform to share his knowledge with you guys. Here's episode 1 of "Ask Kris", and hopefully we'll get one out every week. If you have a question for him, email me at [email protected] and we'll try to answer it. What We Talked About How he likes to train finger strength Who should train finger strength and who should not What "repeaters" are and how to do them Kris Peters Links More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online Kris's online programs you can start following today with 3 workouts/week (bouldering and route training) Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)