The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.

I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.

Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.

Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.

I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.

Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.

Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.

In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.

In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.

In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.

In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.

In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and why becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.

In this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train.

In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame a fear of falling after a climbing accident, and her dialed-in diet.

I talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.

In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.

In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.

In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.

In this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbing.

In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.

Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective.

In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment.

This interview is all about hip and knee injuries. We talk about the most common hip and knee injuries among climbers, why we get them, what they feel like, how to get a proper diagnosis, and mostly… how to make the injuries go away.

Matt Pincus is a good friend of mine and he's my right hand man at TrainingBeta. He's basically the person who keeps this website running. He manages and writes the blog, he manages our social media presence, and he's added Online Climbing Trainer to his resume. Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming, and currently living in his van on the road. He's climbed up to 5.14a and V12 and is constantly changing and tweaking the ways he trains as he learns new things. Because of his success with his own training and climbing, he began training others. Matt's ability to listen to people's needs, his attention to detail, and his keen interest in all things training contribute to his ability to create effective training plans for his clients. I wanted to talk with him about how he approaches training people online, as well as his own climbing and training. If you're interested in training with Matt after listening to this interview, you can sign up to work with him at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about his 4-step pyramid for healing climbing injuries like shoulder impingement, rotator cuff strain, and neck strain.