The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into 5.13 and what you need to do physically and mentally to do it. We both share our experiences of our first 5.13's, which were quite different actually, and our processes of projecting things that are hard for us. We talk about how to turn the try-hard switch on and off on hard routes, and how to stay focused and calm enough to not overgrip and get super pumped. We also talk about resting tactics, and how important it is to be able to rest on hard routes, whether it's on the route, between burns, or the days leading up to getting on your project. Alex even shares some resting drills to use to practice at the gym. We discuss how your training needs to change from generalized strength and technique to more route-specific technique and strength building. And how to do that in the gym. I talk a little bit about proper nutrition on projecting days (and the days leading up to them) and Alex shares her story of how I helped her tweak her diet to make her projecting days more productive. We also discuss advanced techniques like heel hooks and knee bars, as well as some mental tricks for avoiding overwhelm on big projects. I loved this conversation with Alex, and whether you're breaking into 5.12+, 13- or 5.13, the tips in here should help you. Episode Details Our first 5.13a's and how hard they felt for us, mentally and physically Our processes for projecting hard things How to turn the try-hard switch on and off on routes Resting tactics and drills Why skipping clips is not always the answer to being pumped Transitioning from general training to specific technique building Nutrition for big projects Avoiding overwhelm on a daunting project How many tries is too many tries Why it's ok to not get to the top on your first tries Show Links Work with Alex as your coach Join Alex's next Team Program Work on your nutrition with Neely Have questions? Email [email protected] or [email protected] Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

TBP 182 :: How Brian Lichtenheld Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job Brian Lichtenheld is one of my close friends and one of my favorite climbing partners. I asked him to be on the show because I don't know another non-professional climber who is more psyched on climbing, and I wanted to share his infectious positive attitude with you. No matter what season it is, Brian climbs outside a LOT. During the spring, summer, and fall, he's basically outside 4 days per week, and that is on top of having a very demanding 50 hour-a-week job as a Certified Financial Planner. He's also devoted to spending quality time with his girlfriend, as well as having regular volunteer commitments, among other interests. Despite having time commitments and life stressors like the rest of us, Brian just makes it work all the time, rain or shine, and I'm constantly inspired by him. In our conversation, we talk about why climbing is so important to him and how he manages his schedule to accommodate everything. We talk about his level-headed approach to long-term projects and how he never tosses wobblers or seemingly ever even gets upset when he fails. Over the years, Brian has only gotten stronger and better at climbing, and at the age of 36 he has climbed 182 routes between 5.13a and 5.14a. He's a solid climber, and we can all learn something from him about making it work, no matter what. Brian Lichtenheld Interview Details Who Brian is: his work, other activities, relationships, volunteering How he climbs 4 days a week outside How he balances his relationship with his girlfriend with climbing (she's not a climber) How he injects his core value of sustainability into his job as a certified financial planner How he structures his days to fit it all in What he loves about climbing soooo much What he's learned about his vegan diet and recovery/fueling How resting more actually helped him What training he does and how he fits it in Show Links Brian's Instagram Brian's 8a.nu scorecard Brian's work bio Our training programs Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain faster. Evan works to identify the underlying cause of the problem and uses a combination of manual therapy and advanced exercises to return climbers to the wall better than they were before. He treats climbers at all levels, from beginners to international competitors and has the experience and equipment to create high level exercise programs specifically catered to the unique challenges of rock climbing. In addition to being a board-certified specialist in orthopedics, Evan is a lifelong climber and 10-time national competitor. Evan is also one of Coach Alex Stiger's physical therapists, and she recognized that his cutting edge approach to injuries was something she wanted the TrainingBeta community to be exposed to. So she interviewed Evan all about how to assess and understand your injuries as a rock climber so you don't feel lost when you have one. In this interview, she and Dr. Ingerson discuss how to know when to go to a doctor, a surgeon, the ER, a PT, an acupuncturist, or some other specialist. They also delve into the contentious topic of whether or not to ice an injury, and so much more… Even if you don't have an injury right now, this interview will help you figure out a plan if you ever do get injured. Climbing Injury Interview Details What to do immediately following an injury When to get an x-ray or other imaging When to use a brace When to do dry needling, and what that is When to get spinal manipulations/adjustments How to choose a medical professional to help with sport specific injuries When to consult with a surgeon Managing low-level injuries on a climbing trip Show Links Work with Evan at his clinic Mend Evan's article on TrainingBeta about the posterior chain Work with Alex as your coach Gymnastic Rings Workshop for Climbers Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain faster. Evan works to identify the underlying cause of the problem and uses a combination of manual therapy and advanced exercises to return climbers to the wall better than they were before. He treats climbers at all levels, from beginners to international competitors and has the experience and equipment to create high level exercise programs specifically catered to the unique challenges of rock climbing. In addition to being a board-certified specialist in orthopedics, Evan is a lifelong climber and 10-time national competitor. Evan is also one of Coach Alex Stiger's physical therapists, and she recognized that his cutting edge approach to injuries was something she wanted the TrainingBeta community to be exposed to. So she interviewed Evan all about how to assess and understand your injuries as a rock climber so you don't feel lost when you have one. In this interview, she and Dr. Ingerson discuss how to know when to go to a doctor, a surgeon, the ER, a PT, an acupuncturist, or some other specialist. They also delve into the contentious topic of whether or not to ice an injury, and so much more… Even if you don't have an injury right now, this interview will help you figure out a plan if you ever do get injured. Climbing Injury Interview Details What to do immediately following an injury When to get an x-ray or other imaging When to use a brace When to do dry needling, and what that is When to get spinal manipulations/adjustments How to choose a medical professional to help with sport specific injuries When to consult with a surgeon Managing low-level injuries on a climbing trip Show Links Work with Evan at his clinic Mend Evan's article on TrainingBeta about the posterior chain Work with Alex as your coach Gymnastic Rings Workshop for Climbers Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he's been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He's currently taking 4 new clients, so if you'd like to work with him, you can sign up here. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There's also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases. Learn More about the Bouldering Program Here Grades – How to Keep Your Ego in Check and Use Them to Your Advantage In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I wax philosophical about climbing grades. This is a ubiquitous topic that all climbers discuss, and a topic that can derail a climbing day or motivate the heck out of a climber. We go over why there is so much discrepancy in grades between different crags and bouldering areas around the world, as well as within climbing gyms. And we talk about why ultimately it doesn't matter what something is graded – it's about what a climb can teach you. But there are some grievances aired and some pleas for certain behaviors to change when it comes to discussions of grades. This conversation definitely included some coaching tidbits from Matt on how to approach grades, but we also just kind of… talked. I hope this helps you get your thoughts on grades more crystal clear so you can more easily move through any discomfort about grades ("This climb is WAY harder than what the grade says!" or "Why can't I do this – this grade is usually easy for me?" or "That can't possibly be that hard of a grade – I did it so easily…"). Enjoy! Episode Details The subjective nature of grades around the world Importance of taking grades with a grain of salt Why things are graded the way they are, and why some areas are stouter than others Particularly why Rifle has an abundance of hard 13d's How to think of a route that's hard for the grade as a personal challenge rather than a punch to the gut How I deal with the "unfairness" of being short The importance of climbing style and perception of difficulty Remembering that it really just doesn't matter Show Links Bouldering Program (Levels 1-3) to help you work your way up the grades Work with Matt as your coach Work with Neely as your nutritionist Have topics you want us to cover? Email [email protected] or [email protected] Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Photo Credit Photo of Matt Pincus on The Plastic Shaman 5.14a by Liz Rasnick @escharas21

I'm Taking New Nutrition Clients I'm currently taking on 5 new nutrition clients, so if you're looking for help on optimizing your diet for climbing, or you have some other health issues you'd like help with, I'm here for you! You can find out more about my nutrition offerings here. About Laura Schmidt My original idea for this podcast was to have a former nutrition client on the show to do a refresher session with them. I thought I'd show you how I work with clients and let you learn from their situation and how I worked with them. When my former client Laura Schmidt responded to my call for potential interviewees, she said she'd love to be on the show and that things were going really well for her. But I had no idea how well they were going until this interview happened. She basically had a life transformation since working with me a year ago, and it had a lot to do with her willingness to fully embrace the suggestions I made for her diet, sleep, and exercise habits. In the episode, Laura Schmidt talks about the changes she made to her diet and lifestyle since we worked together and how they improved her energy levels, her climbing, and her quality of life. We worked together for one month, and when I first met her, she had a food aversion, meaning she really didn't enjoy eating, and she had some disordered eating behaviors. Her energy was very low most of the time, and she had a hard time getting through workouts or climbing days without feeling totally exhausted during and after her sessions. She was underweight and not where she wanted to be with her climbing. Through working together, I made suggestions to make her meals more palatable, encouraged her to eat 3 full meals per day instead of snacking all the time, and I gave her some solid recommendations for calorie and macro amounts to help stabilize her energy. In this conversation we talk about the changes she made, what it meant for her lifestyle to make those changes, and how they affected her health and well-being. Her energy is much better, she's climbing harder, her mood is better, and she has a much better relationship with food now. Honestly, Laura's eating was pretty similar to what I see most of my clients doing when we first start working together. Don't feel like you won't be able to relate with Laura because she has an aversion to food; she was forcing herself to eat, and it was the same types of things (and at the same times of day) that most people do, so these changes I suggested to her will likely apply to you, too. She is so passionate about this topic now because she feels so much better. We discussed in detail the changes she made, talked about how she fuels now for climbing days, and how all of this affected her relationship with her daughter and her daughter's relationship with food. I'm so excited for this episode to be out in the world because it just shows you how incredibly powerful small changes to your diet can be. I hope you enjoy it! Laura Schmidt Episode Details Her aversion to food How she overcame a plateau in her climbing through food She was "on paper" doing all the right things, but it wasn't working So tired she couldn't train or climb really Doctors couldn't help her Her thoughts on caffeine now and before we worked together What happened with her body image through this transformation How she has energy to have passions now How her energy increased so much A diet log analysis to help her make things even better Show Links Work with me on your nutrition Laura's Instagram: @girlmeetsjoy Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

New Gymnastics Rings Workshop with Coach Alex Stiger Do you want to know more about using the gymnastics rings as a training tool for climbing? On Tuesday, October 6th at 6-7:30pm MDT, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute workshop where you'll learn the key considerations for using gynmastics rings in your training plan. You'll Learn… How to properly use the rings How to scale workouts for different ability levels How to avoid common, potentially injurious, mistakes Coach Alex's favorite exercises Recording will be sent out at the end if you can't make it to the live event Sign up for the Rings Workshop Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of making a gym session really count, and how to stay in a positive mindset even when you're having a bad session. It's easy to get derailed in your climbing session if you do poorly on a route, can't make move, or just feel tired in general and lack motivation. We talk about things you can do to keep your motivation high and to make small wins in your sessions. She provides drills and exercises you can use to keep yourself in a growth mindset as opposed to a fixed mindset, and we talk about what those things are. Alex is about to start her next 6-week Team Training Program with 12 team members, and this is the most hands-on way to work with Alex. If you're interested in being part of her next cohort, you can sign up here. Earlybird sign-ups end Wednesday, September 15th, 2021 and there are only a handful of spots left! Episode Details What constitutes a "bad" or "good" session for both of us Common triggers for bad sessions and what to do about them How to have an adjustable plan for each session How to scale sessions or exercises to fit your psych and energy levels Don't try to salvage the shipwreck… How to take grades out of the equation at the ym Climbing and training at your appropriate challenge level Chess tournaments for her as one of the very few females at them Our recent big sends after surgery Mastery exercises to keep your sessions very focused Show Links Take Alex's class on Rings for Climbers Join Alex's next Team Program Work on your nutrition with Neely Have questions? Email [email protected] or [email protected] Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Lor Sabourin In the episode, I talk with Lor Sabourin, who is a successful climber and a mental training coach for The Warrior's Way, where they travel to teach clinics and work one-to-one with climbers of all levels. Lor is also a graduate student on their way to becoming a counselor. I met Lor a long time ago at the base of Dinosaur Rock in the Flatirons, where I was struck by their calm demeanor and friendly smile. I've followed Lor on Instagram since then and have been continually impressed by their ability to talk about difficult subjects with eloquence and humility. Lor recently became the first non-binary climber to climb a 5.14 route on traditional gear when they clipped the chains of Sedona's East Coast Fist Bump (5.14a). I wanted to talk to them about what that projecting process was like, how they improved their climbing so quickly, and what kind of response they've gotten from the climbing community about it. We also talked about some mental aspects of climbing, which is what they work on with people every day, and Lor's insights did not disappoint. They also shared about their experience of coming out as non-binary, and how that affected their relationships with friends and how it affected their climbing. For some reason I feel a kinship with Lor, and I always like talking to them. In this interview we navigated difficult topics, sometimes with less panache than I would've liked (on my part), but these are the conversations that need to happen at the moment, even if they're not easy. I VERY much appreciated Lor's willingness to be open and vulnerable in talking about personal things. Lor Sabourin Episode Details What they did to improve climbing in such a short amount of time Eating disorder from the age of 7 How their eating disorder was connected to their gender identity How they felt about being the "first non-binary person to send 5.14 on gear" How we can deal with feeling entitled in climbing and "wanting something for nothing" Dealing with "bad mental days" Building self compassion in climbing and in life Hot they navigate school, work, and climbing in terms of time management How they like van life long term How climbing is a mindfulness exercise Show Links Article on Rock & Ice about Lor Lor's Coaching Page on Warrior's Way Lor's Instagram Take Alex's class on Running for Climbers Join Alex's next Team Program Photo Credit Photo of Lor by Blake McCord @blakemccordphoto

I was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally, honestly. I'm an open book, but when it's recorded and put out to the world, it's a little nerve wracking! I hope you enjoy this interview and maybe get to know me a little better (than you even wanted to). Here's Steven's description of the interview from his site, and he has some other good show notes on the episode page if you're interested. Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely's health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa. You can learn more about Neely at trainingbeta.com Show Links This episode on The Nugget Climbing Podcast website My Nutrition Program for Climbers: Nourish Work on your nutrition with me

New Running Class with Coach Alex Stiger Do you LOVE to run but don't know how to fit it in with your climbing? In just a couple weeks, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger and Running Coach Sean Hopkins will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute class where you'll learn the key considerations for balancing training for climbing and running. You'll Learn… Which strength training exercises are great for climbing and running How we can warm up appropriately to avoid injuries How running can help you perform better as a climber Template training plans for 3 running distances (5k and under, 10k, and 10k+) Sign up below and you'll be the first to be notified when the class is ready for purchase. Get on the Wait List for the Running Class Here The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the nebulous topic of trying hard in climbing. Like, really trying hard. A couple years ago, Alex spent some time working with Coach Hazel Findlay and realized that she needed to work on her own try-hard. So she went through a transformation in her mindset that led her to not only understand the importance of trying hard, but how to make it a practiced skill for herself and for her clients. Alex Stiger is a coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder, CO and a Performance Climbing Coach for TrainingBeta. She's been on numerous episodes of the podcast and will continue to be until we run out of things to talk about in climbing. She's currently in the middle of a very successful 6-week Team Training Program with 12 students, and she'll be taking on another team in the fall. This is the most hands-on way to work with Alex, so if you're interested in being part of her next cohort, you can sign up here. Trying Hard Episode Details How to make trying hard a skill instead of a windfall Why trying hard is arguably the most important part of sending What does trying hard look like? Her year-long journey with learning how to try hard List that everyone should make to qualify their own try-hard How Alex overcomes obstacles to trying hard How my husband gets himself to try hard How to deal with fear of injury due to trying hard Show Links Take Alex's class on Running for Climbers Join Alex's next Team Program Work on your nutrition with Neely Have questions? Email [email protected] or [email protected]

Welcome to the New Nutrition Episodes I'm not sure why I haven't done this before, but I'll be publishing regular episodes on nutrition for climbers. Seeing as how I'm a nutrition professional, I should've been talking more about this topic all along! But it's never too late, so here's the first of many to come. A little about me, in case you didn't know: After completing my Bachelor's degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certificate program at Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. During those 4 years, I learned about not only nutrition, but herbs, homeopathy, and other alternative practices. I've been seeing clients since 2007 and I've worked exclusively with climbers since 2013. In this episode, I talk all about protein, which is the number one issue I see in my clients' diets. I talk about why it's important to get enough of it as climbers and how to realistically get enough of it every day, whether you're a meat eater, vegan or something in between. This is a recording taken from a 5-day nutrition challenge I did last year in front of a live audience. I talked for about 15 minutes on the topic and then took a bunch of questions from the audience (very common questions, so they're quite relevant). If you're looking for help with your own nutrition and you feel like you need personalized help, I'm taking new clients right now. I also have a program that is self-paced with 4+ hours of video from me, PDF's, and meal plans laid out for you. You can find more information about my services and the program at www.trainingbeta.com/nutrition. You're welcome to email me at [email protected] if you have any questions at all. Episode Details Why protein is so important How to get enough of it in your diet How to sneak more protein into your breakfast What to take to the crag to eat Info on protein powder and collagen Protein for autoimmunity How much protein is in different foods Show Links Work with me one-on-one or do my self-paced program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Caroline Treadway Caroline Treadway is a writer, a photographer, a film maker, and a climber. She recently released the documentary film "Light" about the eating disorder struggles of high profile rock climbers including Emily Harrington and Angie Payne. In this interview, we discuss why she made the film, what impact the film has made in her life, and then we go deeper into her own eating disorder as well as my experience with disordered eating behaviors. At the end, we even discuss what we thought about each other in times when we were both experiencing disordered eating behaviors – we've known each other for many years. This is an incredibly vulnerable conversation, and I want to thank Caroline for her willingness to be open about these topics and for her bravery for creating the film. According to one study, 16.5% of female rock climbers and 6% of male climbers experience some disordered eating behaviors. This is a big deal, and because shame is such a large component of disordered eating, this interview is a further attempt to destigmatize the topic and bring it into the "light." If you have not seen the film yet, it's amazing–I loved it–and you can watch it for free here. Interview Details Why she made the film How the film has changed her and her career How we could approach someone (or not) who we're worried about in regards to their eating Her experience with ED and how it affected her body and mental health How she ended up in the hospital How she would've wanted to be approached about her ED What we used to think of each other Show Links Caroline on Instagram @carolinelovesphotos Light the Documentary Film on Instagram @light.thedocumentaryfilm Watch the documentary film "Light" Learn more about eating disorders and get help: www.nationaleatingdisorders.org Get nutrition help from me to feel less stressed about your diet and body image

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them. That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too. If you'd like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can subscribe for as little as $5/month and get at least 75 minutes of extra stuff EVERY MONTH. You'll get a Nutrition Bite, which is a short episode every month from me all about a specific nutrition topic, as well as a Team Roundtable, where Matt, Alex, and I will discuss a specific training/nutrition topic or do a Q&A like this one. There are also old episodes in the vault that I've never published, and I'll be publishing those on Patreon soon. CHECK OUT THE PATREON EPISODES Team Q&A: Training and Nutrition In this sneak preview, we answered the following questions: When to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing When to transition from toproping to lead climbing General nutrition advice for a climber who doesn't want to log their calories/macros Training adaptations for very short climbers and very tall climbers The questions we covered in the full episode on Patreon are: Antagonist muscle training and how to work it into your program What a typical performance block looks like in terms of maintenance training and time spent trying to send Performance phase nutrition (for when you're trying to send stuff) How to avoid takeout food with a very busy schedule

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he's been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There's also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases. Learn More about the Bouldering Program Here 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase In the episode, Coach Matt and I discuss our top 8 tips for having a successful performance phase, whether that's a climbing trip, a good weather season at your home crag, or a period of time in the gym when you're just trying to send hard stuff. These tips are a mixture of advice for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers, so everyone should get something out of it. At the end of this episode I included a preview of a recent Q&A episode that Matt, Alex, and I did over on Patreon. If you'd like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and Team Talks with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content. Episode Details What is a performance phase? Matt's 3 tips HAVE a performance phase Be ready to put the work in Do prep work away from the crag to maximize your climbing days My 5 tips (it was supposed to be 3, but I couldn't help myself) Prioritize rest on a macro and micro level Fuel properly on climbing and rest days Balance mental health with sending Plan your goals, trips, and partners way in advance Redpointing tactics Show Links Nourish: A Self-Paced Nutrition Program for Climbers Bouldering Program (Levels 1-3) to help you maintain strength during a performance phase Get more episodes every month on Patreon Have topics you want us to cover? Email [email protected] or [email protected] Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Photo Credit Photo of Dru Mack by Matt Pincus @mpincus87

Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She's been training and coaching individuals and teams for over 7 years. I (Neely Quinn) am your host (more about that in a sec) and I'm a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutritional Therapist who's been working exclusively with climbers since 2014. In the last couple episodes, Alex has been subbing in for me as host, and while she's a fantastic podcast host, I need her to focus on coaching and creating awesome programs for you, so I'm going to slip back in as your trusty host from now on. Having her take over for a while gave me some much-needed time to figure out what direction the podcast is going. I did a ton of thinking, researching, and soul searching, and I'm back and I'm psyched! You'll be seeing more episodes every month now that I'm re-stoked. I'll explain more in the episode. If you're interested in supporting my efforts with the podcast and you'd like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and group Q&A sessions with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content. Q&A Details How to work hangboarding in with a climbing session What the deal is with intermittent fasting and climbing/training An example meal for a rest day On-the-wall exercises to increase finger strength Maintaining fitness during a vacation How to train lockoffs Show Links Join Alex's new Team Program! Have questions? Email [email protected] or [email protected]

In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles. She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of the common hurdles that women face during the "season" of pregnancy. Joy Black, B.A., NASM CPT is a Certified Personal Trainer and Pregnancy and Postnatal Exercise Specialist/Athleticism Coach. She is also an avid climber as well as runner and importantly to this conversation, a mother of two! Joy Black Interview Details Important things to know as pregnant athlete Strengthening the deep core, diaphragm, and pelvic floor to support your body during pregnancy General overview on what to expect during each of the trimesters Importance of staying empowered and focusing on what you can be doing – which is a lot Considerations while climbing to help minimize additional pressure on an already strained system What is diastasis and how new research is helping women get back to strengthening the core sooner Mindset considerations and potential hurdles plus insight on how to stay focused on your own journey Pelvic Floor PT's and why you should have one as part of your team How our bodies are incredibly resilient and how pregnancy does not mean your athletic career and goals will be limited Joy Black Links Instagram @calliejoyblack Email: [email protected] Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research. By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best. He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family. You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad. His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn't have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions. While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries Tyler Nelson Interview Details How our hand size can determine what we should or shouldn't do on a hangboard How knowing our rate of recovery can save us tons of time Results he's seeing with clients General advice on what to do if you have a sore finger When to do this during training/performance cycles General hangboarding questions answered What forms of training he would love to see go extinct The importance of appropriate training load Explanations on exciting new research regarding connective tissue Tyler Nelson Links Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

Females in Climbing In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She's sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she's completed Stacy Sims' Women Are Not Small Men course. In this episode we talk all about the specific needs of females in training for climbing. We cover topics like what to expect during certain weeks of your cycle, how to train during each of them, and why Alex (and so many females) was in denial about women needing to train differently than men for so long. FREE Women's Train Smarter Challenge Starts Next Week On Monday, May 3rd, 2021 through Friday the 7th, Alex will be hosting a challenge for females that will help you learn how to train for your body's specific needs. It's completely free, and even if you can't make the live calls we'll send the recordings out to you. Schedule of Events Day 1: Tracking your period + How to plan your week Day 2: Myths about Women's Strengths and Weaknesses + Workout Day 3: Female mindset – how hormones affect our performance mindset + tools to still perform our best Day 4: How (and when) Women Should Strength Train + Workout Day 5: How to use goals to create a map for success To learn more about the event and to sign up absolutely FREE, click the button below. LEARN ABOUT THE CHALLENGE FOR WOMEN Alex Stiger Interview Details Why we can't train like small men How changes in our hormones throughout the month can guide our training Being in denial about being a woman in sport How we can do better as women and as coaches How everything she knew about her menstrual cycle was in hindsight before Myths she's held as a woman Fear and pain sensitivity the week before period Alex Stiger Interview Links Join the Challenge for Free Instagram: @alex.stiger

About Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it's going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also talk about how she's learned to effectively do both at the same time. She's had some great success with her clients, many of whom don't have much time for training, so she lets us in on some tips for how to train when you're super busy with other stuff. This one is full of little nuggets of wisdom that you can apply to your life right now, and Lauren's excitement and passion for climbing is infectious. I really enjoyed talking with her. If you want to learn more from Lauren… She's offering $100 off her new Crush It: Sport Climbing training program right now. Or you can check out her other services on her site. Lauren Abernathy Interview Details Going from corporate world to full-time climbing coach How to ski and train for climbing at the same time Minimalist finger strength training success stories Tips for busy climbers on how to fit training into schedule The biggest lessons she's learned through coaching people Lauren Abernathy Links www.goodsprayclimbing.com Instagram: @goodspraycoaching Her new sport climbing training program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing. They have a 4-day retreat coming up in April in Veyo, Utah that will help climbers with the following topics: Befriending Fear Performance Climbing Rock-Life Balance Art of Attention Successful Climbing Goals Yoga for Climbers They're offering 10% off for TrainingBeta listeners using the code "trainingbeta10" and you can find more about the event in the link below: LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CLIMBWELL RETREAT I wanted to ask them about the basics of what they'll be teaching at the retreat, so I asked all 3 of them to be on the show. All of these topics are so relevant to all of us, but we focused a lot on finding balance in your life while also being passionate about climbing. Please visit their website to find out more about what they teach and about the retreat at www.climbwell.co. ClimbWell Interview Details What people will get out of the retreat Finding balance in your life while being passionate about climbing Dealing with fear in climbing Wheel of Life Coaching Tool Climbing as an addiction – how to find balance How are values can guide our actions appropriately Visualization practice How to find happiness How to stop being so black and white about climbing and life in general ClimbWell Links ClimbWell Retreat (Use "trainingbeta10" for 10% off): www.climbwell.co/retreat Climbwell Website: www.climbwell.co Gaby's personal website: www.gabycolletta.com Remy's personal website: www.remyfranklin.com Blake's personal website: www.startyourpivot.com Instagram: @climbwell.co Remy's 1st interview on TrainingBeta Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… Personal Coaching Online For Boulderers of All Abilities For Route Climbers of All Abilities Finger Strength All of our Training Programs Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Transcript Coming soon…

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he's an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017. In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity. CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM Matt Pincus Interview Details Our new training program and why we changed it Getting away from training according to grades and more according to training experience Some examples of successful programs with his clients How to structure an effective bouldering training program How to level up your training over time Why to train strength, power, skills, and power capacity all at once How to train while trying to perform well outside Matt Pincus Interview Links New Bouldering Program Train with Matt: www.trainingbeta.com/matt Matt's Instagram: @mpincus87 Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Bouldering Training Program Finger Training Programs (code: "home" for 25% off) Injury Protocols All of our training programs Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we've been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we've had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we'd discuss how we've dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we've learned along the way. It can be difficult to stay motivated and take care of yourself when all you really want to be doing is climbing. It can feel sort of like punishment sometimes, but the main things to remember are that you'll get through it and you can (usually) become just as strong or stronger than you were pre-injury. In the meantime, we'll tell you how we have learned to honestly enjoy being injured sometimes. Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. If you'd like to work with her doing remote coaching, you can find more info on that at www.trainingbeta.com/alex. Alex Stiger Interview Details Brief overview of our injuries What our recovery times are/were What we've been doing to stay psyched and happy despite injury Why it's important to still be around climbing if it's part of your social life Strengthening other weaknesses while your injury heals The frustrations of the medical industry Why we wish we would've sought help earlier Alex Stiger Interview Links Work with Alex as your coach Instagram: @alex.stiger 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast 2nd Interview with Alex: How Getting Stronger Made Her a Better Coach

About Eric Hörst In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He's a climber in his 50's who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he's catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 sons are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14's by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named www.trainingforclimbing.com. He also runs the company Physivantage, which sells supplements for athletes. My New Puppy I said I would put a photo up of our new puppy (we don't have her yet) and here she is! She's a heeler/border collie mix, just like our other dog. We get her in three weeks and we are SO EXCITED! Eric Hörst Interview Details How to support recovery How to train when you're over the age of 35 Physiological changes that happen as you age How to slow the aging process How to know if you're training too much Why you shouldn't be sore every day The importance of sleep Bloodwork to consider Why your ability to recover declines Eric Hörst Links www.trainingforclimbing.com www.physivantage.com Instagram: @training4climbing and @physivantage Rock Climbing Training Programs Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we're training strength or strength endurance on the hangboard by hanging with bodyweight, a pulley system, or weight attached to our bodies. However, Tyler talks about how we can just pull on the hangboard, without our feet leaving the ground, and increase our reps in order to train for long, endurance climbs. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called To Pull or Hang, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven't read it yet, and you're interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family. You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel's first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I've done 4 more seminars and 7 other podcast episodes with him. You could say he's a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries Tyler Nelson Interview Details How to change finger training to focus on endurance Concentric pulling rather than hanging Results he's seeing with clients Whether this method creates more injury When to do this during training/performance cycles Nerdy parts of the research on this Why people shake when they're trying hard Finger curls vs finger rolls Protocol for intermediate climber Tyler Nelson Links Article by Tyler about training fingers for endurance Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, her main focus is on the psychology in climbing. She has been climbing, learning and exploring for as long as she can remember. Throughout the past decade, she travelled the world representing Austria at youth climbing competitions and later on in the one or other Bouldering World Cup. Nowadays you can still find her climbing in the gym or outdoors as often as possible. She has done lead climbs and boulders in the 8th grade outside (Font & French grades). Fear of Falling Masterclass Discount Madeleine recently published a Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers, which you can purchase at any time to work through your fears of falling. Madeleine is also giving TrainingBeta listeners $60 off with code #TRAININGBETA. I asked her to be on the podcast because sometimes the fear of falling keeps us from reaching our potential as climbers; it's so important to work through it if it's holding you back. So in this interview we discussed the different reasons that climbers are afraid of falling and, using the tenets of her masterclass, how we can overcome those fears. CHECK OUT THE MASTERCLASS Madeleine Crane Interview Details How sport psychology helped her as a competition climber Reasons people are afraid to fall Overview of masterclass Understanding your fear Is your fear rational? Steps she takes to feel comfortable lead climbing Becoming aware of your fear responses Trusting your climbing partner What you can do every day to help fear while climbing Breathing, mantras, and meditations My own strategies for dealing with fear Madeleine Crane Links www.climbingpsychology.com Fear of Fallinf Masterclass: www.climbingpsychology.com use code #TRAININGBETA for $60 off Instagram: @climbingpsychology Work with Madeleine Rock Climbing Training Programs Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She's been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at RealNutritionLLC.com where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her son got into climbing, she followed suit. The reason I wanted to speak with Marisa is that she has a lot of knowledge about Intuitive Eating, which is a popular topic right now. She gives us an explanation of exactly what it is and how it can be used to improve our health and our relationship with food. Marisa Michael Interview Details 10 Principles of Intuitive Eating Who it's helpful for Who it may not work for Intuitive Eating and Caffeine Usage Eating Disorders and Intuitive Eating "Health at Every Size" Discussion Weight Loss Goals and Intuitive Eating Marisa Michael Links Website: realnutritionllc.com Instagram: @realnutritiondietitian Marisa's new book: Nutrition for Climbers: Fuel for the Send BOOKS ON INTUITIVE EATING Intuitive Eating by Evelyn Tribole Health at Every Size by Linda Bacon Anti-Diet by Christy Harrison Rock Climbing Training Programs Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I've watched her improve her climbing exponentially over the last 5 years through efficient and specific training. I wanted to have her on the show again to talk about how her coaching has evolved as she has, and how she's come back strong after difficult injuries. You'll be hearing more from Alex on TrainingBeta soon, so stay tuned for that. Alex Stiger Interview Details Difference between her coaching as a 5.13a climber and now as a 5.13d climber Overcoming big shoulder injury to come back strong How she improved her climbing so much More assessments, fewer assumptions in training How more rest helped her climb harder Why she changed her core workouts Training program coming up on TrainingBeta for women What she focuses on with older climber clients Alex Stiger Interview Links Instagram: @alex.stiger Article by Alex: 3 Ways to Develop Your Strongest Core 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs Photo Credit Photo of Alex on Homunculous 5.14a in Rifle by Jill Stompel @shmitpiex Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Transcript Coming soon…

About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you'll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat: Why Well-Raised Meat Is Good for You and Good for the Planet. She also produced a film, Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat and you can sign up to watch the world premier starting November 22, 2020 here. I watched the film and it's fantastic. It's all about how we've been raising meat all wrong since the industrial revolution, and how our mismanaged farm and ranch lands are destroying the environment. When animals are raised properly, their biproducts and behaviors actually sequester carbon, help plants grow deeper roots to maintain foliage, and make our soil much more nutritious and viable. It's the cycle of life, and it's been this way since there have been plants and animals. I asked Diana to be on my show because nutrition is low hanging fruit for climbers, and when I ask my clients to eat more protein, they feel better and climb better. Meat in all its forms is the most nutrient dense and efficient form of protein we can eat, but a lot of climbers have eschewed meat for the sake of the environment and their health. But I–rather, Diana–is here to tell you that meat, when raised properly and humanely, can be supremely helpful to the environment and very beneficial to your health, much to the contrary of what you've been told recently. In fact, plant-based diets can actually be quite detrimental to both the environment and your health. There's a lot to learn here. Please give this one a listen. I guarantee you'll learn something, whether you're a plant-based or carnivore eater, or anything in between. I really appreciate you listening. Diana Rodgers Interview Details Why meat is not actually bad for us Why plant-based diets are not good for disease Why plant-based diets are not good for the environment Why protein recommendations are way too low What's wrong with studies done on meat What it's so important for children to have animal products Saturated Fat and Cholesterol 101 Her thoughts on the movie Game Changers Diana Rodgers Interview Links Instagram: @sustainabledish Sacred Cow book Sacred Cow film Where I get my sustainable, humanely-raised meat: Wild Pastures Where you can get local sustainable, humanely-raised meat: eatwild.com More info on meat, cholesterol, saturated fat, etc ChrisKresser.com Chris Masterjohn PhD Denise Minger and the China Study Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs

About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film "Up to Speed." John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open Speed National Champion 2. National speed climbing record holder 3. 2018 Pan-Amercian Speed Champion 4. 2019 U.S. Overall Team Member 5. Sending The Vice, 8B/V13 in Rocklands, South Africa Pretty impressive, right? That's why I asked him to be on the show to talk about how he trains for speed climbing. He clearly takes his sport very seriously and he personally piqued my interest in speed climbing, so I was honored that he agreed to this interview. NOTE: This interview was recorded on March 19, 2020 in the beginning of the COVID lockdowns, so some logistics we talk about may not line up with what's happening right now. The training information is still as relevant as ever, though. John Brosler Interview Details Speed Climbing 101: A primer on the sport Exacly how he trains day by day for speed climbing How his diet affects his training and performance Whether or not he climbs outside Why it sometimes comes down to luck who wins His thoughts on the Olympic and World Cup format John Brosler Interview Links Instagram: @johnbrosler Rent or buy the Reel Rock film "Up to Speed" Article on GymClimber.com by John called "Speed Climbing 101" Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Interview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he's a climber who's incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It's super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so I hope it helps you out. More Details Why healthy hips are important for climbing What the most common hip injuries are How shoulder pain and hip pain can be related How to tell if hip pain is originating from back Specific stretches for high-stepping What to do about hip injuries Other Interviews with Dr. Vagy Interview #1: We talked in general about how to heal injuries, but since that time he has gotten way more specific about the steps we need to take to address them. Interview #2: He talked about how to heal shoulder impingement. Interview #3: We talked about rotator cuff injuries and neck strain. Interview #4: We discussed finger pulley sprains. Interview #5: We discussed elbow injuries. Jared Vagy Professional Credentials Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. Supporting Videos from Episode Hip Mobility Part 1 Hip Mobility Part 2 Rock Rehab Protocol Links Dr. Vagy has created 6 injury protocols using his Rock Rehab Pyramid method that are available on TrainingBeta. You can find out more about his methods by clicking on any of the links below. You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we've made available for $15 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab. Inside Elbow Pain Outside Elbow Pain Finger Pulley Sprain Shoulder Impingement Rotator Cuff Strain Neck Strain Dr. Jared Vagy Links Jared's book, Climb Injury Free Website: www.theclimbingdoctor.com Instagram: @theclimbingdoctor Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Transcript Coming soon…

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we're training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbing we need to have sustained power output over long periods of time. So he describes how to gain more true power endurance using specific techniques. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called High Volume Power Training for Climbers, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven't read it yet, and you're interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family. You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel's first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I've done 4 more seminars and 6 other podcast episodes with him: TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Tyler Nelson Interview Details What high volume power training is good for How it can improve your overall power and power endurance Why it's better for sport climbers than boulderers Why it's important to stop training when you lose power How this kind of training has helped his athletes What to know about high volume power training and how to use it Why campus boards need to have a way to take weight off Tyler Nelson Links Article by Tyler about high volume power training Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Transcript Coming soon.

About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we'll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don't "struggle" with energy levels, it's quite possible that your energy could be even more on-point than it is now, and that can be low hanging fruit in terms of your climbing performance. I'm running a Nutrition for Climbers Program from August 28th through September 25th, all about how to improve your energy levels, lean out, and fuel for performance and recovery, as well as how to deal with some of the emotional eating issues I've talked about on this podcast. You can enroll until this Thursday, August 27th, here. Conversation Details The topics we covered in regards to increasing your energy levels: Carb intake Protein intake Meal timing Crag days Caffeine intake Sleep Water consumption Links My new Nutrition for Climbers program (enrollment ends 8/27/20) Do one-on-one nutrition consulting with me Alyssa Neill Instagram: @nourishment_nutrition Website: www.nourishmentnutrition.com

About Chelsea Murn Chelsea Murn is a Certified Health Coach and a climbing coach at LadyBetaCoaching.com who specializes in females' training and health needs. She's also a business coach for females in the climbing community, and in this interview we talk about all of that. Chelsea has caught my eye recently with her blogging at LadyBeta, and because she's one of the only people talking about women's specific training needs. We talked about women's specific needs in climbing training and performance as well as our specific diet needs. We talk about what we should be training in the different phases of women's cycles and how hormones affect our physical and emotional states. And we discuss how we can work with our cycles instead of just being annoyed that we have to deal with our periods every month. We also talk about her business coaching and her climbing coaching services, and how she might be able to help you. Chelsea is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about her climbing and her coaching, and it shows in this interview. I really enjoyed my talk with her and I hope you do too. Chelsea Murn Interview Details Women's specific needs with training fr climbing What estrogen and progesterone do to our bodies How to accommodate our cycle with our training The times of the month when we're most likely to perform well What we should be eating to support our bodies (different than males) How to track your cycle How her business and climbing coaching took off and has become a real career Chelsea Murn Interview Links Programs by Chelsea at LadyBeta.com Instagram: @ladybeta.coaching Blog post about women's cycles and performance Books mentioned Beyond the Pill Period Repair Manual In the Flo

I talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community.

About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own experiences with it all and provide tips on how to balance your diet to get all the nutrients you need while maintaining your optimal, healthy body composition. We talk about common behaviors we see in our clients that sabotage their performance and health goals, and how to improve those behaviors. And we provide mental/emotional tools to help deal with negative body image/body dysmorphia. This discussion was a very vulnerable one for me, and I discuss some personal things I've never talked about on the podcast before. Our hope with this episode was multifaceted: 1) we want to bring body image issues more into the open, 2) we want people to learn how to eat in order to avoid common emotional eating pitfalls, and 3) we want people to start re-thinking the "optimal body type" for climbers, and realize that extreme leanness is not the end all be all of climbing hard. It's also incredibly important to be healthy and happy. Lastly, if you believe you have an eating disorder or are suffering with disordered eating behaviors, we encourage you to seek help. Whether that's from a therapist, a nutritionist, a doctor, or all three, there are many resources out there for you. I did an interview with Kate Bennett, who is a therapist who specializes in eating disorders among athletes and she sees clients remotely. Alyssa is also currently taking clients remotely. Interview Details Our personal stories Common behaviors we see in clients Common signs and symptoms of disordered eating Mental/emotional tools that have helped me How limiting beliefs about your weight can affect climbing performance Our thoughts on "Intuitive Eating" How a balanced eating routine can help with emotional eating Dilemma of professional climbers How your hormones are affected by disordered eating About Me (Neely Quinn, ICNT) A little about me that you might not know… After completing my Bachelor's degree in both Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I completed a 4-year holistic nutrition program called Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. During my education, I learned about not only nutrition, but Western and Chinese herbs, homeopathy, the psychology of eating, and other alternative practices. I started practicing nutrition with private clients in 2007, and I've been working exclusively with climbers since 2015 to help them optimize their energy levels, body composition, climbing performance, and overall well-being. I was heavily involved in the Paleo nutrition community for a few years, and I was recruited to write The Complete Idiot's Guide to Eating Paleo, which was published in 2012. I've led nutrition seminars online, taught at Bauman College (a certificate program for nutrition), and taught several community classes in person. I've been a panelist at several conferences and festivals, including the International Climbers' Festival in 2017-2019, and PaleoFX. I'm also an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminars with Steve Bechtel et al, and I travel around the country with them to teach people about nutrition for climbers. Outside of my nutrition life, I'm the owner of TrainingBeta.com and the host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. I live in Longmont, Colorado with my husband and co-founder of TrainingBeta, Seth, and our dog, Zala. I've been sport climbing for 20+ years and I've worked with my diet extensively to figure out proper fueling and recovery for optimal climbing performance–a lifelong pursuit. For more info about who I am as a climber and a person, check out my personal bio. About Alyssa Neill, RDN From Alyssa's website… In addition to her Didactic Program & Nutrition Science degree from the University of Rhode Island, Alyssa completed her 1300 hour Dietetic Internship at the nation's leading school for natural medicine and whole-food nutrition, Bastyr University, in Washington. She has over seven years of personal and professional experience with holistic nutrition, weight loss, fat loss, women's health, hormone balance with diet, diet and lifestyle modifications, and supplement support. In addition to NourishMEnt Nutrition, she has worked as a Practitioner at Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy, in the supplement industry, as a Private Chef, in hospitals, in Naturopathic clinics and as a Detoxification / Biotransformation researcher at High Tech Health International, Inc. She also hosts and teaches at Womxn's Retreats, Womxn's Circles & gatherings. She loves cooking and creating, and so she occasionally private chefs for retreats. She leads rituals, guided medi

I talk with Matt Pincus about how to return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustrations about being weak to reassessing goals.

In this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.

I had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond.

In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.

I talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do.

Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.

I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.

I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.

Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.

Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength.

Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.

Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.

I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.

Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.