The Nugget Climbing Podcast

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNed’s Original Episode:EP 113: Ned Feehally

Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameronNuggets:0:06:31 – What they climbed on today0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 20200:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO?0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world?0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing?0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman)1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season?1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives?1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers)1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up?1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V182:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career2:17:33 – Flow state2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing

Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varianNuggets:0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions0:10:36 – Dan’s resume0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan’s, and what he is working on with his finger training1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor1:30:24 – Dan’s recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county1:46:35 – Dan’s top finger training exercise recommendation1:48:11 – Dan’s thoughts on wrist training1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete2:03:34 – Dan’s training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)2:15:02 – Dan’s final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers2:16:49 – Dan’s goals for me with my finger training

Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power.Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alice-haferNuggets:0:05:35 – Perfectionism in writing and interviewing0:09:30 – What Alice learned from her friend Brad Gobright0:13:05 – Using second-tier routes to stretch our comfort zone0:14:07 – “Fear is a signal that you are becoming a better climber.”0:16:45 – Getting covid twice in three weeks0:18:03 – Setting boundaries for ourselves, and reaching our higher selves0:20:27 – What expectations are0:21:05 – Patron question from Ryan: Can you share a favorite story about Brad Gobright?0:26:51 – Alice’s climbing journey, getting sick after her trip to Madagascar, her dad’s stroke, and carrying emotional weight0:34:23 – How her relationship with climbing has evolved, and seeing Brad’s passion for climbing0:37:00 – Pro climbers aren’t always sending, and passion and motivation0:39:42 – How Jonathan Siegrist stays psyched, thinking smaller within our constraints, and pivoting0:45:34 – Living in the UK, and being most comfortable with what you spend the most time doing0:49:33 – “Who am I outside of climbing?”0:52:31 – Finding a new identity, and Alice’s experience with depression0:58:35 – Detaching your identity from whatever you are dealing with, and changing your thought and behavior patterns1:02:42 – Examining the three biggest beliefs you have about yourself, and valuing the climbing experience1:05:18 – Neuroplasticity, and rewriting our self-beliefs1:12:12 – Focusing on process over outcome1:15:55 – Climbing matters1:18:15 – Exposing yourself to new ideas, and saying “stop” to negative thoughts1:22:07 – “I have plenty of time.”1:23:55 – Setting clear and small goals, letting go of perfectionism, and giving ourselves permission to fail1:36:06 – Awareness, pausing, and intervening1:41:18 – Struggling with belonging, finding supportive friends, and putting your best effort forward1:46:03 – The pressure that comes with success, and focusing on becoming a better athlete1:54:47 – The value in trying hard projects1:57:42 – How Alice uses goals to give her focus1:59:10 – What Alice learned from trying Weekend at Bernies (5.14a or b)2:01:35 – Jonathan Siegrist’s 50:50 split, and why balancing projecting with sending easier routes is important for motivation2:05:19 – How Alice is training her weaknesses for Weekend at Bernies2:08:55 – Using box jumps to train power for climbing, and catching holds with a firm body2:13:01 – Thoughts on campusing vs. fast pull-ups for power2:15:35 – How little volume it takes to get stronger, and my story with pistol squats2:16:27 – Mental training for fast results, and how Alice sent her second 5.14 by focusing on effort2:20:23 – “You quit when you stop learning.”2:21:40 – Patron question from Fiona: Can we train our mental game? How do we measure progress?2:25:39 – Everyone needs something different when it comes to mental training2:26:41 – How to measure mental training progress2:29:00 – Where to connect with Alice2:30:43 – Alice’s final advice for listeners2:36:34 – Feeling like a superhero, and the story of sending her second 5.14

Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag. We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success.Climbers Crag:climberscrag.comCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Shortform!shortform.com/nuggetUse this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-van-boxtelNuggets:0:06:57 – Organizing the important stuff, and putting systems in place0:11:11 – Overview of our conversation0:13:30 – Soccer, discovering climbing, and losing 20-30 lbs to become a route setter0:17:14 – Sam’s ability to focus on his goals, and why he got into business0:20:03 – Moving up the chain with route setting0:22:20 – How Sam got into social media, and getting 1000+ followers in less than a month0:24:11 – The business side of being a content creator0:26:57 – Pivoting from route setting to starting Climbers Crag, and how Sam teamed up with Tom Randall0:37:03 – What Climbers Crag is today0:40:41 – The organic next step0:41:58 – Summary of everything so far, and Climbers Crag’s two main services as an agency0:45:47 – The Climber’s Crag team, and why Sam reduced the size of his team0:46:58 – Who this is worthwhile for, and having a strong “why”0:53:13 – The two categories of individuals trying to grow their Instagram following, and having a clear funnel0:59:17 – Why I decided to make the Nugget for a year before trying to monetize, and making sure you love 80-90% of what you’re doing1:01:45 – “Goodwill compounds faster than revenue.”1:02:19 – Virality and customer surplus1:06:13 – The sustainability/longevity of the different social media platforms, supply and demand, why reels go viral, and why Instagram is king1:12:41 – Why Sam pressed pause on TikTok for Climbers Crag1:18:25 – Real numbers for Instagram growth goals, and where Sam thinks brands should be with Instagram before adding another platform1:20:22 – Another summary, and using Instagram as a jumping-off point1:23:05 – Crux Academy, and why Sam tries to talk most of his clients out of trying to grow on YouTube1:24:54 – My current strategy for The Nugget’s Instagram, balancing viral, brand, and value posts, and having a CTA (call to action) strategy1:32:17 – Sam’s recommendations for me to grow to 100k followers, and the two factors for growth1:45:11 – Best practices for resharing content from an ethical standpoint1:50:08 – Best time of day to post1:52:15 – Hashtags, optimizing content for growth on Instagram, and removing exit points1:59:48 – Watchtime and engagement2:02:08 – Using Capcut for Reels2:05:09 – Playing the game, and the difference between quality and success on a social media platform2:12:13 – Hiding the vegetables2:13:30 – Wrap up and how to connect with Sam

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJonathan’s Other Episodes:EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020)EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020)Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020)

Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-greshamNuggets:0:05:45 – The Mythical Challenge0:18:15 – “Flitting” between different styles of climbing to keep motivation high0:20:25 – Improving two sport grades and one trad grade between the ages of 45 and 50, and what it would take to climb 9a (14d)0:24:49 – Feeling satisfied after climbing Lexicon (E11)0:27:33 – Olympians, and being a series of sliders0:30:08 – Lexicon breakdown, and Steve McClure’s 80-foot whipper0:39:10 – Why is bold trad climbing so glorified in the UK? And the “rules” for trad areas vs. bolted areas0:46:02 – Patron question from Elina, why Neil used ballet to train for Lexicon, and looking outside the box for ways to improve0:50:45 – Struggling to improve at climbing, and how that led to coaching0:58:52 – “People don’t realize how hard they can climb.”1:01:47 – Goal setting and finishing game1:06:33 – Getting more specific with your goals, and being willing to learn from each project1:12:19 – The tactical and psychological skills in redpointing, and how many of the top climbers just go climbing1:14:59 – Don’t expect your project to feel easy1:16:31 – Unlocking things on your project when you’re feeling weak1:21:24 – “Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mindset.” - Dave MacLeod1:22:57 – Patron question from Doug: What old-school training methods get overlooked nowadays? What modern training methods got overlooked back then?1:25:15 – Injury prevention, and extensor training for stronger fingers1:30:23 – Rings and TRX training1:32:42 – Neil’s go-to exercises on the rings/TRX, and feeling like an athlete after discovering rings training1:34:29 – How to combine extensor training with your other training and climbing, and Adam Ondra’s rule for antagonist training1:36:57 – Neil’s strength protocol for finger extensor training1:39:23 – How to incorporate rings or TRX training into your climbing and training, and finding the appropriate amount1:44:41 – Patron question from Jan: What should climbers who started at a later age (30s) focus on to improve, and would that be different from someone who started in their 20s?1:46:59 – Should beginners use hangboards?1:49:31 – How Neil and I both developed a weakness in the half crimp grip by avoiding the hangboard early on1:52:56 – “Stick the training in the bank.”1:56:58 – The way to make killer gains in your hangboarding: stop climbing! (And which types of climbers benefit from hangboarding)2:01:49 – Dan Varian from Beastmaker, and other people who have influenced Neil’s climbing and training2:02:59 – How to combine hangboarding with climbing to make gains over the long term2:06:51 – How Neil addressed his weakness in the half crimp, and his thoughts on full crimping on the hangboard2:11:08 – Thumb crimping2:14:37 – Pinkie wrapping three-finger crimps, and how everything we do should be built up incrementally2:16:34 – Why Neil’s climbing shot up between ages 45 and 502:23:33 – Neil’s golden rule in coaching, and taking breaks from structured training2:27:33 – Finding balance2:30:58 – A teaser for the keto diet conversation (let us know if you want to hear us talk about that!)2:31:39 – Where to connect with Neil

Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery.Climb Smarter:Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)Buy from Sequoia Books (best if you are in the UK or Europe)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Shortform!shortform.com/nuggetUse this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/rebecca-williamsNuggets:0:07:32 – Kids0:09:29 – Rebecca’s background in clinical psychology0:13:04 – Why Rebecca quit gymnastics as a teenager0:17:55 – How the mental blocks from gymnastics came back to haunt her as a climber0:20:17 – The deeper fears at the roots of fear of falling, and trust and control0:24:30 – Why it’s important to know where your fear of falling comes from, and the woman with the worm phobia0:28:32 – Diving deeper into different fears0:30:54 – Fear of fear, and learning to tolerate difficult feelings0:33:14 – Learning to tolerate difficult emotions0:37:09 – My (Steven’s) own experience with fear of falling when I started sport climbing, and tools for letting go of control0:44:16 – The overdeveloped drive and threat systems, and the underdeveloped self-soothing system0:46:32 – “We’re always conquering”, common narratives, and why fear of falling is rational0:53:16 – Rebecca’s mental warmup, and bringing arousal levels down0:58:30 – Not wanting to stray from “normal”1:03:04 – Introducing doubts to our assumptions1:08:38 – Breathing exercises to bring down arousal and anxiety1:14:31 – Pre-climb routines, focusing before a send attempt, and mindfulness as an attitude1:19:16 – Meditation and why it’s useful1:24:31 – What practicing mindfulness has done for me (Steven) and how it has impacted my life1:28:14 – “Falling practice is the last thing you do, and not the first thing you do.”1:30:01 – Does practicing non-attachment take away our drive? And shifting our focus from achievement to mastery1:33:00 – Why Rebecca decided to write her book Smart Climbing1:37:05 – The nutrition chapter of the book, and the link between perfectionism and eating disorders1:43:45 – What Rebecca is currently working on in her own climbing (related to mental game)1:48:07 – Who the book is for, and where to buy it1:49:25 – What’s next for Rebecca1:50:34 – Rediscovering your early excitement for climbing

Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, the role of chemistry in dating, how to deal with rejection, progressing from 11b to 12c in a year in his 40s, and biggest takeaways from interviewing top climbers on his podcast.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Feals!feals.com/NUGGETUse this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ryan-devlinNuggets:0:07:15 – My Parent’s Basement Productions0:09:35 – Junk food0:12:20 – Returning to the Midwest0:17:59 – How far Midwesterners commute to climb at the Red River Gorge0:20:36 – The TV show ‘Are You the One?’, and why you might recognize Ryan in the grocery store0:30:08 – A question from Allison Vest, and the role of chemistry in dating0:37:20 – Similarities between the climbing world and the TV/acting world, and creating your own luck0:43:20 – How Ryan deals with rejection, and building happiness that is not based on outcomes0:49:19 – Being afraid of falling, Ryan’s first-ever trad lead, and how climbing has impacted his acting (and his life)0:56:05 – How Ryan got into climbing, and his first day climbing at Tahquitz1:07:25 – Getting into sport climbing and training in his 40s, and progressing from 11b to 12c in a year1:16:50 – Early lightbulb moments in Ryan’s training journey1:23:11 – Getting more days in at the crag1:29:44 – Why Ryan decided to create The Struggle Climbing Show1:38:00 – How the pros relate to struggle, and what the rest of us can learn from that1:48:39 – Drinking from a firehose of information, and letting go of finding “the best way” to train1:55:21 – Mental game, fear, gratitude, and Alex Honnold and Hazel Findlay’s mental approaches2:00:01 – Hollywood love scenes, and being starstruck by Lynn Hill and Harrison Ford2:07:53 – Podcasting and community2:10:17 – Starting a Forest School, and looking at the world through kids' eyes2:14:56 – Camping, van windows, and blackout curtains2:18:33 – Vanlife, and climbing with Jordan Cannon and Alex Honnold2:30:24 – The climbing experience scales2:31:29 – Ryan’s hopes and dreams as a rock climber2:37:50 – Ryan’s plans for Season 2 of The Struggle Climbing Show2:44:30 – Wrap up

Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box.The Climbing Bible:Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK or Europe)Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-and-martinNuggets:0:07:56 – Where we’re all tuning in from0:09:29 – Stian and Martin introduce each other0:17:14 – What Stain and Martin admire about one another0:22:43 – Stian’s proudest climbing accomplishments0:26:29 – Stian’s process of projecting his hardest route (FA of a new 9a)0:31:04 – A day in Martin’s life0:33:16 – The pros and cons of being a route setter, and trying to balance route setting with climbing0:38:24 – Martin’s proudest climbing accomplishments0:43:31 – Writing The Climbing Bible, and how the book got its name0:46:40 – Why The Climbing Bible was published as two different books, and how they interact with one another0:48:58 – Who the books are for0:52:06 – Question from Rannveig: When coaching, how do you balance the physical, technical, and mental sides of the sport?0:55:29 – The shortcomings of modern gyms, and the value of making up your own boulders1:02:09 – Stian’s thoughts on what holds climbers back from breaking into 5.11 or 5.121:04:28 – The importance of different physical characteristics for climbing performance, and finger strength vs. general strength1:12:22 – The 9c test, and the benefits and limitations of physical assessments1:20:00 – Mental strengths that separate climbers with the same physical and technical abilities, and tapping into aggression1:29:21 – How Stian and Martin have worked on improving their own technical abilities1:37:39 – Spray wall training vs. commercial gym sets, and separating strength sessions from technical slab sessions1:50:00 – Separating indoor and outdoor climbing1:51:23 – Another question from Rannveig: What are the biggest gimmicks in climbing and training right now, and what old-school methods are the most legit?1:56:51 – “Never respect grades.”2:01:03 – The Play Box vs. the Think Box, and the story of Stian’s FA of Eurofighter V13/14 (8B/+)2:11:06 – What to expect if you buy The Climbing Bible2:14:49 – We should be movement optimists2:16:47 – Where to buy the book, and wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:04:24.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt’s Originial Episode:EP 39: Matt Fultz

Dorian Evers is an individual and couples therapist in Boulder, CO. We talked about navigating different stoke levels in your relationship, how to create a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable, how to have difficult conversations, common insecurities and fears in relationships, tips for long-distance relationships, vanlife dating tips, and much more.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dorian-eversNuggets:0:05:57 – Getting caught in thunderstorms0:09:51 – Dorian’s office and therapy practice0:11:04 – An example of Emotionally Focused Therapy0:15:19 – Bringing our baggage into our relationships0:18:32 – Talking about our relationships as climbers, and why this conversation feels important to Dorian0:21:22 – Parts of ourselves, the different parts of Dorian, and her identity0:25:09 – Do we have to give up our climbing identity to be in a healthy relationship?0:28:04 – Having a mismatched level of stoke with your partner, and getting vulnerable with your partner0:36:48 – How to make our partners feel secure in our relationships0:39:55 – Making meaning of what we don’t know0:41:07 – People pleasing vs. being radically honest0:45:15 – Becoming aware of our fears/worries, and checking in with our partners0:49:21 – Finding delight and empathy in your partner’s experience0:55:59 – Being curious about what lights up your partner0:59:48 – Communication, and creating a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable1:05:10 – Active listening skills1:07:13 – When to have difficult conversations with your partner1:10:38 – Navigating insecurity and jealously1:15:20 – Telling your partner that you’re thinking of them1:18:30 – Staying in the room1:20:26 – “We’re not mind readers.”1:21:22 – Patron question from Joy: How do you stay psyched as a climber when your partner doesn’t climb?1:24:01 – “Every relationship is going to have conflict, but it’s about the repair.”1:27:31 – How to stay connected to your partner when you’re on a trip1:31:36 – How to stay connected in a long-distance relationship1:36:42 – Question from Doreen, and lessons we learn from climbing1:40:53 – Balancing different individual passions in your relationship1:42:46 – Carving out intentional time for conversation1:45:07 – Living in a tiny house, and Dorian’s tips for living in a small space with your partner1:51:59 – My experience with Better Help, and how to find a therapist

Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/callie-joy-blackNuggets:0:05:28 – Overview of this podcast episode, and her son’s pants-shitting story0:12:00 – Why Joy studied Spanish in college, getting pregnant, being a single mom, and studying nutrition0:15:19 – Being obsessed with movement, getting into climbing, and her path to becoming a strength coach0:19:09 – Why Joy chose to specialize in training during pregnancy and post-partum recovery0:24:26 – How male listeners can benefit from this conversation, and how the pelvic floor affects movement0:28:43 – Being scared of pregnancy, and two things Joy wishes someone had told her when she was pregnant for the first time0:32:39 – Fall risk with climbing when pregnant0:41:37 – Where Joy lives and where she usually climbs0:42:59 – Joy’s three pregnancies0:49:14 – Making the best decision for you and your pregnancy0:50:33 – When is it ok to climb after pregnancy?0:56:43 – Educating your doctor0:59:29 – How to support your climbing during pregnancy with strength training, and the role of the pelvic floor1:07:08 – Empowering women to lift heavier things1:18:00 – How Joy gets buy-in from women who are nervous to strength train1:26:04 – Changing from a performance mindset to an exploratory mindset1:27:52 – One of my favorite quotes from Steve Bechtel, and writing the forward to his book Mettle1:30:16 – Losing members of your climbing community when they have kids, and sharing climbing with your kids1:33:06 – Is it possible to climb just as hard after pregnancy and having kids?1:40:38 – Joy’s current climbing goal to climb 5.12, and working with Maddie from Lattice Training1:42:32 – Get a hangboard!1:42:59 – Being selfish and creating boundaries1:50:27 – A question from Mina about key lightbulb moments1:55:17 – Relaxin (hormone) and hangboarding during pregnancy2:02:34 – More resources for breath work and pelvic floor training2:11:27 – Breathing into your butthole2:12:54 – Joy’s tips for using Instagram as a business owner2:19:23 – Love and muscles2:20:51 – “The best project you will ever work on is you.”2:23:02 – My current life project2:27:44 – Joy’s current life project2:31:13 – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining board climbing with weight lifting and hangboarding, when to double down on strength vs. when to mix in endurance training, my plans to try a 5.14 this Fall, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the third one, published Apr 21, 2022)

Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more.*If you liked my episodes with Emil Abrahamsson and Martin Keller, don’t skip this one!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Feals!feals.com/NUGGETUse this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestoneNuggets:0:06:17 – Breakfast, considerations when building a home wall, and how to make climbing holds out of plywood0:12:24 – Skin conditioning, and dishwashing gloves0:15:19 – Applying too much stuff to our skin0:16:56 – Climbing volume, and trying to add more things to make our injuries better0:18:39 – Being obsessive0:21:15 – Jesse’s first rest day0:23:31 – Jesse’s early mentors in climbing, and taking opportunities when they come0:25:28 – Identifying as a boulderer early on, and wishing he had rested more0:27:53 – The Portland phase, and how to get pure raw strength in the climbing gym0:31:27 – Dropping out of college to hit the road for 7 months, and why Jesse’s climbing ability skyrocketed0:33:08 – The Bend phase0:35:41 – How Jesse got into coaching0:38:02 – Emotional regulation, mindset, and common mistakes0:41:01 – An introduction to Jesse’s Performance Pyramid0:43:30 – The tiers of the Performance Pyramid0:47:52 – Jesse’s consistency, and which elements of the pyramid climbers are most resistant to0:50:11 – Changing our circumstances, and thinking of our lifestyles as an investment0:52:25 – Quantum leaps0:54:07 – Spray walls, and the distractions of the climbing gym0:56:24 – Jesse’s spray wall soapbox0:58:01 – Emotional regulation strategies (breathing and mantras)1:03:20 – Emotional regulation strategies (easy climbing with no agenda, and learning to climb alone)1:04:57 – Beta selection, and the language we speak on the wall1:07:39 – Pivoting of the torso1:11:09 – Tough Strips1:13:31 – MacGyvering solutions, and thinking outside the box1:17:30 – Beating your head against bad beta, and the importance of finishing climbs1:21:13 – “We’re all going to hit a point where we’re not climbing harder anymore.”1:25:53 – 3 tips for beginners1:32:54 – 3 tips for outdoor-focused climbers1:37:02 – Summary of 3 tips lists1:37:43 – Practicing technique on rock1:38:35 – Flashing boulders, flash ethics, and tips that helped Jesse flash his first V101:49:43 – Two hard highball first ascents that Jesse climbed in 2021 (see show notes for videos)2:00:58 – Why Jesse named one of his highballs Imposter Syndrome2:03:24 – Being proud of the two highball FAs, and Jesse’s thoughts on repeating established highballs2:04:36 – Exploring the feeling of being afraid, and exposure therapy2:05:44 – Patron question from Xander: Have you had to make changes to your training after turning 30?2:09:54 – Thinking in campaigns/seasons2:13:31 – Fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD)2:14:37 – Doing more training after 302:15:57 – Patron question from Joe: At what level of strength do we experience diminishing returns, and is it worth training the hinge if you can maintain that level without training it directly? (Ex. double bodyweight deadlift)2:18:25 – Patron question from Joe: What is one piece of advice Jesse wishes he had taken earlier? (mastery, and being a barbarian)2:20:44 – Patron question from Christopher: How do you handle it mentally if you start regressing on a project? (setting early goals for a session)2:22:33 – Going into projects with inertia, and knowing when to walk away2:25:03 – Why Jesse is moving to Leavenworth2:26:37 – Using a yoga block to train for narrow compression moves on a V122:29:47 – Jesse’s thoughts on what it would take for him to climb V142:35:47 – Why Jesse and I are thankful for one another, and finding a climbing partner who will cut through your bullshit

In this short bonus episode, my friend Michelle LeBlanc joins me on the podcast to talk about Project Pride! Project Pride is an upcoming outdoor bouldering event in Squamish, B.C, and is an opportunity for 2SLGBTQ+ individuals to connect and climb. Join us to learn more and check out the links below to reserve your spot!Preregister Here!https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-tickets-352167872587Gripped Article:https://gripped.com/profiles/squamish-project-pride-opportunity-for-2slgbtq-individuals-to-connect-build-community-crush-boulders/Instagram Links:@[email protected]

This is my favorite episode of The American Climbing Project so far, and Devin Dabney graciously offered up the audio from his podcast so I could share it with all of you. Enjoy!Check out more episodes of ACP!americanclimbingproject.comAnd support Devin on Patreon!patreon.com/americanclimbingproject

Devin Dabney is a rock climber, routesetter, rapper, music producer, writer, and creator of The American Climbing Project podcast. We talked about using humor to talk about uncomfortable subjects, inviting people into conversations, how climbing saved his life after considering suicide, breaking down barriers to climbing, how competition makes us better, and making a difference in the climbing community.Support Devin's Podcast!patreon.com/americanclimbingprojectCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/devin-dabneyNuggets:0:08:20 – Green screens and SpongeBob0:12:52 – How Devin and I connected, and binging his podcast0:17:41 – Devin’s vision for The American Climbing Project (ACP)0:23:30 – Using humor to poke at difficult subjects, and inviting people into conversation0:28:37 – Devin’s target audience, exposing listeners to different perspectives about race, and my (Steven’s) ignorance having grown up as a white kid from the PNW0:32:22 – Climbing as an escape, and connecting to the world around us as climbers0:33:50 – Plans for season 2 of ACP, and covering gender and sexual orientation in climbing0:35:03 – Rob, and the ACP blog0:38:23 – The skits0:39:40 – Devin and Rob’s mission to provide a tool to grow and improve the climbing community and redistribute wealth0:41:52 – The mixtape format of the ACP0:45:22 – The Black Square skit0:47:26 – Creativity, and sprints of inspiration0:48:44 – How Devin puts together one of his episodes0:52:10 – Growing up playing the violin, and getting into music production and rap0:55:58 – Devin’s 7 different jobs1:00:03 – The Great Equalizer, and Devin’s introduction to climbing1:07:13 – Feeling lost, drafting a suicide note, and how climbing changed his life1:09:15 – Studying architecture, traveling around the world, and sharing the real shit1:14:29 – Why providing access to climbing feels important to Devin, and the many reasons climbing is awesome1:17:09 – Barriers that keep climbing from being accessible/welcoming to marginalized groups of people1:24:27 – The discomfort of climbing, the civil rights movement, and why the history of climbing is white1:28:37 – Trading weed for moonshine, and the different experience of being with other white vs. black climbers1:31:24 – “I would never go hunting without a white person.”1:33:48 – The Halloween episode story, and photo releases in gym waivers1:41:58 – How the podcast has been received, and responding to criticism1:48:25 – Being reactive to headlines1:52:40 – Topics that Devin hopes to cover in future seasons of the ACP podcast2:00:12 – How to support the ACP2:05:28 – Plug Tone Audio, why Devin loves competition, and shared inspiration2:17:15 – Who Devin looks up to2:20:50 – Guests that Devin would love to hear on The Nugget2:23:48 – The depth we have as rock climbers2:25:45 – Climbers are leaders2:26:35 – What’s next for ACP

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:02:56.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAlita's Original Episode:EP 87: Alita Contreras

Zofia Reych is a Polish climber and anthropologist and author of Born to Climb. We talked about renovating their mid-18th century house in Fontainebleau, researching the book, identifying as non-binary and directing the Women’s Bouldering Festival, what it’s like to be autistic, key chapters in climbing’s history, losing friends in the mountains, and much more.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/zofia-reychNuggets:0:06:05 – Getting back from bouldering0:08:19 – Zofia’s 240+-year-old house in Fontainebleau, and fixing the leaking toilet0:11:31 – 12th-century castles, and what will be left of our civilization in 700 years0:12:45 – Growing up in Poland, and living and bouldering in Fontainebleau0:16:30 – Expecting to get better at climbing by living in Font, and my (Steven’s) experience with the 9-5 grind0:18:27 – Our education system in the US, having direction, and Zofia’s fascination with people who start things very young0:20:09 – Zofia’s mom, piano, and romanticizing about having a single focus in life0:22:02 – The immersive process of writing a book, and the impact on Zofia’s climbing0:25:26 – Negative vs. positive motivation0:28:27 – The cycle of falling in love with climbing, feeling drive, pushing hard, and forgetting why we fell in love with it in the first place0:30:05 – “Don’t push it.”0:30:53 – Why Zofia felt like they needed to write Born to Climb0:32:00 – An overview of the book0:36:14 – Doing research for the book0:40:38 – Zofia’s master’s thesis, and why it feels outdated0:44:15 – Zofia’s gender identity (they/them), and being the director of a women’s bouldering festival0:48:13 – Zofia’s Instagram post about gender identity (see show notes for link)0:51:01 – “There shouldn’t be one recipe for how to be a human.”0:53:21 – Autism, and using an inner formula to have conversations like this one0:55:35 – Acting0:58:31 – What Zofia is like when they are alone or with their mom, being childlike without filters, and dancing in public1:01:35 – Stimming (stimulating)1:02:18 – Being diagnosed with autism at age 31, and how that has changed Zofia’s life experience1:04:43 – Being introverted in a society that rewards extroversion, and telling your life story to someone you meet in an elevator1:11:16 – What Zofia does to recharge1:12:35 – Climbing alone vs. with a group1:17:58 – The scope of Born to Climb, stories from the mid-14th century hill walking, how polar exploration influenced climbing in the Alps, and climbing’s elitist roots1:24:35 – On Stolen Land, and the uncomfortable history of Yosemite1:33:21 – Loss in climbing, the fragility of being human, and exposing ourselves to risk1:43:40 – Being responsible for your own safety, and feeling empowered1:45:55 – TrueBlue1:46:57 – Why writing the last chapter of the book was the most difficult part1:49:56 – What Zofia hopes readers take away from Born to Climb, and being a tiny spec on the timeline1:53:00 – The existential sandwich1:54:32 – Who should read Born to Climb, and where to buy it (see links in show notes)1:58:21 – Time for a nap

Karly Rager is a structural engineer turned climbing coach, and the founder of Project Direct Coaching. We talked about Karly’s background and what led her to start her own coaching business, being a female in two male-dominated industries, mental strategies for developing focus and overcoming fear, transitioning between climbing disciplines, using injuries as opportunities, cultivating longevity in our climbing, valuing coaches more highly, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/karly-ragerNuggets:0:06:11 – Literature, poetry, and public speaking0:10:07 – Engineering school, and rediscovering art0:11:37 – Karly’s background, studying engineering and working as a structural engineer, and discovering climbing0:15:48 – How climbing connects with the engineering and the artistic parts of the brain0:19:11 – Mentoring friends, and becoming a climbing coach0:21:52 – Mental strategies for developing focus, and being an observer of your own mind0:25:53 – Making mental training measurable, and mindfulness practice0:28:31 – Starting her coaching business (Project Direct), and figuring out which lever to pull0:31:58 – Developing skills, emersion, and learning vs. performing0:36:41 – The “Trenches of Transition”, and my (Steven’s) transition from Smith Rock to steep cave climbing0:39:26 – Having different grade pyramids for different styles of climbing0:43:51 – Karly’s 4 Pillars, and questions to ask yourself if you are considering getting a coach0:48:24 – How to get initial coaching experience, Karly’s leap from engineering to coaching, and recommended certifications for climbing coaches0:53:43 – Stacking her resume, and being female in a male-dominated engineering world0:58:23 – Being scrutinized as a female climbing coach, standing up for herself, and letting her guard down1:01:49 – Using respectful language, and Karly’s tip of pretending your email is addressed to a male recipient1:07:18 – Setbacks in climbing, breaking her leg, and the finite number of tears we have to cry1:14:30 – My (Steven’s) first finger injury, and the wisdom I got from my roommate1:17:45 – Using injuries as an opportunity1:22:47 – My (Steven’s) favorite climbing areas right now, and favorite crags in St. George, UT1:26:45 – New rock types take time1:33:01 – Trying to onsight ‘The Rainbow Wall’1:40:41 – Placing more value on ourselves as climbers and coaches, and being paid based on the scarcity of our skills1:48:12 – How we value overworking in western society, and why we should be encouraged (and paid well) to do work we enjoy1:52:56 – Karly’s “zone of genius”1:54:51 – Cultivating longevity1:59:36 – The eye contact drill2:01:50 – Give each skill 8-10 weeks of focus2:02:35 – Our body’s ability to remember skills and movements2:04:51 – Different learning styles, using imagery, and using video as a tool2:12:22 – Karly’s strategies for keeping her coaching businesses sustainable, having set days for specific tasks, and taking time off2:20:13 – Making coaching more accessible while paying coaches well, and other ways to pay it forward2:28:00 – Being a mentor and a mentee2:30:33 – How Karly is currently being a mentee2:33:46 – Karly’s hope for the climbing industry

Magnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/magnus-midtboNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:39) – Burning out on competitions, and starting his career as a YouTuber(00:10:45) – Who is Magnus’s audience?(00:13:10) – Editing and perfectionism(00:15:59) – The hard work behind success(00:18:05) – Pacing and music, and making the films personal(00:21:09) – Being an interovert as a YouTuber(00:23:35) – Why YouTube Channels die out(00:26:16) – Making other types of videos outside of climbing, and not being afraid of trying new things(00:28:05) – Parallels between YouTube and climbing, and logging routes on 8a.nu(00:29:32) – Being known for his strength, and suffering during collaborations(00:30:19) – Free soloing with Alex Honnold(00:32:45) – Patron question from Cody: Which collaborations were the most fun?(00:35:59) – Jujimufu(00:37:54) – What Magnus learned from collaborating with Juji and Tom(00:39:37) – Getting criticism from climbers, and letting go of worrying about what other people think(00:40:49) – Anton the Russian Ninja Warrior(00:42:09) – What Magnus has learned from spending time with Adam Ondra, and surrounding yourself with people who make you feel lazy(00:44:19) – Finding balance vs. focusing on one thing(00:50:58) – A week in Magnus’s life, and why he doesn’t film many outdoor videos(00:56:37) – Common themes between top climbers, and how many of us overcomplicate our training(00:58:23) – What climbing means to Magnus now, and wanting to climb a V15 (8C) boulder(01:00:04) – Quitting coffee(01:02:05) – Magnus’s go-to strength maintenance session(01:04:12) – Why Magnus primarily climbs on commercial gym boulders(01:05:47) – What Magnus would do if he wanted to climb his hardest again(01:08:45) – Feeling healthier and happier at his current bodyweight(01:11:04) – How much harder Magnus climbs without a shirt(01:11:49) – Training on rock(01:13:45) – Patron Question from Andrew: Biggest takeaways from training with Adam Ondra?(01:16:39) – Watching tutorials on cameras and editing(01:18:33) – How collaborations come about(01:20:24) – Dream collaborations(01:21:34) – What’s next for Magnus’s channel(01:25:14) – Why Magnus doesn’t outsource his editing(01:27:26) – How it works to get paid as a YouTuber, and investing in climbing gyms(01:29:24) – What Magnus wishes he would have known earlier about YouTube, and wishing he hadn’t had respect for climbing grades(01:33:17) – How top climbers almost have two personalities, and balancing humility with confidence(01:35:18) – Learning to make fewer excuses, and other gifts from YouTube(01:37:22) – Traveling, hiking, and exploring(01:38:48) – What’s next(01:39:30) – Where to find Magnus on the internet

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Chad Andrews. We talked about selling his house and living on the road full-time with his wife during covid, the pros and cons of vanlife, being your own boss, and climbing full-time, how to have a healthier relationship with money, investing principles, book recommendations, and health insurance tips for the self-employed.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:14:38.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingChad's Other Episodes:EP 20: Chad AndrewsEP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoulder, elbow, and finger injuries as climbers, warming up your fingers at the crag, what to do to help your body recover on rest days, and much more.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jared-vagyNuggets:0:05:00 – J-Rock the hip-hop artist0:09:58 – Running track in college and getting into climbing0:11:25 – Getting excited about physical therapy0:12:24 – Hip-hop parties with grandma, and applying physical therapy to his own climbing0:14:36 – Becoming “The Climbing Doctor” and writing for DPM0:17:22 – Overly engaging our shoulders0:20:56 – Shoulder position for hangboarding0:23:08 – How has climbing changed, and how climbing injuries have changed0:26:30 – My (Steven’s) balance of climbing and training0:28:12 – Balancing training and climbing, and seeing more injuries from training vs. climbing0:29:33 – Most common climbing injuries (shoulders, elbows, and fingers)0:31:42 – Exercises for preventing climbing-related knee injuries0:42:01 – Knee exercises for drop knees0:47:19 – How to program your knee injury prevention exercises0:49:04 – Patron question from Tyler: Compound lifts vs. accessory exercises for injury prevention?0:54:57 – Most common climbing-related shoulder injuries, and why shoulder injuries are difficult to diagnose0:59:26 – Who to go to if you get a shoulder injury, and what to look for in a physical therapist1:06:03 – Research on shoulder injuries1:07:55 – How to prevent climbing-related shoulder injuries1:11:58 – Resistance Band Rows, how difficult they should feel, and sets and reps1:16:20 – Pressing exercises for the shoulders, how to fix scapular winging, and flys for elbow pain1:24:20 – How to prevent finger injuries, hand positions on the hangboard, pockets, and finger lengths1:29:56 – Torsion on the hangboard, and gaps between fingers1:34:49 – The rubber band exercise for finger gaps1:39:26 – Hangboarding as brushing your teeth1:40:17 – Warming up your fingers for a climbing session1:45:20 – Grab your finger and shake your elbow1:48:04 – Warming up to raise the temperature in your hands and fingers1:50:23 – Warming up with a portable hangboard1:56:00 – Golfer’s Elbow, and diagnosing other sources of elbow pain2:04:32 – Patron question from Felix: How do we know when to listen to pain, vs. ignore pain? (Graded Motor Imagery)2:10:27 – How to diagnose PIP or DIP joint inflammation in the fingers, and recommendations for capsulitis2:14:45 – Advice for pulley aches2:16:21 – Patron question from Ana: Thoughts on the long-term effects of bouldering falls?2:20:55 – Motion is lotion2:23:07 – Patron question from Shawn: What exercises should we do on rest days to help with recovery? What should we avoid doing on rest days?2:26:31 – Training and educating other physical therapists, and doing more research on climbers2:30:32 – Jared’s climbing and rope soloing2:31:40 – Wrap up

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as a teenager, embracing athletics in her 30s, discovering climbing at age 42, sending her first 5.12a at age 53, yoga as the fountain of youth, and ageism in climbing. *I loved this conversation. If you enjoy exploring different perspectives from your own, and hearing about others’ lived experiences, don’t skip this episode.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carol-simpsonNuggets:0:06:50 – A day in the life of Carol Simpson, and her home in Lone Pine0:10:27 – Moving from Vegas to Lone Pine, having different chapters in our lives, and becoming apathetic about the beauty around you0:13:23 – Being born in 19440:14:43 – Growing up in the South in the 50s as a “tomboy”, and feeling pressure to be more traditionally feminine0:19:28 – Being raised to believe that women get married and have kids, and finding feminism0:22:08 – Our adult life begins at 300:23:46 – Not being able to get a loan for a car without a man to sign for the loan0:25:11 – Going back to school in her 30s with two kids, and starting to play tennis and running and trying other sports0:30:30 – More about being a teenager in the 50s and 60s0:32:58 – How the culture continues to change for women, and Carol’s daughters and granddaughters0:37:45 – Discovering climbing at age 42, and how climbing completely changed her life0:42:31 – Hitting the road to climb in her 40s, and early climbing training books0:46:00 – Art, studying interior design in college, and working in the big city0:52:04 – Scrambling a 4th class route, and getting a hard time for being a mountain goat0:56:04 – John0:59:58 – The book Lying by Sam Harriss, being honest with your partner, and some of Carol’s favorite climbing trips1:04:25 – How Carol and John navigate their political differences1:10:03 – What Carol appreciates most about John1:12:39 – “You can’t get off of the bus.” - Mark Twight1:16:36 – Redpoint climbing shop near Smith Rock, and redpointing Latin Lover 5.12a at age 531:24:29 – Question from Taylor: What are the things when it comes to aging as an athlete that people don’t think about?1:31:22 – Practicing yoga since 19681:34:26 – Carol’s current yoga practice, and the yin and the yang1:39:38 – The time commitment to see improvement through yoga, and taking care of your health1:44:35 – Working with Chris Heilman, and expanding her comfort zone1:53:59 – How Carol keeps her wits sharp, and how to remember names1:58:40 – 80% of life is showing up2:01:32 – Ageism, and showing respect for our elders2:08:59 – No limits

Lea Volpe is a paraclimber for Great Britain and a 2x medalist at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Lea holds down a 9-5 job working in health policy, coaches junior athletes, and is essentially a professional climber on the side. We talked about paraclimbing competitions, being diagnosed with Ataxia, how we perceive wheelchairs, empathy in coaching, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lea-volpeNuggets:0:07:04 – Getting over covid0:08:06 – A normal weekday in Lea’s life0:11:32 – How Lea recharges her mental batteries0:14:14 – Balancing an intellectual and sedentary job with the physical activity of climbing0:16:54 – How most climbers feel guilty for taking downtime0:18:59 – Lea’s energy reserves, and learning to budget her energy0:21:28 – An introduction to paraclimbing, Lea’s disability of Ataxia, and strategies she uses to climb around a coordination and balance impairment0:26:32 – Why Lea uses a wheelchair day-to-day, and climbing with her disability0:31:33 – Experiencing imposter syndrome as a strong para athlete0:34:04 – How climbing levels the playing field, and how many of us start at V00:36:58 – Failure is part of climbing0:39:06 – Lea’s life as a kid and teenager, and getting diagnosed with Ataxia and Ehlers Danlos Syndrome in her early 20s0:44:21 – How Lea discovered climbing0:46:10 – How we perceive people in wheelchairs, and feeling self-conscious at the climbing wall0:53:00 – What we can learn from Lea in regards to how we think about disability0:58:01 – The paraclimbing competition format, and some of the different athlete categories1:02:04 – Climbing to be in the paraolympics, and classification systems1:07:03 – How athletes get assessed to determine their classification1:17:35 – How route setters influence competition outcomes, and setting guidelines in paraclimbing competitions1:20:47 – Working with a coach vs. being self-coached1:24:51 – Keeping training sustainable1:28:49 – What a “bad day” looks like for Lea1:35:48 – How Lea got into coaching1:42:24 – What Lea hopes to pass on to the kids she coaches, and the role of coach/teacher1:48:10 – Having the questions vs. asking questions, and qualities that make a good coach1:51:40 – Empathy in coaching, and how climbing brings out our deepest and darkest fears1:56:12 – Inspiration porn and how it can reduce people down to a tool, and how Lea wants to use her platform2:02:42 – The barriers involved in climbing outdoors2:13:22 – What’s next for Lea

Dr. Carrie Cooper is a former professional climber and a doctor of physical therapy. We talked about her background in gymnastics and dance, bouldering in the early 2000s, her path to physical therapy, referencing research in climbing, why climbers should think of themselves as athletes, and the most important things we are missing in our physical training.Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carrie-cooperNuggets:0:04:56 – Morning rituals0:07:10 – Audio setups, and presenting at the Tokyo Olympics0:13:42 – Climbers are athletes0:16:21 – A day in the life of Dr. Carrie Cooper0:18:46 – Carrie’s clinic and what she does0:23:20 – Gymnastics and dance0:26:27 – Going to school with Danny McBride, and more about dance0:28:17 – Starting to climb in Sweden, and falling in love with the culture of climbing0:31:15 – Back injury, finding pilates, and walking away from dance0:34:33 – The American bouldering scene in the early 2000s, and the small but mighty group of women bouldering in Hueco0:41:28 – Carrie’s genetics, and what she brought with her from dance and gymnastics to climbing0:45:20 – Trying to try a little harder, and sneaking up on the boulder problem0:47:52 – Carrie’s path to becoming a Doctor of Physical Therapy, and what she specialized in0:52:17 – Patron question from Kaska: How did Carrie’s climbing and recovery compare between her two pregnancies?0:56:37 – Climbing like honey during pregnancy1:00:15 – Research that exists in climbing, and Carrie’s philosophy on basing recommendations on empirical evidence1:06:22 – Age parameters for climbing injuries, and finger injuries in kids/adolescents1:07:52 – Where do you go to find climbing research, and how relevant is it for athletes?1:10:29 – Carrie’s pulley classification schema, and applying science to what we are doing1:14:03 – Knowing what is normal for climbers by referring to research, and why you might not need to jump to getting an MRI1:17:57 – Relying on trusted practitioners, holding the loudest voices accountable to the research, and drawing inspiration from national teams1:22:31 – “The clinician is always ahead of the curve.” - Charles Poliquin1:28:10 – Taping fingers1:30:10 – My wrist injury, and when to stop using tape1:32:53 – Retraining movement patterns after a finger injury1:39:39 – Mobility and a proper warmup1:45:06 – Warming up your thoracic spine and hips1:50:21 – Patron question from Alistair: What are common prescriptions Carrie has given national-level athletes?1:54:06 – Patron question from Shawn: How does Carrie decide when and how much antagonist and mobility work to incorporate for her athletes?1:56:30 – Undoing the doing, and recovering after climbing1:58:25 – Minimums: a connective tissue health session2:01:10 – Discussing Emil Abrahamsson’s results from his “no hangs” experiment2:07:40 – Keith Baar, and an example Minimums session2:11:45 – How to do Minimums with a Tension Block or other no hangs grip implement2:15:38 – How you should feel after Minimums, and how easy it should feel2:17:02 – Should we be doing Minimums over the long term?2:18:46 – Patron question from Chris: Compound movements vs. more specific antagonist type exercises?2:20:40 – Patron question from Katja: How has Carrie kept her psyche and strength up over two decades of climbing at such a high level?2:22:40 – How our lives dictate what we can do in our training, and “just doing something, is better than not doing something”2:24:34 – Patron question from Kaska: How did she manage to still boulder hard as a Mom of two?2:26:25 – Patron question from Kaska: Who are her inspirations in climbing now, and how has that changed over the years since she first started climbing?2:28:50 – Patron question from Katja: What are some of Carrie’s big dreams for the future (climbing and/or nonclimbing)?2:31:02 – Overcoming things in the future2:32:00 – Carrie’s passion project and wrap up

The tables are turned in this episode! Steven Dimmitt joins Chad Andrews from Clipping Chains to talk about leaving his engineering career to start the podcast, building a craft vs. pursuing a passion, reaching more than 1M downloads, monetization, outsourcing things you hate doing, the glorification of van life, and key climbing principles he has learned from hosting The Nugget.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chad-andrews-interviews-steven-dimmitt

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamajamma’ (5.15a?), what it felt like to send, how he would have trained this summer if he hadn’t sent, favorite workouts for power endurance, plans to try his 5.15b ‘Big Bone’ project, and what I learned from five weeks of climbing with Joe.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:21:47.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJoe's Original Episode:EP 96: Joe Kinder

Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelleNuggets:0:07:18 – How to pronounce Yves’ name, and living in Ottawa0:09:20 – The most legendary training montage I have ever seen, and an introduction to APL0:12:32 – Why Yves thinks climbs could represent themselves well in grip sports, and what a competition is like0:15:22 – Specializing vs. being a well-rounded athlete in grip0:18:11 – Balancing climbing goals with grip competitions0:19:28 – What Yves has learned from grip sports, and taking training ideas from powerlifting0:22:26 – How Yves bases his training around the demands of a specific boulder or goal0:24:49 – Is it possible to combine outdoor climbing with quality finger strength training?0:31:07 – An example training week with outdoor bouldering on Sunday0:35:05 – Preparing your body for the amount of training you want to do, and progressively working your way up0:36:19 – Building capacity, and learning about nutrition0:37:55 – Reading nutritional research about bouldering0:39:33 – How Yves has changed his diet0:42:28 – Maintaining finger strength during off-seasons, and pushing hard for goals0:45:51 – Finger training principles, keeping things simple, consistency, writing things down, and using RPE to measure your training0:51:38 – Training strength when you are fresh, finishing fresh, and not going to failure (adding a buffer)0:54:14 – Yves’ session load calculator spreadsheet0:57:36 – Preparation cycles, and competitive cycles1:00:45 – Jazz1:02:13 – How Yves trained for ‘So What’ V15, and building shoulder strength and mobility1:05:15 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Any tips for building climbing-specific shoulder strength?1:07:34 – Yves top 3 finger training exercises for climbing1:12:01 – Progressive warmup for finger training1:13:58 – Micro edge training1:15:39 – Contact strength training1:19:20 – Summary of Yves’ top 3 finger training methods1:21:08 – Patron question from Alan: Does Yves have a favorite way to train full crimps?1:22:39 – Yves’ full crimp story, and how he prevents finger injuries1:26:14 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Tips for training individual fingers? (And Yves’ grip positions and anatomy)1:29:53 – Patron question from Alan: How does Yves balance different methods of training fingers and grip strength?1:33:19 – Prepping for ‘Terremere’ and Hueco1:34:17 – Patron question from Daniel: Any plans to travel to world-famous bouldering areas and try the classic V15s or V16s?1:35:38 – 1-7-11 on the campus board (with slightly different spacing)1:37:00 – Patron question from Daniel: Is there such thing as “enough power”? What about finger strength?1:38:18 – Patron question from Xander: Do your finger strength gains still transfer to climbing?1:39:28 – One of Yves’ favorite coaches to learn from1:40:59 – When you are starting off almost anything will work1:41:44 – Patron question from Michael: What is the smallest edge you can hang with one hand? What about two hands?1:42:54 – Being muscular and still being strong on tiny holds, and putting on muscle mass in the right places1:44:30 – Patron question from David: How does Yves look after his skin, especially splits and tears?1:46:48 – Contributing to local bouldering areas, and winning the world championships1:47:41 – Yves’ daughters and gymnastics1:50:26 – Listen to your body, and enjoy the process1:53:10 – Be present1:54:39 – Wrap up

Paul Robinson is one of the top boulderers in the world and has been climbing at a V15 level for more than a decade. We talked about building his new house, recovering from neck surgery, his recent diagnosis of autism spectrum disorder, climbing 1000+ V11s or harder, his analogy of climbing as a book, hardest FAs, trying to climb V16, travel routines, filmmaking, and much more.Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-robinsonNuggets:0:06:18 – Designing and building his house0:10:56 – How Paul got into filmmaking0:13:10 – Feature films vs. YouTube, and Hueco Dailies 0:15:14 – The Road to Recovery film series0:17:48 – Paul’s neck injury0:24:00 – Leg injury0:26:25 – Being back to 90%, and finding new ways to improve0:28:09 – Hope, optimism, and a new perspective on finding challenges in climbing0:32:33 – Going through the stages of grief with an injury, getting older, and hoping to continue climbing at 60 years old0:35:29 – John Sherman0:36:32 – Paul’s 8a.nu account, and his goal to climb 1000 boulders 8A (V11) or harder0:40:38 – Running out of things to climb, and getting psyched on finding new boulders0:43:14 – What Paul’s drive alive, and his goals for his Hueco trip0:46:38 – The uniqueness of climbing, being a perfectionist, and seeking mastery0:49:57 – Climbing as a book, and whether Paul is still getting better at climbing0:52:24 – Why we don’t often repeat things we’ve done, and Paul’s story about flashing Nagual and repeating it for the Rock Rodeo0:55:56 – Does V16 feel important?1:01:41 – How Paul is thinking of training for ‘Box Therapy’ V16, and why Paul tries to maintain a baseline of endurance for bouldering1:08:36 – Paul’s projecting tactics1:13:10 – ‘Lucid Dreaming’1:25:01 – Dave Graham, ’Spectre’, and ’Total Eclipse’1:30:40 – Patron question from Nick: If you could only climb one boulder for the rest of your life, what would you choose?1:31:27 – Fontainbleau1:32:43 – Opening up about being diagnosed with Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD), and some of the symptoms Paul experiences1:38:32 – OCD tendencies, Paul’s outfits, touch, social anxiety, and hyper-focus1:43:34 – Stuck laying on the couch, and opening up conversations1:50:35 – Routines that help Paul feel grounded1:53:53 – Challenging the clothing norms, and decision fatigue1:59:47 – Paul’s go-to climbing shoes2:02:37 – Toe hooking, and customizing his Solutions for ‘The Story of Two Worlds’2:04:29 – Patron question from André: Any plans to try ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17?2:07:13 – The challenge of living in the desert and trying to climb in humid environments2:09:33 – Bugalisen2:10:48 – Patron question from André: Which one of your FA’s do you think is the hardest one?2:11:58 – Paul’s project in the South Platte, CO, and how he names his boulders2:13:46 – ‘Karoshi’2:14:28 – Patron question from Ana: What areas does Paul think have the most remaining potential? Where is the next frontier for bouldering?2:18:30 – Paul’s favorite rock type2:20:37 – Patron question from Prithipal: How strong are Paul’s fingers?2:23:51 – Tiny crimps, and why you don’t need to be able to do one-arm pullups to climb V162:26:58 – Meeting Paul back in 2013, and what’s next

"Steven's Blog" is now available for Patrons!In this blog episode, Steven shares a recap of his final weeks in Hueco, and his first two weeks trying a 14a in Utah.Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more blog episodes! Plus, it helps out the show! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCheck out the "Announcing Reflections and Steven's Blog" episode to learn more!

"Reflections" are now available for Patrons!In this Reflections episode, Mina talks with Steven about an area of her climbing that she still struggles with, and about building general strength. She also talked about the different versions of ourselves we experience in life and embracing the current version of herself.Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more Reflections episodes! Plus, it helps out The Nugget and The Curious Climber Podcast!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCheck out the "Announcing Reflections and Recaps" episode to learn more!

Announcing more new content for Patrons! "Reflections" are collaboration episodes with Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Hazel Findlay of the Curious Climber Podcast. These are short episodes where one of us shares our thoughts on something we've been thinking about, or are working on in our own climbing or lives."Recaps" is a new episode series where I share what I have been up to for the past month, how I have been training, top 3 climbing highlights, what I could have done better, plans for the next month, and more. Think of this as Steven's monthly blog update, but in audio form. UPDATE: I originally called my blog posts "Recaps" but people were confusing those with recaps of the podcast so I changed the name to "Steven's Blog".Become a Patron for $10/mo to get access to Reflections and Steven's Blog! Plus, it helps out the show! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my third Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my 2022 trip to Hueco, combining hangboarding with outdoor climbing, trip highlights, the Hueco Downward Spiral, lessons learned, and what I plan to do differently next year.*I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first and second Follow-Ups with him before this episode.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:41:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)

Jordan Cannon is a professional climber who exploded onto the Yosemite scene in recent years with multiple in-a-day free ascents of El Capitan, and hard big wall linkups. We covered Jordan’s climbing origin story, playing college soccer, seeking adventure in Yosemite, van life tips, big wall pooping stories, free climbing El Cap in a day vs. multiple days, the value of dirtbagging, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10% off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jordan-cannonNuggets:0:06:46 – Peter Croft’s episode, and how Jordan got connected with Peter0:10:30 – Climbing with your heroes, and getting turned on to sport climbing by Peter0:12:40 – Jordan’s origin story, and teaching himself how to sport climb in a tree at age 70:21:01 – Telling his mom he wanted to become a climber at age 40:23:02 – Appreciating climbing more because he found it later in life0:25:43 – Being burned out on team sports, being let down by teammates, and seeking adventure in rock climbing0:29:08 – Starting to climb at the James Island County Park Climbing Wall0:32:01 – Road tripping to CA0:34:38 – Going to Joshua Tree for the first time0:38:46 – Jordan’s rock climbing education, and what Jordan and I each studied in college0:44:35 – Jordan’s path to becoming a professional climber, feeling alone in his passion for trad and adventure climbing, and getting out of San Diego0:48:07 – What drew Jordan to Yosemite, and seeing Valley Uprising for the first time0:54:04 – People who made history by not trying to make history0:57:28 – Being overwhelmed by the amount of things to repeat in climbing, and Jordan’s first experience in Yosemite1:01:31 – Why you shouldn’t wait until you are “good enough” to go to Yosemite1:03:35 – Why Yosemite is Jordan’s favorite climbing area, and why he needs breaks from it1:05:21 – Working seasonally and living the dirtbag life, working odd jobs, and how Jordan structures his year1:09:26 – Living out of a Honda CRV, living in a cave in Yosemite, and the value of dirtbagging1:15:26 – Jordan’s top vanlife tips, and pee bottle beta1:20:52 – Going number two1:22:30 – Big wall pooping stories, and “shit-putting”1:30:03 – Free climbing El Cap in a day vs. over multiple days1:37:36 – Sending the Triple Crown link-up1:46:56 – The coolest goal Jordan can think of in Yosemite1:49:21 – How Jordan structures his year now that he is a professional climber1:54:47 – Jordan’s bouldering and sport climbing goals, and meeting Tom Herbert1:58:57 – Advice for aspiring big wall or traditional climbers2:01:01 – Diet, sleep, and having different modes (send, training, rest)2:05:54 – “Long term consistency trumps short term intensity.” - Bruce Lee2:07:32 – Taking off-seasons or easy phases2:13:13 – The Classroom Analogy2:17:05 – The skills and steps required to climb El Cap2:20:29 – Wrap up and Jordan’s Yosemite goals for the Spring of 2022

In Q&A 5, I tackle Patron questions about my own current hangboard training, how to fit everything in that we need to train, how to deal with bad body image, how my training and climbing have changed since starting the podcast, golden nuggets for newer climbers, where I found the theme song for the podcast, my van life internet setup, and much more. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-5Nuggets:0:03:55 – Intro and updates0:07:41 – My Personal Climbing / Training / Goals:0:07:41 – Vincent: Current finger strength routine?0:15:16 – Vincent: What does your current training cycle look like?0:18:24 – Konstantinos: What are your European dream sends?0:20:24 – Daniel: If you could send the next grade by sacrificing something pleasurable, what would it be?0:22:20 – Christoph: How did it go trying to free Moonlight Buttress? Are you going back?0:24:18 – Christoph: Plans for Yosemite this year?0:26:00 – Matt: Top 3 go-to climbing shoes?0:28:04 – André: What grade do you honestly feel is your absolute limit in bouldering?0:29:27 – André: Do you miss some of the body strength exercises you used to do a lot? (Pistol squats, deadlift, etc.)0:32:17 – Xander: How have these podcasts shaped the way you climb and train?0:36:25 – Training / Climbing Advice:0:36:25 – Konstantinos: What would be your golden climbing nugget towards newer climbers?0:40:19 – Briana: How do you fit in all of the different types of training that seem necessary, without getting too fatigued?0:44:34 – Neal: Verm mentioned curing his chronic elbow tendonitis by primarily training his shoulders. Do you have any insights into this?0:47:42 – Nutrition / Body image:0:47:42 – Savva: How do you deal with bad body image?0:52:25 – Savva: How do you decide how to eat and rest without getting obsessive or spending a fortune?0:54:37 – My Background / Route Setting:0:54:37– Justin: Furthest you got from the WWU rec center and found tape on your shoe?0:55:30 – Justin: Biggest positive change in commercial climbing gyms vs. when you started? Biggest negative change?0:58:06 – Justin: Did WWU shape your climbing experience for the better? How do you think modern collegiate climbing experiences compare?1:00:30 – Will: Did you have a favorite setting style as a route setter back in college?1:01:52 – Will: Did you set at a bouldering or a rope climbing wall?1:03:58 – Vanlife / Traveling / Lifestyle:1:03:58 – Savva: How do you plan your climbing trips?1:07:08 – Savva: Biggest expenses doing van life?1:08:23 – Ainsley: Cultural differences between different climbing areas? Biggest takeaways from traveling?1:10:46 – Briana: Is it difficult to find partners on the road? Any tips for finding partners for roped climbing?1:12:38 – Fil: Any thoughts on how to fill your non-climbing time when living in a van?1:15:08 – Skyler: Where do you like to climb during the summer?1:16:06 – Joe: Favorite go-to dinners in the van?1:17:42 – Liam: Internet setup in the van?1:19:32 – Personal / Fun / Random:1:19:32 – Casey: If you could have been a pro athlete in any other sport when you were young, what would you be?1:20:57 – André: Top 2 climbing places outside of the US you would like to know and why?1:22:17 – André: Who's is the freakiest climber you've seen perform live, and how was it?1:25:32 – Savva: How does your family feel about climbing?1:26:41 – Savva: What do you want to try / learn / experience / send next year?1:29:35 – Savva: What’s the last book you enjoyed or found important?1:31:22 – Vincent: As your fame grows, how do you see yourself changing?1:33:21 – Vincent: What things you didn't think about when you started this venture have become important for you?1:34:43 – Vincent: Are there any things that felt important when you started, such as training and climbing outdoors, that have changed in priority?1:35:51 – Daniel: Are you thinking of settling down any time soon?1:37:14 – Daniel: Are you dating now? Do you want kids?1:38:44 – Darren: What are you grateful for and why did you stop asking that question?1:41:12 – Podcast / Podcasting Goals:1:41:12 – Taylor: How did you choose the theme song for the Nugget?1:42:58 – Taylor: What podcasts does a podcaster listen to?1:45:54 – Ainsley: When you say “I’ll link to that in the show notes”, are you just leaving yourself a reminder

Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10% off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehallyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:07:43) – Staying in a gite in Fontainebleau(00:09:45) – Shauna Coxsey’s husband(00:11:07) – A background on Ned’s climbing, some of his accomplishments, and going to college in Sheffield(00:16:51) – Starting Beastmaker with Dan Varian, and the training paradigm in the early 2000s(00:21:01) – Looking up to Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, and Malcolm Smith, and looking for ways to improve(00:22:57) – Ned’s philosophy for improving at climbing, being well-rounded, and enjoying doing lots of climbs quickly(00:28:20) – Ned’s dimensions, “If that’s how you’re built then so be it”, and the advantages of carrying more muscle as a climber(00:32:08) – The leap in Ned’s climbing from hangboarding for three years (V11 to V13, or 8A to 8B), and getting a second jump from training on his cellar board (home woody)(00:35:29) – What do people miss most frequently in their finger training?(00:39:40) – How to combine long-term finger training with outdoor or indoor climbing(00:45:25) – Warming up on the fingerboard for climbing sessions(00:47:35) – Active vs. passive finger strength, and which grips Ned focuses on in his finger training(00:52:05) – An annual overview of Ned’s finger training, and how he prepares for specific goals(00:56:11) – How much variety should you have in your finger training?(00:59:24) – Training one grip type per session(01:02:12) – The genetic component of finger strength(01:05:54) – How Ned structures a week of finger training(01:10:19) – Mixing max hangs and repeaters, and sticking with protocols for 10 sessions(01:14:25) – Ned’s thoughts on only training half crimp(01:16:33) – The balance of Ned’s finger training and outdoor climbing(01:20:19) – Ned’s home wall, and making his own wooden holds(01:22:19) – Patron question from Finn: Three best tools for making wooden holds?(01:24:21) – Ned’s thinking on using the commercial gym and climbing on “normal” gym boulders(01:26:11) – Structuring a board session (bouldering)(01:28:28) – The board culture in the UK, and how every board has its own character(01:32:09) – Targeting move types in a sessions(01:32:55) – Bouldering with ankle weights(01:39:42) – Expectations when it comes to finger training, and trusting the process(01:42:38) – Taking time completely off from climbing, and the perspective you get when you get your hand forced by injuries(01:48:26) – Patron question from Gunter: How long has Ned been hangboarding? How much has his finger strength increased during that time? How well have those gains translated to climbing performance?(01:54:01) – Using training as a chance to learn how hard you can pull if you try really hard(01:55:55) – Patron question from Mihail: How do your training approaches change depending on if you need to work on active vs. passive gripping?(01:57:09) – Patron question from Moritz: Where does Ned put his thumb when crimping on the fingerboard?(02:00:19) – Patron question from Simon: Can Ned attribute any breakthroughs in his climbing to changes in his mindset or other lifestyle factors?(02:02:29) – What it was like supporting Shauna through her Olympic preparation(02:03:59) – Patron question from Alistair: Does Ned train contact strength?(02:05:13) – Patron question from Andrew: How important is flexibility for tall climbers? And what does his bare minimum stretching session look like?(02:06:12) – Ned’s stretching routine(02:10:14) – Science podcasts(02:11:19) – Patron question from fdclimbs: Favorite bouldering area in the Lakes District?(02:12:29) – Whether V16 is a goal for Ned, how surprised he is to be climbing at his current level, and finding hard challenges regardless of the grade(02:17:12) – Flashing ‘Trust Issues’ V14 in Rocklands, and the flashing mindset(02:20:40) – Adding to the community through Beastmaker and writing the book Beastmaking, and a kid on the way!(02:23:58) – What's next for Beastmaker(02:25:19) – Where to buy the book (links in s

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, takeaways from critical and peak force testing with the Lattice Team, tips for breaking through plateaus on a hard project, how to enjoy a long life of climbing, and what it means to “cook tea” in England.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:26.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Original Episode:EP 68: Steve McClure

Dr. Favia Dubyk is a pathologist, cancer survivor, Ninja Warrior, cat lover, and badass boulderer. We talked about the connective tissue disorder that led her to specialize in lowball roof climbing, what it was like to go through cancer and chemotherapy, how she became one of the strongest people in the world at pull-ups, learning how to dyno, and her current V13 lowball roof project.Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, and Skyler MaxwellBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/favia-dubykNuggets:0:06:54 – Trying Matini Right, and recording beta on video0:11:50 – Identifying as a “Lowball Roof Boulderer”, and Favia’s connective tissue disorder (Ehlers-Danlos)0:15:55 – Discovering that she had Ehlers-Danlos0:17:52 – Having hip dislocations as a track athlete, and “pain is temporary but success is forever”0:19:36 – Physical Urticaria, getting hives from an ice bath as a runner, and why climbing is a better fit than running0:22:50 – Being ridiculed for being a hyper-specialist, and embracing being weird (alien)0:26:09 – Watching dance videos, and realizing that the most interesting adults were probably all “misfits” as kids0:28:26 – Feeling like an outsider, finding her people in high school, making clubs, and laminating0:31:58 – Mission Impossible and Chemo Brain0:34:46 – Hanging up her spikes and discovering climbing0:37:09 – Learning that sports come first, and using her time management skills as a climber0:41:03 – Starting her own Pathology Education clinic, and what Favia does as a Pathologist0:46:49 – Wanting to be a doctor as a kid, and being bribed by her mom to get worse grades0:49:31 – Have a 13cm mass in her chest, and getting diagnosed with Hodgkin's lymphoma0:51:08 – Running the 100m dash and being the fastest woman in Harvard’s history for 7 years0:52:23 – Getting sick with cancer, and having her “death day”0:57:44 – Taking life second by second, and getting chemo every two weeks1:01:27 – What made Favia feel better when she was sick1:04:41 – Feeling the lowest after treatment, and needing distance from people1:07:16 – Poor memory and carrying a camera around as a kid to remember things, her personality after cancer, and making the choice to recover1:11:40 – Feeling anger, channeling that into getting back in shape, and wanting to climb ‘Helicopter’1:13:44 – Learning how to be comfortable in the outdoors as an adult, and being kind to people who are new to the outdoors1:16:36 – Doing gymnastics as a kid, and being risk-averse1:18:12 – Favia’s climbing progression after cancer, and limitations from surgery and chemo1:20:28 – Weighted pullups, and measuring her one-arm pullups in cats1:25:28 – Natural upper body strength, lock-offs, and learning how to move dynamically1:30:05 – Working with Lattice Training, and some of the progressions in learning to dyno1:37:50 – Arnold Schwartzenager, Alex Johnson, and other climbing inspirations1:41:29 – Dominique Dawes, and wanting to inspire other black climbers1:47:41 – Hurting her back training for Ninja Warrior, the “power discs” (TENS Units), and why Favia uses them on her legs1:58:43 – Soylent (meal in a bottle)2:03:41 – A typical day of eating for Favia2:07:32 – Favia’s philosophy on diet and protein, and recovering from anemia by eating steak “rare plus”2:11:49 – Favia’s favorite foods2:15:00 – Favorite shows2:16:38 – Being married to a non-climber, and how to navigate vacations together2:20:37 – Working for Kinesio Tape, and doing more motivational speaking2:25:18 – Think about your jokes2:28:12 – Assuming other people are going through hard things, and giving people the benefit of the doubt2:33:00 – Living every day to the fullest, and what Favia’s dream life would look like if she turned out like Arnold Schwarzenegger2:38:34 – Being decisive, and never asking “what if”2:39:42 – What animal Favia would have in her house, and rescuing animals2:41:50 – Kids and trying IVF2:44:06 – Favia’s V13 project2:49:17 – Weighted pull-ups on hangboard edges2:50:03 – Favia’s current go-to strength and rehab exercises, and why front levers are “key”2:54:02 – Tips for training front levers2:55:52 – Wrap up, and parting advice for caretakers2:58:21 – “Climbing days for everyone!”

Jerry Moffatt is one of my all-time climbing heroes. He is a British legend and was arguably the best rock climber in the world during the mid to late 80s. We talked about his early days, wanting to be a “Crag Rat”, living for free before sponsorship, pushing world standards, writing his book on mental training, and what the top climbers have in common when it comes to their mental game.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10% off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, and Skyler Maxwell Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jerry-moffattNuggets:0:08:43 – Wanting to be a “crag rat”, and living off of white rice and curry mix0:13:32 – Reading Master or Rock, and climbing every day and bouldering in the evenings0:14:49 – Going to boarding school, and climbing on his parents' brick wall and on the limestone blocks at school0:16:57 – Using talcum powder as “chalk”, and climbing in massive mountaineering boots0:19:14 – No safety instruction0:20:23 – Looking up to Ron Faucet and Pete Livsey0:21:31 – The barn at Eric’s Cafe0:24:00 – Climbing at Tremadog, and learning proper ethics and reclimbing ‘Strawberries’0:27:11 – Climbing in France, and transitioning from yo-yoing to redpointing0:29:07 – Starting to get recognition for climbing, and Jerry’s first trip to the US to climb ‘Psycho’ and ‘Genesis’0:35:08 – A night of free drinks, and surviving off of happy hour food and free bagels0:36:55 – Onsighting ‘Supercrack’, and climbing ‘Psycho’ and ‘Genesis’0:38:36 – Meeting John Bachar, burning people off, and being a rock star0:42:12 – Running cross country and playing rugby, and ditching them for climbing0:43:42 – Some of the biggest milestones in the progression of climbing0:47:32 – Patron question from Chris: What do you see climbers doing today as far as training goes that you wish you had known about?0:50:46 – “You’ve gotta enjoy it”, and always changing things around0:53:30 – Living in a cave at Pentruin, and other dossing accommodations0:57:10 – Hitching to the crag0:59:39 – Climbing ‘Liquid Amber’1:01:17 – Elbow injuries, feeling like he’d never climbing again, and the beginning of climbing competitions1:05:58 – Stepping back from climbing to do other things, gaining financial independence apart from sponsors, traveling to surf, and building the first indoor climbing wall in the UK in 19911:12:01 – Writing Revelations with Neil Grimes, and being interested in sport psychology1:13:56 – Writing Mastermind, and interviewing the top climbers about their mental game1:16:55 – Narrowing your focus, process goals, and confidence1:21:05 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Does Jerry have any tips for maintaining a cool head and dealing with fear of failure when approaching a project?1:23:46 – Getting nervous for climbing competitions, learning to switch it on from Ron Kauk1:25:00 – The book that helped Jerry turn things around with competitions, changing his mindset, and being pessimistically optimistic1:28:55 – What sets the best climbers apart when it comes to their mindset1:31:25 – Using mindset work and visualization in work and everyday life1:32:45 – The recipe analogy1:34:10 – Winning Leads in 1989 (the first indoor climbing competition in Britain), and other favorite days of climbing1:36:38 – “If you are a climber you found a great sport.”1:38:01 – Backing off from being a “try hard”, and trying to be mellow and enjoy things1:39:50 – Breaking his neck surfing, and recovering1:41:48 – What Jerry is up to now, and where to get the book Mastermind1:45:18 – Wrap up1:31:18 – Backing off from being a “try hard”, and trying to be mellow and enjoy things1:33:07 – Breaking his neck surfing, and recovering1:35:05 – What Jerry is up to now, and where to get the book Mastermind1:38:35 – Wrap up

This is round 2 with John Sherman aka “The Verm”. We sat in the desert near Hueco Tanks and chatted over a few beers. We talked about ‘Wheatiesgate’ and the lost art of heckling, finding and developing areas before the internet, dealing with aging, photographing and studying birds, life lessons, injury stories, and John’s favorite beers.*I recommend listening to my first episode with Verm (EP 108) before this episode.Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, and Eli ConleeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/the-verm-returnsNuggets:0:06:39 – The Michael Salem catalog0:09:33 – West Texas in the early 80s0:17:02 – ‘Wheatiesgate’ and the lost art of heckling0:27:16 – Patron question from Eli: As bouldering has evolved, what has stayed the same?0:28:39 – Adventureland, and the experience of climbing boulders without names or stars or grades0:34:39 – Finding Ibex, UT, and discovering new areas before Google Earth0:41:40 – Patron question from Brandon: What advice would The Verm give to a new climber?0:48:09 – Aging, prostates, and swollen knuckles0:55:34 – Hangdogging, new-age tactics, and why John feels like Jason Kehl is a kindred spirit0:58:33 – What has surprised John about aging, and how baby birds poop1:02:09 – Cognitive decline, and other scary things that come with age1:06:32 – Taking his foot off the gas, getting out of shape, and calorie counting1:10:29 – Getting an amazing personal trainer, and fixing his elbow issues by fixing his shoulders1:17:52 – Patron question from Brandon: What got you into birding? And what about it got you hooked?1:24:27 – Patron question from Brandon: Has birding taught you any life lessons?1:42:27 – Injury stories and life lessons2:31:29 – Developing bouldering in Ibex, UT2:37:02 – A year in Verm’s life, and tick marks2:44:10 – Return of the harrier, and more bird facts2:52:10 – Favorite books and short stories2:57:59 – Verm’s memoir idea, favorite books, and sports3:07:50 – Climbing with Paul Robinson and Michaela Kiersch3:14:59 – The compression revolution, John Gill, slab dynoing, and the Hoover Maneuver3:23:59 – Patron question from Brandon: Top three beers? (and the De Garre story)3:38:20 – Patron question from Craig: What bird best represents your personality? (and duck penises)3:46:15 – Patron question from Craig: What bird would John Gill be?3:53:04 – The baboon story

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Josh Wharton. We talked about how his flash attempt went on ‘Freerider’ this past November, big wall tactics and Josh’s strategy, inventing the fix-and-follow system and why it’s a game-changer, and other considerations for people who want to attempt ‘Freerider’ or other big wall free climbs.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 44:56.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJosh's Original Episode:EP 90: Josh Wharton

Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16, how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/martin-kellerNuggets:0:08:13 – Martin’s “mini-epic” on ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/160:14:02 – Finding inspiration in a project0:17:55 – Martin’s first bouldering trip, and being a slow learner0:23:28 – Preferring really cool projects to just sending another random climb, and asking what people like most about climbing0:25:34 – Being able to jump up a grade when you find something that fits you0:28:13 – Turning something ugly into something gracefully, and turning the impossible into something possible0:35:03 – Do whatever resonates with you, and climbing lots of new things on trips0:38:13 – Why willpower isn’t enough, and making your brain like what you do0:41:28 – Your brain wants you to do easy things, and how to trick your unconscious into wanting to train0:46:00 – How to get rid of cognitive friction, and tricks to make your brain want to go training0:51:39 – How to use breathwork to ramp up the nervous system for training0:54:20 – Long term vs short term stress0:58:16 – Using light to upregulate the nervous system, and dimming lights before sleep1:02:23 – How body temperature affects sleep, and avoiding screen time in the evening1:03:59 – Food before bed, and including carbs with dinner to help with sleep1:06:15 – What Martin does on his project when the conditions are bad, how he “trains” on his projects, and setting mini-goals1:16:40 – The Russian mindset, why more isn’t always better, and the difference between us and the pros1:20:52 – Why active rest days are important, why you should get a dog, and why doing good things for your climbing is also good for your life1:26:13 – Opportunity costs, choosing priorities, and being flexible with your training1:29:04 – Martin’s strategy for hard power endurance boulders, and bringing the sections of the boulder down to 80% effort (or 8 RPE)1:36:13 – Martin’s latest project on the Highlander boulder1:37:41 – Key Takeaway: Ask yourself what you really like about climbing and bouldering, and being proud of yourself for building a life around climbing1:39:48 – Letting out the steam1:42:32 – Why collecting excuses (explanations) can be helpful1:45:13 – Martin’s story about berating himself on Ninja Skills Sit, and learning how to speak more kindly to yourself1:51:13 – The example of spilling water on your laptop, and talking to yourself like you would talk to a friend1:55:43 – Martin’s hamstring injury, sunk costs, and how irrational our brains actually are2:02:01 – Figuring out what is important for yourself, and magic bullets2:05:43 – Being the first one to bring a battery-powered van to the boulders2:07:23 – How changing his mindset has helped Martin climb all of his hardest boulders after age 402:13:13 – The benefits of cold showers, and connecting dopamine to actions2:20:16 – Patron question from Nicole: How does Martin deal with making negative progress on projects? When does he walk away?2:36:05 – The pressure we create for ourselves2:41:07 – How to connect with Martin2:43:18 – Final words

John Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what bouldering was like 30+ years ago, early climbing shoes, highballing before crash pads were invented, out-of-body experiences, and how some of the boulders got their provocative names.Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-shermanNuggets:0:08:00 – Recording in a cave in Hueco Tanks, and the Triple Crown of roof cracks0:12:54 – Experiencing what climbing was like 30 years ago, and early climbing shoes0:19:24 – What brought John to Hueco for the first time, falling in love with the bouldering there, and Mike Head0:27:30 – John Gill, the legitimization of bouldering, and four technological advances in gear that changed climbing forever (sticky rubber, cordless drill, crash pads, and cams)0:35:35 – What Hueco was like in the winter of 19820:39:42 – A day in the life back then, and making the first “crash pads”0:45:14 – Chalk, and why sport climbing was the end of climbing as Verm learned it0:47:47 – Using the same terminology to describe different ethics, and doing ‘See Spot Run’ ground up without crash pads0:55:03 – Geckskin0:57:15 – Historical tidbit (the Swiss guides)0:58:04 – More context about ‘See Spot Run’1:02:24 – Adding layers to the bouldering experience1:07:49 – The definition of “Kehl-geling”, and John’s out-of-body experience when climbing ‘The Thimble’1:20:00 – Why John wears two chalk bags when he climbs, and wanting to climb like Alex Sharp and Andy Parkin1:23:59 – Wearing a helmet bouldering, and John’s New Jersey story about hitting his head1:35:00 – Patron question from Aiden: What inspired you to write Stone Crusade?1:41:57 – The Fiesta XXX Drive-In, and getting boulder problem names from a sex toy magazine1:47:36 – How ‘Daily Dick Dose’ got its name, and living in the Quonset hut1:52:44 – How John got the name “Verm” (short for “Vermin”)1:53:46 – Patron question from Carmelo: Are we ever going to see Old Man Lightning?1:54:54 – Patron question from Craig: Which bird most represents your personality?1:56:32 – Why California Condors are John’s favorite birds, and individual personalities

Tim Emmett is a professional climber from the UK who practices everything from cutting edge ice climbing to deep water soloing to hard sport climbing. We talked about the gritstone scene in the UK, the “why” behind taking risk, climbing his hardest after age 40 and becoming a parent, training finger strength to try to climb ‘Era Vella’ 9a (5.14d), and passing on life philosophies to others.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tim-emmettNuggets:0:07:15 – Being a morning person as a parent0:10:33 – Coffee and morning rituals0:12:00 – Podcasting as an excuse to have amazing conversations0:17:29 – The Gritstone scene “back in the day”, living with Neil Gresham in Sheffield, and falling off of the ‘End of the Affair’ E80:22:50 – Tim explains the gritstone E grade system0:24:15 – Trying for the second ascent of ‘Meshuga’, and close calls on the grit0:35:43 – The “Why” behind grit climbing0:42:45 – The opportunity to do things you find easy, vs. things you find difficult or challenging, and how breakdowns lead to breakthroughs0:45:32 – Creativity, and why taking risk is an essential step in doing your best work0:47:10 – “People want to look good”, embracing vulnerability, and choosing the meaning we give to our lives0:51:10 – Letting go of being “right”0:52:54 – Switching to an “us” perspective, and asking questions rather than telling0:55:31 – The ego journey, and doing things that bring us into the moment1:04:40 – Trying ‘Era Vella’ 5.14d (9a), and Tim’s journey of discovery, and changing the word “failure” to “learning”1:09:47 – What Tim has changed to try to get higher on ‘Era Vella’, the magic of finger strength training, and the 10 dials1:12:15 – How Tim became a stronger climber after turning 40 and becoming a parent, and some of Tim’s inspirations in climbing1:20:46 – Being out in nature, Tim’s philosophy for staying stoked, and choosing to see the positive1:28:13 – “The magic formula is having strong fingers.”1:33:03 – How some specific training and some consistency can transform your climbing1:34:21 – Tim’s 4-month protocol for getting ready for ‘Era Vella’ (eating whole foods, cutting alcohol, running, etc.)1:41:51 – Recent injuries, and Tim’s progress on the hangboard1:48:39 – How Tim’s climbing fitness ebbs and flows, how he structures his 4-month lead up to a goal, and his specific strength training plan for ‘Era Vella’1:59:26 – How Tim and his friends would train for hard ice climbing in Helmken Falls2:01:00 – Core exercises, pushups, and antagonist training2:02:20 – Power endurance training, and how Tim trained power endurance for ‘Era Vella’ in his gym in Squamish using circuits2:07:23 – Combining hangboarding to failure with bouldering to simulate route climbing2:07:59 – Applying breathing techniques (hypoxic training) from freediving to sport climbing or high-altitude climbing2:11:33 – Cold-water swimming2:13:17 – Bringing breathing techniques from freediving into rock climbing and ice climbing, pressure breathing, and Wim Hof breathing techniques2:21:35 – What connects all of Tim’s different interests, collecting life experiences, and curiosity of human performance2:25:23 – Public speaking, inspiring kids to open up their lives, and giving them the tools to take on their dreams2:29:34 – Having an open mind, and Tim’s other life philosophies2:32:30 – Being friendly, and listening to people2:34:29 – Where to connect with Tim, and more about his coaching2:37:08 – “Life is what’s happening right now.”

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Tom Randall. We went deep into how to program your training as a self-coached climber. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. *This is one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded, for anyone who wants to improve at climbing. Seriously. Don’t skip this episode if you are interested in training.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:44:52.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTom's Original Episode:EP 74: Tom Randall

Hans Florine has held the speed record on ‘The Nose’ on El Capitan 8 separate times. He has climbed the route 112 times, with 100+ people. He loves ‘The Nose’ so much, he wrote a book about it. We talked about winning the first International Speed Climbing Championships in 1991, his earliest ascents of El Cap, top 3 big wall efficiency tips, and the value of doing hard things.Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hans-florineNuggets:0:05:29 – Why Hans uses “exacting time” to schedule things, and respecting other people’s time0:11:24 – Being a chameleon when traveling0:12:52 – 182 laps up El Cap, and 112 ascents on ‘The Nose’0:14:37 – Hans’ first speed climbing World Cups, and the first climbing World Championship in Frankfurt, Germany in 19910:24:34 – How European culture shaped Hans’ perception, and receiving international recognition for holding the speed record on ‘The Nose’0:27:55 – Patron question from Ana: What are Hans’ thoughts on the evolution of speed climbing competitions, and different formats?0:34:37 – Hans’ first trip up El Cap via the Salathe in 19860:41:09 – His first failed attempt on ‘The Nose’, and going for the speed record with Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider0:48:15 – Hans’ favorite Peter Croft story0:50:37 – A question from Craig DeMartino, and what it is about ‘The Nose’ that captivates Hans0:54:02 – Some failure stories on ‘The Nose’0:57:57 – How the Stove Legs got their name, and the haul cart with wheels1:02:05 – Wrapping up the story of the first speed record with Steve Schneider1:06:40 – Developing an obsession with the speed record on ‘The Nose’1:12:16 – Biggest logistical and tactical improvements in speed climbing ‘The Nose’1:19:04 – Writing the book on speed climbing, and going for the speed record with Alex Honnold1:25:51 – Patron question from Christoph: Top 3 tricks for being efficient on a big wall route?1:34:09 – The Tom Frost story, and how much water to bring on a big wall1:37:12 – Hans’ perspective on the current record on ‘The Nose’1:45:53 – How fast can The Nose be climbed?1:48:03 – Will Hans try for the speed record again?1:48:40 – Patron question from Henry: Has Hans’ attitude toward speed climbing changed after his accident? Does speed climbing become less sensible as one gets older?1:56:25 – A question from Hazel Findlay, and the award Hans would give her1:58:04 – Hans thoughts on free climbing El Cap, and an argument for climbing ‘The Nose’ “as free as can be”2:04:49 – Hans’ time focused on onsighting in the 80s and 90s2:08:55 – 8a.nu and plans for his time in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky2:11:15 – Takeaways from climbing ‘The Nose’ with more than 100 different people2:13:22 – Who has affected Hans most in his climbing2:16:27 – A message from Craig DeMartino2:17:50 – Patron question from Craig: Who is your greatest non-climbing influence and why?2:19:31 – Ryan Reynolds2:20:14 – Doing hard things, and the DHT Challenge2:22:41 – Applying manufacturing experiences to climbing2:24:34 – How Hans is making a living now with construction2:26:31 – How to connect with Hans, and more about the DHT Challenge2:31:17 – What Hans is excited about right now2:32:20 – What is next for Hans Florine

Brent Barghahn has rope soloed ‘The Nose’ in a day, freed multiple routes on El Cap, and is a former engineer at Black Diamond. We talked about how Brent combined van life and “house hacking” to effectively retire at 28-years-old, about motocross and extreme unicycling, cutting his teeth on hard trad routes in LCC, and his setup for redpoint rope soloing.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brent-barghahnNuggets:0:05:41 – Living in the BD parking lot, using van life as a way to save money, and a snapshot of Brent’s life 2.5 years ago0:09:40 – My (Steven’s) stint living in a van in my employer’s parking lot0:10:59 – Brent’s urban van life tips, stealth camping, and choosing van life as a financial tool0:16:27 – Two different van life ethos0:17:16 – What Brent’s life looks like now, house hacking, and how Brent “retired” at 28-years-old0:35:21 – Extreme Unicycling, welding, and his charge account at the local hardware store0:43:37 – Motocross, and similarities between action sports and trad climbing0:46:01 – How dangerous climbing stacks up to motocross, and rope soloing The Nose in a day0:49:04 – Getting hurt every year, quitting motocross, and discovering climbing0:51:58 – How Brent improved so quickly in climbing, and why he loves technical granite climbing0:57:38 – Patron question from Christoph: How do you train for hard trad climbing specifically?0:58:50 – Patron question from Christoph: How does his preparation for hard trad redpoints differ from sport?1:00:11 – Finishing climbs after a failed flash/onsight attempt1:01:08 – Brent’s formative years trad climbing in LCC1:05:48 – Why Brent chooses rope solo free climbing for some of his ascents, and his first rope solo NIAD (Nose in a day)1:13:27 – Brent’s rope solo free climbing setup, and freeing ‘Father Time’ on Middle Cathedral via rope solo1:23:31 – Brent’s take on big wall free climbing ethics, groud up ascents, his stance to stance philosophy, and the “Affect Minimal Parties” ethos1:33:39 – Brent’s biggest aspirations in the Valley1:34:46 – Brent’s go-to shoes for technical granite, and how he is training for ‘Magic Line’1:42:24 – Choosing Flagstaff as a home base1:45:15 – How Brent decides when to go on trips vs. stay local, and finding meaningful “work” now that he is “retired”1:49:21 – Brent’s blog and other sedentary rest day activities1:54:22 – What’s next

Amity Warme is one of the most badass trad climbers you’ve never heard of. She also has a master's in nutrition. We talked about her incredible season in Yosemite including ground-up free ascents of ‘Freerider’ and ‘Golden Gate’, the importance of logistics in big wall free climbing, what she learned growing up in gymnastics, training plans, and eating more to do more.Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amity-warmeNuggets:0:06:14 – Winter weather in the PNW0:11:19 – My first impression of Amity, and her Yosemite season tick list0:13:11 – How to get good climbing photos (of yourself)0:18:05 – The prerequisite skills required to have a successful season free climbing in Yosemite, and being willing to suffer0:22:27 – Some of Amity’s background in climbing before showing up to Yosemite0:25:33 – Meeting Hans Florine, deciding to go to Yosemite, and a surprise ground-up free ascent of ‘Freerider’0:30:00 – Sending ‘Golden Gate’ ground up0:31:56 – Learning how to haul on the side of Will’s van0:33:44 – Patron question from Cody: What is the best way to acquire the hard skills of multi-pitch and big wall climbing?0:34:55 – “It’s always worth being willing to go for it”, and redefining what success is to you0:36:49 – How to care a lot about something while being detached from the outcome0:38:03 – The importance of technical climbing vs. logistical skills when it comes to big wall free climbing0:41:42 – What Amity taught Tyler about free climbing efficiency up on ‘Golden Gate’, and what she learned from Tyler about logistics, rope systems, and living on the wall0:45:53 – Patron question from Nolan: Where does Amity’s ground-up ethic come from?0:49:04 – Patron question from Rob: How do you prepare for a ground-up ascent?0:51:02 – Patron question from Savva about what it was like climbing ‘Golden Gate’, and Amity’s first time climbing the Monster Offwidth0:57:10 – How Amity plans to prepare for her next Yosemite season, and planning to train for the first time1:01:07 – Amity’s background in gymnastics, and sending a 5.10 her very first time climbing1:07:36 – Climbing as a lifetime sport1:10:52 – Residual injuries from gymnastics1:13:46 – Patron questions from Martin and Ainsley: What from gymnastics has served you most in climbing?1:15:33 – Oppositional exercises from gymnastics that Amity still does, and doing ring exercises on the road1:17:11 – Amity’s weaknesses and plans for training this winter1:22:05 – Rest nights vs. rest days, and getting energy out vs. recovering to try a hard project1:25:18 – Studying nutrition and helping climbers eat more to support their climbing1:28:32 – The prevalence of under-fueling in climbers, and eating more without gaining weight1:33:29 – The complexity of the energy-in-energy-out equation, and why losing weight is a bad long-term strategy1:37:48 – Thoughts on protein amounts, timing, and sources, targeting carbohydrates around activity, and eating a variety of different foods1:42:46 – Replacing weight goal with performance goals1:45:19 – My experience with elevated blood sugar from a food sensitivity1:50:07 – How to connect with Amity, and her vision for future work and nutrition coaching1:51:51 – Patron question from Rob: How does Amity plan her nutrition for big wall projects?1:57:07 – Amity’s next climbing goal, and the next step in her registered dietitian journey1:59:36 – What inspires Amity2:03:09 – How Amity hopes to empower others2:07:26 – Wrap up