The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.How You Can Help:https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherdNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues(00:18:36) – Formative experiences(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles(01:20:00) – How we can help(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoechea, Sol’s cancer diagnosis in 2020, the long and difficult road to recovery, how e-biking saved his life, sailing, why life feels richer now that he doesn’t climb, and nuggets to help your own health journey.Feel free to message Sol on Instagram if you have any questions about cancer diagnosis or long covid. AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from RúngneUse code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sol-wertkinNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – How I met Sol(00:03:56) – Depression & climbing roots(00:09:02) – New routing in the PNW(00:12:02) – The “Golden Era” in Leavenworth(00:23:37) – Johnny Goicoechea(00:28:37) – Training & sport climbing(00:31:27) – Smith Rock & Spain(00:35:40) – Getting diagnosed with cancer(00:49:07) – Lifetimes, surgery 1, & do the things(00:54:43) – Short of breath(00:59:12) – Systematic diaphragm paralysis, & surgery 2(01:03:33) – E-bikes(01:10:20) – Diaphragm plication(01:21:54) – Chylothorax(01:25:15) – The early stages of dying(01:28:39) – Surgery 3(01:32:31) – Planning for the worst, & getting discharged(01:36:40) – Bonus life(01:41:55) – A final hurdle(01:52:32) – Every day is a gift(01:54:14) – Sailing(02:01:06) – Replacing climbing(02:08:48) – Goals(02:13:59) – E-biking & ableism(02:19:07) – Why Sol doesn’t climb anymore(02:22:33) – A richer life after climbing(02:29:58) – Trail clearing & volunteering(02:34:38) – What’s next(02:37:44) – Healthcare & nursing(02:40:46) – Sol’s nuggets(03:06:19) – Let’s go!

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more.Buy Stian's Book:adventurebooks.com/collections/climbing-books-guidebooks/products/the-climbing-bible-managing-injuriesRúngne:rungne.info/nugget👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from RúngneUse code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-christophersen-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:09) – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious(00:07:40) – Practicing board climbing(00:11:55) – Outline of topics(00:15:18) – Most common climbing injuries(00:18:13) – Rules for preventing injuries(00:20:39) – How much hard climbing is reasonable(00:29:13) – Lifting weights(00:31:04) – The Japanese approach(00:43:43) – Finger training to prevent finger injuries(00:52:05) – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols?(00:56:01) – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries(00:59:25) – When to do extra strength training(01:01:47) – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity(01:06:45) – Regaining confidence after injury(01:09:45) – Optimism & discovery(01:20:42) – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries?(01:25:52) – How to rehab pulley injuries(01:35:14) – Loading & adapting from within(01:43:50) – The good news with pulley injuries(01:45:59) – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries?(01:48:20) – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury(01:51:20) – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing(01:53:59) – Preparing for tweaky holds(02:01:08) – Individual finger training(02:05:57) – Training for hard shoulder moves(02:07:20) – Growth plate injuries(02:10:58) – Injections for finger pain(02:13:20) – Mindset tips(02:16:06) – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent(02:20:49) – Where to buy Stian’s new book

Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino’s meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:34) – Themes for the today’s podcast(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle’(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume(00:41:08) – Tree crimping(00:43:50) – Almost daily training(00:49:08) – The basics(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game(01:24:43) – Finger training(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude’ V14)(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks(02:02:56) – Daydreaming(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail(02:13:27) – One thing at a time(02:17:19) – Writing books(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody’ E11(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict(02:42:06) – Dave’s experiment with a Western Diet(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research(03:54:50) Where to buy Dave’s book

This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/best-of-2024Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:05) – EP 200: Brook Rabouotou (Patreon EXTRA)(00:14:29) – EP 201: James Pearson(00:32:30) – EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns(00:43:58) – EP 214: Neely Quinn Returns(00:50:30) – EP 216: Maddy Cope(00:54:30) – EP 221: Keenan Takahashi (Patreon EXTRA)(01:02:20) – EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns(01:19:24) – EP 229: Shauna Coxsey(01:26:26) – EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest(01:35:08) – EP 240: Alex Megos(01:45:18) – EP 242: Molly Beard(01:53:02) – EP 249: Chris Sharma (Patreon EXTRA)(02:01:32) – EP 250: Beth Rodden(02:12:12) – EP 252: Justin Salas

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addiction, finding climbing, her Instagram career, health issues and adrenal fatigue, her experiment with the carnivore diet, responsible meat eating, chocolate cake, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/april-davidsonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:22) – Living with a blind man(00:07:33) – Why they quit vanlife(00:10:04) – Building out their van(00:21:02) – Settling in Vegas(00:23:44) – April’s relationship with climbing(00:26:18) – Growing up & moving a lot(00:31:44) – Moving to LA(00:33:40) – 30s(00:40:00) – Loss & addiction(00:49:06) – An abusive relationship(00:52:01) – Finding climbing(00:54:34) – Breaking free(00:58:56) – Dissociation & wasted time(01:02:13) – Support & accountability(01:05:21) – Her Instagram career(01:12:57) – Photography & video(01:16:15) – Going with the flow(01:17:57) – Weddings & elopements(01:21:10) – Health issues & adrenal fatigue(01:28:56) – The carnivore diet(01:35:25) – Getting strong(01:40:00) – Gut health & her current diet(01:43:52) – Vegan & vegetarian diets(01:50:52) – Responsible meat eating(01:55:08) – Quitting caffeine(01:56:37) – Food tracking(01:59:39) – Cake(02:00:28) – Rapid fire questions(02:04:18) – Narrating life to Justin(02:07:30) – Ultimate trust(02:08:34) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salasNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries(00:05:26) – Vanlife(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience(00:15:35) – An invisible disability(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”(00:27:55) – Faces(00:30:45) – Losing his vision(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms(00:48:36) – Assistive technology(00:54:34) – How he climbs(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing(01:10:59) – Sight guides(01:22:34) – Footholds(01:25:29) – Stamina training(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics(01:33:14) – Getting inspired(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em(01:37:32) – Assessing landings(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching(01:45:04) – Toothpaste(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes(01:51:42) – Asking for help(01:57:54) – April(02:05:47) – Building out a van(02:10:09) – Vegas(02:12:56) – Nature is healing(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions(02:39:39) – Blind visualization(02:46:48) – Building a mental map(02:50:11) – Changemaker(02:54:40) – Faith(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Green Chef:greenchef.com/NUGGET50Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jeromeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:12) – Hit & run(00:04:42) – The recovery process(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project(00:13:23) – A really fun game(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude(01:37:45) – More about The New(01:46:09) – Life going forward(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA(02:03:19) – Building a database(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-roddenNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:54) – Injuries(00:03:28) – Writing her book(00:08:14) – Excavating memories(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy(00:13:59) – Living in fear(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy(00:27:06) – Putting the book together(00:28:29) – A shared experience(00:37:45) – Being honest(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy’s book(00:47:39) – Facing backlash(00:56:11) – Reductionism(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career(01:10:48) – Magic Line(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs(01:44:28) – The next level down(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth’s book(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharmaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down(00:10:32) – Knee injury(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura(00:20:07) – New challenges(00:27:32) – Chapters(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start(00:52:32) – Should or should not(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season(01:27:21) – Santa Linya(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again(01:40:17) – Paris 2028(01:46:32) – Embracing competition(01:50:00) – The next generation(01:54:12) – The media churn(01:57:22) – JB Tribout’s advice(02:00:22) – “It’s cool to do hard shit. ”(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids(02:12:32) – Ferrari(02:16:16) – Magic(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huberNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:25) – Many valleys(00:04:53) – Hunting(00:14:39) – Staying young(00:16:29) – Thomas’ recent trip to Choktoi(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis’ relationship with climbing(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday(01:01:17) – Beer break(01:02:37) – Early training(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s(01:20:55) – 9a & beer(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys(01:54:00) – Patagonia(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive(02:06:24) – Freiheit

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!Sign the Petition:Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)More Links:stgeorgeclimberscoalition.orgShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen(00:02:16) – Intro(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water(00:04:33) – What’s going on with Moe’s Valley(00:10:24) – Todd’s early days in Moe’s(00:13:30) – Moe’s has it’s place(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings(00:17:46) – Fundraising(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd(00:27:56) – Striking a balance(00:30:58) – Todd’s health & climbing(00:33:00) – Top secret information(00:34:02) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus(00:03:50) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Think long-term(00:08:10) – Steven’s Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it(00:10:51) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades(00:14:17) – Steven’s Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up(00:17:29) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades(00:28:34) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do more of what you haven’t been doing(00:33:24) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up(00:38:12) – Steven’s Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions(00:44:12) – Creative home walls(00:45:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you’ve been doing(00:45:49) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overtraining(00:50:32) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people’s agendas(01:00:46) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through(01:09:21) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often(01:12:43) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: You’re not actually plateaued, you’ve just built a tower(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids(01:19:48) – That’s a wrap on season 2!

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steel man case for Kamala and Trump, and much more.Join Kaizen’s Courage Collective:skool.com/courageShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kaizen-asieduNuggets:(00:00:00) – Kaizen's Emmy(00:04:22) – My political background, the health crisis, & RKF Jr(00:11:01) – My algorithm breaking & discovering Kaizen(00:12:46) – What Kaizen does(00:14:32) – Kaizen’s political journey(00:21:13) – Kaizen’s awakening(00:28:35) – Becoming a life coach(00:31:51) – The media, our legal system, & Trump(00:39:15) – How the media portrays RFK Jr, & the “white supremacists are very fine people” narrative(00:43:16) – Kaizen’s experience talking about Trump(00:46:25) – Nuance & the power of being truthful(00:51:13) – Media bias, the influence of advertising, & polarized perceptions(00:56:12) – Incentives drive everything(00:57:14) – Tulsi Gabbard, Joe Biden’s cognitive decline, & and the DNC appointing Kamala Harris(01:02:09) – Kaizen’s political journey continued(01:10:12) – Priorities(01:12:00) – What is America?(01:14:15) – What does a “great” America actually look like?(01:20:57) – Government corruption, Hunter Biden’s laptop, censorship, & free speech(01:29:48) – Why this election is bigger than Trump vs. Harris(01:32:35) – Why I feel frustrated with US politics(01:35:34) – My health journey & why I care about the health crisis(01:40:52) – The sick care system & our food system(01:42:13) – Monsanto, GMO crops, Roundup, glyphosate, Bayer, & cancer lawsuits(01:47:47) – How much we spend managing chronic disease(01:50:40) – Sense vs. dollars(01:53:32) – The health crisis is fundamental(01:59:34) – Ripple effects(02:01:47) – Pharma & conflicts of interest(02:02:30) – Voting with our dollars(02:07:57) – Taking responsibility(02:09:15) – Synergistic effects(02:10:24) – Abortion, racism, & what happens if Trump wins(02:23:59) – Inviting curiosity & losing perspective(02:27:24) – Steel man argument for Kamala Harris(02:32:25) – Mass deportation(02:37:48) – Steel man argument for Trump(02:41:34) – January 6th(02:44:17) – Mail-in ballots & voter ID(02:48:26) – My final thoughts(02:50:41) – Kaizen’s final thoughts & The Courage Collective

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF(00:25:45) – Representing South America(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)(00:28:33) – Goal oriented(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training(00:54:29) – When to specialize(00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:17:15.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMartin's Original Episode:EP 143: Matt HeyligerWork With Matt:www.sendagain.coNuggets:(00:00:00) – Banter with Matt(00:03:47) – Overview of my finger injury(00:06:42) – What I should have done(00:17:44) – Remodeling & density hangs(00:23:12) – The injury timeline(00:25:00) – When to push it & thoughts on taping(00:27:40) – Recap of our first PT session (not recorded)(00:29:49) – Maintaining strength & avoiding barbells(00:33:56) – 4x loading per day (6 reps of 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off)(00:37:37) – BFR(00:40:02) – Finger pain threshold testing(00:46:27) – How I felt after finger testing(00:47:40) – Planning out my climbing(00:53:00) – Palpation & massage(00:57:04) – Acupressure rings(00:58:30) – The next phase of loading(01:05:52) – Too many moves in a session(01:07:34) – How to climb around a minor pulley injury(01:09:41) – Tetris(01:11:00) – Testing with tape(01:12:11) – Plans for the coming week

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsRevival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-5Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:19) – Injuries we thought we wouldn’t come back from(00:05:02) – Caveats, & the inevitability of injury(00:09:19) – Jesse’s Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible(00:11:07) – Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future(00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Know that it’s going to be ok(00:16:04) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume(00:19:07) – Steven’s Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up(00:27:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing(00:31:19) – My best onsight season ever(00:35:07) – Steven’s Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)(00:38:41) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Protect your identity(00:43:16) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to(00:46:59) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn’t understand your sport/identity(00:52:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly(00:57:28) – More finger rehab tips(00:58:53) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)(01:07:18) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury(01:09:54) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)(01:14:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process(01:15:27) – Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.(01:15:42) – Wrap up

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Ocelot Grips:ocelotgrips.com/nuggetUse code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Green Chef:greenchef.com/nugget50Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beardNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:34) – The Murder Room(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago(00:10:02) – Molly’s background(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s(00:14:45) – The language of movement(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes(00:34:36) – The power of climbing(00:35:49) – Getting her L5(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends(01:00:54) – Coordination(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter(01:12:10) – A tide shift(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing(01:24:49) – Finding separation(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?(01:52:14) – Splitting the field(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-4Nuggets:(00:00:00) – The NUG(00:01:19) – Two things that have improved Jesse’s finger strength(00:04:12) – Using climbing to gain finger strength(00:07:53) – Overview(00:09:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Do something simple enough that you can be consistent with it, and do it for a very long time(00:11:02) – Examples of simple consistency(00:13:48) – Climbing on a board(00:18:14) – Jesse’s Tip #1: You probably don’t need much finger training(00:19:37) – Maintaining finger strength on a trip(00:21:50) – Steven’s Tip #2: Use big edges to get strong and use small edges to apply that strength to the rock(00:31:28) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the adaptations from different styles of training(00:37:41) – Owning the hold(00:38:43) – Finger curls/active flexion(00:42:53) – Building forearm capacity and endurance(00:44:08) – Rate of force development(00:46:12) – Wall crawls/crimp crawls/low gear(00:48:33) – Steven’s Tip #3: Own the hold(00:53:32) – RPE and 10-second hangs(00:56:32) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Practice grips on the wall(01:01:28) – Steven’s Tip #4: Train a variety of grip types(01:11:54) – Bonus Tip: The Ladder Program(01:14:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Training too heavy(01:17:20) – Genetric freaks and the 200 lb goal(01:18:25) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not considering how you climb when you train your fingers (i.e. Your finger training should be specific to you)(01:22:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Doing your finger training when you’re tired(01:24:38) – Watching Tyler Nelson one-arm hang a 15mm edge when tired(01:27:53) – Rate of Force test(01:29:28) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Switching protocols too often(01:30:30) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Too much “perfect” edge training(01:34:44) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Stressing out about which protocol is “the best”(01:36:30) – “It takes years”(01:38:18) – Bonus Tip: N=1(01:39:55) – Wrap up

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megosNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a’s(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects(00:14:45) – Bibliographie(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to(00:21:08) – The America Tour(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change(00:45:51) – Leg pump(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption(01:07:51) – Olympics(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions(01:12:51) – The board master(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering(01:16:00) – Wrap up

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-3Nuggets:(00:00:00) – The NUG(00:01:21) – Why Jesse lifts weights(00:04:43) – Why I lift weights(00:06:19) – The safety of weightlifting(00:07:03) – Low-hanging fruit(00:08:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Learn the basics (the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, and a basic understanding of anatomy)(00:12:36) – How I use RPE, & a big mistake I made early on in my lifting(00:13:16) – Other forms of RPE(00:16:11) – A study on reps in reserve (RIR) lifting(00:16:50) – A basic understanding of anatomy (ExRx.net)(00:18:20) – Steven’s Tip #1: Train like an athlete in another sport, not like a weight lifter(00:18:54) – The Big 4 (push, pull, hinge, squat), & an example program(00:21:56) – The 10 Rep Rule(00:25:13) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Learn how to modify your training(00:35:47) – How to progress primary & accessory exercises(00:37:26) – Why you should start with a compound exercise(00:38:25) – Steven’s Tip #2: It’s ok to focus on the bare essentials(00:40:43) – Way too much pulling training(00:41:30) – Step #1 for new lifters(00:44:07) – Drew Ruana bench press example(00:45:42) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Load is more important to pay attention to than form(00:47:30) – Steven’s Tip #3: Get specific strategically, and only after you build a base(00:49:42) – Jesse’s Tip #4: You may need to reduce your climbing volume to adapt to your weight training(00:55:52) – Bonus Tip: Learn about hardstyle training(00:58:27) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing either too much or too little(01:01:14) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Going ham(01:01:14) – Bonus Pitfall: Not taking advantage of weight lifting when you’re young(01:07:12) – You don’t have to go to level ten(01:08:17) – Overall training load(01:09:09) – A little bit is still beneficial(01:11:04) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not going heavy enough(01:15:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too specific, too special, or too fancy(01:18:42) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not eating enough protein(01:22:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not learning how to use autoregulation in some fashion(01:26:02) – Bonus Pitfall: Forcing it(01:27:57) – Nurturing your practice with weight training(01:29:26) – Avoid boot camp training(01:31:46) – Wrap up

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers, and more.Watch Girls Gone Hueco:girlsgonehueco.vhx.tvKAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Shoutout to KAYA for supporting Girls Gone Hueco!Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/girls-gone-huecoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:38) – Midori’s background(00:09:08) – Long’s background(00:13:26) – What Long learned making Girls Gone Hueco(00:15:41) – What surprised Midori about the experience(00:17:32) – Why Midori wanted to make the film(00:20:30) – Forming the girl gang(00:24:36) – How Long got involved with this film(00:28:36) – Making the film(00:37:48) – What they wish they had known(00:40:10) – Hidden costs of making a film(00:48:08) – Carving out the time to make a film(00:50:57) – Trash can shower(00:55:39) – Amanda’s pad-less send(01:00:36) – Will there be a Girls Gone Hueco 2?(01:01:35) – Takeaways(01:06:11) – Where to watch the film(01:06:45) – Advice for aspiring filmmakers(01:10:03) – Imposter syndrome(01:15:15) – Don’t be afraid to try(01:16:45) – V11 in legit(01:18:03) – Shoutout to Julie Ellison(01:20:45) – Congratulations

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking(00:11:28) – Limiting factors(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting(00:19:19) – Specializing(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength(00:21:18) – More on specialization(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols(00:53:35) – When to progress weight(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong(01:05:29) – Repeaters(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan(01:35:12) – More about repeaters(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:20) – Best spray walls(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle(00:10:07) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)(00:13:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression(00:24:52) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting(00:27:59) – Steven’s Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)(00:33:17) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall(00:35:52) – Steven’s Tip #3: Circuits!(00:40:13) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: Set foot moves(00:49:23) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions(00:52:08) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level(00:54:33) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions(00:55:51) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes(00:59:42) – Steven’s Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds(01:02:03) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut VideosBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-frugeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave(00:04:05) – Overview(00:05:31) – Amy’s martial arts background(00:10:21) – Confidence(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing(00:22:24) – How Amy’s athletic background informs her work with climbers(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues(01:01:15) – Finding a provider(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy(01:10:23) – Pain is protective(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences(01:29:26) – Another client success story(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog(01:54:42) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app.Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience(00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power(00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)(00:11:39) – Example board session formats(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session(00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)(00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules(00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard(00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)(00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2(00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously(00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants(00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast(00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing(00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength(01:00:38) – Wrap up

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into several important aspects of training, injury recovery, and how to break plateaus. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon.Listen to Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electric” boulder, why speed was so great to watch, heartbreaking results, men’s and women’s combined finals, who we are most excited to see bring their Olympic fitness to the rocks, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/olympic-reactionsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – How we watched the Olympics(00:08:57) – Overall reaction(00:10:58) – Power, Electric, Slab, & Coordination(00:13:59) – Men’s final boulder 1(00:16:39) – Surprises from the men’s semifinal(00:19:25) – Adam Ondra & Jakob Schubert(00:23:11) – The unknown format for LA(00:26:10) – Olympic rules & limitations(00:27:55) – Niche Olympic sports & pride for climbing(00:30:28) – Speed recap(00:35:40) – Heartbreak(00:43:25) – Colin Duffy(00:45:58) – Jakob’s point deduction in bouldering(00:47:12) – Men’s final boulder 3(00:50:31) – Toby Roberts & Sorato Anraku(00:53:03) – What Toby’s gold means for the GB Team(00:55:41) – Colin on men’s final boulder 4(00:58:45) – Surprises from the women’s semifinal(01:04:07) – The OQS series & the effects of qualifying at different times(01:07:16) – Brooke Raboutou(01:11:11) – Janja Garnbret(01:19:36) – Climbers are wonderful(01:28:24) – Women’s top 3(01:29:24) – Will climbing grow after the Olympics?(01:32:39) – Which Olympians we are excited to see climb outdoors(01:41:14) – The skills of outdoor climbing(01:51:03) – Camera angles & World Cup challenges(01:53:29) – Will Allison compete again?(01:54:39) – Wrap up

Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, dealing with public criticism, working on her mindset, how to win without being the strongest person competing, hard outdoor sends and goals, her happiest moments, her top training advice, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 232: Natalia Grossman — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Green Chef:greenchef.com/nuggetclassUse code "nuggetclass" for 50% off your first box + 50 FREE Credits with ClassPass.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalia-grossmanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:46) – Natalia’s parents(00:03:08) – Spending summers in Mexico & speaking Spanish(00:08:10) – Discovering climbing(00:11:25) – Her breakout year in 2021 & dealing with public criticism(00:16:44) – Facing pressure in 2022(00:19:58) – The hardest year(00:22:36) – Health challenges & learning to listen to her body(00:26:42) – Learning & hobbies(00:28:46) – Studying psychology(00:31:04) – Finding balance(00:37:10) – “It’s not always the strongest person who wins.”(00:38:15) – What does it take to win?(00:39:51) – Setters’ influence on comps(00:42:08) – Natalia’s leadup to the Olympics(00:45:12) – Smile & Fight(00:50:45) – Don’t be ashamed to ask for help(00:53:48) – Hard outdoor sends(00:58:49) – Projecting & outdoor goals(01:01:54) – Freezing(01:06:17) – Why Natalia doesn’t like rituals(01:08:11) – Competition underwear(01:09:26) – Rapid fire questions(01:11:42) – Gymnastics culture(01:13:24) – More rapid-fire questions(01:18:22) – Her happiest moment(01:21:41) – Deep convos, training advice, & following psych(01:25:22) – Wrap up & EXTRA for Patrons

Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/colin-duffyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:25) – Puzzles & applied math(00:06:32) – Mom & dad(00:07:29) – Early comps & Team ABC(00:11:22) – Tokyo Olympics(00:17:15) – Strategy & scoring(00:20:00) – The format for Paris(00:25:00) – The World Championships in Switzerland(00:28:05) – Youth comps(00:30:41) – Clutch mentality(00:33:28) – Keeping sport & life separate(00:35:53) – Gap semester & training in Europe(00:41:24) – 360 Paddle Dyno(00:43:52) – Coordination(00:49:13) – Lead training(00:52:22) – Comp grades(00:57:12) – Comp boulders that haunt him(01:01:02) – Learning how to lose(01:04:58) – His first open comp(01:08:06) – Putting on muscle(01:16:18) – Letting off steam(01:18:31) – The Grand Hustle V13(01:20:24) – Bookkeeping V16(01:22:22) – Outdoor goals(01:30:47) – Rapid fire questions(01:47:45) – Wrap up

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-huntNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:50) – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit(00:09:28) – Beta changes(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top(00:13:10) – Speed nerds(00:16:19) – A rock climber first(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training(00:31:56) – Her coaches(00:35:06) – Speed shoes(00:44:59) – Other sports(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals(00:51:36) – Speed mental game(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides(01:00:39) – Strategy(01:05:01) – Riding waves(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed(01:42:30) – Emma’s fastest time & goals(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions(02:07:51) – Speed is cool

Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxseyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:30) – Frankie(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions(00:15:09) – Parenting(00:20:15) – Support network(00:22:06) – Shauna’s upbringing(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing(00:31:16) – Human nature(00:34:22) – Her first big competition(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids(00:47:54) – Frankie’s Nany, Arona(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips(01:24:02) – Commentating(01:28:17) – Tokyo(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom(01:41:10) – The magic of being here(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?(01:47:38) – Wrap up

Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!Flex Master Discount:Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-toolsWatch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadleyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – CARCing(00:10:38) – Unstructured training(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments(00:32:14) – Abduction(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility(01:39:58) – Calve stretching(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers(01:52:24) – Reducing friction(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch(02:04:41) – Breathing(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting(02:27:49) – Wrap up

How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more!Use Code ‘NUGGET’ for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nature-climbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:08) – Banter(00:05:02) – My first experience with Nature holds(00:08:13) – Glass blowing & Nature’s origin story(00:10:56) – Early holds(00:12:28) – Mads’ climbing background(00:16:28) – Pawel’s marketing background(00:25:32) – How Mads & Pawel connected(00:27:15) – Mads’ dream(00:28:32) – Pawel’s career pivot(00:37:06) – Fixing the basics(00:43:51) – Scaling a handcrafted business(00:52:23) – Sustainability & respect(00:55:51) – Buying holds(00:58:33) – Who Nature is for(01:06:53) – Developing new products(01:09:27) – The Nature Circuit(01:10:48) – World Cup routes(01:12:43) – Their vision for Nature(01:17:56) – Their dream lifestyles(01:23:00) – Proudest of(01:28:42) – Elevator pitch(01:29:54) – Training on granite(01:33:39) – Discount code

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjongNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence(00:26:22) – Our three batteries(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop(01:11:44) – Structuring practice(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment(01:21:00) – Three questions(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique(01:35:47) – Sending things faster(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats(01:50:43) – Board climbers(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition. The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their products apart, the biggest surprises they faced, sustainability challenges, future products and innovations, and more! Revival’s Adjustable Climbing Walls:revivalclimbing.com/adjustable-climbing-wallRevival’s Landing Systems:revivalclimbing.com/custom-matsrevivalclimbing.com/standard-matsShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/revival-climbing-coalitionNuggets:00:00:00 – Intro00:01:45 – Breakfast banter00:04:06 – David’s background00:09:06 – Mount Moran00:13:09 – Tony’s background00:16:24 – Getting into the climbing wall industry00:21:09 – The birth of Revival Climbing Coalition00:25:00 – What sets Revival apart00:33:01 – The cost of the wall00:36:45 – The board00:39:10 – Turkeys00:40:25 – Bootstrapping and outsourcing00:45:12 – Biggest surprises00:47:37 – What sets their board apart00:52:49 – Engineered lumber00:56:38 – Sustainability01:00:36 – Ease of installation01:02:38 – Gym partners and shipping01:04:40 – The future of Revival01:08:45 – More about landing systems01:09:50 – What’s next for Revival01:13:31 – Wrap up

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecovaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all(00:18:08) – A natural talent(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends(00:30:04) – Sharing successes(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity(00:58:22) – Working with her coach(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength(01:08:09) – How her training has changed(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects(01:35:18) – Self-belief(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement(01:48:51) – Best decision(01:53:17) – Bug snacks(01:56:00) – Happiest moment(01:58:58) – Silver linings(02:03:11) – Proudest of(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:11:27) – Wrap up

Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17.We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing.Watch the Video Interview:EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:59) – Recooperation phase(00:08:18) – Powering through(00:10:24) – Course corrections(00:13:58) – Climbing as his work(00:21:45) – Enduring austerity(00:24:17) – His role as a pro climber(00:29:28) – Our relationships with climbing(00:35:54) – Navigating pro climbing(00:45:44) – Valuing integrity(00:49:11) – Climbing media & being impressionable(00:52:51) – Reflecting on experiences(01:04:23) – Aidan’s last year and a half(01:08:54) – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds)(01:33:30) – Trying Burden last Fall(01:41:47) – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou(01:46:41) – Back to The Midnight Project(01:50:28) – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time)(02:03:39) – Training in the UK last winter(02:07:03) – Sending Spots of Time(02:08:18) – Sending Arrival of the Birds(02:30:31) – Glimpsing mastery(02:33:33) – Appreciating the places we climb(02:38:06) – Proposing grades(02:52:01) – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+?(03:08:35) – Exhausted & reexamining eating(03:12:42) – His foot injury & next climbing steps(03:14:23) – Plans for an EXTRA(03:18:22) – An adventurous attitude(03:20:04) – Burden of Dreams(03:26:03) – Finnish bouldering(03:32:48) – Wrap up

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention. We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in EP 207.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Return — Uncut Video!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Fenix!fenix-store.comMy Go-To Headlamp: HL32R-TThe Cadillac of Headlamps: HM65R-T V2.0Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:10) – Life update from Steven(00:11:07) – OQS banter(00:13:34) – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207)(00:18:48) – Wrist widgets(00:23:33) – TFCC pain & injury prevention(00:27:41) – Knee exercises for heel hooks(00:32:44) – Lifting straps for hamstring training(00:35:33) – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip(00:39:20) – Clarifying questions(00:43:50) – Protocols for hamstring work(00:48:52) – Nordic curls(00:51:52) – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries(00:54:51) – Sumo deadlift(00:55:51) – How to train for tweaky heel hooks(00:58:11) – Recap of hamstring rehab(00:59:01) – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads(01:08:11) – Stop firefighting(01:10:14) – How to release tight neck muscles(01:12:38) – Daily joint mobilization(01:15:15) – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas(01:22:05) – Shoulder injuries(01:27:11) – How to build bulletproof shoulders(01:31:01) – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells(01:36:03) – Doing things for a specific reason(01:41:17) – Having a meaningful goal(01:43:01) – Good pain vs. bad pain(01:48:46) – Patterns in aging climbers(01:53:20) – Good climbers vs. Olympians(01:55:59) – Coach & clinician symbiosis(01:58:45) – The booty thrust(02:02:11) – Tips for aspiring Physios(02:06:52) – How Paul maintains an 8A level(02:11:01) – What’s next for Paul(02:13:02) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWatch the Video Interview:EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Uncut VideoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Mustache Q&A Part 1(00:07:38) – Sticky climber(00:09:00) – Finger strength(00:13:29) – Aesthetics(00:15:56) – Insomniac(00:17:42) – Japanese climbing culture(00:25:32) – Logistics of traveling to Japan(00:26:33) – Anime(00:27:07) – Realizing his potential(00:32:23) – Home wall dreams (00:35:20) – Ethan and Lucas(00:37:19) – Mustache Q&A Part 2(00:39:09) – Best climbing years(00:42:12) – Footwork tips(00:45:39) – Benchmark Berkeley(00:46:14) – Shoutout(00:46:26) – Fast food(00:47:20) – A Little Life and highballing(00:50:09) – Doomsday(00:54:37) – Future highballs

Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV, the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard’, watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution’, unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his stubbornness, why trying limit moves makes him a better climber, learning the macro from the micro, accessing try hard, why he started training, upcoming goals, and much more! I’ve wanted to talk to Keenan since the very beginning of the podcast, and this turned out to be one of my all-time favorite interviews.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keenan-takahashiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:47) – Kalkoentjie(00:06:22) – Buried in admin(00:09:48) – What Keenan’s life looks like(00:15:25) – Taking space(00:18:08) – The origin story of ANTIGRAV(00:28:02) – Selling an emotion(00:32:47) – Making a climbing pant(00:34:12) – Creating value(00:37:56) – Exclusive brands(00:42:12) – The small drop model(00:47:48) – Committing(00:49:50) – Climbing better than ever(00:55:15) – The Finnish Line(01:00:13) – Jimmy Webb’s development in Tahoe(01:02:00) – Chasing dream lines(01:03:20) – Satisfaction(01:07:57) – 10 more things(01:10:23) – Devilution(01:15:51) – Unclimbed projects in Bishop(01:18:23) – The Gold Standard(01:43:47) – Stubbornness(01:46:20) – Learning from one limit move(01:49:33) – Learning the macro from the micro(01:51:52) – What he learned from Spectre(01:53:52) – Surrounding himself with stronger climbers(01:55:12) – V15 at 50, and working weaknesses(01:58:30) – Trying hard(02:08:11) – Passion and relinquishing obsession(02:10:22) – Cultivating fun(02:14:47) – Measuring progress(02:20:52) – The Dark Side(02:23:47) – Ireland plans(02:28:38) – Wrap up

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!Become a Patronpatreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yipNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:11) – Alopecia(00:07:31) – Identity crisis(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head(00:12:55) – Taking back her power(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner(00:25:33) – Training camps(00:30:23) – Alannah’s coaches(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo(00:44:06) – Training with other women(00:46:52) – Working on slab(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI(01:35:39) – Alannah’s eating disorder as a teenager(01:41:53) – The turning point(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food(01:48:13) – Alannah’s PSAs(01:50:15) – My PSA(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation(01:55:05) – What’s next(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram(02:04:49) – Wrap up

Fitz Cahall is the cofounder of Duct Tape Then Beer, and the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold with Alex Honnold. We talked about the early days of the internet, what podcasting was like in 2007, being on the fringe, storytelling, virtual reality, spending your time on the right things, the unglamorous parts of our work, results vs. success, his new book States of Adventure, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 219: Fitz Cahall — Uncut Video!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fitz-cahallNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:30) – A typical workday(00:06:32) – Early days of the internet(00:10:12) – Starting to climb(00:14:45) – Writing for outdoor magazines(00:19:48) – The fringe(00:22:42) – Creating the Dirtbag Diaries(00:33:40) – Storytelling(00:38:08) – Podcasting in 2007(00:50:47) – Early video podcasts(00:55:32) – Virtual reality(01:02:48) – Being pro but not fancy(01:05:45) – Choosing stories(01:13:19) – His new book(01:18:04) – A Lifeline Home(01:23:20) – States of Adventure(01:35:54) – My own plans for a book(01:42:23) – Taking authorship of your time(01:50:25) – Spending time on the right things(01:56:09) – The unglamorous parts(02:03:20) – Giving yourself space(02:12:45) – Uberism & mediocrity(02:17:24) – Results vs. success(02:20:20) – Climbing Gold & the Olympics(02:28:46) – Wrap up

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat!matwrightcoaching.comCheck out Kletterkalk UK!kletterkalk.co.ukMat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation(00:24:22) – Making your own luck(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2(00:41:37) – The send(00:44:54) – The process(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send(00:54:57) – Mat’s next project(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off(01:11:00) – Taking time off(01:18:37) – Less vs. more(01:24:07) – Wrap up

Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App, and much more. Dr. Spiegel does a self-hypnosis session with Steven to relieve stress and anxiety and you can follow along!Check out Reveri:reverihealth.app.link/nuggetclimbing👆 Use my special link to get 2 free weeks! Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 👆 7-Day Free Trial! Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy:squamish.arcteryxacademy.cominstagram.com/arcteryxacademy👆 Sign up and follow them on Instagram for updates! Check out Crimpd:crimpd.com👆 Download the Crimpd app for free! Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.com👆 Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)👆 Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/david-spiegel Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:46) – Dr. Spiegel’s background(00:08:51) – My experience with Reveri(00:10:45) – Trying out being different(00:14:47) – Compassion for your body(00:16:35) – The stage hypnosis hustle(00:18:58) – Hypnotizability(00:23:51) – Cognitive flexibility(00:25:36) – The long-term effects of self-hypnosis(00:30:21) – Hypnosis is gaining control(00:36:31) – Is hypnotizability learnable?(00:45:20) – Climbing styles and hypnotizability(00:46:48) – Hypnotizability Test(00:57:55) – Discussing my results(01:00:10) – Anxiety(01:01:48) – Novelty, memory, and visualization(01:07:30) – More about hypnotizability(01:13:52) – Hypnosis as a tool(01:17:03) – Relieve Stress Hypnosis Session(01:31:49) – Debrief of our session(01:34:25) – Explaining the ritual(01:38:45) – The Reveri App(01:42:15) – How climbers should use the app(01:47:14) – Breathing exercises(01:54:19) – Putting it all together(01:56:31) – Final thoughts

This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training.*Use the timestamps below if you want to skip to the masterclass.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 2:54:13.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Our weekends(00:07:30) – Key takeaways from our main episode(00:40:45) – A masterclass in endurance training

Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice’s new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and gave a discount for listeners!Check out the Lattice Training Course!Ultimate Course + Assessment BundleUse code “NUGGET20” for 20% off!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/maddy-copeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:09) – Food poisoning in the van(00:09:03) – Home wall training(00:13:59) – Overview(00:15:49) – Dancing to climbing(00:20:35) – Warrington(00:27:31) – The Cham Shack(00:34:57) – Discomfort(00:36:19) – Comfort creep(00:48:28) – Pleasure pointing(00:54:08) – Being your biggest supporter(01:05:22) – The joy of missing out(01:11:40) – Not having a bucket list(01:18:12) – Quitting social media and sponsorship(01:22:20) – Half thereness(01:26:11) – British over-modesty(01:49:54) – Getting into training(01:55:30) – Maddy’s role with Lattice(01:57:46) – Lattice’s new training course(02:07:47) – Who should buy the course?(02:16:45) – Online vs. in-person coaching(02:25:21) – Wrap up and discount code(02:30:18) – Identifying blind spots(02:36:15) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons!

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy!squamish.arcteryxacademy.cominstagram.com/arcteryxacademyCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williamsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:50) – Gaming(00:05:13) – Overview(00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing(00:11:12) – His first V10(00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16(00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker’(00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’(00:21:45) – Getting obsessed(00:25:31) – What makes a good session(00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days(00:30:51) – Friction control(00:34:46) – Bad tactics(00:39:15) – Feeling strong(00:41:17) – No regrets(00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb(00:50:34) – Training for ROTS(00:56:33) – Nathan’s one-arm hang workout(01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground(01:05:43) – More finger training(01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy(01:11:47) – Nathan’s climbing style(01:24:22) – Static projects(01:26:01) – Feats of strength(01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration(01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations(01:37:14) – Skin products(01:41:31) – Why he took a year off(01:44:34) – Not forcing it(01:47:38) – Working with a coach(01:51:22) – Life balance(01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose(01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans(02:02:01) – More ROTS(02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.Book a Session With Neely:trainingbeta.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 214: Neely Quinn — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoes We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Neely’s breakfast(00:02:48) – Jonathan Siegrist’s rest days(00:04:32) – Overview of our chat(00:05:47) – How working with Hazel Findlay changed her life(00:12:09) – The discomfort goal(00:14:56) – Not sending ‘Tombraider’ 5.13d, and learning how to enjoy climbing again(00:16:34) – Trying max hard, and feeling ready to fail(00:21:15) – Pursuing life coaching(00:22:28) – Self-talk(00:23:09) – The role of a life coach(00:24:35) – Mindset tools(00:28:40) – Email apnea(00:35:22) – Emotions, shame, and what to do(00:38:10) – Steven gets a life coaching session(01:00:07) – Gratitude, self-affirmation, and the list of 3s(01:06:39) – Becoming a life coach(01:08:37) – What Neely is still working on(01:15:29) – Gremlin work(01:26:45) – Getting out of depression(01:30:38) – Toil(01:31:56) – Piano, projecting, and self-hatred(01:34:07) – Self-esteem and inherent value(01:35:52) – Respect and envy(01:38:27) – Our homework(01:41:30) – A last bit of coaching for Steven(01:49:26) – Knowing when to pivot(01:51:02) – Wanting without attachment(01:53:20) – Where to find Neely(01:55:37) – What to look for in a mindset coach(01:57:01) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!