The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Brittany Leavitt is a climber, backpacker, educator, and the co-founder and CEO of Brown Girls Climb (BGC). We talked about Brittany’s climbing origin story, her unique family upbringing, unmasking and educating about race, teaching kids at the Smithsonian, the mission of BGC, creating more accessible spaces, lessons from her first road trip, using TikTok to stay informed, climbing goals, inspiration, and much more.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brittany-leavittNuggets:0:05:20 – Working from home, and having a home office0:07:38 – Why hasn’t Brittany taken the leap to traveling and climbing full-time while working remotely0:10:20 – Being within community, and Brittany’s dream of part-time vanlife0:15:15 – Brittany’s climbing origin story0:20:24 – Outdoor Afro0:21:04 – Brittany’s unique family dynamic, and having accessibility to the outdoors0:24:06 – Unmasking, adoption as a trauma experience, and educating her family0:31:00 – Protecting your own energy, giving space, and knowing when it’s worth it to argue with someone0:34:25 – Family holiday recitals, and Brittany’s guitars0:37:45 – The crossover of art and climbing, and singing around the campfire0:40:12 – Wanting to be an educator, and teaching at the Smithsonian0:46:33 – Musical theater with the kids0:50:01 – Learning patience and empathy from working with kids0:52:05 – Teaching life lessons through climbing, and working with community kids0:54:15 – How to decide what to say yes to, and passing ideas on to someone else0:58:25 – How Brown Girls Climb got started, and what it has become1:06:26 – The mission of Brown Girls Climb1:07:21 – What it feels like to have a space with people who share your experience1:15:09 – Patron question from Adam: How can we make climbing events (like the Rendezspew and International Climbers Festival) more accessible to diverse communities?1:24:11 – Brittany’s road trip to Bishop and Red Rocks in 2019, and writing a piece for Patagonia1:30:27 – What Brittany wishes she had known before the trip, planning which gas stations to stop at, and safety considerations1:35:11 – Favorite non-climbing memories from the trip, visiting famous movie locations, and first-time van living1:41:55 – Doing her first highball boulder, and favorite climbing memories from her trip1:44:37 – Brittany’s advice for folks who want to go on their first climbing road trip1:50:01 – Brittany’s climbing goals in Rumney and The Gunks1:52:32 – Mountain climbing and adventure goals1:54:24 – Who inspires Brittany1:57:28 – What Brittany wishes people understood more and spent more time thinking about1:59:18 – Getting her news from TikTok2:05:17 – Wrap up and what’s next for Brittany

Leo Houlding is one of the greatest adventure climbers of all time. He’s put up new free routes worldwide from the Amazon Rainforest to the remote regions of Antarctica. We talked about his upcoming trip to Baffin Island, his childhood in the UK, using the fix-and-follow system to climb 2000’ big walls with his kids, epic stories from his El Cap days, what he learned from his worst injury, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leo-houldingNuggets:0:02:54 – Prepping for his trip to Baffin Island0:07:16 – Enjoying the logistics, and planning the food for a month-long expedition for three people0:13:50 – Leo’s beta knowledge for expeditions, and going beyond roads0:16:01 – Leo’s “little issue”, and base jumping off the top of Mount Asgard0:23:56 – The challenge of attempting to free climb Asgard again0:27:29 – Leo’s Instagram cover photo0:29:16 – Writing his book, his mom and dad, and his adventurous spirit as a kid0:33:39 – Leo’s first big adventure climb, Old Man of Hoy0:37:24 – How his life has turned out compared to how he imagined it as a kid0:38:24 – Being born at the right time0:42:45 – Generations in Yosemite0:45:18 – “Climb that goddamn mountain.”0:49:49 – Adventuring with his kids0:53:59 – Using the fix-and-follow system with the kids to climb big walls1:00:56 – Climbing in the Wind River Range with Llamas and the kids1:05:11 – Tips for keeping the morale high for kids1:13:13 – Compromises with kids, and plans to take them out of school for an around-the-world mission1:16:41 – “The days are long but the years are short.”1:17:10 – My travels with my family around South America as a 5-year-old, and seeing the developing world as a kid1:20:34 – A final tip for parents who want to adventure with kids1:22:41 – Rest in peace Ammon McNeely ❤1:23:34 – The Alfa Romeo badge story1:35:41 – Question from Sam Stroh: What are Leo’s thoughts on going ground up on The Prophet?1:42:51 – Getting caught in one of the worst storms in Yosemite history, and doing the first free ascent of The Prophet1:48:41 – Closer to the Edge1:49:29 – The end of his Yosemite chapter1:52:03 – Leo’s accident on Cerro Torre1:56:41 – Leo’s expeditions to Antarctica2:02:11 – Kite skiing2:07:11 – Rock climbing at the end of the world2:08:42 – “I wanted the most hardcore trip ever, and I got it.”2:09:52 – His trip to the Amazon rainforest, and making The House of the Gods film2:13:58 – Dropping loads out of an airplane into the rainforest2:18:21 – Free climbing a new route on Mount Roraima2:20:31 – More about Leo’s book Closer to the Edge, and the film 2.4 about adventuring with kids2:23:35 – Why we should travel to the developing world2:24:41 – Wrap up

An interesting conversation with Ron Kauk. Enjoy :)Donate to Sacred Rok:sacredrok.orgSupport the Nugget and Sacred Rok:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingRon's Other Episodes:EP 69: Ron Kauk (May 17, 2021)Follow-Up: Ron Kauk (Jul 29, 2021)

Karly Rager is back on the podcast and is joined by Casey Elliott to talk about the factors that affect climbing performance. We’ve got three engineers in one podcast, and we geek out on the data! Do things like weight, height, and ape index affect how hard you can climb? Is max finger strength more important than days spent climbing outside? Listen to find out!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/karly-and-caseyNuggets:0:06:18 – Karly’s time in El Salto, Mexico0:09:39 – Casey joins us from a legit recording studio, his engineering studies, and coaching vs. engineering0:16:06 – An update from Karly on Project Direct, and how she got connected to Casey0:19:19 – Decision fatigue, and wearing lots of hats0:20:42 – Casey’s climbing and coaching background0:25:51 – Mikey Schaefer calls out Casey, and the connection between dating and projecting routes0:30:03 – What was the goal of this multi-variate statistical analysis?0:32:59 – What is a multivariate statistical analysis, and how does it work?0:40:09 – The 600 people whose data was used in this analysis, and getting away from statements like “I have 5.13 finger strength”0:49:12 – What % of climbers have climbed 5.13?0:50:56 – List of the variables used in this analysis0:53:45 – Casey’s simple model using three variables0:55:15 – How important is climbing outside vs. max finger strength?0:56:35 – Why climbing outside ended up being the most heavily weighted variable in the multivariate model0:59:10 – Higher-end statistics require interpretation1:00:47 – Check out their blog post and the climbing calculator!1:02:08 – Do height, weight, wing span, or BMI affect how hard you can climb?1:07:57 – Thoughts on how age affects how hard you can climb, and playing to your strengths as a short climber1:09:37 – What the data doesn’t tell us1:11:06 – The range of climbing abilities in the 600 participants1:12:36 – How the coefficient for max hangs turned out to be negative, and what that likely means1:18:08 – What should people spend their time on to get better at climbing?1:20:59 – How training can lead to expectations, and getting good before you get strong1:24:38 – Getting creative with skill drills1:25:34 – Watching climbing videos, and filming your Kilter Board sessions1:27:49 – Diving deeper into what you should do to climb harder boulders and sport routes1:32:06 – Looking for low-hanging fruit1:35:03 – How Karly used the online calculator before her trip to El Salto1:36:08 – How to use the online climbing calculator, and how to take the assessment1:39:34 – How many outdoor days does it take to be a master?1:42:35 – Injury prevention isn’t captured in the model1:43:41 – What variables would Karly and Casey like to see in their dream multi-variate statistical analysis?1:46:39 – What is Mikey Schafer up to?1:48:16 – Skiing this winter, and finishing his masters1:48:52 – The momentum that comes with doing hard things, and looking at high performers1:51:56 – Final thoughts and wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Steve Bechtel is back on the podcast for a deep dive into active recovery. We discuss what the research says about active vs. passive recovery, what methods work best, why it’s better than sitting on the couch on your rest days, and we also tackle the practical side of things and discuss realistic options for active recovery between burns at the crag, how to have active rest days without doing too much, what deload weeks should look like, and common pitfalls to avoid.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:30:02.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 35: Steve Bechtel (Sept 14, 2020)Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel (Jan 21, 2021)Follow-Up #2: Steve Bechtel (Nov 11, 2021)

Scott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderers. We talked about why it’s a mistake to mimic top athletes, tips for balancing climbing with other sports, capacity vs. utilization, why to back off after a personal best, developing layers of endurance, the flaw with HRV, how to test your recovery before training, how to fail successfully, the future of alpinism and mountain running, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “NUGGET” for $10 off!I recommend the Progressor 150 for finger training and testing. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/scott-johnstonNuggets:0:04:56 – Inventing telescopes, and refurbishing European sports cars0:11:25 – Being a cross-country ski racer, climbing with Steve House, and getting into coaching0:13:22 – Why Scott and Steve decided to write Training for the New Alpinism0:15:30 – Partnering with Kilian Journett on a second book Training for the Uphill Athlete0:19:00 – The mistake of trying to mimic people like Killian Journett or Adam Ondra0:23:05 – Sound bites, the dumbing down of our attention spans, and applying traditional training methods to unconventional sports0:25:09 – Who is the Uphill Athlete book for?0:27:56 – Being a general outdoor athlete and a climber0:28:54 – Patron question from Alex: Tips for training for bouldering and sport climbing during ski season and vice versa?0:34:42 – Why more training isn’t always better0:37:39 – Building capacity, and why you rarely perform well while you’re training0:39:19 – Block periodization0:42:09 – Monitoring your recovery, using a hangboard to check in, and the restorative effect of easy aerobic activity0:46:59 – Capacity vs. utilization training0:54:26 – Training vs. randomly exercising0:57:16 – Fundamental qualities of sports, and building capacity in different qualities1:03:32 – Putting money in the bank vs. spending it1:07:18 – Why you should back off after you hit a PR in your training1:12:24 – Deloads1:16:40 – Non-linear periodization1:18:54 – The aerobic system, and the vacuum cleaner analogy1:25:54 – Developing layers of endurance1:27:52 – How and why boulderers and sport climbers should train endurance1:31:56 – More about the layers of endurance1:38:25 – My upcoming Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel, why training needs to be more specific at higher levels, and how recovery makes you stronger1:41:33 – How important is active recovery?1:44:32 – The flaw with HRV for measuring recovery1:50:20 – Tuning in to your body, and how to test your level of fatigue1:53:34 – Using the Tindeq to test your finger strength before training (use code NUGGET for $10 off)1:56:47 – Why monitoring your progress leads to mental toughness2:03:19 – How to get the experience you need to climb technical mountains and alpine routes2:06:25 – The Dreaded Water Carries, and improving muscular endurance2:19:29 – How long and how often should our training blocks be?2:22:20 – Losing two climbing partners on K22:27:33 – How to fail successfully2:34:09 – Inventing challenges, and the essential parts of being human2:38:02 – Scott’s current outdoor lifestyle, and trying to slow the decline as aging athletes2:42:26 – Doing max strength to recover from hard endurance work2:46:15 – A teaser for how to increase your weighted pull-ups2:50:29 – Where to find Scott2:52:33 – What excites Scott the most about the future of alpinism and mountain running2:56:40 – Understanding training principles, and the key takeaway from this episode

Don McGrath is the author of Vertical Mind and an expert on mental training for climbing. We talked about the two simple diet changes he made to get back in shape in his 60s, our untapped potential in mental training, debunking and rewriting unhelpful scripts, how to tackle fear of falling and fear of failure, pre-climb rituals, how to use your climbing partner as a coach, how to stay in love with climbing as we age, duct tape and baling wire, embracing the suck, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/don-mcgrathNuggets:0:03:56 – The love/hate relationship to climbing in Rifle and Smith Rock0:07:49 – Living in Colorado Springs, spending the winter in the gym, and working with a coach0:08:52 – The two simple diet changes Don made to lose his “60-year-old belly”0:10:56 – Increasing his climbing volume, getting on harder routes in the gym, and the accountability of a coach0:12:31 – Whiskey time, habits, and alcohol substitutes0:16:16 – Turning 60, being retired, and setting the goal of climbing 5.12+/13- (7c/+) again after a decade0:18:07 – Don’s coach Kevin Branford0:20:40 – Don’s introduction to climbing, and how he became interested in writing and mental training0:27:27 – Shame Theory, and Fear of Failure0:30:43 – How the mental aspect of training is overlooked, and diving into movement, emotions, and thoughts0:34:03 – How to tackle fear of falling, scripts, working on one thing at a time, and the arsenal of uneventful falls0:39:16 – The story of the woman in The Gunks, and understanding irrational fear0:42:29 – Debunking scripts0:45:40 – The script that was holding Don back when he was one-hanging routes in Rifle0:47:49 – Don’s mantra, and “one move at a time”0:52:20 – Pre-climb ritual0:56:38 – Don’s first breakthrough with his mental game0:58:11 – Most common unproductive scripts1:04:23 – The best piece of onsighting advice I’ve gotten1:05:25 – Opening and closing your focus1:08:53 – What musical instruments and karate have to do with climbing1:10:30 – Warmups as a big missed opportunity1:13:56 – Cocreative coaching with your climbing partner1:17:43 – Shoulds elicit a shame response1:21:02 – Recommendations for couples who are also climbing partners1:23:25 – The area of mental game that I’ve been focused on, more about scripts, and breaking into new grades1:29:32 – Patron question from Gromstoph: Do you have any strategies for getting comfortable on a route more quickly?1:33:05 – “Just go find out.”1:37:29 – Patron question from Caden: Are there any ways to practice commitment with new moves when doing new climbs?1:40:37 – Main takeaway about mental training1:41:24 – How to love your sport as you age, play, and innovate1:46:24 – Why climbing is unique1:48:06 – Duct tape and baling wire1:49:40 – Don’s advice for those of us in our 20s and 30s1:51:52 – Socio-behavioral changes, and employing winning tactics1:54:28 – Don’s book The Climb1:56:38 – What’s the next book?1:57:15 – Don’s writing practice, and how a book develops a life of its own1:59:01 – Advice from Les Brown: “Every point should have a story, and every story should have a point.”2:00:41 – Have fun, enjoy the process, and embrace the suck2:03:30 – Getting inspiration from watching kids2:04:53 – Inspiration from good coaches, and the book Running With the Buffalo2:06:25 – What’s next?2:07:23 – Wrap up, and how to connect with Don

Have you listened to Climbing Gold?! The new season is here! Check out the first episode of the new season, and subscribe to Climbing Gold on your favorite podcast app for more great climbing stories. Enjoy :)In the 1970’s, no flame burned brighter than Hot Henry Barber. Often heralded as the first traveling climber, Henry redefined standards for free climbing and free soloing not just the US, but every country he visited. Along the way, he shattered egos before learning to check his own.Check out Climbing Gold!climbinggold.comInstagramListen on Apple PodcastsListen on Spotify

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough. Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!The Nugget is on YouTube!youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnoldNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:21) – Interviews and TED Talks(00:07:25) – Finding new terrain for this interview(00:08:05) – Epic solo linkup in Zion(00:11:16) – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress’… again(00:12:08) – Why do these big solo linkups?(00:12:56) – Epic solo linkup in Red Rock(00:14:54) – Foot pain on big walls and vitamin I(00:17:41) – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune’s Buttress’ and ‘Resolution Arete’(00:20:34) – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed(00:21:29) – Solos that fly under the radar(00:22:47) – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso’ in Mexico(00:25:17) – The limits of free soloing(00:28:31) – Quantum leaps(00:30:16) – Yosemite soloing, and Alex vs. top sport climbers(00:32:22) – Chris Sharma's FA of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+), and the role of talent(00:35:40) – Will Alex climb 5.15a (9a+)?(00:38:33) – Dad strength(00:39:46) – Vegas gyms and homewall dreams(00:49:34) – Near misses(00:55:34) – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps’ in Riglos Spain(00:57:46) – Competing with Ethan Pringle, soloing ‘Shune’s Butress’ in the snow, and the tree story(01:03:16) – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger’, Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals(01:04:22) – The physiological limits of ‘The Nose’ speed record(01:08:06) – Breaking ‘The Nose’ speed record(01:10:47) – Biggest lessons from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft(01:14:26) – Inspiration, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou(01:18:15) – Following the climbing news(01:19:01) – Who Alex is most impressed by, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)(01:20:35) – New season of Climbing Gold(01:22:13) – Favorite interviews on Climbing Gold(01:23:28) – Corporate speaking and interviewing Stone Masters(01:26:24) – Climbing Gold uncut interviews(01:28:37) – Pooping while free soloing stories(01:34:56) – Shit-puting, and pooping while soloing El Cap(01:36:29) – Filming Free Solo and the Warrior Spirit(01:38:54) – The commitment to excellence(01:41:05) – Plans for the PNW(01:43:57) – “More intention never hurt.”(01:44:47) – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:05:18) – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland(00:07:56) – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for(00:10:53) – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield(00:12:17) – Following Will’s journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated(00:15:38) – Mutation continuing to go unrepeated again after Will did it(00:17:23) – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)(00:20:07) – Will’s first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan’s shed(00:23:32) – Will’s thoughts on Shawn’s progress on Burden(00:25:10) – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move(00:30:16) – Will’s standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica(00:33:45) – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session(00:36:26) – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden(00:41:12) – How Will’s beta compared to Nalle’s, and the heal hook beta(00:46:17) – What a full session looked like on the replica, and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder(00:51:28) – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send(00:54:48) – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder(00:57:33) – Will’s shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move(00:58:53) – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb’s experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots(01:08:50) – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?(01:12:03) – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan’s shed(01:15:35) – Will’s thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger(01:26:27) – Will’s feats of finger strength on the hangboard(01:30:57) – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?(01:34:21) – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b(01:38:24) – Bigger edge training vs. micros(01:40:52) – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity(01:46:28) – Will’s absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)(01:49:10) – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur(01:52:21) – What’s next for Will, and potential plans for the summer(01:53:59) – Will’s thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a(01:55:13) – Being more thoughtful about your climbing(01:57:17) – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden(01:58:22) – Subscribe to Will’s YouTube channel for send footage!

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Katie Lamb. We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:12:49.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie’s Original Episode:EP 145: Katie Lamb

Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiberNuggets:0:03:19 – My painting of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, and hominess0:04:34 – Charlie’s apartment, and making and collecting art0:08:08 – What Charlie thought I looked like from listening to the podcast0:10:48 – How Charlie got into coaching, routesetters as choreographers, and building a successful climbing team from scratch0:16:49 – Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, Charlie’s own competition background, and being obsessed with coaching and giving back to the kids0:18:37 – Where Charlie got his coaching ideas, and the emphasis on humor, games, and play0:22:37 – “The only reason anyone’s going to give effort to something is if they believe in it.”0:24:38 – Hard work, and then reward (e.g. capture the flag)0:26:38 – Motivating adult clients, and working with one of his clients to get better at slab0:30:15 – The school system, and understanding why you are doing things0:32:26 – Slab climbing fundamentals0:35:38 – Spending time on fundamental skills, the learning zone, and perfect repeats0:40:26 – Adding structure to the warmup, and adherence as #10:43:39 – Customizing training for each individual, and finding all of the lemons to squeeze0:47:31 – How routesetting helped Charlie’s climbing, and asking “why”0:50:53 – How asking “why” applies to outdoor climbs0:53:53 – Making up your own climbs in the gym, puzzle books, and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker1:03:15 – The forced move drill1:05:35 – Charlie’s goal to climb V13, and the path to get there1:12:10 – My Follow-Up with Emil Abrahamsson, my experience with fueling my training better, and momentum1:14:37 – More about Charlie’s approach to climbing V13, and finger training with large hands1:17:13 – My goal for Rocklands, how Charlie approaches a trip, and the value of getting on really hard climbs1:23:34 What Charlie is working on improving to climb V13, and my plans to project a V12 and V13 in Rocky Mountain this Fall1:29:23 – “Never, ever, ever give up.” - Winston Churchill1:33:58 – Charlie’s honeymoon1:35:36 – Using your spouse/partner as an accountability tool1:39:44 – Valuing climbing for the experiences rather than self-worth1:44:11 – How to have a good poop in the morning, every time1:49:11 – My paleo autoimmune diet experiment, and having full meals at the crag1:51:40 – My bicep tendon injury1:52:45 – Charlie’s experiment with an alkaline diet1:55:39 – How Charlie blew up on Instagram2:03:05 – Being awarded the “Dyno King” by Chris Sharma, and drawing inspiration from Tyson Schoene2:05:37 – Setting the record straight with Austin Hoyt2:09:58 – Plugs and wrap up

Melina Costanza is a competition powerhouse and the 2021 US Boulder National Champion. She opened up recently about her struggles with an eating disorder and decided to step away from competitions. We talked about her foot injury and surgery, why patent law is similar to climbing, how sports glamorize suffering, getting stronger during recovery, how gratitude can impact your training, and fun facts about Melina from ketchup to baby teeth necklaces.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanzaNuggets:0:06:25 – Update on Melina’s foot surgery and recovery0:10:27 – The patent bar exam, and similarities between patent law and climbing0:15:15 – Legos, and being a nerd growing up0:16:45 – How taking her first physics class improved her climbing0:19:30 – Modern volume climbing0:24:06 – How Melina is thinking about her climbing moving forward, and training for upcoming competitions0:26:20 – Plans to get back into sport climbing, and Melina’s Tumbler account0:28:31 – Why Melina decided to quit climbing in college0:33:36 – Fun in competitions, and only doing competitions that she wants to be at0:36:48 – Expectations and pressure, and competing to win vs. competing to not lose0:42:25 – Competitions as data, and “shoulding”0:45:21 – Melina’s Instagram post about her eating disorder, and the story of breaking her foot0:50:40 – The distortion your mind experiences with an eating disorder, and how sports glamorize suffering0:57:42 – How your identity becomes entangled in an eating disorder, and rewriting the stories you tell yourself1:01:53 – The importance of including fat and carbs in your diet, and getting stronger quickly once she started fueling properly1:09:54 – Taking a leap of faith, and being vulnerable publically to help others1:15:40 – A comment from Nicole1:16:23 – Patron question from Katja: What inspired her to go public with her story?1:19:13 – Not letting her eating disorder define her1:20:09 – Did talking about it publically help?1:22:53 – Patron question from Ana: Did anyone bring up Melina’s weight as a concern?1:24:50 – Patron question from Eric: How would someone bring up concerns about an eating disorder in a tactful way?1:27:10 – Patron question from Zachary: How does Melina deal with intrusive thoughts around weight? How does she balance performance with recovery?1:30:52 – Disconnecting morality from food, and sweets1:34:31 – How not eating enough disrupts sleep1:37:30 – Fun facts with Melina Costanza!1:37:37 – Tattooing people in high school1:39:02 – Ketchup1:40:44 – Container store1:42:05 – Whiteboards and houseplants1:43:54 – Taylor Swift1:47:41 – Doja Cat1:49:46 – Sharks1:50:18 – The meat packing industry in the early 1900s1:51:59 – Parents and academics1:54:17 – Training at home during covid with her brother, and the role of gratitude in training1:59:07 – Current training, and getting strong2:04:29 – Training her fingers for the first time, and using the Tindeq (use code NUGGET for $10 off!)2:07:47 – How hard can Melina climb with one foot?2:09:18 – More fun facts with Melina!2:09:50 – Frozen peas2:10:46 – Baby teeth necklace2:11:50 – Forensic pathology DVDs2:15:02 – Raw octopus2:15:49 – Medival torture museum, and developing confidence2:19:15 – Fencing2:20:20 – Olympic aspirations2:21:23 – A couple of questions from Tyson Schoene2:26:19 – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands.Matt's Website:mattheyliger.comBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:31:47.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt’s Original Episode:EP 143: Matt Heyliger

Johnny Dawes is a legendary British rock climber known for his exceptional footwork and unique dynamic style. We talked about his first ascent of Indian Face (the first-ever E9) when it was likely the most dangerous route in the world, climbing 5.13b (8a) slabs without using his hands, tips for mastering footwork, his writing practice and current book project, and life lessons involving three-legged stools, omelets, pasta, icebergs, and more.Watch This Video!Johnny's 7-Minute Video on The GuardianCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/johnny-dawesNuggets:0:04:22 – A couple of fun stories from our past lives0:08:01 – Having a blue day, dicking about, and thoughts on what he wants to accomplish in his life0:10:25 – The head, the heart, and the gut0:11:22 – Knowing where you’re going, the water bottle, and the grannies0:15:51 – Why I was so excited to talk with Johnny0:17:24 – Crawling out the driver's window of his car with a brick on the accelerator0:21:42 – Breaking down one of his legendary no-hand climbs (watch the Guardian video!)0:26:35 – Johnny’s ideal staircase, and flattening the world to flatter our egos0:30:07 – Bolts and baked potatoes0:32:04 – Johnny’s thoughts about modern bouldering, and being impressed with Shawn Raboutou0:33:38 – Chess problems, eyes bigger than tummy, and what brought the best out of Johnny in his climbing0:37:55 – Sticking an 8A (V11) hang on two terrible holds0:42:06 – What Johnny looks for in climbing, and the musicality of climbing0:52:04 – Hank Pascal0:53:27 – Watchin Jerry Moffatt climb Masters Wall, and why Johnny felt compelled to climb Indian Face, the world’s first E91:01:09 – North Wales, the apple tree, and wanting to be a part of the history of the sport1:10:01 – Sending Indian Face, partying at the disco, trying The Meltdown 9a, and some of Johnny’s recent new routes at Cloggy1:15:19 – Breakdown of the difficulty and gear on Indian Face, and how it got its name1:20:36 – Kurt Albert on the escalator1:23:59 – Patron comment from Artjom, and no-hands tips and exercises from Johnny1:27:48 – The hardest things Johnny has climbed without his hands, and climbing 1600+ “walks” in Britain1:31:15 – Spectacular Walks on British Rock1:32:38 – Making grip1:35:47 – How no-hands climbing applies to hard technical rock climbing1:37:55 – How Johnny Dawes approaches improving footwork1:41:19 – Writing the Footwork Handbook1:43:38 – His autobiography, his writing practice, and the mysteries of consciousness1:47:58 – Zen and the Art of Archery1:51:03 – A window into being alive, and games that keep you present1:53:12 – “Your enthusiasm tells you who you are”, and climbing in gardening gloves1:55:19 – Patron question from Will: What climbers inspired Johnny early on?1:57:50 – Music, writing, and artistic inspirations1:58:40 – Who does Johnny pay attention to these days in climbing?2:01:05 – Patron question from Nick: What do you think climbing will or should look like in another 30 years?2:03:12 – Climbing shoe evolution, and the world’s strongest man2:05:19 – Life lessons with Johnny Dawes, the three-legged stool, and making omelets and pasta2:12:20 – Formative causation2:14:19 – Go to bed when you’re tired, and treat people like icebergs2:15:35 – “It is never too late to be who you might have been.”2:19:37 – Roof man, and being useless2:22:12 – Reading Jeff Smoot’s book, and why humans do dangerous things2:25:22 – Wanting to do impossible things, and “modern life can go f*** itself”2:26:57 – “Can I go?”

Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse FirestoneTom Randall's Follow-Up:Follow-Up: Tom Randall The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-6Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:55) – Sending my first three V11s in 2021, why 2022 was less successful than 2021, and "focus tends to produce excellence"(00:09:56) – Why 2022 was a great year for Jesse, and flashing Free Willie V10 in Hueco Tanks(00:11:56) – Jesse’s new philosophy, and realization that he will never try everything on his list(00:13:37) – Steven’s Tip #1: Write out a rough plan for your year(00:16:31) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Map out the major phases for your year(00:17:16) – Steven’s Tip #2: Reflect and take notes on your previous year(00:20:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Keep a daily journal(00:21:17) – Bonus Tip: Celebrate your successes, and write down your top 10 climbing experiences at the end of each year(00:22:14) – What Jesse includes in his daily journal, and reviewing once a season(00:24:21) – My preferred journaling method, and the +/- system(00:26:43) – Jesse’s Google Keep beta(00:28:05) – Steven’s Tip #3: Give yourself time to transition between disciplines(00:34:36) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Write down three things that you want to work on to be prepared for each phase(00:40:05) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Your training should support your climbing (put the climbing first)(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: If you want to hit a peak performance, set aside three months to build toward that goal(00:44:34) – Steven’s Tip #5: Listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall on how to program your training(00:45:23) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Just winging it(00:45:43) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not having a plan(00:47:21) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not rolling with the punches(00:48:28) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not taking notes (or not summarizing your notes in a way that is actually useful)(00:49:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking a rest phase(00:52:14) – Bonus Tip: If you want to keep a session short, make a plan for right after the session(00:53:55) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Bouncing around too often with disciplines, styles, rock types, etc.(00:55:24) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Putting all of your time, and energy, and using all of the good conditions for one limit thing (throw yourself a bone every once in a while!)(00:57:12) – The progression zone(00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: Make a plan and take notes, and listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall(00:58:47) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Focus on the stuff that matters: no more than three(00:59:22) – Jesse’s two goals for 2022(01:00:13) – Let us know if you want a season 2!

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:06:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingEmil’s Original Episode:EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021)

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-strohNuggets:0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals0:10:25 – Sam’s stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam’s thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned0:35:59 – Sam’s background in sports0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience1:16:28 – Sam’s biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style1:34:12 – Sam’s ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap1:37:34 – The Freerider story1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks1:46:58 – Sam’s knee injury1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:26) – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals!(00:04:12) – Why picking the right project matters(00:05:41) – Jesse’s experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA(00:07:05) – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO(00:09:39) – Jesse’s epic to climb his first V10 in OR(00:11:34) – Times I’ve botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR(00:15:58) – Jesse’s experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR(00:17:04) – Steven’s Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy(00:18:09) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging?(00:21:03) – Bonus Tip: Know thyself(00:22:08) – Steven’s Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they’re not absolute(00:24:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation(00:27:16) – Steven’s Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing(00:27:56) – Steven’s Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can)(00:29:55) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Once you’ve committed to trying to do something, it’s ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty(00:33:55) – Steven’s Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you(00:37:27) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list, and not leaving room for serendipity(00:40:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways(00:42:13) – Jesse’s realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA(00:43:00) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!)(00:45:35) – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt(00:48:00) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move(00:50:45) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don’t let yourself be put in a box!)(00:53:02) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge(00:54:20) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it’s there(00:54:50) – Jesse’s Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects(00:56:37) – Summaries are in the show notes!(00:57:17) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what’s inspiring(00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you’ve ever done, stack all the cards in your favor

Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingTom’s Other Episodes:EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021)Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)Sam’s Other Episodes:EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-samNuggets:0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom’s advice for vanlife peeing activities0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links)0:13:59 – Tom’s busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do0:15:58 – Tom’s quest to find the ultimate climbing experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time’ E90:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube?0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he’s so interested in where things are going0:26:10 – It’s still early on YouTube0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years?0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media?0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!)0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra’s channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from?1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode)1:14:09 – Sam’s 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems1:19:12 – Sam’s recommendations for The Nugget’s channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel1:23:58 – Tom’s advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on1:32:49 – Why aren’t brands doing more on YouTube?1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned?1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships1:43:55 – Tom’s advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom’s upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam’s upcoming trips in the States1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon

Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-4Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:23) – Jesse’s realization about his climbing style, and wanting to climb taller(00:06:23) – My interest in getting better at straight-on roof climbing(00:07:47) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Structure your technical practice(00:10:38) – Skills are specific to the intensity of the movement(00:12:25) – My philosophy for improving technique and how it differs from Jesse’s(00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber(00:15:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity(00:16:53) – The lesson Jesse learned from Pangalactic Gargleblaster(00:19:30) – Steven’s Tip #2: Watch climbing videos(00:22:21) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Film yourself incessently(00:26:27) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do perfect repeats(00:29:33) – Steven’s Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries(00:30:59) – The confidence that comes from having footage of yourself climbing well(00:33:48) – “We tend to believe the things we tell ourselves.”(00:36:26) – Jesse’s Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language(00:38:31) – Steven’s Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag(00:40:33) – Bonus Tip: Frustration is usually a sign that there is room for improvement(00:42:12) – Bonus Tip: Have your friends set problems for you on the spray wall(00:42:12) – The satisfaction of climbing a scrappy or unpleasant climb really gracefully(00:43:34) – “Take me to a moderate that I’ve never heard of.”(00:43:56) – Jesse’s Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall(00:48:38) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Assuming you’ve learned everything there is to learn(00:51:33) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique(00:55:08) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Going through the motions(00:56:38) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice(00:58:36) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing(01:02:25) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas(01:03:51) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you’re bad at and turning everything into your style(01:06:14) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving on the wall(01:06:31) – Steven’s Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more!Check out Tim's Instagram post about Era VellaBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:24:37.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTim’s Original Episode:EP 107: Tim Emmett (Feb 21, 2022)

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeannie-wallNuggets:0:08:38 – Overview of our conversation, and growing up as the youngest of 11 children0:14:22 – Baggage and benefits from her upbringing, and being competitive as a racer0:16:52 – The chapter of life that Jeannie is in now, and learning patience0:19:22 – Competing at the Olympic Trials for nordic skiing, and why she doesn’t miss competing and racing0:23:58 – Shifting toward climbing, and how she has changed in her 50s0:25:38 – Examples of people climbing hard in their 60s, and Jeannie’s hut ski trip0:28:07 – Why Jeannie finally got hooked on climbing0:34:12 – Getting Swine Flu, dealing with chronic fatigue for two years, and finding a different path in climbing0:36:14 – “If you wanna go fast, you have to go slow most of the time.”0:41:31 – How media influences us in climbing, and giving the last 10% to be excellent at something0:47:02 – My inner tension with bouldering, the role of mentorship, and Jeannie’s story of climbing Fitz Roy0:54:42 – Challenge and risk as key parts of the human experience1:01:18 – “If we’re not learning are we really happy?”1:05:25 – Engaging with the edge of our comfort zone1:07:13 – The pressure to be someone other than who you are1:12:33 – The value of pursuing your passion1:15:05 – Wildness, and why Jeannie and Leslie started Broad Beta1:24:20 – Heroes, looking at the whole person, and the stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things1:28:42 – Why stories are so powerful1:33:02 – Sharing the whole story, and Jeannie’s menopause article1:38:09 – Jeannie’s vision for Broad Beta1:45:12 – Where to find Broad Beta1:47:10 – Wrap up and final questions

Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-3Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:29) – The worst sport climbing I’ve been on, destroying my rental car, and having too high of expectations(00:09:16) – Jesse’s experiences making weekend trips to Smith Rock(00:10:29) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew(00:11:38) – Steven’s Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip(00:13:12) – My trip to Rifle in 2018, and why it was successful(00:14:30) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip(00:15:30) – Jesse’s endurance/money analogy(00:16:14) – A tip for how to practice and train for sport climbing on a spray wall(00:18:38) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Be mindful of crag’s ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag(00:19:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have(00:22:27) – Steven’s Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try(00:23:21) – Bonus Tip: Leave the ground with purpose(00:23:57) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal(00:25:40) – Steven’s Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try(00:27:29) – Jesse’s Tip #5: Dial in your snack game(00:29:02) – Steven’s Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don’t try to do both(00:31:59) – Bonus Tip: If you are a boulderer primarily, be open-minded and give the routes time to grow on you 0:31:50 – The sunk cost fallacy, being okay with recon tries, and why you’ll probably get better at sport climbing over time(00:38:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers(00:40:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip(00:43:19) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders(00:45:45) – The value of not trying your project on the last day of your trip(00:48:11) – Some thoughts and tips related to onsighting(00:50:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone(00:51:31) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip(00:52:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations(00:53:55) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it’s secondary to actual sport climbing skills(00:54:25) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count

Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest lessons he learned from competitive soccer, how deadlifting fixed his back, a typical week of training, his finger training journey, the power of consistency over time, finding his artistic expression in photography, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caleb-robinsonNuggets:0:07:20 – A Thursday in the life of Caleb Robinson0:08:55 – New Year’s Resolutions, and building habits over time0:11:24 – Climbing V13 in the first few years of climbing, and how competitive soccer informed his climbing and training approach0:16:05 – How deadlifting fixed Caleb’s back0:21:08 – Being enamored with soccer, and why he quit soccer and started climbing0:24:07 – There’s no middle ground in conventional team sports, and why climbing is so special0:29:16 – Uncle —> karate gym —> climbing0:34:00 – “The hard work that you don’t want to do pays off.”0:36:04 – “Intelligence is just as important as physical prowess.”0:36:45 – Quadzilla, and connecting between the upper body and lower body0:40:42 – How “hard work pays off” applies to Caleb’s climbing0:42:41 – Being a self-learner, and having intention0:49:12 – Training resources and athletes that have guided Caleb’s approach0:52:26 – Experimenting with training, focusing on being good at climbing, and avoiding common mistakes and pitfalls0:59:24 – How Caleb developed his technique, and the importance of climbing with people who are better than you1:02:57 – Having a mobility routine, dedicating time to recovery, and missing snowboarding1:08:40 – Caleb’s finger-training journey1:19:50 – The value of consistency + simplicity, and sticking with it when progress slows (and Caleb’s love affair with Dave MacLeod)1:27:17 – What Caleb’s finger training progress looked like over the two years that he did max hangs1:31:41 – Caleb’s grip positions for hangboarding1:33:52 – How his finger training has changed in the past year, and learning to apply his finger strength to climbing1:38:13 – What a typical training week looks like for Caleb1:45:16 – Why Caleb started route setting1:47:21 – A typical training week now as a route setter1:49:31 – Caleb’s philosophy about skills, finger strength, and core strength, and his stable workouts right now (board climbing, campusing on the spray wall, etc)1:52:32 – Caleb’s core training routine1:58:01 – Why Caleb focuses on maximal effort training1:59:12 – The importance of quality practice2:00:32 – “Success comes with consistency over a long period of time”, and Caleb’s photography career2:03:07 – Moody Russian painters2:04:31 – Finding his own artistic expression in photography, and the collaborative side of taking portraits2:10:42 – Taking the long view as an athlete and artist2:13:32 – The one thing Caleb wishes people spent more time thinking about2:19:24 – Wrap up and what’s next

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:53:31.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAidan’s Original Episode:EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022)

The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing

Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:22) – A favorite memory from Jesse’s trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 2017(00:11:12) – Top out views(00:12:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads(00:16:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible(00:20:21) – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training(00:22:51) – Steven’s Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you’re trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day)(00:24:56) – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”)(00:25:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!)(00:30:01) – Steven’s Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders(00:32:41) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders)(00:35:01) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff(00:36:28) – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try(00:36:49) – Steven’s Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!)(00:39:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 1(00:40:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have)(00:41:46) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing(00:42:59) – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day)(00:44:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have(00:46:45) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect(00:48:02) – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade(00:48:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety(00:52:40) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics(00:53:23) – Steven’s Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower(01:21:00) – Limbic friction(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home(01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?(01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do(01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day(01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement(02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery(02:03:51) – Leg kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body(02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low(02:08:23) – Staying on the bus(02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period(02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar(02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength(02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is….(02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing(02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer(02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter(02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life(02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie(02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance(02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”(03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering(03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”(03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)(03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP(03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing(03:31:53) – Take action on something(03:34:48) – Thankful for the Lattice Team(03:36:42) – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJordan’s Original Episode:EP 115: Jordan Cannon (April 18, 2022)

Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-1Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:53) – Jesse’s story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA(00:06:28) – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips(00:09:11) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early(00:12:11) – Jesse’s Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day(00:13:58) – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips(00:17:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Be open(00:21:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Climb some easy things(00:23:47) – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are(00:24:10) – Steven’s Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff(00:25:51) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing(00:27:24) – Try to avoid survival mode(00:29:09) – Steven’s Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends(00:31:28) – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list)(00:34:12) – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip(00:37:34) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good(00:39:11) – My first trip to The Red, Jesse’s first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area(00:41:55) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Don’t train right up until the trip, and don’t try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested)(00:45:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb(00:46:07) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much(00:47:21) – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people’s climbing(00:49:01) – Bonus Tip: It’s ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward(00:52:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin(00:54:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right(00:57:52) – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip(00:58:57) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip(00:59:37) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be open(01:00:31) – Wrap up

Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon!Listen to Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone

Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnuttNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:08:20) – Anna’s childhood room(00:10:00) – Plans for Austria(00:11:21) – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast(00:12:50) – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus(00:14:35) – What is Anna’s last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?)(00:17:39) – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget(00:19:41) – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche(00:24:40) – Anna’s climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side(00:28:57) – Balancing intensity and comedy(00:30:10) – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still(00:33:30) – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 6c in the UK(00:35:53) – Anna’s “belaytioship” with Tom Randall(00:39:29) – Going back for ‘Walk of Life’ E9(00:41:33) – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab(00:45:38) – Anna’s approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters(00:50:14) – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life’ E9(00:55:32) – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna’s thoughts on hangboard tests(01:01:01) – Some context about the 9c test(01:02:53) – Toe training!(01:07:11) – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility(01:09:15) – Leaning into our superpowers(01:14:53) – Anna’s dreamboard, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style(01:19:30) – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom’s house(01:24:09) – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them(01:28:45) – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits(01:31:23) – Anna’s thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged(01:38:04) – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more)(01:41:20) – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on(01:43:19) – Shoulder exercises for slab(01:44:12) – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs?(01:46:59) – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown’ 9a (5.14d)(01:52:54) – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren’t violent or war-like?(01:58:52) – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna’s work ethic come from?(02:02:55) – Anna’s sensitivity(02:04:14) – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet(02:09:31) – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page(02:16:14) – Anna’s story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym(02:21:18) – Patron question from James: How can we make women feel more comfortable and included at the crag and at the gym?(02:23:31) – Anna’s thoughts on intention, awareness, curiosity, and acting with empathy and compassion(02:28:27) – What makes Anna feel safe vs unsafe in a climbing gym setting(02:31:32) – How the burden often falls on the people who are inflicted and don’t assume(02:35:45) – Derek Sivers, and why we should just treat everyone the same while respecting their lived experience(02:39:17) – Some more thoughts about progressivism, and being willing to own your mistakes(02:41:34) – Comedy as a mechanism for change, and studying biochemical neuroscience and English(02:42:32) – The change that Anna is trying to make through her videos(02:47:07) – Giving others permission(02:49:28) – What Anna feels excited about right now in her climbing(02:51:01) – What Anna feels excited about right now with her YouTube c

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler’s Other Episodes:EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021)Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)

Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way.Check out The Climbing Zine!climbingzine.comCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/luke-mehallNuggets:0:05:18 – What Luke learned from Tim (the owner of Zia Taqueria) about business0:10:48 – Why Luke started The Climbing Zine0:13:11 – What characterizes a zine?0:17:59 – The theme that connects all of the stories Luke chooses for The Climbing Zine0:20:43 – Finding authors and stories, and why Luke almost never assigns stories/topics0:22:46 – How climbing gave Luke his life and saved him from substance abuse and depression0:26:37 – Why you can’t rely just on climbing for your happiness0:27:55 – Sharing vulnerable stories that others can relate to0:29:26 – Luke’s vision for his brand, and how he hopes to share his personal story through film0:34:53 – How to protect the thing you love when your creative work becomes your job0:38:57 – How Luke uses therapy to talk about his goals, and having a hype man0:42:13 – Steven’s origin story with The Nugget, and what I am trying to do by sharing people’s stories0:50:15 – What all of these interviews have brought to my life0:55:01 – The most challenging parts of building The Nugget into a sustainable business1:02:19 – Desiring routine and seasons1:04:27 – My favorite podcasting moments1:08:19 – Sustaining the effort, paying it forward, and closing thoughts from both me and Luke

New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee. She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more.*This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I’ve done. And it’s one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :) Listen to more episodes of Kegels and Coffee!kegelsandcoffee.com We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-on-kegels-and-coffee

I often get asked, “what is your favorite interview you’ve ever done?” Firstly, I don’t have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy!*This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020.Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face Crack’ in 1985—just shy of the world standard. We talked about eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang’s shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution” to the sport of climbing. Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alan-watts-repostNuggets:0:09:16 – The evolution of dirtbagging, early road life, Smith as a safe zone, “there were no routes”0:14:07 – Eating every other day0:26:47 – Abstainers vs moderators0:31:02 – Bill Ramsey, UO, and climbing “every variation imaginable” at the Columns0:36:03 – Connecting with the people you need0:38:40 – Inferiority complex and pushing to improve0:40:04 – A paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to climbing faces0:46:11 – Stumbling upon sport climbing and going from being a decent climber to a really good climber0:48:29 – Redpoint tactics, ethics, and borrowing from the Europeans0:52:39 – ‘Corner No. 1’, how ‘Chain Reaction’ got its name, and reaching the world standard at Smith Rock0:54:28 – 11b to 13d in six years, ‘Punks in the Gym’, and pushing world standards0:55:44 – Meeting Heinz Zak and Wolfgang’s t-shirt0:58:52 – Pioneering Smith Rock film by Hydro Flask, and going back to the summer of ’85, and ‘East Face Crack’ 5.13d1:04:01 – Other hard crack climbs and ‘Double Stain’1:05:25 – 7 days prepping ‘Sunshine Wall’ and the story of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’1:11:34 – Climbing every day, injuries, and killing the goose that laid the golden eggs1:22:15 – Hip surgery and meeting Adam Ondra1:31:00 – Adam’s post about meeting Alan, and Adam’s onsight of ‘Just Do It’ 5.14c1:36:52 – Adam’s photo book (Alan-“What the hell? How did I make the cut?”)1:38:17 – The Awl project, “I do not want to FAIL!”1:40:44 – Bolting futuristic projects, thinking anything was possible, and bolting ‘Just Do It’ for a TV show in 19891:48:23 – “I used to visualize before that was what you were supposed to do”1:52:00 – “Fucking hard green route”1:54:15 – Alan’s finger strength, hanging from one hand for (almost) a minute, and gym vs. outdoor climbing2:01:18 – The updated Smith Rock guidebook2:02:26 – Alan’s box of tights2:05:20 – The 100 book list and projecting difficult books2:10:27 – Working on the guidebook and connecting with the people2:15:19 – The (lack of) ways to connect with Alan2:17:01 – A slice of contribution in a little tiny sport2:19:53 – “He’s cheating”, and Alan’s funny recurring dream

Alita Contreras is back on the podcast! We talked about her Fall project in the Red River Gorge, the lessons that routes can teach us, and a film project that she is currently working on with her friend Elisa Varlotta called Guerreras. The film will feature Colombian women and the beautiful local climbing in Colombia.Support the Guerreras GoFundMe!http://gofund.me/47f5487dFollow on [email protected]@alitaclimbing@elisa_varlotta

Merch is here! I am SO excited about how the "hello friends" series turned out. Check out the Nugget shop for t-shirts, hoodies, and hats. All Patrons get free shipping!Buy Merch!thenuggetclimbing.com/shopBecome a Patron and get free shipping!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber, and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more.Check out So Cards!socards.orgUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alayna-joyNuggets:0:06:36 – Julio0:09:27 – Places that feel like home0:16:32 – Feeling like I already know Alayna from watching her channel, and parasocial relationships0:19:37 – Sharing her story to make others feel less alone0:21:39 – Starting her YouTube channel in high school, her first three videos, and hitting 800 subscribers0:27:30 – Working as a server during university, and getting her first YouTube brand deal0:31:38 – The phenomenon of being an introvert and a content creator0:34:39 – Bisexuality, and the first time Alayna came out0:37:54 – Being in a serious relationship with a man, and feeling disconnected from her queerness0:42:54 – Coming out to her partner as gay, and talking herself out of it0:46:25 – The constant little voice in her head convincing her she was happy0:48:08 – “The big oopsie”0:51:26 – Being afraid that she was playing into bisexual stereotypes by coming out as gay0:54:41 – Compulsory heterosexuality (comp het), and why it took Alayna so long to realize she was gay0:58:08 – Why Alayna thought she was demiromantic for most of her adult life1:00:19 – Seeing the world through new eyes1:05:16 – “I’m in therapy, and I’M TIRED!”1:06:05 – Alayna pays me a very nice compliment, and I talk about drawing people in and hoping they learn something that goes beyond rock climbing1:10:43 – I come out as not a lesbian, and Alayna asks everyone listening to ask themselves a question1:12:54 – “Climbing is gay.”1:18:36 – How climbing became an anchor for Alayna1:21:17 – Working on her relationship with climbing1:23:32 – Making quick progress as climbers early on, why our progress slows over time, and the magic of climbing1:32:01 – The stories our brains tell us1:34:36 – So Cards! (socards.org, use code NUGGET for 20% off)1:36:29 – So Cards question 1: “If you never had to worry about money, what’s one goal that you would dedicate yourself to?”1:40:00 – So Cards question 2: “When you were a kid, what scared you about growing up?”1:46:05 – So Cards question 3: “What do you think people tend to take for granted in their relationships?”1:53:14 – You’re not alone, and living your life as your most authentic self1:56:00 – Patron question from Wren: How was your experience finding a queer community within the larger climbing community, and do you have any tips for queer climbers finding these spaces?2:00:26 – Where to find Alayna on the internet

Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/donateCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkinsNuggets:0:05:22 – Todd’s pancake beta0:08:29 – Growing up in the Mormon church0:10:40 – Cannabis0:17:50 – Solar-powered weed smoking0:19:41 – “Get down from there!” and how Todd got introduced to climbing0:23:08 – Getting into route development in the 90s, and learning from Jorge Visser and Randy Leavitt0:28:34 – Developing routes at the Cathedral,0:31:26 – Climbing Planet Earth at the VRG, and progressing from 12a to 14a (7a+ to 8b+) in two years0:33:18 – Chris Sharma’s psych for climbing as a 15-year-old kid0:35:07 – Longevity, gratitude, and being present0:39:08 – Setbacks, trying Golden for a Moment 14b (8c), and using a portable fan 20 years ago0:45:51 – Coming back from hip surgery and other setbacks0:48:28 – More about being present0:56:00 – What motivates Todd in his climbing these days0:57:52 – Having an out-of-body experience on Planet Earth, and other most meaningful ascents0:59:24 – My (Steven’s) two hardest routes and how different those experiences were, and Todd’s thoughts on mental tenacity1:05:24 – Adventure in sport climbing and route development, and Todd’s near-death experience1:11:01 – Spirituality, the intelligence of the cosmos, and the goods and bads of religion1:16:15 – Steven shares some thoughts on the damaging parts of growing up in a religion1:19:37 – What Todd learned from studying Buddhism1:21:00 – Aliens1:33:14 – Nuclear testing in the 50s and 60s1:36:48 – Why Todd never left St George1:39:07 – Plans to try Flight of the Conchords 14c (8c+) this winter1:42:27 – Trusting your intuition, getting lots of sleep, and not pushing too hard1:47:07 – Wrap up, and we should all spend more time thinking about something other than climbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:25:59.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAmity’s Original Episode:EP 104: Amity Warme

Katie Lamb is one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her early climbing and falling in love with bouldering, climbing her first V14 and what led to her breakthrough in the last two years, projecting tips, superpowers, lifting weights, balancing training with outdoor climbing, what it will take for her to reach the next level, and working in climate data science.Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambNuggets:0:05:35 – Getting over being sick, and covid0:09:40 – Sewing0:14:51 – Katie’s lifted Toyota Prius0:18:17 – Her background in sport climbing, falling in love with bouldering, and why she quit competing0:24:05 – Katie’s progression during college from V10 to V140:25:12 – Katie’s climbing philosophy0:28:12 – External pressure vs. internal motivation, and Katie’s experience on Jade V14 (8B+)0:31:11 – The great paradox of performance climbing0:31:59 – Katie’s first V13 (8B), Nothin But Sunshine0:34:22 – Her summer of 2019, and adventure bouldering0:42:37 – Katie’s accomplishments in the past two years, and what she attributes her breakthrough to0:46:01 – Focused sessions, and diving into the nitty gritty0:47:35 – Getting better, getting stronger, and having more time0:50:23 – The balance of indoor training and outdoor climbing0:51:19 – Katie’s superpowers, and growing an inch in her 20s0:54:57 – The mechanics of crimping0:58:58 – Patron question from Justin: How much time does Katie spend trying things that are in her style vs. outside of her style?1:01:32 – What drives Katie to pick specific projects1:02:10 – Injuring her finger in June of 2022, and rehabbing in Rocklands1:08:57 – Sending Book Club V14 (8B+) less than two months after her finger injury1:13:49 – Balancing projecting with quick ticks1:16:41 – Why making excuses can be helpful1:21:08 – Playing the long game with projecting, and going easy on herself1:22:29 – How Katie is training for the next level1:24:27 – Lifting weights1:30:20 – The Never Ready1:31:21 – What will it take for Katie to climb V15?1:34:13 – Patron question from Jacob: When are we going to see a female ascent of V16?1:37:22 – Balancing professional climbing with working in climate science, and how Katie created flexibility in her job1:44:53 – Working in climate data science1:47:25 – What Katie wishes more people knew about climate1:48:40 – What we can do on an individual level to affect the climate (Katie’s answer might surprise you!)1:50:40 – Where our electricity comes from, and the fossil fuel industry1:53:27 – How climate change is putting our electrical grid at risk1:54:51 – Hopeful things happening in climate1:56:43 – How climbers can be leaders in the climate movement1:58:28 – Wrap up

Marisa Michael is a registered dietitian nutritionist with 20 years of experience who specializes in eating disorders in athletes and climbers. We talked about the characteristics of eating disorders, the line between eating for performance and disordered eating, why losing weight won’t make you climb harder, recommendations for climbers and youth athletes, intuitive eating, Marisa’s sweet tooth, and much more.Eating Disorders Helpline:nationaleatingdisorders.org/help-support/contact-helplineListen to more top nutrition episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/marisa-michaelNuggets:0:05:03 – What Marisa had for breakfast0:07:04 – Overview of the conversation to come0:08:37 – The difference between a registered dietitian and a nutritionist0:11:03 – Working with athletes and disordered eating in her practice0:12:32 – Why Marisa chose to specialize in working with athletes who struggle with disordered eating0:15:13 – What Marisa hopes to accomplish in this episode0:17:03 – A bit about my (Steven’s) experience with disordered eating and the biggest question I have for Marisa0:18:44 – What distinguishes an eating disorder or disordered eating?0:23:33 – Discipline and eating for performance vs. disordered eating… Where is the line?0:30:13 – Personifying your eating disorder0:31:57 – How my mindset shifted from self-care to anxiety after losing weight0:35:27 – Discipline doesn’t have to mean ignoring your body cues0:36:25 – What the data says about weight and climbing performance, and why we should all calm down about weight0:38:02 – One thing that might have prevented my eating disorder if I had known them sooner0:39:38 – BMI and finger injuries, and disordered eating in elite climbers0:41:38 – Is weight cycling ever appropriate?0:45:48 – Another thing I wish I had known sooner, and breaking training PRs this summer0:49:03 – Food is fuel, and it’s also more than fuel0:49:58 – “It depends”0:52:03 – Intuitive Eating as a framework0:54:11 – The 10 principles of Intuitive Eating0:56:23 – How to navigate our modern food environment with Intuitive Eating (so you don’t eat Oreos for breakfast)1:01:41 – Marisa’s sweet tooth and she navigates it1:04:52 – Is it ok to celebrate with food after a send?1:06:35 – Marisa’s thoughts on “moderators” and “abstainers”, and the plate of cookies example1:11:57 – How restricting leads to bingeing1:17:04 – Marisa’s general eating recommendations, and recommended macros for climbers1:20:17 – Food timing1:22:03 – Intermittent fasting: yay or nay?1:23:45 – Patron question from Karl: How do you navigate intuitive eating if you don’t get hungry?1:25:15 – How to calculate your daily energy needs1:27:19 – Patron question from Shawn: How do we get enough protein in a healthy way?1:29:10 – Marisa’s thoughts on eating meat1:31:47 – Marisa’s thoughts on eating fat1:32:47 – Patron question from Vicente: Prefered supplements?1:36:47 – Patron question from Jaime: Any tips on how to lose body fat for people who are stuck?1:38:05 – Marisa’s thoughts on the ketogenic diet1:41:57 – Marisa’s thoughts on veganism and vegetarianism1:44:38 – Patron question from Cody: What is a good starting point for someone who is trying to heal an unhealthy relationship with food?1:47:22 – Patron question from Wren: How can all climbers contribute to a healthy environment surrounding food/body image?1:51:13 – How to respond to jokes about food restriction1:53:39 – Are there any foods we should avoid?1:55:43 – Marisa’s master’s thesis, studying eating patterns in youth climbers, and recommendations for parents and coaches2:00:58 – Favorite pre-climbing snack2:02:08 – How important is protein before or during climbing/training?2:03:31 – Studying amenorrhea in female IFSC athletes2:07:47 – “Eat enough.”2:08:53 – Wrap up

Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyligerNuggets:0:06:01 – Camping iterations0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice1:38:27 – The eyeball story1:58:16 – Spain2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)2:19:56 – How to find a good PT2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing2:29:35 – Wrap up

Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. *He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. Congrats Aidan!!!Listen to more top bouldering episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-robertsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:13) – Seasons are shifting(00:08:52) – Prepping for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17 (9A), and setting his replica(00:11:44) – Trying Alphane, and bullet points(00:13:10) – We’ve already planned on a round 2!(00:15:23) – Crushing hard boulders to Elton John, and finding focus through relaxation(00:19:43) – Aidan’s first trip to the Rocklands and leaving competitions behind(00:26:01) – How Aidan developed his style, and how he thinks about training his weaknesses(00:28:02) – Differences among top boulderers, what Aidan learned from climbing with Dave Graham, and the shared trait of perseverance(00:36:10) – Aidan’s climbing style, high-angle crimps, and leg crimping(00:42:41) – How Aidan’s style is different from how Shawn Raboutou climbs(00:46:38) – Redefining what it means to be strong, and making your training specific(00:47:56) – Aidan’s thoughts on why none of the current V17’s (9A’s) have been repeated yet(00:50:18) – Getting away from “simple tasks” and reductionism in training(00:56:24) – How Aidan got so good at his style of climbing and high-angle crimping(01:03:07) – Discovering sling testing with Dan Varian, and training with mono slings(01:07:23) – Summary of how Aidan got so good at his climbing style(01:09:28) – Training in a high-angle position, and how he strengthened his index fingers(01:11:37) – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and testing with Ollie Torr(01:16:09) – How strong is Aidain on the Beastmaker 2000 center edge?(01:18:09) – Why simple finger strength testing doesn’t necessarily apply to our finger strength on the rock(01:22:19) – More about training his index fingers(01:26:21) – Quality and applicability in training(01:28:08) – “There is no rapid magic formula for finger strength”(01:29:07) – How Aidan approaches a project, and collecting bullet points for each move(01:35:01) – Aidan’s pre-send rituals(01:39:01) – Using bullet points to set the replica for Alphane, carving wooden holds, and measuring moves(01:45:59) – Training his legs for Alphane, and Copenhagen planks for abductors(01:47:50) – Using feet follow rules on his board(01:49:57) – Climbing Alphane from two moves in, and how to train for long boulders on a home wall or board(01:59:28) – Going to Finland to try Burden of Dreams V17 (9A), and what he learned from trying it(02:09:49) – Mastery(02:14:17) – Plans to train for Burden of Dreams(02:19:37) – Screwdriver injury(02:22:17) – Aidan’s philosophy with training on replicas, and climbing Isles of Wonder Sit V16 (8C+)(02:27:21) – Balancing highly specific training (replicas) with other training(02:29:48) – Aidan’s formula for goal setting (result, reality, and response)(02:33:09) – His goal setting formula applied to Alphane(02:36:37) – Influence and contribution, and Aidan’s podcast and magazine(02:42:13) – Traveling, and considering our environmental impact as climbers(02:52:24) – Thinking about offsetting my CO2 for my trip to Rocklands next summer(02:55:39) – Plans to live in the US for a year(02:57:21) – Wrap up

Robbie Phillips is a professional adventure climber and filmmaker from Scotland. We talked about his recent trip to the Western Isles of Scotland, his path from competitions to adventure climbing, top rope soloing to project hard routes, things he learned from climbing with Dave MacLeod, processing grief, capturing memories through filmmaking, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robbie-phillipsNuggets:0:07:14 – The Suzuki photo shoot, broken car, and tea without milk0:10:00 – Onsighting the podcast0:10:34 – Robbie’s recent trip to St. Kilda0:16:15 – Rock types and the style of climbing in the Western Isles of Scotland0:21:08 – Climbing a sea cliff in Dùn0:26:27 – Robbie’s path from competition climbing to adventure climbing0:35:12 – Climbing Bellevista 13d/14a (8b/+) in the Dolomites0:38:56 – Imposter syndrome, and not being a natural at bold adventure climbing0:40:48 – Being good at suffering0:42:26 – Following the psych0:45:10 – Patron question from Christoph: How does Robbie train for hard trad climbing specifically?0:47:47 – What We Do in the Shadows E10 (14b/8c)0:50:19 – The E grading system, and why Robbie isn’t a big fan of that system0:55:20 – Indian Creek, and Robbie’s first day “flailing around” in Yosemite0:57:06 – Patron question from Christoph: What does Robbie do to steel his mind for scary leads?1:00:08 – Robbie’s almost life-altering accident when he started trad climbing, and the lesson he learned1:03:44 – Breakdown of What We Do in the Shadows1:11:06 – The process of projecting the route, his dad passing away, and the darkest period of his life1:18:37 – How Robbie’s mom is doing now1:20:32 – Robbie’s dad1:26:32 – A few things Robbie learned from projecting with Dave MacLeod1:33:46 – Why Robbie prefers working projects via top rope solo, and why he loves the Taz LOV31:49:02 – Balancing performance with having fun1:53:52 – The Long Hope, and fulmars2:02:06 – Robbie’s filmmaking, and capturing memories2:14:18 – How Robbie makes a living2:16:10 – I respect all the other podcasters!2:17:02 – Why the new Long Hope film was so fun to work on, and entering it in the Kendal Mountain Festival2:22:02 – Patron question from GeneO: Why does Robbie consider himself a professional climber but not a professional athlete?2:24:59 – Upcoming climbing goals2:28:02 – Does Robbie want to try Lexicon?2:30:34 – Wrap up

Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwellNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:07:08) – What is your Dawn Wall?(00:07:59) – Tommy’s injury and his canceled trip to Germany(00:09:53) – Tommy’s Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability(00:15:21) – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy’s climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)(00:17:35) – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO(00:20:17) – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor(00:23:05) – Matty Hong’s repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy’s thoughts on the grade(00:25:20) – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris(00:28:48) – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering(00:30:04) – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do(00:31:56) – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?(00:34:00) – Patron Question from Atlin: What’s the next big objective that hasn’t been done in Yosemite?(00:35:16) – Leo Houlding’s vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold(00:38:46) – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainebleau(00:41:13) – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches(00:46:42) – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?(00:47:55) – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?(00:52:18) – Tommy’s TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything(00:55:17) – Toenail fungus, and Tommy’s experience with Lamasil(00:58:59) – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work(01:01:15) – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad(01:08:38) – Tommy’s parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”(01:12:13) – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?(01:13:53) – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?(01:19:16) – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?(01:20:40) – The story behind Tommy’s repeated achilles injury(01:25:25) – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?(01:27:22) – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos(01:29:26) – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?(01:30:27) – The king line on El Cap(01:34:45) – Future linkups in Yosemite(01:36:57) – Tommy’s favorite Disney movie(01:37:36) – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience(01:40:19) – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners(01:42:35) – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?(01:42:58) – Big wall pooping stories(01:45:22) – Another book?(01:46:34) – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine(01:49:31) – Wrap up

Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hillNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:27) – Lynn’s technique video(00:12:58) – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique(00:16:47) – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo(00:18:53) – Having the vision to free climb The Nose(00:21:01) – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out(00:28:07) – Being famous before the internet(00:29:48) – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people(00:33:33) – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French(00:38:01) – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship(00:42:33) – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian(00:50:24) – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now(00:56:22) – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose(01:00:33) – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey(01:06:11) – Why The Nose was such a special experience(01:08:53) – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts(01:11:14) – Breathing and screaming(01:14:12) – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose(01:23:41) – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch(01:28:11) – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free(01:32:07) – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it(01:35:56) – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon(01:40:01) – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse(01:41:59) – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index)(01:43:29) – Advice for shorter climbers(01:45:53) – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s(01:53:14) – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart(01:55:58) – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path(01:59:07) – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days(02:03:09) – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber(02:07:56) – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear?(02:13:33) – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today?(02:15:23) – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon(02:21:59) – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women?(02:29:07) – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move(02:32:20) – Other women Lynn has mentored(02:33:51) – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing footwork?(02:36:12) – Patron Question from Christoph: Can Lynn speak about the mental side of pushing boundaries?(02:41:32) – Patron Question from Emily: How did Lynn learn to be independent from the limiting gendered cues coming from society at the time in order to realize her true potential?(02:44:33) – Lynn’s positive affirmations, challenging societal norms as a teenager, and seeing injustice in the world(02:51:12) – Patron Question from Mark: Have women reached parody in climbing? If not, what can be done?(02:58:45) – What Lynn is most excited about right now, her Italian name, and the value of learning other languages(03:02:26) – Feeling excited about her new route on The Maiden, and ideas for her next trip to France(03:05:32) – More about the documentary Lynn is working on(03:09:04) – Where to buy “It goes boys” shirts, and signed photos from Lynn!(03:11:0

My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-6Nuggets:0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor!0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited:0:03:00 – Metal Game0:06:09 – Watching Videos0:09:55 – Visualization0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan)0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises0:28:37 – Getting Creative0:29:41 – One-Time Coaching Calls0:30:24 – How to connect with Tay!0:30:59 – Patron Questions:0:30:59 – Hakan’s Question: Any nuggets for nighttime bouldering sessions?0:36:42 – Cody’s Question: Training recommendations for a 5.10 mountain guide, and biggest bang-for-your-buck strength training exercise for climbing?0:43:19 – Justin’s Question: How often do you look at other people's beta videos when you're trying a boulder or sport climb? Do you ever avoid them on purpose?0:49:57 – Toby’s comment and the benefit of taking notes on podcasts/books/etc0:57:06 – Sytse’s Question: Do you still do Emil Abrahamsson’s twice-a-day hangboard protocol?1:00:26 – Murpheys_law24: How do you warm up for max hangs on a lifting day?1:04:25 – Briana’s Question: Do “old sends” count for your current pyramid? And thoughts on the 1-2-4-8-16 pyramid vs. 1-3-9-27?