The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenziNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi(00:05:37) – Early climbing(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength(00:29:17) – External pressure(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C(00:36:09) – Optimism(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals(01:17:31) – Future competition plans(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b(01:42:18) – Support from his dad(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between moments make up our experience, what it took to make the film, future film projects, and much more!Watch the Film:SENDING | MHWsending.filmBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 212: Carlos Mason — Uncut Video!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-masonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Carlos’ introduction to climbing(00:04:49) – Getting into filmmaking(00:06:09) – Bishop(00:11:34) – His vision for the film(00:14:59) – Cars(00:21:21) – Writing the narrative(00:28:31) – Friends(00:36:55) – Choosing the cast(00:47:28) – Choosing the climbs(00:52:16) – Ethan’s bat hang(00:55:25) – Dan and ‘The Process’(01:04:46) – Choosing the music(01:14:55) – Post-production(01:21:38) – Recording VO(01:24:57) – Behind-the-scenes content(01:29:05) – Where to watch the film(01:29:32) – What’s next for Carlos(01:31:54) – Thanks and sponsors(01:33:57) – How lucky we are to climb

Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/davis-ngoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:40) – Photo collages(00:03:36) – Bishop(00:06:21) – My introduction to dr.climb(00:07:52) – Growing up(00:12:11) – Getting into climbing(00:14:01) – Becoming a Physical Therapist(00:16:47) – Graduating during covid(00:18:48) – Blowing up on Instagram(00:22:24) – 69k(00:23:51) – Playing the game(00:32:09) – Who deserves to get paid in climbing?(00:44:42) – The progression of climbing(00:49:11) – Davis’ career(00:51:49) – Overwhelmed(00:54:15) – Self-esteem and social media(01:03:04) – Doing what you love(01:06:15) – Inclusion and giving back(01:09:26) – ‘Haroun’ as his first V11(01:12:41) – A year of injuries(01:18:01) – What changed after his back injury(01:23:49) – Backing off sketchy topouts(01:26:34) – “I just f*cking love it.”(01:35:25) – Overcoming fear after his back injury(01:41:54) – Trying highballs again(01:46:13) – Internet break(01:47:34) – SAMI sponsorship(01:52:03) – Creating a bouldering competition in Bishop(01:58:49) – How to support Davis(02:01:47) – Name suggestions(02:02:55) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:28) – Young Stefano(00:08:18) – Humor and fun(00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing(00:14:20) – The whole process(00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence’ 9c(00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible(00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence’(00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence’ and ‘Excalibur’ 9b+(00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence’(00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance(00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur’ and ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A(00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur’ with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi(01:02:14) – The sword earring(01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur’ got its name(01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble’ 8c+/9a(01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history(01:14:48) – Stefano’s climbing heroes(01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil’ 9a+(01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength(01:22:52) – Sara’s health challenges(01:29:29) – Supporting one another(01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Uncut Video!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/graham-zimmermanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Daddy style(00:03:59) – Mt. Bradley(00:12:23) – The recipe for success(00:14:32) – How I related to the book(00:19:03) – Graham’s injury in New Zealand(00:21:54) – The Burger King story(00:24:04) – Falling for mountains(00:30:24) – The mystery of passion(00:32:07) – Mark Allen(00:40:45) – What makes alpinism hard?(00:44:04) – The logistics of mountain ascents(00:48:11) – Building a relationship with places(00:52:09) – The 100-Year Plan(00:57:48) – Shannon(01:04:06) – Compromise and purpose(01:08:30) – Getting engaged(01:16:13) – Loss and risk(01:25:58) – K2 and climate(01:34:16) – Imperfect advocacy(01:43:15) – Voting(01:50:40) – Energy and water(01:51:39) – POW(01:52:29) – Don’t stop climbing(01:54:11) – Graham’s book and EXTRA teaser

Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic prep with his job, soft robotics, and more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Uncut Video!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-grupperNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:44) – Infusions for Ulcerative Colitis(00:06:40) – Jesse’s nomadic lifestyle(00:08:26) – Training trips(00:18:30) – Almost quitting competitions(00:23:05) – Getting bullied for climbing as a kid(00:27:45) – Climbing as an art form(00:30:12) – Asking yourself questions(00:38:05) – Optimistic Training(00:45:05) – Pessimism is lazy(00:47:54) – Frustration(00:50:58) – Support(00:53:16) – Each of us is a body of water(00:57:20) – Was Jesse a natural at climbing?(01:00:07) – Turning around his bouldering(01:04:44) – Strategy for the Olympics(01:07:47) – Training with circuits(01:13:40) – Balance(01:21:12) – Soft robotics(01:30:48) – “Take it easy, but take it.”(01:32:17) – What Jesse wishes we thought more about(01:35:20) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest boulders, plans to try Megatron V17 and return to Terranova V16 and Excalibur 5.15c, what he plans to try next, and more!Will’s Original Episode:EP 166: Will Bosi

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:28) – Topics covered(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries(00:16:21) – Stress shielding(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?(01:09:18) – Playing the long game(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard(00:15:22) – Sleep(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles(00:27:34) – Deloads(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?(01:14:14) – Training on the replica(01:22:21) – How to train on your project(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders(01:59:08) – Imposing demands(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Kai Lightner is back on to talk about his recent send of 'Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a at the Hurricave! We talked about the emotional rollercoaster of sending 'LOV', how it felt to send 9a in his current body, not rushing the process, his trip to Jamaica, bolting his first route, what's going on with Climbing 4 Change, and more!Donate to C4C:climbing4change.orgKai’s Original Episode:EP 55: Kai LightnerNuggets:(00:00:00) – Kai’s upcoming trip and project(00:03:41) – Self-preservation(00:05:11) – The emotional rollercoaster of ‘Life of Villains’ 5.14d/9a(00:07:57) – How it felt to send ‘LOV’ in his current body(00:13:40) – Not rushing the process(00:16:50) – Expanding his technical arsenal(00:18:15) – Bad weather, broken holds, and the send(00:23:07) – His trip to Jamaica(00:27:00) – Building a climbing gym in the National Training Center(00:28:42) – Bolting his first route(00:33:31) – The food(00:35:34) – What’s going on with C4C(00:37:49) – Paying it forward(00:41:35) – How to support C4C(00:45:47) – Testifying in Washington to get climbing gyms recognized as sports facilities(00:54:02) – Bouldering with Drew Ruana, and negative temperatures

Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-vanoniNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:04) – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones(00:05:16) – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14(00:07:42) – Geeking out about ‘Badman’ 5.14a(00:08:40) – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects(00:11:04) – Little Si, and a new crag in WA(00:13:30) – Adrian’s lifestyle(00:16:04) – The glamorous life of an amateur climber(00:20:29) – His beginnings in trad climbing(00:23:29) – Developing the skills to free El Cap(00:24:16) – Freeing ‘Golden Gate’ ground up with Sam Stroh(00:26:14) – Comparing his and Sam’s tick lists(00:30:54) – Putting ‘El Corazon’ in a day into context(00:40:44) – Will’s impressive belay season(00:41:25) – Blue-collar sending(00:46:39) – ‘Mr. Chicken’(00:53:38) – Trying hard is trainable(00:58:50) – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress(01:00:59) – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey(01:04:00) – Sending ‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b(01:10:25) – Training for Cobra on the campus board(01:17:31) – Visualization and lucid dreaming(01:21:30) – More ‘Badman’ beta(01:25:01) – The nuance of resting on sport routes(01:29:09) – Beta depends on context(01:35:58) – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend’(02:00:24) – The style of big wall ascents(02:10:06) – Street credit(02:18:07) – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend’ 5.14-(02:22:56) – Goal routes and boulders(02:31:42) – Social media vs. inspiration(02:39:41) – Not everything is for everyone(02:45:54) – My climbing as a more public person(02:49:26) – Growing to meet a route where it is(02:51:26) – Get on the hard thing you want to do(02:57:57) – ‘Freerider’ in a day(03:13:19) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60nugget" at checkout for 60% off plus 20% off your next two months!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anak-verhoevenNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:14) – Living in a small motorhome with her parents on long trips(00:06:40) – Anak’s 9a and harder resume, and her level of fame in Belgium(00:10:03) – How Anak makes a living(00:13:51) – The advantages of doing everything herself(00:15:48) – How her mom and dad became her coach and trainer(00:17:58) – Practicing her autograph as a kid(00:20:13) – Competing in her first international competition(00:22:34) – Struggling in early competitions, and navigating disappointment(00:25:54) – Setting the bar high(00:27:47) – Family meetings(00:31:24) – Rest days, exercises, and hair washing(00:37:04) – Leading her first route at age 4(00:41:08) – Getting injured and falling in love with climbing(00:44:19) – The variety within climbing(00:50:50) – Why Anak quit competitions(00:56:51) – Anak’s strange arm injury(01:06:46) – Working on her shoulder mobility(01:10:21) – Keeping her arm injury a secret(01:14:08) – Current status of her arm(01:17:05) – Understanding what folks with chronic illness go through(01:20:59) – What does Anak miss the most about competitions?(01:25:46) – Longer trips, and the stress of competitions(01:30:43) – Winning her first World Cup in Arco(01:34:05) – The satisfaction of sending Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda(01:42:15) – Getting fresh air during competitions(01:44:59) – Anak’s training shed(01:47:57) – Training on the same routes for 3 years, and motivation vs. fancy facilities(01:53:01) – Anak’s strategy for onsighting comp routes(01:57:11) – Making up rules at the gym(02:01:36) – How Anak built her endurance(02:07:15) – Mental endurance(02:11:27) – 9b and trad climbing goals for 2024(02:14:43) – Why she is open about her faith(02:22:33) – How do climbers react to her faith?(02:29:46) – The pressure I felt as a kid to spread faith, and moving away from religion(02:33:09) – How Anak thinks about sharing her faith, and her lack of judgment toward other people(02:34:57) – Choosing her faith for herself(02:37:57) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubertNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style(00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’(01:18:28) – Speed training(01:20:02) – Recovery(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it(01:25:48) – Greedy(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!Jon’s Original Episode:EP 50: Jon CardwellReferences:Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+EP 169: Scott JohnstonTraining for the Uphill Athlete (book)Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’(00:35:53) – Constantly learning(00:40:42) – More about his training(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?(01:07:12) – Wrap up

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!Check out C4HP or Schedule an Appointment With Tyler!camp4humanperformance.comc4hpschedule.as.meBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:03) – The donut festival(00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts(00:14:21) – Outline of topics(00:16:17) – Finger training topics(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination(00:49:23) – Summary of our session(00:50:21) – When to end a session(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind(01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?(01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?(02:07:46) – Takeaways(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits(02:14:41) – The future of finger training(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways(02:37:05) – Wrap up

James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/james-pearsonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Getting settled(00:03:13) – Why I feel like I know James(00:05:33) – Introducing the Redemption Story(00:08:10) – Internet backlash(00:10:05) – Coming full circle(00:13:33) – Why it felt important to grade ‘Bon Voyage’(00:17:10) – The full story(00:28:47) – Compassion for himself(00:30:53) – Moving to Innsbruck to work on his sport climbing(00:36:05) – Thinking his pro climbing life was over, meeting Caroline, and their trip to Turkey(00:41:18) – Learning how to train(00:46:33) – 7b+ to 8c+ in 6 months(00:52:32) – Fun and performance(00:53:23) – E grades(00:56:16) – Trying to flash E10 in Pembrook, and falling in love with climbing again(00:59:43) – Returning to ‘Rhapsody’(01:02:10) – Flashing V13 (8B), and his struggle with projecting pressure(01:08:50) – Climbing V15, craving the next level, and living the pro climber dream with Caro(01:17:10) – Why he left the UK, and why it felt important to return to ‘Rhapsody’(01:24:53) – Searching for his hardest trad route(01:25:59) – Making the Redemption film(01:29:21) – eGrader, and understanding E12 and beyond(01:35:47) – Climbing a 9a right after ‘Bon Voyage’(01:37:15) – Talking to Hazel Findlay, and PTSD(01:38:58) – Presenting E12 again 15 years later(01:45:04) – Backlash about grades, and Anna Hazelnutt’s thoughts about Walk of Life(01:49:02) – Breaking down E12 and ‘Bon Voyage’(02:00:53) – Finding ‘Bon Voyage’(02:08:08) – How dangerous is ‘Bon Voyage’?(02:20:23) – Being more scientific about grades(02:24:54) – Why give ‘Bon Voyage’ an E grade?(02:38:44) – Becoming a dad(02:47:47) – What kids taught him(02:53:57) – Rules for climbing with kids, and sending without expectations(02:58:17) – Tips for climbers with kids(03:03:36) – James’ advice for his younger self(03:11:15) – Climbing matters(03:16:45) – Accepting some selfishness, and Caro’s mom(03:23:36) – Training with Ollie Torr for ‘Bon Voyage’, and Caro’s journey back to hard climbing after pregnancy

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutouNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training(00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests(00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology(00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing(00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training(00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach(00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?(00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing(00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music(00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates(00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris(00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?(00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture(00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing(01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions(01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy(01:10:15) – Meditation and breath(01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS(01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup(01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing(01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?(01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers(01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson(01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?(01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions(01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training(01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention(01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game(01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget250Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-mattNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro/Ads(00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones(00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for(00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced(00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps(00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)(00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--(00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview(00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence(00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good(00:27:35) – The Hammer(00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail(00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer(00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong(00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset(00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)(00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing(00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners(00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit(00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary(00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention(00:53:41) – Checking your ego(00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing --INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--(00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview(00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades(01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!”(01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber(01:05:24) – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years(01:07:14) – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story(01:10:09) – Trying hard vs. trying well(01:12:10) – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing(01:13:30) – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working(01:17:54) – Intermediate | Strong Not Good(01:18:51) – Chunking(01:20:25) – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta(01:22:47) – The guess and check model, and turning new dials(01:25:21) – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line(01:27:50) – Hip in vs. square drill(01:29:43) – Building a process for problem-solving(01:30:16) – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber(01:33:38) – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training(01:39:20) – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers(01:43:00) – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy(01:48:20) – Separating practice, training, and performance(01:50:11) – Intermediate | Good Not Strong(01:50:11) – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first(01:56:34) – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves(02:03:19) – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray(02:04:33) – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position(02:07:12) – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train(02:10:31) – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun--ADVANCED STARTS HERE--(02:16:25) – Advanced | Overview(02:18:41) – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic(02:21:46) – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong(02:23:57) – Occupying the position(02:29:14) – Mobility and sensation(02:33:33) – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta(02:37:57) – The Golfer study(02:41:00) – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics(02:43:23) – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete(02:46:31) – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usai

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned to climbing and sent his first V10 and V11. We talked about his accident, getting a full knee replacement, how he made a full recovery, his incredible wife Katie, why he swims four times per week, treating yourself like you have the V17 gene, taking responsibility for your life, the interplay of luck and hard work, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/protectBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/travis-tameiraoNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:07:14 – Having a son at 19, semi-pro boxing and bartending to make ends meet, and getting into climbing0:13:31 – Maintaining his own identity once he became a dad0:15:40 – Getting obsessed with climbing, and being reckless out of ignorance0:24:51 – The full story of Travis’ accident on August 13th, 20180:35:20 – Getting his knee reconstructed in December 2019, and losing his Tibial Plateau0:38:31 – The possibility of amputation, and choosing an experimental procedure0:44:18 – Living in constant pain, surgery as a trauma, and holding onto hope0:47:21 – Having a full knee replacement, and feeling like he was given a death sentence0:49:52 – The limitations of Western medicine0:51:55 – Waking up without pain0:53:56 – The gift of walking, and reclaiming his life0:56:55 – Working on regaining his range of motion, and reconnecting with climbing1:05:05 – Getting hurt again sport climbing in Rumney1:09:39 – Losing friends and community during his recovery, and proposing to his wife Katie1:17:40 – The first time he asked Katie out1:20:57 – Gratitude for Katie, and being with a partner through the hard times1:23:41 – Hiking around Mont Blanc on their honeymoon1:26:39 – Focusing on work while he was recovering, and appreciation for the support1:27:40 – Regaining his full range of motion, and climbing his first V10 outside1:31:42 – Mr. Miyagi and the pistol squat1:33:04 – Climbing his first V11, leaving areas better than you found them, and finding boulders in Rhode Island1:36:22 – “Don’t get injured”, learning how to fall, and being unsure of the takeaway1:38:33 – The guy in the wheelchair, and wondering if he is blowing his second chance1:43:01 – Choosing to live a rich and passionate life, the fountain of youth, and facing mortality1:48:10 – A backlog of games and books, and wanting to live forever1:54:19 – Accepting support from Katie, hard conversations, and the transition in their relationship after his recovery2:03:08 – Mothers and empty nests, Travis’ parents relationship, and the feeling of firsts2:07:45 – What climbing means to Travis now, and why Travis swims 4 days per week2:10:46 – Long-term climbing goals, and sponsoring himself2:14:43 – Growing up a block away from his wife, and all of the things climbing has brought him2:17:24 – Treating yourself like you have the V17 gene2:19:15 – How Travis made a full recovery when many others didn’t, drawing inspiration from anime, and being the main character in your own story2:26:43 – Taking the wheel, and advocating for yourself2:32:14 – Sharing his story, and being a resource2:36:46 – Kind words about the podcast2:39:58 – Luck and hard work2:42:26 – More kind words2:45:32 – Iontophoresis2:47:01 – Wrap up and Travis’ phone number

Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest competition she has ever done, how to use nerves to focus and thrive, training for Nationals, praising effort, her fueling strategy, gaining weight to be more powerful, Alex Johnson’s hype shirt, balancing training with fueling and mental health, choosing good over perfect, upcoming goals, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanza-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:04:40 – Recovery from her foot surgery, and sweeping the National Championships in Boise Idaho0:07:05 – Trying a new approach with fueling and training0:08:17 – A message about Melina from Tyson Schoene0:09:55 – Why Nationals was the hardest competition Melina has ever done, and finding flow in the sport climbing final0:16:00 – Training primarily for bouldering, and proving to herself that she is a better climber than before0:21:39 – The limit is higher when you focus on getting stronger vs. lighter0:23:28 – The nerves and joy of competitions, and a weight lifted0:29:10 – Training for lead and bouldering at the same time, and her training phases before Nationals0:34:51 – How she won lead despite her lack of power endurance after getting covid, and the mental side of competition0:37:11 – Praising her effort more than her performance0:41:21 – Effort is trainable0:42:48 – How Melina’s fueling strategy has changed, eating more carbs on comp days, and Sour Patch Kids0:51:13 – Gaining weight to be more powerful0:54:06 – What Melina does when she has dark thoughts around eating, and how to know when you’re “overtraining”0:58:51 – Knowing when to take more rest vs. put your head down and do the work1:01:51 – Doing every part of your training for a reason1:06:30 – “You just have to go to win.”1:10:55 – Coming out last in finals, and pressure as a privilege1:13:46 – Alex Johnson’s shirt1:16:03 – Balancing training, fueling, and mental health, and choosing good over perfect1:19:01 – What Melina would tell others who struggle with eating disorders1:22:07 – The false promise of success, achieving your goals while being true to who you are, carrying guilt, and giving each other permission to be imperfect1:27:37 – Surrounding yourself with people who love you unconditionally1:29:55 – Melina’s goals1:33:11 – Melina’s thoughts on the Paris Olympics, and the 2028 Olympic games1:35:56 – Thanks to Melina for bringing us along on her journey1:37:16 – Check out this week’s Patreon bonus episode for more fun facts with Melina!

Pete Whittaker is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. We talked about his current trip to Moab trying Stranger Than Fiction, how he trained for the FA of Crown Royale 9a, the skills needed to climb cutting-edge cracks, why he is still working on improving at ring locks, the futuristic Crucifix Project, his most fun/rewarding/miserable/traumatic trips with Tom Randall, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetHoliday Sale going on now with up to 25% off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/pete-whittakerNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:34 – Pete’s breakfast and voice0:06:29 – Pete and Tom’s current mission in Moab, and what makes that area so unique0:10:02 – Goals on trips, and working on ring locks as a weakness0:12:22 – How Pete and Tom ring lock differently0:14:57 – Pete’s book on crack climbing techniques0:15:56 – Trying Mason Earl’s route Stranger Than Fiction0:20:14 – Breakdown and progress on Stranger Than Fiction0:21:58 – Pete’s first visit to the Profile Wall in Norway to try Recovery Drink, and working his way through the established free routes0:27:54 – The style of climbing on the Profile Wall, and the skills needed to climb hard there0:30:08 – Placing 17 pieces of gear on the 100m Crown Royale 9a0:32:35 – Breakdown of Crown Royale 9a, and running it out on the send0:38:13 – Pete’s process on Crown, and projecting the top half as its own pitch0:40:42 – How Pete and Tom decide which projects to try together vs. individually0:43:19 – The most FUN trip with Tom (Century Crack trip)0:45:20 – The most MISERABLE trip with Tom (Bridge Boys)0:46:21 – The most TRAUMATIZING trip with Tom (Yosemite)0:49:09 – The most REWARDING trips with Tom (exploring the White Rim)0:50:27 – The Crucifix project0:53:26 – How Pete trained for Crown Royale 9a0:57:06 – Embracing the suck, why Pete is good at resting in stressful positions, and training stamina as a kid1:00:17 – Pete’s early climbing, venturing into more dangerous routes as a teenager, and doing the first ascent of an E9 at age 17 with his mom on belay1:06:12 – Why Pete loves offwidthing, and other styles of climbing that involve lots of suffering1:10:42 – How geeky is Pete about training?1:13:10 – Adding structure, and training with Lattice for Crown Royale1:14:51 – Shoulder conditioning for Crown, and what exercises he plans to continue doing1:17:51 – Keeping tabs on the world’s hardest trad routes, and Pete’s thoughts on trying Tribe1:20:09 – How Pete picks objectives and goals, and riding the waves1:23:07 – Pete’s recent trip to Yosemite with Mari1:25:37 – Using Darth Grader to suggest the grade of 9a for Crown Royale1:34:33 – How Pete’s experience with Crown Royale compared to Recovery Drink1:37:33 – Unclimbed lines on the Profile Wall, and where the name “Crown Royale” came from1:39:26 – Check out the Patron-only EXTRA with the Wide Boyz!

Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.Subscribe to Matt’s YouTube Channel!youtube.com/@MattSegalOfficialBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 20170:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals0:57:10 – Try hard0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan1:22:02 – Tough gainer1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with1:32:47 – Wrap up

Will Anglin is an expert boulderer and the founder of Tension Climbing. I love the way this guy thinks, and there are many nuggets in this episode. We talked about the key principles of climbing hard, the most common confusion points about training for climbing, why we should treat climbing like baseball, the number one thing all climbers should do, the evolution of Tension, why it took 10+ years to develop the Tension Board 2 (TB2), why every detail matters when building a new product, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget250Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-anglinNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:06 – Eggs and espresso0:06:55 – Focus on protein to save mental energy0:09:49 – Cat litter0:10:56 – Two main topics I want to cover with Will0:13:06 – An email I sent Will in 2015, and why I transitioned away from the Anderson brothers’ way of training0:17:49 – Will’s early climbing, youth competitions, wanting to be strong, and getting into training0:26:28 – Will’s first time deep water soloing at Summersville Lake0:27:57 – Trad climbing in the Black Canyon0:31:26 – Pivoting to bouldering, and the bouldering vs. sport climbing in Colorado0:35:56 – Why Will has spent more time developing boulders than sport climbs, and why people chip routes0:40:02 – Chipping in bouldering, and suspending your disbelief0:47:09 – Why the “best way to train” is not a useful concept0:54:26 – Why it doesn’t make sense to copy the pros0:55:48 – The baseball analogy0:59:04 – Why your hangboarding should change over the course of your climbing career1:00:13 – Working on skills at sub-maximal intensity, and learning to connect training with rock climbing skill development1:03:44 – “Keep the goal the goal.” - Dan John1:05:19 – The best climbers are the most adaptable climbers1:09:01 – Will’s ‘Hangboarding: A Way’ article, and the most common confusion points and questions that Will gets about advice he’s given in the past1:10:59 – Why you shouldn’t take time away from your climbing time to do more strength training1:14:48 – It’s normal to fail on climbs that are easier than your max redpoint grade1:17:04 – Why I started seeking out more “basic” power climbs, and how modern training is affecting outdoor bouldering grades1:19:37 – How styles and grades evolve over time1:24:15 – “The concept of a well-rounded climber moves.”1:25:52 – Why people used to say Joe’s Valley is soft, and how gym climbing shapes our conception of climbing1:30:35 – Conflating doability with difficulty, and finding the beta that fits you1:33:51 – Why Will feels like he learned how to climb in Gunnison, and the value of climbing on different rock types1:35:54 – Discovering that hard climbs can be fun, and wow traveling has allowed me to discover what I actually enjoy most in climbing1:39:39 – Why grades tend to become more confusing as you progress, and the weirdness at the top-level grades1:43:09 – The unconstrained nature of climbing, and box checking1:49:07 – “It’s not about the exercise.”1:54:00 – “The number one thing is go rock climbing.”2:00:54 – How not all climbing styles are created equal in the way they develop you as a climber, and why I’m so impressed with the Tension Board 22:04:43 – Our culture’s obsession with climbing, and validating climbing just because it’s fun2:07:23 – The Climbing Community is Imaginary2:08:49 – There are many valid ways to “be a climber”2:11:14 – How Will feels about climbing after building Tension, having no breaks from it, and creating separation between his personal climbing and his business2:13:59 – One of Will’s main priorities with Tension, having a life outside of Tension and climbing, playing musical instruments, having carpal tunnel, and building guitars2:20:12 – The evolution of Tension, and how the company started2:28:56 – How the Flash Board came to be2:30:49 – More about the development of the Tension Board 22:36:54 – Designing the holds for the TB2, and why the design process should start with the raw materials2:42:24 – Getting benighted in the Black Canyon2:48:31 – “Everything fucking matters.”2:50:29 – Take the time to build a solid foundation2:52:48 – Wrap up

Mat Wright has quickly established himself as one of the best trad climbers in Britain and is a world-class all-rounder having climbed E11, 5.14c, and V15. We talked about his humble beginnings in low-income government housing, teaching himself how to rope solo as a teenager, reaching V13 and 5.14c in his first three years of climbing, pivoting to hardcore trad climbing, his upcoming film in the Brit Rock Film Tour, and much more!Get Your Tickets for Brit Rock! (Streaming Nov 9-13)britrockfilmtour.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wrightNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:35 – Why Mat wears sunglasses when he climbs0:07:02 – Mat’s difficult upbringing, and growing up in a council estate (low-income government housing)0:11:41 – Meeting his dad at 13 and moving in with him, and how Mat got himself into rock climbing0:15:47 – Building a board in his mom’s back garden, and sending 8c+ and 8B (5.14c and V13) within his first 3 years of climbing0:17:21 – What climbing brought to Mat’s life0:19:51 – Neil Gresham’s masterclass videos, and setting his eyes on Hubble0:23:13 – Sending Hubble, and the negative side of punching the clock on projects0:29:39 – Being optimistic, and why Mat resonates with hard scary trad climbing0:32:39 – The line between optimism vs. recklessness0:35:17 – How Mat “caught up” with his education, and the appeal of climbing for someone with a busy mind0:39:39 – Mat’s partner Anna Taylor, and her role in The House of the Gods film (I said Argentina but it was in Venezuela)0:41:37 – Coasteering with Anna0:45:40 – Wildlife, nerding out, and how he and Anna relax0:47:28 – Living in a van, fingerboarding, and going with the flow with his climbing0:49:25 – Sprinting toward a goal, and spending 60-70% of his time chilling0:54:34 – What Mat’s training looked like early on, how it’s evolved over time, and addressing specific weaknesses0:57:34 – Understanding your climbing pace, and the dance of sport climbing1:00:24 – How Mat guides his clients with their climbing pace1:06:19 – Our tendance to overthink things, and not believe in ourselves1:08:29 – The power of specific goals, and asking yourself what you really want to get out of climbing1:12:35 – Balancing short-term and long-term goals1:16:51 – How to get coaching from Mat1:18:21 – Climbing his first V15 shortly after Hubble, and pivoting to trad and sending Lexicon E111:23:03 – The reaction to him sending Lexicon1:26:27 – Feeling desensitized to exposure, and early free soloing1:28:24 – The effect that online comments have on real people1:32:31 – Our brains’ negative bias, and trolling as an outlet for frustration1:35:21 – Anna’s harassment, and Mat’s controversial reputation1:40:29 – What happens when you respond to negative comments with kindness1:42:36 – Stepping into a protective role for his partner, and losing his sponsors1:44:29 – Mat as a Berghaus athlete1:49:19 – Mat’s film ‘Hard Git’ in the upcoming Brit Rock Film Tour1:55:49 – A deep dive into Mat’s FA of Magical Thinking E10, and finding flow on the send2:01:13 – Mat’s FA of Black Thistle E10, and converting E grades to the American YDS grades2:04:04 – The animalistic nature of trad, why the Brits don’t bolt everything, and the American healthcare system2:07:35 – Challenge vs. difficulty2:10:26 – James Pearson as the best trad climber in the world, and Mat’s kinship to Dave MacLeod2:12:25 – Mat and I each talk about our experiences trying the keto diet2:16:18 – I recap my story with disordered eating and recovery, and Mat describes his experience with burnout after Hubble2:22:05 – What happened with Rhapsody, and his thoughts on returning2:27:21 – Mat’s rope solo setup2:29:43 – Go-to music2:30:15 – Mat’s dream climbing expedition, the adventure and fun of climbing, and sending Gaia E82:34:46 – Think more about yourself and less about other people2:35:44 – Cycle touring, and Mat’s thoughts on taking long breaks from climbing2:42:36 – Where to connect with Mat, and details about the upcoming Brit Rock Film Tour

Alex Biale is an elite boulderer based in CO. We talked about his family legacy of bootlegging wine in Napa Valley, how he got into climbing, his legendary training with Jon Glassberg, pushing himself to the breaking point to send V14, seriously injuring his knee, working with Ollie Torr to overhaul his style and become stronger than ever, the keys to a balanced and happy life, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bialeNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:34 – Steak and wine0:06:16 – Alex’s connection to the Jon Glassberg and Ollie Torr episodes0:07:37 – Alex’s upbringing in Napa, his family legacy of bootlegging wine, and the origin story of Black Chicken0:12:21 – Working in the vineyard as a kid, and growing up surrounded by family0:15:36 – Alex’s dad, and doing family backpacking trips to Tahoe0:20:02 – Getting into climbing0:21:59 – Parallels to the Josh Champion episode, looking up to CA climbers, getting into highballing, and putting V13 and V1 4 on a pedestal0:31:01 – Training with Jon Glassberg0:35:11 – Sending Mind to Motion V14, breaking from the training, and feeling lost after achieving his goal0:39:59 – Climbing classic V8s in Leavenworth, rediscovering his love for climbing, and adopting a beginners mindset0:47:58 – History, aesthetics, the amount of climbing in CO, and redefining challenge0:51:56 – Desiring to become a well-rounded climber0:58:23 – What gets people stuck, and being honest about what you want from climbing1:03:20 – Combining strengths and weaknesses1:09:32 – The perfect storm of training with Jon1:13:20 – Playing the long game, and drawing inspiration from Martin Keller1:17:33 – Why you shouldn’t train like a pro climber (unless you’re a pro climber)1:22:50 – The advice Alex got from Will Anglin, and climbing with rules1:34:42 – Why Alex hired Ollie Torr to coach him1:45:43 – What’s different about training with Ollie on a principle level1:52:24 – Injurying his knee, and transforming his climbing style2:00:26 – The keys to staying consistent with climbing and training, and the value of a spray wall2:16:12 – The keys to staying on top of things at work, and Alex’s business ventures2:23:47 – Carrying a load, hitting rock bottom, and adding value2:31:26 – The keys to maintaining a healthy relationship2:37:59 – Wrap up, and very kind words from Alex about the podcast

Jesse Firestone is back on the podcast! We talked about his injury this spring and finding silver linings, why he focused more on weight training than climbing this summer, shifting his priorities to spending more time on projects, biggest lessons from the past three years of coaching, Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, how to become more flexible through climbing, why visualization is an excellent use of your time, and much more!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:53 – Jesse’s Winter and Spring season, his wrist injury, and his trip to Fontainebleau0:11:53 – Losing muscle, falling into our own pitfalls, and a sales pitch for having a coach0:15:45 – Stoic philosophy, finding the silver lining, and why Jesse climbed a lot less than usual over the summer0:18:49 – Being stubborn about rock climbing, and plans to balance that with more weight lifting0:20:32 – Why Jesse is moving toward less volume and more projecting0:25:31 – Work capacity0:29:48 – My summer trip, and what I would do the same vs differently to prepare next time0:34:22 – Chasing the highs, and the reset of a bad injury0:37:29 – Being content with not sending my project in Rocklands, and Jesse and I talk about struggling to find inspiration there0:43:53 – What I’ve realized about active rest days in Rocklands0:47:57 – Why Jesse didn’t set any goals on paper in 20230:49:57 – Thai0:51:25 – How Jesse’s coaching business has evolved, and how he uses Instagram0:56:03 – “A good coach knows when to be a window and when to be a mirror.”0:56:33 – Lessons from Jesse’s first few years of coaching1:05:23 – How coaching has led him to being a more compassionate person1:08:43 – Summary of coaching lessons1:09:33 – Intent vs. content of training1:12:55 – Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, writing a book, and how to improve flexibility through climbing1:22:10 – Having a positive attitude about your flexibility1:29:55 – 3 benefits of visualization for climbers1:39:53 – The nuts and bolts of visualization1:46:47 – Jesse puts his coach hat on and encourages me to climb faster1:51:47 – Visualization for onsighting, and Adam Ondra’s onsight of Just Do It1:54:20 – Wrap up

Josh Champion is an MD and elite boulderer based in Portland, Oregon. Josh and I hung out in 2017 during my infamous Bishop trip. Since then he moved to Colorado for residency, got even stronger, and then quit climbing shortly after sending his first three V13s. We talked about why he quit for three years, how he improved his relationship with climbing, helpful books, building Just Beta, and much more!The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-championNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:03:51 – Intermittent fasting, Josh’s “salad”, and diet soda in the morning0:07:15 – Reminiscing about the 2017 Bishop trip, Josh’s send of Mandala, and clarifying the timing of my journey with disordered eating0:12:07 – What happened to Josh after the 2017 trip, and moving to Colorado for residency0:17:55 – How the pandemic affected his work, and sending his first three V13s0:19:28 – Putting V13 on a pedestal0:23:51 – Expectations vs reality of achieving a goal0:26:21 – Delayed gratification vs learning how to enjoy the process0:27:52 – Josh and I explore what drives us to pursue goals, and pure inspiration vs seeking approval from others0:33:41 – Why Josh quit climbing0:36:16 – What it felt like to quit, filling the gap, and creating BetaCache0:42:35 – Finding a new physical outlet, and his mindset shift after being away from climbing0:47:27 – Discovering who you are without climbing0:49:34 – Not missing climbing, Josh’s antagonistic climbing friendship, and being free from comparison0:52:48 – What brought him back to climbing0:55:41 – Working on his relationship with climbing1:01:14 – The Zen of Climbing1:07:22 – Inner balance and friction1:09:48 – Feeling cautious but optimistic, and shifting the emphasis1:11:52 – Trying Woods Climb in Red Rocks, and plans for his upcoming trip to Moe’s Valley1:16:34 – Meeting Jonathan Siegrist, starting to climb because we enjoyed it, and when that shifted for Josh1:23:43 – Seeking challenge is healthy until you start putting numbers on it1:27:44 – Treating climbing like a martial art or a craft1:30:28 – Finding satisfaction and accomplishment in the process1:31:44 – Josh’s thoughts about trying hard projects in the future1:34:29 – Letting go of needing to check climbs off the list1:37:27 – What inner work looks like, and Josh’s claim to fame1:41:31 – The value of learning lessons the hard way1:44:19 – Realizing you are not alone1:45:54 – Why Josh created BetaCache, and the updated version JustBeta.net

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Martin Keller is back on the podcast! We met up in Magic Wood over the summer and recorded another great conversation. We talked about his send of Gateway V16/8C+, using video review to make breakthroughs, why you shouldn’t spend 50+ days on a project as he does, gaining 13 kgs to send his hardest boulder, his simple training routine, how he is still getting stronger at 45, and Martin gave me feedback and advice on my climbing.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:54:13.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMartin's Original Episode:EP 109: Martin Keller

Lily Kral is the owner of Boardworks in Bend, Oregon. We talked about her childhood and her mother’s struggle with addiction, being hospitalized for an eating disorder, exotic dancing her way through college, finding an identity as a strong climber, why she decided to build a board climbing gym, biggest challenges, burning the candle at both ends, being a work in progress, training for 5.14 at Smith Rock, and much more!Listen to the Patron Show on Spotify!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lily-kralNuggets:0:04:13 – Lily sets the scene0:06:46 – Minimalist vs. mooch0:08:50 – Lily’s childhood, her mom’s struggle with addiction, and seeking control0:14:48 – Hussling vegetable at 10 years old0:16:55 – Feeling unpopular in high school, wanting external validation, and being hospitalized for an eating disorder0:21:17 – Exotic dancing in college0:26:20 – The stigma around exotic dancing, and more about Lily’s experience in that world0:33:46 – Type 1 vs type 2 thinking0:36:15 – Coming out of retirement for a weekend0:38:08 – Her time as a full-time route setter, burning the candle at both ends, and existing in fight or flight0:40:53 – Moving to LA to become a head route setter0:43:44 – Issues with substances, and how Lily was able to stay sober as a dancer0:46:25 – Building Boardworks, and where the idea came from0:52:16 – Why she chose Bend for her first location0:57:14 – The Boardworks model, and what makes it special and unique1:06:14 – The biggest challenges of opening and running a gym1:11:02 – Delegation, and letting go of control1:15:34 – More unforeseen challenges, and annoying questions from people who assume your work is easy1:20:22 – Email1:25:26 – Portaling1:26:55 – The discomfort of feeling flaky, and practicing radical honesty1:30:23 – Wanting the invite, keeping our options open, and how texting has made us flaky1:32:08 – What Lily wishes she had known about marketing, and why construction is always behind schedule1:35:56 – Undervaluing design and aesthetics1:38:13 – Tying her identity to how hard she’s climbing1:41:32 – Being a work in progress with disordered eating, and obsessive and compulsive behaviors in climbers1:50:47 – Unpacking why we want to climb 5.141:56:12 – My thoughts on trying Badman again at Smith Rock, and climbing hard and being happy at the same time1:59:40 – Lily’s thoughts on board training for Smith Rock2:01:53 – Doing weighted pullups on a hangboard, and training endurance for To Bolt or Not To Be (first 5.14a in America)2:06:26 – Working on getting validation from herself, and bringing more energy to other parts of her life2:08:46 – Being in the present moment2:10:34 – Having more grace for others and for ourselves2:12:31 – Follow @boardworks_climbing on Instagram

Joey Jannsen and Rich Breuner are the founders of Ocelot Grips. We talked about their “why” for starting a climbing hold company, why the small details matter, how to make dual tex, why you can’t buy their holds online, building relationships with your customers, being fans of sports, the future of indoor climbing, the entrepreneurial spirit, producing underground hip-hop concerts, cage fighting, and much more!Check out Ocelot Grips! ocelotgrips.com*Not a paid endorsement, I just think they're cool!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joey-and-richNuggets:0:04:20 – Soundcheck and bevies0:05:30 – Rich talks about producing underground hip-hop shows during the summers in college0:09:08 – Joey talks about cage fighting0:11:53 – My background in manufacturing climbing holds, and our conversation six years ago about their idea for Ocelot0:14:05 – Why they decided to outsource their production0:15:37 – Joey’s background in route setting and shaping0:18:52 – Joey’s “why” for starting Ocelot Grips0:22:06 – Rich’s “why” for starting Ocelot Grips, and his background in business operations and management0:24:53 – Expressing your identity through business0:26:15 – The Hedgehog concept0:28:12 – Why they chose the name Ocelot0:29:09 – How The Nugget got its name0:33:08 – What sets Ocelot apart from other brands, and the Shade Theory series0:38:56 – Having a flavor0:40:55 – Wanting to be involved in the setting community0:44:47 – Why you can’t buy Ocelot holds online0:48:50 – Getting feedback0:51:53 – Attention to detail0:56:26 – How you do something is how you do everything0:56:58 – Ocelot’s manufacturing partner Peak Performance Polymers1:00:23 – Joey’s dual tex process, and how climbing holds are made1:05:29 – The logo1:07:05 – The business planning phase, processing orders, and learning as you go1:09:33 – Biggest challenges, and building Ocelot as a side hustle1:11:46 – Bluey1:12:40 – How far they’ve come, and what it will take for Ocelot to be their full-time jobs1:15:48 – Making career choices to maximize time1:18:40 – Where to climb on Ocelot holds, and gratitude1:21:38 – Joey describes the four current families of Ocelot holds1:25:38 – Wanting to see their holds in competitions1:29:54 – Being sports fans, and being excited about where climbing is heading1:38:45 – Novel moves in competitions1:41:15 – Putting on more than 50 competitions1:44:11 – Joey shares a few nuggets for route setters (relevant for creative people)1:54:01 – Rich shares a few nuggets about business2:01:48 – Where to find Ocelot, and wrap up

Stefanie Myr is the head route setter, manager, and team coach at Climb Tacoma in WA. We met up in Leavenworth and talked about our similar upbringings in Christianity, why we both moved away from religion, finding “church” in the climbing community, confidence and self-belief, unique challenges as a short climber, being less certain and more curious, Stef’s polyamorous relationship with her husband and partner, compersion, honest communication, doing what you can to make the world a little better, and much more!Listen to the Patron Show on Spotify!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefanie-myrNuggets:0:04:05 – Miniature carpentry, and a gift for me0:11:49 – Stef role at Climb Tacoma, and the gym as a core part of her community1:17:19 – How she first got a job at Climb Tacoma, and having a diverse group of people on the team0:20:16 – Stef’s unique financial situation, and the sustainability of working at a climbing gym0:22:38 – Moving away from her Christian upbringing, and finding “church” at the climbing gym0:25:09 – Our parallels with church music and moving away from organized religion0:30:31 – Bullet point lists, and how the gym functions like a “church”0:32:07 – Meeting people who changed the way we thought about organized religion0:35:16 – Stef’s upbringing and programming, and not realizing she was bisexual until college0:38:39 – Stef’s husband Julien0:40:34 – Stef’s confidence, choosing Giant Man as an objective, and gaining something from every climb0:46:17 – Frustration with height and grades, and needing to be V12 strong to climb V100:48:02 – My conversation with Nic Rummel about grades, and an announcement about the Patron show being on Spotify0:51:19 – Sending Pimpsqueak V8/9 in Leavenworth, ABR (always be rolling), and why recording send videos feels important0:56:02 – The power of seeing someone like you climb hard things1:00:42 – More about confidence, embracing powerful moves, learning from coaching little kids, and unlocking pieces of the puzzle1:08:18 – The moments that show you that you’ve gotten better at climbing, and Stef’s mountain1:10:23 – Stef’s dream boulder in Goldbar WA, and other goals in Leavenworth1:12:01 – How Stef got on The Nugget1:21:52 – Self-belief, wanting to be good, and the power of affirmation1:26:17 – Our brain’s reaction to negative comments, and how Stef deals with trolls1:38:02 – The lawyer in my brain, and making people think differently by asking better questions1:39:51 – Less certain more curious1:42:47 – Stef’s polyamorous relationship, and why she wanted to talk about it1:50:50 – Normalizing sex, and redefining cheating in an open relationship1:56:18 – Equating sex and intimacy to love, how cool her husband is, and the story of how she came to be with her partner2:03:22 – Jealousy, and honest communication2:05:32 – Why Stef wanted to talk about her open relationship, and why people who are poly are not free-for-alls2:09:53 – Bringing all of who you are to yourself as a climber2:11:53 – Compersion2:15:11 – The depth of her relationship with her husband before they opened their relationship, and the distinction between security and trust2:17:53 – Marriage, and Stef’s future with her partner2:24:47 – Double the love and laundry, and Stef’s life in a go bag2:26:50 – Check-ins, RADAR, smoking weed, and “ask don’t assume”2:32:23 – Double-committing, and learning to communicate her plans2:39:18 – What Stef wishes people spent more time thinking about2:41:10 – Make the world a little better2:42:20 – My episode with Ethan Pringle about his dad, and the importance of airing out the messiness2:47:35 – Stef’s sponsors2:51:08 – Pursuing the child-free life, and final thoughts

In this short episode, I correct a mistake from my latest episode with Katie Lamb and talk about the four women who have climbed V15. Thanks to Katharina for bringing this to my attention, and all the respect and admiration to Ashima Shiraishi, Kaddi Lehmann, Mishka Ishi, and Oriane Bertone. You are legends!

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Katie Lamb is back on to talk about her groundbreaking ascent of Box Therapy V16. In case you’ve been living under a rock (or haven’t been) Katie recently sent the hardest boulder of her life and became the first woman to send a V16. We go in-depth into her projecting processes, why she picked Box Therapy as a project, her greatest challenges, why she only tried the boulder once per week, her personal key to sending hard boulders, joy vs. excitement, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:34.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie’s Other Episodes:EP 145: Katie LambFollow-Up: Katie Lamb (Apr 20, 2023)

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan’s back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan’s most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7Nuggets:0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway0:13:07 – Ethan’s trip recap, and remaining goals0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude0:28:02 – Patron Questions:0:28:02 – Shawn’s Question: Ethan’s back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands0:34:04 – Shawn’s Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength0:38:40 – Rajiv’s Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson’s repeat of Black Beard’s Tears, and Ethan’s FA in Greenland0:41:47 – Rajiv’s Question: China Beach in Rumney0:43:05 – Rajiv’s Question: Chris Linder’s route Window of Opportunity0:47:59 – Travis’ Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips0:56:40 – Colin’s Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA1:00:10 – Colin’s Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan’s thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA1:03:42 – Colin’s Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge1:09:58 – Colin’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on the bouldering near LA1:13:11 – Cody’s Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As1:21:26 – Daniel’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on bat hangs1:28:02 – Alan’s Question: Which climber’s superpowers we wish we had1:31:44 – Jacob’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won’t make you lose your edge1:39:02 – Wren’s Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road1:44:20 – Jacob’s Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”1:47:15 – Lars’ Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands1:51:07 – Connor’s Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders1:57:03 – Cooper’s Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop1:59:13 – Luke’s Question: Challenging your perceived limits2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytisNuggets:0:05:26 – Exhales and accents0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining0:25:36 – ‘The End’ 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool’ 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty0:41:01 – Mattias’ 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline’ 7C+1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow’ on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber1:57:46 – Wobblers2:03:34 – Ethan’s punt on ‘Rodan’ 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants2:11:21 – V14 goals2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties

Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nic-rummelNuggets:0:06:39 – Test, test, testing…0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you’re given0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you’ve become0:23:29 – I’m on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic’s job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school0:36:14 – Nic’s longest boulder project vs. his math problem0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film1:02:13 – Ballet1:11:32 – Nic’s crimping journey1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics1:21:19 – Nic’s crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training1:24:32 – Nic’s key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally’s book Beastmaking1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time1:27:53 – Nic’s go-to hangboard protocols1:32:09 – Nic’s top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin1:34:15 – Nic’s thoughts on training micros1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual1:41:05 – Ethan’s feelings1:42:41 – Nic’s secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic’s home wall, and why he doesn’t like big holds on boards1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn’t recommend using T-nuts on a home wall2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul’s land, and renovating his trailer2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V132:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he’s changed over the years2:39:04 – Nic’s brother, his siblings’ climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather2:53:07 – Trap music2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic’s send of Airstar V132:58:41 – Wrap up

Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellisNuggets:0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words0:06:39 – Jenn’s gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn’s Olympic aspirations in gymnastics0:19:26 – Setting the scene0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn’s initial goals for her trip to Rocklands0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways0:48:00 – The climbers we’ve learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road1:08:28 – Jenn’s lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.”1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle1:36:46 – Jenn’s long-ass climbing warmup1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn’s warmup1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate1:43:45 – Improving year on year1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn’s role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents1:59:34 – Joe’s Valley doughnuts2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes2:02:17 – Jenn’s connection to Joe’s Valley, and how she became a software engineer2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs2:06:31 – Hype music2:08:27 – Best decision she’s ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about2:14:25 – Building out her van2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark

Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, being good at being consistent, balancing your carbon footprint, making the most of a climbing trip to South Africa, writing novels, and much more!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCarlos's Previous Episode:EP 58: Carlos TkaczShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-and-stephNuggets:0:03:36 – Breakfast and food habits0:06:24 – Trading climbing days with your partner0:08:48 – Resting more to climb harder0:11:01 – 7 trips to Rocklands apiece, and how to make long flights better0:13:12 – Teaching and going back to school0:19:01 – Why Carlos and Steph keep coming back to Rocklands year after year0:21:23 – Steph’s experience on her first trip to Rocklands, and why both of them prefer bouldering to trad climbing0:28:01 – Describing Rocklands’ style, Carlos’ first 8B ‘Monkey Business', and learning to try harder0:33:10 – Steph’s lesson in trying hard, practicing her yell in the car, and getting hyped on Adele0:37:21 – Carlos' experience watching a guy yell in Thailand, Coach Carlos, and asking if people want feedback0:39:50 – Steph’s send of ‘Ghost in the Darkness’ 7C/+, and trying ‘Caroline’ 7C+0:43:02 – Carlos’ tick list from the trip, sending ‘Airstar’ 8B, and reconnecting with the joy of climbing0:46:16 – What helped Carlos change his mindset, and sending ‘Into the Void’ 8B0:50:01 – Sending ‘Airstar’, and drawing inspiration from “the kids”0:52:36 – Favorite Rocklands films0:57:21 – Struggling with comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, and doing your best1:07:35 – Climbing is centralizing, and mental energy as a finite resource1:09:42 – Unpacking my feelings about not progressing quickly enough, and our American obsession with speed1:12:21 – Being good at being consistent1:14:12 – Dopamine hits vs. building relationships with climbs1:19:22 – Growing as a climber in Rocklands, and the stories we tell ourselves1:22:13 – My shift in mindset in Rocklands, and redefining a lifetime worth of climbing1:24:47 – Steph talks about how every season in Rocklands is a completely different experience1:27:02 – Getting the most out of the experience in South Africa, and learning about the place and its history and politics1:35:27 – Taking breaks from climbing to have other experiences1:41:53 – Planning the whole year around their Rocklands trips, and doing two 12-week training blocks1:45:47 – Teaching1:55:41 – Flying, carbon footprint, and how our brains make shortcuts2:06:29 – Being a park person, and how we’ve impacted nature2:09:26 – Steph’s thoughts on climate from a physics perspective, and trying to be carbon neutral on balance2:16:59 – Offsetting CO2 emissions2:20:44 – How they fit their 12-week training blocks into a school semester2:23:27 – The Training Trip, and building a community in Vegas2:28:59 – Nesting and baby fever2:33:04 – Training Weight, and the commitment to family2:36:16 – Carlos’ new book list2:40:31 – Speculative fiction2:42:09 – Carlos’ latest book projects, and Steph’s first novel2:45:59 – Carlos’ horror film2:48:19 – Steph’s new book project, and where to find her first book2:49:54 – Publishing a book2:53:04 – The feedback Steph got from her publisher2:54:58 – The Day You Became A Better Writer by Scott Adams2:56:23 – Having a family, ‘Sky’ as the final boss of the 8Bs, and making the horror movie2:58:24 – Enjoying the process2:59:40 – What’s next?

It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-bennNuggets:0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:26:21 – The boys' skin0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes0:42:56 – Getting hooked0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte0:58:41 – Brother dynamics1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength1:26:16 – Board gods1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 172:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 20122:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations2:19:24 – Three more goals each2:24:07 – Airstar2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands2:32:16 – These boys are the future

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.Troy's Video:Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAustin's Previous Episode:EP 97: Austin HoytShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryceNuggets:0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.”0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ”1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip1:57:28 – Airstar getting action1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North2:01:00 – Near misses

Cat Runner is the winner of the HBO show The Climb. Cat sat down with me and Ethan Pringle at our cabin here in Rocklands to talk about what his life has looked like after The Climb, his experience filming the show, the stereotypical trans narrative in the media, why he chooses to be visible, his ungendered childhood, gender roles in sports, why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, dealing with trolls, owning your accomplishments, building the Queer Climber’s Network, Rocklands highlights, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/cat-runnerNuggets:0:04:44 – Cat’s tea situation0:07:53 – Ethan’s coffee addiction, and why he doesn’t drink it before doing something scary0:11:20 – The Queer Climbers’ Network0:16:15 – Life after winning The Climb0:22:23 – Finding community through climbing, and helping others find that too0:25:37 – Cat’s experience filming and watching the show0:28:54 – Being trans as part of Cat’s identity, and how that came across in the show0:30:38 – More behind the scenes, and what the climbing experience was like on the show0:32:15 – Meeting Jason Mamoa, and meme accounts0:34:14 – The reaction to the show, and getting messages from trans kids and their parents0:36:35 – The stereotypical trans narrative in the media, and pushing people into the role of spokesperson0:39:22 – Choosing to be visible, being proud of being trans, and seeing a future0:42:36 – Being who he needed when he was younger, and trying to change one person’s world0:44:14 – What Cat would have benefitted from as a kid, experiencing severe depression, and knowing he’s a part of the future0:46:36 – Reading The Alchemist, and having intimate connections with individual people0:51:43 – Cat’s childhood, transitioning within the binary, and how his gender identity has evolved0:58:14 – Connecting with he/him pronouns1:00:36 – Why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, trolls, and the reaction to my video clip with Alayna Joy about climbing as a queer space1:07:30 – Why Cat is particular about who he climbs with1:10:28 – The trolliest of troll questions1:11:16 – People’s insecurities, and “we’re all performing”1:15:03 – Knowing when to give your energy to people, and leading with respect1:19:36 – “Trans people are humans”, and the stat that 80% of Americans have never met a person they know to be trans1:22:00 – An issue of isolation and ignorance1:25:16 – Hopeful conversations, anti-trans legislation, and false information about gender-affirming care1:27:56 – Cat’s parents1:31:50 – Gender roles and sports, and the gender gap in climbing1:38:25 – Height in climbing, the subjectivity of grades, and why outdoor rock climbing is so cool1:43:49 – Rapid Fire: Best decision1:44:19 – Rapid Fire: Most proud of1:49:09 – Rapid Fire: What frustrates you2:01:00 – Taking responsibility2:03:28 – “Take! Falling!”2:05:02 – Rapid Fire: Favorite rock type2:07:46 – Rapid Fire: Ultimate dream climb2:15:36 – Rapid Fire: Favorite send reward2:17:04 – Rapid Fire: Go-to climbing shoes2:23:00 – Rapid Fire: Desert Island DVD2:25:31 – Rapid Fire: Favorite album for a long drive2:28:49 – The one thing Cat wants people to know about trans stuff2:31:29 – Taking representation seriously, and how sharing human stories cracks people open2:38:17 – Doing your best, and sharing information with your circle2:44:30 – Cat’s ankle injury, and his tick list from Rocklands

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don’t miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:49:54.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingOllie’s Original Episode:EP 153: Ollie Torr

Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast! We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habits that Ethan does every day, taking your time while executing hard moves, adjusting on holds, and Ethan talked about his dad’s life after his stroke, his final weeks, and his passing on November 6, 2022.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasEthan’s Other Episodes:EP 21: Ethan Pringle (Jun 2020)Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle (Oct 2020)EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) (Nov 2020)A Call from Ethan (Jul 2021)Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ethan-pringle-returnsNuggets:0:03:49 – Princess Pringle0:06:13 – Rocklands Trip update0:11:24 – Feeling fit for bouldering after sport climbing0:14:14 – Ethan’s haphazard approach, and following the psych0:20:04 – Monkey Wedding (8C/V15)0:21:43 – Being surprised at the tactics of some really strong climbers0:24:03 – Rapid firing dynamic moves0:26:09 – The style of climbing in Rocklands0:32:37 – Bonus cruxes and nemesis rigs (Black Mango Chutney and Dangle)0:40:20 – Munchy holds0:41:12 – Micromanaging holds0:44:56 – Pause0:45:57 – Ethan-ism #1: Rolling out0:48:33 – Ethan-ism #2: Drinking lots of water0:51:03 – The lacrosse ball, and lubricated tendons0:54:00 – The injurious style of Rocklands0:55:54 – Ethan-ism #3: “Take your time.”1:03:12 – Perfectionism and being detail oriented, and accessing beast mode1:07:12 – Wanting moves to feel good, and committing when they’re not1:08:39 – More about the style in Rocklands, and funky moves1:10:02 – Adjusting on holds, and Adam Ondra on Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura1:15:18 – His dad’s stroke1:20:12 – Ethan’s sleeping injury1:26:08 – His dad’s quality of life in the final years of his life1:33:10 – Honoring his dad, which parts of Ethan feel most like him, and how his dad didn’t how to process and talk about feelings1:39:22 – How Ethan developed his emotional intelligence, and giving space to other people’s thoughts and feelings1:44:21 – A shared life philosophy1:47:58 – The loniless of thinking your inner messiness isn’t ok1:49:11 – What made Ethan feel the best when his dad passed away1:53:46 – His dad’s passing on November 6th, 20222:03:19 – Living2:06:22 – Thinking about the future2:10:10 – Goals and evolution2:12:39 – Inspiration, the unpleasant nature of hard rock climbing, and Seb on Bibliographie2:16:59 – Goals for the rest of the Rocklands trip2:19:07 – Plans to do trip updates, and my first two weeks in Rocklands2:22:57 – Indoor camping vibes, and plans for the podcast

Tiba Vroom is a Dutch professional climber and cofounder of Wildflower Climbing Gym. We talked about the pressure that comes with early success, her first trip to Magic Wood and sending Riverbed 8B, confronting fear of failure, separating self-worth from performance, being the 8, starting a non-profit gym in the Netherlands, taking responsibility for your life, dream climbs in Fontainebleau, and more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tiba-vroomNuggets:0:02:28 – Tiba’s first tattoo, and her first season in Magic Wood0:05:47 – Climbing as a mirror, and learning to confront the deeper parts of herself0:07:30 – Projecting Riverbed 8B, and confronting fear of failure0:12:59 – Tiba’s introduction to climbing, performance pressure, and expecting to be the best0:17:08 – We only hear the success stories0:19:38 – Working through fear of failure, mental training, and separating self-worth from performance0:24:34 – Consciousness, positivity, personal development, and power0:25:48 – The 6, the 8, and the 100:28:30 – Why it doesn’t make sense for most of us to compare ourselves to the best climbers in the world, and Tiba’s experience competing in her first World Cup0:31:16 – Tiba’s current feelings about competitions0:32:48 – How to prepare for an outdoor bouldering trip in the gym0:40:45 – Planning trips around the weather, and drying holds on Octopussy with Tiba0:42:19 – Stretching for 2+ months to be able to try a heal hook on her project0:49:40 – The gym climbing culture in the Netherlands, and starting Wildflower Climbing came to be0:53:10 – Creating a space for high-performance climbing that is welcoming to a wide diversity of people0:56:31 – Having a non-profit gym1:03:32 – Question from Lizzie: What is it like owning a gym in the Netherlands where gym ownership is fairly male-dominated?1:05:15 – Tiba’s favorite things to teach1:08:25 – A recent breakthrough1:09:22 – What she wishes she had known before building the gym1:10:49 – What excites Tiba about the climbing scene right now1:12:24 – How sports highlight social issues1:14:06 – Women who have inspired Tiba1:16:16 – Taking responsibility for your life, and the ultimate climbing goal1:19:56 – What Tiba is working on in her climbing, and working on being the 81:21:28 – Summer training and projects1:22:18 – “The world can use more conscious people.”1:28:04 – My birthday, and the Women’s Bouldering Festival in Font1:30:49 – How to connect with Tiba, and her new podcast

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Dave MacLeod is back on the podcast! We talked about lessons from his latest diet experiments, his motivation for only eating Mcdonald's patties for two months, the effects that nutrition has on mental health, common nutrient deficiencies, LDL cholesterol and cardiovascular risk, his favorite tea, what he learned from doing the Lattice Assessment with Ollie Torr, his goal to climb 9a+ sport, why he no longer travels abroad, setting finger strength PRs after 18+ years of hangboarding, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:13:42.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingDave’s Other Episodes:EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1)EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2)

Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip, fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make. Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returnsNuggets:0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself0:50:24 – Bad days happen0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap1:51:02 – Wrap up

Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ady-wrightNuggets:0:03:56 – Ady’s breakfast, and serendipitous timing0:05:56 – Ady’s first vacation, and how an outdoor climbing trip fuels routesetting0:13:04 – Her head setter Ryan, and earning her stripes0:18:16 – Learning to set above her level, the complexity of grades, and setting boulders vs. routes0:24:32 – Studying veterinary science, wanting to be a zoo veterinarian, and pivoting to be a full-time climber0:33:03 – Being the first in her family to do many things0:36:58 – Going camping for the first time, and a reminder of how recent slavery was in this country0:40:56 – Going with the flow, and everything in moderation0:44:45 – The benefits of meal prepping0:46:02 – Being hard on herself, and sharing experiences with people that look like her0:49:53 – My conversation with Brittany Leavitt, travel safety, and where the feeling of not doing enough comes from0:54:24 – The pressure that comes with opportunity0:59:22 – Losing her grandmother to cancer, and crying for the things she didn’t get to have1:01:01 – The influence Ady hopes to have on the routesetting industry, and how being cautious has saved her1:06:06 – Privilege layers, and needing to talk with people to actually know them1:09:29 – Writing novels and producing music1:10:57 – Mom1:19:00 – A question from Marie-Louise: When Ady climbs, is she in her body or is it more of an out-of-body experience?1:24:11 – Who inspires Ady in climbing and routesetting1:28:17 – Ady’s goal to make routsetting more accessible1:31:20 – Ady’s climbing goals, and her style1:34:32 – Being intimidated by overhangs1:35:57 – Immersing in a specific style1:37:40 – Lifting weights, and the 3 pieces of advice Ady got from Tyson Schoene1:41:15 – The exercise that helped Ady with her elbow tendonitis1:46:50 – Gymnast tension, and the yin and yang of climbing1:48:26 – PT Day, splits, and recovery1:52:06 – “It’s really expensive to be a great athlete”, and running from coyotes1:54:23 – Thoughts on sponsorship1:58:08 – Stories of walking in New York City2:01:00 – Being in the shelter system for a year2:06:38 – Loving most of New York2:09:18 – What frustrates Ady2:13:39 – Feeling hopeful and falling in love with people2:17:07 – Skateboarding2:19:50 – Getting mentorship from Sam Elias, and learning from each climb2:24:47 – Practice makes better2:29:38 – Believe and validate2:32:58 – The clubhouse

Bernd Zangerl a bouldering legend from Austria. We talked about his early climbing and making the 2nd ascent of Dreamtime, some of his proudest FAs, how he recovered from a career-ending injury in 2016, his mindset for highballs, meditation and the power of the mind, believing in love, our impact as climbers, sustainability, and discovering world-class bouldering in the Himalayas.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bernd-zangerlNuggets:0:04:02 – Where we each are in the world, and Bernd’s travels to the US0:05:15 – Magic Wood, and the impact climbers have on the environment0:08:02 – How to pronounce Bernd’s name0:08:53 – Bernd’s background in climbing, a near miss in the mountains, and falling in love with bouldering0:13:21 – The impossibility and culture of bouldering0:15:00 – “Bouldering is the kindergarten, but also the pinnacle of climbing.”0:16:50 – Dreamtime (8C), and learning about hard boulders by reading magazines0:21:25 – Reducing boulders to each single move, and holding positions for training0:24:41 – The bouldering culture in the early 2000s0:27:29 – Finding the most pure motivation in finding and developing new boulders0:29:22 – Spending eight years and 1000+ tries to send First Try (8B+)0:34:02 – What he learned from First Try0:38:56 – Nalle on Burden of Dreams, and the randomness of bouldering0:39:43 – Sending La Proue (8B) in Cresciano, and lightness of the heart0:41:20 – Openness of the heart, Buddhism, and believing in love and the good things of life0:42:57 – Bernd’s childhood, and why traveling is important to him0:44:29 – Traveling with Fred Nicole to Hueco Tanks and Rocklands0:48:00 – Feeling and knowing0:49:41 – Developing boulders in the Himalayas, and finding Rakchham0:57:17 – Why Bernd decided to publish a film about Rakchham, and what it’s like to travel there1:04:06 – Sustainability1:08:39 – How internet changed traveling1:10:34 – Disconnecting1:11:52 – Shangri-La1:13:29 – Working on a guidebook for Rakchham, when to go, and plans to go back1:16:04 – Getting the locals interested in climbing1:20:41 – Bernd’s projects in Rakchham, and the potential and rock types1:25:06 – Doing the FA of Shantaram in Norway1:34:05 – Patron question from Simon, and Bernd’s serious injury in 20161:39:41 – The healing power of the mind1:42:31 – Into the Sun, and Bernd’s headspace for highballs1:50:39 – 29 Dots (14m/45’ highball)1:58:45 – More about his recovery from his injury, and connecting of the East and the West2:03:53 – Bernd’s advice, and brushing2:07:47 – Bernd’s diet and lifestyle2:10:39 – Meditation2:14:59 – Bernd’s unique approach to warming up and finger training2:23:50 – Shake, shake the body2:25:31 – Being pulled into the present

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Hazel Findlay is back on the podcast to talk about her new course, Performance Hacks. We talk about her top 3 performance hacks, the goal of the course, and Patrons can get a 10% discount code and hear Hazel share some recommendations for me as I try to send my project here in Switzerland.Join the Early-Bird Waitlist for Performance Hacks:go.strongmindclimbing.com/early-birdBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:11:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingHazel’s Other Episodes:EP 81: Hazel Findlay (Aug 9, 2021)Reflections Series (for $10 and up Patrons!)

Louis Parkinson is a London-based climber and coach and is one of the best in the world at teaching dynamic movement. We talked about the benefits of indoor climbing, how practicing comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing, sending his first 8B in Magic Wood, timing your breathing with hard moves, skill drills for experienced climbers, how to break down dynamic movements, cultivating confidence, and much more!Apply for a job at Easy Expense!Click Here to ApplyLearn more: easy-expense.comCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-parkinsonNuggets:0:04:10 – The culture of indoor climbing0:06:45 – The benefits of climbing indoors, and Louis’ success on short outdoor trips0:10:27 – Rehabbing my bicep tendon injury in the gym, and what I noticed on the rock afterward0:13:55 – London0:15:24 – A week in the life of Louis Parkinson0:20:52 – Beginners try hard0:24:38 – Efficiency, and dancing vs wrestling0:30:18 – How did Louis get the nickname Captain Cutloose?0:34:16 – Louis’ first trip to Magic Wood, and sending the Foxy Lady dyno (7C?)0:38:56 – Riverbed 8B (V13), and his amazing tick list for the trip0:43:30 – Comparing ourselves to our previous bests0:48:04 – How to time your breathing with your climbing0:55:20 – Practicing new skills medium intensity climbs0:58:05 – How Louis thinks about practicing skills1:01:50 – Skill Drill: Sticky hands sticky feet1:06:25 – The Moonboard and Brad Pitt1:08:20 – Skill Drill: Body awareness and understanding compromises1:15:20 – Skill Drill: Using momentum1:17:28 – My experience on Burl Master 5.13c (8a+), and learning about contextual difficulty1:21:05 – Risk, Intensity, and Complexity1:23:47 – How practicing modern comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing1:29:10 – Jan Hojer flashing Jack’s Broken Heart 8A+1:36:22 – How to break down dynamic moves into smaller pieces1:40:18 – Forgetting the details and going for it1:41:58 – The Inner Game of Tennis1:47:17 – How Louis spends his limited climbing time these days1:52:04 – Cultivated confidence1:58:06 – Being intensional with your language2:02:36 – Growth mindset2:04:34 – Wrap up