
The Glossy Podcast
681 episodes — Page 9 of 14

Dia & Co's Nadia Boujarwah: 'We're at the beginning of the next renaissance of plus-size fashion'
Eight years ago, Nadia Boujarwah launched fashion styling and e-commerce company Dia & Co to cater to women wearing sizes 10-32. This customer segment has long been neglected, but according to Boujarwah, brand interest in serving the demo is at its height. “The social calls for inclusivity have never been more pronounced,” she said on the latest Glossy Podcast. “Inclusivity has really moved into the limelight in the last two years." She added, "We're hopeful we're at the beginning of the next renaissance of plus-size fashion, where both the social imperative and the inventory availability finally meet”. Old Navy recently laid the foundation for such a renaissance by launching inclusive sizing, pricing and merchandising across its women’s product portfolio. Of course, not every brand can afford to make such an investment in the category -- but doing so isn’t needed to forward progress, Boujarwah said. “Our advice to brands is to just start [offering plus-size options],” Boujarwah said. “As long as the customer knows they’re on a journey with you – where things are going to get better, and that is communicated clearly – the endpoint doesn't have to be today.” In addition, Boujarwah discussed Dia & Co.’s strategic use of data, approach to fundraising and evolving business model.

Week in Review: Versace's new CEO, Lanvin's IPO, Nike's wholesale exit, Gap's Yeezy conundrum
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, hosts senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss some of the biggest stories of the week in fashion. This week, the discussion turns to Versace poaching its second executive from Alexander McQueen and the insular world of luxury fashion executives. Also on this episode: Lanvin goes public and Nike pulls away from its wholesale business, increasingly leaving its retail partners like Foot Locker out to dry. The hosts also discuss this article about Kanye "Ye" West's avalanche of bad press and how it affects his brand partners like Gap.

Dagne Dover founders Melissa Mash and Deepa Gandhi: ‘When you make great product, word of mouth happens’
Nine years ago, when CEO Melissa Mash and COO Deepa Gandhi set out to launch their accessories brand, Dagne Dover, they made sure to do things their way. That included being thoughtful about the makeup of their founding team, which also includes chief creative officer Jessy Dover, and getting the brand off the ground before bringing in outside investors. “We didn't see ourselves reflected in management. [Retail] was and continues to be a very male-dominated industry, despite who they're selling to and who the products are made for and who actually works at these companies,” Mash said on the latest Glossy Podcast. “So we wanted to create a place that felt like it was made for us and was run with a different type of energy than we've seen in our previous experiences working in retail.” She added, “It was also really important that we had [financial, operational and design] skills represented on the founding team, so that we could move quickly and move longer without having to raise money immediately. We [could instead spend time] testing it out and making sure we did have product-market fit.” That independence from industry norms has stayed with Dagne Dover since its launch. For example, though the brand is digitally native, the founders haven’t hesitated to strategically expand its sales channels to select retailers, including Nordstrom. They opened the first permanent Dagne Dover store, in NYC, in 2020. “In many ways, we often run more like a traditional retail brand, but with the efficiencies of tech and of the modern times,” Mash said.

Week in Review: Alexander McQueen, Saks Off 5th and Abercrombie & Fitch
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, hosts senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down three of the biggest news stories in fashion of the week. On this week's episode, Alexander McQueen's mushroom-themed show didn't contain any actual mushroom leather, Saks Off 5th rebranded for a younger audience and Abercrombie & Fitch became the latest mall brand to chase after the booming activewear market.

Google Shopping's Stephanie Horton: 'Servicing the customer at every point of the journey is the goal'
Joining Google mid-pandemic to be its global consumer marketing director for commerce wasn’t an obvious next step for Stephanie Horton. Prior, she held roles that were comparatively more fashion-centric, including CMO at Farfetch, chief strategy officer at Alexander Wang and global head of communications for Shopbop. But she was up for a new challenge. “I’m not really a career architect. Things kind of come my way, and [the draw, for me] is really about the scope and what I can learn, and whether there is something new or innovative there,” Horton said on the latest Glossy Podcast. “[Google] seemed like a great chance for me to be a part of something that was in the building stages -- it was building blocks and really looking for an identity. And there were so many cool things on the table on the product side that I found really interesting and innovative.” Now a year-and-a-half in, she’s making great progress on bringing the Google Shopping product vision to life and educating consumers on the tools the platform offers. Among them: Google Lens and a new interface that makes it easier for people to “window shop” on Google. “We want to make Google the place where you start your shopping journey, no matter where you finish,” she said. “We're not a retailer and we're not a marketplace. We're the place that you can go and really compare, find, narrow down, be inspired, and then make your choice.”

Week in Review: Paris Fashion Week, International Women's Day and the brands breaking ties with Russia
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and co-host fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week. In this week's episode, the hosts discuss the evolution of historically traditional Paris Fashion Week, the accumulating fashion brands retracting their business operations in Russia and the way fashion companies opted to recognize this year's International Women's Day, on March 8.

Marfa Stance founder Georgia Dant: Clothes have to do more for you, if you’re going to buy less
Launched in 2019, Marfa Stance aims to offer an innovative, more sustainable solution to the consumer desire for variety and constant newness: adaptable, enhanceable clothing. “To me, ‘modular’ is a way of unlocking your creativity,” said Georgia Dant, founder and CEO of Marfa Stance, on the latest Glossy Podcast. “You [get to] design your own piece for your lifestyle or for whatever functionality or occasion you're going to.” That way of dressing is catching on, including among fashion “it” girls, many of whom have shown support for Marfa Stance without a paycheck. In the year ahead, Dant aims to host more in-person events and to open branded stores, granting online customers more access to the brand and its concepts.

Week in Review: Ukraine, the UN's climate report and Cartier v. Tiffany
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and co-host fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week. In this week's episode, the hosts discuss the ramifications of the Russian invasion of Ukraine on Ukrainian fashion and the efforts across the industry to send aid to Ukraine. Also this week, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report, including what fashion brands are doing to reduce emissions, and a lawsuit between Cartier and Tiffany over non-competes and trade secrets.

Models and Joja founders Josephine Skriver and Jasmine Tookes: We learned the business 'from the ground up'
Both Josephine Skriver and Jasmine Tookes have been modeling for more than a decade for brands from Victoria’s Secret to Tom Ford. Now, they’re focused on building a brand of their own. Named Joja – derived using the first two letters of their first names – Skriver and Tookes’s activewear brand launched in February. It bears the same name as the Instagram account the pair launched in 2016, which unexpectedly gained a large following. “It really just developed over our passion and love for fitness and staying healthy, and holding each other accountable in the gym,” said Tookes. “We started posting our workouts on Instagram, and it was really just for us to share our journey in the gym with each other. And out of nowhere, girls from all over the world started sharing their workouts with each other and holding each other accountable.” Today, the Instagram account has more than 700,000 followers. And that community’s demand for Joja “merch” is what drove the launch of the brand – which the founders plan to expand far beyond activewear. “Hopefully, we can build an entire Joja universe,” Tookes said. “We have so many ideas we want to do. Joja is really a fun opportunity for us to build an entire umbrella around health and wellness, whether that includes protein drinks or beauty waters or workout equipment. The opportunities are endless.”

Week in Review: ABG's vision for Reebok, Yeezy Gap x Balenciaga's drop, Macy's spinoff announcement
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest news stories of the week. This week, Authentic Brands Group announced a strategic partnership with New Guards Group, with the goal of making Reebok into a luxury-streetwear crossover brand to compete with Nike. Elsewhere, Ye and Demna finally dropped their collaboration through the Yeezy Gap line, and Macy's announced that it won't separate its online and in-store businesses.

Dora Maar founder Lauren Wilson: 'There's really something to be said for the micro-influencer'
Luxury fashion resale site Dora Maar launched in 2019. It was good timing, considering how resale has taken off since the start of the pandemic. “In 2020, we found our footing. And in 2021, we really blew it out,” said Lauren Wilson, founder and CEO of Dora Maar, on the latest Glossy Podcast. “Year over year, we grew 570%.” Dora Maar’s differentiator among resale companies is that it spotlights its sellers on its site and marketing channels, labeling them as “Muses” and treating them as influencers. It also attributes each product it sells to one of their closets. Wilson pointed to her previous job experience as the inspiration for the business model. “While working at Moda [Operandi] and, prior to that, at Christie's, we were always digging behind the story of the designer or the women who wore it or the people who owned it,” she said. “And I thought, ‘Why doesn't this exist in secondhand?’” “This is a new way of retail,” she added. Moving forward, along with bringing more Muses and also brand partners into the fold, Wilson plans to elevate Dora Maar’s automation and personalization capabilities. She’ll also continue to expand its product offerings to new categories – Dora Maar's already introduced home and beauty categories since its launch. “2022 is really about scaling up, Wilson said.

Week in Review: NYFW wraps, LVMH increases prices, Rebecca Minkoff sells
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss the biggest fashion news of the week. This week, an NYFW recap, a look at LVMH's price increases and a discussion on Rebecca Minkoff's decision to sell to Sunrise Brands.

Indochino's Drew Green on opening 100 stores: 'Southern states are becoming our top markets'
According to its president and CEO, Drew Green, 7-year-old suit specialist Indochino is "the largest custom apparel company in the world," and growing. Indochino's set to eclipse 100 stores this year, opening eight in February alone, Green said on the latest Glossy Podcast. Its other plans for 2022 include expanding to women's suiting and increasing its wedding apparel business. For several years already, the company's done nine figures in annual revenue. Secrets to its success include taking a diversified approach to marketing that includes "everything from podcasts to team sponsorships with the Yankees, the L.A. Rams and the Boston Red Sox," Green said. The company's "showroom" store model, which necessitates minimal investment, and prioritization of the customer experience have also served it well. "I like the Four Seasons model [of earning customer loyalty]," Green said. "I understand the benefits of actually having points or cashback and all the different mechanisms within a loyalty program. But where we've invested for loyalty is in the actual experience: making it fun, making it interesting and making it memorable. That's what the Four Seasons does. They don't have points, they don't have cashback, they just provide a world-class experience."

Week in Review: Adidas' nude campaign, Prada's video game partnership and the shuttering of InStyle
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss some of the biggest fashion news stories of the week. This week, Adidas advertised its new sports bra campaign with a series of nude photos, Prada partnered with French video game publisher Ubisoft on an in-game event, and the fashion publication InStyle had its print magazine shut down.

Studs founders Anna Harman and Lisa Bubbers on their plan to open 'many hundreds' of stores
In late 2019, when Anna Harman and Lisa Bubbers launched ear piercing and pierced earring company Studs, providing IRL services was at the center of their business model. But then the pandemic hit. Today, e-commerce is every bit as important. "In 2022, we're focused on both [channels]," said Harman, on the latest Glossy Podcast. "We want to really continue to invest in and grow the retail footprint, as well as grow the e-commerce business. We'd like them to be highly complementary to one another. The business will be more successful over time if both are key channels for us." The company has raised more than $30 million to fuel that cross-channel growth. As for expanding its store footprint, Studs has a good start: Harman and Bubbers opened six new stores in 2021, and they plan to own more than 20 stores by the end of 2022. "You have so many small college towns across the U.S. that have a really captive, large audience of a portion of our core demographic," said Harman. "And so we can have a really large store footprint through time. The opportunity for Studs is unbounded." Outside of sales channels, Harman and Bubbers are focusing their efforts on expanding their in-house team and overall brand awareness. And, at every step, they plan to write their own playbook. "Innovation and outside-the-box thinking and creation are what get us out of bed in the morning," Harman said.

Week in Review: Lunar New Year, fashion x sports, Capri Holdings and Zegna
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss some of the biggest fashion news from the week. In this week's episode, they take a look at fashion brands' attempts to get in on Lunar New Year and capitalize on big sporting events, including the Olympics and the Super Bowl. They also provide an update on Capri Holdings and Zegna, based on the companies' latest earnings reports.

Pangaia chief innovation officer Dr. Amanda Parkes: 'Fast fashion is slowly dying'
Amanda Parkes never thought she'd wind up in fashion. Then again, 2-year-old Pangaia, where she serves as chief innovation officer, isn't your typical fashion company. "We are a materials science company," Parkes said on the latest Glossy Podcast. "We're all about the future of materials, and we really think that's an approach that can change the fashion industry from the inside out." However, many fashion fans best know Pangaia as the brand behind the rainbow-bright sweatsuits with lines of text that have been worn by Harry Styles and Kourtney Kardashian. Parkes started her career as a mechanical engineer and product designer, before eventually going back to school, at the M.I.T. Media Lab. There, she earned a hybrid computer science-materials science Ph.D. and the rare job title of fashion scientist. "I came into fashion through the back door," she said. "When I was in college, 20 years ago, there was no such thing as a fashion scientist." But, she said -- despite the lack of interplay between the two worlds -- fashion and science go hand-in-hand. "Fashion is an amazing platform to be able to show off science," she said, adding, "I was really shocked when I got more into the fashion industry to realize that big fashion companies don't have internal research. I was coming from tech, working with companies like Intel and Google. They are doing their internal R&D 5-10 years out to change and transform and make their industries what they want them to be. Fashion didn't have that as much inside of the big companies or at all. So I saw that as first of all massive opportunity for [Pangaia] to fill in the space." Parkes also discussed the power of the Gen-Z shopper, the state of greenwashing and the future of sustainability in fashion.

Week in Review: NYFW cancellations, Nigo's first Kenzo show and Fashion Nova's FTC fine
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss some of the biggest fashion news of the week. This week, a number of brands canceled or postponed their traditional NYFW shows. Nigo, the streetwear designer recently named artistic director of Kenzo, showed his first collection with the brand in Paris. And Fashion Nova was fined by the FTC for blocking bad reviews from appearing on its site, making it the first company to be formally punished for review-blocking.

Ba&sh North America CEO Desiree Thomas: '2021 was a record sales year'
Over the last two years, the fashion industry has experienced plenty of ups and downs – but 19-year-old contemporary brand Ba&sh has managed to remain on the upswing for the last 10 months. “[2021] was a record year,” Desiree Thomas, CEO of Ba&sh North America, said on the latest Glossy Podcast. “Since the middle of March last year, we’ve seen this excitement around getting dressed again; a lot of women are just wanting to take a moment for themselves and celebrate the joys of life.” As a result, Ba&sh has seen “explosive growth” in each of its sales channels. “We saw retail explode in all of our freestanding stores in North America,” she said. “And digital was also on fire.” Thomas joined Ba&sh in May 2021, after serving as brand president for 3.1 Phillip Lim and holding top sales roles at BCBGMaxAzria and Nicole Miller. She said she was lured by the brand’s focus on “joy, female femininity and empowerment.” Ba&sh was founded in France in 2003 by entrepreneurs and best friends Barbara Boccara and Sharon Krief, whose first names were combined to create the brand name. Moving forward, Thomas plans to maintain the brand’s trajectory by opening more stores, including in first-time markets like Greenwich and Aventura, hosting pop-ups and collaborating with influencers, among other strategies, “We have a very ambitious growth strategy in place,” she said. “We are going to see double-digit growth this year, for sure.”

Week in Review: André Leon Talley, Aimé Leon Dore's LVMH investment and Bally's new creative director
On this week's Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss three of the biggest fashion news stories of the week. This week, the pair discuss the legacy of the late André Leon Talley, an outsized personality in the fashion world for decades, as well as LVMH's new minority stake in Aimé Leon Dore and Bally's hire of Rhude's Rhuigi Villaseñor as its new creative director.

Hatch founder Ariane Goldman: 'Building this from the ground up was my proof of concept'
Ariane Goldman is a serial entrepreneur with a specialty: “I'm always gonna try to create things people need,” she said on the latest Glossy Podcast. In 2007, that meant launching Twobirds Bridesmaid, focused on bridesmaid dresses that women can wear more than once. And in 2011, she introduced Hatch. “I was pregnant with my first daughter, excited about this new endeavor that I was about to embark on. And I was absolutely surprised that there was nobody speaking to me. I didn't know how to speak the language, and I didn't know what to look for,” she said. “That was the lightbulb that went off. I knew that if I was feeling this way, there must have been other women looking for the same companionship and guidance through this next chapter.” She started Hatch as a direct-to-consumer brand centered on clothing women can wear before, during and after pregnancy. Today, 20% of the company’s customers are women who aren’t pregnant, Goldman said. The company has since expanded to product categories including beauty and “fourth-trimester” products, like nursing bras. And in 2020, it launched a content platform called Babe. At the center of the brand’s success is an engaged community that has worked wonders to fuel its growth. Hatch’s annual sales grew 80% in 2021, and Goldman is projecting 40-50% growth this year. Among other topics, Goldman discussed how Hatch has grown its community using education-focused events, even during pandemic-forced store closures.

Week in Review: Yeezy Gap x Balenciaga, The RealReal annual report and Savage x Fenty stores
On the latest Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss the biggest fashion news of the week. This week, there was a flurry of news around Yeezy and Gap, including a new TV spot, a new product and the announcement of yet another collaborator -- "Yeezy Gap Engineered by Balenciaga" is set to roll out later this year. Also, data from The RealReal's annual consignment report shows a resurgence of ’90s fashion, and Savage x Fenty is opening its first five stores in the first half of the year.

J.Jill CEO Claire Spofford: 'We're keeping the focus on what's new and full price'
More than seven years after working at J.Jill as CMO, Claire Spofford returned in February of 2021 to take on the role of CEO. “I already knew a lot about the customer and how connected and engaged she is with the J.Jill brand – that’s a strong foundation for any business,” Spofford said on the latest Glossy Podcast. “Plus, its premium casual positioning in the market is really relevant now. And there were all the fundamentals of it being a great brand with heritage.” Indeed, J.Jill is more than 60 years old. But Spofford has moved fast to ensure evolution across the business and adoption of emerging tools and technologies that can contribute to its current growth. Personalization, an optimized store fleet and next-level customer experience – the latter, with the help of a new hire – are among her priorities. In mid-December, J.Jill reported a nearly 30% year-over-year increase in quarterly revenue. “We’ve made great progress against our [pandemic] recovery this year and have gained some real traction,” she said. “And that gives us a much stronger foundation from which to really drive profitable growth as we go forward.”

Week in Review: Prada and Adidas expand partnership, fashion opts out of CES, and Omicron wreaks havoc on brands' plans
For this week's Glossy Week in Review podcast, fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska joined editor-in-chief Jill Manoff for a discussion on the three biggest stories of the week. This week, a look at the significance of the latest Prada x Adidas collection. Plus, what fashion's presence at CES says about the industry's focus on innovation, and how the Omicron variant is impacting physical retail, IRL fashion shows and beyond.

The Yes founder Julie Bornstein on building an 'industry-changing' retail platform
If you count its unintentional year in beta, The Yes is just eight months old. Retail veteran Julie Bornstein planned to launch the fashion e-commerce platform, which she describes as "a new way to shop," in March 2020 -- but then Covid-19 hit. So, she waited two months and introduced the company in May, just before George Floyd was killed and "the world got even more complicated." As with companies across categories, the plan- and priority-shifting news The Yes faced in the year, and the following year, didn't stop there. "We operated in what felt like a beta timeframe," Bornstein said on the latest Glossy Podcast. "We ended up using that year to just improve the experience, onboard more brands, learn [what] our users liked and improve so many things. We decided we needed to launch web, [in addition to an app], which we did." The Yes's big differentiator among fashion marketplaces is the personalized experience it provides shoppers, largely based on individual products they like or dislike via a voluntary click of "Yes" or "No." Bornstein realized the potential for such a platform while holding C-suite positions at Stitch Fix (COO) and Sephora (CMO and chief digital officer). It's worth noting that The Yes rolled out a rewards program dubbed "Yes Funds" on Tuesday, which Bornstein teased during the mid-December podcast recording: "I helped launch Beauty Insider at Sephora, so I'm a big fan of interesting programs that reward your best customer," she said.

Year in Review: In 2021, resale dominated, fashion went into the metaverse and unexpected collaborations abounded
In a special edition of the Glossy Podcast, Danny Parisi, senior fashion reporter, and Jill Manoff, editor-in-chief, review the year in fashion news. 2021 was eventful for fashion, to say the least. There were high-profile acquisitions, groundbreaking runway shows, notable deaths and abrupt executive departures. In this episode, the pair discuss three big stories from the year, toughing on all the interesting bits of news that fit those larger themes. They include: the growing dominance of resale in fashion; the rise of digital fashion, crypto and NFTs; and the new willingness for traditional rivals in luxury fashion to work together.

Aerosoles' Alison Bergen: We had to accept that we'd lose customers as we evolved
After becoming sold on accepting the CEO job at Aerosoles, Alison Bergen is hellbent on selling fashion fans on shopping the brand. “I don’t think I ever thought I would end up at a comfort footwear brand. And I think [Aerosoles] offered me the job twice before I accepted it, because I had to get over my own snobbery,” Bergen said on the latest Glossy Podcast. Prior to Aerosoles, she held lead merchandising roles at Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors and Diane von Furstenberg. “What finally attracted me to [Aerosoles] was the original story about the founder, Jules Schneider,” she said. “How and why he started the brand … felt like it was equally relevant today as it was revolutionary back in the late ’80s when he founded it… He thought, ‘Women shouldn't have to sacrifice comfort for style, or vice versa.’” Bergen joined the brand in 2018 with the goal of modernizing its approach to design and business — which has proven to be quite the feat. “Taking a Titanic and trying to change the course doesn't happen by just hitting one button,” she said. “You’re really repositioning and realigning so many facets of the business. Whether it was distribution, product, branding, team structure -- all of those things were going to change, in order to push this brand into relevancy and a healthy future, from a profitability perspective.” Bergen also discussed the internal changes she’s made and the customer response to the brand's recent updates, including product pricing.

Week in Review: Nike acquires RTFKT, Chanel gets new CEO, Shein hires head of sustainability, Inditex preps for new leadership
For this week's Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi was joined by fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska to talk about the three biggest stories of the week. This week, Nike acquired digital fashion company RTFKT and Chanel hired a new CEO, fashion outsider Leena Nair. Also, Shein hired a new head of sustainability, in an effort to turn its image around, and Inditex shared how it's preparing for new leadership.

Cleobella's Angela O'Brien on building a "slow, sustainable and profitable" fashion company
Cleobella founder and designer Angela O’Brien built her strong, 15-year-old business from an idea she had while galavanting around the globe. “My husband and I left our jobs in Southern California, and we did a trip around the world for a year -- we lived in a camper van in Europe, and we traveled all through Southeast Asia, Africa, Australia and New Zealand. And we felt this freedom that we wanted more of,” O’Brien said on the latest Glossy Podcast. “So the idea became, ‘How do we create a business and keep this journey going?’” Now, she splits her time between living in Bali and doing business in Los Angeles, the headquarters of her globally-inspired, ethically-made fashion brand produced by artisans around the world. The brand has a story worth telling, too, O’Brien said. “The customer cares how her product is made. And having that openness, and telling the story of the people and the hands and the hearts that make our product, that's what's most important to me. And that's what builds a legacy brand.” Currently, the self-owned brand is in growth mode -- for example, it’s grown its DTC business 100% year-over-year, O’Brien said. She also discussed what’s fueling the growth, why she still believes in wholesale and why she won’t be fundraising any time soon.

Week in Review: Roblox and Ralph Lauren, Pete Davidson and Calvin Klein, and Chanel's Advent calendar
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, hosts senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss the biggest fashion stories of the week. This week, they discuss Ralph Lauren's metaverse ambitions, timed with a new Roblox activation, Pete Davidson's partnership with Calvin Klein and Chanel's Advent calendar controversy.

Designer Norma Kamali on how the pandemic 'fast-forwarded' her 50-year-old brand
Norma Kamali may have launched her namesake fashion brand more than 50 years ago, but the last two years have presented challenges like she’s never seen before. Luckily, working through them has had positive effects on her business. “Covid and everything that went with it was -- for me, in the workplace -- like nothing [that’s come before it]. We’ve all experienced this for the first time,” she said on the latest Glossy Podcast. “It really got me to fast-forward the company to where we should be. Plus, it made us more efficient and it made us better strategically.” It's paying off: The business has grown by almost 3X since 2019, she said. Kamali can be credited with pioneering such timely industry trends as athleisure and an e-commerce focus. And, she said, though her business has evolved, she’s held true to her core focuses. In terms of her designs, that means sticking to “clothing you feel good in, that isn’t crazy expensive and that you wear a lot,” she said. She talked more about her “classic, timeless style,” plus she explained why she’s dedicated to e-commerce channels, and how she's incorporating wellness into her fashion business. Below are additional highlights from the conversation, which have been lightly edited for clarity.

Week in Review: Virgil Abloh, Black Friday and a report from Glossy's first UK event
On this week's episode of the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi is joined by editor-in-chief Jill Manoff and fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska to talk about some of the biggest news in the fashion world. As the biggest story of the week was the tragic passing of Virgil Abloh, we discussed his life and his influence on fashion. Also this week: a lackluster Black Friday and a report from Glossy's first U.K. event.

Mytheresa’s Michael Kliger on competing for luxury shoppers: 'In the end, the customer is the judge'
Luxury fashion has quickly morphed away from Old Hollywood glamour to sneakers and nylon belts. But for online retailer Mytheresa, that air of sophistication and charm is still the heart of its business. "We love the true luxury part of the [fashion] business," said Michael Kliger, CEO of Mytheresa, on this week's Glossy Podcast. "It is by definition a limited set of brands that you could count as luxury." With roots as a boutique in Munich starting in 1987, Mytheresa has evolved alongside changes in luxury, including with its launch of a menswear category in 2020 and the company's IPO in January. Although the retailer maintains a focus on "traditional" luxury brands, like Valentino, Prada and Gucci, as well as occasions, like a "garden party," Mytheresa also carries "cooler, new [brands] like Jacquemus," in response to evolving customer tastes, which accelerated during the pandemic, said Kliger. In contrast to other luxury retailers, Mytheresa carries fewer than 250 brands, living up to its tagline of, 'The finest edit in luxury fashion." "We always say the journey of our customers starts with an occasion in mind, not with a product in mind," said Kliger. Mytheresa's focus on occasion did not falter during the pandemic, when sales of cashmere, knitwear, sneakers and slide shoes boomed as shoppers traded in galas for the living room couch. And on the other side of luxury, categories like vacation wear, formal dresses and party clothes have rebounded more recently, he said.

Hanky Panky’s Brenda Berger on refreshing the brand: 'We want women to feel supported'
Although "The World's Most Comfortable Thong" may seem like an oxymoron, intimates and sleepwear brand Hanky Panky continues to hold the title unironically 35 years after the release of its cult-favorite 4811 thong. While the brand celebrates its heritage with the anniversary of the iconic one-size-fits-all thong, which makes up over 60% of Hanky Panky's sales, it's simultaneously going through a brand refresh, said Brenda Berger, co-CEO of Hanky Panky, on this week's Glossy Podcast. Berger, who served as the head of sales and marketing from 2004 to 2013, rejoined Hanky Panky as co-CEO in 2019 when the "rebrand conversation" started, she said. After 44 years in business, Berger and the Hanky Panky team are focused on refreshing the brand while maintaining its sense of heritage, she said. Berger has overseen the launch of Hanky Panky's new website, logo and digital marketing strategies, as well as its new influencer partnerships and TikTok and Instagram strategies. "[These tactics] better tell the stories of our core products," said Berger. "What was happening prior was word of mouth ... [We shifted our] marketing content to storytelling, and we're now taking more ownership of it and placing it on our platforms."

Week in Review: Nike's Travis Scott problem, Faire's big fundraising round, Bottega's new creative director and an inside look at Shein
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, hosts Danny Parisi and Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news stories of the week. In this week's episode: Nike paused its Travis Scott collaborations, wholesale marketplace Faire raised $400 million and Bottega Veneta got a new creative director (while rumors swirled about why Daniel Lee left so abruptly). Plus, a closer look at Shein's massive -- and unethical -- growth.
MCM’s Dirk Schönberger on maintaining 'a glimpse of heritage’ as the brand evolves
Out with the old and in with the ... old? In June 2021, MCM unveiled a novel, but old-school logo for the first time in its 45 year history. Although the new take on the iconic Visetos print signifies the brand’s evolution, the vintage-inspired Italian jacquard fabric is meant to convey MCM’s past in step with the ever-changing fashion industry. “Heritage creates so much emotion for [the] consumer,” said Dirk Schönberger, global creative director of MCM, on this week’s Glossy Podcast. Still, MCM knows adapting is a constant in fashion. Its computer-generated take on the logo and its choice of non-leather fabrics demonstrate the brand’s ongoing need for change. “If you look closer, you see the cubes that we have are consisting of the diamonds from our original logo,” he said, referring to MCM’s new Cubic Monogram, part of the second phase of the brand’s refresh that launched on October 4. In addition to the updated logos, Schönberger has facilitated MCM’s collaborations with Gen-Z heavyweights like Billie Eilish, for example, who starred in the brand’s fall/winter 2019 campaign. Below are additional highlights from the conversation, which have been lightly edited for clarity. Luxury fashion’s "ivory towers" “Luxury fashion has changed because of the influence of street and sportswear. That had a major influence. That's why I'm saying Adidas was also fashion, but it was a different kind of fashion. And you could say that luxury fashion’s ivory towers [are] crumbling because of the influence of street and sportswear. But if you see, then, how luxurious the sportswear has become, maybe the ivory tower just got a little bit higher. Because now even the democratic pieces are exclusive and expensive. I wouldn't say that the ivory tower is crumbling, [but] it created little, extra towers that are also growing … With the influence of street and sportswear, it brought luxury fashion into a completely different space. It was not this rich, mature consumer all of a sudden, but it was again, the youth culture that influenced fashion.” A pandemic reset “How we reacted [in the last two years] was, we focused, we were super concentrated, it was not panic mode. It was, ‘Okay, let's have a good look at ourselves, what could we improve from [the] product, from [the] size of [the] collection?’ The whole sustainability topic became even more important than it was already before. There were a lot of serious conversations, but they were always directed to the future. It was not, ‘How are we going to save the company?’ But it was, ‘What do we need to do to be a better brand once this is over?’ And this is what we've done and I'm proud of all the teams that have been working as if nothing has happened from home. And we still managed to do business as usual. And at the end, we came out as a more sustainable company, a more focused company. It forced us to cut off things that were not as necessary as we thought they would be.

Week in Review: Daniel Lee leaves Bottega Veneta, Dior's first London show in years and the biggest collab drops of the week
On this week's Glossy Week in Review podcast, hosts fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff review the fashion news that didn't get covered in Glossy's weekly reporting. This week, the biggest news was Daniel Lee's abrupt departure from Bottega Veneta, three years after taking over as creative director and earning the brand wide acclaim. Also on the show: Dior's first menswear show in London since 2016, the future of London as a fashion hub, the big collaborations that dropped or were announced this week, and the keys to a good collaboration.

CEO Mike Cirker on Alpha Industries' evolution from military outfitter to lifestyle brand
Fashion has always existed on a spectrum, and right now, that runs the gamut from workleisure to platform Crocs and nightclub-lingerie. For all-American apparel brand Alpha Industries, its military-esque style neatly fits into those intersecting extremes. But, Alpha Industries' evolution from military outfitter to consumer-facing lifestyle brand does not mean sacrificing its roots. "We're never going to stop selling the [military] surplus," said Mike Cirker, president and CEO of Alpha Industries. Alpha Industries, founded by Cirker's grandfather in 1959, expanded the reach of its bomber coats, aviation flight jackets and parkas in the '70s as individuals became enamored by the style of the "American cool guys" in the military worldwide. While the brand continues to associate with service stars, such as with its Heritage Collection that pays homage to its original Mil-Spec Flight Jacket, Alpha Industries has also dipped into the world of entertainment. In 2016, the brand collaborated with Kanye West on the rapper's Yeezy tour merchandise bomber jacket. It also teamed with celebrity stylist Maeve Reilly, who dresses Hailey Bieber and Megan Fox, on Alpha's fall 2021 collection. "We're pushing the boundaries on reinventing old military or utilitarian wear for today's [consumer]," said Cirker. "It's about the story for us."

Week in Review: COP26, Nike in the metaverse and American Eagle's shipping acquisitions
In this week's Glossy Week in Review podcast, which breaks down the biggest news stories in fashion, fashion reporter Danny Parisi is joined by fellow Glossy reporter Zofia Zwieglinska for a discussion on COP26 and fashion's responsibility to the environment. Also on this week's episode: Nike's trademarks signal that it may be entering the metaverse soon, and American Eagle acquired yet another shipping logistics company.

Patrick Henry, aka Richfresh, on how he manifested his mark on the luxury fashion industry
Adolescence -- the transitional stage between the ages of 13 and 19 -- typically signifies the development of a person’s social, romantic and career consciousness. For Patrick Henry, an L.A.-based tailor and luxury fashion brand founder, it encompassed just that. While his self-taught sewing endeavor at age 13 was motivated by his desire to pick up “pretty girls,” it led to his passion for fashion, which is now exemplified through his custom suits worn by stars including The Weeknd and Justin Bieber. “The term luxury in itself is evolving,” said Henry on the latest Glossy Podcast. "[For clothing,] it's all in the details: It's the stitching, it's the precision, it’s where the garment is produced, what material it’s produced with and the little trims.” Richfresh, known best for its custom suits, many of which are characterized by Henry's signature track stripes, has since become synonymous with the term “luxe-leisure,” a term coined by Henry himself to describe the “the luxury version of athleisure.” And its pieces have been sported by A-Listers including Kodak Black, Barack Obama and Reese Witherspoon. While the Richfresh business remains 95% custom, Henry’s business was not spared from the tribulations of Covid-19. But the challenges paved the path for the Binghampton collection, Henry’s first ready-to-wear line that was limited to 25 pieces. Looking ahead, Henry’s signature stripe, which he considers the closest thing to a Richfresh logo, will be available on a host of men’s and women’s silhouettes in 2022, he said. “It's important, as we move into ready-to-wear [and] potentially open up stores, that I do this right and I get the right funding,” he said.

Week in Review: Fendi x Skims, Poshmark opening up to brands and Bottega Veneta's Detroit show
On Glossy's Week in Review podcast, fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss the biggest fashion news of the week. This week, the Fendi and Skims collaboration that was leaked last month was finally, officially, announced; Bottega Veneta, guided by creative director Daniel Lee's affection for Detroit, had its third show off of the seasonal calendar in the Motor City; and Poshmark began letting brands sell directly on its platform.

Monique Lhuillier on pandemic weddings: 'Love was postponed, but not canceled'
In terms of the luxury industry, a silk mask was much more representative of the last, pandemic-riddled 19 months than a silk dress. Despite this, love and the respective multi-million-dollar wedding industry built around it were not canceled. ”Love was postponed, but not canceled,” said Monique Lhuillier, co-founder and creative director of her namesake luxury brand, on the latest Glossy Podcast. Before she founded her brand in 1996, an engaged Lhuillier was faced with the two “extremes” of either “traditional” or “minimal” dresses, she said. “I wanted something that had the elements of tradition -- the lace, the long sleeve -- but with an open back, giving [brides] something unexpected. And that's what I set out to do.” As Monique Lhuillier, the brand, celebrates its 25-year anniversary, Lhuillier and Tom Bugbee, her co-founder and husband, are continuing to bridge the design gap with the brand’s extensive custom and ready-to-wear bridal and bridesmaid dresses, accessories and shoes. When events came to a halt last year, Monique Lhuillier and its clientele held onto glimmers of tulle and lace, and the hope that traditional weddings would soon return. Using social media posts, the brand’s nationwide retail locations and customer service representatives, the company never lost contact with brides, Lhuillier said. In the future, Lhuillier said she hopes to continue growing the brand’s DTC business, as well as its presence internationally, on the red carpet and in the beauty space. “We are exploring everything,” she said. “Because you have to stay ahead.”

Week in Review: CFDA Awards, Richemont's Net-a-Porter problem and Farfetch's new private label
On this week's episode of the Glossy Week in Review podcast, fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff start by discussing some of the honorees at this year's CFDA awards, including Zendaya, Anya Taylor-Joy and the Model Alliance. Also on the slate this week: the rumors that Richemont may divest from its stake in Net-a-Porter, the distinction between Net-a-Porter's and Farfetch's strategies, and Farfetch's new private label brand, There Was One.

Mack Weldon CMO Talia Handler on growing brand experience with integrated marketing
While the pandemic caused many proverbial doors of opportunity to close, other doors were pushed open. That was the case for Talia Handler, CMO of men's basics brand Mack Weldon. Handler, who most recently worked as an e-commerce strategy consultant at TikTok, jumped from the agency side of marketing to her new position at 10-year-old Mack Weldon in May 2021. "We benefited from working from home -- from people who want to be comfortable, but still look great," said Handler of the digital-first brand's latest campaign, on the Glossy Podcast. "It has been amazing to see that growth over the past few months with our new integrated campaign and our more integrated go-to-market approach." The TV-centric campaign Handler was referring to was centered on "the expression 'buy some time' [and also] what we now call our Daily Wear System, which is the sum of all the parts of everything that we make that works together," she said. Since its launch in 2011, the brand has expanded it product line from underwear to T-shirts, socks and sweatpants that together "produce radically efficient wardrobing," Handler said. For Handler, taking on a new role at the company during the pandemic carried more benefits than not, including engaging with its "amazing brand fans," she said. "We bring in our customers not to help us design a product, but to help us perfect it for the uses that they want to apply it towards," said Handler.

Week in Review: Coach's bag-slashing controversy, LVMH's earnings and Vuori's $400 million fundraising round
In this week's Week in Review podcast, fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss the biggest fashion news of the week. Topping the list is the viral backlash surrounding Coach's policy of slashing bags that get thrown out. After that, the pair talk LVMH's earnings, including what impact supply chain obstructions will have on the conglomerate and how Tiffany & Co. is performing. And finally, they address activewear brand Vuori's staggering $400 million funding round.

Sam Ku of AG Jeans: 'Building a brand based on great product is the most important thing'
From the Revolutionary War that facilitated the founding of the United States to the Black Lives Matter movement, America has shown that nothing is set in stone if people are willing to fight for change. Also intertwined within the country’s foundation is denim, which, despite its seemingly benign presence as a fabric, denotes social change, as well. As fashion brands across the industry respond to calls for eco-consciousness, AG Jeans, a denim brand founded in 2001, has been a trailblazer in promoting sustainable denim. “In the last 12-24 months, we're finding that customers are caring more than ever,” said Sam Ku, president and creative director of AG Jeans, on this week’s Glossy Podcast. “They've decided that, yes, I am willing to pay a little bit more for something that is better for the planet. I am [also] willing to buy a little bit less and buy better quality and make it last longer.” For AG, this shift in the industry manifested in the Jean of Tomorrow, a 100% biodegradable jean made of “eco-friendly” cotton and hemp fibers, complete with a “Coronado nut” button. “Building a brand based on great product is the most important thing,” said Ku. Unlike a majority of jean retailers, AG operates and manufactures its jeans at its L.A. and Mexico facilities that are “100% owned and operated by us,” said Ku. But despite this, the brand has not been exempt from the Covid-related supply chain challenges within the fashion industry. “We're able to stock a lot of our raw materials that we consistently use, [but] those that we don’t carry are hard to keep up with,” he said. As for the future, Ku is focused on getting the company back to 2019 sales levels and “continuing to deliver the right product on time,” he said. “The brands that can do that right now will win.”

Week in Review: Rent the Runway’s IPO, the Balenciaga x Simpsons PFW crossover and Glossy Fashion Summit takeaways
In Glossy’s Week in Review podcast, fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss the most important fashion news of the week. This week, they discuss Rent the Runway’s IPO filing -- including its rebound from pandemic losses. Of course, they cover the highlight of Paris Fashion Week: Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga x Simpson’s episode and the brand’s growing presence in streetwear. And from Glossy’s annual Fashion Summit in Miami, the duo share fashion brands’ takeaways, including supply chain difficulties like unreliable carriers, tariffs, rising costs and international factory delays that needed to be countered with advanced planning. This is especially important with the holiday season around the corner.

'What story can I tell for women?': Designer and model Aleali May on her journey with Air Jordans
When Vashtie Kola became the first woman to design a Jordan sneaker in 2010 -- 25 years after the dawn of the shoe's revolutionary debut -- it was a feat for a woman to break into the boys club that is streetwear. Fortunately, Aleali May, a style consultant, designer and model, continued to break down the gendered walls of the sneaker industry in 2017. But for May, because "it's taken this long" to bring another female voice into the forefront of the design process, pledging to "get this whole women's market rolling," has been crucial in her journey with the Jordan brand, she said on this week's Glossy Podcast. After working at RSVP Gallery, an upscale and streetwear retailer in Chicago owned by Virgil Abloh and Don C, May was offered the opportunity to make her own mark in Jordan history. And with that opportunity came the guiding question of storytelling. With Air Jordan, “Every silhouette has its own story,” said May. As a force integral to both the ins and outs of the fashion industry, May’s unique perspective on the industry has continued to evolve, specifically concerning the peaks and troughs of the pandemic and its impact on inclusivity within the industry as a whole. In terms of design, May continues to make her mark in the traditionally male-dominated sneaker industry. “The more seasoned I get in this, the more willing I am to try out new silhouettes,” she said. And looking towards the future of streetwear and the fashion industry, “My whole focus is [to try] to include more women's brands, more women's ideas, more women's products, and, of course, unisex as well,” said May. This week, on October 6-7, she's co-hosting Transfer, a two-day virtual festival on the livestream shopping platform NTWRK. It will feature exclusive drops from brands including Nike and Hood by Air, as well as experiential creator content, among other components.

Week in Review: Fendace, Tom Brady's new menswear brand and the Garment Workers Protection Act
In Glossy's Week in Review podcast, fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss the most important fashion news from the week. This week, they focus on the fashion crossover of the year, Fendace. They also spotlight Tom Brady's new menswear brand, developed with Frame's Jens Grede and Public School's Dao-yi Chow, and the passing of California's Garment Workers Protection Act, which guarantees a livable wage for California's 45,000 garment workers.

Faherty's Kerry Docherty: Being a sustainable brand means 'holding ourselves accountable'
As calls for sustainability within the fashion industry swell, some brands have been quick to vocalize their sustainability strategies, while others have taken a different approach by working to meet sustainability goals in silence. In the case of Faherty, a sustainable clothing brand launched in 2013, “It's less about making political pronouncements, and [more about] putting our energy and words and actions behind the things that we care about,” said Kerry Docherty, co-founder and chief impact officer at Faherty, on the latest Glossy Podcast. As CIO, Docherty’s focus on the brand’s sustainability and cultural initiatives was magnified in the past year-and-a-half. The brand opened 13 of its 30 stores at a time colored by the pandemic and the social justice movements that simultaneously took precedence. “It was a real opportunity for us as a brand to put a stake in the ground and say, ‘What are we standing up for? What do we need to do internally to get to where we want to be?” she said. The Native-American community is one community, in particular, that Faherty has invested in. “[The focus is] how we, as a brand, can differentiate ourselves as someone who's [allying] with the Native community, instead of exploiting it,” said Docherty. Rather than “appropriating” Native designs, Docherty is learning about Native culture and art and “focusing on long-term impact” and relationships with Native designers, she said. In terms of sustainability, maintaining a sustainable brand means “holding ourselves accountable” for the materials and lifecycle of the clothing items, said Docherty. Faherty has done so with its concrete benchmarks of having 85% of fabrics be sustainable and 90% of packaging be “plastic-free,” she said. “[For] our generation and the generation coming up, intentionality and sustainability are important, as are giving back,” she said. “The more brands that feel accountable for that, the better it is for all of us.”