The Enormocast

On Episode 137 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a glass room with boulderer, sport climber, and secret trad-head, Carlo Traversi. Though mostly known for very very hard bouldering, Carlo’s humble beginnings, like many, started in a gym and with a dusting of trad credentials. But once he tasted hard bouldering – ironically on … Continue reading "Episode 137: Carlo Traversi – Beyond Bouldering."

On Episode 136 of the Enormocast, I sit down beside the Popo Agie River in Lander, Wyoming at the International Climbers Festival with Shelma Jun. Shelma somewhat accidentally started FlashFoxy, which after beginning as a humble Instagram account among friends, morphed into an advocacy movement for women’s climbing. Shelma then added the Women’s Climbing Festival … Continue reading "Episode 136: Shelma Jun – A Better Way."

On Episode 135 of the Enormocast, I sit down with author and trainer, Arno Ilgner. Arno is probably most famous for his book, The Rock Warrior’s Way, but he is also known for his fearsome routes in the Southeast and beyond. Ilgner found himself at a crossroads 22 years ago and unsatisfied with just climbing and … Continue reading "Episode 135: Arno Ilgner – Climbing Deep"

On Episode 134, I sit down with alpinist and filmmaker, Graham Zimmerman. Graham has found the magic mix of working in the outdoor industry and still getting to go on trip after trip to the high alpine. The secret is working both sides of the lens as a crack mountaineer and a dedicated film auteur. … Continue reading "Episode 134: Graham Zimmerman – Both Sides of the Lens."

On Episode 132, I sit down with Alex Honnold. You may have heard of him. He recently free-handed the El Capitan. But seriously, a seriously-still-stoked Alex Honnold joins the Enormocast for his sophomore appearance. In opposition to his many recent mainstream appearances, on Jimmy Kimmel for example, we decided that a total move-for-move nerd-out on his history-making … Continue reading "Episode 133: Alex Honnold – Kind of a Big Deal."

On Episode 132 of the Enormocast, we’ve gathered a panel at the 5Point Film Festival to record a live discussion of climbing films. In the elements on a cold April day, the panel digs deep into film making, curating, watching, and enjoying. Dave O’Leske recently released Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey, a doc about … Continue reading "Episode 132: Live from 5Point Film Festival- Climbing Films."

On Episode 131 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Austrian climber, Hansjörg Auer. Hans somewhat reluctantly blasted onto the European climbing scene 10 years ago with an audacious free solo ascent of il Pesce (The Fish) on the Marmolada in the Dolomites of Northern Italy. Before and since that day, Hans has continued to … Continue reading "Episode 131: Hansjörg Auer – Finding the Moment."

On Episode 130, I sit down with Italian rock climber, Jacopo Larcher. We caught up while both in Spain and climbing at Siurana. Jacopo was on a mission to climb La Rambla (9a), which he did, and I was on a mission to pull off the first international trip with the Enormobaby, which we did. … Continue reading "Episode 130- Jacopo Larcher – So Many Routes, So Many Dreams"

On Episode 129 of the Enormocast, I sit down with consummate alpinist, Steve Swensen. Steve’s career in the big mountains has spanned decades. As a kid, Steve dreamed of flying to the stars as an Apollo astronaut, but he chose to climb as close to space as possible instead. While he has climbed worldwide, his … Continue reading "Episode 129: Steve Swenson – Almost an Astronaut."

On Episode 128, I dig back in the archives for a live show recorded last year at the American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic in Devils Lake, WI. One rainy, soggy, muddy night, three guest joined me for a panel discussion on the colorful history of the upper Midwest’s most storied cliff. Guidebook author Jay Knower, … Continue reading "Episode 128: Live from Devils Lake Craggin’ Classic"

On Episode 27 of the Enormocast, I sit down with blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer. Erik found climbing just in time to save him from a miserable existence in the dark safe place where taking chances and adventure are out of the question. Instead, Erik learned to push against his boundaries and seek fearful situations to … Continue reading "Episode 127: Erik Weihenmayer – Learning by Letting Go."

On Episode 126 of the Enormocast, I sit down with boulderer, sport climber, doctor, father, husband, and…ninja, Noah Kaufman. We discuss his up-coming Wolfpack Ninja Tour, how the whole ninja thing started, but then we get to climbing. Noah discusses why there is, in fact, more to life than climbing. He waxes poetic, and a bit … Continue reading "Episode 126: Noah Kaufman – Not Just a Ninja."

On Episode 125, I sit down in two different hotel rooms with young boulderer and budding tradster, Nina Williams. Nina takes us through an early cheating incident that formed the basis of why and how she climbs to this day. She walks us down the road of a pro climber with its pressures and requirements. … Continue reading "Episode 125: Nina Williams Comes Clean."

On Episode 124 of the Enormcast, I sit down with sport climbing legend, Boone Speed. Like the Royal We here at the Enormocast, Boone came into climbing on the very cusp of the sport climbing revolution, but he quickly found himself in an overly steep cave in American Fork, Utah bolting what would become the hardest … Continue reading "Episode 124: Boone Speed – Climbing Creative."

On Episode 123 of the Enormocast, I it down in Cody, Wyoming at the Cody Ice Fest with alpinist Kitty Calhoun. Kitty grew up in “society” in South Carolina, but quickly learned to live simply and love the mountains. The late 70s found her bumbling up ice climbs in Vermont and dreaming of big peaks. … Continue reading "Episode 123: Kitty Calhoun – The Mountains are Calling."

On Episode 122 of the Enormocast, I sit down rather early in the morning with the “Ambassador to The Nose” Hans Florine. Hans holds the speed record for The Nose on El Capitan with Alex Honnold at 2:23:46- basically, less time than you spent on Facebook yesterday. But Hollywood Hans has been a freewheeling Cali climber … Continue reading "Episode 122: Hans Florine – A Need for Speed (Climbing)."

On Episode 121 of the Enormocast, I sit down with friend, musician, and former band-mate, Chris Parker. Chris and I discuss his ambitions with both music and climbing, and why its so tough to be addicted to both. His mission in life is to reconcile the all-consuming passion for climbing with the discipline and demands … Continue reading "Episode 121: Christopher Parker – Went Down To The Crossroads."

On Episode 120, the Enormocast REBROADCASTS Kris Hampton’s interview with Miguel and Dario Ventura of the infamous and beloved Miguels Pizza in the Red River Gorge. Kris reached out with this interview because though he posted it over at his podcast, The Power Company Podcast, he thought it had just the right feel for an … Continue reading "Episode 120: Kris Hampton, Miguel and Dario Ventura – Life Imitates Art [REBROADCAST]"

On Episode 119 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Grand Junction, in the landing pad of Mayan Smith-Gobat, to interview young alpinist and free climber, Brette Harrington. Oft mistaken for a Canadian because of her ties to Squamish, this young American climber has been lighting up in climbing media with tales of audacious solos … Continue reading "Episode 119: Brette Harrington – Go Your Own Way"

On Episode 118, I sit down with consummate mountain man, Conrad Anker. Recorded before his recent brush with the reaper (see below), Conrad was already all too familiar with tragedy in the mountains. A protégé of the late Mugs Stump, and goto partner of the fallen Alex Lowe, Conrad has been through the dark valley more … Continue reading "Episode 118: Conrad Anker – You’ve Come Far, Pilgrim."

On Episode 117, I sit down in a La Quinta Inn in Rifle, Colorado (the town, not the climbing area) with Heather Weidner. Heather and I nerd out on the process it took for her to do the first female ascent of China Doll (5.14R) sans bolts. Then we go deeper. After sending the multi-year … Continue reading "Episode 117: Heather Weidner – The Life of Try."

On Episode 116, I sit down with big wall badass ans speed climber, Dave Allfrey. His endless psyche and skills-to-pay-the-bills has made Dave one of the go-to guys in the Sierra and beyond when moving fast and safe is on the menu. Dave’s years on SAR and mentorships from some of the best has made … Continue reading "Episode 116: Dave Allfrey – Psyched and Solid."

On Episode 115 of the Enormocast, boulderer Paul Robinson sits down for a great talk about process. It turns out that puberty was all it took for Paul Robinson to become great. Well, that and 10,000 hours breathing BO and chalk dust in a gym. But more than that, Paul talks about relentless positivity, embracing … Continue reading "Episode 115: Paul Robinson Loves to Fail."

On Episode 114 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Black Diamond’s Climbing Category Director and former Director of Quality, Kolin Powick. Episode 114 is filled with science and nerds out on gear. We start specifically with Black Diamond’s recent recalls, but then we move into gear issues generally. Myths, misconceptions, mistakes are all discussed. … Continue reading "Episode 114: Kolin Powick uses SCIENCE to keep you ALIVE!"

On Episode 113, I finally move Rob Pizem from his on-deck status to current guest after saving him for a rainy day for a few years. Pizem, AKA Piz, manages a “normal” life in Grand Junction, Colorado and still climbs really hard. I try to glean the magic of how to have it all: a job(s), kids, … Continue reading "Episode 113: Rob Pizem – The Time is Now."

On Episode 112, I sit down with crack master Jean-Pierre, AKA Peewee, Ouellet. This one is for the crack nerds- the folks for whom the difference between a ring-lock and a finger-stack can be an all night, booze fueled debate, and JP delivers. We learn about his very specific approach to hard crack “collecting”. JP … Continue reading "Episode 112: Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet – The Collector."

On Episode 111 of the Enormocast, I sit down with rock climber and genuine good guy, Brad Gobright. This lighthearted “kid” approaches climbing the gnar with joy and stoke, but don’t let that fool you – he’s got the eye of the tiger and skills of the ninja. Brad has been quietly crushing first free … Continue reading "Episode 111: Brad Gobright – High Class Dirtbag."

On Episode 110 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a seedy hotel in SLC with a very Zen Cheyne Lempy. Cheyne had just returned from a session with Rock Warrior Way‘s author, Arno Ilgner, and was feeling absolutely himself. Cheyne instantly unloads about his trip to Baffin depicted in his film, Haywire. His first … Continue reading "Episode 110: Cheyne Lempe – Finding His Way."

On Episode 109 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a sweltering Mobile Studio at City Park in Lander, Wyomin’ during the IFC with climber, Chelsea Rude. Chelsea grew up in the South dreaming of the West and finally made the move to Colorado to pursue her climbing dreams. That dream at first revolved around … Continue reading "Episode 109: Chelsea Rude – Can She Suffer? Yes, She Can."

On Episode 108 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio in Rifle Mountain Park with Joe Kinder. Joe grew up in New England where he joined a crew of hotshot sport climbers that included Tim Kemple, Luke GOMEZ Parady, and Dave Graham. Self-described as the weakest of that band, Joe has nevertheless … Continue reading "Episode 108: Joe Kinder – Working for it."

                    On Episode 107 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an office in Carbondale with expedition climber, explorer, and super-dad, Mike Libecki. Mike was once just a Yosemite climbing- bum like so many before him, but then he found expedition climbing and his fate was … Continue reading "Episode 107: Mike Libecki – Passion for Adventure."

On Episode 106 of the Enormocast, join Chris and guests Cedar Wright, Leici Hendrix, and Jen Altschul for a live listener mail from Bonfire Coffee in downtown Carbondale, CO. We discuss various questions concerning love on the rocks, lowering vs rappelling off anchors, and more. Wonky and freewheeling, you never know what you’re going to … Continue reading "Episode 106: Live from Bonfire Coffee 2016 w/ Cedar Wright, Leici Hendrix, and Jen Altschul."

On Episode 105, I sit down for a trip down memory lane with Canadian hero Will Stanhope. After cutting his teeth in Squamish, Will, and his buddy Jason Kruk, took Canadian climbing up a notch or two in the last decade. In an era of hotshot boulderers and sport climbers, Will took the opposite track … Continue reading "Episode 105: Will Stanhope – Real Men Don’t Cry (Mostly)."

On episode 104, I sit down in the Mobile Studio with German climber, Ines Papert. Ines started like many by hiking in her local mountains in Bavaria. But one day she decided walking around cliff faces sucked, and her fate was sealed. She has since become one of the top mixed ice climbers, a strong alpinist, … Continue reading "Episode 104: Ines Papert – Walking the The Beautiful Line."

On Episode 103, I sit down with dad, husband, climber, skier, and Iraq War vet, Stacy Bare. Stacy is fresh off a trip to Angola with Alex Honnold, but he wants you to know that he’s really not a very good climber. Not good at all. So why did Honnold agree to go to Angola … Continue reading "Episode 103: Stacy Bare- All We Need is Love, Climbing."

On Episode 102 of the Enormocast, I sit down with long time friend and badass endurance athlete, Rebecca Rusch. Reba, as her friends call her (thanks to me), AKA The Queen of Pain, is known world wide for her feats on her mountain bike, but she was a climber first. After so much success in the … Continue reading "Episode 102: Rebecca Rusch – Once a Climber, Always a Climber."

On Episode 101 of the Enormocast, I sit down with SLC local, Justin Wood. Justin is a guy who has deep roots in the Salt Lake climbing scene but has traveled the world as a dirtbag and a van bum. Never one to let a job get in the way of a good road trip, … Continue reading "Episode 101: Justin Wood – Problem Solver."

On Episode 100 of the Enormocast, I get a little help from my friends to celebrate my entire catalog – 100! YEAH, DAWG! – and we then get down to an epic convo with man of the hour, and climber of the ages, Tommy Caldwell. Tommy talks inspiration, professionalism, and the ups and downs of … Continue reading "Episode 100: Tommy Caldwell – Adventure Addict."

On Episode 99 of the Enormocast, I sit down in yet another seedy hotel with speed climber and former YOSAR member, Libby Sauter. Libby takes her adventure way beyond climbing as a nurse, often flying to far off locals with the Novick Cardiac Alliance. She cut her climbing teeth on the legendary Yosemite Search and … Continue reading "Episode 99- Libby Sauter – Life on the Short Fix."

On Episode 98 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Midwest native and ice farmer, Eric Barnard. Eric found climbing after Jerry’s death and getting sick and tired of Hacky Sack, and he went on to develop the early bouldering scene at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin. After a stint in Pocatello, Idaho, he and his family … Continue reading "Episode 98: Eric Barnard – Small Town, Big Dreams."

On Episode 97 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a limping Mobile Studio with alpinist, and all-around climber, Jay Smith. Jay and I get through his discomfort to talk about his early climbing, his vast motivation for first ascents, rigging, and best partners. Jay may or may not have sanctioned himself Clint-Eastwood-style by revealing classified … Continue reading "Episode 97: Jay Smith – A Climber for All Seasons."

On Episode 96 of the Enormocast, I luck out and sit down with Swedish/Moroccan/Finnish climber, Said Belhaj. After obsessively adventuring on nearby rocks and breaking into his grade school like a ninja to train, Said found sport climbing and his fate was set. He is a seeker and finds the meditative state in climbing to be … Continue reading "Episode 96: Said Belhaj – All In, All the Time."

On Episode 95 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a slowly deteriorating studio with German climbing legend, Stefan Glowacz. Stefan informed my early climbing with his seminal book Rocks Around the World. He started as a hotshot comp climber, then a sport climber, and has gone on to establish monster alpine routes and big rock … Continue reading "Episode 95: Stefan Glowacz – Still on Top."

                On Episode 94 of the Enormocast, I enjoy an evening with alpinist, Colin Haley. Colin hails from Washington, grew up scrambling and snow climbing in the Cascades before turning his talents to Alaska, the Himalaya, and Patagonia. Colin methodically built the skills to become one of the … Continue reading "Episode 94: Colin Haley – The Contender."

On Episode 93 of the Enormocast, I hang with a guy who has spent his life protecting others and protecting climbing, Armando Menocal. An avowed weekend warrior, Armando used climbing to blow off steam from his day job as a human rights lawyer stemming all the way back to the anti-war movement in 1969. Armando … Continue reading "Episode 93: Armando Menocal – The Peaceful Climbing Warrior."

On Episode 92 of the Enormocast, I reunite with a Enormo-favorite James Lucas. He left his Saturn behind, went to Spain, and climbed the Freerider in a day, all since we last heard from him in Episode 47. James continues to lead the dirtbag life, bouncing from Yosemite, to Salt Lake, and around the world. … Continue reading "Episode 92: James Lucas – Free Riding."

On Episode 91, I sit down in SLC with climber, musician, and guidebook author, Misty Murphy. Misty has become the maven of Southwest Utah climbing, carrying on in the Utah Hills and beyond with her husband, the route developer Bill Ohran. 5 years in the making, Misty has finally completed the definitive guidebook to the … Continue reading "Episode 91: Misty Murphy- Limestone Siren."

On Episode 90 of the Enormocast, I sit down across the table from Peter Metcalf, CEO and founder of Black Diamond. Peter discovered his love of the mountains on the East Coast but quickly found himself in the Alaska range testing his teenage mettle against the Last Frontier’s gnarliest peaks. After sating his youthful obsession with … Continue reading "Episode 90: Peter Metcalf- Big Peaks and High Stakes."

On Episode 89 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an undisclosed location in Salt Lake City with Colorado climber and Everest sumiteer, Emily Harrington. Emily came storming out of the gym as a “kid” and took down many of Rifle’s hardest as a teenager. But unlike many of her compatriots, she aspires to become … Continue reading "Episode 89: Emily Harrington- On Top o’ the World."

On Episode 88, I return to the Mobile Studio with SuperTopo founder and El Cap Ace, Chris McNamara. Chris started early with an obsession for the big stone, and moved on to a life of adventure in business, in the sky, and around the world. Never one to wait for opportunity to come to him, … Continue reading "Episode 88: Chris McNamara- Living the Ever Changing Dream."