The Enormocast

On Episode 278 of the Enormocast, I connect with Thomas Bukowski from my home to his van sitting in Yosemite. Thomas had just completed three El Cap routes in three days, and was recovering. His next adventures in Patagonia were just on the horizon. Thomas is an American citizen, but is also half Chinese and … Continue reading "Enormocast 278: Thomas Bukowski – A Funny Little Life"

As we stare down into the howling void of Government regulation of our dear sport, let us give thanks and a listen to Armando Menocal from 2015. Armando has made it his life’s work to keep the simpering bureaucrats in Washington and elsewhere at bay. But lately, they have reared their heads in an attempt … Continue reading "Enormocast Rebroadcast: Episode 93: Armando Menocal – The Peaceful Climbing Warrior"

On Episode 277 of the Enormocast, we connect with the inimitable Kurt Smith. Kurt grew up in the 70s in Tahoe and through friendships with local climbers like Rick Lovelace and encounters with Yosemite Climber, Kurt found himself in Joshua Tree amongst the Stonemasters in the early 80s. Soon, Kurt and his crew were making … Continue reading "Enormocast 277: Kurt Smith – The Iconoclast"

When we left the boys in the last Episode, they had just summited the Trango Tower via the 2nd ascent of Cowboy Direct. In this installment, the summit emotions and revelations come fast and furious as well as the realization that hits every alpinist on the summit: “Oh, shit, we still gotta get off this … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: A Candid Ascent of Trango Tower with Jordan Cannon, Jesse Huey, and Matt Segal [Part 2]"

On Episode 276 of the Enormocast, three guys dreamed big and got it done. Climbers Jordan Cannon and Jesse Huey hitched their wagons to Matt Segal‘s long standing dream of free climbing the second ascent of Todd Skinner et al’s master piece, Cowboy Direct, on Trango Tower in Pakistan (AKA Nameless Tower). What ensued was … Continue reading "Enormocast 276: A Candid Ascent of Trango Tower with Jordan Cannon, Jesse Huey, and Matt Segal [Part 1]"

On Episode 275 of the Enormocast, I sit down face to face with Finnish climber Anna Laitenin. After a youth in gymnastics, Anna found climbing and then almost accidentally found herself one of the best climbers in Finland. A life of competitions and pursuing hard climbs at home and beyond followed, as did becoming a … Continue reading "Enormocast 275: Anna Liina Laitinen – Born to Kiivetä"

On Episode 274 of the Enormocast, I connect over the Atlantic with Swiss alpinist, guide, and Eiger North Face aficionado, Roger Schaeli. Roger was born directly in the Swiss alps and learned to climb at an early age with his father. Surrounded by deep Swiss climbing culture, an early accident did not deter Roger, rather … Continue reading "Enormocast 274: Roger Schaeli – In The Shadow of the Eiger"

On Episode 273 of the Enormocast, I reconnect with Brette Harrington who appeared on the Enormocast in 2016. Just after that first appearance, Brette and Mayan Smith-Gobat left for an audacious attempt on free climbing Riders on the Storm on Torre Central on the Torres de Paine massif. Even though they failed in their ultimate … Continue reading "Enormocast 273: Brette Harrington – Keeper of the Flame"

On Episode 272 of the Enormocast, I connect with young trad-phenom, Connor Herson. Connor first burst into climbing’s collective consciousness with the 6th free ascent of the Nose at the tender age of 15. Connor had already climbed 14 5.14s by the age of 14 (say that ten times fast), and he went on to … Continue reading "Enormocast 272: Connor Herson – Deeds of Youth"

On Episode 271, I am joined by climbing coach and former (maybe) competitor, Charlie Schreiber. Charlie coaches climbers of all ages, but the meat of this conversation is about youth climbing teams. Charlie has been a youth climbing coach since he was a youth himself. We discuss my own skepticism about the promise of youth … Continue reading "Enormocast 271: Charlie Schreiber – The Kids are Alright"

On Episode 270 of the Enormocast, we are joined by Indigenous activist and climber, Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard. Though her path to accepting her heritage as a member of the CHamoru/Tugong Clan with origins in Guam was not without struggles, Briana has spent the last 6 years advocating for Indigenous peoples in Ohio and Eastern Kentucky. As … Continue reading "Enormocast 270: Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard – Doing What Needs to Be Done"

On this in-between episode of the Enormocast, you get the outtakes from Episode 269 with climber, Tyler Karow. After the official interview ended, we kept talking about climbing in Jordan, the social cost of the itinerant climbing lifestyle, and a few more tidbits for your pleasure. And the cops showed up. Enjoy this free “bonus” … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: Tyler Karow Saves a Goat (Maybe a Sheep?)"

On Episode 269 of the Enormocast, I catch up with the elusive and prolific climber, Tyler Karow. Though Tyler has a popular presence on Youtube and Instagram, he still remained, for me, an enigma of sorts. Tyler burst on the national scene with a ground up free ascent of Golden Gate on El Cap (5.13) … Continue reading "Enormocast 269: Tyler Karow – Engineering the Stoke"

On Episode 268, I connect across the northern border with former climber and current therapist, Lincoln Stoller. Lincoln came up climbing in the 70s, and his wide ranging career in climbing found him partnered with the likes of Fred Beckey, Dougal Haston, George Lowe, and John Stannard. When his interest in climbing waned, he found … Continue reading "Enormocast 268: Lincoln Stoller – The Physics of the Unknown"

On the Episode 267 of the Enormocast, I sit down with alpinist and Exum guide, Mike Gardner. Mike was born to the mountains and a life in guiding with early summers in the Tetons and tagging along on expeditions with his father, George Gardner. But when George was killed in a climbing accident when Mike … Continue reading "Enormocast 267: Michael Gardner – Beyond the Legacy"

On Episode 266 of the Enormocast, I sit down with stagehand, rigger, former BMXer, and “every-person” climber, Erik “Alleycat” Hingerty. Erik grew up underground street-riding on his BMX bike: ducking any fame, and trying to keep it real. But the accidents and injuries started to mount as he pushed his limits on a bike and … Continue reading "Enormocast 266: Erik “Alleycat” Hingerty – Above the Lighted Stage"

On Episode 265 of the Enormocast, I connect with climber and influencer, Drew Hulsey. Drew saw Free Solo and pretty much lost his mind for climbing. Despite the feats of Alex Honnold being at the most extreme end of the sport, Drew found himself wondering “Can fat people do this?” Not even sure that the … Continue reading "Enormocast 265: Drew Hulsey – Just a Climber Like EveryBODY Else"

On Episode 264 of the Enormocast, I connect with Alita Contreras – a Venezuelan/Colombian climber beaming in from…Georgia. Alita was born in Venezuela to a Colombian father who taught his child to love the traditions and legends of Colombia. At University while studying languages, Alita found climbing, and soon, she was pining to leave her … Continue reading "Enormocast 264: Alita Contreras – The Language of Climbing"

On Episode 263 of the Enormocast, I sit down for a long overdue conversation with one of the greatest alpinists of all time, Steve House. Steve house spent 20 years riding the cutting edge of alpinism. His ascents of K7, The Rupal Face, and the Slovak Direct, among many more, represented a sea change in … Continue reading "Enormocast 263: Steve House – The Art of Alpinism"

On Episode 262 of the Enormocast, I connect across continents and oceans to Switzerland and Caroline George. Caroline is one of the most accomplished climbers you’ve never heard of, an early female IFMGA guide, a mom, and a Swiss Ms. She holds US, French, and Swiss passports which open the world for climbing and professional … Continue reading "Enormocast 262: Caroline George – Belonging"

On Episode 261 of the Enormocast, I connect with highball boulderer, Timmy Kang, to reflect on life, his youth, and the completion a major project. In December 2022, Timmy did 5 major Highballs in Bishop in a day, including the feared and revered Too Big to Flail. The forthcoming film, Focus, was made by Timmy … Continue reading "Enormocast 261: Timmy Kang – A Different Soul"

On Episode 260 of the Enormocast, I connect across oceans and continents with Kenyan climber and guide, Peter Naituli (AKA Peter Muambi Loinua ‘Naitulu’ M’tulatia). Peter is a home grown Kenyan climber and guide who is spearheading development of styles, routes, and crags in Northern Kenya. In addition, Peter has a guiding service for rock … Continue reading "Emormocast 260: Peter Naituli – Sacred Mountains"

On Episode 259, I sit down in Ouray, Colorado with one of the most ebullient guests I’ve ever had on the Enormocast, Lindsey Hamm. Yes, I said “ebullient”. Lindsey is a climber and guide originally from a hard-partying and wild upbringing in East Texas. A brief but formative sojourn in the music biz chased Lindsey … Continue reading "Episode 259: Lindsey Hamm – Pulling the Ripcord"

On Episode 258 of the Enormocast, we present the 6th annual TAPS episode where we play Taps on the sundown of good and bad trends in climbing. The royal we are joined by Andrew Bisharat of The Runout Podcast and Evening Sends, former guest and listener-mail panelist, Mary Harlan, and last year’s TAPS newbie, Any … Continue reading "Enormocast 258: Taps 2023 – The End of the Quietude Edition"

On Episode 257 of the Enormocast, I am joined in-person by climber, gym-owner, and newly minted television personality, Chris Sharma. Chris is one of the most well-known climbers in the world, and his legacy of ground-breaking sport climbing remains unmatched. Chris was of the earliest crop of child-phenoms to hit the competition scene. Along with … Continue reading "Enormocast 257: Chris Sharma – The Thunder and the Sunshine"

On episode 256, climber, entrepreneur, and Florida man, Matt Segal, joins the Enormocast. Matt was born and raised in Florida, and this podcaster contends that he is the baddest climber to come out of that flat and swampy State (Matt demurs this accolade, BTW). Though he started as a proto gym-kid, and had a short … Continue reading "Enormocast 256: Matt Segal – Florida Man Goes Climbing"

On Episode 255 of the Enormocast, I connect with Dani Dobrot and Prerna Dangi. Dani is the Associate Director of the Global Climbing Initiative and Prerna is an Indian climber and guide for Climb Like a Woman. I catch up with both woman to talk about the Global Climbing Initiative, and its efforts to assist … Continue reading "Enormocast 255: Dani Dobrot and Prerna Dangi and the Birth of Global Climbing"

On Episode 254 of the Enormocast, I connect with former gymnast, now climber and nutritionist, Amity Warme. Though Amity grew up just down the road from the climbing mecca of Boulder, Colorado and under the shadow of the Diamond and Rocky Mountain National Park, she was too preoccupied as a child and teen gymnast to … Continue reading "Enormocast 254: Amity Warme – Putting the Hammer Down"

On Episode 253 of the Enormocast, climber and avid first-ascensionist, Nik Berry, joins the Enormocast. Nik was a typical suburban Salt Lake kid until he found and became obsessed with climbing. His go-for-it attitude brought him early success as well as some close calls. But Nik reigned in the risk enough to become one of … Continue reading "Enormocast 253: Nik Berry – In the Arena"

On Episode 252 of the Enormocast, I connect with climber and author, Fallon Rowe. Fallon grew up in Idaho as a scrappy adventurer amongst beauty queens, and like many before her, she was gifted climbing by the YMCA. Her outdoor climbing dreams were solidified while attending College in Logan, Ut – striking distance of the … Continue reading "Enormocast 252: Fallon Rowe – What Would Marcus Do?"

On Episode 251 of the Enormocast, I talk with legendary British climber, Steve McClure. Steve was introduced to climbing as a youth by his folks, and by his teens, he possessed a deep well of trad skills. The two successive serious accidents sent him spinning away from climbing for a time, but the advent of … Continue reading "Enormocast 251: Steve McClure – Immersion"

On this in-between ep of the Enormocast, I reconnect with Bron Hodgins and Jacob Cook to get a great trip report on their summer 2022 climbing and paddling expedition to Greenland. On Bron’s last Enormocast from August 2022, she was literally days away from departure when we recorded. The expedition was 40 days give or … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: Bronwyn Hodgins and Jacob Cook’s Greenland Odyssey"

On Episode 250 of the Enormocast, I connect with fellow climbing podcaster, Ryan Devlin. Among many far greater and meaningful accomplishments, Ryan created and runs The Struggle Climbing Podcast. As the name implies, Ryan talks with prominent climbers about not so much their moments of triumph as their moments of struggle. He hopes that we … Continue reading "Enormocast 250: Ryan Devlin – The Struggle is Real(ly) a Climbing Podcast"

On Episode 249 of the Enormocast, I connect to Europe to talk with Belgian climber, Sébastien Berthe. After making a personal choice reduce his carbon footprint by avoiding air travel, Seb made a bold and admittedly somewhat quixotic journey to climb the Dawn wall last fall/winter via sailboat. Though he and Siebe Vanhee did not … Continue reading "Enormocast 249: Seb Berthe- Sailing the Seas of Granite"

On episode 248 of the Enormocast, I post up in HER van to talk to Kaya Lindsay: offwidth aficionado, film-maker, van-lifer (former), and more. I know it seems like Sprinters have been jamming up the parking since the beginning of time, but Kaya was a first-wave modern #vanlife climber. Striking out from Santa Cruz, CA … Continue reading "Enormocast 248: Kaya Lindsay – Lock the Doors and Drive Away"

On Episode 247 of the Enormocast, I sit down with climber, resoler, and professional bull rider, Dustin Bowen. Dustin grew up in Pennsylvania, but was drawn to Western style rodeo from an early age. When his mom’s plan to let him get it out of his system in rodeo school failed, Dustin went on to … Continue reading "Enormocast 247: Dustin Bowen – From Rocks to Rodeos"

On Episode 246 of the Enormocast, I connect for the second time on the show with Canadian climber, Bronwyn Hodgins. Bron appeared on the show in 2019 with her husband, Jacob Cook, and since that time, Bron’s climbing has evolved and grown exponentially. She’s freed more big walls, climbed hard sport, .13d cracks, and expeditioned … Continue reading "Enormocast 246: Bronwyn Hodgins – Make a Plan, Stick to the Plan"

On Episode 245, James Lucas and I reconvene to catch up on his topsy-turvy life. This installment, his 4th, finds James on the upswing from a low point after losing his job, his girlfriend, his stoke, and purpose. James talks about losing himself in dance, home remedies for panic attacks, therapy, and general depression. But … Continue reading "Enormocast 245: James Lucas – Peaches en Ragalia"

On Episode 244, we herald the return of British trad ace, Hazel Findlay. Since her last appearance in 2013, a lot has happened to both the Royal We and Hazel Findlay. We start the conversation with dissecting her own podcast, The Curious Climber. Then we move to talking about her mental training and coaching. Hazel … Continue reading "Enormocast 244: Hazel Findlay – A Work in Progress"

On Episode 243 of the Enormocast, I sit down with guide and climber, Miranda Oakley. Miranda busted out of Maryland just after college and never looked back. A job washing dishes in Tuolumne made her climbing dreams come true, but soon she was guiding hikes then climbs in Yosemite. Meanwhile, she was building skills for … Continue reading "Enormocast 243: Miranda Oakley – O, Brave New World"

Scott Franklin returns on this in-between-eps ep to spray down on the amazing folks he climbed with over the years, including his wife Gea Franklin (Phipps) and Lynn Hill. Also, I ask him about the 1988 Snowbird, UT International Climbing Comp and soloing Survival of the Fittest (5.13).

On episode 242 of the Enormocast, I run with one of the big dogs of the 80s, Scott Franklin. Scott was a prodigy shaking up the Gunks and the old ways in the early 80s. He then dropped the taboos against hang-dogging, bolting, top down inspection, and helped usher in the sport climbing revolution we … Continue reading "Enormocast 242: Scott Franklin – Mullets and Mavericks"

On Episode 241, I connect with climber and author, Jonathan Howland. Jonathan started climbing in the early 70s and spent much of that decade obsessed with the pursuit. Then a 20 year hiatus ensued, but Jonathan returned to the climbing-fold with a similar passion but a new outlook. Then tragedy hit, and as can often … Continue reading "Enormocast 241: Jonathan Howland – The Weight"

On Episode 240 of the Enormocast, I am joined by Maiza Lima. Maiza resides, more or less, in Great Falls, Montana, but her journey to that town has been a long and arduous one. Maiza was born and grew up in a remote village in Brazil, and in her teens, joined her mother to cross … Continue reading "Enormocast 240: Maiza Lima – The Long Way Home"

On Episode 239 of the Enormocast, I have the privilege to sit down with Gold Medalist, Janja Garnbret. A Slovenian climbing hero, Janja, of course, took Gold at the inaugural climbing Olympics, but before that she was already the winningest climbing athlete of all time. As she beams into the interview from Oliana, Catalunya, a … Continue reading "Enormocast 239: Janja Garnbret – Her Hardest Hue to Hold"

On episode 238 of the Enormocast, Tommy Caldwell shows up for his sophomore appearance on the podcast. A lot has gone down since his first show in 2016. Both Tommy and the Royal We had a child – his second. He wrote a New York Times best seller. He and Honnold put up a free … Continue reading "Enormocast 238 – Tommy Caldwell: Concerned Climbing Citizen"

On Episode 237 of the Enormocast, I catch up with freshly minted trad climber, Anna Hazelnutt. Anna cut her teeth on high-ball slab boulders in So Cal, but then turned to sport climbing in Catalunya. After a great season in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, she traded fun in the sun for windy and rainy on the … Continue reading "Enormocast 237: Anna Hazelnutt – Not Afraid to Try"

On Episode 236 of the Enormocast, I sit down next to, but for some reason not in, a hot springs pool with Malik Martin and Conrad Anker. Conrad and Malik met at Memphis Rox when Malik was working there, and the North Face had sent Conrad to check it out. Memphis Rox is a unique … Continue reading "Enormocast 236: Malik Martin and Conrad Anker – Brothers, Friends, and Countrymen"

On Episode 235, the 2022 TAPS Edition of the Enormocast has arrived. Returning curmudgeon, Andrew Bisharat, and I rough up FNG Andy Salo on this year’s nearly 2 hour show. Lined up at the guillotine this year are the notions that selling out is a bad thing, climbers are counterculture rebels and free thinkers, the … Continue reading "Enormocast 235: TAPS 2022 – This Podcast is For Sale Edition"

On Episode 234 of the Enormocast, I connect via lousy internet with Belgian, Siebe Vanhee. At the moment of recording, Siebe is sitting inside the famous “Caf” in Yosemite valley – the appropriate site of so much spray over the years. Siebe is in the valley with Sebastien Berthe to attempt the Dawn Wall. Siebe … Continue reading "Enormocast 234: Siebe Vanhee – The Talisman"