The Enormocast

On Episode 37, I sit down for what is probably the last episode from Studio A- the closet. The Royal We is getting thrown out on his royal ass because they’re selling the joint and he can’t afford to buy it (hint!). Duane Raleigh from Rock and Ice Magazine joins in for a discussion about … Continue reading "Episode 37: The Safety Dance with Duane Raleigh."

On Episode 36 of the Enormocast, I sit down with return guest BJ Sbarra and local guide and teacher Mike Schneiter to discuss new routing and bolting. In this episode, we manage to say “bolt” enough times to probably overload the servers over at the Supertopo Forum. Mike and BJ share their vast knowledge of … Continue reading "Episode 36: Choss Wranglers BJ Sbarra and Mike Schneiter."

On Episode 35 of the Enormocast, I lure Canadian climber Jen Olson to my closet with promises of glory. After giving her the tour of two thirds of the Bromuda Triangle (Rifle, Black Canyon, but not Indian Creek), Jen finally agreed to get on the mic and fill us in on how she ended up … Continue reading "Episode 35: Jen Olson- Lucky Number 7."

On this very special episode of the Enormocast, I post up a virtually unedited recording of the very first Live Enormocast. Recorded Saturday morning, April 27th at Steve’s Guitars in Carbondale, and during the 5Point Film Festival, the Live Ecast features guests Jonathan Thesenga, Kelly Cordes, Austin Siadak, Anson Fogel, and Jeff Hollenbaugh. Also, Sonnie … Continue reading "Episode 34: LIVE ENORMOCAST!"

On Episode 33 of the Enormocast, I lure yet another subject to the Rodeway Inn in Salt Lake City (I think I deserve a couple free nights for all this publicity, eh?). Wunderkind Jonathan Siegrist sits down to reveal his climbing pedigree and a stunning background on big routes. He tells of early beat-downs in … Continue reading "Episode 33: Jonathan Siegrist- Born to be a bad (and by that, we mean good)."

Hola! Bienvenidos al Episodio 32 con Paige Claassen. I am taking time out of my precious Euro climbing vacation to post this up for you! On this installment, I meet up with Paige in a seedy hotel in Salt Lake City during the darkest days of winter to find out what makes her tick. She … Continue reading "Episode 32: Paige Claassen- Climbing isn't everything."

Ho, Man! On Episode 31 of the Enormocast I lure Andrew Bisharat and Hayden Kennedy into the closet for an old-fashioned bro-down. Andrew and I discuss whether or not the recent ascent of La Dura Dura, AKA the hard hard hardest route in the world, even matters. Hayden tells the story of his Piolet d’Or … Continue reading "Episode 31: Hayden Kennedy + Andrew Bisharat + PBR = Frothy Climbing Spray."

On Episode 30, I travel to a place called Gun Barrel to meet up with climber and author Matt Samet. We talk about his days developing Rifle, and his start as a climber. Yes, European listeners, we love guns so much we name our neighborhoods and towns after them. More importantly, we discuss the events … Continue reading "Episode 30: Matt Samet- Climbing up from the depths of madness."

On Episode 29, I sit across a plastic Club Colombia table in Refugio La Roca from undercover bone-crusher Cody Roth. Despite appearances in Chuck Fryberger’s films and Andy Burr following Cody around like Paparazzi hunting Lohan, and despite him crushing 5.14 and V-hard, I postulate that Cody, AKA C.H.U.T, AKA The Critter, is an unknown … Continue reading "Episode 29: Cody Roth- Climbing Euro-Style"

On Episode 28, I bag with one clean shot, a perfectly healthy free-range Honnold. Alex sits down in a clean, well-lit place to expound on his life in the glare of the klieg lights . He tells us what it was like to lock eyes with the beautiful and mysterious Lara Logan, what it was … Continue reading "Episode 28: Alex Honnold- Calmer Than You Are"

On Episode 27, I chase down New Zealander Mayan Smith-Gobat in of all places, Grand Junction, Colorado. Mayan tells how she is holed up in the oddly frigid wasteland that is Colorado’s Western Slope to retool her mind and body into a killer android-like climbing machine. Who knew that GJ was such a hotbed of … Continue reading "Episode 27: Mayan Smith-Gobat – Mama don't take no mess."

On Episode 26, we sit down in Denver, Colorado with young alpinist Keven Landolt. Kevin is facing down leukemia and still dreaming of the mountains. He fills us in on what goes through his mind as he fights to keep his dignity as his body fails him. From diagnosis through a bone marrow transplant and … Continue reading "Episode 26: Kevin Landolt pushing back against the universe."

On Episode 25, our one year anniversary episode, we finish the Green River chronicles by floating and rapping about international climbing travel. Jonathan Thesenga and Brittany Griffith are both consummate world travelers and let us in on the beta for safe and satisfying touring abroad. From JT’s know before you go stance, to Brittany’s beta … Continue reading "Episode 25: On tour with JT and the BAG."

On Episode 24, we take a 1 hour cruise to a deserted island in the Green River to meet up with Brittany Anne Griffith- affectionately known to her friends as the BAG. Two parts Mary Anne, one part Ginger, a dash of the professor, and a scosh of Mrs Howell for good measure, Brittany brings … Continue reading "Episode 24: Brittany Griffith- Mary Anne with a vengeance."

On Episode 23 of the Enormocast, hotshot crack addict Mason Earle survives a near fatal fixie accident and arrives at the mobile studio ready to open his soul. We learn about his beginnings on the East Coast, his fateful first days in Indian Creek, a shameful ascent of El Cap and more. We are both … Continue reading "Episode 23: Mason Earle- Master of his domain."

On Episode 22, Andrew Bisharat and I discuss why hard climbing is so important to everyone. We hit on grades, appropriate hero worship, why Americans are the lifestyle climbers of the world, and how Ecstasy, sex, and climbing go together . Also, unbeknownst to him, we decide that Chris Sharma is the world’s saddest climber. … Continue reading "Episode 22: Climb hard and walk tall with Andrew Bisharat."

On Episode 21, James Lucas and I take a break from smoozing the Trade Show ladies to sit down for a chat. James dishes on his pie baking bombs and bad breaks, his career as perhaps the world’s only living redpoint soloist, his upcoming book about the Stone Monkey era in Yosemite, and how try … Continue reading "Episode 21: James Lucas- His finger in all the pies."

On Episode 20, return co-hosts BJ Sbarra and Steve Denny return to tackle listener mail. Among other fascinating tangents, we address passing slower parties, climbing addiction, daisy chains (again), why the post office blows, how to approach gumbies, and much much more. Also, my favorite email of all time (so far). Thrilling and spontaneous, Episode … Continue reading "Episode 20: Listener Mail Volume 1"

On Episode 19 of the Enormocast, co-host Chris Parker and I sit down for a rambling chat with one of the last Mountain Mystics, Jeff Jackson. Consummate climber, first ascensionist, yogi, father, husband, musician, Jeff has more than one engaging story to tell. Listen in as Chris and I sit jaw-dropped as Jefe describes his … Continue reading "Episode 19: Jeff Jackson- Journeyman, Mystic"

Episode 18 is here to make you feel lazy and weak. You’re welcome. Listen in as rock climbing legend Randy Leavitt admits to being  good at everything he tries. He works harder than you do, he wastes less time than you do, he’s smarter, stronger, and, frankly, better looking. This guy makes the Energizer Bunny … Continue reading "Episode 18: Randy Leavitt- Slackers Need Not Apply"

While posted up in the Rodeway Inn in Salt Lake City, the Enormocast hosted author and online mogul Brendan Leonard. After a series of shocks to his system, Brendan finally said “the hell with it” and packed up his Astro Van and hit the road. Now he brings us his witty and soulful writing from … Continue reading "Episode 17: Brendan Leonard, living the American dirtbag dream."

On Episode 16 of the Enormocast, I park the mobile studio in the park in Lander, WY for a conversation with climber and artist Kate Rutherford. Often confused for Laura Ingalls, Kate fills us in on her upbringing in the Alaskan bush. She has lead a charmed life that recently found her on the top … Continue reading "Episode 16: Kate Rutherford- light, slow, and lucky."

One Episode 15, I go in search of my lost youth by sitting down to rap with two young killers who quietly get it done. Everyman road warrior Steve Denny fills us in on how he saved Alex Honnold’s triple wall solo in Yosemite. Henry Nadell wants to do it all NOW, not when he … Continue reading "Episode 15: Those meddling kids, Steve Denny and Henry Nadell."

The Enormocast lures two new guests into the Rocky Mountain Bunker to banter about partners and why they bring more to the table than just a good belay. Guests Michael Logan and Jen Vennon Bisharat dish on what are the key qualities a partner has to have to carry the honor of holding their ropes. … Continue reading "Episode 14: Partners- More than just a soft catch."

On Episode 13, I meet up in the mobile studio with infamous climber Cedar Wright. Cedar fills us in on his hippy upbringing, his crash course in free soloing, and his days in the dirt in Yosemite Valley. Even though Cedar is known for his sarcastic wit, the Enormocast brings out his serious side as … Continue reading "Episode 13: Cedar Wright, witness to the sickness."

On Episode 12, I am joined by two lovely ladies, Gracyn and Tracy, in the home studio to hash out why its so hard for guys and girls to just be climbing buds. Gracyn thinks every guy wants her, I cop to being in love with every climbing partner I’ve ever had- male or female, … Continue reading "Episode 12: Girl, you'll be a woman soon (remix)."

Episode 11 is EPIC! Craig Demartino takes us blow by blow through his climbing accident which culminates (spoiler alert!) in losing his leg. He fights to survive, then he fights to regain his life, then fights to climb better than he ever did. The real deal doesn’t even come close to describing this guy. Guts, … Continue reading "Episode 11: What has two arms, one leg, and climbs like a mofo? Craig Demartino."

On the first double-digit episode of the Enormocast, co-host Kelly Cordes and I discuss the the films we saw at the 5Point Film Fest and outdoor film making in general. We end up deciding that climbers are the nerds of extreme sports. Turns out that big wave surfers and big falls kayakers are way, way … Continue reading "Episode 10: On our movie date, Kelly Cordes explains the coward's guide to alpinism."

In Episode 9, we start with a lengthy, then a short, then again lengthy discussion of author and climbing-crusader Sam Lightner’s special daisy chain. If you are still awake, then keep listening for stories of the infamous FOICers, Thailand, and why the Access Fund has your back. Not unlike his daisy chain, Sam can be … Continue reading "Episode 9: Sam Lightner fights for your right to party (climb)."

Episode 8 finds me in climber and flyer Steph Davis’ double-wide contending with her cat, Mao, her dog, Cajun, and her husband, Mario all futzing around in the background. Man, I can’t wait for PBR to build me a studio. Anyway, Steph and I mostly just reminisce about our shared past, but we do talk … Continue reading "Episode 8: Steph Davis needs a lawyer and some ginkgo biloba."

In Part 2 of my epic interview with Hayden Kennedy, we get to the bottom of the arguments against Jason Kruk and Hayden’s decision to chop the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. Hayden withers under my pillorying verbal attack, let me tell you. Begging for mercy. I also beg PBR for a sponsorship. Do you … Continue reading "Episode 7: Hayden Kennedy: Alpine Taliban or Patagonian Custodian™? (Part 2)"

Oh, man. On Episode 6 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a remote secret bunker deep in the Rockies with the man of the hour and my friend: Hayden Kennedy. HK comes clean about his season in Patagonia with Jason Kruk and their now infamous decision to remove the headwall bolt ladders on Cesare … Continue reading "Episode 6: Hayden Kennedy: Alpine Taliban or Patagonian Custodian™? (Part 1)"

On Episode 5, I sit down in Studio A with author and climber Andrew Bisharat. Andrew warms up to the idea of using his voice instead of his pen to communicate with the outside world and explains his philosophy behind writing, climbing, why Rock and Ice is like his family, and the best and worst … Continue reading "Episode 5: Andrew Bisharat prepares to die."

On Episode 4, I hang out in BJ Sbarra’s kitchen fending off his vicious dog, Thunderpup, while he goes on and on and on about his big deal website, splitterchoss.com. Ooh, Outside Magazine’s Top Ten Climbing Blog list, ooh, seven years old, ooh launched my internet career. Blah, blah, blah, BARK. Anyway, we talk about … Continue reading "Episode 4: BJ Sbarra (and Thunderpup) is here to inspire you."

In episode 3, I park the Enormocast headquarters outside the Alpinist headquarters to talk with alpinist and internet sensation Kelly Cordes. Kelly reports on the old daze and new days in Estes Park, Colorado, the Ouray Icefest, and the world’s most inappropriate Halloween costume. Always a pleasure to talk with this simple, yet complicated, dark, … Continue reading "Episode 3: Kelly Cordes is livin' life disaster style."

Chris and guest host Lisa Hathaway retire once again to the Oasis in Moab to explore the deep psychological underpinnings behind secret cliffs.  Necessary evil or just the realm of egotistical dickheads? Turns out it can all be explained by lewd metaphors involving blossoming sexuality.  

Cold weather and no bouldering forces Lisa Hathaway and Chris into the shelter of the Oasis trailer on the inaugural episode of the Enormocast. They try to decide who would last longer in a Zombie Apocalypse (ZA), and Chris dishes on why Italians are sorta like deer.