The Enormocast

On Episode 87 of the Enormocast, after some serious cajoling, I sit down in the Mobile Studio with my friend Madaleine Sorkin. A self-professed quiet and closed person, Madaleine is remarkably frank and forthcoming on an episode that deals with finding oneself through climbing, sexuality and gender politics, and her continued struggles with self identity. … Continue reading "Episode 87: Madaleine Sorkin- Become What You Are."

On Episode 86 of the Enormocast, I invite Mikey Schaefer- alpinist, rock climber, and photographer- into the Mobile Studio parked in Lander City Park for a chat. Mikey arrived just moments after a harsh allergic reaction rendered his eyes nearly useless. After a cold compress of PBR cans, and a couple administered orally, we sat down … Continue reading "Episode 86: Mikey Schaefer – The Force is Strong."

On Episode 85 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl. Barbara started off an obsessive phenom boulderer, but now she climbs hard, long, scary routes, and she’s no slouch on the sport routes, either. And, she recently dialed in the cracks, as well. Babsi, as she is also known, helps me … Continue reading "Episode 85: Barbara “Babsi” Zangerl – Leben und Lernen."

On Episode 84, I sit down in a clean well-lit place in SLC during The Black Diamond Rock Project with German climber Daniel Jung. Daniel shakes off a nap while talking about his upbringing in Deutschland. He chronicles his humble beginnings and inspirations to his modern day building of a local gym for his fellow … Continue reading "Episode 84: Daniel Jung – The Climber’s Climber."

On Episode 83 of the Enormocast, I sit down in front of a live audience at Bonfire Coffee in Carbondale, CO during the 5Point Film Festival with Hayden Kennedy, Andrew Bisharat, and Brenden Leonard. We discuss the mainstream media’s sudden love affair with rock climbing, social media, the internet and whether climbing has lost its … Continue reading "Episode 83: #instafacetweetmygram with Hayden Kennedy, Brendan Leonard, and Andrew Bisharat."

On Episode 82 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a magical place with mountaineering legend and Bozeman native, Jack Tackle. From the Montana to the Himalaya to Patagonia, and most importantly, to Alaska, Jack Tackle has set light and fast standards since before that was a “thing”. This dogged, humble, hardman is still revered … Continue reading "Episode 82: Jack Tackle – True Grit."

On Epsiode 81, I sit down at the Bonnie Springs Hotel during the Red Rock Rendezvous for a chat with a personal hero: Peter Croft. While I try to contain my fawning, Peter expounds on his relationship with John Bachar, the first free solo of Astroman, El Cap and Half Dome in a day, and … Continue reading "Episode 81: Peter Croft- Kid in a Candy Store."

On Episode 80 of the Enormocast, I lure Swiss climber Nina Caprez into the van down by the reservoir. Another exciting interview in the Spain chronicles, Nina charms the hell out of me by explaining why big climbing rules her world, why social media is not really her thing, and why she just isn’t that … Continue reading "Episode 80: Nina Caprez- For the love of climbing."

  On Episode 79 of the Enormocast, I get a decent recording from the live event at Mountain Gear‘s Red Rock Rendezvous. This premier climbing festival brings in hundreds for clinics, climbing, music, beer, and…well, lots of beer. My guests Libby Sauter, Ethan Pringle, and Andres Marin talked about fear, and in Ethan’s case loathing, … Continue reading "Episode 79- Fear, not loathing, in Las Vegas (Live)."

On Episode 78 of the Enormocast, I send some love north to America’s Hat with an interview with Canadian Superstar, Sonnie Trotter. Sonnie sits down in a van by a lake in Siurana, Spain to talk about his origins, his inspirations, and his journey through most of the disciplines that climbing has to offer. Living … Continue reading "Episode 78- Sonnie Trotter- Nicer Than You Are."

On Epsiode 77, I’m working hard for you on my Spanish vacation tracking down Austrian kraftpakets Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr. My friend Bernardo Giminez facilitated a meeting and Anna and Kilian were gracious enough to invite me into their temporary home to talk. In perfect English, they explain their military sponsorship, the Austrian climbing … Continue reading "Episode 77: Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber- The Iron Couple"

On Episode 76 of the Enormocast, I sit down deep in the heart of Catalunya with American climber Ethan Pringle. A wary and weary Ethan sits down to bare his soul about his motivations as a pro climber. Its not all proud sends and free shoes in Ethanlandia. Ethan talks about the evolution of his … Continue reading "Episode 76: Ethan Pringle- Don’t Call it a Comeback…"

On Episode 75 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Salt Lake City with visiting British jack-of-all-climbing-trades, Stevie Haston. Stevie has a reputation as a malcontent with a short fuse, but what I find on a somewhat blurry morning is a soft spoken and altogether warmer individual than the climbing world would have us expect. … Continue reading "Episode 75: Stevie Haston- Rad Reputation."

On Episode 74, we begin by celebrating the Enromocast’s 1 millionth download- Uncle Phil, I know it was you! Then I get to the conversation with The Access Fund Executive Director, Brady Robinson. Brady talks about talking his way into his post at the AF, being Jimmy Chin’s wingman, and all the amazing things that … Continue reading "Episode 74: Brady Robinson- The Accidental Advocate."

On Episode 73 of the Enormocast, I pay a visit to Devils Tower Legend, Frank Sanders. Frank runs the Devils Tower Lodge in the shadow of the Tower. His first magical trip to DT occurred in the early 70s, and he’s never lost that loving feeling. Frank’s climbing accomplishments span three continents, and include climbing … Continue reading "Episode 73: Frank Sanders- Man of the Tower."

On Episode 72 of the Enormocast, I barrel through record snow in the Previa to meet up with Kelly Cordes. Kelly has graced the Mobile Studio and the Live Stage on the Enormocast, but on this night, he proudly recounts the harrowing task of writing (and saying) The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy … Continue reading "Episode 72: Author Kelly Cordes- In Search of Justice."

On Episode 71 of the Enormocast, I sit down with New River Gorge climber and Team Texas alum, Jessa Goebel. It also happens to be the 3rd anniversary of the Enormocast. Whoopee! 3 years behind us. Good lord, that’s a lot of frothy spray. Jessa talks about rebelling in her youth and anchoring her attitude … Continue reading "Episode 71: Jessa Goebel- Making it work."

On Episode 70 of the Enormocast, we dip into the neglected mail bag for listener mail. My guests Simon Longacre, Steve Dilk, Tracy Wilson (from Episode 15), and I answer burning listener questions. What do you do about scary gumbies at the cliff? How do you pick up a hot climber girl? How to not … Continue reading "Episode 70: Listener Mail Volume 3"

On Episode 69 of the Enormocast, we present a LIVE show from the New River Gorge Craggin’ Classic. The Enormocast hosts guests Kenny Parker of Waterstone Outdoors and New River Guidebook Author Mikey Williams in the American Alpine Club campground above the New River Gorge. In front of a raucous crowd, we hash out the … Continue reading "Episode 69: Live Enormocast New River Gorge Craggin' Classic."

On Episode 68 of the Enormocast, I pull out one from a few months ago in Lander. Photographer and climber Becca Skinner sits down in the Mobile Studio for a deep talk. Becca fills us in on growing up in a climbing family, losing her beloved Uncle, Todd Skinner, and taking a step back from … Continue reading "Episode 68: Becca Skinner- Living the Legacy."

On Episode 67 of the Enormocast, I pull one more interview out of the dingy hotel in SLC. Dawn Glanc, from Episode 57: Mega pack, returns for a full interview. From 4×4 enthusiast to Black Hills badass, to Ouray CO homegirl, Dawn’s path to ice climbing and guiding was never set in stone. Also, Dawn … Continue reading "Episode 67: Dawn Glanc – The Icewoman Cometh."

                On Epsiode 66, I sit down in a dumpy hotel in SLC with Angela Van Wiemeersch. Angela’s story began on the sharp blades of competition skating and came full circle when she strapped on crampons for the first time. In the meantime, we hear about a whirlwind … Continue reading "Epsiode 66: Angela Vanwiemeersch- The Ice Gypsy"

On Episode 65 of the Enormocast, I sit down in some random hotel room in Salt Lake City for a chat with my good friend Russ Clune. Gunks local, long time hardman, world traveller, Clune fills us in on the beginnings of sport climbing, comp climbing, and the heyday of European free climbing. He participated … Continue reading "Episode 65: Russ Clune- The Lifer."

On Episode 64 of the Enormocast, I sit down will friends Bill Ramsey and Dan Mirsky. Bill is a climber who cut his teeth during the pre-sport days at Smith Rock, went on to develop the early hard climbing in the Red, and now tics routes at will in Vegas. Dan is an up and … Continue reading "Episode 64: Bill Ramsey and Dan Mirsky – The Student Becomes the Master."

On Episode 63 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio (this time, actually mobilized to Lander, WY) for some SCIENCE! Dr. Jared Vagy is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and an orthopedic specialist with a whole bunch of other letters after his name, and he has studied climbing injury prevention like nobody … Continue reading "Episode 63: Dr. Jared Vagy- The Climbing Doctor is in."

On Episode 62 of the Enormocast, dedicated boulderer Angie Payne is lured into the sweltering Mobile Studio for a deep talk about her inner workings. Angie candidly tells us about her struggles with perfectitude, expectations, and the midwest mindset. Climbing Vwhatever did not come easy to the former Cinci golden girl. Angie Payne took the … Continue reading "Episode 62: Angie Payne- Type A for Angela."

On Episode 61 of the Enormocast, I roll the mobile studio to the Northern Corner of the Bromuda Triangle for a sit down with author Don McGrath about his book, Vertical Mind. Along with Jeff Elison, Don wrote Vertical Mind about how to train the mind to work with the body in climbing, rather than, … Continue reading "Episode 61: Don McGrath and the Vertical Mind"

On Episode 60, we record a live one on Climbing Lawyer Dan Markoff’s deck overlooking Boulder, Colorado. Climbers Topher Donahue and Chris Van Leuven join me for a discussion of what it takes to lose that new climber smell, and replace it with old trad-climber stink. The sometimes contentious discussion ranges from toothbrush shaving, to … Continue reading "Episode 60: Building a Better Climber w/ Topher Donahue and Chris Van Leuven"

On Episode 59 of the Enormocast, I finally lure the elusive (at least for me) artist Jeremy Collins into the Enormostudio for a chat. The free-range convo covers art, family, faith, climbing, and expeditions. Jeremy explains where the connection between his art and his love of climbing intersect, and how climbing is more than just … Continue reading "Episode 59: Jeremy Collins – The Art of Climbing."

              On Episode 58, the Enormocast breaks the boulderer drought by bringing on compression problem savant, Chris Schulte. Chris arrived in Carbondale to bartend for the 5Point Film Festival, and graciously followed up his mini interview on Episode 57 with a full length sit down. Chris talks of his … Continue reading "Episode 58: Chris Schulte – Bouldering sensei."

On Episode 57 of the Enormocast, we blaze through four separate mini-interviews with four excellent climbers recorded at the 2014 Redrock Renedezvous. Nik Berry is a young(er) guy coming out of SLC and destroying everything he touches, with a recent free ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall under his belt. Chris Shulte is a soul-boulderer with … Continue reading "Episode 57: Enormocast Mega Pack"

On Episode 56 (not 55!) of the Enormocast, I fight the sound of the clinking coffee cups and the hiss of the espresso machine to bring you a Live Enormocast from Bonfire Coffee in Carbondale. The winds of 5Point Film Festival brought my three guests to town: agitator Jonathan Thesenga, OG photog Chris Noble, and … Continue reading "Episode 56: Live Enormocast from Bonfire Coffee."

On Episode 55 of the Enormocast, I seek out mad desert climber Eric Bjornstad. Though confined to a care facility in Moab, Eric is as bearded and bright-eyed as ever. He recounts his years climbing with Beckey, writing guidebooks, and mastering the dirtbag dream in a pre-outdoor-lifestyle Moab few can remember. Other than his homie … Continue reading "Episode 55: Eric Bjornstad- OD (Original Dirtbag)."

On Episode 54, the Royal We sits down with a bevy of ladies to talk about what makes the perfect climbing male. We discuss superfluous shirt-off climbing, buddy spray, and if climbing hard makes one sexier. A gallon of Cabernet, some nice curtains, and my deep tenor is all it took to get the ladies … Continue reading "Episode 54: Lady's Night at the Enormocast"

On Episode 53 of the Enormocast, Josh Wharton and I grow drowsy in an uncomfortably warm conference room at the George Something-or-other library in Boulder. Josh shares the highs and lows of his upbringing, talks about his scariest moment in a life of scary moments, and admits that he cried through his first climbing expedition. … Continue reading "Episode 53: Josh Wharton- Too good to flail."

On Episode 52, we wrap up the second half of my epic interview with Lynn Hill. See Part 1 here. Believing that she could do it was all that it really took for Lynn to free the Nose in 1993, and again in a day in 1994 (nearly 20 years ago! Holy crap!). This feat … Continue reading "Episode 52: Lynn Hill- Ain’t No Mountain High Enough. Part 2."

On Episode 51, I have posted up the first half of a far-reaching interview with legend Lynn Hill. In this installment, Lynn talks about her near death experience, her beginnings in So Cal, and her association with some of the greats from those halcyon days in the 70s in Josh. She also reveals why she … Continue reading "Episode 51: Lynn Hill- Ain’t No Mountain High Enough. Part 1"

On Episode 50, Brendan Leonard returns to the show for an interview with your not-so-humble host, Chris Kalous. Chris talks about his strange premeditated journey to climbing, his vision for the Enormocast, and even manages NOT to say Free Rider, or the Black Canyon (but a couple Indian Creeks do slip in). You asked for … Continue reading "Episode 50: Chris Kalous- Dancing with myself."

On Episode 49 of the Enormocast, we rebroadcast audio from the 5point Aspen event from Feb 2013. During that event, I hosted Alex Honnold and Michael and Hayden Kennedy in front of a capacity crowd at the Wheeler Opera House in Aspen. Honnold is conspicuously low key, Hayden is a smartass, and Michael drops wisdom … Continue reading "Episode 49: On Stage with Honnold and Kennedy²."

On Episode 48 of the Enormocast, we arrive at the two year anniversary of the Enormocast! Whoot! I know. Right? More importantly, British hotshot Hazel Findlay sits down in the Mobile Studio amidst an unfortunate desert blizzard to fill us in on her origins in the British climbing scene, her life as a sponsored monkey, … Continue reading "Episode 48: Hazel Findlay – Being blonde, bold, and resolute!"

On Episode 47, James Lucas returns to the Enormocast. If we recall, James told us about his pie baking defeat in the 2012 Carbondale Mountain Fair pie baking contest in Episode 21, and this summer he returned for vengeance on the old ladies of Carbondale. James also fills us in on the new developments this … Continue reading "Episode 47: James Lucas- The Life of Pie."

On Episode 46, the Enormocast reunites with Jen Vennon Bisharat and Michael Logan from Episode 14 for another Listener Mail Hoedown. On this installment, we revisit guy/girl climbing issues, and we try to throw a lifeline to a lost listener trapped in Slovakia. We discuss grade chasing and free climbing and why we are all … Continue reading "Episode 46: Listener Mail Volume Two"

On Episode 45 of the Enormocast, I sit down with kayaker slash ice climber Aaron Mulkey. With the strength of 10 men, Aaron attacks both first descents and first ascents with zeal and unwavering psyche. Aaron admits that he’s a bit of an adrenaline junky and a lucky optimist that gets in over his head … Continue reading "Episode 45: Aaron Mulkey- Cold, wet and loving it."

On Episode 44 of the Enormocast, a chance meeting leads to an enlightening interview with Iraq war vet Joshua Brandon. Josh explains how struggles with PTSD led him to finding solace in the mountains and climbing (turns out that mountaineering has many of the thrills of combat but without the guys shooting at you). He … Continue reading "Episode 44: Joshua Brandon alive and well in the mountains."

On Episode 43 of the Enormocast, the Royal We sits down in the immobile studio with Asa Firestone. Asa recently started a company called Beyond Gear to help his mission to get underprivileged Brazilian kids out climbing on their neighborhood rocks. Asa talks about his mission, his lost partner, and why we all need to … Continue reading "Episode 43: Asa Firestone – Beyond Climbing."

On Episode 42 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Midwestern refugee, Luke Mehall. Luke is an author, publisher, poet, and climber who is not afraid to bear and bare his soul on the written page. In Episode 42, we remember Zines, learn about when it is and isn’t appropriate to inundate a women with … Continue reading "Episode 42: Luke Mehall- Keeping the Dirtbag Faith."

On Episode 41, I have the distinct pleasure and honor to sit down with one of my heroes, Paul Piana. Paul spent the 80s and 90s defining big free climbing along with his intrepid partner, Todd Skinner. These cowboys shirked tradition and set new standards for big rock climbs all over the continent, hemisphere, and … Continue reading "Episode 41: Paul Piana, Rock Climbing Legend."

On Episode 40 of the Enormocast, I sit Doug Shepherd down in my comfortably air conditioned hotel room on a sweltering SLC day to discuss alpine climbing. A relative unknown, Doug has climbed in the greater ranges of North and South America and quietly racked up impressive ascents and the respect of his more famous … Continue reading "Episode 40: Doug Shepherd- Too smart to be stupid."

One Episode 39 of the Enormocast, me and Henry Barber nurse mild hangovers and sit down to talk about his 45 years of climbing. In the 70s, neither your crag nor your women were safe from Hot Henry’s talents. Henry rode the wave of clean climbing and free climbing in the 70s into history with … Continue reading "Episode 39: Henry Barber, enough said."

On Episode 38 of the Enormocast, I eek out one more closet interview with Cincinnati rapper/climber/artist Kris Odub Hampton. Kris is an interesting character who traveled an unusual path to climbing from the mean streets of Cinci. His provocative climbing rap songs have drawn admirers and haters alike. But we also see the soft side … Continue reading "Episode 38: Kris Odub Hampton learns that falling is floating."