The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Bill Ramsey is a legend. He had achieved near mythical status in the Red River Gorge by the time I started paying attention to sport climbing. Pioneering many of the best hard sport climbs that now draw flocks of people to Kentucky’s steep sandstone crags, Bill wasn’t the typical 24 year old developer with a part time job and nowhere specific to be. He was a Professor of Philosophy at The University of Notre Dame - an over 14 hour round trip to and from The Red - a drive that Bill made weekly. His routes Omaha Beach, Transworld Depravity, Golden Boy, and The Return of Darth Moll, among many other classics, came from this period. He’s done 26 5.14’s - 25 of those after turning 40. Bill recently checked one of his life list, Randy Leavitt’s stunning Jumbo Pumping Hate (14a) at Clark Mountain. He had just turned 59 and was a few days from hip surgery. To say that Bill is dedicated is a massive understatement, and we haven’t even mentioned his training sessions. Without going too far into detail, Bill has found that marathon sessions work well for him, and he’s stuck to that with great results. Perhaps most intriguing, and most universally applicable, is his idea of The Pain Box, which we discuss in the episode. As I get older it gets a little tougher to find the same inspiration in the 20 year old crushers that I once did, and there just aren’t that many 40+ year old climbers still chasing progression. Bill has always been someone I’ve looked up to as not only a great example of perseverance and dedication in his climbing, but in his life choices as well. Bill moved from a tenured position at Notre Dame to UNLV so that he could be closer to the year round climbing in Las Vegas. Not content with a schedule that he could fill with climbing and training, Bill gives back to the community as Vice President of the Southern Nevada Climber’s Coalition. Every step of the way, a legend. You can find Bill's full Pain Box essay at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2019/11/11/ep-150-a-philosophy-of-sending-with-bill-ramsey We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

For Dr. Jared Vagy's third appearance on the podcast, we decided to tackle a few hotly debated topics - things like stretching, prehab, training "dangerous" grip positions, and more. If you haven't listened to Episodes 88 and 107, featuring Jared's Rock Rehab Pyramid, they are worth the time. You can find Dr. Vagy online at www.theclimbingdoctor.com You can get his book, Climb Injury Free, at https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/ Great video from Quinn Henoch on static stretching that we reference in the episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgL8GkzpNsw We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Episode 12 with Will Anglin and Rowland Chen quickly became a cult classic. Today we bring them back for P.O.E. Part 2, a follow up to examine how the P.O.E. path they had both embarked on had worked out. If you haven't yet, it will be to your benefit to go back and listen to that episode. Go ahead. We'll wait. Both, despite their lives getting busier, have made big progress - not an easy thing to do when you're already climbing at a high level. There have been mistakes, reassessment, taking things too far, desk jobs, and less free time, but they've found their way to progress. Be prepared to laugh, but you might also want to take notes. You can find Rowland on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/rowwlaaand/ You can find Will on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/wlanglin/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Science and Data are increasingly popular in training for climbing, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance. He's built a strong following on Instagram, and is giving solid information to coaches and climbers all over the world, but as with any post on social media, much of the context is lost. Context that I feel is massively important. In this episode Tyler and I sit down at The Donut Distillery in Nashville, on our way to teach together at the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, to discuss how to look at the research, whether science is the end all be all, and what exactly is the context for all of this information. We also reveal the winner of the Instagram Donut Contest! You can find Tyler at https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/ and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/c4hp You can register for the next Performance Climbing Coach Seminar at https://performanceclimbingcoach.com/ We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

A home wall can be an extremely valuable tool to have at your disposal. Deciding to have one is easy, but that one decision will open up a world of damned near impossible to make decisions. Set board or spray wall? If a board, which one? If a spray wall, what angles, what density, WHICH GRIPS?? So. Many. Decisions. In this episode Nate and I sit down at Tension Climbing to talk with Will Anglin and Michael Rosato about the first of those impossible decisions - board or spray wall. They have both at their disposal at the Tension Climbing Center, so they intimately understand the benefits and challenges of each. One of those challenges is that it can be tough to fit a set board into many homewall user spaces. Tension has come up with a solution - their SHORT (H:10ft x W:8ft) and SHORT AND NARROW (H:10ft x W:5ft) “crops” of the Tension Board. It’s essentially the same set, just cropped to a smaller dimension with it’s own set of problems in the Tension App. These guys just keep innovating. Learn more about the new Cropped Tension boards at: https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/tension-board-sets/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

"A room full of superheroes," is how this conversation was described by an Australian climber at Mt. Arapiles. He's not wrong. In this episode I sit down in Blackheath at the home of Tom O'Halloran and Amanda Watts with a who's who of Aussie climbing to discuss the idea of Intentional Community. Besides Tom and Amanda, we talk with Lee Cossey and Andrea Hah, Lee and Sam Cujes, Julian Saunders, David Brailey, and Vince Day. While we're missing a few key Blackheathens, we got a pretty good representation.  Stick around to the very end!  You can find the Baffle Days podcast HERE and HERE Connect with Amanda Watts nutrition services HERE Check out Day Gallery HERE Connect with Dr. J - Julian Saunders HERE Everyone on Instagram at: https://www.instagram.com/tom_ohalloran https://www.instagram.com/a.mandawatts https://www.instagram.com/leecossey https://www.instagram.com/andreahah https://www.instagram.com/flashandsass https://www.instagram.com/david_brailey https://www.instagram.com/leecujes https://www.instagram.com/day_gallery_blackheath   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Hangboarding is overrated, but it's also important. Please, for the sake of all that is good in humanity, listen to Episode 143 before you listen to this one. Every time someone listens to this episode out of order, the climbing gods will remove the obvious start to another undiscovered classic boulder. Don't let this happen! In this episode Nate and I sit down to discuss the antithesis to the previous episode. Hangboarding is important. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Yes, you read that correctly. OVERRATED. In this episode Nate and I sit down to discuss the top 5 reasons why one of the most popular forms of training for climbing is simply being blown out of proportion. Sue me. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I'm fairly sure I've gotten more DMs asking when this episode is coming than any other. And it's a good one. Today's guest is Moonboard legend Ravioli Biceps - the first (and currently only?) person to send all of the Benchmarks on the 2016 Moonboard set. We discuss his history with the Moonboard as well as his struggle with the transition to identifying as a "Moonboarder". We also find out about the genesis of the name Ravioli Biceps. Legend. To see the shirts mentioned in the episode go HERE. To buy the shirts go HERE. Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Sometimes you're improving, but the grades don't reflect that. Does that mean you're on a forever plateau? In this episode I sit down in the Red River Gorge with Aussie legend Lee Cujes - really just to learn more about him. We didn't have a specific direction we wanted to go when we sat down. I just knew I should turn the mic on and ask him questions. Besides being always stoked for climbing and training, Lee also has an incredible outlook on progression and doing it his way. An outlook that a lot of us could take a piece away from to improve our own. To learn more about Lee and his history, be on the lookout for an Enormocast episode coming soon and listen to this excellent episode from Aussie podcast Baffle Days. You can find Lee on Instagram at www.instagram.com/leecujes We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this Board Meeting, Nate is temporarily replaced by our Strength and Conditioning Coach, Paul Corsaro. Paul is a kettlebell expert (among other things), and has converted me. We discuss our top 5 reasons for continuing to use kettlebells in our own training as well as in programming for our athletes. You can find our Kettlebells for Climbers plan at https://gumroad.com/l/LNxaD You can find Paul at www.cruxconditioning.com We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

If Australian Lee Cossey lived in North America, he’d be a name mentioned alongside Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter as one of the best all around climbers on the planet. That’s because he IS one of the best all around climbers on the planet. For some reason, despite the internet making information easy to share, we in the US are largely blind to what else - or who else - is out there. Lee has not only established and climbed 5.14+ and hard double digits boulders, he’s also freed several El Cap routes - done in a single push with no fixed ropes - and climbed huge Patagonian walls (Riders on the Storm). He’s also a physio and climbing coach. And husband. And dad. Lee’s wife, Andrea Hah, who makes a cameo in this episode, is an exercise physiologist and bonafide badass herself - maybe Australia’s best female all around climber. She and Lee own and operate Move Clinic, a one stop shop for keeping and making athletes strong and healthy, as well as Camp Street Climbing, an adjoining climbing gym, both located in Katoomba. I sat down with Lee at his home in the Blue Mountains to discuss some of his philosophies as both a coach and as one of Australia’s strongest (and best) climbers. He’s a legend around there - deservedly so - and like so many legends in this sport, you’d never know unless someone else pointed it out for him. I’m here to point it out. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Honorary co-host Dru Mack is back in the building, and this time we're talking about what might be Dru's bread and butter - endurance climbing. We both learned to climb in the Red River Gorge, an area famous for it's steep, pumpy climbing, so we both think we're experts on the subject, and we both believe that many of today's coaches are getting it wrong. We're also, concurrently with this episode, dropping a training program that Dru and I have spent the last week building specifically for people who are going to be heading to the Red River Gorge - though it can be useful for trips to anywhere with the same pumpy style. Red River Pump Prep is an 8 week online group training program, complete with video descriptions for each workout as well as a group chat with both Dru and I for the duration of the plan. There are only 25 spots available! You can find out more at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/pumpprep You can find Dru at www.drumackclimbs.com and on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Nate and I sit down to discuss an important topic - the top 5 reasons why people who train and train and train still can't improve their climbing outdoors. It can be a struggle - there isn't a 1:1 return on training investment, particularly if you don't have a few key things in place. Do you fall into one of these categories? If so, level up! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

As the National Coach for Sport Climbing Australia, Will Hammersla has a tough job. The Olympics are now in play, and in a country as spread out as Australia, where it can be 10 hours between major cities, cultivating a "team" is damn near impossible. But he's working at it on a bedrock of solid principles and philosophies, and the work seems to be paying off. Support the Australian National Team at https://www.gofundme.com/f/2019-international-coaching-season Find Will and Tri Climbing at https://tri-climbing.com.au/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The first of the Oz Tapes! In this episode I sit down with Anna Davey, a professional climber from Perth, Western Australia. Anna has a healthy following on social media, and as a result, gets her fair share of haters. But I know that's only a tiny part of the story - one that starts with a big dream and a lot of hard work. Anna puts in that work and is living her dream. You can find Anna on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/anna.davey You can listen to a great podcast episode with her at Baffle Days Podcast. You can follow Anna on Youtube HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Nate and I aren't always in the same place, but we still want to talk about things. So this is going to be a new, ongoing format - short board meetings done remotely. We plan to discuss current events, hot topics, training ideas - whatever. Could be damn near anything. In this episode we discuss an often argued about aspect of training - Should you or shouldn't you train the full crimp and pocket grips? We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Created by the coaches of Power Company Climbing, "EMPOWERED: A Bouldering Intensive" is a 3 day bouldering seminar aimed to provide the self-coached climber with the tools and tactics needed to construct effective training plans, analyze their own movement, track measurable progress, and engage a productive mental approach when bouldering. Where: Crux Conditioning, Chattanooga, TN When: December 13-15, 2019 Fri: 10am - 6pm Sat: 8am - 6pm Sun: 8am - 2pm *PARTICIPANTS MUST BE 18+ * You can register at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/empowered It's gonna fill up fast - get in now! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Every week I get emails asking about how to start a small business in the climbing space. While I do my best to answer these questions, I also have many of my own. Dave and Yusuf, along with Dave's brother Dan, are some of the people I turn to when I have those questions - or just for short chats that I always walk away from with several important ideas. Climb SoiLL is opening a new gym, and as a community based business, I wanted to know how that process has been - as well as the building of a business successful enough to expand in the first place. I sit down with Dave and Yusuf the morning after an exciting and packed SoiLL Showdown to talk through the building of a business and a loyal community. You can learn more about the new gym and see the announcement video mentioned in the episode at https://stcharles.climbsoill.com/ You can visit the original Power Plant location at https://climbsoill.com/ You can find Climb SoiLL on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/climbsoill We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Epic. If you haven't listened to Part 1 yet, go do it NOW. It should already be right there in your pocket super computer. In this episode I sit down at a campfire in the Red River Gorge with Mo, who recently completed her trip to Lotus Flower Tower and the World Championships. Find out how it all went. You can find Mo at www.moinmountains.com You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mo.in.mountains We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Mo Beck is a professional climber, 2019 National Geographic Adventurer of the Year, multiple time World Champion, stand up comedian (not really but she should be) and all around BADASS. In this episode, Part 1 of 2, we sit down in a busy Outdoor Retailer hallway to discuss a little of her background, her work with the US Adaptive Athletes, and her big looming trip to the Lotus Flower Tower in Canada's Cirque of the Unclimbables with fellow adaptive climber Jim Ewing. Not to mention, how's she simultaneously trying to train for it AND the World Championships immediately after her trip. Don't miss Ep. 131 - Part 2, where I catch up with Mo in Red River Gorge for a post-trip follow up. It should already be in your feed! You can find Mo at www.moinmountains.com You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mo.in.mountains We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is one of the most open pros out there, and this conversation is no different. Between competition and notching ascents of some of the planets most inspiring lines of up to 14b and V13, she's waged her fair share of battles. In this episode we sit down and discuss roadtrip projects, the difference between competition pressure and redpoint pressure, and what it means to try something you ultimately may fail on. You can find Mina at www.minalesliewujastyk.com You can find Mina on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/minaclimbing You can check out Project Mina at https://vimeo.com/ondemand/projectmina We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down for an emotional conversation with my good friends Dru Mack and Lee Smith about the interesting topic of mentorship. How it starts, what it means, and what happens when the student surpasses the teacher. Some say that mentorship is dying. I'm not sure that's true, though mentors are definitely outnumbered by new climbers. As such, it's evolving into something entirely different. Dru and Lee's relationship has straddled these changes, and has evolved into something totally new. Something that while it may not look the same on the outside, has to be founded in trust and direction. You can find Lee on Instagram HERE. You can find Dru on Instagram HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Sam Elias really needs no introduction. He's one of America's top sport climbers, so it's likely you've heard of him. While some climbers cultivate an image that is extremely shallow and limited, it's not so with Sam. He wears his heart on his sleeve - as well as his ruminations with that fact. It's been fascinating to watch Sam openly mature in both his climbing and his approach to life, and it's no coincidence that his climbing has continued to elevate as a result. You can see the Shadowboxing checklist and links to Sam's recent video project with Russ Clune at http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2019/4/23/episode-127-thoughtful-process-with-sam-elias You can find Sam at www.bookofsamuel.com You can find Sam on instagram at www.instagram.com/bookofsamuel We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I'm back in the States and back on the podcast grind. I apologize for the absence. Sort of, but not really. I was rock climbing, and that's gonna win over podcast every time. ANYWAY... Today's guest is Emily Moore, the Events Manager for the Climbing Wall Association. Last spring I attended the CWA Summit and was blown away by the event. It's what I always hoped Outdoor Retailer would be, but never was. It was not only a networking and meeting space, but also a place for learning from other experts in the industry and for hearing about emerging ideas and conversations. Brilliant. Emily has a passion for making all of this happen, and she's very good at it. How she does it all so elegantly, I have no idea, but it happens. You can find out more about CWA at https://climbingwallindustry.site-ym.com/default.aspx You can register for the Summit at https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/ Check out the upcoming Performance Climbing Coach Seminars at www.performanceclimbingcoach.com We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We went a little overboard on our Oz Tour 2019 Tee Shirts, so we decided to give a few away if you can answer a few questions. I scoured the depths of Australian Climbing Trivia to find these 11 questions - some gimmes and some damned hard. Here's how it works: 1. Screenshot this podcast (any episode). 2. Share the screenshot to Instagram. Tag 2 friends who may be able to answer the questions as well. 3. Answer the question and include the question number. 4. Tag me (@powercompanyclimbing) and use the hashtag #OzClimbingTrivia If you're the first to answer, I'll message you for your address (only open to people in Australia) and I'll send you a Tour Tee! You can find the Airbnb mentioned at https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/6124587?s=51 Mention you're a climber before you book and you'll get a discount! We don't tweet. We scream like Drop Bears. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Yoga and meditation have been practiced for thousands of years, so there's far more to it than the core strength, flexibility, and mental focus promoted by popular culture. Being an absolute neophyte in both worlds, I wanted to learn from someone who is steeped in the traditions - but willing to explore outside the constraints of that tradition. Susan Ashley Hunt is a spiritual teacher and Buddhist who also happens to have found a passion in climbing. Her holistic and common sense approach to both meditation and yoga are interesting to me, and she makes easy comparisons to climbing and life. You can find Sue at www.livelightlyyoga.com You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com To check out the Airbnb in the Blue Mountains, go to https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/6124587?s=51 Don't forget to message her and tell her that you're a climber for a discount - tell her we sent you! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

It's become accepted that climbers should be lifting weights if we want to maximize our athletic potential. But why exactly? We have lots of reasons, but these are our top 5. This Board Meeting is a little different. Since our board has grown, so should our Board Meetings. In this episode, rather than Nate, I'm talking to our Strength and Conditioning Coach, Paul Corsaro. The format you've come to know and love is alive and well, and Nate will return soon, but since Paul is an expert in this topic, it seemed like a no brainer. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Nate and I sit down to answer a few questions submitted through our Instagram Story. Many of the questions were related, so we've tried to piece together a narrative of sorts that answers these questions. More coming! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

While I like to think that all of our discussions here are important, some are just plain bigger picture than others. This one falls into the bigger picture category. Recorded live at the 2018 CWA Summit, the Women in Climbing discussion brought up many great points and offered several learning opportunities for everyone present. Special thanks to all of the panelists and to the CWA, particularly Emily Moore and Laura Allured, for allowing me to broadcast this discussion. The discussion was moderated by Renee DeAngelis, and included Lynn Hill, Shelma Jun, Halcy Webster, Sophia Danenberg, Stephanie Ko Pound, and Becca Droz. NOTE: The url for the CWA Summit given in the episode is incorrect. You can find the correct url below. To find out more about the panelists, go to https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/women-in-climbing-plenary To find out more or to register for the CWA Summit, go to www.climbingwallsummit.org Follow the CWA on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/climbingwallassociation/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

For most of you reading this, the truth is that the pros are better than you. Why? Are they special in some way? Some of them don't even "train"! How the hell did they get so good? Nate and I sit down after recording several other episodes and drinking several beers, to discuss the top 5 reasons why the pros are so good. Some reasons you can use to improve your own climbing, some that just depend on your situation. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dark Horse, Climber's Climber, Undercover Crusher - whatever you want to call it - today's guest Brian Antheunisse may be it. If you don't closely follow the comp scene or deviate from the typical climbing news cycle, that is. But if you pay attention, you know and respect the name. I've been aware of Brian for quite some time, and got the chance to sit down with him and discuss his on and off 9 year epic battle with the Fred Nicole testpiece Esperanze (V14). Finding a nemesis in V14 is really not much different than finding one in your first V4. The same lessons, the same frustrations, and maybe, just maybe, the same elation. You can find Brian on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/bantheunisse/ You can see video of the Texas Legends Comp at https://youtu.be/hTIzNN3BAsU The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's guest needs absolutely no introduction, but I'm honored to introduce her anyway. She is famed Spanish researcher, coach and climber Eva Lopez. We sat down in Salt Lake City to discuss the reactions to her research about finger strength, and to find out once and for all, What is the best hangboard protocol? You can find Eva and her Fingerboard Training Guide at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/ You can read Eva's research papers HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Ayo Sopeju is a competitive climber, head setter at The Minneapolis Bouldering Project, and an artist who takes the utmost care with his work. This care carries over to all that he does - setting, conversation, everything. I wanted to know where the intersection of his detailed art and his setting happens, and how the calmness and flow he exudes coexists with the competition mindset. At Ayo's suggestion, we sat down for our conversation at the Minneapolis Institute of Art, which turned out to be the perfect place for this episode. Check out Ayo's art at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/12/26/episode-117-form-and-function-with-ayo-sopeju Follow Ayo on Instagram at www.instagram.com/think_ele We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This past October in Minneapolis I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch - recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie. We talk about coming up in a very testosterone driven climbing culture - one that has shaped much of how Kyra climbs. We discuss her spinal fusion surgery and how that does - or does not - limit her. And of course we get into training for the Olympics, and Kyra's recent switch to full time climbing and training. You can find Kyra at https://www.kyracondie.com/ You can follow Kyra on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kyra_condie We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We all create some sort of mythology around certain routes or grades - a mythology that often says "you don't belong on this route!" Todays guest, Brittany Goris, is no exception to that rule - except that she somehow pushes right through that mythology and sends those routes. I wanted to know how. I first learned of Brittany after she redpointed the Index testpiece "City Park", a 13c/d fingercrack with a rich history, and thus, mythology. One that she wasn't immune to, yet she pushed through it. You can find Brittany online at http://soclosewiz.tumblr.com/ and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/gorisb We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with two high-powered women, Eva Lopez and Esther Smith, to discuss how we deal with climbing injury. Not necessarily the details of how to rehab, but best practices for prevention, psychologically coping with, and getting back to climbing after these injuries. You can find Esther Smith at http://www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com/ You can find Eva Lopez at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The final part of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in. To Recap: 5. Bad timing - getting into redpoint attempts too early or too late. 4. Getting stuck in bad beta. 3. Making the wrong links or letting links expire. 2. Spending too much time on one route or projecting in general. 1. Projecting in the wrong range. You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in. You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in. You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part 2 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in. You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

For today's Board Meeting, Nate and I sat down with Red River legend Dru Mack to discuss the top 5 most common pitfalls of redpointing. It's a complex process - one that we've all made our share of mistakes in. This conversation ended up being around 2.5 hours long, so I've decided to split it into 5 bite sized pieces over the next week. You can find Dru on the instagram at https://www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with Episode 64 alum Trevor Ragan. If you haven't listened to Ep 64 yet... go do that now. We'll wait. Trevor and I caught up after a TED X Talk he gave in Lander, to discuss the principles and theories behind motor learning. I quite selfishly gave him scenarios and examples using the drills we've created for our workshops and coaching, and asked how he might improve upon them based on the research behind motor learning. If you're a coach, this is a must listen to episode. In fact, if you're a climber who wants to learn to climb better, it's a must listen. You can find Trevor at www.trainugly.com You can find our Movement Skills ebook, built from these principles, HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Technically, this is Part 2 and 3. If you haven't listened to Part 1, Episode 88, you should do that. In this episode I sit down with Jared at the CWA to discuss the 2nd and 3rd steps - strength and movement - in his Rock Rehab Pyramid - a system of preventing and rehabbing climbing injuries. You can find the book, Climb Injury Free, on Dr. Vagy's website HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Joslynn Corredor is the definition of strength and courage. Not only is she a hard working strength trainer, but she’s made some of the toughest choices there are to make in the face of adversity. With an identity wrapped in being a strong bodied, athletic woman, Jos was diagnosed with the gene mutation BRCA1, meaning that the likelihood of developing breast cancer was high. This left her with what could have been an agonizing decision that threatened the identity she’d worked so hard to cultivate, but Jos came prepared. Find Jos online at https://www.bodyenroute.com/the-g/2018/9/16/facing-my-risks Find links to BRCA resources at http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/10/6/episode-106-strength-identity-and-cancer-with-joslynn-corredor We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Fame and authenticity don’t always go hand in hand. We’d love to believe that in climbing they always do, but that just isn’t the case. As someone who makes their living in a very public way within the climbing industry, I’m hyper aware of my own authenticity, and I watch other public figures in our tiny sphere to see how they navigate. Because Sasha is at the top, I watch her closely. In this episode Sasha and I sit down in her house in Boulder, CO to discuss her recent trip to Alberta, Canada. She drove north alone, after a break up and social media firestorm, to climb the Rockies Trilogy first established by Sonnie Trotter. Three 5.14 Big Walls. No small undertaking. She struggled, doubted, pulled it back together and sent, and she found out in a big way how to reconnect to the roots of her climbing. You can find Sasha at www.sasha-digiulian.com You can check out our new Circuit Tape at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/circuit-tape Get the Core Strength for Climbers ebook at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ebook We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Nate and I break from the Top 5 format to have a simple discussion about how climbers are products of our environment. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

My good friend and Episode 16 guest Dru Mack stopped by during the International Climbers Festival in Lander to chat, and of course the conversation turned to climbing. He told me about a list that Jonathan Siegrist had created for him - a list that is a surefire way to make sure that Dru's development as a climber isn't lacking. I needed to know more, so I sat down with Dru, Nate, and our friend John Wesely to discuss the list, and the potential growth (and pitfalls) that might be involved in the attempts at completing the list. There's also some very important commentary from a special guest. We always have a lot of fun in this podcast, but this episode was particularly fun to record and put together. I've known Dru since his first 5.12's, so it's fun to see him progressing both in climbing and in life. Dru has become a Red River superstar, and well on his way to taking that to a larger platform. Since JStar so graciously offered his help, we thought it would be great if Dru came up with similar lists for the up and coming Red River Climbers. Dru drafted his lists, Nate and I critiqued, and eventually the lists were finalized. We wanted to follow the format JStar had put forth - some of the routes are going to feel hard for the grade. Some of them are going to teach you new skills. You'll learn from every one of them. So download them to your phone, print them out, stash them in your guidebook. Have Dru sign your copy when you see him. DOWNLOAD THE LISTS HERE FOLLOW DRU ON INSTAGRAM We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's episode is a question and answer session from our Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, recorded live in Columbia, MD. On our final day the participants asked questions of our presenters, including Steve Bechtel and Charlie Manganiello from Climb Strong, Neely Quinn from TrainingBeta, Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance, and Kelly Drager from the Canadian Climbing Team. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Don't get us wrong... we LOVE gyms. And if your only goal is to be as good as you can in your gym, then you can skip this episode. However, if you want to be prepared for the outdoors, then this episode will be important for you. Gyms are businesses and have to operate as such. They make prudent decisions that are beneficial for them as businesses, but aren't necesarily good for you as a rock climber. In this episode Nate and I discuss the Top 5 decisions that gyms make (often from necessity) that are holding you back from your outdoor goals. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.