The Power Company Climbing Podcast

With the seemingly endless amount of information available online these days, and the newest training trends popping up in reel after reel on our feeds, it can be pretty tough to know what to keep and what to toss when it comes to our own training, and really tempting to overcomplicate things. In this Board Meeting, Kris chats with our very own coach Nadya Suntay to remind us why it’s better to keep it simple. Interested in working with Nadya? She's always available to coach you through one of our Proven Plans! Or check out her Custom Training availability! Follow Nadya on Instagram! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Looking for a sport climbing destination where you can climb comfortably from mid-Spring through mid-Fall? Look no further than Wild Iris, with its high elevation, low humidity, and perfectly-pocketed limestone walls. Wyoming local Leif Gasch has been climbing at Wild Iris for more than 25 years. While his life and travels have taken him all over, he and his wife Lindsay are happy to once again call Lander home. Head over to this episode's blog post to see Kris and Leif's picks for Must-Do Routes, Overlooked Classics, guidebook recommendations, and more. Also be sure to check out our Trip Prep Plans for Wild Iris! Support WyoClimbers – Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance. Find Leif and Substr8 Climbing Performance online and on Instagram. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Nearly 15 years ago, with the FA of her route Meltdown, Beth Rodden gave us one of the hardest crack lines in Yosemite – if not the world – helping to solidify the role women have played in the development of hard rock climbing. Since then, she’s also solidified herself as one of the leading voices in support of body positivity and healthier ideas surrounding body image in climbing. Today we REWIND to this conversation about parenting, identity, and climbing with the great Beth Rodden. Watch “Above the Fray” – a short film about Beth. Follow Beth on Instagram. Articles: Beth Rodden's Thoughts On Mentorship And Vulnerability In Today's Climbing World Climbing's Send-At-All-Costs Culture Almost Ruined Me Climbing, Motherhood, and Body Image This episode originally aired on February 17, 2018. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

If you already spend 4 or 5 days a week climbing for your job as a setter, is it a good idea – or even just a feasible one – to take on a training program? How do you find the additional time, energy, and motivation? Plus, aren’t you just asking for an injury? In today’s Board Meeting episode, our very own coach Jess West answers these questions and more, providing valuable insight as to how setters can smartly and safely train for their goals. Interested in working with Jess? Check her availability HERE. Follow Jess on Instagram. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Don’t be fooled by Patty Law’s small frame and soft-spoken demeanor – she’s a fierce climber, mother, entrepreneur, and community cultivator. She’s been welcoming climbers through the doors of her gyms and into a thriving Cincinnati climbing community for more than 20 years now. Kris sits down with his long-time friend to talk about about her journey from a climbing-obsessed college student to a successful businesswoman and community leader. Find Climb Time Blue Ash online and on Instagram! Find Climb Time Oakley online and on Instagram! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In January 2015, 7 years ago this week, I, along with countless others including many non-climbers, was glued to a saga happening on the side of El Cap. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson were battling it out on what would become the world's hardest big wall free route, the Dawn Wall, and it was being streamed live. We watched as they topped out on January 14th after a tension-filled week in which Tommy had showed the world, in real-time, one of the most important things about climbing: partnership. So now, 7 years later almost to the day, that Tommy and Kevin topped out the Dawn Wall together, we are going to REWIND to this conversation about belief and partnership with one of the best all-around climbers on the planet, Tommy Caldwell. This episode originally aired on October 26, 2017. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

“It's all about the process.” Sure, the journey is important, but so is the destination. It's not all about the journey. It’s about mapping out the journey that gets you to the intended destination. So is there a way to care about the outcome without making it the focus? In this REMIX episode, we'll hear from athletes Sam Elias and Alex Megos, learning expert Trevor Regan, and mental training coach Arno Ilgner about how we can care about the outcome, but stay focused on the process. REVISIT THE ORIGINAL EPISODES FEATURED IN THIS REMIX: Process vs. Goal Based Motivation with Arno Ilgner Fixed vs. Growth Mindset with Trevor Ragan Thoughtful Process with Sam Elias Alex Megos and Ken Etzel | Rotpunkt Music in this episode comes from Blue Dot Sessions. Spindash Sylvestor The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Nominate the most inspiring ascents of 2022 at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ascent Support the podcast and get bonus episodes at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

Kris and Nate sit down to discuss some of the perks and pitfalls of climbing in today’s modern mega gyms, and give some tips on how to deal with them. They’ll talk about how to handle things when the new sets are crowded, the gym is overrun with team kids, the bouldering wall is full of “weird” comp style setting, and you’re afraid attempting a boulder’s top out might cost you an ankle. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we're listening to the first episode of Built Outdoors, a new show Kris is hosting, with Amy Skinner and Joan Chase from the iconic gear shop, Wild Iris Mountain Sports. They talk history of the store and how it's inextricably linked to the rise of climbing in Lander, community, and business in a small mountain town. Check out Episode 2 of Built Outdoors with Jay Halford from Backcountry Cobblers on the Plug Tone Outdoors Channel. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Certified Nutrition Specialist and co-host of The Average Climber Podcast, Caitlin Holmes, sits down with Kris to discuss body composition, which is often conflated with weight loss and can thus be a very polarizing topic. Learn more about Caitlin and how you can work with her. Follow Caitlin on Instagram. CHECK OUT CAITLIN’S NEW COURSE: BODY COMP PRO Body Comp Pro is a 4-week self-guided course for active individuals who want to learn how to change their body composition. This course will help you master your understanding of what really impacts body composition and the what, the why, and the how when it comes to body composition changes. By investing in this course, here's what you'll receive: An understanding of the diet and lifestyle factors you should consider when seeking body composition changes. The tools you need to estimate your energy and macronutrient intake. Knowledge of when to prioritize changes to body composition including weight loss and muscle gain. How to pursue safe and effective changes to your body composition. Save $50 by enrolling before December 16th and receive immediate access to the Body Comp Pro Masterclass. No coupon needed - discount already applied! Full course becomes available January 9th, 2023. Enroll now in Body Comp Pro! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Back in September, at the 8th annual Joe’s Valley Festival, Kris sat down to talk to local legend and longtime crusher Steven Jeffery, about how climbing has evolved since he first came onto the scene. They reflect on how today’s online resources like digital guidebooks and social media have impacted climbing. Check out Steven's new guidebook on KAYA Pro! Use code JV2WEEKS to get 2 weeks FREE! Join the Joe's Valley Coalition! Watch Reel Rock's United States of Joe's! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris and fellow Power Company coach, Taylor Fragomeni, sit down and discuss how you can make the transition from indoor to outdoor climbing easier on yourself. They’ll dive into the specifics with ways to: warm up well outdoors, even when a crag’s “warmups” aren’t great. prepare yourself for using “bad” feet outdoors. practice pacing yourself appropriately for changing difficulty throughout routes outdoors. making difficult clips outdoors. Find Taylor at Tangent Climbing. Follow Taylor on Instagram. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In today’s episode, Kris sits down with shaper and setter Roy Quanstrom, of Tension Climbing. They talk about Roy’s newest holds from Trango, the Khans and the Fuegos, and the climbing experiences that inspired their design. Check out the Khans and the Fuegos, from Trango Holds. Find Roy at Tension Climbing. Follow Roy on Instagram. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In today’s episode, Kris sits down to catch up with fellow climbing coach, Eric Hörst. They chat about how some big life shifts – Eric’s retirement, the success of his nutrition brand, PhysiVantage, and becoming an empty nester – have impacted his climbing and training. Learn more with training resources from Eric. Learn more about PhysiVantage Nutrition. Follow Eric on Instagram. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode, from our other podcast, Breaking Beta, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Relationships With Sport Performance Authored by Marcin Maciejczyk, Michail Lubomirov Michailov, Magdalena Więcek, Jadwiga Szymura, Robert Rokowski, Zbigniew Szygula, and Ralph Beneke; published in Frontiers in Physiology in January, 2022. They’ll explain the different energy systems and how they were measured in the study using three finger flexor muscle tests. They’ll consider how well these measurements can act as reliable performance indicators for climbing. Special thanks to AJ Sobrilsky at Excel Physical Therapy in Bozeman and also the Climb Strong team for suggesting this paper! New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, tell all of your friends who have their energy system training totally dialed in but say “Take!” as soon as they are getting pumped, that you have the perfect podcast for them. Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Season 2 of Breaking Beta is proudly supported by Gnarly Sports Nutrition. For a limited time, Breaking Beta listeners can take 15% off their purchase using the code BETA15 at checkout! Or simply click the link above to shop and have the discount automatically applied. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

I’m actually not a big fan of the term “drills”, but I don’t have a better word for it. I don’t like it for several reasons: One, because we aren’t “drilling” anything in. Despite the popular belief, that’s not actually how learning works. Performance, maybe, but not learning. And in my book, these “drills” are for learning. Two, there are just too many coaches who assume that harder equals better. They just keep stacking difficulties onto their drills as if those difficulties are all going to make you better at climbing. Now we see climbers bouncing one-legged on a Bosu Ball balanced on a slackline while blindfolded and miming rose moves because… WHY? Yeah, I don’t know either. And today, we’re going to talk about why that might not be the best solution. In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode, Kris and Nate are joined by coach Lauren Abernathy and nutritionist Caitlin Holmes of The Average Climber Podcast. The four discuss some of the biggest ways they see climbers getting in their own way. They chat about the impact that shifting your perspective can have, how easy it can be to get caught up in comparing yourself to others, and why reading all the Mountain Project comments on that route you’re psyched to check out might not be the best idea. Plus, they’ll answer a question that’s been plaguing climbers for ages: what’s the best brand of gummy bears? Find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing. Find Caitlin online at Dirt Bag Nutrition. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

You’re a coach, or a climbing partner, or simply a concerned friend. You’re watching your client, student, partner, or bestie struggle. And you want to help. But how? That’s actually a great question. Because the answer is situational. It entirely depends on the goal. Today, we’re going to learn why. In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

You’ve heard of the SAID principle, right? S-A-I-D: Specific Adaptations to Imposed Demands. You’ve heard of it. And you thought that it meant simply that to get better at climbing, you have to climb on boulders that look just like the climbs you do outside, right? If that was you, you were in the majority. But you were wrong. Is climbing pulling straight down on edges? Not always. Is it compressing on slopers? Not always. Is it jumping from grip to grip? Sometimes. Is it moving slow and precise. Pretty often, actually. Is it full-crimping? Half-crimping? Open hand? 3 Finger Drag? Middle 2? Back 3? Mono? Crosley? Pinch? Back-stepping, drop-kneeing, twisted, square, toe-hooking, heel-hooking, edging, smearing, blah blah blah… Well, It’s all of these things. And thousands more things. It’s too much. So today, we’re going to learn a little more about what specificity actually means. In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Climbers are really good at creating a performance environment. Really, really good. No, I’m not saying that you’re good at performing – some of you suck at it and could use a lot of help –but you’re always TRYING to perform. But if you want to get better, that might be a big mistake. Today, we’re going to find out why. In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We are happy to announce that due to the generous donations from two anonymous donors, we are able to offer two scholarships for our 10 Week Coaching for Mastery Mentorship Group, as well as three spots for the course itself. Having worked with a lot of climbing coaches over the past decade, it’s been exciting to see the industry becoming more diverse. We want to do what we can to help that trend. Applications are open to everyone, with priority given to those who otherwise may not have the resources to participate. Applications will close on Monday, October 17th and winners will be notified later that week. Please share this post or link with your network, and particularly with the folks you know who deserve the opportunity - or you can pop into the applications and nominate someone yourself! Thanks. Learn more about the Coaching for Mastery Course. Apply for one of the Scholarships.

How to use data and measurements to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst Kris and the other Power Company coaches for years. That is until today’s guest, Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all. Dale and Kris chat about how and why Power Company Climbing collects certain measurements from their clients. They discuss the usefulness of these measurements in predicting climbing performance and how this data can be helpful to coaches when designing programming. They also talk about how important it is not to get too wrapped up in the numbers, and how easily many climbers fall into the trap of training to improve numbers rather than to reach their goals. DISCUSSED IN THIS EPISODE: How Power Company Climbing uses data and measurements in their program design. How Kris and Dale personally use data in their own climbing and training. Which measurements seem to “matter” - and which don’t. The downside of putting too much stock in numbers. Learn more about Metrics for Climbers from Dale. See the charts and tables we've compiled based on our ever-growing data set. Let Dale crunch the numbers for you with our Mini-Assessment + Analysis. Check out the newest course from the Power Company Climbing Academy, Coaching for Mastery, available now! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Do you have a default climbing mode? If so, do you value the other side? In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the two approaches to sending - tactics vs. going to battle - and how we can better learn both sides. Check out the Coaching for Mastery course! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode, Kris and Nate sit down to talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Looking for a winter bouldering destination with seemingly endless amounts of rock, hosting classic problems of every grade, all within driving distance of one of the coolest cities in the Southeast? Look no further than Chattanooga. Juliet Hammer first climbed in the Chattanooga area as a college student at the University of Virginia and has recently returned to the area after living in Colorado for a number of years. She’s since then racked up an impressive tick-list of southeastern sends, and even walked away with the win at last year’s Triple Crown Bouldering Series. Now she’s helping climbers reach their goals as a coach. Hear more from her in this previous episode. Head over to this episode's blog post to see Kris and Juliet's picks for Must-Do Boulders, Overlooked Classics, guidebook recommendations, and more. Support the Southeastern Climbers Coalition! Find Juliet on Instagram and at her website! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

As wildfires become more common and powerful, the Giant Sequoias of the American West are burning at alarming rates. These enormous beings stand at a few hundred feet in height and a hundred feet in diameter. Due to climate change and 100 years of human mismanagement, the forests where these Sequoias live are being lost to wildfire. In this episode, Kris sits down with Sam Prentice, District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, to speak about how wildfires are impacting our Giant Sequoia groves, the surrounding communities, and what we can do about it. This episode also dives into our history of fire management, or mismanagement, in the United States, and how current government bodies and nonprofits are not on the same page for a mitigation plan. Links from this episode: Save The Sequoias Act 10 Tips to Prevent Wildfires Smokey Bear’s Helpful Website The Sequoia Conservation Fund Read the Access Fund article about how wildfires are impacting climbers. Plug Tone Outdoors is part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Check out our website or follow along on Instagram to learn more about our other shows. This episode of Plug Tone Outdoors was created and produced by Kris Hampton. Music by Mepa Melson, Serge Quadrado, Anton Vlasov, LesFM and Coma Media from Pixabay.com Find a full transcript of this episode, images from Sam, and more, at the blog post for this episode. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Every summer, Kris emcees the International Climbers Festival here in Lander, Wyoming. One of his favorite parts of doing the event is being able to introduce the keynote speakers. It was quite a lineup this year, with big names like Chris Kalous and Brittany Goris. But it was one of the opening speakers who ended up stealing the show: Indian climber and force of nature, Prerna Dangi. Prerna’s time in Lander was just one of many stops she’s making this year on a big climbing trip throughout the US. With plenty of hours logged in the alpine, on a rope, and over crash pads, she’s got experience and goals on ice, rock, and beyond. But her biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India. DISCUSSED IN THIS EPISODE: How Prerna got her start in climbing. The climbing scene in India and how it differs from here in the US. The ongoing development of climbing in India. How organizations like CLAW (Climb Like a Woman) are empowering women in India to climb. How Prerna is finding her power — as a climber, a role model, and a community leader. Support Prerna through The Climbing Leadership Fund! Learn more about CLAW - Climb Like a Woman! Follow Prerna on Instagram! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's episode comes from Hip Hop Taught Me Everything, another podcast hosted by Kris Hampton and part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Without a strong rhyme to step to. Think of how many weak shows you slept through. Time's up. I'm sorry I kept you. -Rakim, "I Know You Got Soul" Follow all of our shows at: Hip Hop Taught Me Everything Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Plug Tone Outdoors Plug Tone Audio We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Welcome. There's a lot to get caught up on. Let's get into it. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Resin, rosin, pof. Whatever you call it, it's widely accepted that we should NOT use it while climbing. It's said to ruin holds - both indoors and out. Now it might be in your chalk. Block, liquid, and powder. This is a public service announcement. Learn more about the science of climbing on Breaking Beta. Read more about pof and rosin usage: UK Climbing Forum To Pof or Not To Pof? UK Bergzeit Journal Why Climbers Started Using Chalk Removing Rosin from Liquid Chalk We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Ten years ago this week in April, 2012, Rannveig Aamodt made a nearly fatal mistake while cleaning the anchors of a sport route in Turkey. She fell 50 feet to the ground, shattering her back, pelvis, arm, and both ankles. We won’t be going into what caused the accident, but you can read that story, including some heart wrenching excerpts, at her blog about the accident. Instead, this episode is about her recovery. The physical and mental approach she took. The resilience and the will. It’s about how she went from clinging to life, to climbing harder than ever, and what it took to get back on the sharp end, and past the spectre of that moment. This conversation originally aired on February 19, 2016. Find Rannveig online: Her Site. Instagram. Facebook. Gallery of rehab photos from Nathan Welton The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we're revisiting Episode 4 of The Average Climber Podcast. If you aren't already subscribed to their show, go do that now! Learn more about The Average Climber Podcast. Find Lauren at Good Spray Climbing. Find Caitlin at Caitlin Holmes Nutrition. If you haven't listened to Breaking Beta Season 1, get caught up now! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Check out the new course at the Power Company Climbing Academy - The Shape of Power. You'll get: Nearly 3 hours of discussion and instructional videos with Nate and Kris. In-depth analysis of 10 bouldering case studies, both indoor and out. 4 Practice Sessions to help you start using these skills in the gym. Downloadable Course Guide Ebook. Self-paced instruction and unlimited access to course materials. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This episode is the first 40 minutes of a nearly 2 hour long episode about gamifying climbing, and the pros and cons of individual popular games that many of us play. To get the final hour of this episode, and at least 2 bonus Board Meetings every month, become a Patron! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode we hear from Emily Holland at Nature Untold, in a re-airing of her episode Eating Disorder Recovery - We Can All Do Better Together. Featured in this episode are Dr. Jennifer Gaudiani, Jenna Celmer, and Caroline Wickes. Resources for eating disorders: The Gaudiani Clinic Website The Gaudiani Clinic Instagram (has free resources and information) Full Gaudiani Clinic Resources List Catch up with Jenna Celmer: Jenna’s Instagram Catch up with Caroline Wickes: Caroline’s Instagram Article: Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating-Disorder Intervention? Episode: Caroline Wickes | Eating Disorders in Climbing Thank you, as always, for listening to this episode. Please follow along on the show’s Instagram, our private Facebook group, or wherever you’d like. We also have a Patreon if you’re interested in supporting everything Nature Untold is cooking up. ______________________________ Learn more about Hip Hop Taught Me Everything. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta. In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019. They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come! *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them. Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

2 million downloads. Whew. Who knew, 260-some episodes ago that we'd get here? To say thanks for all of the support, I've got 3 bonuses for you: #1: This episode is a bonus from the We Scream Like Eagles Patron Only Podcast. If you're interested in getting more like this, you can become a Patron. #2: We're giving away three free self-guided Proven Plans. To enter to win, all you have to do is sign up for the Plug Tone Audio newsletter. You can do that at the bottom of the page at www.plugtoneaudio.com We'll be drawing the three winners on Friday, 2/28/22 #3: I'm taking a break. I'll be working on Plug Tone and building new shows for you, and I'll be back with renewed focus, a slightly new format, and an even better version of this show. Thanks. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Climbing gyms have become big business. Giant gyms are popping up all over the world, with bigger walls, more holds, and massive square footage - but what of the community? Is it being left behind in favor of selling memberships? Not necessarily. Long time climbers Josh Muller and Regan Kennedy own Bolder Climbing Community in Calgary, and through their branding and community-focused efforts, they’ve built a thriving business that withstood the pandemic and still keeps them excited to climb. In this episode I sit down with Josh, gym manager Jordan Jasper, and photographer/videographer Nic Nolet to discuss the idea of community and what it means to each of them. In this episode we discuss: Why having “community” in the name is important. How a welcoming community draws people in. The role of mentors. Should gym mentorship extend to the outdoors? How gym layout and merch can help build community. How building community translates to good business. Find Bolder Climbing Community online. Bolder on Instagram. Josh on Instagram. Jordan on Instagram. Nic on Instagram. Work with Nic on your photo and video projects. _____________________________________________________ Check out our Proven Plans and be ready for the spring season! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The best coaches understand more than just which muscle is the prime mover in a specific lift. They understand sports science, behavior, habits, motivation, and maybe most important: struggle. Aman Anderson understands all of these things and more. And he thinks big. As if being a small business and gym owner isn’t enough, Aman also dedicates his time to coaching the next generation of climbers and building one of the most exciting competitions to hit climbing in many years: The Beast Fingers Loud Climbing Combine. The BFL Combine is a blend of sports science, climbing culture, and urban culture. Loud music, deep bass, strong climbers, and feats of strength. The next combine will happen on April 9, 2022 in Denver, CO. Get Registered! Beast Fingers Climbing Beast Fingers on Instagram BFL Combine on Instagram Watch the video about Aman. If you want to get involved, email Aman at [email protected] ________________________________ The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Climbing is complicated. It’s physical, emotional, psychological, and depending on the person, tends to either quiet or amplify the things you have going on outside of climbing. Not to mention, the climbing community can come with its own bad habits that might feed your demons. Emily Holland is a podcast coach and host of the incredible podcast Nature Untold. She tells stories of addiction and recovery in the outdoor community. Today we tell her story. A story of how sobriety helped her find her way back to climbing, and how a supportive community has made all the difference. In this episode we discuss: Why climbing was a toxic place for her. What changed her mindset. How’s she’s leaning in a little at a time. The role that sobriety - and Nature Untold - played. How a caring community can make the difference. Find Emily online. Learn more about Nature Untold. Find Emily on Instagram at Instagram We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Whether a Moon Board, Tension Board, Grasshopper, Kilter, or any of the other number of boards making their way into climbing gyms or homes worldwide, there are certainly ways to get more out of them. Assuming you have other options for training and climbing, there are also many things the boards don't do so well. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the ups and downs of board climbing, including a collection of drills we've made specifically for the boards. Check out our Proven Plans. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The Climbing Initiative is a nonprofit supporting the sustainable and equitable growth of climbing worldwide. It began in 2019 as a research project at Yale University documenting the international expansion of climbing and its economic, social, and environmental effects. Now the group advises climbing organizations, spreads best practices, and works directly with climbing communities around the world to help them flourish. Today I sit down with Executive Director Veronica Baker to discuss the mission of The Climbing Initiative (TCI) and the challenges they - and we as the global climbing community - face. We also discuss their Best Practices project - a collection of living documents that is gathering the voices of climbing leaders around the world to shape the future development of our sport. As climbing grows, it is having incredible economic, social, and environmental impacts. Climbers are creating new hotspots for ecotourism, building tight-knit communities, advocating for the conservation of natural areas, and using climbing to uplift and inspire. In their work partnering with local climbing communities, they’ve connected with many climbing leaders paving the way with innovative approaches. As a result, the Best Practices are focused on six main areas: crag development & maintenance environmental conservation equity & inclusivity community engagement economic impact building climbing organizations Support The Climbing Initiative. Check out the Best Practices. Watch the Access Fund videos we mention in the episode. Find TCI on Instagram. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with my friend Lauren Abernathy, who you might recognize from Good Spray Coaching. We first discuss the change from being a weekend warrior to being in the midst of her first trip specifically for a big, ambitious project as a full time coach who can climb when she wants to. We also get into the challenges of being a female coach - having your expertise questioned and dealing with the abundance of mostly male internet idiots. You can find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing. Follow her on Instagram. From now until the end of December, use the code GOODSPRAY to get 20% off of any of her self-guided programs you'll find HERE. NEW PLUGTONE PODCAST ALERT! Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday Dec. 8th! We are happy to welcome Switchback: An Outdoor Community Podcast hosted by Kelsee Keitel, a licensed educator and outdoor based mental health counselor. You can listen to a short episode that I really enjoyed, Curiosity Killed the Criticism, on Spotify or on Apple Podcasts. And in this very episode we announce a brand new podcast we have in development! Go listen! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Introducing a new podcast brought to you by Power Company Climbing, Crux Conditioning, and Plug Tone Audio: Breaking Beta! Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers? That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you. In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is often cited by climbers on their quest to improve. We’ll take each study, break it into its components, explain it in a way that doesn’t make your eyes glaze over, and then discuss what we find useful and as well as the ways in which these studies are so wildly misinterpreted by damn near every one of us. Season 1 of Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday, December 8th. Every week for 10 weeks we’ll be getting deep into finger strength, tendon health, creatine, flexibility, climbing specific injury, and more. What the research says, what it doesn’t, and how you’ve been getting it all wrong. Make sure you’re subscribed, hit the follow button on Spotify, and tell your friends to tell a friend. Particularly that one friend who is always citing his wild misinterpretation of the research. Tell him you’ve got the perfect podcast for him. Brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning. Find Kris and our main Breaking Beta content on Instagram. Find Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram. Get transcripts, citations, and more at our site. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord. Breaking Beta is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dear Alex, Congrats on 100 V10's! Follow Alex on Instagram. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Andy Leung is the head setter of Climb Time Cincinnati - a community that is near and dear to my heart. In this episode we discuss not only the career of routesetting, but also what it means to both the setter and the community, how it can help us all grow, and what to keep in mind in order to keep moving forward. Follow Andy on Instagram. Learn more about Climb Time. You can find the Breaking Beta Podcast on Spotify and on Apple Podcasts. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Kris and Nate discuss their individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see sport climbers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Kris and Nate discuss their individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see boulderers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session. Watch The Worst Punt of all Time video. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.