The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Eating disorders and disordered eating are a real, but often hidden problem in the sport of climbing, and many of us unwittingly perpetuate the idea that less weight is better. In this episode, Caroline Wickes and I sit down to discuss her personal experiences with eating disorders, as well as the things she learned while researching for her Climbing Magazine article, Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating Disorder Intervention? For help with an eating disorder, contact the NEDA Helpline. Check out the study from Lenae Joubert referenced in the episode. Check out the documentary film LIGHT. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

EPISODE 2motherfuckinghundred. WHAT?? Thanks for riding with us for all this time. In this episode, Kris gets grilled by friends Zach and Lana on all things about the podcast. Where we've been and where we're headed. Some of the other episodes mentioned in this episode are: Ep. 12 POE with Will Anglin and Rowland Chen Ep. 54 Feminism in Climbing with Shelma Jun Ep. 50 A Coaching Masterclass with Lantien Chu Ep. 57 Flow and Mental Mastery with Hazel Findlay Ep. 58 Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch Ep. 63 Belief and Partnership with Tommy Caldwell Ep. 64 Fixed vs. Growth Mindset with Trevor Regan Ep. 66 Now What? with Dan John Ep. 93 Being Good Climbing Partners with Scott Pagel and Tyler Algeo Ep. 98 Diversity in Climbing with Brown Girls Climb Ep. 118 The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez Ep. 129 Success and Failure with Mina Leslie Wujastyk Ep. 145 Intentional Community with The BlackHeathens Ep. 156 Try Harder with Troy Fauteux Ep. 173 Show Up As You Are with Devin Dabney Ep. 177 Black Joy with Mario Stanley and Dynell Hunter We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Hard climbing is, well, hard. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss one of the unrealistic expectations that training can bring about - that everything should just feel easy. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

You should absolutely take yourself over to Sends and Suffers and listen to this episode with pro climber Nina Williams, hosted by our dear friend, the incredible Mario Stanley. And be sure to check out more episodes of Sends and Suffers. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Hopefully, for most of us, 2020 was a year that showed us we need to be more cognizant of the language we use and the effects that it has. That shouldn't end with 2021. In this episode, Nate and I discuss the most popular terms in climbing that we aren't fans of. I'm a firm believer in the power of words. Intention and context are important, but equally important is how something is generally received. If I can help or allow people to try harder, feel more comfortable, and feel less excluded just by changing the use of a word - particularly a word that could easily be replaced like most terms in this sport - then I can't imagine why I wouldn't do it. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode, Zach and I discuss the ideal wall angle for training, maintaining good footwork when only climbing on steep walls, getting good use from vertical walls, and how to remain resilient as we get older. Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode, Zach and I discuss how often we repeat old projects, campus boards, motivation when you set by yourself, simulators, and forcing moves. Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode, Part 4 of 6, Zach and I discuss setting for specific movement drills, the benefits of getting bunchy instead of just going big, determining rough grades on a spray wall, how to set boulders that don't suck, and calling yourself out on repetitive setting. Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I asked, and we got a LOT of questions about home walls, spray walls, and the like, so we've split it into 6 parts - or more actually, since a few of the questions will warrant their own entire episode. In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we discuss marking and keeping track of problems, the value of old resin grips, volumes on a home wall, symmetric walls, and setting limit boulders. NOTE: We mention the Eat Spray Love app, but are aware that it's no longer a thing... These days, we've been using - and loving - Retro Flash. Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I asked, and we got a LOT of questions about home walls, spray walls, and the like, so we've split it into 6 parts - or more actually, since a few of the questions will warrant their own entire episode. In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we setting a spray wall, hold density and placement, training endurance on a home wall, and how to build a library of problems that are effective for your training. Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I asked, and we got a LOT of questions about home walls, spray walls, and the like, so we've split it into 6 parts - or more actually, since a few of the questions will warrant their own entire episode. In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we discuss climate control hacks, the ideal home wall, warming up when you don't have lots of jugs, getting holds, big holds on a small wall, jibs vs. heelhooks, and getting trapped into long sesssions. And there are 5 more parts!! Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW! The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I often hear climbers lament how difficult it is for them to climb or train with their partners who climb at a different level than they do. While I agree it can be hugely motivating to have a partner who is working on the same things that you are - who you can share beta and tactic ideas with - it's also 100% up to you to find the motivation to keep pushing when that partner doesn't materialize. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Through the vehicle of rock climbing, Mario Stanley coaches kids (and adults) to become better humans. He’s created programs for all ages, but perhaps the most interesting to many youth coaches out there are the teams he’s created as a feeder into the storied programs of Team Texas. His big personality translates to his mentorship. It’s powerful and you know without a doubt that Mario has your back. I appreciate that from a coach - and from a friend. Find Mario online at www.mariostanley.com Find him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mariostan Find Sends and Suffers on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/sendsandsuffers We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Taylor Fragomeni is a routesetter, coach, and all around genuine human. We met in Bozeman, MT at Spire, where she was the head setter and youth team coach. I was impressed by her place in the community as well as her approach to coaching, and we've been in contact since. We sat down at my house while Taylor was traveling from Bozeman to St. George for her new job at Contact Climbing to talk being female in the routesetting industry and lessons that she's taken from routesetting into coaching. Follow Taylor on Instagram. Train with her through Tangent Climbing. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I might impart wisdom, or I might cut your head off. That's really up to you. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The title says it all. We do it too much. We blame the routesetters for our own failings, our own shortcomings, our own lack of commitment, our own destructive ego. It's not their fault. Here's why... You can see the blogpost referenced in the episode at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/1/14/rock-climbs-make-terrible-gym-problems We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Eric Jerome loves lists. All kinds of them. Lucky for us, he also happens to be a brutally strong boulderer with a penchant for nerding out about all things bouldering. I sat down with Eric and special guest Max Zolotukhin (one of the few people with a nerd level to rival Eric’s) and did my best to hold my own in one of the nerdiest conversations this podcast has ever hosted. Turns out, we only got about 1/3rd of the way through what we needed to. Hopefully at some point I’ll get these two to sit down again for more in depth examination of the most subjective objective list ever created. You can find the Top 100 List, complete with videos, at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/top-100-boulders-us You can find Eric on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/eric.jerome We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In Part 3 of our series on Bouldering Tactics, Nate and I sit down to discuss the tools needed to be an effective boulderer. Ok, maybe not all of them are needed - but all of them can be helpful. Find the Crag Kit and Boulder Bag at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/essential-elements We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part 2 of 3. In this episode Nate and I sit down to try and parse out a topic that is FAR too big for one episode - bouldering tactics. We intended for this to be a 2-parter, but it ended up being over 3 hours total, so we're making it a 3 part series instead. You can find the new Crag Kit and Boulder Bag at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/essential-elements We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Nate and I sit down to try and parse out a topic that is FAR too big for one episode - bouldering tactics. We intended for this to be a 2-parter, but it ended up being over 3 hours total, so we're making it a 3 part series instead. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Brandon Belcher is an Atlanta based climber who loves slopers and cats and carefully chooses his words. Those words often carry an important impact - one that many of us need to better understand. You can find Brandon on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mr.bigstrings We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

It's been a hectic few weeks (months) over here, and I wanted to give you all an update on what we've been working on. So many exciting things coming! I also wanted to play you a short clip of a podcast episode I recently listened to that needs to get into more ears. Episode 11 of Sends and Suffers with Melissa Utomo - even though I knew of the situation - was eye opening for me. I think you'll want to hear it. Melissa on Sends and Suffers on Apple Podcasts Melissa on Sends and Suffers on Spotify Support the IndieGoGo! Sends and Suffers Website Melissa on Instagram Sends and Suffers on Instagram Mario on Instagram Get a signed copy of Big Walls by Paul Piana Level up your campus training with the new Power Strips! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. If you’re a regular listener, you may remember the conversation from Episode 106 with trainer Joslynn Corredor about her experience with breast cancer and identity after a double mastectomy. Since we last spoke, Jos has created a GoFundMe scholarship program for women who are going through similar situations to train with her. We all know that once being an athlete has become part of our identity, having it stripped away can be devastating. Jos aims to restore that identity for other women. You can donate to the GoFundMe at: https://www.gofundme.com/f/strength-after-a-mastectomy?utm_medium=sms&utm_source=product&utm_campaign=p_susi-sms-welcome You can find Jos online at bodyenroute.com Other good resources for more information and other non-profit organizations doing great things: https://www.politetumor.com/ https://thebreasties.org/ https://www.nationalbreastcancer.org/early-detection-of-breast-cancer/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Paul Piana is a legend. There's no debate about that. In this episode Paul and I sit down at my house and discuss his partnership with Todd Skinner and big dreams of big walls. We have a limited number of signed copies of Paul's 1997 book Big Walls: Breakthroughs on the Free Climbing Frontier. You can get them and find more information on the Todd Skinner Legacy Fund at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/paul-piana Register for Rocktoberfest at https://www.accelevents.com/e/RocktoberFest2020 You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This is one of the most special conversations I've ever been a part of. I didn't know what to expect going in, and my emotions surrounding this conversation took some time to work through. Thanks to Mario and Dynell for being so open and letting me - and us - into this love fest. You can find Mario and his podcast at https://mariostanley.com/sendsandsuffers We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We were all beginners once. Nate and I sit down to recount some of the worst pieces of advice we got as beginners, and what advice we wish we'd gotten instead. Check out our new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Recorded November 2018. Nate and I sit down with our fellow Power Company Coach Paul Corsaro to discuss the top 6 myths we see persisting in the climbing industry. Check out the new book at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth Find the new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Chad Andrews doesn't like the word retired - but he doesn't have to work in anymore - in his mid 30's. The way he got here is pretty simple, and he's entirely willing to share his methods. In this episode we discuss a subject that is strangely taboo - money. We look at some of the steps that climbers can take to become more secure with their financial future. Find more from Chad at https://clippingchains.com/category/about-us/ You can follow him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/clippingchains Check out our new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans Get those tiny feet at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/holds Check out the Women's Uprising Virtual Climbing Festival at www.wuclimbfestival.com We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Devin Dabney is a climber, setter, coach, poet, and rapper. He's a good friend of mine, and two years ago we sat down and recorded this conversation - without a plan and not really knowing what would come out of it. Now felt like the appropriate time to send it out into the world. We discuss race, tough conversations, mentorship, and making art. At this time Devin was just beginning to find his voice - one I've been proud to watch evolve and gain momentum. I hope that trend continues. You can find Devin's latest mixtape, If You Didn't Send, It's Too Late at https://deuceishiphop.bandcamp.com/album/if-you-didnt-send-its-too-late Devin is on Bandcamp at https://deuceishiphop.bandcamp.com/ On Spotify at https://open.spotify.com/artist/6217P5Z5V6r82cO6z0oX0y?si=4XveDS8yRkq_vgEq4m045Q And on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Genevive Walker is unapologetic. She knows that it takes all types to make change, and she has the unique ability to be many of those types all at once. In this episode I sit down with Genevive in between projecting days in Tensleep, WY - a very white town in a very white state that has no hate crime laws - to discuss racism and the ways it manifests in climbing. And what we can do about it. You can find Genevive at https://www.instagram.com/walkergenevive You can find Scott at https://www.instagram.com/dscottclarkphoto We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This conversation originally aired in July 2018. I repost it now because it's my starting point, and may be yours as well. Find Brown Girls Climb at www.browngirlsclimb.com Find our online uprising resources at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/uprising-resources We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Nate and I have a discussion inspired by Episode 3 of Revisionist History from Malcolm Gladwell titled The Big Man Can't Shoot. Malcolm discusses Granovetter's theory of the Threshold Model of Collective Behavior through the lens of shooting free throws. We work through it in terms of climbing. You can find The Hard Truth at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth You can review the book on Amazon HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This episode was recorded in Summer of 2018, but got lost in the archives. Now that climbing areas are beginning to open again, it seemed like a good time to resurrect it. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I try to answer a few great but not easy questions from our listeners. When do you keep grinding on a project vs. taking a step back and training for it? What are the differences of training in your 40's vs. your 20's and 30's? If 2nd Try Sends can help your longterm projects, can longterm projecting help you send faster? You can find The Hard Truth at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

So many people right now are struggling with motivation right now. Rather than give only my advice, I sought out the opinions of past and future guests including Sam Elias, Eva Lopez, Jonathan Siegriest, and many others. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Nate and I breakdown the lessons we learned from listening to Episode 412 of the Tim Ferriss podcast with guest Josh Waitzkin. Josh is the author of The Art of Learning, one of our favorite books, and has a great approach to the learning process. On Tim's podcast, Josh essentially asks the question "What holes do we have in our mental models for learning?" from the perspective of his new hobby. We try to apply the same questions and perspectives to climbing. The new book The Hard Truth is available for preorder at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We're switching things up and answering some of the good questions our community has for us. First up is a really great question that we should all be asking ourselves pretty much constantly - How do I know when to focus on getting better vs. getting stronger? Find The Hard Truth at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

It's a widely held belief - and rightfully so - that bouldering will help your sport climbing. But does it always work out that way? If not, why not? In this episode I sit down with Nate in Houston to discuss the mistakes that sport climbers make in using bouldering as training. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Let's be clear - not every trend is a good one. In this episode, Nate and I sit down in Houston to discuss the trends we've seen recently that we are glad to see becoming popular. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Literally every season, as soon as people are able to get outside, I get the same message. Dozens of times. "Why am I still getting pumped? The training didn't work! I wasted all that time!!" While I can almost understand the gut reaction when you've built up the expectations, I can't sympathize. You should know better. Now you will. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

It used to be that training for climbing was out in the open. Wolfgang trained for the hardest route in the world. John Bachar and the Stonemasters turned Camp 4 into a training gym. Tony Yaniro made no secrets about how hard he trained. Then sometime in the 90’s it became cool to NOT train. I’m not sure exactly when that was, but by the time I was climbing in the late 90’s there was a fairly large faction of climbers who were disgusted by the fact that some people chose to train. Recently the tides have changed, and Matt Fultz is one of the pro climbers who has led that charge. He’s not at all shy about his training habit - even going beyond the extremely climbing specific training that most pros will allow to be seen. What I didn’t expect was how much thought and deliberation Matt has put into his training. It kind of blew me away. A new breed of boulderer, Matt’s training shows up for him in big ways. A glance at his 8a scorecard shows nearly 500 double digit boulders up to V15/16. That’s no accident. In this episode Matt and I sit down a week before his annihilation of the Hueco Rock Rodeo (video below) for a wide ranging discussion on training, grades, weight loss, and more. Find Matt on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/matt_fultz/?hl=en Watch Matt rampage at the Hueco Rock Rodeo at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0odpC6_wcY We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Brittany Leavitt is an educator. By profession, by passion, and by choice. It’s a choice I appreciate. She’s also a listener, though maybe that goes hand in hand with being an educator. I sat down with Brittany because something about the way she presents herself online, and the fact that she's involved in EVERYTHING, made me want to know more about her perspective. She recently went on a roadtrip sponsored by Patagonia, on which she asked important questions to the people she met - I wanted to know how she would answer. You can find Brittany online at https://www.britleavitt.com/ You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/bleavitt8 Groups and Organizations Brittany is affiliated with: www.browngirlsclimb.com www.outdoorafro.com www.colorthecrag.com www.appalachiantrail.org/ Sign up for the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar at www.performanceclimbingcoach.com We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We've all done it, and not always for the right reasons. Find the new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Yves Gravelle is a legendary Canadian strongman, and pound for pound may have the strongest grip in the world. I suppose that likely helps him climb V14, but it's not the only reason. He's also a workhorse who is a stickler for the details. He's also a father, husband, business owner, and youth coach. Somewhere in there he's found time to be an Armlifting World Champion with numerous world records, as well as a prolific first ascentionist near his home in Ottawa. You can find Yves on Instagram at: https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle You can check out his mask making company at: https://www.instagram.com/metamorphose_masks Some of the tools Yves uses: Saxon Bar: https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/saxon-bar-custom?variant=29697039237233 Wrist Wrench: https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/axle-wrench?variant=16730872774769 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Troy Fauteux tries harder than you. His try hard might have gotten him up hard boulders before the mental skills had a chance to catch up - but I suspect those are coming along just fine. To make the most of this interview go HERE and watch the video of Troy doing The Mandala in Bishop. THEN listen to the episode. Once you're finished, go HERE and watch this video of Troy just two weeks before doing his first V11. Turn up your volume and enjoy. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Not all goals need to be major, far off events. Not all goals need to lead you directly toward those major goals. Sometimes it's perfectly ok - even encouraged - to have a side goal. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The phrase “a force to be reckoned with” doesn’t quite do justice to Dr. Favia Dubyk. Yes, she is a force, but that phrase conjures up images of some stoic, menacing figure, and Favia is the polar opposite of this image. She’s funny, excited, genuine, and unassuming - unless you happen to see her in a tanktop. However, it’s not the biceps that I’m most interested in. It’s the brains and the spirit. In her 3rd year of medical school Favia was diagnosed with late stage Hodgkin’s Lymphoma and given a few weeks to live. A fight that had nothing to do with biceps ensued, and Favia has now been in remission from cancer for several years. Yes, she is a survivor, but again, she defies the word. Thriver seems to be a much better fit. Dr. Dubyk finished her degree and now works at the University of New Mexico as a pathologist, having switched her focus from sports medicine surgery to an area where she could impact other people who had been diagnosed with cancer. As is evident from the biceps - she doesn’t pour all of her time into pathology. She’s competed on American Ninja Warrior and climbs at a high level - preferring hard roof climbing to other styles. We sat down in Hueco Tanks for not nearly enough time to hear the whole story, but plenty to know that Favia is indeed a force. You can find Favia online at www.traversegirl.com You can follow Favia on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/felinefavia Watch the ANW video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oybWgRWsB9g We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

If you have been interested in training for climbing for more than a few days, it’s likely that you know of Dr. Natasha Barnes. She’s not only a former national champion climber and champion power lifter, but is a doctor based in San Francisco who specializes in rehabilitation, orthopedic sports medicine and physiotherapy for climbers and lifters. I’ve known Natasha for some time, and when I booked a workshop in San Francisco, I knew I had to sit down and get her on the show. Hopefully the first of many appearances. In this episode we discuss pain - how we experience and react to it, as well as actionable ways to try and determine if it’s actually an injury - or just your brain convincing you that it is. Pain Science Resources Lorimer Moseley “Why Things Hurt” TEDx Talk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwd-wLdIHjs Tame The Beast https://www.tamethebeast.org/ Curable Health App https://www.curablehealth.com/ Pain is Weird from PainScience.com https://www.painscience.com/articles/pain-is-weird.php Central Sensitization https://www.painscience.com/articles/central-sensitization.php You can find Dr. Barnes online at https://natashabarnesrehab.com/ You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/natashabarnes Check out the all new and updated Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Alex Megos may well be the strongest climber in the world. But is he the best? In this episode I sit down with Megos and his good friend Ken Etzel, the director of the new film that we are discussing, Rotpunkt. Rotpunkt gives us a rare glimpse into the up and down struggles of someone trying to become the best in the world. Maybe not suprisingly, these are struggles that every single one of us can relate to. Possibly even more fascinating is the bond that was forged between filmmaker and athlete, and the pressures that this bond had to endure while making the film. You can find the film at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k You can find Alex Megos on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/alexandermegos You can find Ken Etzel on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/ken_etzel We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

ONE MILLION DOWNLOADS. Thank you for the continued and growing support! It means the world. In this episode, Nate and I sit down to talk about where it all started and why we keep doing it. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.