Surf Splendor

Underexposed multidisciplinary talent Bryce Young joins us to chat about his new film, how Burch’s unique boards broke down perceptions of his own limitations, his father’s sage and surprisingly simple advice, the devastation of losing everything to a fire, and why now is the right time to share decades of archival family footage and story. Enjoy! Intro Music: Jim James, State Of The Art Outro Music: Yusef Lateef, The Plum Blossom Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Polymath Matt George joins us to discuss 35 years of surf writing, why surfing fosters female power and male vulnerability, the dangers of the algorithm eroding surfing's great lessons, narrowly escaping Hollywood, and why emergency relief work has become his life's passion. Enjoy! Intro/Outro Music: Allen Ginsberg and Phillip Glass, Wichita Vortex Sutra Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

22 year old surfboard shaper John Simon discusses the value of starting with a broom, developing his craft under the Trimcraft tutelage, how extreme designs deliver subtle effects, the perils of growing too quickly, and how riding other shapers boards has provided his quickest lessons learned. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The current World Longboard Champ joins us to discuss the ecstasy and obligation that comes with achieving your life's goals, the virtue and burden of being "underrated", the value of defying definition as a professional surfer in 2023, and the futile endeavor of applying a judging criteria to surfing. Enjoy! Into music: Allen Toussaint, Southern Nights Outro music: Calexico, Alone Again Or Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

New Jersey's former grom phenom Shaun Crowley joins us to discuss returning to surfing after a decade hiatus, how to sell it all and relocate your life to Mexico, why you should delete Instagram (but start a YouTube channel), and the freedom and refuge that comes with finding your community. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In Part Two, Jeff Johnson explains how he side-doored his way into becoming Patagonia’s first staff photographer, the toll of being sued by one of his surf idols, and he distills the value of being naive to your own limitations. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Adventurer Jeff Johnson joins us today to explain his path from ne'er-do-well skate teen to world class photographer; from stealing lumber to build skate ramps, to lifeguarding on the North Shore, to traveling the world professionally, Jeff explains how boredom is the key to unlocking your life’s passion. Part 1 of 2. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Apple called him "a pioneer with profound impact". Newsweek said he "changed the public face of graphic design". In 1991 David Carson redesigned Surfer Magazine and established a now iconic graphic design style seated in raw human emotion which led to numerous awards and an expansive client list including Audi, Nike, Obama, and album art for Nine Inch Nails. A lifelong surfer and 2018 inductee into the East Coast Surfing Hall of Fame, Carson discusses the value of failing publicly, the importance of humanity in design, and why it is impossible to not communicate. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Roark founder Ryan Hitzel joins us to discuss how his high-school notebook doodles led to a design job at Volcom, line-up hierarchy etiquette fortified him for the pitfalls of entrepreneurship, and how a forced expedition by his parents mapped the blueprint for his life's work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Andrew Kidman joins us to discuss how his enthusiasm for wave pools inspired his latest film, why he prefers terrible surf, Filipe’s distinct advantage related to his board construction, and the burden and gift of having had a UFO encounter in his youth. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfing World publisher, Surfrider Chairman, Patagonia Head of Editorial, author, Sean Doherty joins us to discuss the stories behind the 60th anniversary issue of Surfing World, his optimism about political regime change in Australian government, the current state of professional surfing, and the fastest he's ever gone on a surfboard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfline's Vice Prez of Product and Innovation joins us to discuss how he went from apathetic student to surf forecast savant, boot-strapping a business from zero to acquisition twice, maintaining a balanced lifestyle through pitfalls and rapid growth, and how the value of knowing every facet of your business translates to hard value. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today's show Chris discusses the unlikely inspiration for his first film, how Yvon Chouinard's friendship has influenced his path, the freedom in knowing when to exit, his next big surf trip, and how hull's have altered his appreciation of surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Professional surfer turned filmmaker Chris Malloy joins us to discuss how a singular lesson from his father became his career missive, the gift he gave back in return, hiring a young Jack Johnson to operate the Bolex for his first film, and how a near career-ending wipeout at Pipe created the space to explore a passion that will become his legacy beyond the surf world. Part Two will be published next week. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dane Gudauskas joins us to discuss how to unlock peak performance in midlife, how riding finless kookboxes has informed his new skate-inspired board design, why a position of gratitude has empowered his self-determination, and the life change that inspired him to leave his surf-centric San Clemente hometown. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Early California surf pioneer Rosemari Reimers Rice joins us to discuss growing up in the hub of surfboard manufacturing in the early 50s, being the first female team rider for Dewey Weber, landing in Santa Cruz in the early 70s, the healing role that Native American spiritualism played in her life, and how her husband's legacy of board building is manifesting through her grandson. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show, Santa Cruz board builder Ward Coffey explains why small is beautiful, how COVID surfers are altering sacred lineups, how his dad’s Silicon Valley job altered surfboard manufacturing, and the outsized return of prioritizing lifestyle over work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In the fringe, burgeoning surf culture along the North Sea coast of Scotland, Jason Burnett has become one of the regions first board builders. For 8 years he was building boards for local surfers and experimenting with the Edge design, assyms, and laminating everything himself in his Edinburgh factory. That was until it all burned down last year. Today he shares his story of rebuilding Jay Surfboards. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Oceanside board builder Kurtis Woodin joins us to outline how he leveraged the COVID boom to build a factory and scale up production while still maintaining the highest quality, the vital importance of taking a full month away from work each year, why investing in customer service will never fail to pay off, and the unlikely overlap between massage therapy and surfboard shaping. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Emmy winning North Shore photographer Mike Prickett joins us to discuss how he'll be chasing major swell events to bring us live streaming free surf sessions from around the globe this year, how new remote controlled tech is allowing him to put cameras in the impact zone of 60' waves, and how two separate near-death accidents spurred the most creative and productive chapters in his career. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

"The Willy Wonka of Torquay", board builder Corey Graham joins us to discuss growing up in a factory with a pioneer board builder as a father, how foam drinks up energy, why a knee injury forced him to redesign his entire shaping philosophy, and how failure leads to freedom. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Troy Eckert joins us to discuss his role is helping build a billion dollar surf brand and the consternation of walking away from it, why self turmoil leads to external turmoil, the importance of saying "no", and how to get the best wave of your life after turning 50. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

On Sunday January 22nd the most prestigious surf event on the planet took place for only the 10th time ever. In historic swell conditions, The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, named after the legendary lifeguard who was lost at sea, hosted 40 big wave specialists, including multiple world champs and the by the end of the day, the winner had amassed two perfect scores and nearly two perfect heats. He, too, is a North Shore lifeguard and he did it all while on duty, in between tourist rescues and bandaging other competitors. This is his story. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jason Baffa returns to discuss 20 years of filmmaking, how character always informs surf style, how his earliest goals remain present in his new series on Disney+ "Chasing Waves", which examines Japanese surfing as it exists in country and worldwide, its origins, and it's increasing influence on greater culture. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Felipe Pomar returns to outline surfing's birthplace in Peru dating back 5000 years, how being of service to your community will help you surf till 100, and about being featured by Pope Francis in a recent Netflix documentary. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices