Surf Splendor

In today’s episode filmmaker Darieus Legg extolls the virtues and perils of being raised on a sailboat, explains how valuing external validation is a zero sum game, recounts why creative expression can buoy depression, and shares how his simply pursuit to tell the story of a used surfboard unraveled his life’s calling. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

We want to gift you a surfboard. Ryan Lynch is here to help. A thought leader in surfboard sustainability, the former Tesla engineer has focused his efforts on eliminating resin from surfboard production and designing high-performance, long lasting surfboards using regenerative construction materials without sacrificing one iota of performance and design, all whilst enhancing the beauty fo the board. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Eden Saul joins us to explain why the mat is the most dynamic surf craft, how he planted Dead Kooks seeds globally for free while gleaning knowledge from the best builders, how increasing production decreased his business growth, and why he’s committed to purchasing other shaper’s surfboards. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In an apple orchard, on an island thirty miles north of Seattle, eight years removed from his last surf is where I found Drew Kampion. Author of six books, countless surf articles, and perhaps the main person responsible for surfing’s mischievous, irreverent presentation, Kampion reflects on his early years at Surfer, analyzes current surf media, and tells about the first time he got John Severson high. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Era defining filmmaker Kai Neville joins us to discuss why the visual style he is known for is not his own, how Bruce Irons is to blame for the best clip he’s ever missed, and how independent film helps foster the most creative and progressive expressions of surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Genre defining pro freesurfer of the 90s, Margo, joins us to discuss ushering pro surfing from cottage to corporate, humility gleaned while working as a baggage handler, how a passion for bird watching led to his greatest work, and what sparked the revival in his surf career at age 50. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfer, writer, board builder, Christian Beamish joins to discuss surf adventuring through the hospices of the Navy, why the Simmons/Curren Keel might unlock new big wave paddle potential, lessons learned adrift on a self-built 27 foot sail boat, and why perspective is hard earned through life experience. Enjoy! Intro Music: Bill Callahan, 747 Outro Music: Bill Callahan, My Friend Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

After a year on the 35’ sailboat “Calypte”, Torren Martyn returns to discuss how his grandmother’s adventures 60 years ago led to this journey, the pitfalls and virtues of learning to sail while at sea, living with snakes onboard, and how the voyage was the perfect preparation for parenthood. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Just a note, during Thanksgiving week here in the US, to express my deepest gratitude for giving me the opportunity to do this work. Happy Thanksgiving! Music: Bonnie Raitt, Thank You Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

After 40 years touring and drumming for one of the biggest punk bands on the planet, Smelly joins us to discuss his transition into surfboard shaping and how the intensity of youth can that ignite a life's journey, the camaraderie of his bandmates helped him kick heroin, showing kindness to one's self amplifies recovery, and why all of his success can be attributed to a single drum beat. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Community activist Eddy Garcia joins us to discuss his efforts to re-house victims of Lahaina’s fires, how developers have already taken advantage of displaced families, the perils of disaster capitalism, the necessity to reduce reliance on tourism, and the inherent virtues of self-sufficiency. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Adroit craftsmen Bill Stewart returns to discuss the elusive paradox of Gordon Clark, the stately humility of Phil Edwards, the effortless earnestness of Jimmy Buffett, and how they each bolstered and buoyed him through his successes and losses over the years. Part of two of two. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jovial raconteur Bill Stewart joins us to weave his tale from barefoot skiing in Kentucky, to fudge-making for Carnies in Michigan, to Shanghai'ing a teen to California in search of surf, to becoming one of surfing's preeminent board builders, along with the fortunes and friends earned and lost along the way. Enjoy this, the first of a two part series. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Era defining pioneer of the shortboard revolution, writer, World Champ, Nat Young joins us to discuss abandoning his animal aggression, reveals his favorite modern shapers, shares stories of Tom Blake & Miki Dora, and illuminates some of his greatest lessons learned and shared in his latest book, “Church Of The Open Sky”. Enjoy! Intro Music: I Know You Rider, The National and Bob Weir Outro Music: I Really Need Love, The Bees Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfing's preeminent historian returns so that David can attempt to write Warshaw's EOS entry. Herein Warshaw recounts the first time being punched in the face, donning Edward Norton's wetsuit, analyzes which prejudice is unjustly credited to surf history, and explains how a recent life altering diagnosis changed his perspective on this relationship with surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Honoree of this weekend's Icons of Foam Tribute, Bing Copeland started Bing Surfboards in 1959. After sharing his first wave with Greg Noll and under the tutelage of Dale Velzy, Bing became one of the largest board builders of the 60s. In today’s episode Bing discusses his origin story, the value of delegation, transitioning the Bing legacy, and the incident that caused him to quitting surfing. Enjoy! (Link to Episode 190 with Matt Calvani) Intro Music: Bob Dylan, Mississippi Segue Music: Bob Callahan, 747 Outro Music: Glen Campbell, Sweet Fantasy Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

2x Icons of Foam winner Roger Hinds joins us again to discuss how moving out at age 14 cultivated the work ethic to yield 50 years of board building, the virtues of taking advice from people with less experience, the paradise and peril of Hawaii in the early 70s, and why you should be riding an 8' shortboard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Marine Biologist, freediver, surfer, Brinkley Davies joins us to discuss harnessing the power of social media to activate people's compassion for animals, why the benefits inherent in freediving help guide her environmental charity work, how a fateful incident with a kangaroo led to her mothering a joey, and how to mitigate burnout by not surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Pro surfer, second generation board builder, Greenough acolyte and EPS advocate, Ellis Ericson joins us to discuss the inherent limitations of molded surfboard blanks, feeling foreign in his hometown of Byron, how distancing daily life from technology has propelled his greatest strides forward, and how to induce zen through the hum of a planer. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Maui's Joshua Weisfeld shares the harrowing story of losing his home and factory while narrowly escaping the fires, gives insight into the rich board building community that existed in Lahaina, surveys the diaspora, and attempts to develop a blueprint for steps towards rebuilding. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Handmade, custom tailored, wetsuit designer Shane Jones joins us to discuss how youthful angst can be a catalyst to pursue your passion, why experiencing adversity should stimulate motivation, how it's never too late to radically redesign your life, and how he collected 8,000 square feet of goods for Lahaina's families in need. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Billy is back to discuss the difficulties of raising Laird, discovering Nazare, the benefits of psychedelics, and how his relationship with John Milius ended with a punch and a transfer of one millions dollars. Enjoy! (Originally published May 27, 2020) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Billy Hamilton joins us to discuss growing up in Laguna before the ocean was poisoned by detergents from civilization’s expansion, his early travels in Kauai in the 60’s, meeting Laird and his mother on the beach at Rocky Point, surfing Pipeline naked, and living (partying) with Bunker Spreckles when he inherited $100 million dollars. Part One of Two. Enjoy! (Originally aired May 2020). Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Outer Banks' finest Vlogger joins us to discuss how he entered the surf world's awareness with a 10 at Pipe, how growing up alongside YouTube primed him for the rigors of selfie stardom, the exact workload and ROI of producing weekly content, early pioneering trips to Skeleton Bay, and how leaving a decade-long relationship with a shaper has expanded his awareness of his own surfing ability. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

2x Big Wave World Champ Paige Alms joins us to discuss the gift of her mother’s wanderlust, how restaurant work financed her surf career, the Jaws incident that necessitated a jet ski purchase, and the virtues of returning to a hunter-gather lifestyle. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices