Surf Splendor

In today’s show inventive surfboard shaper Bill “Stretch” Riedel five decades of keystone moments in design revolution, breaking his neck and becoming patient one for a radical life saving procedure, how success can bankrupt a business, and why nostalgia and ego are the antithesis of progression. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode filmmaker Nathan Oldfield shares why he doesn’t watch his own films, how staying attuned to one’s self requires active work, why melancholy is fuel, silliness is sacred, and how connecting to personal grief has deepened his work as a high-school teacher. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show shaper and college professor Gary Larson reveals who he believes is the greatest shaper of all time, the design feature that defines a great surfboard, how looking back provides direction for innovation, and discusses the weight of stewarding a 75 year shaping legacy. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Snapt filmmaker Logan Dulien shares the details of how he spearheaded the effort to take down the crime syndicate who was targeting SoCal surfers, reveals the wild earnings from his heyday as a tour manager, and discusses the importance of curating a surf film in the modern era of immediacy. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Conde Nast’s former visual editor shares how an early experience caddying for Lisa Anderson sparked a career change, a passion to share the transformative experience of surfing with non-surfers, lessons gleaned from twelve writers about twelve iconic surfers, and how time spent in the ocean might be key to whole body restoration. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Rusty shares the flashpoints in his career that defined this shaping. Taylor Knox reveals Rusty’s role in his interest in surfing and later in his wild success on the rail. And Jojo Roper recounts his history run from Peahi, to The Eddie, to Maverick’s and how none of it would have been possible with Rusty. Live from The Belly Up, it’s Talk Story with Rusty and his tribe. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Kolohe Andino chats about the weight of expectation, why satisfaction can threaten ambition, how having children highlights the absurdity of professional surf pursuits, his idea for a restructured Tour, and why groms will always be the fertile core of surfing’s soul. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show, the 23 year old who just rode a potential record-breaker at Maverick's talks us through the wave itself, the prep, the media maelstrom that followed, the unique board that Stretch built for him, how 100’ surf is only accessible via a team of people, and why he didn’t celebrate the historic ride. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode is hosted by Brad Gerlach with Occy as a guest! Recorded at Niyama Resort in the Maldives, Brad and Occy analyze Occy’s technique to provide basic truths about head and hand placement and body positioning to unlock your next level of surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show San Diego’s surfboard and surfwear icon Rusty joins us to explain how his MIT mathematician father’s missive to follow his passion led him to art school and then to surfboards, learning how to push past moments of self-doubt, the secret unlock to Occy’s ’84 Thruster, the perils of licensing deals, and why some of the best design developments come from mistakes. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show surfing’s foremost historian reveals the pro surfer who saved his life at age 12, the gift of finding 50 year old surf footage from his youth, the unsung heroes lost to surf history, how history is shaped by those who elect to share it, and why is more important than ever to cement archiving surf history. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Holly Beck recounts her rapid rise into professional surfing and disillusionment, becoming an inadvertent model, expatriate freedoms, the fallacy of reality TV, and the holistic healing inherent to surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Pipeline aficionado Liam McNamara joins us to discuss how growing up in a commune on welfare informed his approach to surfing on the North Shore, the single financial decision that salvaged his career earnings, how shepherding Hawaii’s youth rectifies past misdeeds, and why his last session at Pipe was nearly his last day on earth. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show we hear from Jersey board builder Brian Wynn about how he built a career on doing what no else wanted to do, the fastest way to expedite one’s learning curve, why staying small is recession safe, and how ice hockey staves off burn-out. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show our current and 2x longboard champ joins us to discuss how achieving a life goal can dilute future ambition, why pro longboarders net negative $ on Tour, the WSL’s reason for not acknowledging her as their youngest ever world champ, the ongoing influence of Terry Martin, and how she co-founded a women surf news media outlet. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show double-board certified M.D. Paul Saladino joins David and Brad Gerlach to discuss how to reverse chronic illness through diet, why plants are bad to eat, our culture’s obsession with optimizing performance, and how surfing has redirected his lifestyle choices. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show, world-renown photographer Chris Burkard explains that earning access to opportunity taught him the value of saying “no”, how a surf trip to Iceland inspired him relocate his family, why three days of darkness helped him unbury his core truth, and why his best work is still created in the ocean. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Richie charts the rise and fall of Wave Tools, why shaping his own boards hindered his title hopes, how a radical lesson in humility transformed his worldview, why he never understood the concept of “soul” surfer until he quit surfing, his regrets attempting to raise a professional surf daughter, and why his next chapter will be focused on attempting to feel joy. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Polarizing professional surf icon of the 80s/90s, Richie Collins, reflects on the benefits and consequence of being raised by a local enforcer, learning to live up to the family reputation and then taking it too far, the inescapable dread of regret, why he doesn’t surf anymore, and the deep value of knowing one’s family history. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surf biz stalwart and magnate Eric Crane explains the virtue of starting at the bottom, reflects on the dangers of never saying “no”, give thanks for almost losing everything, attempts to integrate family life with blind professional ambition, and discovers why being a balanced human makes him a more competent CEO. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today Dick Metz details his friendship with Rabbit Kekai, explains how his real estate empire was built from one vacant lot in Aspen, why buying back the Hobie stores (four times) was more profitable than selling them, and how archiving surf history through surfboards has become his life’s greatest work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Metz is back! Today he tells us about selling his surf shop to Gerry Lopez to launch the Hobie Cat, venturing into the surf wear biz where the female customer unlocks an empire, and he learns valuable lessons in prudence and how to time an exit. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

English professor/shaper Charles Mencel joins us to edify on the Jersey beach badge, help illuminate the Shore’s deep history beyond the stereotypes, herald their music culture’s influence on surfing, and chart the travails of scaling a local board building business while raising five daughters and educating America's young adults. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show filmmaker Jason Baffa explains the unexpected perils of getting your dream job, the importance of finding your niche within a niche, how collaboration is a pathway to success, and why the future of surf films is a live viewing experience. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Quietly and immeasurably influencing the surf world, Jon Roseman's stewardship of Cloudbreak has been cosigned by Fijian tribal leaders and pro surfers alike. Today he shares stories from 30 years of swells, why his best surfing is still ahead of him, and how he hopes to convert his experiences and a newly earned MBA from Yale into sustainable success for Tavarua's future. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Dave Nelson reflects on the gift that was skating while growing up in the epicenter of tech, how one early gift from mom would dictate his life’s passion, the magic of living on Reunion Island in the early 90s, and how surf photography led him from darkness and allowed him to service something far greater than his own pursuits. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices