Woodshop Life Podcast

Guys Questions: I am going to be adding a 25/50 drum sander to my shop. I can’t afford a powermatic so it is between the Jet and Laguna Supermax. I went to AWFS this past year to see them in person and Jet was not at the show and Laguna only brought their large tools. I called one of the nationwide woodworking stores that sells both brands and asked the employee which he thought was better and his response was “ they are both great tools, but if you have a problem with either one of them Jet will take care of the problem immediately, and Laguna will eventually take care of it but it will take a while”. Laguna also charges a $199 shipping fee where as Jet does not. I would appreciate any advice on which one you would recommend. I always look forward to listening to the podcast. Keep up the great work gentlemen! Tom Hello Fellas On my third round of listening to all your episodes. Thanks for all you contribute to the community. I am getting ready to move my shop from the garage to the basement. I want to keep the dust down to a minimum. I was looking at getting a Grizzly T10113 - Universal Overarm Blade Guard for Table Saws. Have you used or this or something similar. It is very pricey do you think it's worth the money. If not do you have any alternatives. Thank you and keep up the good work Korey Griffin, Independence KY When is a drawer too wide, specifically for under mount slides? I keep seeing these huge kitchen drawers that look to be almost 36-48" wide. How do they account for the large amount of weight that could potential be in these drawers. Do you guys have any experience using the blum tandem stabilization bars? They state they can be used up to 53" but that seems widely wide. How would you go about building drawers that are over 36" wide? Jesse Huys Question: Hi Woodshop Life Podcast Team, Thanks for all the great content—new woodworker here (not a cheap hobby by any means and I mostly blame you guys for this), I went in deep with about 50K in tools but so worth it as I love the idea of building things for people that they will have when I'm gone. I'm a Power Engineer by trade, and I learn a ton from the podcast. Quick question: I’m in Sylvan Lake, Alberta (-40C to +35C weather) and store a decent hardwood stockpile (Walnut, Wenge, Maple/Figured Maple, Zebrawood, Rose Woods—kiln-dried from a reputable Calgary seller) in a 14’ x 10’ room in the back of my heated oversized 3-car garage. Winter RH is usually ~22–25% and summer can swing much higher. I could add a small humidifier in the storage room but that's about it. Storage room has air flow, in floor heat and wood is sitting off the concrete stored vertical on ends. Whole home humidity control is hard to achieve in Alberta without creating a lot of condensation on the windows in winter months which is not good. So we just except the cracked bleeding skin during the winter months. Would you leave it alone and accept seasonal humidity movement, or try to hold the storage room around ~35% RH? If you would control it, what’s a practical target range? Part B - Is cutting wood stored at 22% RH a good idea - I assume it will swell so much in the summer months and assume 22% is way to low to store wood long term over a couple years. Thanks for the wicked podcast - I'd love to come on, I'd have so many questions during each show. Thanks! Trenton (Sylvan Lake, AB I started a stripping project of my redwood door. It’s old old old! So I am trying to be thoughtful of the contours and the soft wood. I need some guidance since the paint is fighting me and Ive kind of hit a wall. Ian I have another closet door that my kids have forcebly pulled the screws from the hinge. Not sure how to approach fixing the holes for screws other than cutting a chunk out of the door and glueing and sanding a new piece in. Any thoughts would be helpful. Ian

Brians Questions: My sister and brother-in-law would like to recruit/hire me to install/build built-in bank of drawers and shelves for them for their new home. The only relatable experience I have with this type of woodworking is building a face frame cabinet and constructing some under the bed drawer storage, each of which I have done exactly one time. The remainder of my woodworking experience has involved making small knick-knacks such as cutting boards, boxes, etc. Considering your experience with built-in shelving and closets, I was hoping you could lend me your expertise in regards to the following questions: 1. What's the easiest way to go about coming up with accurate calculations for the amount of materials I'll need? I might need a very dumbed down explanation. 2. How do you price projects like this? Do you estimate the time it will take and give the customer a set price, or do you use a time + materials structure? I want to help my sister do this for significantly less than she would pay someone else, but I also don't want to be committing an undetermined amount of my time for free. Thanks in advance for all your help. Zach Owens I have a question about Sawstops and the brake cartridge. I recently tripped my brake last night after changing from a Forest Woodworker blade to a Diable blade. Not sure why it happened. They are both 10" blades. Any suggestions for how to prevent this from happening in the future? Mark Guys Questions: I've had this question in my mind for a few months now. How do I know when I'm qualified and ready to teach others how to woodwork? For context, I am a teacher by trade, and have only been woodworking for about 2 and a half years. I am single and have no family, so I do have a lot of time to myself. I primarily use hand tools though I occasionally break out my track saw for sheet goods. I don't have any experience with power tools like a table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer. My dovetails range from "functional-but-ugly" to "decent", I can chop out mortises with chisels, I can joint my edges with my hand plane, and I can get my surfaces to be "flat enough". With all that said, is there a point where you know you can effectively teach others how to woodwork? Down the line, I wouldn't mind being able to teach some hand tool woodworking classes. I do want to hold myself to a high standard and to be able to teach everyone proper technique without seriously hurting themselves. Thanks in advance for your input, Jose 1. Over the past a couple years I have gotten spoiled by building with a bunch of rift sawn white oak veneer, large slabs of walnut where I can cut parts out as I see fit. Now I can't go back to flat sawn boards!! All I see is the glue line, cathedrals that don't match, or kinda do and just a jumble of boards that just kinda go together. Am I doomed to only hunt for the straightest best grain board? How do you guys incorporate flat sawn (cathedrals) and other wildly grain boards into your work? Or are you only trying to select straight grain for table tops, and use flat sawn stuff for lesser seen parts? Jesse Huys Questions: My question is about moving my shop. My wife and I are moving from California to Washington - about 800 miles north of us. I'm going to upgrade from a 1 car garage shop to probably twice the space. We're going to hire professional movers but I'm wondering how to prepare and ship certain machines. The ones I think most about are the Sawstop, the Festool Kapex 120, the DeWalt 735 planer, and my Laguna 14" bandsaw also with wheels. The Sawstop has an extension table. Would you remove that or let the professional movers move the fully assembled saw? I would remove the blade and cartridge. How about the Kapex, planer, and Laguna bandsaw? Any special precautions or recommendations there? For my planes and handsaws am thinking lots of bubble wrap and packed into boxes. Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks for the great show guys! Ron Novato, CA Hi guys, I am relatively new to the podcast so maybe it has been talked about before, but I had a question about Maloof inspired rocking chairs. Have any of you attempted making a chair with a Maloof inspired design? If so, did you use/purchase a pattern and do you have any recommendations? I have found several patterns out there, but some of them are a bit pricey and I don’t want to commit to a specific pattern without doing my research. I consider myself an intermediate woodworker and this would by far be the most difficult project I have attempted so any advise is appreciated. Zach

Brians Questions: ​Hello gentlemen, ​I love your podcast. I appreciate the care and detail you put into maintaining a consistent format and clean, listenable audio. Having been a radio production director in a former career, I loathe most podcast audio, so your effort to provide a professional listening experience is apparent. ​In my brief time as a woodworker, I’ve found it difficult to source hardwood. I don't have any woodworking stores nearby—the closest is several hours away. Buying from private parties feels unreliable, and I strongly prefer kiln-dried wood. Furthermore, online ordering is expensive, even for small stock. ​So far, the only hardwood I’ve been able to work with was purchased from big-box stores or salvaged from pallets. ​Do you have any advice for sourcing hardwood in my Southern California area? ​Thank you! ​Todd from Barking Beavers I’m curious your take on shop lighting. I’ve got 12’ ceilings in my garage and I’m on thinking the lights could be far away. Maybe I should focus on task lighting instead or possibly lowering lights on chain but that is a less appealing option. Tyler -What are your best strategies on negotiating time with the wife to be in the shop? Brian Guys Questions: I’ve been listening to your podcast on and off for a couple years now. I know I haven’t listened to all the episodes but I’m trying to work my way through them on my commute to work. I appreciate the podcast, I’ve learned a lot. Thanks for doing it guys! I’m a weekend warrior, with an old craftsman contractor saw. Well maybe not that old, 20 years. Not old enough to be really sturdy built but it’s been a good saw. I would like to upgrade to a cabinet saw. I’m interested in getting a Sawstop for the safety aspect as well as I’ve heard they are well built saws. One convenient feature on my Craftsman saw is it has a built in router table on the table saw wing. I can get the same setup on the Sawstop. I’m not a professional wood worker but I do want a good quality table saw and router table set up. My questions are: 1) Will the Sawstop be a substantial upgrade to my Craftsman contractor saw or should I consider another brand? 2) Do you know anything about the Sawstop router table accessories such as the router lift and downdraft box. Are they good quality components, anything I should be cautious about. 3) What are the pros and cons to having the router table built into the table saw versus a stand alone router table? Would I be better off getting a stand alone router table? Thanks for the help! Appreciate the Podcast! Marty I recently purchased a shaper and power feeder to run mostly door profiles and other trim as well. It's been a huge upgrade from the router table, but I still get tear out if I try to mill for example a shaker style door in one pass (the long edge not the coping cut). I've seen videos of other guys running their shaper in reverse and cutting for profiles with a climb cut but ONLY WITH A POWER FEEDER. Would this be a case where you would be comfortable breaking the "never climb cut" rule if you had a power feeder in order to produce a cleaner edge? Thanks! Jared I would like to begin my first foray into veneering. I’m thinking a small table top for a side table or nightstand would be a good first project. How would you suggest a first time veneerer approach this—I don’t want to invest a lot into veneer specific tools (vacuum bags, etc), so any tips for using stuff already laying around the shop would be appreciated. Thanks for the great pod! Andrew

Brians Questions: I currently have a Sawstop PCS 1.75, an 8” Laguna spiral head jointer, a Jet two-stage dust collector, a Laguna 1412 bandsaw, a Bosch cabinet style router table, a Dewalt DW734 lunchbox planer, an entry-level CNC, a Festool ETS125, a Festool dust extractor and various smaller power tools. I’m not particularly happy with the stability, adjustability and fence on my Bosch router table and I feel like my planer isn’t giving my a consistent cut across its width. I’m thinking of upgrading either the router table to something with an Incra lift, or maybe a planer like the DW735 with helical head or similar. However, I’ve also been seriously considering a Festool Domino DF500. Lately I’ve been working on decorative boxes and small furniture like side tables and coffee tables. Who knows what’s next? What would you purchase next and what do you think would make the biggest difference in my woodworking? Thanks, Kevin Westbrooks Hey this is Brooks from BROOKS BOARDS in Utah, I really enjoy the podcast while I work on the shop, and a lot of my questions get answered, but I was hope maybe you could help me understand the best way to round over a board that is a curved shape like my longboards I make, when I use a bearing router bit the issue is that when you flip the board to route the other side where the bearing would ride along the wood it routed off so the roundover is un-even and usually a line is left over, would you guys have a potential solution to this? I would love your suggestion, thanks in advance you guys are awesome. Brooks Guys Questions: When making flat panel drawer fronts I keep running into drawer fronts that need to be just a little bigger than my 8" jointer. Say 9-10" tall. Most of the rough stock I buy is 8-8.5". In this case I have two options, use two boards of similar grain and try to hide the glue joint which becomes a straight grain only situation. Or make a veneer drawer front with some wider stock if i can find it. How do all these European cabinet makers do it with large flat drawer fronts. Do they all just have a 12-16" jointers? Jesse Hi y’all! I’m Chris. I love your podcast and listen to it while I drive for work. I am on my second round of listening while I wait for the new episode to drop! I will be proposing to my fiance soon and I am making a ring box for her engagement ring. I am going to use White Oak and I have seen several videos of guys using a rub on finish that slightly darkens the wood and leaves a minimal sheen. I am wondering what finish you would use for durability, to darken the wood, and leave no sheen! Thanks and love the show! Chris Huys Questions: I have a Makita Track Saw which I purchased a couple of years ago. I use it only for cutting full sheets of plywood and melamine, mostly plywood. Although I haven't used it all that much the Makita brand saw blade is not making clean cuts and leaving burn marks on the sheet goods. It's a 48 tooth blade measuring 165mm x 20mm. I cleaned the blade hoping that would solve the issue but it hasn't. The cut quality is the same. I've considered sending the blade out for sharpening but not sure if it's worth it. I'm thinking my money might be better spent buying a new blade. I could always buy a new blade and have the Makita blade resharpened and use it only for cutting melamine. I'm sure track saw blades are not all made equal so I'm looking for your recommendation for a new blade based on your knowledge and experience. I'm interested in saw blade brands as well as the type of blade such as the number of teeth for making clean cuts in plywood. Looking forward to your comments and thanks for hosting such an informative podcast. Jack Francis Hey guys, I’m a long time listener and continue to learn with every episode. You’re one of only two podcasts I listen to cause there’s no stupidness and you just talk woodworking and don’t feel the need to waste the listeners time talking about what you had for lunch or whatever other personal garbage every other woodworking podcast seems to delve into. I have a very simple question. Last week I was routing a dado in some oak with a quarter inch straight bit. Nothing unusual about the setup and nothing I hadn’t done a hundred times before. This time, however, the bit managed to come loose from the collet and came up through the work piece and essentially ruined it. Has this happened to you guys? Should I assume that I just didn’t tighten it enough? Should I be constantly checking it as I’m batching parts? This one bugged me cause I don’t feel like I know how to prevent it in the future. Any advice would be appreciated! Bill

Brians Questions: How do I take my woodworking skills to the next level, short of attending an expensive workshop? Up to this point most of what I've learned has been from either your podcast or YouTube videos (special thanks to Guy for all of his router table videos.) I have quite a few small projects under my belt, such as cutting boards, boxes, and a face frame cabinet. I'd like to move on to building small furniture pieces, but I don't feel that I have the skills to figure out how to design or build something of that scale without some sort of tutorial. I'm sure there are tons of videos on YouTube showing how to build coffee tables and the like, but I don't want to just copy and replicate someone else's design. Most of the videos I've come across have also been using pocket holes and big box store lumber, which isn't really the direction I want to go. What I want to learn are the skills and techniques that go into building furniture so that I can put my own spin on them. If I tried to build a coffee table right now I'm sure it would just be a flat panel with square straight legs. Thank you in advance for whatever suggestions and insights you are able to offer me. I appreciate all the time and effort you guys put into this show. I hope your projects are going well, and I hope that you're doing even better.. Zach Owens Throughout your time woodworking, have you ever hit a point where you lost your motivation for woodworking? If so, how did you reignite your passion and get back into it? Zach Owens Guys Questions: I appreciate the podcast and look forward to new episodes, keep up the great work. Here is the background: I have attached a picture of the front of my workshop. I have the Tablesaw/planer and jointer in a square with a poweratic 1 3/4 hp single stage dust collector with "turbo cone" separator:) servicing all three using a 10 foot flexible hose with magnetic couplers on the flexible hose and at individual machine ports. This makes aligning dust collection very quick. I am very satisfied with performance at planer and jointer. I still wear an apron and safety glasses when using the tablesaw because of the dust coming off the top of the blade. I have sealed the cabinet of the saw as much as possible. I have used an over blade collector by shark guard which captures most if not all of this dust, however, I remove this most of the time because it interferes with so many operations. Here is the question: Do you belive there would be a noticable improvement in dust collection,at the tablesaw in particular, by upgrading the dust collector to a product like an Oneida Dust Gorilla or Supercell? I would still like to use the flexible hoses vs. hard piping to support being able to reconfigure the shop in future. Every piece of equipment is readily movable. Thanks, keep up the great podcast. Dave@ Xcuse4tools Custom Woodwork I’m a hobbyist furniture maker working in a home shop. I have several kiln-dried ash boards that have visible insect tracks and wormholes — no active infestation, just the character left behind. I’m building a benchtop seat from this material and I want to lean into that look instead of hiding it. What finishing approach would you recommend to best highlight and preserve the insect damage — things like filling the voids, stabilizing the soft areas, and choosing a topcoat — so it looks intentional and high-end rather than defective? Thank you again for the content. Catching up on old shows though I cannot locate the older shows on Spotify! Have a great week. Greg Wolf's Den Homestead Huys Questions: Hi guys, My house came with a work bench when I bought it. It's nice and sturdy but the Masonite top had seen better days so I'm replacing it with a piece of 3/4" plywood. I just took the top off, and realized that the structure underneath the top isn't totally flat, up to about a 1/8 inch dip in some places. (picture below for reference -- it's about this uneven for the full length). I have a couple of questions: 1) How flat does this need to be? Will the plywood on top make these gaps irrelevant? I understand that a very flat top is important for assembly purposes, although I didn't really notice a problem with the old top. 2) How would you go about flattening this? I have taken down a couple of high spots with my #4 bench plane, but doing the whole table would be quite an undertaking. 3) My plan is to nail the new top on, router the edges flush, and add a coat or two of Danish oil since I have a jug of that lying around. But I'm curious if any of you would do differently. Do any of you use benches with replaceable tops? Thanks! Max My question is this. I own a high end furniture and cabinet shop and to provide quality I prefer to build my drawer boxes from solid wood (not the bottoms those are plywood). I box joint the corner joints, but my question is on wood expansion. 1st - when milling the sides to 5/8 thickness I sometimes end up with a 5" wide board. Usually this would cause cupping b

Brian's Questions: Gentlemen, I thoroughly enjoy your podcast, so thank you for all that you do. What is you opinion on dog holes in the workbench? If you use them, how? Include favorite accessories. Thank you again. Josh What is the best way to accurately put dog holes in your workbench without buying a $300 one time template tool? Josh Guy's Questions: Hi guys, Thanks for the awesome podcast, I learn new things with every show and for that I am so appreciative! I’m in the early stages of designing/building a dining table made from quarter sawn ash (just purchased a bunch of 4/4 lumber). I’ve designed the table based on a picture my wife showed me for inspiration. It is a trestle style table in which the two uprights are 16” wide by 4” thick. The ‘feet’ or ‘bases’ will be 30” wide by 6” thick, while the ‘trestle tops’ which support the table top will be 34” wide by 6” thick. The thickness of these trestles concerns me both in how much they are going to weigh, and how much material they are going to require. I’ve read about the strength of lock miter joints and am intrigued by the idea of glueing up a panel and essentially creating a hollow ‘box’ for the upright portion (boards would run vertically). I’ve read that these types of joints are very strong and I imagine they would be sufficient for this application (correct me if I’m wrong). I also like that they may give the appearance of using ultra thick 4” lumber. My question is whether you believe there will be enough wood movement in these hollow uprights to cause concern, as they will be constrained by both the feet and tops of the trestles? I just don’t have enough anecdotal experience to have a good feel for how much movement is likely to occur. Are there any good “rule of thumbs” regarding how much movement is expected to occur? I know there are a million variable (humidity swing, plain sawn vs quarter sawn, species, etc.) Thanks for your consideration and response to my question! Evan Hi, I recently upgraded my benchtop planer from a straight-knife Ridgid model to an Oliver 10045 with a helical head. I was excited by all the reviews raving about the ultra-smooth finish, but I've been disappointed. I'm getting noticeable scalloping from the inserts, even after removing them all, thoroughly cleaning the inserts and seats, and properly re-torquing them with a torque wrench. It's still requiring way more sanding: starting with 80 grit (which takes forever to remove the scallops), then 120 grit (longer than with my old planer), before progressing normally. My old straight-knife Ridgid needed far less sanding overall. From my research, this scalloping seems pretty normal with standard helical heads. I've heard one temporary workaround is to run boards through 2-3 extra passes at the final thickness setting, offsetting or skewing the board slightly each time to better overlap the cutter paths and reduce the scalloping (making sanding easier). I plan to try that soon. I was saving for Grizzly helical-head jointer and planer upgrades, but now I'm worried about the same increased sanding time. A few questions: Is noticeable scalloping typical with most helical-head planers, including Grizzly and Oliver models? I've read that the Silent-Power spiral cutterblock on the Hammer A3 series produces a much smoother surface with minimal ripple or scalloping, requiring far less sanding than standard helical heads. Is that your experience? I'm now leaning toward a Hammer A3-31 combo machine down the road. I wanted separate jointer and planer for better workflow and time savings, but I can't deal with doubling my sanding time. For those with 12" combo machines like the A3-31, do you ever regret not going for a 16" model (e.g., A3-41) for the extra width capacity? Thanks for any insights. You guys are my go-to for real-world tool advice! Jeffery Hiughes Huy's Questions: Gentlemen, First let me say how much I appreciate your podcast for it's practical woodworking advice. I have a comment and question. The comment is in response to the podcast of yours that I listened to today regarding the future of reclaimed wood. I wonder if the future will include recycled wood products designed with the look, feel, and workability (or close) of natural wood? Just a thought. Anyway, here is my question: My workshop is an unheated 3rd bay of a garage. It is not insulated. I use a shop vac in conjunction with Home Depots dustopper for dust collection. Better than nothing but not perfect. The cold is a deterrent to want to work out there and am wondering about safe budget conscious heating options. What are the safety considerations to take into account (dust, fumes, other?) I have a Mr. Buddy Propane Heater that has some nice safety features but don't know if it's safe to use. Do you have any recommendations on how to safely heat up a workspace? Thank you. James Aydelotte (aid-a-lot) Hello great podcasters, and fine woodworkers. :-) I am looking to replace the "Deluxe" fence on my 18" Jet

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Since my work typically uses traditional joinery, I cut a lot of tenons. I’ve tried all kinds of methods, but I am really looking for that one method that works for all size boards (cutting bedrail tenons on the table saw isn’t going to happen) and is quick to setup – something that corresponds to the ease and simplicity of cutting mortises using my floor standing mortiser: using your layout lines on the workpiece, you walk up to the machine and start cutting. Easy. For that reason, I really gravitate to the idea of using a radial arm saw with a dado stack for tenons. Norm makes it look so simple: with layout lines already on the board, simply set it against the fence and set your depth of cut, and zip zip, flip, zip, and done (insert Guy’s sound effects for simple operations here). No clamps (unless it’s a small piece), no moving long unwieldy parts across a table, no complicated jigs. And best of all, you see the layout line while you make the cut – it’s not upside down as in a table saw or router table. It looks so simple, and easily a one-size fits all if you have the floorspace for a dedicated machine. But I know radial arm saws have fallen out of favor. I hear about the danger of the saw “walking” toward the operator (can’t you just stand to the side? It can only go so far, right?), and perhaps even more vexing, they are really only available used – and I don’t have time to tinker with vintage machines, as fun as that’d be in retirement one day. I’ve heard that the ubiquitous Craftsman machines on FB Marketplace and Craigslist have a lot of deflection and the bearings and tracks the saw rides in usually didn’t wear well with age, and that the real old DeWalt’s are the best. But again, I’m hesitant to buy something that old without having the time or knowledge to refurbish it. But maybe a week unpaid to refurbish one is worth the long-term labor savings I’d get? An alternative I’ve imagined is a router fixture (possibly even as a stand-alone table), where the router rides along a fixed fence and atop a flat reference surface, and where the workpiece is placed under that surface. Using the same router, bit and fence setup every time, I’d have reference marks on the fixture that help align the workpiece’s layout marks for consistent results. I’d walk up, insert the workpiece, align it and clamp it, set my router depth and route the shoulder of one face and then the edge facing me (yes, the router has to be held horizontal for this edge), and then route the additional meat left at the end of the tenon (if any) - then pull the piece out, flip it, align it, readjust depth if needed and route the other face and edge. The idea is to mimic the action and simplicity of the radial arm saw as close as possible, where the cutting tool is what moves rather than the workpiece, and the workpiece is quickly and easily aligned using its layout marks without complicated one-off jigs. My questions: Is using a radial arm saw for this task as wonderful as it looks? Is it worth the time likely needed to get one reliably working? Given the safety concerns I hear, as well as the commitment required of an old machine, which of the two alternatives above would you go with? Again, with the amount of tenons but of varying kind I do, I want something easy and simple and consistent from project to project – just walk up to the machine and, referencing layout marks on the piece, start cutting. Thanks! Michael Do you guys use anything in your shop that is not intended or marketed for wood workers? Right now my favorite is a fabric cutting mat, i used it once to measure the angle and length of a step stool and it has lived on my MFT ever since, it covers the holes nicely and it’s pretty satisfying bringing small pieces of wood to the mat to confirm measurements. Thanks you for a great show, Heywood Guys Questions: I have been driving more than usual for work and find myself listening to several episodes throughout the day. Thank you all for making my abnormal seat time enjoyable! I am contemplating purchasing a sliding table for my Harvey Cabinet saw, specifically the Harvey Compass ST-1500. Do any of you have any experience or insight with these types of "add-on's" versus a dedicated machine? Would this be a valuable tool for breaking down sheet goods to final dimensions instead of a track saw? I have used a track-saw in the past and do see how valuable it is, but for my situation, I would prefer to manuver large sheets through the table saw. Thank you, Nick Halverson Hi guys I have listened to all your podcasts and thank you for all the great material. I have a couple of questions about a walnut desk I am making for my wife. I was wondering what is a good wood choice for the drawer sides? And can I use that wood on all four sides with dovetails and then glue a piece of walnut on the front so it appears as a half blind dovetail and if so how thick can that front piece of walnut be? Thank you

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Have been listening to your podcast for awhile now and the more I listen to more questions come to mind. Here is my current one for a walnut waterfall bench I’m working on. The dimensions are approx 58”L x 18”W x 16”D. How should I join a shelf to this bench where the grain flows continuously from the legs up through the bench top? The shelf will also be a glued up panel with the grain running the same direction as the bench top. If I attach the shelf to the inside faces of the legs using a mortise and tenon joint, do I need to account for wood movement? The legs, benchtop, and shelf are all 1.75” thick. I would assume that given they’re all the same thickness and technically the wood grain is in the same direction as the legs, just perpendicular, it would expand and contract together, and I could just glue the tenon. That said I don’t want to guess and hearing Guy talk about furniture exploding has me concerned. If wood movement is a concern then what’s the correct way to account for this movement? Should it be treated like a breadboard end with dowels through the tenons, installed through the bottom of the legs (the shelf sits 2 inches off the ground)? Or would it be better, and stronger, to use floating tenons/Dominos for this joint instead and just not glue the outside dominos and cut them loose to account for the expansion and contraction while gluing the center domino(s)? Thanks, Chayse Bell Thanks for the great podcast, I discovered your channel about a month ago and now listen all the time traveling to and from work. I've been woodworking a little over a year now and currently working on a dining table made from ash and have picked up all sorts of pearls that have helped with the glue up, apron design, finishing, etc., so thank you for all that. This question is directed to Brian, as he has mentioned that his shop is in his basement. I currently work out of my two car garage that I share with my wife's car. We just built the house in 2024 and I'm kicking myself that I didn't insulate the garage. These cold Northern Indiana days are making working in the garage pretty uncomfortable. I know I could just insulate it, but HVAC isn't attached to the garage either so to make it truly comfortable would be a big job/cost. So, Brian, can you share a little more about the layout/design of your basement shop? E.g. was it a room that existed that you converted into the shop or you framed the room specifically for a shop? How do you take extra precautions to make sure your family isn't affected by dust, as this is my primary concern. Obviously, I know of dust collection and dust filters, but it still concerns me to think I'd be working in the basement. Do you have anything you wish you did differently? We have an unfinished basement that is very open, so the sky would be the limit for me in the future before we finish it. Thanks, Evan Guys Questions: Somewhat recently I made a gift for my wife using White oak. I had predetermined that for a finishing schedule I wanted to first apply Danish oil, then seal it with shellac, and minwax performance series varnish for a top coat. I ran into an issue when I began to finish the piece. Not knowing a thing about wood porosity, I liberally applied watco Danish oil, and as a result I had a big problem with seepage. Now, my research had cautioned me that I would need to keep checking on the piece periodically for the next several hours after application to wipe up any seepage that came up. Even so, you this went on for so long that it became an issue. Two full days after application I was still wiping up seepage. I would wipe the piece down before bed at night, and when I'd check it in the morning there would be spots on the surface that took a considerable amount of effort to buff out. I couldn't keep up with it, and after a few days the surface was covered in spots, which meant that I had to start over. As I mentioned previously, I could not find any information online regarding how to deal with this problem. Just to see what would happen, I decided to try aiming a heat gun at the work piece after it had been drying for a couple of hours. This worked phenomenally, and I could not have been more thrilled. Of course the heat didn't dry out the wood any faster or anything, but what it did do was vastly accelerate the seepage process. The oil was rapidly drawn up to the surface of the wood, where I could wipe it away, and after treating both sides in this manner for a total of perhaps 10 minutes it seemed that all of the excess oil had been drawn out. I wiped the work piece down and had no more issues. Of, like with any application involving a heat gun, I had to keep it moving, otherwise it would start to bake the spots of oil onto the surface. Anyways, I just thought this was a neat trick that might come in handy with oil finishes if seepage is ever a huge issue. I hope you guys found this interesting. Zach Owens Hello from Chico, Ca

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Just a question to ponder about the future of our favorite material. As old buildings get torn down there seems to a great supply of reclaimed lumber for our current generation. But as we know this is a finite resource. So with that said will the next generation be turning to our generation’s slab furniture for their reclaimed lumber? Doug Hey! Sorry if this has already been addressed in a previous episode. I’m in upstate NY, and I have a full wood shop detached from my house. The woodshop is insulated, but the temperature changes outside are pretty much the max, 100 degrees in the summer, and it will live at 20 degrees in the winter. In the winter, should I keep materials I’m working on in my house, bring them out to the shop when I’m cutting, and then bring them back in? It seems excessive, but it's really huge temperature changes. I’m mostly dealing with walnut. Is the temperature the bigger issue, or is it really humidity? I could maybe install a heat pump, just yah know it's a lot of energy. If I went that route, do you have a recommendation for a temp I should keep materials at? Thanks again for making such a great show -Mohamed Guys Questions: Hello and thank you for the wonderful podcast. I was hoping for some insights on builds for high moisture environments. My fiancé and I just moved into our first house and need to update the bathroom vanity. Rather than spend hundreds of dollars on a a shoddy big-box-store model, I would like to take a crack at building one myself. I have enough experience with woodworking and building cabinets that I feel confident with the actual construction, but am concerned about the high moisture environment. I plan on making a carcass out of prefinished plywood with face frames and drawer fronts out of a yet-to-be-determined species (likely red oak). What advice and considerations do you all have for these high moisture environments? Do I need to use special finishes or some sort of sealant for the hardwood components? Do I need to worry about sealing or finishing the edges of the plywood even though the faces are prefinished? Do I need any special considerations for moisture or even mold build up between the face frame and plywood carcass? Any and all advice on this is greatly appreciated Thanks as always! Andrew Hey Guys, I love your show. Hearing 3 sets of opinions with different levels of experience really helps me learn. I've heard so many different approaches to sanding that I'm coming to the experts for guidance. To what grit do you sand to for Oak, Walnut, Maple, and cherry. Do you think a planned or card scraped surface is better than a sanded surface? Does it take the finish just as well? Thanks for all you do! Ezra Huys Questions: Another question... I recently had a small tornado that took the roof off of my shop. As a result, all of my tools got wet and the power tools - table saw, jointer, band saw, drill press etc - all got wet and rusted. They've been in storage since March of this year. I have new shop being built and hope to have it done by the end of this month. What suggestions do y'all have in terms of getting the rust off of the tools and checking for any other possible water damage? Thanks. Ron Brewer I’m making a walnut bench that I want to route headboard sides (legs) on and I’m not sure how to go about it. I’m not sure if a straight edge/track with a router and at pointed round over bit would be the best route or if I should do it on the router table. I plan on using a 3/8” or 1/2” radius point cutting round over bit for the beading. The end two end panels are 16”x18” and 1.5” thick. I have a festool 1400 router and an Incra router table as possible options. Also, once I get these panels made what’s the best way to sand the beads since they come down to a tight point in the middle. Sanding seems like it would be a huge pain and not sure if the router bit would leave a good enough finish to apply finish without prep work. Thanks, Chayse

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hey all, great podcast, thank you for doing what you do. What are some favorite Christmas gifts to make with scrap wood? Specific context for me: been woodworking for a while, hobbyist, been giving gifts to people for years and now I've lost track of who has gotten what. Just trying to get some ideas for this year. Time is easier to give to a project than money. I also like the lathe for scrap projects. Have found a good glue up can make a good looking bowl. Follow up/more specific questions: What are some favorite scrap wood projects that are not kits from Rockler (or similar companies)? Other than a bowl, what are some other gifts that can come off the lathe? What are some non kitchen items to make from scrap wood? (I believe I've given too many cutting boards, charcuterie boards, cooking utensils over the years). Jim Hello friends, I haven't submitted a question in a hot minute, as the kids say, but I finally have a good one for you and it's regarding something I'm truly stumped about. After hitting you guys with question after question about, "How do I do _______ without a jointer or planer?" I finally got myself a thickness planer. It's louder than all hell, and it's nothing fancy, but I'm glad I have it. There's only one issue that I'm having with it, and I can't figure out what's causing it. When I'm getting ready to Mill down some stock, I first set the height of the planer blades so they aren't taking off any material at the start. The depth of cut indicator is at "0". I'll even send the board through with the blades at this height sometimes just to make sure the gauge is accurate. I then lower the blades by 1/64", aka a quarter turn of the handle. I send the piece of stock through, it takes off some material, whatever. So far, so good. Here's what's throwing me off: after I've fed that board through the planer, I can feed that same board right back through, with the blades still set at the same height, and the planer will take off about the same amount of material, from the sound of it. This doesn't only happen on a second pass, either. I can feed the same board through the planer six, seven, or eight times, without adjusting the cutting depth, and the planer continues to remove material at each pass. Unless I'm missing something about how planers work, I would think that the material should have been planed down to thickness on the first pass. I can't figure out why it continues to remove material after multiple passes when I haven't changed the settings. This happens to me every time I use my planer. Not sure if this is relevant but I have a Ridgid #R4331 planer. I also attached a link to a very loud video demonstrating this phenomenon. Thank you in advance for your help and expertise, and thank you for continuing to take the time to put out this phenomenal woodworking podcast. I hope your projects are doing well, and I hope you're doing even better. Sincerely, Zachary T Owens Guys Questions: Hello, Thank you for the great podcast and for answering my questions. I have a question on using Transtint dye. I heard Guy and Huy mention they use it. Not sure about Brian. Anyway, I screwed up 2 projects when trying to apply it. In both cases I mixed it into Zinser Sealcoat shellac. Firs time applied with foam brush on elm. The second time wiped on on maple plywood. In both cases, the color was very inconsistent. I ended up throwing away the plywood and sanding the elm back to bare wood. My question is, is it ok to add Transtint dye to shellac? If so, what could be my problem? More importantly, can you tell me the process you follow to apply Transtint dye? The dye I was using is Transtint Dark Walnut. Max I have owned my Sawstop cabinet saw for nearly a year now and I have consistently been impressed with the quality of the machine. One thing that has bugged me since I got the saw is the occasional binding I get when I do a rip cut especially. I have meticulously aligned the fence with the blade/miter slots and with a dial indicator jig to be parallel. I thought it may be internal stresses in the wood but I have the same issue ripping plywood or MDF. I finally figured out the problem. I am using Freud thin kerf blades which have a kerf of 0.091" inches according to the manufacturer. My riving knife is a few thousands thicker than this . Sawstop offers a thin riving knife but I have seen mixed opinions and wanted to get your guys' take on it since I know at least one or two of you have the Sawstop cabinet saw. Have you ever had this problem? Thanks! Adam Huys Questions: Dear Woodshop Life Podcast Senseis, Thank you again for your awesome podcast. New listener. Finally finished all podcasts and now going back and listening to them all again. This is my second question submitted in the past few months. Just as I prefaced in my last question/submission, I am in the process of setting up my workshop in a one car space of a three car garage. One of the first things I

Due to some tech difficulties, we won't be uploading an episode this week. See you next time!

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Love the podcast fellas! I have a simple question: When I use my table saw, I usually just check if the blade is "high enough" i.e. any height higher than the wood piece. Is there an ideal blade height for a given wood thickness? Thanks! Matt What is the most difficult project you've ever done? Brian Guys Questions: I’m wondering how thick is too thick to veneer onto a plywood box. I’ll be making a treasure chest for my daughter’s wedding (for cards and such) and lining it in leather. I have some wood I’d like to use for the outside as “veneer”, but it is a 3/8” thick. The species is morado, and they were a “special buy” thing at a Woodcraft I got a while ago. Basically, I have them and I’d like to use them if possible rather than buying something else. My bandsaw isn’t always the most reliable, so while I would feel comfortable splitting them and then planing them flat again, that might be as thin as I’m able to do. I’m guessing 1/8” thick once all the processing is done. Is that too thick to use as veneer? Is there a glue that’s better for a thicker veneer than a thin one? Thanks, Peter I recently bought a small bandsaw mill (Woodmizer LX30) and am becoming an amateur sawyer, exclusively to supply lumber for my own projects. 2 questions, here's the first: 1. In what use cases, if any, would you use air-dried lumber for your projects, assuming it is stickered properly, outside, with a rain cover on the top, for a year per inch of thickness? I was told by a friend who operates a kiln that air-drying in southern Indiana will never get the moisture content much below 13-15%, it will dry unevenly throughout the board, and it won't kill powder post beetles and other insects. His conclusion is that for any indoor woodwork projects, I should only use kiln-dried lumber. Do you agree? Why or why not? Fortunately, he's well-respected, trustworthy, and at $.35/bd-ft dried, affordable. But I can air-dry for free, so I'd be curious to know when, if ever, that may be workable. Kyle Huy's Questions: I have another good fundamentals of woodworking type question for you. Could you explain the differences between grain density and porosity? For a while I thought I knew what at least one of these meant. That was until I heard Guy describe oak as a tight-grained, open pore species. That whole description goes more or less right over my head. I'd really appreciate it if you guys could explain what grain density and wood porosity look like visually, as well as what effects these attributes have on working with a particular species, finishing it, etc. Thanks for all of your time and for sharing your expertise with all of us. The Fridays when you guys have new episodes are my favorite days of the week. Zach Hello Friends, I have a woodshop at my house in the PNW. I’m somewhere between a beginner and not a beginner. If you want to answer this question on your fantastic podcast, you can of course skip the preamble. I offer it here so you can understand the context and environment in which my question lives. Because we are friends, I care what you think, so I hope you don’t arrive at the conclusion that I’m impractical. I’ve tried to create a shop environment that incorporates a whimsical and creative aesthetic because that is how I aspire to be in this space. I built an entry door and carriage doors for my 500sq foot detached woodshop. Doors guts are constructed from poplar frames, 1.5” ridged insulation in the voids, MDO skin on the exterior side trimmed in the craftsman style with ¾ cedar. The interior side of the doors are skinned in plywood and laminated with orange counter top material. The orange is the same color as those orange shirts people who work hard wear. I like to wear these shirts to give my wife the impression that I too am working and not just fudging around. I wanted my workshop to feel likewise. Door window sills and trim are walnut. On the entry door, I’ve installed a commercial style stainless steel handset modified for a 3” thick door. Carriage doors are hung with 4 heavy duty sealed ball bearing hinges per side. For the carriage doors, I had custom astragals and a threshold plate fabricated at a local metalworking shop, and used stainless steel cane bolts that plunge through the threshold plate to hold the doors tight against the weather seals and another set of cane bolts at the top to complete the seal. The carriage door handles are two of my favorite axes. I designed mounting hardware, built by the fabricator, with a quick release pin system so I can pull them off when I need them for axe related business. Inside the shop, I’ve installed antique reclaimed maple flooring on the walls. The flooring was recovered from a factory that used to make steam powered tractors for hauling giant old growth redwood trees out of the forests on the west coast in the late 1800’s. It seemed like a fitting retirement for these floors. I didn’t resurface the flooring (which is now w

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I recently bought a good amount of S3S ambrosia Maple from Rockler. I bought it at a crazy discount. The first time I picked some up they were selling it for $3 per board foot, and when I came in a few weeks later it had dropped to $1 per board foot. I asked multiple employees why the price was so low. They all said that they simply just didn't have room for the material. Looking around this seemed to be the case. I have been storing the wood in the loft of my shed/shop for several weeks now, which is cool and dry this time of year. I finally decided to begin a project using some of this material, but to my dismay I have discovered that most of the boards have a twist in them. I've been able to minimize this problem by strategically cutting the boards into smaller pieces, but when I put them in my crosscut sled, I've noticed that a few of the boards aren't even flat on the edge that is supposed to be jointed. Is this something I should expect after moving lumber that had been stored somewhere with moderate temperature and humidity to a cooler and dryer location? Or is it possible the store was selling this wood for so cheap because people had had issues with this material already? I try not to be overly fussy, especially when I've I've gotten a good deal on something, but this is one of the first times that I've purchased a significant amount of hardwood from a higher quality store and what I'm looking at is about the same quality I'd expect after picking out hardwood boards at random from a big box store. Lastly, considering that I don't have a joiner or a planer, is there any way for me to try to correct the twist in these boards? For now I just have worst of the boards clamped down to a flat surface. Thanks in advance for your time and your feedback. Sincerely, Zach Owens Hi guys, I have a question about how long does it takes, when working on a project, before "project fatigue" sets in? I woodwork for at least an hour or more everyday (much more on the weekends) and I have built book cases, a fancy cat tree, a hallway table, small boxes, solid oak doors, and shop furniture in the past year. Sometimes I get to the point where I just want to finish up the current project so I can start something new. It seems to happen around the 4 to 6 week mark. Do you ever get project fatigue? Just curious if I'm not alone. Also, thank you to Guy for discussing hide glue and shellac in previous podcasts. I'm now making my own glue and dissolving my own shellac flakes. I like the traditional aspect and easy of use. Cheers Chris from North Mankato, MN Guys Questions: I would like to build my kids a set of montessori style bookshelves out of solid maple, and I can see myself making more of these in the future for others. So, I am trying to figure out how to make the joinery fast, accurate and repeatable. Also, I would like to avoid using screws and I do not own a domino, so I think that probably makes dowels the best option? How would you make the 2 sides to this bookshelf? My thoughts are to make a template for the sides so I can route the shape. I am struggling with the dowels... Due to wood movement in the vertical shelf pieces, I was thinking about using 2 dowels, where one will be fixed and the other will have a slot cut into the side panel. See attached photos. Each horizontal shelf piece will be dadoed to the vertical shelf piece and the 4 shelves will not be connected to each other to help account for wood movement. If I use an mdf template for the sides and also put the dowel holes and slots in it, how would you cut the holes and slots? Router, router with bearing, drill press, hand drill? Is there a better way that could be easier or faster than I am missing? Thank you for all you help! Jeff Hello all! Thank you for a great show! About a year ago I built a cabinet with a cherry top. It was finished with a single coat Zinser Bulls Eye Seal Coat, followed by 3 coats of Poly. (wiped on). See original picture attached. Since then in a few places it developed small white spots. What would you recommend for me to do to fix it? Can I just apply a few more coats on top? If so, how would I prep the top? Or do I need to sand it back to bare wood? If so, what would be the process to sand it back? Bonus question, what could I have done to fail to prevent this? Max Huys Questions: 2. I remember a while back Huy mentioned buying a sewing machine and considering upholstery. Have you don’t anything with it? My wife has been on me for years to build a chaise lounge for our living room for a specific space, but even watching folks demonstrate the art I get a bit frazzled. I know Guy’s solution-just go buy the damn cushions. So, Guy, would you have your wife buy them first and build around them or build the piece (whatever it may be) and send her on a quest to find some to fit? Any resources for upholstery on wooden furniture? Peter Downing A few years ago I got some beautiful, large piec

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I’ve been making music boxes and trying to replicate the traditional style (see attached photos). I’m struggling to get the curved edge just right. I’ve tried using a planer, but I keep messing up and have ended up wasting a lot of boards. Router round-overs almost work, but still need planed or sanded after routing to get the shape just right, and also they’re pretty dangerous given the small and awkward size of the pieces—I’m working with ¾-inch thick wood that’s 2.5 inches high for the box sides. I'd like a repeatable process that provides consistent shapes, but can't seem to find a way to achieve it. Advice? Trish I’ve heard a few of your podcasts where you speak about making boxes and using a router to make the miter. I’m assuming you’re using a bit with a 45° angle. What I don’t understand is, how do you get the sides to be the exact same length while using your router table. It would seem to me that having the top of the angle (the point of the angle) against the fence would be almost impossible to get perfectly sized sides. Can you please describe what I am missing here, since a perfect 45° angle using a route a bit seems incredibly simple. Mike G. Guys Questions: I have always tried to select straight grain for legs, aprons, stretchers and the frame of a frame and panel. I am now thinking this may be too much straight grain in a piece of furniture. When are the times that you would not do this and would instead use a more interesting grain pattern in these pieces. Does the wood species affect your choice? For example, it seems like the current trend with walnut is not worrying about getting any straight grain in the pieces at all. Thanks for all your help. Jeff Hi from Melbourne Australia. I’ve been listening for years, and I like how y’all do things! Thanks for making the best woodworking pod. Like everyone, I have a small shop, that I fit a lot into. Without listing every item… I’ve got stationary machines covered with a euro style slider (Hammer K3), a 14” bandsaw (N4400) and a combo planer/thicknesser (A3-31). Those 3 cover my needs really well, and I’ve learned to work within the capacity of my tools and space. It’s the secondary/benchtop machines that are causing trouble. Mitre saw was first to go. Don’t miss it, don’t need it. I’m looking at sanders next. The disc sander stays, couldn’t live without it. But the 1632 drum sander and the oscillating bobbin sander are both rarely used and take up space I want back. Could you life without them? If not, what’s the essential job they do for you? I’m usually making furniture sized objects. With the finish I get off the helical thicknesser, I find that hand planes/scrapers, ROS, and hand sanding is usually all I need. For bigger flat things, I’m gonna pay a pro shop to put it thru a wide belt sander anyway. Johnny Huys Questions: I was trained on a belt sander, and as Guy has mentioned, there is a learning curve. I’m now very proficient with one and it is a central part of my stock prep: from the planer, I belt sand a rough-sized board with 80 grit, wet it down and let it dry to raise any remaining compression marks from the planer, and then belt sand with 120. I then cut the board to final dimension, random orbital sand with 120, cut the joinery, and then random orbital sand the fitted piece to 180 before final assembly. The process leaves flawless surfaces every time. For panel glue-ups and tabletops, I glue up from the planer using cauls and then make sure the 80 grit belt sanding that follows evens out any discrepancies in height along the joints (hopefully they are minimal). I have zero experience with a drum sander, but I would consider getting one if it could replace some of the above belt sanding, as the belt sander is no light weight hand tool, and it’s a killer on my back when I have to sand a full width dining table. I would likely get the PM2244, as I have heard it is the easiest to adjust. You all have mentioned that a drum sander does NOT offer a finish ready surface, as it leaves sanding ridges along the workpiece. This is not a problem in my workflow if it replaces the belt sander. My questions: Are these ridges similar to what I get with the belt sander for a given grit, or are they deeper, requiring by comparison to the belt sander extra time on the following grit? Since I am not seeking to dimension or flatten, but merely prep the surface for the next grit, would one pass in the drum sander for each grit be enough, or am I looking at multiple passes per grit? With a belt sander, there is a lot of back and forth, but with a drum sander I’m wondering if a single pass through will give the same result. How easy and fast is it to change the grit on a drum sander if I want to run 80 grit and then 120 in each sanding session? A dual drum unit is not in the budget. Finally, how reasonable is it to get good results sanding a tabletop that exceeds the width of the sander (i.e., the 22 in the Power

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Thank you for your awesome podcast! I recently started listening and am still working through older podcasts while staying up on your bi-weekly episodes. I would describe myself as a longtime hobbyist who has built some basic furniture but who still has much to learn. My current project is setting up my workshop in one car space of a 3 car garage after having moved back to California from Colorado. We’ve been back for over 3 years, but holding down a demanding full-time job and getting 2 kids through grad school has kept my wife and I pretty busy and has left little time for hobbies. Since I don’t have any specific projects in the works besides setting up my shop, my question is a little broader. Curious to learn more about your thoughts on hand planes. How much of your woodworking repertoire includes the use of hand planes, what types of hand planes do you use the most and for what types of jobs do you use them? Or, do you completely omit hand planes from your woodworking arsenal? Thanks again for the great podcast. Best regards, Darryl Noda (Wildfield Woodshop) Thanks once again for putting out the most helpful woodworking podcast I listen to! I'm making a lot of small boxes, many of which I make as one piece and then cut the lid off with a table saw or bandsaw. How do you deal with glue squeeze-out on the interior corners of such boxes, when you can't access it until after you cut off the lid? My current methods are to pre-finish the interior sides of the box, so the squeeze out doesn't affect the finish, or else to use painter's tape at the corners. The pre-finishing works decently but requires a lot of forethought and has some limitations; the painter's tape is a pain and doesn't work all that well. Another method I've tried is not caring about the squeeze-out and installing box inserts to cover it up. Do you all have a preferred method for dealing with gluing up closed boxes? Thanks again in advance for your good advice. Kyle can you live without a pedestal drill press? It’s handy, with relatively small footprint. But it seems like I use it exclusively perpendicular holes with Brad point or forstner bits., I could probably replace it with a drill guide like this UJK one. https://www.axminstertools.com/global/ujk-technology-drill-guide-with-10mm-chuck-106072 Thanks again for the pod, and for considering my question! Johnny Huy's Questions: My wife and I were on vacation earlier this summer driving from Iowa to Florida and I was board listening to the radio and she suggested I look for a podcast on woodworking. Boy was she sorry she suggested that! I found your podcast and what an informative and fun podcast! I’ve listen to a lot of them but have not got to them all. I am getting back to woodworking and have started a side gig and have completed a few projects for a few people and have several more to do. I’m doing tables, shelves, cabinets, bookshelves, benches, and some other smaller things. I have a pretty good shop with a pretty good tool selection. Just purchased a Sawstop PCS 175, 36” fence and I can’t believe the quality from my old Delta contractor saw. It will certainly help me up my game on a lot of things. I have a couple of questions that I hope you can help. Some of these projects are stained and others are painted. Up to this point I have just used brushes and rollers to paint and use mostly Sherwin Williams paint. The project turns out ok and my clients are satisfied but I’m ready to kick it up a notch by spraying. I’ve used a sprayer called a Criiter and while it works ok it very difficult to use on anything of size. I’m lo I recently had the misfortune of losing my shop to a windstorm/tornado. So, I now 'get' to rebuild. I plan on having a footprint of about 30 x 40 with a 10' rollup door and one man door. I have several questions so appreciate that you may not be able to answer them all. 1. What would you suggest for the interion walls? OSB, plywood or ? 1/2" or 3/4"? 2. I plan on putting my table saw and outfeed table in the middle of the shop with the other typical tools - bandsaw, drill press, router table, jointer, planer on or near the exterior walls. Do you have any suggestions as to the layout of the shop? 3. My tools were all rescued thought they undoubtedly suffered some water damage and I won't really know the extent of the damage until the new shop is up and the tools are unloaded from the storage container. Any thoughts on how to deal with potentially water damaged tools? 4. I plan on getting a new dust collector as my old one didn't make it; a wall fell on it and I don't think it can be repaired. Any suggestions for a new one? I plan on plumbing in pvc piping to each of the tools so would like to have something pretty robust. 5. What would you suggest for shop height? My last shop was formerly used as a barn so had a 15' or so height; I don't think I need anything that high but am thinking about 10 or 11 feet here. 6. I plan on ad

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hello gentleman, thank you again for one of the best woodworking podcasts available. I recently had the opportunity to travel to Lebanon IN for a few days of training at a tool manufacturer. I won't mention the company, but I got to use a Domino and a Rotex sander for the first time..., but I digress. While I was in the airport waiting for my flight home and enjoying a breakfast sandwich, I looked down at the table and noticed the "purposeful-design" logo branded on the top. This experience gave me two questions. One, what finish did Guy and Brian use on these tables to survive the abuse of so many travelers per day through an airport? Two, during the training we sanded a piece of cherry to 1500 grit, giving a very high sheen to the bare wood. What type of technique or finish would you use on something like that? Thank you for the great podcast, and I'm sorry I didn't have time to say hi while I was in Indianapolis. I waved from the plane, but you probably didn't notice. Josh Hello fellow wood-nerds. I would like some advice on finishing. I’ve been doing a bathroom remodel. Which means I’ve spent a very long time doing non-woodworking work and learning new skills and desperately missing my shop time. I’m near the end finally and actually get to do some woodwork to wrap it up. My new floor doesn’t quite line up with the floor in the next room and the transition pieces available don’t quite suit. So I’m making one custom out of walnut. My question is: what would be a good finish? I don’t want it glossy or “plasticy” looking. But of course it will be stepped on and exposed to humidity from the shower so it does need to be durable. Thanks in advance Jason Guys Questions: This one may for Guy specifically but I'm interested in getting a 3D printer and would like your opinion on what I might want to look at. I have a total budget of around $1000 and want something that is very turnkey; I don't have a ton of time to learn how to use the machine and would like that will work for me out of the box. I'm looking at the Bambu Labs p1S; would this be a good starter machine? Thanks again for the great Podcast! Ron Brewer Hi Guys, I am hoping to eventually upgrade my table saw from a jobsite saw. I have heard a little bit of discussion about the advantages of an induction motor over a universal motor but I was wondering if you could provide some insight about voltage for a table saw. Obviously higher power is available with table saws that operate on higher voltages but as a hobbyist I am wondering how much power I actually need. I do make some cabinets and furniture as well as smaller projects. So here is an assortment of questions that are perhaps intertwined: Is the increase in power with a 240V saw worth it? I would also have to get new electrical added to my garage. Is the type of motor related to the voltage? In your opinion are table saws that can be rewired from 120 to 240V a viable option? Would the power actually change with the rewiring? Are there any other considerations that I am not thinking of? Thank you all for your insight. Brad Huys Questions: If you're installing a herringbone floor, do you need to think about chatoyance, in addition to colour and grain pattern, when you're laying out the pieces? Do you want all of the pieces to be oriented to have similar chatoyance? Lauris Hello Guys, I listen to your podcast while driving to and from work. I really appreciate that you stay on track and offer several opinions regarding woodworking without the cackling and inside jokes, poor microphone control etc that other woodworking podcasts seem to have. I build a lot of Shaker style furniture with tapered legs and built my own taper jig, a sled which clamps the leg at the desired angle with the widest part of the cutoff leading into the blade. This has worked very well except that occasionally, the wedge that is cutoff tips into the crack between the saw blade and the insert, jamming and sometimes tripping the saw's overload protection. I have cut a brand new table saw insert with the intention of creating as close to a zero clearance slot as possible but it still is wide enough for the sliver edge of the taper cutoff to drop in. How have you avoided this in the past? Would a reverse orientation of the taper jig be safer such that the thinnest part of the cutoff is cut first and therefore at the back of the blade and the thickest part is the last part cutoff? Thank you! Don

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions Hey guys, appreciate you answering several of my questions in the past, so I thought of a few more. Feel free to separate as they are not related: 1: What do you do, if anything, to maintain furniture you have built? What would you tell a client if they were to ask you. I have always heard Murphy’s oil is a good restorative, but when I looked at a bottle at the store I discovered it’s just mineral oil. I would never recommend that. Or should I? Lemon Pledge Furniture Polish. Joking, but seriously, what is a good answer? Paste wax? Or just wipe the dust off and let it be? Peter Downing I’m building a dresser and have built the carcass out of cherry plywood. I’ve glued up a panel out of solid cherry that I want to use as the top. I want to attach the solid panel to the top of the carcass. Would you recommend using screws from the inside/underside of the plywood top and allowing for wood movement or is it ok to glue the solid wood top to the plywood carcass top? Eric Guys Questions Domino vs beadlock set up from rockler? Same principle...and , in my experience...same outcome. Thoughts? Crafted Carpentry Tampa When I wanted to learn how to apply shellac, I did a search and found a Youtube video of Guy from the late 70's when Youtube first came out demonstrating his technique involving a balled up rag and a mason jar with a lid to keep it in so it doesn't dry out between coats. That video is fantastic and I learned a lot than just the rag and jar business. Inevitably, when I'm done shellacking for the day, I leave the rag Guy's Jar. Because you never really know when you are done applying shellac to something until you arrive at that destination, I end up leaving that rag in the jar for a few weeks. It's amazing how well it keeps even weeks later. HOWEVER, on more than one occasion, when I pull Guy's Rag from the jar, it is moldy. This surprised me the first time because I assumed that the amount of alcohol in the shellac would prevent anything from growing. Does this happen to y'all or is indicative of something amiss. I just toss it and get a new rag. Additional data points: Shallac is < 2 months old, made from flakes, sourced from Oregon's shellacshack.com I'm using Platina colored shellac usually I'm using "Finishers Edge Shellac Reducer" instead of denatured alcohol because is way more expensive so it must be better right? Jar is a resealable mason jar with a rubber gasket Cloth is from the "bag of t shirts" you can buy at your local woodworking store Shellac still has a strong odor of fresh shellac I reuse the same jar to store my rag Because I'm not a proctologist, there is a chance I've misdiagnosed the mold so I attached an image of the rag. Robert Huys Questions Gents, there is a question here, but I wanted to share some info with you first. In a recent episode there was a bit of a discussion of using Tung oil and how to thin it, etc. I recently made a walnut desk inspired by the Nakashima style. I've had the good fortune to get my eyes and hands on some of his pieces for inspiration - they are amazing. Anyway, on the Nakashima website they discuss the care of their furniture, mentioning how they use Southerland Welles Tung Oil Wiping Varnish. https://sutherlandwelles.com/product-category/wipingvarnish/ It is really easy to apply and looks fantastic, especially on walnut. I used the Sealer and High Lustre Polymerized Tung Oil finishes. I highly recommend them. (this is not a paid ad!) Finally, here is my question: Have you ever taken a technique, tool, or finish that is used in another craft for your use in furniture making? An example might be Tru Oil used on gunstocks as a furniture finish? Or a technique used by luthiers that helped you in furniture making? Thanks again for a great podcast! Regards, David V. Hi guy I have a question or re3ally looking for advice. I noticed the tension on the v-belt of my delat 14 inch band saw was lose. It looked like freely wabblying when spinning the balde and I could come reaelly close to touching the two sides together when pinching the belt. Anyways I found the manuel online and it says there should be 1 inch deflection. asuming the maker knows what they are talking about I never seen a belt with that much allowance after being tight, so what do you think? Also Wen mention how much a pain replacing the tires or wheels were, how do you do that (i know google will answer my questions too, but we like hearing you guys talk)? Last part, are these upgrades really worth it, sometime I buy into something that really is not an improvement (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpDA2X6L9Y4) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FOa9EJf91g) Paul Miotchell