This Is TASTE

Vallery Lomas is a former Washington, DC, lawyer, a current New York City food writer and restaurant chronicler, and the author of a wonderful new cookbook, Life Is What You Bake It. Vallery also competed on—and won— season 3 of The Great American Baking Show. In this interview, we talk a little bit about her season of the show, which unfortunately never aired because of many allegations made against one of the judges. We also tackle some of the baking world’s biggest questions—we’re talking cookie vs. brownie and mint vs. white chocolate. Also on the show, cohosts Anna Hezel and Matt Rodbard talk about one of the greatest culinary achievements in the history of food (at least to one of the hosts): ranch dressing. They discuss what defines ranch, the beauty of ranch on pizza, and how ranch may need a little PR. Well, here is some PR! Additional reading: Vallery Lomas and Ruby Tandoh on New Cookbooks and Old Food Media [TASTE] Leah Chase Expanded Horizons for Black Women in Food [TASTE] Ranch Isn’t a Dressing. It’s a Lifestyle. [TASTE] Buy the book: Life Is What You Bake It Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

There are plenty of things we take for granted about walking into a grocery store: the fluorescent lights, the astoundingly inexpensive milk, the neatly stacked boxes of Nabisco cookies. But as Benjamin Lorr uncovers in his book The Secret Life of Groceries, there’s more than meets the eye. Lorr went undercover as a Whole Foods fishmonger, boarded a shrimp-fishing boat in Thailand, and rode along with a truck driver in a quest to understand some of the unseen economics and labor that fuel our everyday commodities. In this episode, we talk about supply chain disruptions, neighborhood grocery tastemakers, and the origins of Trader Joe’s. Also on the show, Anna sits down with author and journalist Leah Koenig to discuss the burgeoning world of TikTok and Instagram foraging. Additional reading: It Was a Big Year for TikTok Foraging [TASTE] Benjamin Lorr’s ‘The Secret Life of Groceries’ Book Being Adapted As TV Docuseries [Deadline] Buy the book: The Secret Life of Groceries Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Our old friend and former TASTE columnist Priya Krishna has had a meteoric rise in food media, starting in the marketing department at Lucky Peach and going on to roles at Bon Appétit and, most recently, the New York Times, where she is a star reporter on the Food desk. In this interview, we talk about the new book she wrote with David Chang, Cooking at Home, and how they both set out to write a book that was original, opinionated, and clearly not the Momofuku Cookbook 2.0. We also talk about some of her recent stories at the New York Times, as well as in the pages of TASTE. Also on the show, Anna Hezel speaks with Adam Erace, author of a recent hit story about the godfather sandwich, a mainstay in delis on the East Coast. We found out how the sandwich takes on many personalities—and was not necessarily inspired by the film that shares its name. Additional reading: Was Cast Iron Almost Canceled? [TASTE] The Vegan Jerky Industrial Complex [TASTE] Why Do American Grocery Stores Still Have an Ethnic Aisle? [The New York Times] The Godfather Sandwich Is Everything and Nothing [TASTE] Buy the book: Cooking at Home Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jesse Szewczyk is a talented food stylist, recipe developer, and author of a new cookbook, Cookies: The New Classics. Were you hoping for some inspiration for your planned holiday cookie swap? He has some really creative takes on classic cookies, including Smoked Butter Chocolate Chunks and Cacio e Pepe Slice and Bakes. In this episode, we talk about his unique creative process, in which he comes up with the cookie name first and then backs into the actual recipe development—a bold move indeed. We discuss his former life as a corporate recipe developer, helping develop concepts for major fast food and QSR chains like Buffalo Wild Wings, Sizzler, and the granddaddy of them all, Taco Bell. Also on the show, cohosts Anna Hezel and Matt Rodbard talk about some of their favorite cookbooks, both big and small, being released this fall. They discuss books about Chicago pizza, New York pizza, Southern baking, sustainable meat, and the latest from Dorie Greenspan and Sandor Katz. Additional reading: Brown Butter–Bourbon Rice Krispies Treats [Food52] Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookies [The Kitchn] Parmesan Cheesecake Bars [TASTE] Buy the book: Cookies: The New Classics Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

You may know him as the friendly face who joins Julia Child on-screen to cook crêpes Suzette with precision and to improvise with big hunks of pork in Julia & Jacques Cooking at Home. Or you may know him from one of the most viral omelet instructional videos of all time. But lately, the celebrated 85-year-old chef, TV personality, and author has been focusing on cooking what’s growing in his garden, painting chickens, and showing the internet how to prepare a meal on a tight budget. In this episode, Anna Hezel speaks to Jacques Pépin about some of these recent passions—and why nonstick pans are so key to making a perfect omelet. Also on the show, Matt Rodbard catches up with Adam Reiner, the founder of the Restaurant Manifesto and the author of a recent TASTE story about the brilliant cookbook manuscript left behind by late pastry chef Gina DePalma. Additional reading: When Jacques Pépin Made All the World an Omelet [TASTE] The Pastry Chef’s Lost Cookbook [TASTE] Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

We are BACK, and have some incredible interviews lined up on the freshly relaunched TASTE Podcast. One of those interviews is with Eric Kim. Eric has a signature style with his food writing and journalism, which has appeared frequently in the New York Times, Food52, and other publications. He blends a truly lyrical style of prose with deep reporting chops and a knack for simple and highly focused recipe development—a rare triple threat! In this conversation, Eric talks about some of his hit recipes in the Times, and he shares details about his forthcoming cookbook Korean American, out next March. We also talk about how crushing deadlines can sometimes inspire a genius recipe idea. Also on the show, cohosts Anna Hezel and Matt Rodbard discuss what they’ve been up to for the past two years and how the TASTE Podcast is coming back bigger, bolder, and featuring 100 percent more ranch dressing. Additional Eric Kim reading: The Perfect Dinner for Two [New York Times Magazine] What’s in Your Second Fridge? [TASTE] The Best Coffee Break Is an Affogato [New York Times] Preorder Eric's book: Korean American Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The TASTE Podcast has brought some incredible friends and heroes into the studio, and we wanted to relive some of our favorite conversations, including candid and sometimes hilarious talks with Ruth Reichl, Pete Wells, Helen Rosner, Dorie Greenspan, Julia Moskin, and Francis Lam. We also talk about all the exciting things in the works for TASTE, including our upcoming cookbook, Lasagna, and a bunch of other projects. This is not goodbye. This is see you on the Internet, or in person, very soon. You can follow us on Twitter at: @HezelAnna and @MattRodbard. And of course, visit TASTE online: tastecooking.com. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Friend of TASTE Daniel Holzman joins for a hilarious and truly meaningful conversation about the life of a traveling chef. Holzman, cofounder of the Meatball Shop and veteran of high-end kitchens in Los Angeles, San Francisco, and New York City, is also a TASTE columnist and a gifted photographer. We talk about his journey from working at Le Bernardin in high school, to his time as a young cook with Jean-Louis Palladin, to opening a restaurant with his best friend. Also on the show, journalists Matt and Ted Lee join to talk about their latest book, Hotbox: Inside Catering, the Food World's Riskiest Business. It’s a deep and meaningful look at the world of corporate catering. They talk about what it was like to go undercover. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

What a lineup on today’s episode! First up, Tartine’s Chad Robertson sits down for an interview at his brand-new Manufactory in downtown Los Angeles. We talk a bit about the grand expansion of Tartine but also go back to his early days of baking in his backyard in Northern California—and how he might just crave that simpler time. We also talk about his company’s move to Korea, and what it’s like to operate there. What a cool interview. Next up, I had the great pleasure of sitting down with Serious Eats founder Ed Levine. We talk about his early days in food journalism and the ups and downs of running a media start-up in a wildly competitive, and changing, landscape. We also dive into his great new memoir, Serious Eater. Lastly we speak with Donna Leonard, the owner of legendary New York City restaurants Il Buco and Il Buco Alimentari. We talk about some of the amazing chefs who have cooked at the restaurants, and she closes with a ghost story. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

David Kinch is the chef-owner of acclaimed Northern California restaurant Manresa and a legend in American fine-dining circles. On this episode, we head back to New York City in the 1980s and talk about his time working at the influential restaurant Quilted Giraffe—and how his post-shift meals at Midtown izakayas back then reflected the city’s changing culinary landscape. We also discuss his upcoming opening, Menton, and how he’s been traveling around America researching pasta. Also on the episode is Isaac Toups, the James Beard Award–nominated chef-owner of Toups’ Meatery in New Orleans and the author of Chasing the Gator. We discuss the definition of Cajun cuisine and how it occupies such a unique place in American culinary history. Plus, we talk about a trip he took to Lyon, France and the surprising connections he made. Lastly, Max Falkowitz answers a burning reader question about the price of vanilla. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Odette Williams is the author of Simple Cake and delivers on the book’s lofty promise: that baking cake can be simple! The book is organized into 10 base cakes and 15 toppings, and readers are encouraged to mix and match at their baking leisure. In this episode, we dive into what inspired the Australian bakeware designer to make the leap to publishing—and what is so rad about baking cakes for everyday snacking. Indeed, she’s a very big proponent of the snacking cake. What an idea. Also on this episode, photographer and author Austin Bush joins to talk about his incredible book, The Food of Northern Thailand. He shares stories of adventure and pork rinds, and what goes into the writing and reporting of a guidebooks. He’s currently working on editions for Laos and Vietnam. He also shares details about an upcoming book project. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Big ideas, strong opinions, and a deadpan Instagram. These are a few of my favorite things. Former pastry chef and current Empellon boss man Alex Stupak is a complicated—and incredibly sincere—dude, and in this episode we have a really spirited conversation about chicken sandwiches, aquafaba, his time at WD-50, Maggi seasoning, his cookbook, Tacos, and making Mexican food at home. Phew! It’s a really cool talk. Also on the show, we ask Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman a reader question. Hint: There are donuts involved. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

As the cofounder of online restaurant watchdog/chronicler Eater, and reservations booker Resy, Ben Leventhal has been at the center of all things dining out for over a decade. On this episode, we go back to the early days of Eater and talk about the rapid shift toward food as pop culture—which is not to be confused with pop culture’s crossover with food. That is, society’s deep interest in New York City’s Taiwanese restaurant boom, and not what that Foodgod guy is guiding this week. We clarify the difference. Ben also tackles the state of the restaurant reservation, and how restaurant owners are making it work in a very competitive climate. Note: This interview was conducted before Resy was acquired by American Express on May 15. Also on today’s show, Max Falkowitz answers a burning reader question about figs and veganism. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Hello summer, and hello vegetables! Michigan chef and cookbook author Abra Berens loves vegetables and has an inspiring new cookbook that presents them in the coolest way: braised, blistered, roasted, and raw. On this episode we talk about Ruffage, and Berens's journey from working the counter at Zingerman’s Deli to culinary school in Ireland to her current post cooking and farming in an exceptional way that recalls Dan Barber’s Blue Hill. Also on the show, TASTE’s Tatiana Bautista has a great conversation with Auria Abraham, the supercool founder behind Auria’s Malaysian Kitchen. They talk cooking with sambal and kaya, two amazingly diverse ingredients. And Auria makes the best around. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

“Rice is culture”—the spiritual spine of a new restaurant in Harlem—is one of the many big ideas chef and award-winning cookbook author JJ Johnson tackles in this spirited episode. We also go over how the media covers African-American food and the economics of running restaurants in New York City, and he relives a recent trip he took to Puerto Rico. Also on the show, writer Maggie Hoffman talks about her new book, Batch Cocktails. Just in time for all of those backyard parties. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Holy smokes, Priya Krishna and her new book, Indian-ish, have had quite a spring. She appeared on Today, toured America, sold a few copies along the way, and maybe pissed off a few people along the way, too (never a bad thing). I catch up with Krishna, a journalist and frequent TASTE contributor, about a month after the book’s release, and we went over it all. We talk about her great saag feta recipe and why the technique known as chhonk (tempering) is key in Indian home cooking. Also, why you should buy some asafoetida today. In addition we talk about her recent TASTE stories diving into yogurt culture (ha!), budino, and sun-dried tomatoes. What a cool conversation we had. Also on the show, Max Falkowitz answers a reader question: What is the difference between ice cream and gelato? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

So that thing about needing to rest your cooked petite filet for 20 minutes before slicing? The quest for cartoonish grill marks on your rib eye? Sous vide as the means to tenderloin glory? It’s all sorta false. Aaron Franklin has some strong opinions about all things steak (which he writes about in his new book, Franklin Steak), and we unpack many in this entertaining episode. Franklin, of waiting in a long line for barbecue in Austin, Texas, fame, also talks about the status of cutting that line and shares some thoughts on why a trip to Japan might just ruin him forever. Also on this episode, we had a great time speaking with some of the top minds in specialty coffee (jump to 21:34), including Christopher “Nicely” Abel Alameda (Menotti’s Coffee Stop), Kyle Glanville (Go Get Em Tiger), Bronwen Serna (Counter Culture Coffee), and Geoff Watts (Intelligentsia Coffee). Topics covered include farmer compensation, the pros and cons of espresso, the cost of a cup of coffee, and the rise of good coffee in Los Angeles, where this conversation was recorded at NeueHouse Hollywood. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

What exactly does it mean for food to be “modern”? Who better to ask than Anna Jones, the author of A Modern Way to Eat, A Modern Way to Cook, and most recently, The Modern Cook’s Year. In this conversation, we talk about what the word means to her, and she explains why she decided not to label any of her three books “vegetarian” even though none of them contain any meat. We also talked about why lettuces and salad greens are better when they’re charred, wilted, and a little bit warm. Also on this episode, Matt talks the stock market and the booming dumplings game with Hannah Cheng of New York’s Mimi Cheng’s. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Soleil Ho isn’t like other restaurant critics. She doesn’t use a star system to rate restaurants. She doesn’t use terms like “up-and-coming” or “ethnic” or “addictive,” and there’s a reason for that. Since she became the restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle a few months ago, she’s been shaking things up, rethinking the system, and…yeah, pissing some people off. We talked about this approach and what a restaurant critic’s responsibility is to their city. We also got to catch up about some of Soleil’s writing for TASTE, about eating dogs, and about the difference between “fusion” and the food that results from assimilation. Later on the show, Matt asks Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman a question from a listener.\ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

After working as a fact checker for years at The New Yorker and contributing to the magazine’s Tables for Two column, Hannah Goldfield was named the magazine’s first full-time restaurant critic in 2018. What a gig! It was great fun having her on, and we talked about how the column has evolved—it has gotten longer and tackles big ideas happening in food today through the lens of New York City restaurants. She reveals some of her favorite, and not favorite, meals from the past year and how she keeps her eating schedule in check. “Every day is a different calculation,” she reveals. We talk deadlines, linguistics, rent hikes, saving NYC, and why it was so very terrible to fish for your dinner (inside a fancy NYC restaurant, that is). Also on the show, Anna talks to cookbook author Danielle Walkerabout her new book, Eat What You Love, and the secret to her grain-free pizza dough. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

You might remember her cardamom-pistachio Swiss rolls from the Great British Baking Show, or the orange savarin that blew Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood away. But in her new book, Chetna Makan is moving from all the butter and sugar onto another topic: Healthy Indian. We talked about daily baking habits, canned chickpeas, and why her black lentil recipe is better than her mom’s. She also told the story of a recent Great British Baking Showreunion at a wedding that involved not one, but 10 cakes. Later on the show, we grill TASTE contributor Max Falkowitz with a hard-hitting question about hot dogs. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Chef and restaurateur Meherwan Irani is on a mission to change the perception of Indian food in America. Born in London, raised in India, and living in America for many decades, Irani’s experience with his native food is textured. At his outstanding and innovative Asheville and Atlanta restaurants, Chai Pani, he articulates a clear vision in the form of street food, which on this lively episode of the show we discuss in detail. From his Internet famous kale pakora, to the idea of jugaad—which basically means the ingenious ethic of hacking things to make them work—to his clear argument that there really isn’t something called Indian food. I love this guy. Also on the show, Anna has a fun and revealing interview with Donald Moore, the Chief Culinary Officer at The Cheesecake Factory. And, yes! They discuss the origins of the cheeseburger springroll. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Mike Fadem and Marie Tribouilloy love bitter amaros, buttery mortadella, and what some people might call “salad” but Marie calls “room temperature vegetables.” Their unpretentious Bushwick pizza restaurant, Ops, was just named as a James Beard Award semifinalist for its unique wine program. Most of the selections are natural wines picked by Mike (who also makes the pizzas), and when part of a bottle is leftover at the end of a night, Marie turns them into homemade vinegars. We talked about their Brooklyn neighborhood (Bushwick), charcuterie, and why cheap beer and amaro are a great combination. Later in this episode, Matt talks to Sumi Ali and Tony (Tonx) Konecny from Yes Plz Coffee, a weekly coffee subscription service that comes with some mighty fine reading material—newsprint zine. We love these guys. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The sudden and rather intense rise of Carla Lalli Music and her test kitchen crew at Bon Appétit to legit food-world celebs has been simply amazing to watch from the sidelines. Lalli Music is the longtime food director at the publication and stars in many of the YouTube videos BA puts out each month. On this highly entertaining episode of the podcast, Lalli Music talks about what’s in the special sauce for viral-video glory. And, oh yeah, she has written one of the year’s best cookbooks: Where Cooking Begins. It’s an argument for better and happier shopping, which ultimately leads to better cooking. This may seem a little abstract, but it all makes too much sense. Also on the episode, contributor Max Falkowitz answers a reader’s burning food question: Do spices actually expire? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

For near five years, journalist and former chef Bill Addison traveled America as Eater’s first, and only, roving restaurant critic. It was an epic and sometimes grueling run, one that I am sure will end up on the shelf of Kitchen Arts and Letters in memoir form in due time. Bill has since landed a new job in a city many consider to be the beating heart of American food culture today: Los Angeles! In this candid interview, Addison talks about his new gig as co-restaurant critic at the Los Angeles Times, where he and Patricia Escárcega have been tasked with replacing the legendary Jonathan Gold while also having a fresh take on the beat. We talk about Addison’s marching orders—the territory he will be covering and what defines L.A. proper—and some of the cuisines he will be targeting in a city of hundreds. Hint: Syrian home cooking has been getting a closer look as of late. I also ask him about the best restaurant he has visited in his short time as critic and the one pastry he cannot wait to bake in his new home kitchen. Also on the show I speak with Kim and Tyler Malek, the founders of beloved ice cream company Salt and Straw. We talk about their cool new cookbook and how they invent their hundreds of new flavors each year. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Longtime New York City restaurant critic and neighborhood wanderer Robert Sietsema used to fear for his job. “I feared for decades that I would get off the train and spot a dozen other food writers combing the neighborhood and beating the bush for restaurants, and I would have to engage them in fisticuffs to decide who got to go into this new restaurant from Indonesia in Elmhurst.” LOL. The fact of the matter is, as the extraordinarily articulate Sietsema explains in this sprawling and highly enjoyable conversation about his 25 years covering the city, that there is nobody who covers the outer boroughs like Robert. We talk about his later-in-life journey to food writing—including his influential food fanzine from the late 1980s, Down the Hatch—and his time working at the Village Voice and Eater, as well as his current quest to spot the city’s best sandwiches. Also on the show is Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman. She answers a reader’s burning question: What’s the most delicious thing you’ve eaten in New York City for under $3? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

When Nasim Alikhani opened Sofreh, an Iranian restaurant in Brooklyn’s Prospect Heights, she was 59 years old. She was an experienced home cook but had never worked in a restaurant in her life. We sit down to talk about some of the biggest surprises along the way and most important things she learned about keeping herself sane and keeping the restaurant steady. And, we talk about the subtle changes she and her chefs have made to a whole suite of classic homey Iranian dishes to make them restaurant-ready. Later on in this episode, Matt has a conversation with Diana Kuan, the author of Red Hot Kitchen. Her latest book dives into the world of classic chile sauces from across Asia. She and Matt talk about what makes a good XO sauce, why yuzu kosho tastes surprisingly great on tacos, and why some sauces are so much better when they’re homemade. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

After studying architecture at UC-Berkeley, Pichet Ong eventually made it to New York and worked as a chef with Jean-Georges Vongerichten from 1998 to 2004, cooking at the restaurant 66 (shout out to Sex and the City) and Spice Market, located in the then up-and-coming meatpacking district. Soon Ong established himself as one of the city’s most innovative pastry minds, weaving the flavors of Southeast Asia into classic French desserts. He also low-key popularized the salt-and-caramel flavor pairing that is now ubiquitous. We discuss it all in this lively conversation. Also on the show, Anna talks Austrian food with Markus Glocker, executive chef at Augustine and chef-owner of Bâtard. They talk about intricate Viennese pastries and messy, comforting spaetzle. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Four Horsemen in Brooklyn. Have you been there? Have you drank some wine there? Had some of the restaurant’s bread and cultured butter? It’s an amazing place, up on Grand Street, and I had a great time talking with the chef, Nick Curtola, and co-owner, James Murphy. James of the band LCD Soundsystem and fan of drinking natural wines by the Jeroboam. Nick of making really great bread—among other fine things. We talked about the unique way they run their place (we talk fancy water filtration), and also about the time James appeared on French national television and was asked to taste wines blindly. Awkward. He tells the story. Also on today’s show, TASTE contributor Max Falkowitz answers a burning reader question: What is Chicago pizza, exactly? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Michelle and Suzanne Rousseau are two sisters on a mission. They want the wide world of home cooks to think of Caribbean food as more than just jerk chicken. As they explore in their latest book, Provisions: The Roots of Caribbean Cooking, the food from the West Indies is layered with the history of colonialism, slavery, plantations, and the food businesses and home cooking that arose after emancipation. On this episode, we talk about some of the women throughout history responsible for preserving these traditions and propelling the food into the 21st century. We also talk about some of the ingredients (think breadfruit, plantains, culantro) that have created a common thread in the cuisines of these islands. Later on in the episode, Matt speaks to author Gretchen Rubin, author of books including, most recently, Outer Order, Inner Calm. They talk about some of the surprising ways that a philosophy of calmness and order can apply to cooking. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

There is no journalist I would rather talk to about Italy—and, really, talk about food in general—than Katie Parla. Her mind, her spirit, her willingness to drive around the wonderfully off-the-grid cow towns of Calabria for the sake of a book project. It’s all really special. In this episode, we talk about her decade-long obsession with the Italian South (and how this is a different thing entirely than “southern Italy”). We discuss her visiting places in Italy that “haven’t seen the Google van” and how her new cookbook, Food of the Italian South, documents it all through a really smart and articulate selection of recipes and stories. Also, Parla debunks a big myth surrounding Italian wedding soup. And that is: Most Italians wouldn’t be caught dead serving soup at a wedding. So where does its name come from? There is a story! Later on I catch up with Amy Zitelman of the remarkable Philadelphia company Soom Foods. She and her two sisters make what many (this writer included) consider to be the best tahini available in the United States. Her story about the rise of tahini in American restaurants is fascinating. And she gives some great advice about how to cook with it at home. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

I swear Akira Akuto and I only talked a little bit about the sandwich. What sandwich? The Sandwich. You can read about it in The New York Times: The Egg Salad Sandwich That Drew Eyes on Instagram. Sandwiches are beautiful; sandwiches are fine. But Akuto, a crazy-talented Los Angeles chef with New York City lineage, sure doesn’t want to make them all the time. In this wide-ranging interview, we talk about the opening of his new Echo Park restaurant, Konbi, and how he ditched the world of investment banking and got his start cooking in NYC at Momofuku and Franny’s. He also talks honestly about what it’s actually like to open a restaurant in L.A. these days. Also on today’s show, TASTE contributor Max Falkowitz answers a burning reader question: What exactly is uni? There’s a lot to…unpack here. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Los Angeles food world has the most low-key power couple. And they are very OK keeping it low-key. Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis are the chefs and owners of two of the buzziest and most influential restaurants in the city: Bestia and Bavel. They are also the authors of a cool new cookbook: Bestia: Italian Recipes Created in the Heart of L.A. During this interview, conducted before service at Bavel, we talk about Ori’s time spent in the Israeli army and how the experience informed the way he cooks today. They also list their favorite L.A. restaurants (they name the names!), Ori reveals what Instagram is saying about Genevieve’s pastries (she isn’t on social media so has no idea), and Ori breaks down the anatomy, and runaway success, of his most popular dish: the lamb neck shawarma. I love these people. Also on the episode, Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman plays the game F, Marry, Kill with three favorite chocolates. I love Deb, too! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

British journalist and cookbook author Yasmin Khan writes about Palestinian food tasting alive. But what does that mean? So much, it turns out, and we have a really great conversation about this incredible cuisine and history. Khan spent years reporting for her new book, Zaitoun: Recipes from the Palestinian Kitchen, and she discusses her on-the-ground reporting process. And she does something remarkable: Explaining za’atar (a cool though sometimes confusing Middle Eastern spice blend) in the most succinct, clear manner I’ve ever read. In recipe form! Tune in to find out all about that. Oh yeah, New Yorkers: The best knafeh can be found hidden in Park Slope. Tune in to find out! Also on the show is writer Rebekah Peppler, author of a great new book: Apéritif: Cocktail Hour the French Way. She talks about the three meanings of the apéritif. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Los Angeles chef Minh Phan has a really cool story to share with us. She is the owner of a highly original restaurant, Porridge + Puffs, located in the city’s Historic Filipino Town neighborhood. It’s a mushy good time—you know you like mushy foods. We all do. And the Puffs part, what does that mean? Tune in to find out. Phan talks about P+P’s journey from farmer’s market pop-up to breakout hit restaurant and how her time working in Denmark shaped her vision as a chef. Also on the show chef Daniel Holzman answers my burning food question: Why is Etxebarri the most important grill restaurant in the world? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Listener, subscriber: This is a good one. Pete Wells is the longtime restaurant critic at the New York Times and a man of slight mystery and sound judgment—or bad taste, if you ask some of the chefs he’s goose-egged during his prodigious reviewing career. Before being named critic in 2011, he was an editor at Details and Food & Wine, and we talk about the process of writing the review week after week—and how he thinks like an editor with weekly writing. I also ask him: What should the next New York City mayor do to help improve safety and financial stability for the city’s restaurants? The situation is pretty apocalyptic, and his answers are really interesting. And Pete gives his hot takes on the dollar slice, barbecue, and Mexican food in New York. Oh yeah, about the illustration? There’s a story for that too. Also on the show, Anna interviews Charlene Johnson-Hadley, executive chef of the Brownsville Community Culinary Center, a culinary training program that educates and inspires participants to excel in the food-service industry. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Nicole Rucker is a star baker and the co-owner of Los Angeles restaurant Fiona. She’s also competed in national pie-making competitions and will publish her first cookbook about fruit pastry in the fall. And she’s simply a pleasure to speak with: She’s honest, she’s articulate, and she’s got some amazingly honest thoughts about running a restaurant and the buildup to her recent review in the Los Angeles Times. “Tacos are a public service,” she says, wisely, of the city’s most iconic foodstuff, comparing it to the slice in NYC. “I’m not a taco head, because I grew up with it. They are like cereal to me.” So yes, tacos are discussed as well. Also on the show, Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman gives her advice on transforming a couple of cans of tuna into an exciting dinner. We challenged Deb Perelman, and she very much delivered. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Ivan Orkin story has been well documented. In summary—and you can read it in the excellent memoir-cookbook he wrote with Lucky Peach editor Chris Ying, or stream it on Orkin’s also excellent episode of Chef’s Table—ebullient white man lives in Japan, makes magic with ramen, stays humble, works hard; the crowds and critics and media swarm. In this episode of the TASTE Podcast, we catch up with Orkin to tell the story of how he first brought his unique style of ramen to America, through a legendary pop-up at Momofuku Noodle Bar in 2012. We also hear about his popular restaurants in America, including a new slice shop. Also on the show, Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman plays the game F, Marry, Kill: Sandwich edition. Grilled cheese, corned beef, pb&j? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Laurie Woolever is a fresh and highly original voice in the food writing game. She’s a journalist—having worked as an editor at Art Culinaire and Wine Spectator—and was Anthony Bourdain’s longtime assistant. On this episode we talk to Woolever about the two Bourdain book projects she is busy working on and a story she wrote for TASTE about cooking the whole damn heart. She also talks about Carbface, the podcast she does with Chris Thornton (aka Shit Food Blogger). And finally, we get her take on a variety of random topics that only Laurie can respond to. Pigs in a blanket, grocery-store ham, and the idea of the “poor man’s recipe.” Also on the show we have Ryan Angulo and Doug Crowell, the duo behind the new cookbook Salt & Kindness. They talk about their popular Brooklyn restaurants, Buttermilk Channel and French Louie, and about that one night a certain very famous couple (coughBey and Jay) celebrated New Year’s Eve in their restaurant. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

What a treat! Today on the show we have Meredith Erickson. She’s a journalist, cookbook writer, cycling fan, and the co-author of the new book Joe Beef: Surviving the Apocalypse. We talk about her many chef collaborations—she compares her writing style to that of creating a mixtape—and discuss a big project she’s been working on for years: documenting the foods of the Alps. Erickson also chats about splitting time between Milan and Montreal, which is just about the best way to split time. Also on the show we have Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman answering a reader question: What’s something that you know how to cook now that you wished you could cook in college? The answer is really great. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

While the name Zabar is most associated with a delicatessen empire based on New York’s Upper West Side, it’s Eli Zabar (the punk rock Zabar of all in the Zabar clan) who has the most interesting story to tell. He founded one of NYC’s first specialty food stores in 1973, introducing the city to exotic imports like balsamic vinegar and fraises des bois shipped in from France. And he’s sharpened his bread-baking skills through thousands and thousands of loaves. Eli Zabar is low-key one of the city’s finest bread bakers. On this episode I interview him about his earliest memories of smoked fish, the changing landscape of the grocery business, and what it’s like running a restaurant and bakery with his son Oliver. Later on the episode, Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman answers a reader question: If you could take a cooking class to learn about anything in the food world, what would it be? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Helen Rosner is a journalist, Twitter commentator, and the editorial force behind much of the New Yorker’s food coverage. This year, we were treated with her writing about iceberg lettuce, fermenting blueberries with René Redzepi, a visit to an MSG factory in Japan, and a method for preparing chicken that involves a hair dryer. I sat down with Helen to talk about her work, and to look back at some of the highlights of 2018 in food writing, cookbooks, and Twitter outrage. Also on this episode, Anna spoke to Josh Gee, the writer behind the food-focused newsletter Snack Cart. They caught up about some of the best restaurant reviews of the year, and speculated a little bit about how food writing might evolve in 2019. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Before he edited Epicurious, sharply reviewed restaurants in Chicago, and wrote a cool new cookbook, Cook90: The 30-Day Plan for Faster, Healthier, Happier Meals, David Tamarkin worked as a story producer on the first incarnation of Queer Eye. David is an interesting dude! In this fun interview we discuss what it means to cook 90 meals over a 30-day period—and how this Herculean-sounding task is actually quite doable and offers several lasting benefits to the home cook—as well discussing some of the popular (and controversial) recipes he’s published on Epi this year. Does a sheet-pan pancake make you happy? Mad? Also on the show, Tatiana sits down with Diane Chang—a caterer and private chef behind the incredibly cool company Eating Po Pos. Diane talks about what inspires her cooking, from Filipino desserts to dehydrated fruits. And about her time cooking for Gwyneth Paltrow. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dirt Candy is a restaurant that has become famous over the course of the past decade on New York’s Lower East Side for making eggplant tiramisu, rosemary cotton candy, and tomato fruit leather. But its chef Amanda Cohen makes one thing very clear—it’s not about vegetarianism or health or politics. It’s just about making vegetables taste really good. On this episode, we talk to Amanda about what’s changed over the years—especially as Dirt Candy has rolled out their tasting menu full of tricks, surprises, and, yes, even table-side flames. We also talked about the changing landscape of restaurant review coverage, and why restaurant critics in 2018 have a responsibility to tell a story that goes beyond the food. Later on the episode, we ask Smitten Kitchen’s Deb Perelman about her go-to dessert to bring to parties. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Maybe you’ve been making macarons your whole life, could temper chocolate with your eyes closed, and have enough cake pans to fill a walk-in closet. But maybe, more realistically, you’re like the rest of us who love cake, have no idea what mousseline is, and are still fuzzy on the difference between cocoa and Dutch process cocoa. No matter which of these categories you fall into, Rose Levy Beranbaum’s books are written for you. Beranbaum’s books, like The Pie and Pastry Bible, The Cake Bible, and her newest, Rose’s Baking Basics, cover classic techniques and pastries with scrupulously detailed instructions. Nothing’s dumbed down, and everything is photographed. Anna talks to Beranbaum, along with her longtime collaborator and coauthor Woody Wolston, about how baking has changed over the decades. Hint: Egg yolks are getting smaller, and people are buying more kitchen scales. Later on the episode, Matt talks to author and artist Timothy Pakron about growing up in the South and the inspiration for his new book, Mississippi Vegan. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The chef and cookbook author Anita Lo occupies a very special place in the hearts of many in the New York City restaurant world—chefs, journalists, civilians who merely dine at restaurants (that is, most people). Lo is a supreme talent, having run one of the city’s top restaurants—Annisa—for 17 years. She’s also a mentor to many in the industry. A leading light and an example of how to do things the right way. Stories of this journey, as well as some pretty cool recipes, are detailed in her new cookbook—Solo: A Modern Cookbook for a Party of One—disguised as a personal history. It's memoir light. During our interview at Books Are Magic, we talk about some of the recent controversies in the world of food, and her take on “the boys” and how there’s a clear double standard when it comes to business opportunities, etc. Lo also talks about the joy of cooking for one. Later we get to talk with Matt Startwell, managing partner at legendary New York City cookbook store Kitchen Arts & Letters. We tackle a number of fun topics: the shop's famous customers, like James Beard and Julia Child; the most requested books; books he thinks need to be published; and a rundown of the big books from the busy holiday season. Have you picked up a cookbook today? This episode is sponsored by Joule by ChefSteps. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Let’s just not dwell on the fact that Flynn McGarry is only 20. He’s young. The end. This is because McGarry, the chef and owner of the ambitious and well-reviewed New York City tasting-menu restaurant Gem, is an incredibly talented dude. Period. This is a really fascinating conversation, one that surprised us in many ways. We go over his time working in Los Angeles restaurant Alma at age 13—while being homeschooled—and his famous pop-ups even earlier in his career. “My formative years were spent in some of the most stressful environments,” McGarry admits. The journey is all documented in a new film, Chef Flynn, and we get into McGarry’s many travels and eventual opening in NYC—the most competitive and ruthlessly cutthroat restaurant city in America. There’s a fearlessness in McGarry that’s extraordinary. Also on this episode, we get to catch up with Steven Hall, a longtime NYC restaurant publicist and consultant. He tells some old war stories about NYC dining in the 1980s (he almost poisoned Mike Nichols) and details his work with many of the city’s best Japanese restaurants. We also rate the current roster of New York City restaurant critics: Pete Wells, Hannah Goldfield, Adam Platt, Ligaya Mishan. This episode is sponsored by Joule by ChefSteps. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

If there’s one thing Naomi Pomeroy has noticed in her years of cooking and running restaurants, it’s that people don’t seem to have time to eat anymore. Whether it’s the traffic in Portland, Oregon, where she is a restaurateur, or whether we’ve all just subconsciously sped up over time, it’s getting harder and harder to convince people to settle in for a leisurely several-hour-long dinner. This hasn’t stopped her from serving a six-course tasting menu at Beast, the restaurant she’s owned for more than 10 years, or from serving leisurely drinks and snacks (like her famous take on James Beard’s raw-onion sandwich) at Expatriate, the restaurant across the street. But slowing down and enjoying things is important to her, whether it’s the meals she eats with her kitchen staff or the time she spends on floral design at her new plant shop, Colibri. On this episode, we talked about what’s changed in Portland since she opened her first restaurant, what’s changing in restaurant work culture, and what cooking and flowers have in common. Also on the episode, Matt talks to chef Daniel Holzman as part of their ongoing series, 100 Questions for My Friend the Chef. This week, they’re talking about the virtues of homemade hummus. This episode is sponsored by Joule by ChefSteps. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

As Max Ng tells it, his start at Momofuku—where he has risen to executive chef at the restaurant group’s New York City flagship, Ssam Bar—began when he showed up, as a young CIA student, with a backpack, knives, and a chef coat. Unannounced. On a busy Saturday afternoon. Asking for a “trail”—restaurant parlance for an unpaid tryout. “Whoa, whoa, whoa, slow down, this is a fucking Saturday and you are demanding a trail,” Max, laughing, recalls a cook telling him. “Come back in a week.” Ng did return, and has never left, and I wanted to talk to him this week about his experience working for David Chang and his time living in the United States far from his home in Singapore. It was so good to get to know this rising star in the chef world. Also on the show we have the editors of influential coffee blog Sprudge, Zachary Carlsen and Jordan Michelman. During a live taping at the Counter Culture Training Center in New York, they discuss their new book, The New Rules of Coffee. This episode is sponsored by Joule by ChefSteps. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

London chef and author Yotam Ottolenghi puts out cookbooks that meet at the intersection of cool and practical—with a recipe development process that is part Warhol Factory, part Bon Appétit Test Kitchen, and pure Ottolenghi. After tackling baking with his last book (Sweet), and before that putting Israeli cooking on the international stage (Jerusalem), he most recently tackled the concept of simplicity—and how Simple (the book’s title and mission statement) means something different to all home cooks. You mean a 30-minute simple meal isn’t exactly simple for everybody single person attempting to make it? What a notion! Also on this episode, we speak with Sarah Gavigan, the talented chef and author of a new cookbook: Ramen Otaku. The book promises to guide readers through the totally worthwhile process of making bowls of ramen at home. The pressure cooker is your friend! It’s a great read. This episode is sponsored by Joule by ChefSteps. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices