The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 2 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Go Hard session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ https://youtu.be/RQtii8MxjkQ WATCH PART ONE➡️ https://youtu.be/T_O80plomTY FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/try-hard-yt ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove MUSIC: "Faster Does It" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Mining By Moonlight" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/

Like it or not, grades are a part of climbing, and I've recently been exploring how to have a good relationship with them. In that exploration, I've decided on a range that I believe any given grade represents. But to stress test that range, I wanted to talk to someone who is an above average climber with an above average resume, spends a considerable amount of time thinking about this subject, AND who ISN’T the height of an average male like I am. One person really stood above the others – pun intended. Juliet Hammer. She’s a coach, crusher, has been doing experiments concerning indoor grades and working on a resource for how to engage with grades. And she’s just shy of 5 feet tall. Perfect. Check Out Juliet's Course Beyond Grades Juliet on YouTube Watch My Grade Videos Subscribe To The Current

➡️ WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE ➡️ FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT ➡️ ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE ➡️ TAKE THE GUESSWORK OUT OF TRAINING Most "simple" training plans are actually fairly complicated when compared to the basics of how to improve at climbing. But they don't need to be. This might be the simplest - and still effective - training plan for climbers of pretty much all levels.

When climbers work a project, the process often goes straight from beta discovery to dialing in microbeta. This isn't wrong, but might be missing some important pieces. Watch it on YouTube ➡️ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE ➡️MONTHLY CLIMBING THOUGHTS IN YOUR INBOX Music Used: "Brandenburg Concerto No. 4 in G, Movement I (Allegro), BWV 1049" "Bass Vibes" "Bass Walker" "Rollin at 5" "String Impromptu Number 1" From: Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ DISCLAIMER: Climbing and training for climbing is inherently dangerous. Anything you do is at your own risk and Power Company Climbing and our coaches takes no responsibility.

Watch it on YouTube ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/try-hard-yt MONTHLY CLIMBING THOUGHTS IN YOUR INBOX ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytcurrent This is by far the most common movement error I see made by advanced climbers, and is one of the biggest differences between advanced and elite climbers.

Watch this on YouTube. We're regularly told that chasing grades in climbing is bad, but what does it even mean? Is it actually all that negative? Or is there a more nuanced take that makes more sense in reality? ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove BE FIRST TO KNOW ABOUT GOALS AND TACTICS TOOLKITS ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytcurrent

WATCH THIS ON YOUTUBE FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/try-hard-yt ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove When your partner claims a hold is a jug and you KNOW that it isn't, is it possible that you're both wrong? And both right? Science says that is common, and it has big implications for how we consider climbing grades and how we think about progress. Music is: "Marty Gots a Plan" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Sneaky Adventure" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ "Harlequin" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ DISCLAIMER: Climbing and training for climbing is inherently dangerous. Anything you do is at your own risk and Power Company Climbing and our coaches takes no responsibility.

There's no shortage of debate about the climbing grade scales, but one simple perspective shift can solve many of the issues you might have. Watch it on YouTube. ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/try-hard-yt _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Lee Cujes | Is It Really A Plateau? REMIX: FAILURE _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. MUSIC USED: Investigations by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/

The climbing grade pyramid is old, outdated, and maybe actually right on the money. In this episode we reexamine it and find a new way to see climbing grades that might just be a boost to your progression. ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/ytmove FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/try-hard-yt _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Lee Cujes | Is It Really A Plateau? REMIX: FAILURE _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. MUSIC USED: Investigations by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Covert Affair - Film Noire by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Backed Vibes Clean - Rollin at 5 by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Bass Walker - Film Noir by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/

Switching back and forth between sport climbing and bouldering can be difficult, and it's not simply because of strength and power or endurance. It's not about ropes versus pads. The reason is a little more hidden, but simple to address... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! Going from bouldering to sport climbing? Watch THIS next! Going from sport climbing to bouldering? Watch THIS next! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Get the FREE Try Harder Toolkit! Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part of the Alex Megos lore is: "There are no bad conditions, only weakness." We all knew it wasn't true, and even Alex came clean to me about it, but he may have actually been right – at least when it comes to progression. Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's Written In Stone | Hubble vs. Action Directe: The World’s First 14d (9a) REMIX | PROCESS Alex Megos & Ken Etzel | Rotpunkt _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

With the popularity of physical training, it's easy to overlook the fact that without the necessary shifts in mindset, we are rarely in a position to take advantage of what we're physically capable of. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the shifts they had to make in order to climb their first V10 boulders. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Get the free Try Harder Toolkit Board Meetings | Better Working Goes: How To Send Faster Board Meetings | Can Everyone Climb V10? Board Meetings | Bouldering Tactics _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Learn more about The Climbing Academy! While things like finger strength, power, and technique are incredibly important for climbing harder, partners have the potential to make or break nearly every performance. What's more, there are a few surprising aspects about being a good partner that we might not be considering – aspects that have the power to supercharge a partnership. In this episode, Kris talks with coach Kyle O'Meara and alumni Sylvie Cressman about their time at The Climbing Academy, and what they learned about the importance of being both selfish and selfless. Get the FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! Learn more about The Climbing Academy! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Intentional Mentorship with Kyle O'Meara Board Meetings | How to Climb and Train Effectively with Different Level Climbers The Coach/Climber Dynamic with Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel Being Good Climbing Partners with Scott Pagel and Tyler Algeo Mentorship with Dru Mack and Lee Smith _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Get the FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT From the very beginning of trying to improve at climbing, we’re told one thing: Work on your weaknesses. I’ve probably said this a million times myself. But I’ve also paid attention to what happens as a result of that type of instruction. And what happens is: we end up in this constant cycle of trying to determine what our weaknesses are and fix them. But there's a big problem with this line of thinking... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement The Two Biggest Barriers to Sending Hard Climbs Board Meetings | Is It a Weakness or Is It Just Hard? Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Get the FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT Years ago I was working on what would turn out to be my longest-ever project, Swingline, the first 13d I’d ever tried. I had spent parts of several seasons on it, my fitness was at an all-time high, and I had done all of the obvious links. But I couldn’t break through. The only thing left to do was send, but it just wasn’t happening. I wasn’t being honest. I was telling myself a story – like we all do – and that story is often false. So I finally asked myself the question... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Lee Cujes | Is It Really A Plateau? REMIX: FAILURE _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Get the FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT Employing good tactics is something all climbers should do, but there is a point at which continuing a tactical approach can slow your climbing gains. That is, unless you make sure you don't skip this step... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Try Harder Toolkit The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Taped Tips | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Get the FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT In my coaching and consultations with climbers, it’s become pretty obvious that there are common bouldering grade plateaus at around V4, V6 or 7, and V9 or 10, and that the vast majority of stuck boulderers fall into these three ranges. There is a single, relatively small skillset that can help climbers break through these common bouldering grade plateaus – or even avoid them altogether. And it's a skill you're often rewarded for AVOIDING in the gym... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! ANALYZE AND IMPROVE YOUR MOVEMENT ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/podmove _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s Bouldering Tactics 101: The Power Spot Bouldering Tactics 101: Overlapping Links The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

After working with thousands of sport climbers, I’ve noticed a pattern of climbers getting stuck at around 11c, then 12b, and again at 13a. One of the hallmarks of routes at these grade bottlenecks is that it gets harder to find stable positions. The climber who hopes to move further will need to be comfortable in that instability. And while it's tempting to think that getting stronger is always the answer, in reality it’s only part of the equation... ANALYZE AND IMPROVE YOUR MOVEMENT ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/podmove Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Lee Cujes | Is It Really A Plateau? The Most Important Skill for Climbing 5.13 REMIX: FAILURE _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Have you ever tried a hard climb or a hard move and immediately said, “I just need to get stronger,” but then a few attempts later you just do the thing? Did you somehow magically get stronger in those few attempts? No, of course not. A lot of things could have happened in those few attempts, but what didn’t happen is you gaining strength. We should know better than to use, “I just need to get stronger,” as an excuse to quit, but it keeps happening... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution The Most Important Skill for Climbing 5.13 REMIX: FAILURE REMIX: EFFORT _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

When it comes to putting effort into climbing, there are 3 types of climber. All can be effective, but one type is ALWAYS better. Which are you? Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Try Harder Toolkit Metrics for Climbers | Strength and Endurance Standards How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Taped Tips | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Get the FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT Not all training needs to be indoors. If you're lucky enough to be able to spend a large amount of your time outside, it might make sense to use some of that time for training rather than performance. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss examples of how we can do this without sacrificing our performance time. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Patron Question: Climbing Improvement and Training vs. Performance in the Same Environment Board Meetings | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors Board Meetings | Indoor Climbing Lessons That You Should Take Outdoors _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Toe-hooking is a technique that is very often misunderstood in two principal ways. This confusion leads to toe hooks seeming harder and more like sorcery than other techniques. But you’re probably just going about it the wrong way. Most people don’t need to get stronger. They need to get better. They need a better understanding of the move itself... ANALYZE AND IMPROVE YOUR MOVEMENT ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/podmove Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement FOCUS | Q & A Part 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Taped Tips | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

When I finished my 100th 5.13 sport climb and was writing a book about the lessons I learned along the way, something became clear to me. There is one single skill that trumps all others when it comes to being able to climb 5.13. It’s not better footwork, it’s not a stronger pull-up, and it’s not more finger strength. Those things can – and often do – play a big part. But if you don’t have this one skill dialed in, those things may be rendered nearly useless... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing REMIX: EFFORT _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The length of time we spend working a project often depends on the strength of our projecting game – particularly what we do on those important working attempts. Many of us either keep working things when we should have sent weeks ago, or we cut off the working goes and start redpoint attempts way too early. The best climbers put themselves into send position with fewer working attempts, and know when they are ready to get it done. So the question is: How can we make better use of our working goes and send hard things faster? _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution The Projecting Strategy Most Climbers Never Learn Board Meetings | Top 3 Redpoint Tactics REMIX | PROCESS _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00) Intro (01:47) What is a Working Go? (09:24) First Steps for a Good Working Go (13:18) Notes, Tips, and Tricks for Easier Clips (20:45) Intention, Nuance, and Attention to Detail (29:22) Hoping To Get Lucky (32:30) Not Enough Attempts (34:18) Avoiding the Questions (36:10) Trying To Do Too Many Things (39:46) Cues and Intuition (43:23) Never Improving the Process (53:07) Punt Prevention

There's one simple thing that can result in the biggest performance gains in your climbing, no matter what level you’re at. And you can implement it right now. I’m going to tell you not only what this simple superpower is, but also what the sports research says about how you can give it an even greater boost... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement The Projecting Strategy Most Climbers Never Learn Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution REMIX | EFFORT _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training. This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now! Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics Board Meetings | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be? Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be. Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed. This episode originally aired on March 22, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now! Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize? There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know when to do which? This episode originally aired on March 21, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now! Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower. Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future climbing? This episode originally aired on March 20, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now! Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing. So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing? This episode originally aired on March 19, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now! Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c. They discuss: Pushing grades in the 80's. The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit. The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger. The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's. The benefits of friendly competition at the crag. The first actual comps. Tribout playing the villain. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

An update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's. Check out the new book!

Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners. Check out all of Joy's courses. Sign up for Joy's newsletter. Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout! Get on the waitlist for The Postpartum Project training. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Sport Climber Experiences of Pregnancy and Return-to-Sport Postpartum Research Study Survey Teal Dreher’s Pregnancy & Postpartum Climbing blog Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West Beth Rodden | Climbing and Parenting Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Intro (00:02:05) How Joy Found this Niche (00:16:37) Empowerment and Vulnerability (00:31:31) Joy’s Overarching Philosophy (00:38:55) Disclaimers and Contraindications (00:41:48) First Trimester (00:44:07) ANNOTATION: Evidence Based vs. Evidence Informed (01:01:13) ANNOTATION: Beta for the Bump (01:10:50) Second Trimester (01:19:50) ANNOTATION: Diastasis, Deep Core, Linea Alba (01:36:23) Third Trimester (01:58:34) Wrap Up (02:04:48) Outro

This is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys with vision loss and how climbing – the sport, and the community – provides support. We begin the conversation with each of them explaining their sight loss and their relationship to climbing. Follow EBC on Instagram. Follow Justin on Instagram. Follow Seneida on Instagram. Follow Chaz on Instagram. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training. In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the details of the two seasons where they saw big progress, including how getting bit by a bat while on route might just give you superpowers. Find Lucia and Noah online at Beta Addicts. Follow Lucia and Noah on Instagram. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Tyler Algeo and Scott Pagel | Being Good Climbing Partners REMIX: EFFORT The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber Ebook Training Plans The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Intro (00:01:34) Meeting Noah and Lucia (00:10:39) Goals and Choosing a Plan (00:20:34) Fitting Training Into Life (00:29:39) How Did the Training Go? (00:36:07) Did Anything Surprise You? (00:42:42) How Much Do You Get Outside? (00:49:35) How Did the Training Show Up? (00:53:39) Fall Season After Training (00:58:15) Bit by a Bat on Route (01:06:10) Spring Season After Training (01:23:05) Wrap Up

Kris and Nate decide on their favorite movie theater candy and then watch Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top, released by Mammut. They discuss the film and the takeaways from it that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Film Credits: Yucca Films Online Climbing Films from the 1990s More Movie Night episodes _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed. Film Credits: Director: Ryan White DP: Ryan White + Marco Zanone Photography: Ryan White Music: Dubspeeka + Thimble _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's episode, which comes to us from Every Body Climbs, features Melissa Ruiz. Melissa has been climbing and competing for about 6 years. She’s got a collection of medals to her name, including five gold, from national and world paraclimbing championships/cups. But recently she's started climbing outside, and to put it lightly, she is stoked. So, this October (2024) she'll be teaching an aid climbing workshop at the Adaptive Climbers Fest in the Red River Gorge. Aid climbing is part of how Melissa has been able to access outdoor climbing with her disability, which is cerebral palsy. We pick up the conversation as she's explaining her condition and throughout the episode we talk about the importance of core strength, the joy of outdoor climbing, and what grades really mean. Follow Melissa on Instagram. Follow EBC on Instagram. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Of all of the elements of climbing movement, Rhythm is the most overlooked. What's more, it's often the reason we fall, even if it appears to be something different. Learn how to spot when Rhythm is a problem and how you can get better at making sure Rhythm isn't holding you back. Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! Check out The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Our Movement Practice Resource Page _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell Editor David Fitzgerald Director of Photography Eric Bissell Executive Producers Alex Lowther, Justin Roth, Kristo Torgersen Producer Monika McClure Additional Photography Owen Bissell, Spenser Tang-Smith Color Royal Muster/Greg Reese Graphics Ben Blanchard Sound Design and Mix David Fitzgerald _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris and Nate sit down to watch the new climbing film Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi, and then discuss the film itself, as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Three years ago, Simon Lorenzi climbed the first ascent of the second 9a boulder in the world. This is that story. Produced, directed, filmed, and edited by Gilles Charlier. Watch the film. _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Nate and Ravioli Biceps have been friends for more than 15 years, since long before Ravioli became the reigning king of the Moonboard. In this conversation, they discuss the myriad of lessons they pull from video gaming that can help inform our life and climbing. Get some Ravioli Biceps merch. Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram and YouTube. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Check out our NEW Atomic Elements Movement Course. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Ravioli Biceps | Moonboard Benchmarking Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing Board Meetings | How To Make the Most of a Board Session _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Improving climbing movement is challenging. Understanding what you most need to improve is even more challenging. The discussions around climbing technique have always been either extremely abstract or specific to a single move on a single climb. It doesn't have to be that way. Check out the new course and movement evaluation tool: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Watch the video of Kris failing to commit. Read more and see the video for this episode on the blog. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Allyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community. Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025, this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover how families address logistical challenges, issues like postpartum recovery, and more – topics rarely explored in climbing media. Learn more about Hand Holds. Support the project through Seed & Spark. Support the project through The Gotham Film & Media Institute. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Climbing and Parenting with Beth Rodden Raising Them Right with Constance Lightner Mental Toughness with Emily Tilden Meghan Baker is a Not So Average Jane Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Theme (0:36) Introduction (1:40) Guest Introduction (3:32) Hand Holds Name Origin (8:48) Parenting for the Second Time (14:35) Modeling Passion (19:16) What is Hand Holds? (28:13) Who will be profiled? (30:18) Goals for Hand Holds (48:03) Where will it be? How can we help? (53:05) Wrap Up (54:34) Theme

Fallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She’s spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching. In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their experience using mindset and mental performance techniques, like working on fear of falling, and analyzing movement and technique with video feedback and visualization.” Host Emily Chen-Newton and Fallon share a genetic collagen disorder (Ehlers-Danlos syndrome). In this conversation they talk how this condition impacts their climbing – and how Fallon coached Emily through some of these issues. Fallon also has a condition called, POTS which you'll hear mentioned in this episode. It's a dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system. Things that should be “automatic go haywire”, she says. So, her body doesn't properly regulate things like blood pressure, heart rate and temperature. Fallon’s main symptom is lightheadedness or pre-syncope (the feeling you get before you faint). Fallon is also a rock-climbing guide and teaches courses on trad climbing, anchor building, and more. She is sponsored by The Desert Rat, Cypher Climbing, HILX Eyewear, and Crux Power. Her education as a geologist gives her a deep connection to nature, and she loves playing the fiddle, shooting pool, wandering the desert, writing and photographing climbing. We start this episode with Fallon talking about a recent time when she was digging into some of those "non climbing" hobbies as she was recovering from a tendon tweak. BUT, as she tells us, this injury hit differently than others in the past -- in a good way. *While Fallon Rowe and host Emily both discuss their medical conditions and how they’ve learned to live with them, this content is not, and does not replace medical advice. Fallon can be reached on Instagram @fallonclimbs or on her website. Aug 2-4th workshop How to climb with hEDS Climbing with POTS What is hEDS? What is POTS? Follow Emily and EBC on: Instagram SoundCloud Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78 _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Finger Strength Resource Page Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol? Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance? _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation (20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs (22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout (28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs (33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session) (38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall (44:07) 6:10 Repeaters (56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs (1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each (1:08:43) Outro

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10) The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00) Intro (03:06) Finding the Best Beta (09:12) Strength vs. Movement (09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks (11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks (18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks (22:07) How to Know You’re Improving (27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement (28:58) How to Know What to Work On (31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm (36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves (41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip (43:46) False Start Hover Drill (48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing (51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards (55:11) Outro