The Jewelry District

Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates talk with Holly Wesche, owner of Wesche Jewelers.

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the Tucson gem shows, Kering's sale of two watch brands, small diamonds, and Rob’s new book.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Emily Stoehrer, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about Ben Bridge and Pandora, the Tucson shows, and predictions for 2022.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob talk about how 2021 was a good year for the jewelry industry.09:15 Seattle-based Ben Bridge is divesting from Pandora, and Rob explains what that means for the franchise.13:16 Rob and Victoria discuss where the ownership of Robbins Brothers, another West Coast company, lies.17:16 Victoria is excited to go to the Tucson gem shows.21:35 Victoria recounts her article interviewing 22 people’s predictions on the jewelry and watch industry in 2022.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapSparkling SalesAfter talking about how the pandemic is going, Victoria mentions a 2021 “December to Remember” email she got from Abe Sherman, CEO of the Buyers Intelligence Group, reviewing just how good jewelry sales were across the industry. Rob and Victoria marvel over how successful the jewelry industry has been and how the jewelry market is potentially bigger than anyone expected. The question remains: How do we make this last?Ben Bridge and PandoraRob talks about Ben Bridge’s decision to sell its 37 Pandora franchise stores back to Pandora. These 37 stores comprise most of the Pandora stores on the West Coast. Pandora has gone back and forth between wanting to control its own stores and letting other brands control its sales. Rob then explores how he thinks Ben Bridge might grow in the future.Robbins BrothersRob briefly talks about another West Coast jeweler, Robbins Brothers, a 15-store chain owned by private equity, which has put together a new management-led buyout.The Tucson Gem ShowsVictoria is going to Tucson for the gem shows! Centurion is opening at a new location this month. She spoke to Howard Hauben, the organizer of Centurion, and he says they’re moving full steam ahead. The Tucson shows are as well. Victoria notes there will be supply constraints and prices rising on quality goods. The pearl market is also constrained due to the lack of harvest. A piece of advice? If you like something, buy it. Prices are expected to rise, so you’re going to want to grab what you can while you can.2022 PredictionsRob is hopeful that in March we’ll be able to have a nice 24 Karat Weekend. Victoria notes the Gem Awards have a really great roster as well. Thinking about this year and what to expect, Victoria recalls her article interviewing 22 people across the jewelry industry answering the question: “What is your boldest prediction for the jewelry and watch industry in 2022?” She says their answers were mostly positive, but there was a belief that people would be judged by their actions, meaning that you can no longer just boast about your values. You now must show how your business is aligning with them.

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Alexis Padis, president of San Francisco–based Padis Jewelry.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates make predictions for 2022 and some New Year's resolutions.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates look back and reflect on the past year.

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Scott Lachut, partner and president of research and strategy at PSFK.

Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates talk about sustainability in the industry, holiday predictions, and a new De Beers ad campaign.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers.

JCK's Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates talk about sustainability in watches, the HardRock Summit, and the Pandora Papers.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk to guest Sean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile. They'll discuss how Sean got into the jewelry industry, how Blue Nile has done during the pandemic, the De Beers Ten/Ten campaign, and expectations for the upcoming holiday season.Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce their guest, Sean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile.7:40 Sean explains how he got into the jewelry industry after jumping around and working in several different industries.13:36 Blue Nile did well during the pandemic. Hear how.17:38 Victoria asks Sean about Blue Nile’s social presence.19:20 Sean explains the success of the De Beers Ten/Ten Campaign that Blue Nile took part in.20:56 Sean talks about Lightbox, Brilliant Earth going public, and his holiday expectations.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapIntroducing Sean KellAt the time of this recording, Victoria had just gotten back from Denver, where she'd been attending the Hard Rock Summit; she said the show was fantastic and that she promises to chat about it at a later date. Rob and Victoria then introduce their guest: Sean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile, who is calling in from just outside of Seattle. Sean says it feels like things in the jewelry industry are finally returning to normal. He also expresses his love for Blue Nile and how much he enjoys working there.How Sean Got Into the IndustryBlue Nile has 13 showrooms, with 5 more opening later this year. Ultimately, the company plans to have 40 more showrooms across the country. Sean says Blue Nile is looking at expanding into colored stones and men’s jewelry. He then explains what attracted him to the jewelry industry in the first place: its size, and its difficulty for consumers to figure it out and how it's difficult for consumers to figure it out—he wants to change the industry to be a little more convenient or shoppers. Blue Nile originally operated solely on the web, but it has since opened brick-and-mortar stores to meet customers where they want to be met.Blue Nile During the PandemicBack in 2020, Blue Nile’s showrooms were closed for a time. But since the brand was already established as an online company, it didn’t have much trouble during that transition period. Sean says Blue Nile has seen terrific growth, and it continues to enjoy that growth as the country opens back up and it opens new showrooms. Earlier in the pandemic, Blue Nile also offered virtual appointments, which it continues to do. It uses actual studios for its one-on-one sessions, and the personal jewelers have multiple cameras to provide an immersive experience, similar to one in a brick-and-mortar store.Blue Nile’s Social PresenceVictoria asks about social media. Sean says Blue Nile has fully embraced Instagram in the United States. He also talks about social media platforms in China, which are even more important to the Chinese consumer than Instagram and Facebook are to the American shopper. While Blue Nile hasn't started doing virtual appointments on Instagram, it's working hard on its video and phone business.De Beers and the Ten/Ten CampaignVictoria asks about Blue Nile's teaming with De Beers and 10 independent designers in 2020 for a design collaboration called Ten/Ten. The designers created limited-edition engagement rings featuring center stones all sourced from De Beers' mines in Botswana. Sean discusses the success of that partnership. A hundred rings were created in total, and the program highlighted 10 wonderful designers—all women—and the beauty of natural diamonds in center stone engagement rings.Lightbox and Natural Diamonds, Brilliant Earth, and the HolidaysRob asks about Lightbox, and Sean says Blue Nile’s partnership with De Beers and Lightbox has been a good way for the company to test the waters of lab-grown diamonds. Blue Nile continues to sell only natural diamonds in its center stone engagement rings, and its customers are mainly looking for natural diamonds. Rob also mentions that one of Blue Nile’s competitors, Brilliant Earth, is going public, and Sean answers the question of whether he sees that happening for Blue Nile any time soon. Victoria asks if Blue Nile is seeing any bottlenecks in the shipping capacity for holiday sales. Sean says Blue Nile is expecting its largest holiday season.(Photo courtesy of Sean Kell)

Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates talk about their impressions of the JCK Show.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Kate Youngstrom, vice president of brand and content marketing for RX Global. They talk about all things JCK Show—from its safety measures to its social and education events. Show Notes 00:53 Victoria and Rob introduce today’s guest, Kate Youngstrom, vice president of brand and content marketing for RX Global.05:54 Kate goes over all the safety measures taken this year and shares where you can find more information.08:30 There are plenty of social and networking events at this year’s show. Kate tells the JCK editors about just a few of them.12:12 What’s new this year in the education programs.15:39 Kate talks all about Jewelers Source and the perks of having JCK Pro. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Kate YoungstromVictoria is getting ready to head off to the JCK Show, flying from Burbank, Calif., to Las Vegas, and she’s so excited to see all her friends there. Rob is also excited. Their guest on today’s podcast, Kate Youngstrom, vice president of brand and content marketing for RX Global, will also be in attendance. She’s joining them today to give listeners some details about the show—which she says is unequivocally happening this year. Luxury opens by invitation only on Tues., Aug. 24 for two and a half days, then will remain open for everyone else Friday through Monday. And attendance looks strong! Safety MeasuresRob asks if people will be able to come from outside of the country to the show, and Kate says interested attendees must follow the rules of their particular country. Safety policies mandate that masks are required, and masks will be offered at the center. But Kate recommends checking out the JCK Show’s website for all of the most up-to-date safety information. Presenters will have the option to wear masks onstage if they want. Social Events and DiningThere are some evening social events planned. For the all-access badge holders in the Luxury community, on Wednesday night there is the fan-favorite Dine Out program featuring 17 restaurants. On Thursday, for those same badge holders there’s an Around the World happy hour taking place between three restaurant bars, with drink tickets available. On Friday evening, the Women's Jewelry Association (WJA) and the American Gem Society Young Titleholders, in partnership with JCK, are holding a happy hour at Sushi Samba. And on Sunday night, the Jewelers for Children (JFC) dinner is taking place in the Venetian Bar. Victoria mentions that on page 130 of the latest issue of JCKmagazine, Matt Villano wrote a piece about all the new places to eat, drink, and see in Vegas. Education ProgramsRob asks about the education programs, which Kate says take place across three days of the show, starting on Friday morning and running through Sunday. They’ll be held on the show floor on the showcase stage. For the first time this year, there will be a few viewing pods on the show floor, where those who don't enough time to go from one place to another can watch livestreams of the education programs. Additionally, there will be two new education activation stations. One, the “Podcast Zone,” will allow attendees to watch podcasters record their podcasts live; the other, the "Content Creation Zone," will show visitors how to really bring a piece of jewelry to life through photography, social media, and emails. Jewelers Source and JCK Pro PerksThis year’s keynote speech will be given on Saturday by the National Retail Federation and will take a look at the past 18 months—where we’ve been, where we’re going, and what we’ve learned. Victoria asks Kate about Jewelers Source, the JCK Marketplace where you can create meetings, source product, and see what the trends are. Kate says that all the content from the JCK Show will be available afterward on the site for JCK Pro users, and that those users will enjoy in-person perks at the show too, such as a dedicated lounge with amenities, and education and networking opportunities.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the new Tiffany campaign, Rolex, and diamond tracking systems. Show Notes00:51 The JCK Show is coming up, and Rob and Victoria excitedly wonder how it will go.05:36 Rob talks about how Tiffany & Co.’s new campaign is ruffling some feathers.11:50 Rolex has increased market share over the course of the pandemic, and the JCK editors talk about the brand.17:46 Alrosa came out with nanotechnology to track its diamonds. Rob explores the technology's applications. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: JCK Show, jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap The JCK Show Victoria and Rob talk a little bit about the JCK Show coming up later this month. They both have been making appointments, and Rob will be on a panel. Victoria thinks this will be a very different Vegas than what we’re used to, but she says it’ll be a very special one as we all come back together for the first time. Not Your Mother's Tiffany Rob recently wrote about Tiffany & Co.’s new campaign, which has been a bit controversial. Some are attributing the company’s new campaign slogan, “Not Your Mother’s Tiffany," to 29-year-old Alexandre Arnault, who oversees the brand’s communications. He’s the son of Bernard Arnault, LMVH chairman. Rob says Alexandre is trying to “hip up” the brand—but wonders if the new campaign is too cheeky. Some mothers are offended by the campaign, as it dates the Tiffany they know. Victoria brings up the Mercedes Benz campaign featuring Janis Joplin that isolated its core consumer but ended up working well for the brand. Rolex, Unsurprisingly, Stays on the Rise Victoria pivots to talking about the watch industry, specifically Rolex. The brand has gained market share over the course of the pandemic. Victoria spoke to a fellow editor in the watch space, who said that other watch companies looking to gain market share shouldn’t compare themselves to Rolex: “We all live on planet watchmaking, but they’re on planet Rolex.” Victoria brings up the brand since Tourneau has recently opened up an adjoining Tudor–Rolex boutique in New York City's Meatpacking District. New Diamond Tracking Technology Rob talks about tracking diamonds through the supply chain. Alrosa just came out with a system that uses nanotechnology, a part of the gems' molecular structure, to track its diamonds. Rob mentions that some people are concerned about hacking and security. However, this technology should be able to bring more transparency to the industry when it comes to origin, traceability, and trackability. But Alrosa’s tracking technology doesn’t just have to be about tracking where diamonds came from. It may also be useful for those wanting to track their diamonds if they happen to be stolen, so there are plenty of uses for this tech.

In This Episode You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Alan Revere, award-winning jewelry designer, author, and founder of the now-closed Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts. Show Notes00:50 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Alan Revere.07:16 Alan got his start with jewelry in Germany, and he explains what he did once he got back to the United States.11:00 Alan tells the JCK editors what the jewelry industry was like back in the ’60s and ’70s.13:04 Alan discloses which jewelers have stuck out to him.15:47 The Revere Academy closed in 2017, and Alan explains his feelings on that time.18:58 Now retired, Alan lets listeners know what he's up to these days. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jcklasvegas.com, jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Alan RevereVictoria and Rob briefly mention this year’s new issue of JCK magazine, which is all about JCK Las Vegas, now taking place in late August. They then introduce their guest, Alan Revere. He is the past president of the American Jewelry Design Council, founder of the Contemporary Design Group, and founder of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco. He’s now retired in Lucas Valley, in Marin, Calif., living in a midcentury modern home. He grew up in Great Neck, N.Y., but trained in Germany. Here he tells the story of how he got involved in the jewelry industry. How Alan Got His StartAlan tells us he dropped a potential career in law for the arts in the ’70s. Victoria asks about what happened when he came back from Germany in 1974 and landed on the West Coast. Alan says he got a job as a bench jeweler in Oakland, Calif.. It was there that he learned how to do repairs, resize rings, fulfill custom orders, and the like. At the California College of the Arts, Alan taught a small class—which eventually led to him teaching from his studio, and then his home. In 1979, he established the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts. Industry Changes in the ’60s and ’70s Rob says we think a lot about how the ’60s and ’70s were a big time for change in arts and design, and asks Alan what school of design he belonged to. Alan says in the ’60s, contemporary jewelry started to come of age, but no one was selling under their own name. By the ’70s, that had all begun to change, when a range of trends began to bloom and jewelers started their own name brands. At that time, Alan says people had more money than they knew what to do with, so it was a better time for buying jewelry. Who Stands OutVictoria asks Alan if he taught CAD at the Revere Academy, and he explains that he did, but seldom. For him, creating jewelry is best when done with your hands. He’s a craftsman who wants to touch the materials—but he recognizes how useful today's technology is. Changing subjects, Victoria asks which of Alan's students have really stood out. Alan says James Binnion, a metaler; Mary-Lee Rae an enamelist; and Dana Bronfman, a newcomer to the space. He also mentions Kirk Bloodsworth, the first convicted inmate to be released because of DNA evidence, who then released a line of jewelry for others who have been exonerated. Though Alan says there is no other academy like his as none are all-encompassing as his was, there are a few he likes. The Closing of the Academy Rob asks Alan how he feels about having closed the Revere Academy in 2017. Alan says he believes that everything happens on time when it’s supposed to. The price of rent for his building exploded. Someone suggested that he sell the academy, but he didn’t want anyone to tarnish something founded in his name, so he decided to finally close its doors four years ago. What Alan Is Up to NowAlan tells us he has a bench in his home, so he’s still making jewelry. He belongs to the American Jewelry Design Council, a group of 30 talented jewelry designers across the country. They make jewelry every year according to a theme. Rob asks Alan about the future of jewelry design—but Alan says that he’s an expert of the past, not the future. Alan then gives fun facts about the history of jewelry. (Photo courtesy of Alan Revere)