The Jewelry District

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Mithun Sacheti, CEO of CaratLane.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest Mithun Sacheti, CEO of CaratLane.07:17 Mithun compares CaratLane to Blue Nile.10:15 Victoria asks about his early business.14:42 Mithun describes his most recent experience at the JCK show.16:09 Mithun talks about Tanishq purchasing majority share of CaratLane.21:00 Rob asks about CaratLane’s brick-and-mortar stores.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, CaratLane.comShow RecapIntroducing Mithun SachetiMithun Sacheti is the CEO of CaratLane, which is often described as the Indian version of Blue Nile. He spoke to JCK from the southeastern coast of India. His mother and father were in the jewelry business, and Mithun describes it as a “generational business,” which is how he got into it himself. Mithun studied at GIA and worked briefly in San Diego. When he returned to India, he opened his own jewelry store.Blue Nile InspirationMithun compares the Indian jewelry business model to the business in the United States. Mithun says he learned from Blue Nile that you have to find the easiest place to enter the industry. In India, while diamonds are fine to sell, its real strong point is selling jewelry as opposed to loose diamonds and engagement rings. In the early days, Mithun describes a hostility similar to what Blue Nile faced in its early days.Building the BusinessVictoria asks how Mithun coaxed people to buy originally, and he said initially consumers were resistant. CaratLane built a try-at-home model in an attempt to get people to buy their diamonds, which ended up being successful. Mithun doesn’t think this model would necessarily work in America.The JCK ShowMithun was just at the most recent JCK show—the first one he attended was back in 1998. Victoria asks for his take on this year’s JCK show, and Mithun said it was all about making connections.TanishqIn 2016, Tanishq purchased a majority share in CaratLane. Tanishq is the largest jewelry company in India and has been around for 25 years now, with a market capitalization close to $1 billion. Mithun says Tanishq has been a great partner, and CaratLane has been able to grow on a much faster scale thanks to its involvement. Victoria asked what other kinds of things CaratLane has tried as a company, and Mithun describes a virtual try-on, different from augmented reality, that didn’t pan out. One thing that worked very well was building an omnichannel network.Brick-and-MortarRob asks why CaratLane believed it needed a brick-and-mortar store when it was successful online. Mithun believes there is a need for tactile jewelry shopping, even though consumers find jewelry online.(Photo courtesy of Mithun Sacheti)

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss former JCK editor-in-chief George Holmes’ legacy, LVMH's investment in Lusix, and Russian diamonds and Ukrainian jewelers.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob remember former JCK editor-in-chief George Holmes13:51 Victoria reports on the state of the industry17:15 Rob reports on LVMH’s investment in Lusix20:03 Victoria and Rob talk about Russian diamonds and Ukrainian jewelersEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapRemembering George HolmesGeorge Holmes, JCK’s former editor-in-chief of 22 years, died last month. Victoria describes his as a legendary editor. Rob talks about his time working with him and says he was gracious and intelligent with unyielding editorial integrity. Victoria and Rob share an audio clip from an earlier podcast of Joe Thompson speaking about George Holmes.State of the IndustryVictoria discusses a Jewelers Board of Trade webinar with its president, Erich Jacobs. He showed graphs on consumer sentiment, confidence, unemployment rates, and more. Erich says unemployment is linked to consumer satisfaction—if unemployment is low, generally consumer confidence is high. Now, we’re seeing a break from this. We have record low unemployment and low consumer confidence. Victoria says retailers may feel a little pinch in their bottom line, as consumers aren’t using credit cards as much.LVMH and Lab-Grown DiamondsRob comments on the lab-grown space and LVMH Luxury Holdings' investment in Lusix, an Israeli lab-grown diamond company. LVMH is not being shy about its investment—but this investment raises questions. Rob believes LVMH wants Lusix to scale with more persistent production. Victoria asks if the luxury sector is finally ready to accept lab-grown diamonds, and Rob isn’t sure.Russian DiamondsVictoria asks what’s happening in the world of Russian diamonds, and Rob says there are rumors in the industry about banks in Europe not wanting to fund Russian diamond shipments. Rob says the big companies have figured out a way to get diamonds back on the market after a slow run for Russian diamonds. On the flip side, Victoria has spoken to many Ukrainian jewelers, and her takeaway was their commitment to improving the industry and getting attention for Ukrainian jewelers in the market.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates share their post–JCK show takeaways and the interviews they conducted live on the JCK show floor.Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria share their takeaways from the JCK show09:30 Victoria interviews Jewelers Mutual Group’s chief content executive, Mark Smelzer11:00 Victoria interviews Stuller CEO Matt Stuller13:40 Rob interviews Craig Underwood of Underwoods Fine Jewelers17:00 Rob interviews Feriel Zerouki of De Beers20:18 Rob interviews Steve Coe, CEO of Lightbox Jewelry25:40 Victoria interviews Yuliya Kusher, CEO of Meylor Global29:26 Victoria interviews Manos Phoundoulakis of EZEC31:23 Rob interviews Jeff Corey, former owner of Day’s Jewelers, now currently the vice president of marketingEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapJCK Show TakeawaysVictoria and Rob comment on how amazing the JCK show was this year. Rob says the mood and attendance were really strong and how the jewelry industry has been on a high the past two years. Some people even told Rob it was their best show ever. Others came to the show for the first time—a great reminder of why we have in-person shows. There was some awareness of inflation at the show. Victoria also mentions orange emerging as a hot color in jewelry.Mark SmelzerVictoria interviews Jewelers Mutual Group’s chief content executive, Mark Smelzer. Mark used to be the publisher of JCK, and Victoria asks what it's like to be on the other side of the JCK show experience. Mark comments on the overall energy at the show, and that it’s great to see sales happening at every booth.Matt StullerMatt Stuller, CEO of Stuller, is excited to be at the show. Victoria comments on how busy the Stuller booth is. Victoria asks about its innovations this year. Victoria loves its permanent bracelet stand. Victoria asks how business has been so far this year, and Matt says business has been very strong. Everyone is cautiously optimistic.Craig UnderwoodRob mentions how Craig Underwood of Underwoods Fine Jewelers has just won the Robert M. Shipley Award, and Craig says they’re still on the high from receiving that award. Rob asks what they’re seeing at the show so far, and Craig says he’s loving the energy. Rob asks if Craig thinks this is going to be a great holiday, and Craig says yes—he’s cautiously optimistic.Feriel ZeroukiFeriel Zerouki, who won the Diamonds Do Good Next Gen Award at the show, is the senior vice president of corporate affairs for De Beers. Rob asks about Feriel’s involvement with the Responsible Jewellery Council, and Feriel says despite some problems recently, there’s also been great progress. Rob asks about the JCK show, and Feriel says it’s going well.Steve CoeRob asks Steve Coe, the CEO of Lightbox Jewelry, how things have progressed with Lightbox, which created shock waves in the industry when it first released its lab-grown jewelry line. Steve says 25% of their buyers are repeat customers. Rob notes how Lightbox expects to be using 100% renewable energy by the end of 2022, and Steve says it is making great progress on that. Steve says Lightbox is looking to other carat sizes and other colored diamonds besides pink and blue.Yuliya KusherVictoria interviews Yuliya Kusher, CEO of Meylor Global, the Ukrainian diamond company making lab-grown diamonds. She shows Victoria the largest uncut lab-grown diamond in the world, 150 carats. Victoria asks how the war is impacting their business, but Yuliya says they can’t really predict what will happen day to day.Manos PhoundoulakisVictoria interviews her good friend Manos Phoundoulakis about his new company EZEC, which he started with Andrew DeMarco. EZEC stands for Easy Emergency Contact. They claim to be saving lives and streamlining health care through jewelry. Its technological advancements help first responders with an easier way for people to wear medical ID bracelets.Jeff CoreyJeff Corey, vice president of marketing at Day's Jewelers, has been to 30 JCK shows. He was at the original and has been to every show since. He says it’s exciting to be here and doing business. He’s shopping around, looking at technology, and trying to see what’s new and exciting in jewelry. Last year, Day's Jewelers became employee-owned, so they share the profits of the company. Rob ask how business has been this year, and Jeff says it’s been excellent.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss Steven Kaiser’s passing, the Oak collection watch event at London’s Design Museum, De Beers' blockchain platform, recycled gold, and the JCK Las Vegas show.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob give their condolences to the family of Steven Kaiser.05:25 Victoria recounts her visit to London’s Design Museum to see the Oak collection.13:40 Rob explains De Beers' blockchain technology.16:22 Rob is concerned with recycled gold and what the term actually means.21:09 Victoria and Rob are excited for JCK Las Vegas!Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapSteven KaiserVictoria and Rob give their condolences to the family of Steven Kaiser. The industry titan passed away a week before recording this podcast. He was feted at 24 Karat Weekend in March. He was a "connecter" and, as Rob reports, very good at smoothing things over. The jewelry industry mourns his passing, and he will be deeply missed at JCK Las Vegas this week.The Oak CollectionVictoria was one of 65 journalists invited to London in late May to attend an event at the Design Museum. There, she saw the Oak (one-of-a-kind) collection. The Oak's owner, Patrick Getreide, has been collecting watches for 40 years. He has more than 600 of them (heavy on Patek Phillipe and Rolex), and 130 of them were on display for just one week. Victoria said the event felt like the gilded age of watches. Rob briefly mentions the Apple Watch and its effect on the watch industry.De Beers' BlockchainRob talks about De Beers and its blockchain technology. Basically, Rob says, it’s a way to track diamonds through the chain in a trade-facing, rather than consumer-facing, manner. De Beers says it can trace all of its diamonds of 1 carat and above and believes it can scale this technology. Rob says this technology has been a long time coming, and De Beers has the most ambitious technology out of everyone trying their hand at it.What Is Recycled Gold?Rob recently wrote a story on recycled gold, and Victoria asks what prompted him to write it. Rob says he was recently part of a webinar about recycled gold, and it made him consider what recycled gold really is. As it turns out, there are many definitions if recycled gold—including the one the Federal Trade Commission uses: something that would otherwise go in the trash. The problem is, gold isn’t thrown out. Rob talks about why labeling anything as recycled gold is a problem and why the industry should start being clearer on what recycled gold really is.JCK Las VegasVictoria and Rob’s schedules are packed for JCK Las Vegas. All of the events are back on, there’s tons of excitement, and Victoria is hoping for some good weather (not too hot!). From what Victoria understands, there is a great need to restock, which will make for a great show. JCK will be giving talks from the JCK stage and various educational classrooms. Victoria and Rob both look forward to meeting everyone there and give a little review of what to expect. Rob will also be signing copies of his novels!

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of RX Jewelry Group at Reed Exhibitions. They'll be discussing JCK Las Vegas 2022 and all that you can expect at the 30th anniversary of the show, which runs June 10–13.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob welcome their guest Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of RX Group at Reed Exhibitions.5:33 Sarin explains the layout of this year's show.10:35 Rob asks about the education and entertainment lineup at the show.16:32 Rob asks Sarin what she does to get ready for the show.23:55 Sarin gives hot tips for your time at the show.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapIntroducing Sarin BachmannVictoria and Rob welcome their guest Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of Reed Jewelry Group. She’s here to talk about the JCK show. The Luxury show opens June 8, and JCK Las Vegas kicks off on June 10. Sarin then tells how she got into the jewelry industry. She started off by working as a consultant, and one of her clients was Reed Exhibitions. She ended up leaving to work for Reed. She loves the jewelry industry, and knew she eventually wanted to run the jewelry shows. She particularly loves the passion in this industry.The JCK Show LayoutVictoria briefly asks about Yancy Weinrich, Sarin's predecessor as head of the Reed Jewelry Group. Yancy recently left RX, and now is a president of another trade show company. Sarin then pivots to talking about this year’s show. She says the layout is going to be similar to how things were in 2019 (i.e., having Luxury back on level 2). Sarin is excited for international visitors to be back at the show. New this year will be a pavilion called The Shops for gifts for retailers to fill out their stores. JCK swag will be available there as well.Education and EntertainmentRob asks about the education and entertainment lineup, and Sarin gives the full rundown, including sessions on sustainability, trends, digital marketing, NFTs, and much more. All programs will be back, including a visit from the cast of the musical Hamilton in a private performance with an after-party to follow. Victoria asks what Sarin is looking most forward to, and she says she’s looking forward to all the photo and video opportunities on the floor. She’s also looking forward to the show’s 30th-anniversary celebration happening on Saturday.Getting Ready for the ShowRob asks what Sarin does to get ready for the show—Sarin says packing! She’s out there for 10 or 11 nights, and the act of packing gets her excited for the show. Sarin says she’s not nervous, but there’s always some anxiety leading up to the show, especially for her own speech. She also says she never gets tired in Vegas, she’s always excited and ready to go to the show. Victoria plugs the newest issue of JCK, which includes a guide to new Vegas attractions. Victoria and Sarin both mention where they think you can get the best lunch in town.Hot TipsRob asks Sarin what her average JCK show day is like. Sarin says she saves checking out jewelry for the last day. Rob asks what she'd advise to those on the fence about coming to the JCK show, and Sarin says if you’re on the fence, you’re going to miss out. She also recommends preregistering for events. This year's show will be a celebration of JCK and of the industry coming together for 30 years.(Photo courtesy of Sarin Bachmann)

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about Watches and Wonders Geneva, the AGS Conclave, and Russian diamonds.Show Notes00:30 Victoria recaps her experience as a guest of Breitling ahead of Watches and Wonders.11:00 Victoria fills us in on her experience at Watches and Wonders.17:09 Rob was at the AGS Conclave and tells us how that went.21:49 Victoria and Rob express excitement for JCK Las Vegas; Rob talks about Russian diamonds.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapBreitling MarketingVictoria went to Watches and Wonders Geneva, where she was a guest of Breitling. Known for its aviation watches, the company invited journalists and watch experts to Zurich ahead of Watches and Wonders to celebrate the 70th anniversary of its Navitimer, introduced in 1952. George Kern, CEO of Breitling, came down to give a speech and boarded the same plane as Victoria, and everyone flew to Geneva. On the plane, all of the new watches were passed around.Watches and WondersVictoria says Watches and Wonders was a good show with a lot of excitement and optimism. She also noticed a lot of travel-themed watches. Rob asks if there was a lot of talk about smartwatches, and Victoria says no. She believes that smartwatches may have ignited a larger interest in watches in general even when they’re not present themselves. She also mentions a new mechanical watch she picked up at the show, and one brand, TAG Heuer, that’s using lab-grown diamonds in its watches.AGS ConclaveRob was just at the AGS Conclave in Oklahoma City. Victoria asks if lab-grown was a big theme there, and Rob says it was a theme, but not a major one. A lot of the discussion around lab-grown diamonds was about making sure you’re not accidentally buying a lab-grown when you believe you’re buying natural. A big topic at AGS was Russian diamonds and the reputational issues around buying and selling them. Rob says the mood at AGS was a good, and this event was one of its most highly attended Conclaves. There were sessions on sustainability and the verbiage around sustainability as well as origin and tracing.Russian DiamondsVictoria mentions anticipation for JCK Las Vegas. Rob and Victoria are both looking forward to the event and want to meet with people in person rather than virtually. To end the podcast, Victoria asks Rob about Russian diamonds. The U.S. sanctions have been a big hit to Alrosa, which is one- third owned by the Russian government. There aren’t many newly mined diamonds on the market. A lot of people are paying attention to traceability and sourcing.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Ziad Ahmed, CEO of JUV Consulting, a New York City–based firm that advises companies on how to market to Gen Z.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest Ziad Ahmed, CEO of JUV Consulting06:02 Rob asks what characteristics define Gen Z14:30 Victoria asks about non-digital experiences and purpose-led brands, while Rob asks about how Gen Zers feel about marketing18:45 Rob asks how Gen Z views the luxury category21:27 Victoria asks how Gen Zers are now buying jewelryEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, JUV ConsultingShow RecapIntroducing Ziad AhmedVictoria and Rob introduce their guest Ziad Ahmed, CEO of JUV Consulting, a New York City–based firm that advises companies on how to market to Gen Z. Gen Z is defined as people who were born between 1997 and 2012. Ziad was born and raised in Princeton, N.J., in an American-Muslim household. In eighth grade, he started a nonprofit, a by-teens, for-teens organization that make community and schools more operative and inclusive. In high school, he started JUV Consulting, as he believed diverse young people should have a seat at the table.What Makes Gen-Z Rob asks what Ziad relies on for the information he’s tapped into on Gen Z, and Ziad reports that it’s a mix of survey data, in-depth research, and more. Victoria asks what kind of clients JUV works with, and Ziad says it ranges from Fortune 500s to startups to local campaigns to nonprofits. Ziad shares some of the clients that he’s been proud to work with. Rob asks the key characteristics that define Gen Z, and Ziad says Gen Z has grown up in the digital age, with social media as a language that they’re fluent in that allows them to find community. Victoria asks which platforms are essential, and Ziad thinks TikTok is the platform of the moment where celebrities are made overnight.Gen Z and Digital Experiences, Sustainability, and MarketingVictoria is interested in Ziad’s non-digital experiences, and Ziad explains how non-digital and digital experiences are blended. She then asks how Gen Z views the marketplace and how they want to shop, and if purpose-led brands are important to Gen Zers. Ziad says the American market has the capital to spend a little extra on purpose-led brands. Ziad believes we will continue to raise the bar on what sustainability looks like. Rob asks what turns Gen Zers off or what comes across as tone-deaf, and Ziad says that most marketing is cringe-inducing, and that’s why JUV consulting exists.How Gen Z Views LuxuryRob asks about luxury and how Ziad’s generation tends to look at luxury, and Ziad says luxury is in for a rude awakening as a lot of it is antithetical to Gen Z’s values. There are issues around inclusivity, income inequality, and gluttony and excess that are being scrutinized by this generation. Gen Z is concerned with what companies are paying their employees, how stable the supply chain is, and what kind of craftsmanship went into the making of the piece. Gen Z, Ziad says, is concerned with its image, and, like a brand, is trying to create who they are and show what they represent through their purchasing habits.How Gen Z Buys JewelryVictoria asks where Gen Z’s very deliberate purchasing habits leave them in terms of buying jewelry, and Ziad says Gen Z is very much interested in jewelry as a means of gender expression, but many are buying their jewelry secondhand from thrift stores. However, Ziad says there is still interest in new jewelry. Rob asks about traditional ceremonies that call for jewelry, such as weddings, and if Gen Z will still be buying jewelry for that purpose. Ziad says yes, but he explains how it might look different from generations past.(Photo courtesy of Ziad Ahmed)

In This EpisodeWe’ve collected the origin stories of some past guests—including that of host and news director Rob Bates—so you can hear the different ways in which people got their start in the industry. You'll hear from Alexander Lacik, Sean Kell, Alexis Padis, Gina Drosos, and Alan Revere.Show Notes00:30 Introducing this week’s podcast02:57 Alexander Lacik, CEO of Pandora06:14 Sean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile09:48 Alexis Padis, president of Padis Jewelry 13:50 Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers17:44 Alan Revere, founder of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts22:40 Rob Bates, news director of JCKEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, Pandora Group, Blue Nile, Padis Jewelers, Signet Jewelers, Alan Revere, Rob Bates Author Show RecapAlexander LacikBefore becoming CEO of Pandora, Alexander worked with a range of brands including Pringles, Vicks, Always, Olay, Pantene, Lysol, Woolite, Head & Shoulders, and more. After moving back to Sweden with his kids, he ended up working with Britax for a while before Pandora knocked on his door. He was excited to work with Pandora because it was a big Scandinavian international brand. Rob asks what the commonalities are between these successful brands.Sean KellSean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile, came from a family who loved jewelry. He started as an engineer, then went into sales before going to business school to study marketing. He also worked at Starbucks, Expedia, and A Place for Mom before finally ending up in the jewelry industry. What attracted him to the industry in the first place: its size, and how it’s difficult for consumers to figure it out—he wants to change the industry to be a little more convenient for shoppers. Blue Nile originally operated solely on the web, but it has since opened brick-and-mortar stores to meet customers where they want to be met.Alexis PadisAlexis Padis is president of Padis Jewelry in San Francisco. She’s one of four kids, and she’s the only one who ended up joining the family business after spending time in an entirely different industry. She tells the story of how after selling an engagement ring to one couple she decided to make the industry here career. She also explains how her parents got into the industry. Her dad dropped out of medical school to become a jeweler, and met his Alexis’ mom in the industry.Gina DrososGina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers, says she’s always wanted to work in an industry where she feels as though the product makes a difference in people’s lives. She also explains how she likes “transformation opportunities,” and what she means by that phrase. She then talks about her experiences working at other companies before she landed at Signet. One of those experiences she's particularly proud of is her time at Olay. Rob asks if Gina had an affinity for jewelry growing up, and she says she would always play in her mother’s jewelry box. While her mother didn’t have a large collection, all of her pieces were meaningful. On Gina’s 18th birthday, her parents bought her her very first piece of fine jewelry, a diamond cocktail ring from Friedman’s.Alan RevereAlan Revere—the past president of the American Jewelry Design Council, founder of the Contemporary Design Group, and founder of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco—tells us he dropped a potential career in law for the arts in the 1970s. He got a job as a bench jeweler in Oakland, Calif. It was there that he learned how to do repairs, resize rings, fulfill custom orders, and the like. At the California College of the Arts, Alan taught a small class—which eventually led to him teaching from his studio, and then his home. In 1979, he established the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts.Rob BatesRob’s grandfather was a diamond dealer. When Rob got out of college and started looking for a writing job, he saw an ad for Martin Rapaport's diamond industry newsletter, which he originally wasn’t sure about taking—but did. He ended up working for National Jeweler. It’s now been 24 years that he's been working for JCK. He even met his wife in the jewelry industry. One thing Rob says he likes about the industry is that you’re always learning.(Photos courtesy of Alexander Lacik, Sean Kell, Alexis Padis, Gina Drosos, Alan Revere, and Rob Bates)

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Beth Gerstein, cofounder and CEO of Brilliant Earth.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest Beth Gerstein, cofounder and CEO of Brilliant Earth08:30 Beth explains the importance of sustainability to the consumer14:11 Brilliant Earth offers both lab-grown and natural diamonds—Beth explains the difference19:10 Beth talks about Brilliant Earth’s Fairmined collection23:16 Rob and Victoria wrap up the podcast with discussion of international plans, marketing to Gen Z versus millennials, Russian diamonds, and brick-and-mortar stores and online salesEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: brilliantearth.com, jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapIntroducing Beth GersteinVictoria and Rob introduce their guest Beth Gerstein, cofounder and CEO of Brilliant Earth in San Francisco. Victoria mentions that Brilliant Earth is really leading the charge on sustainability and ethical sourcing. As always, the JCK editors dive into Beth’s background and how she got into the jewelry industry. Beth grew up in Maryland, and both of her parents worked in government. She studied biomedical engineering and did work launching satellites, but Beth eventually realized her heart was in business and switched industries entirely.The Importance of SustainabilityBeth explains how she developed Brilliant Earth on a set of values revolving around sustainability and ethical sourcing. With diamonds being such an emotional purchase, she believed people would want to know about the sourcing of their stones. She says Brilliant Earth's customers don’t want to compromise on quality, design, or experience—but transparency is extremely important. The company recently released its sustainability report, and she wants the industry to continue to do this difficult work. Beth also confirms that it’s been six months since Brilliant Earth went public. She says it helps them to set clear objectives and have financial discipline.Lab-Grown DiamondsVictoria and Rob have questions for Beth about lab-grown versus mined diamonds, and Beth says that there’s space for both—it opens the market more. Brilliant Earth started offering lab-grown 10 years ago and sees continued success with their sale. As a retailer, she says it's Brilliant Earth's responsibility to be open about its sources for both conflict-free and lab-grown diamonds. Beth says typically the younger shopper tends to gravitate more toward lab-grown diamonds. Victoria asks about a lack of transparency when it comes to lab-grown diamond sourcing.Brilliant Earth’s Fairmined CollectionVictoria asks Beth about Brilliant Earth's new Fairmined gold collection, and Beth says she developed the collection with its customers in mind. She’s happy to be able to support artisanal and small-scale miners who are getting a fair price for their gold. She believes Fairmined gold will only grow in popularity. Victoria also asks if Beth goes to shows like JCK—and Beth has met many great suppliers since the first show. Rob asks what the most important thing about building a brand is, and Beth says it’s building a connection to the customers.International Plans, Gen Z Versus Millennials, and Russian DiamondsRob asks Beth if Brilliant Earth plans to make a push internationally at some point, and she says yes. It's already shipping to more than 50 countries. Victoria asks about Gen Z and how they differ from millennials. Gen Z is social first, and Beth says it’s important to talk to customers where they are. She also says she values authenticity, inclusivity, and expects sustainability. Brilliant Earth has also recently removed Russian diamonds from their site.(Photo courtesy of Beth Gerstein)

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the industry-related effects of the Russian invasion of Ukraine and some news from the American Gem Trade Association.

Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates talk with Holly Wesche, owner of Wesche Jewelers.

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the Tucson gem shows, Kering's sale of two watch brands, small diamonds, and Rob’s new book.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Emily Stoehrer, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about Ben Bridge and Pandora, the Tucson shows, and predictions for 2022.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob talk about how 2021 was a good year for the jewelry industry.09:15 Seattle-based Ben Bridge is divesting from Pandora, and Rob explains what that means for the franchise.13:16 Rob and Victoria discuss where the ownership of Robbins Brothers, another West Coast company, lies.17:16 Victoria is excited to go to the Tucson gem shows.21:35 Victoria recounts her article interviewing 22 people’s predictions on the jewelry and watch industry in 2022.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapSparkling SalesAfter talking about how the pandemic is going, Victoria mentions a 2021 “December to Remember” email she got from Abe Sherman, CEO of the Buyers Intelligence Group, reviewing just how good jewelry sales were across the industry. Rob and Victoria marvel over how successful the jewelry industry has been and how the jewelry market is potentially bigger than anyone expected. The question remains: How do we make this last?Ben Bridge and PandoraRob talks about Ben Bridge’s decision to sell its 37 Pandora franchise stores back to Pandora. These 37 stores comprise most of the Pandora stores on the West Coast. Pandora has gone back and forth between wanting to control its own stores and letting other brands control its sales. Rob then explores how he thinks Ben Bridge might grow in the future.Robbins BrothersRob briefly talks about another West Coast jeweler, Robbins Brothers, a 15-store chain owned by private equity, which has put together a new management-led buyout.The Tucson Gem ShowsVictoria is going to Tucson for the gem shows! Centurion is opening at a new location this month. She spoke to Howard Hauben, the organizer of Centurion, and he says they’re moving full steam ahead. The Tucson shows are as well. Victoria notes there will be supply constraints and prices rising on quality goods. The pearl market is also constrained due to the lack of harvest. A piece of advice? If you like something, buy it. Prices are expected to rise, so you’re going to want to grab what you can while you can.2022 PredictionsRob is hopeful that in March we’ll be able to have a nice 24 Karat Weekend. Victoria notes the Gem Awards have a really great roster as well. Thinking about this year and what to expect, Victoria recalls her article interviewing 22 people across the jewelry industry answering the question: “What is your boldest prediction for the jewelry and watch industry in 2022?” She says their answers were mostly positive, but there was a belief that people would be judged by their actions, meaning that you can no longer just boast about your values. You now must show how your business is aligning with them.

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Alexis Padis, president of San Francisco–based Padis Jewelry.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates make predictions for 2022 and some New Year's resolutions.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates look back and reflect on the past year.

You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Scott Lachut, partner and president of research and strategy at PSFK.

Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates talk about sustainability in the industry, holiday predictions, and a new De Beers ad campaign.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers.

JCK's Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates talk about sustainability in watches, the HardRock Summit, and the Pandora Papers.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk to guest Sean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile. They'll discuss how Sean got into the jewelry industry, how Blue Nile has done during the pandemic, the De Beers Ten/Ten campaign, and expectations for the upcoming holiday season.Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce their guest, Sean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile.7:40 Sean explains how he got into the jewelry industry after jumping around and working in several different industries.13:36 Blue Nile did well during the pandemic. Hear how.17:38 Victoria asks Sean about Blue Nile’s social presence.19:20 Sean explains the success of the De Beers Ten/Ten Campaign that Blue Nile took part in.20:56 Sean talks about Lightbox, Brilliant Earth going public, and his holiday expectations.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapIntroducing Sean KellAt the time of this recording, Victoria had just gotten back from Denver, where she'd been attending the Hard Rock Summit; she said the show was fantastic and that she promises to chat about it at a later date. Rob and Victoria then introduce their guest: Sean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile, who is calling in from just outside of Seattle. Sean says it feels like things in the jewelry industry are finally returning to normal. He also expresses his love for Blue Nile and how much he enjoys working there.How Sean Got Into the IndustryBlue Nile has 13 showrooms, with 5 more opening later this year. Ultimately, the company plans to have 40 more showrooms across the country. Sean says Blue Nile is looking at expanding into colored stones and men’s jewelry. He then explains what attracted him to the jewelry industry in the first place: its size, and its difficulty for consumers to figure it out and how it's difficult for consumers to figure it out—he wants to change the industry to be a little more convenient or shoppers. Blue Nile originally operated solely on the web, but it has since opened brick-and-mortar stores to meet customers where they want to be met.Blue Nile During the PandemicBack in 2020, Blue Nile’s showrooms were closed for a time. But since the brand was already established as an online company, it didn’t have much trouble during that transition period. Sean says Blue Nile has seen terrific growth, and it continues to enjoy that growth as the country opens back up and it opens new showrooms. Earlier in the pandemic, Blue Nile also offered virtual appointments, which it continues to do. It uses actual studios for its one-on-one sessions, and the personal jewelers have multiple cameras to provide an immersive experience, similar to one in a brick-and-mortar store.Blue Nile’s Social PresenceVictoria asks about social media. Sean says Blue Nile has fully embraced Instagram in the United States. He also talks about social media platforms in China, which are even more important to the Chinese consumer than Instagram and Facebook are to the American shopper. While Blue Nile hasn't started doing virtual appointments on Instagram, it's working hard on its video and phone business.De Beers and the Ten/Ten CampaignVictoria asks about Blue Nile's teaming with De Beers and 10 independent designers in 2020 for a design collaboration called Ten/Ten. The designers created limited-edition engagement rings featuring center stones all sourced from De Beers' mines in Botswana. Sean discusses the success of that partnership. A hundred rings were created in total, and the program highlighted 10 wonderful designers—all women—and the beauty of natural diamonds in center stone engagement rings.Lightbox and Natural Diamonds, Brilliant Earth, and the HolidaysRob asks about Lightbox, and Sean says Blue Nile’s partnership with De Beers and Lightbox has been a good way for the company to test the waters of lab-grown diamonds. Blue Nile continues to sell only natural diamonds in its center stone engagement rings, and its customers are mainly looking for natural diamonds. Rob also mentions that one of Blue Nile’s competitors, Brilliant Earth, is going public, and Sean answers the question of whether he sees that happening for Blue Nile any time soon. Victoria asks if Blue Nile is seeing any bottlenecks in the shipping capacity for holiday sales. Sean says Blue Nile is expecting its largest holiday season.(Photo courtesy of Sean Kell)

Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates talk about their impressions of the JCK Show.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Kate Youngstrom, vice president of brand and content marketing for RX Global. They talk about all things JCK Show—from its safety measures to its social and education events. Show Notes 00:53 Victoria and Rob introduce today’s guest, Kate Youngstrom, vice president of brand and content marketing for RX Global.05:54 Kate goes over all the safety measures taken this year and shares where you can find more information.08:30 There are plenty of social and networking events at this year’s show. Kate tells the JCK editors about just a few of them.12:12 What’s new this year in the education programs.15:39 Kate talks all about Jewelers Source and the perks of having JCK Pro. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Kate YoungstromVictoria is getting ready to head off to the JCK Show, flying from Burbank, Calif., to Las Vegas, and she’s so excited to see all her friends there. Rob is also excited. Their guest on today’s podcast, Kate Youngstrom, vice president of brand and content marketing for RX Global, will also be in attendance. She’s joining them today to give listeners some details about the show—which she says is unequivocally happening this year. Luxury opens by invitation only on Tues., Aug. 24 for two and a half days, then will remain open for everyone else Friday through Monday. And attendance looks strong! Safety MeasuresRob asks if people will be able to come from outside of the country to the show, and Kate says interested attendees must follow the rules of their particular country. Safety policies mandate that masks are required, and masks will be offered at the center. But Kate recommends checking out the JCK Show’s website for all of the most up-to-date safety information. Presenters will have the option to wear masks onstage if they want. Social Events and DiningThere are some evening social events planned. For the all-access badge holders in the Luxury community, on Wednesday night there is the fan-favorite Dine Out program featuring 17 restaurants. On Thursday, for those same badge holders there’s an Around the World happy hour taking place between three restaurant bars, with drink tickets available. On Friday evening, the Women's Jewelry Association (WJA) and the American Gem Society Young Titleholders, in partnership with JCK, are holding a happy hour at Sushi Samba. And on Sunday night, the Jewelers for Children (JFC) dinner is taking place in the Venetian Bar. Victoria mentions that on page 130 of the latest issue of JCKmagazine, Matt Villano wrote a piece about all the new places to eat, drink, and see in Vegas. Education ProgramsRob asks about the education programs, which Kate says take place across three days of the show, starting on Friday morning and running through Sunday. They’ll be held on the show floor on the showcase stage. For the first time this year, there will be a few viewing pods on the show floor, where those who don't enough time to go from one place to another can watch livestreams of the education programs. Additionally, there will be two new education activation stations. One, the “Podcast Zone,” will allow attendees to watch podcasters record their podcasts live; the other, the "Content Creation Zone," will show visitors how to really bring a piece of jewelry to life through photography, social media, and emails. Jewelers Source and JCK Pro PerksThis year’s keynote speech will be given on Saturday by the National Retail Federation and will take a look at the past 18 months—where we’ve been, where we’re going, and what we’ve learned. Victoria asks Kate about Jewelers Source, the JCK Marketplace where you can create meetings, source product, and see what the trends are. Kate says that all the content from the JCK Show will be available afterward on the site for JCK Pro users, and that those users will enjoy in-person perks at the show too, such as a dedicated lounge with amenities, and education and networking opportunities.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the new Tiffany campaign, Rolex, and diamond tracking systems. Show Notes00:51 The JCK Show is coming up, and Rob and Victoria excitedly wonder how it will go.05:36 Rob talks about how Tiffany & Co.’s new campaign is ruffling some feathers.11:50 Rolex has increased market share over the course of the pandemic, and the JCK editors talk about the brand.17:46 Alrosa came out with nanotechnology to track its diamonds. Rob explores the technology's applications. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: JCK Show, jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap The JCK Show Victoria and Rob talk a little bit about the JCK Show coming up later this month. They both have been making appointments, and Rob will be on a panel. Victoria thinks this will be a very different Vegas than what we’re used to, but she says it’ll be a very special one as we all come back together for the first time. Not Your Mother's Tiffany Rob recently wrote about Tiffany & Co.’s new campaign, which has been a bit controversial. Some are attributing the company’s new campaign slogan, “Not Your Mother’s Tiffany," to 29-year-old Alexandre Arnault, who oversees the brand’s communications. He’s the son of Bernard Arnault, LMVH chairman. Rob says Alexandre is trying to “hip up” the brand—but wonders if the new campaign is too cheeky. Some mothers are offended by the campaign, as it dates the Tiffany they know. Victoria brings up the Mercedes Benz campaign featuring Janis Joplin that isolated its core consumer but ended up working well for the brand. Rolex, Unsurprisingly, Stays on the Rise Victoria pivots to talking about the watch industry, specifically Rolex. The brand has gained market share over the course of the pandemic. Victoria spoke to a fellow editor in the watch space, who said that other watch companies looking to gain market share shouldn’t compare themselves to Rolex: “We all live on planet watchmaking, but they’re on planet Rolex.” Victoria brings up the brand since Tourneau has recently opened up an adjoining Tudor–Rolex boutique in New York City's Meatpacking District. New Diamond Tracking Technology Rob talks about tracking diamonds through the supply chain. Alrosa just came out with a system that uses nanotechnology, a part of the gems' molecular structure, to track its diamonds. Rob mentions that some people are concerned about hacking and security. However, this technology should be able to bring more transparency to the industry when it comes to origin, traceability, and trackability. But Alrosa’s tracking technology doesn’t just have to be about tracking where diamonds came from. It may also be useful for those wanting to track their diamonds if they happen to be stolen, so there are plenty of uses for this tech.

In This Episode You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Alan Revere, award-winning jewelry designer, author, and founder of the now-closed Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts. Show Notes00:50 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Alan Revere.07:16 Alan got his start with jewelry in Germany, and he explains what he did once he got back to the United States.11:00 Alan tells the JCK editors what the jewelry industry was like back in the ’60s and ’70s.13:04 Alan discloses which jewelers have stuck out to him.15:47 The Revere Academy closed in 2017, and Alan explains his feelings on that time.18:58 Now retired, Alan lets listeners know what he's up to these days. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jcklasvegas.com, jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Alan RevereVictoria and Rob briefly mention this year’s new issue of JCK magazine, which is all about JCK Las Vegas, now taking place in late August. They then introduce their guest, Alan Revere. He is the past president of the American Jewelry Design Council, founder of the Contemporary Design Group, and founder of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco. He’s now retired in Lucas Valley, in Marin, Calif., living in a midcentury modern home. He grew up in Great Neck, N.Y., but trained in Germany. Here he tells the story of how he got involved in the jewelry industry. How Alan Got His StartAlan tells us he dropped a potential career in law for the arts in the ’70s. Victoria asks about what happened when he came back from Germany in 1974 and landed on the West Coast. Alan says he got a job as a bench jeweler in Oakland, Calif.. It was there that he learned how to do repairs, resize rings, fulfill custom orders, and the like. At the California College of the Arts, Alan taught a small class—which eventually led to him teaching from his studio, and then his home. In 1979, he established the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts. Industry Changes in the ’60s and ’70s Rob says we think a lot about how the ’60s and ’70s were a big time for change in arts and design, and asks Alan what school of design he belonged to. Alan says in the ’60s, contemporary jewelry started to come of age, but no one was selling under their own name. By the ’70s, that had all begun to change, when a range of trends began to bloom and jewelers started their own name brands. At that time, Alan says people had more money than they knew what to do with, so it was a better time for buying jewelry. Who Stands OutVictoria asks Alan if he taught CAD at the Revere Academy, and he explains that he did, but seldom. For him, creating jewelry is best when done with your hands. He’s a craftsman who wants to touch the materials—but he recognizes how useful today's technology is. Changing subjects, Victoria asks which of Alan's students have really stood out. Alan says James Binnion, a metaler; Mary-Lee Rae an enamelist; and Dana Bronfman, a newcomer to the space. He also mentions Kirk Bloodsworth, the first convicted inmate to be released because of DNA evidence, who then released a line of jewelry for others who have been exonerated. Though Alan says there is no other academy like his as none are all-encompassing as his was, there are a few he likes. The Closing of the Academy Rob asks Alan how he feels about having closed the Revere Academy in 2017. Alan says he believes that everything happens on time when it’s supposed to. The price of rent for his building exploded. Someone suggested that he sell the academy, but he didn’t want anyone to tarnish something founded in his name, so he decided to finally close its doors four years ago. What Alan Is Up to NowAlan tells us he has a bench in his home, so he’s still making jewelry. He belongs to the American Jewelry Design Council, a group of 30 talented jewelry designers across the country. They make jewelry every year according to a theme. Rob asks Alan about the future of jewelry design—but Alan says that he’s an expert of the past, not the future. Alan then gives fun facts about the history of jewelry. (Photo courtesy of Alan Revere)

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about Watches of Switzerland, Alex and Ani, and marketing innovations. Show Notes00:55 Victoria talks about her trip to New York to see Watches of Switzerland's new campaign.07:02 The jewelry industry is doing well.09:25 Rob explains how Alex and Ani declined into bankruptcy.16:49 Victoria discusses her article for The New York Times in which she talks with top minds in marketing.20:14 The president of research and strategy at the New York–based company PSFK told Victoria about developing technology called "digital twins." Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: Zing by Jewelers Mutual, jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap New York Is Back! Plus Watches of Switzerland Shows Off Victoria and Rob kick off the podcast by talking about Victoria’s recent trip to New York, her first visit to the city since the pandemic started. She was in New York for a press trip, sponsored by Watches of Switzerland to celebrate its newest campaign: Anytime, Anywhere. The brand showed off its watches in a spectacular video created by a creative director hired specifically for the job. Watches of Switzerland will have an Airstream parked in the Hamptons in New York through August to show off its watches. Victoria and Rob also briefly talk about how New York has changed since the beginning of the pandemic and where peoples’ dispensable income is going. A Thriving Industry Rob says lab-grown and natural diamonds are doing well. The fear was that these two industries would cannibalize each other, but so far that hasn’t happened. Retail sales are up, and people are ready for the pandemic to be over. Victoria pivots to mention a company called Threads Styling, a chat-based platform with an Instagram account. If consumers like what they see, they can start a chat via WhatsApp with a personal shopper and talk about the pieces they're interested in. Now, the company has its own shop on Instagram. Rob mentions Signet is also doing well. Alex and Ani and Bankruptcy Victoria gives a quick counter to all the optimism we’ve heard so far of booming retail sales: Alex and Ani has gone bankrupt. Rob explains the brand was once one of the biggest in the industry, valued at over a billion dollars. However, last month it filed for Chapter 11. Alex and Ani's interim CEO has said the company faced three main problems: macro trends driving customers away from brick-and-mortar retail, explosive growth in the early 2010s that resulted in operational challenges, and significant turnover in management. Rob also explains the company’s link to a spiritual healer and the ways in which its mobile app used customer data. What's Next for Watches Victoria held a trio of interviews for an article called “What’s Next for Watches” which ran in The New York Times on June 19—asking her interviewees what's coming in the watch industry and retail at large. The first person she spoke to is an expert on consumer psyche, who held conversations with consumers on what they need to feel good about purchasing something. He says brands need to be able to convey a sense of stability, truth, timelessness, and authenticity—all things that the luxury watch industry has expressed well. Digital Twins Victoria also spoke to the president of research and strategy, at the New York–based company PSFK, who discussed an omnichannel approach of meeting customers where they are. He also spoke about a concept called “digital twins,” where every manufactured product will have a digital version online. This would ensure that data on all its products could be stored up in the cloud, and allow information on anomalies in its watches or problems in a specific customer’s watch to be sent to the brand—giving it the capability to inform its customers that they should bring their watch in for service. This technology could be especially valuable in the automobile space.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with guest Casey Melvin, cofounder and co-CEO of the Future of Jewelry. She'll be describing what the company she and her sister started offers and how it's different from traditional jewelers. Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Casey Melvin.07:08 Casey describes the Future of Jewelry platform.10:20 Casey talks about how she differentiates her company from those of traditional jewelers and describes her consumer.13:05 Victoria asks if the Future of Jewelry has had any investors, and Casey describes the types of rings consumers can create on the company's website in greater detail.20:30 Rob asks Casey what the future of her company looks like. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Riley McKascleProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: thefutureofjewelry.com, jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Casey Melvin Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Casey Melvin, cofounder and co-CEO of the Future of Jewelry. Casey entered the jewelry industry in 2016. Before that, she was in law school. It was during law school that she studied abroad in the United Kingdom with her sister. One weekend in Spain, they were looking for a piece of jewelry to mark their trip to the country. She found a signet ring that she loved and wanted to surprise her sister with one—but the rings were either extremely expensive, or extremely cheap. From there, they both got into 3D printing for their own brand of customizable signet rings. The Future of Jewelry Platform Casey tells the JCK editors a little bit about the platform the Future of Jewelry uses that allows buyers to design their own ring on its website. You don’t have to be a designer in order to create your signet ring. You can choose the band, engraving, and kind of metal, all of which helps you make a ring that's completely unique and personalized. If you have access to a 3D printer, you can also buy a design file of the ring you design and 3D-print the piece yourself. How the Company Stands Out Victoria asks how Casey’s platform fits in to the world of more traditional jewelry. She believes that her company stands out as it democratizes jewelry at a lower price point. She wants her consumer to be a part of the design process. She says she imagines the Future of Jewelry buyer to be in their 20s or 30s, someone with a bit of disposable income, who wants a piece that stands the test of time. Casey says the company has attracted a lot of customers by word of mouth, and she wants to create direct relationships with her customers. The Ring and Company Inventory Victoria asks Casey if the company had any investors, and Casey answers that it's just been her and her two sisters (though she's received some advice from Mark Cuban; he told her to keep the company in the family, advice that she took to heart). As for the ring itself, you can engrave it with a monogram, roman numerals, icons, dates, geographical locations, and more. Victoria asks if this kind of personalization is coming soon to other companies—Casey doesn’t think so. She also believes more companies should digitize their inventory. When the Future of Jewelry started, it had a digital inventory, so she and her sisters didn’t have to put up a huge amount of money upfront. The Future of the Future of Jewelry In 2018, the Future of Jewelry became a web-based product. It would have had to pay out 30% of all in-app sales to Apple to be in its App Store, which just didn’t make sense for the company's business model, so it's web-only. Rob asks Casey what the future of her company is—and she wants to focus on consumer education and expanding her company while condensing her supply chain. She would also like to shorten the time it takes for consumers to receive their rings, which is currently three weeks from the time an order is placed. Rings start at around $90, but can go up to $250 and beyond depending on the type of metal and design choices. (Photo courtesy of Casey Melvin)

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about how COVID-19 is affecting India, the Kay + Zales combo stores, and the De Beers Forevermark rebranding. Show Notes 00:30 While New York City and Los Angeles are doing okay in terms of COVID-19, the situation in India is looking bleak.06:27 Rob discusses what stock prices are looking like in India despite the pandemic.12:36 Kay and Zales have come together to form Kay + Zales. Rob and Victoria offer their thoughts.18:32 Forevermark rebranded recently. Why? And what does Gen Z think? Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Riley McCaskillProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Stuggles In India Victoria and Rob talk about how things seem to be going back to normal in Los Angeles and New York City, as people start leaving their homes more after being inside for so much of 2020. Unfortunately, the same can’t be said for India, where 132,788 new cases of COVID-19 were reported on June 1. Victoria recently reached out to Tarang Arora, who is part of the family that owns Amrapali. He’s involved in an initiative called Find a Bed, which helps place people in hospitals in India. Where Are India's Stock Numbers? Rob looks at India from an industry perspective and reports that its stock levels in jewelry were very high before the country was hit so hard by COVID-19. In fact, its stock numbers were higher in March 2021 than they were in March 2020, before the country experienced a spike in COVID-19 cases. Victoria wonders whether India is now experiencing the same things the United States did in 2020 as far as buying and selling—such as people being home more often and buying jewelry to pass the time. Rob also relays an interesting news story about fraudulent letters and bank loans from one Indian company. Combining Forces: Kay + Zales Victoria asks Rob to explain a story he wrote recently about a Kay and Zales combo-store concept, Kay + Zales. Since malls haven’t been getting the same traction they once did, the two competitors (both owned by Signet) decided to combine forces and share the same store space. Will this idea be successful? Time will tell. You’ll also hear from who Rob calls his “JCK spy." They visited the store to see what the commotion was about, and he relays his informant's thoughts. Victoria applauds the stores' innovation and willingness to try something different. What's in a Name? Recently, Forevermark rebranded itself as De Beers Forevermark. The reasoning behind this move, Rob explains, is that LVMH once had rights to use the De Beers name commercially, but once De Beers bought the company out, De Beers wanted to consolidate its brands under the same name. We have yet to see if the De Beers name will make any difference to the Forevermark brand. Victoria wonders what members of Gen Z know of the brand name De Beers, if they know it at all.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Shelia Bayes, CEO and founder of Gem + Jewel and owner of Shelia Bayes Jewelers. They discuss sexism in the jewelry industry, what kind of company Gem + Jewel is, and Shelia's move into the world of e-commerce. Show Notes 00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Shelia Bayes.08:45 Shelia recounts sexism she has faced in the jewelry industry, and then tells us about her company's move.12:38 Victoria and Rob ask how Shelia has been holding up throughout the pandemic.17:36 Shelia explains who Gem + Jewel is designed to service.24:23 E-commerce can be a personalized experience, Shelia says. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: gemandjewel.com, jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Shelia BayesVictoria and Rob start off by talking a little bit about the upcoming JCK Las Vegas show, and then introduce their guest, Shelia Bayes, CEO and founder of Gem + Jewel and owner of Shelia Bayes Jewelers. Shelia started Gem + Jewel 28 years ago but has been involved in the jewelry business since she was 17. She tells the JCK editors about how she got her start in the jewelry business and later survived the 2008 economic crisis. Facing Industry Sexism, and a MoveShelia has been working in jewelry since the 1980s; as a woman with her own business, she wasn’t always as accepted or respected as her male colleagues were. She tells a story of a man at a Las Vegas show who asked her where her husband or father was, and shares her feelings about experiencing that act of sexism. Victoria also asks Shelia about her store moving from downtown Lexington, Ky., to a lifestyle center outside of town, and then to an upscale strip mall. How She’s ManagingVictoria asks Shelia how she’s been managing during the COVID-19 pandemic. Shelia reports that she’s been faring well and has seen a particular rise in the bridal category, from engagement rings to upgrades of stones. She’s had a very diamond-focused year, selling both natural and lab-grown diamonds. And lab-growns have had a particular increase in sales this past year. Shelia also tells us which of the business practices she implemented during the pandemic she'll continue post-COVID-19, such as emphasizing e-commerce. Gem + JewelShelia’s company Gem + Jewel was founded to level the playing field for independent retailers. So many independent retailers don’t have the bandwidth or skills to effectively start and run an e-commerce website. Gem + Jewel streamlines the e-commerce process by creating the retailer's website and having the retailer list its inventory online. Shelia says that Gem + Jewel has just started working with Jewelers Mutual and its Zing platform. Rob then pivots to ask a question about customer acquisition cost, especially on Facebook, and how it affects local jewelers. E-commerce, PersonalizedRob asks Shelia how independent retailers can still offer customers a personalized experience when they're buying jewelry online. Shelia says that e-commerce is already tailored to the individual, as everyone wants to shop how they want and when they want. She also mentions that independent retailers can be more versatile than a bigger retailer like Amazon because they can add personal touches. For example, some customers have ordered online but then opted to pick up their jewelry at a physical store in order to have it gift wrapped first. Photo courtesy of Sheila Bayes

In This Episode You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about new technology in jewelry, Tiffany & Co.’s new engagement rings for men, and the United States' sanctions on Burma. Show Notes 00:30 Victoria questioned luxury brands about their opinion on technology in the industry.6:55 Victoria wonders whether jewelry will eventually become all digital.13:30 Rob and Victoria discuss Tiffany's new engagement rings for men and why these are different from previous men's engagement pieces.19:36 Rob explains what's going on with the sanctions on Burma and what they mean for you. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Resistance to Technology in the Luxury Space We’re living our lives in the digital sphere more than ever, but the question remains, will our future be digital? Victoria explores the intersection of jewelry and the digital world, especially in the luxury industry. When Victoria reached out to leaders in the jewelry industry for comment, very few responded. A woman from Boucheron was one of the few who did respond, and she and Victoria spoke about AI, 3D printing, and more. Victoria will explain the collision between high jewelry and mass jewelry and what she sees as the democratization of jewelry, largely due to the development of our online world. What A Digital Future Could Look Like While she was researching this topic, Victoria spent time thinking about a world in which jewelry is primarily digital. A digital world of jewelry could mean we all have avatars and digital skins, but it could also mean owning digital-only jewelry. Victoria and Rob briefly discuss NFTs (non-fungible tokens). NFTs are driven by cryptocurrency, and you can buy jewelry, real estate, art, and other big-ticket items that only exist as a unique entity whose sale is minted on a digital ledger. Victoria deep dives into what NFTs are and how they work, and why high luxury brands are wary of them. Tiffany Announces Engagement Rings For Men Tiffany & Co. has announced its offering diamond engagement rings for men. While the company is not the first to offer men these rings, it joins a trend in the jewelry industry toward gender neutrality. Rob explains how prior to World War II, men did not receive wedding rings at all, so America has come a long way in its jewelry offerings. He also mentions the bittersweet removal of Tiffany’s A3 ad in the New York Times. Victoria and Rob also explore the difference between the diamonds on Tiffany's men’s and women’s diamond rings. The Sanctions On Burma Rob and Victoria wrap up the podcast with a more serious topic: the U.S. sanction on Burmese products. For a long time, Burmese rubies were banned in the United States. Earlier this year, the country underwent a military coup, and now the United States has instituted sanctions against Burmese jade, ruby, and pearls. Some say the original ban wasn't as effective at hurting the military as the U.S government planned, but it did largely affect those small artisanal diggers who depend on mining for their livelihood. Rob says not only will all of these sanctions affect the colored stone industry, but they will also bring into question jewelers' sourcing.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates interview Christina Miller, owner and founder of Christina T. Miller Sustainable Jewelry Consulting. Show Notes 00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Christina Miller, founder of Christina T. Miller Sustainable Jewelry Consulting.06:09 Christina discusses her first company, Ethical Metalsmiths.15:27 You'll hear the very first step you can take to become sustainable.19:26 Christina argues that claiming you use recycled gold is not enough to be considered sustainable.23:33 Victoria asks if Christina is hopeful about sustainability, and Christina says we have a long way to go. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: christinatmiller.com, jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Christina MillerAn expert on sustainability and sustainable sourcing, Christina Miller is the owner and founder of Christina T. Miller Sustainable Jewelry Consulting. From 2004 to 2015, she led the nonprofit organization Ethical Metalsmiths, which she cofounded. Today, she’s calling in from the village of College Corner, Ohio. Perhaps not a hub for jewelry, College Corner does happen to be a place where international activities on responsible sourcing and sustainability occur (right from her home office!). Christina comes from an academic art background and always wanted to be an art teacher; she earned bachelor's and master’s degrees in jewelry and metalsmithing. Ethical Metalsmiths Around 2005, Christina and her Ethical Metalsmith cofounder, Susan Kingsley, gave a talk on sustainability at a conference put on by the Society of North American Goldsmiths. Though this concept is commonplace in our jewelry industry now, their ideas were not well-received 16 years ago. Early on in her career, large-scale mining really made an impression on Christina. She's been concerned with the way we pushed aside Native Americans and eradicated groups of people to obtain our raw materials. Christina explains who Ethical Metalsmiths originally aimed to inform, and how the industry changed over the next 11 years after she formed the organization. How to Become Sustainable Since her days in Ethical Metalsmiths, Christina has been working with retailers, designers, and civil society organizations on sustainable practices. She encourages people to look inward and to work within their own belief system. First, you should think about the impact you would like to have, and then work to pursue sourcing that matches those values. Christina says ethical jewelry sourcing lies in the relationships we have with people all along the supply chain. Sustainability is a journey, and while we may be shortsighted when we start out, we learn to to be more ethical as we become more educated. Why Recycled Gold Isn't Enough Christina encourages people to reconsider how highly they tout their use of recyclable gold; companies shouldn’t be making claims that they can’t substantiate. We need to be doing more than just using recycled gold. Christina argues that all gold is really recycled, as all the gold that has ever existed lies somewhere on or within our planet. Using recycled gold is a start, but there’s so much more that has to be done in order to be considered sustainable. We Have a Long Way to Go Victoria asks Christina if she’s hopeful about things like blockchain, and if it is critical in understanding where our gold is from and how it got to us. Christina says that blockchain and the like help create a more transparent cycle of information between miner, purchaser, refiner, and end purchaser. But benefits should be felt throughout the supply chain in order to have sustainability in the industry. Christina says we owe it to the people whose countries we’ve been removing materials from for centuries to do better. There is a lot of work to be done. Photo courtesy of Christina Miller

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about industry departures, Rocksbox, and Watches and Wonders Geneva. Show Notes 00:30 Victoria and Rob are excited for JCK Las Vegas. They also mourn the loss of two extraordinary women in the jewelry industry.08:04 Mark Smelzer, longtime publisher of JCK, departs the company.11:11 Rob talks about Signet's acquisition of Rocksbox, and his concerns about company consolidation.18:27 Victoria talks about Watches and Wonders Geneva.20:26 There's a new sustainable watch coming to the market in 2022. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap JCK Las VegasVictoria and Rob talk about getting their COVID-19 vaccines, followed by Victoria excitedly sharing that she just booked her hotel room for JCK Las Vegas, which runs Aug. 24–Aug. 30. She’ll be at the Palazzo and can’t wait to see everyone there. On a sadder note, Victoria and Rob take a moment to honor the extraordinary women in the jewelry industry who have passed away over the last few weeks: Elsa Peretti and Alex Woo. Mark Smelzer Leaves JCKIn other news, Mark Smelzer, who was JCK’s publisher for 17 years, has taken another job, with Jewelers Mutual Group as chief content executive. Victoria and Rob both share memories they have of Mark, and congratulate him on his new job. Signet’s Acquisition of RocksboxSignet has taken over Rocksbox, a subscription service that caters to the serious jewelry fan. Subscribers get three pieces of jewelry for $21 a month. The average three pieces cost about $150 in total, and the company sends subscribers two items they selected and one surprise. The surprise element makes this business model one of discovery. Rob spends a bit of time talking about the negatives of businesses consolidating. Watches and Wonders GenevaThis podcast was recorded on April 7, which was the opening day of Watches and Wonders Geneva. Just like last year, the event was all virtual. Thirty-eight brands participated this year. Victoria discusses some of the new models that were expected this year based on all the press releases she received. A Sustainable WatchVictoria also mentions the Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID, which she wrote about for the New York Times. The timepiece is a concept watch that’s due to come out in 2022 with a limited release of just 30. A big selling point of this watch? It’s made from 98.6% recycled material—a record in the industry. Panerai also used nine external suppliers, a fact that it publicized in its press release. It's not typical for Swiss companies to share who their materials come from, so Panerai doing so signals a new effort toward sustainability.

In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Madeline Fraser, founder and CEO of Gemist. They'll be discussing her entrepreneurial spirit, how she started her company, and how she views the jewelry industry as a former outsider. Show Notes 00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Madeline Fraser, founder and CEO of Gemist.04:04 Madeline explains how she started Gemist.09:46 Gemist has evolved over the years to include fashion jewelry.15:43 Rob asks Madeline about her marketing strategy; Victoria asks about AR technology.19:24 Madeline gives her take on the jewelry industry, and recounts a meeting she had with De Beers. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Madeline FraserVictoria and Rob introduce their guest, Madeline Fraser, founder and CEO of a direct-to-consumer company called Gemist. Last year, JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind wrote that Gemist was like the Warby Parker of jewelry. Madeline tells her story of becoming an entrepreneur, which begins with her starting her first business in college. She created the very first online interior design company. Her idea got her a spot on Shark Tank and ended up being developed into a platform called Hutch. She then explains how her engagement to her then-fiancé sparked her to start Gemist. What Is Gemist?Madeline explains how she started Gemist. First, she noticed a hole in the jewelry industry: There weren't any companies that allowed you to design your own piece of jewelry online. She figured out the market, who Gemist's competitors were, how big the industry was, and what problem it was looking to solve. What makes her company stand out? Customers can not only create their own jewelry pieces online or in the app, but also try the pieces out at home before they buy them. How Gemist Has EvolvedWhile Gemist originally started out as a brand revolving around creating your own custom engagement ring, the company has evolved into selling fashion jewelry as well, including rings and earrings. This expansion of the inventory was at the request of customers who loved being able to create engagement rings but wanted more diversity. Rob asks Madeline about security risks with potential customers trying out the jewelry at home, and she explains how her customers get a replica product. Victoria asks about what the reaction was to her company from investors and Silicon Valley, and Madeline explains the challenges of getting investors interested in the jewelry industry. Marketing and AR TechnologyVictoria asks if Madeline has seen any men shopping for themselves despite Gemist being a female-centered company, and she says yes. Rob then asks about marketing, and Madeline explains how affiliate marketing has especially worked well for them. Victoria asks Madeline about AR technology, but Madeline doesn’t think the tech is fully developed yet, and believes AR still needs to catch up with itself before she incorporates it into Gemist. The Jewelry Industry Through Entrepreneurial EyesVictoria asks Madeline what she believes entices people into a store, keeps them there, engages them, and drives them to make a purchase. You'll hear her answer that question, and then explain how the jewelry industry and the furniture industry, where she started, are pretty similar in that they’re pretty fragmented. Madeline says the thing she was most surprised about was the supply chain, and how intricate the manufacturing of jewelry was. Madeline also describes a call she had with De Beers where she pitched to all of the company's C-suite executives and top stakeholders.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batestalk about gender in the watch industry, secondhand jewelry and watches, and a new sustainability certification for diamonds. Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob take a second to review this busy month.02:15 Victoria notices the watch industry’s disapproving reaction to the category of women’s watches.09:00 Gendered products are outdated. Rob and Victoria explore how marketing such products has failed.12:13 Secondhand jewelry and watch sites are plentiful. Rob talks about authentication and sustainability.14:35 Rob recently wrote about the language surrounding lab-grown diamonds, and discusses the new criteria a producer must meet to be considered eco-friendly. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap A Busy March It’s mid-March! That means it's daylight saving time. We’ve set our clocks forward in preparation for more hours of sunshine. But that’s not the only marker of time. This time last year, the first COVID-19 lockdowns were just starting across America. We’ve come a long way since then. Another March event? Women’s History Month. And that takes Victoria’s mind to watches. Women Aren’t MonolithicVictoria wrote an article for the New York Times for International Women’s Day both this year and last. When she wrote last year’s article, she spoke to Kathleen McGivney, CEO of RedBar Group, who told her there are so many categories for men’s watches, but when it comes to women’s watches, there is just one category. She made the point that women are not monolithic, and the industry has been missing that fact. This year, Hodinkee published a piece making the argument that all watches should be unisex. The Failure of Watch AdvertisementsRob says when you go online, watches are advertised as these macho, masculine pieces. Victoria agrees: In advertising aimed toward women, models are scantily dressed and posing in their watches. In advertising aimed toward men, men are skiing, climbing mountains, and using their watches as tools, not just as accessories. Advertising for women just shows how they can be sexier, which doesn’t necessarily reflect what women actually want. The industry's marketing toward women is outdated. In other watch-related news, Rob reports that Hodinkee bought Crown & Caliber, the secondhand watch site. He’s interested in Hodinkee's move from a watch site into the e-commerce realm. Secondhand Sites Rob wonders about secondhand watch sites: Are there too many of them? Can the market handle them all? Victoria counters by asking when the jewelry industry will follow suit. Rob points out that the real problem with secondhand jewelry sites is getting the pieces authenticated. eBay is one place trying to grown its certification processes. Rob says people's desire for secondhand jewelry and watches comes from their interest in sustainability. Lab-Grown Language On the topic of sustainability and eco-friendliness, Victoria mentions an article Rob recently wrote about lab-grown diamonds and sustainability. Rob explains his article. About two years ago, the FTC started cracking down on language in the lab-grown diamond sphere. The Lab Grown Diamond Council enlisted SCS Global Services to find out what it would actually take to be eco-friendly. This started a movement to develop criteria for companies to meet to be considered eco-friendly. Rob says we still don’t know how much electricity it takes to make lab-grown diamonds, and that data needs to be solidified in order to determine if lab-growns can be carbon neutral. When this is done, certain brands can be set apart from the rest as truly sustainable.

In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batestalk with Alexander Lacik, CEO of Pandora. They discuss how Alexander got into the jewelry industry, the trouble Pandora was having back in 2017 and how the company has been working to recover, and the effect of COVID-19 on its e-commerce business. Show Notes00:52 Victoria and Rob introduce guest Alexander Lacik, CEO of Pandora.04:35 Alexander details the trouble Pandora was in before he came aboard.10:03 Rob asks Alexander why he thinks Pandora charms took off in the first place.11:47 Alexander is asked about the company's efforts to market to Gen Z.13:54 Victoria asks about Pandora’s e-commerce initiatives, and then they talk sustainability. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Alexander LacikAlexander is the CEO of Pandora. Before moving to Pandora, Alexander worked with a range of brands including Pringles, Vicks, Always, Olay, Pantene, Lysol, Woolite, Head & Shoulders, and more. After moving back to Sweden with his kids, he ended up working with Britex for a while before Pandora knocked on his door. He was excited to work with Pandora because it was an international brand, and he liked working with a company based in a different locale. In Hot WaterRob asks Alexander if, since he has worked on so many brands, Pandora is his first that is a discretionary category. Alexander says jewelry is more of a luxury item than other brands he’s served, but marketing any product is similar in some ways. Pandora was having some trouble in 2017, and that’s when it approached Alexander. Pandora's cardinal issue? Fixing its brand relevance as it had lost touch with its core audience. After a study with 30,000 people, Pandora realized product design wasn’t an obstacle. The problem was that the brand had lost a bit of its clarity and needed to redefine what it stood for. Standing the Test of TimeRob asks why Pandora took off in the first place, and why its charms continue to strike a chord with people. Alexander clarifies that Pandora did not create the idea of charm bracelets; they’ve been around for thousands of years. He says that it's hard to determine why things become relevant in pop culture, but that marking milestones and celebrations in one’s life with a charm is what really drew people to the company. Now, Alexander says, Pandora is in a much better position than it was two years ago. Who’s the Audience?Rob asks if it’s important for Pandora to pull in younger consumers. Alexander says women are the biggest buyers, particularly those between 25 and 40 who have a large disposable income. But he believes that by 2030, 30% of jewelry will be bought by Gen Zers. Pandora is currently working to figure out what the difference is, if any, between marketing to millennials and Gen Zers, while still staying relevant to the market at large. E-commerce Solidification and SustainabilityVictoria asks about the impact of COVID-19 on Pandora’s e-commence business. Alexander says the company used to have 16 different e-commerce platforms globally, so the problem that it encountered was that if it wanted to upgrade something, it would have to do it 16 times over. Now, Pandora is working on shrinking the number of e-commerce platforms it has until it gets to one global platform. Victoria asks what issues Alexander is laser-focused on for the future. He says that Pandora wants to be more successful in China. He also thinks the digital transformation we've been seeing will continue. They all finish up the conversation by talking about sustainability: By 2025, Pandora plans to be carbon neutral and working with recycled precious metals. (Photo courtesy of Pandora)

In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with John Ferry, the founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth. He'll tell us all about his mining efforts in Madagascar and the beautiful demantoid garnets found there. Show Notes00:30 Introducing John Ferry, founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth.06:51 John explains how Prosperity Earth tries to give back to the local community08:17 Victoria asks John to explain the significance of demantoids.12:31 John tells us all about the mine.15:39 Rob questions if mining can have a positive impact on the community in which it occurs.19:03 A few more fun facts about Madagascar. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing John FerryWith most of the Tucson gem shows cancelled, Victoria and Rob will be bringing a little bit of the gem world to you as they introduce their guest, John Ferry, the founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth. John is based in Greenwich, Conn., while his mining company is based in Madagascar. Originally working on Wall Street, John later turned his entrepreneurial spirit to Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world, which he's now visited around 65 times. Starting out with a chocolate and vanilla business, he soon turned his endeavors in Madagascar to mining. All About Giving BackJohn says creating prosperity is his No. 1 goal, hence the name of the company. And with that comes a component of giving back to the community. That's done by reinvesting in the people who work for his company and the community in which they work. But giving back also includes an environmental factor. There's a high level of interdependency between the people of Madagascar, the planet, community relations, and environmental development. What Are Demantoids?Victoria tells us that she's holding a demantoid garnet of John's and asks him to explain why it's so special. He tells us a demantoid garnet is 10,000 times rarer than a diamond. Its signature features are its fire and brilliance, which John believes make it the most beautiful of all the colored gems. Comparing Madagascan demantoids to ones from Russia, John believes his are better because of their sharp and clean crystallization. Victoria asks John about his deposit supplies in the mine, and Rob asks him about how he plans to get the word out about demantoids. Origins Of Madagascan DemantoidsRob asks John how he found out about the mine, how long it took him to get set up, and how deep it is. The mine has been around for about 10 years. John explains how he knew an Italian geologist, Dr. Federico Pezzotta, who stuck with the deposit to study it and establish the potential of the location. Right now, Prosperity Earth is only mining down about 15 to 18 meters-but it should eventually go down to around 200 to 300 meters. Madagascan demantoid is anywhere from 30 to 50% the cost of Russian demantoid. John says he wants to democratize demantoid, making it accessible to designers. The Impact Of MiningBeyond the mining level, Prosperity Earth has a 10-plus person gem-cutting team that does precision faceting. The gem-cutting process is responsible for job creation, making Madagascar not just the origin of the rough gem crystal, but also where the value addition takes place. Rob plays devil's advocate and asks if mining can really have a positive impact on local economies. John says yes. But he also differentiates between various types of mining operations. Colored stone mining is a small-scale business, which he says works to give back to the community. A Little More About MadagascarRob asks about Madagascar as a developing country, and John explains how per capita GDP works. Victoria then asks where the mine actually is, and we learn that it's in northern Madagascar, across from the famous tourist island of Nosy Be. While John doesn't speak the local language, because it has over 10 dialects, he's been able to pick up some phrases and sentiments. John says it takes him 24 hours door-to-door to travel there. In the U.S., Prosperity Earth is focused on wholesale sales and marketing of demantoids-and he says the company will be present at upcoming trade shows.

In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury by JCK shows in August, Inauguration Day jewelry, and the De Beers Ten/Ten collection. Show Notes 00:30 JCK’s shows have been moved to August: What can we expect?03:20 Pearls are having a moment and really took the spotlight in January.06:58 Rob recaps the holiday reports.09:44 Victoria talks about e-commerce and fun ways to shop digitally in the future.13:56 De Beers recently released its Ten/Ten project, and Victoria dishes about her favorite rings in the collection.17:56 Something unexpected happened in the art deco world at the Paris haute couture showings. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap New Dates for the JCK ShowVictoria and Rob recorded this podcast during the last week of January, and they talk about how long the month felt. They also discuss the overload of webinars and online events they’ve been seeing. Because of so many things being online, Victoria and Rob are viewing the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury by JCK shows now scheduled for August as a welcome break. Victoria predicts pearls will be the strongest category at the shows. Why Pearls?Pearls have taken the spotlight so far in 2021. They made a big splash at the inauguration, where Vice President Kamala Harris and many others were seen sporting the opulent beauties. Harris wore a pearl necklace by W.Rosado, but she’s also known to wear black pearls. There was even a Facebook group devoted to wearing pearls in the days before the inauguration. Rob reflects on what Barbara Bush and Nancy Pelosi did for pearls. Rob and Victoria also discuss the jewelry that Amanda Gorman was wearing, and the Rolex that Biden was wearing. Holiday ReportsVictoria asks Rob about what he makes of the holiday reports he's seen and what they mean for the state of the industry. There were mixed expectations, and mixed results, but overall Rob thinks the holiday season went pretty well. The season may not have been what retailers hoped for, but it was definitely promising, all things considered. They also reflect on which business practices are probably here to stay in 2021. E-commerce in 2021Victoria attended a virtual retail innovation conference by PSFK, a New York–based trend casting agency, and she fills us in on what she learned. One of the things Victoria took away from the conference was that retailers need to make things easier and more accessible for customers, especially at checkout. The conference hosts also spoke about how to get people just as excited to shop in stores as they are to shop online, and there are some interesting ways people have tried to replicate that experience. Rob and Victoria make the case for consumers having fewer choices when shopping versus having unlimited choice. De Beers and Ten/TenDe Beers worked with Blue Nile and a collection of 10 designers to create its newest project, Ten/Ten. The designers were chosen to create wedding jewelry that is now being sold on Blue Nile, in a limited collection of 10 rings per designer. All the rings are priced around $4,000, and all the diamonds used were from Botswana. Victoria discusses how engagement rings are changing from something sacred to something that can be switched and upgraded (read: more money over time). Victoria also points out her favorite rings from the collection. Paris Couture ShowingsEnding the podcast, Victoria talks about the high jewelry collections from Boucheron and Chanel that were seen at Paris Haute Couture Week. She specifically emphasizes a collection from Boucheron, which put an incredible spin on art deco with geometric shapes. The most interesting thing about it? Boucheron modeled the pieces on men.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America. He’ll tell us how he got into the watch industry; highlight the importance of innovation and a digital-first, data-driven movement; and give his thoughts on the watch industry going into 2021. Show Notes00:25 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America.03:34 Jeffrey drives home the importance of the brand itself over country of origin.05:50 2020 forced Jeffrey to become even more digital-first with his brands than ever before.11:17 Disney, Marvel, Frank Sinatra, and the Grammy Awards: Jeffrey shares watch news on all.14:53 Jeffrey reveals what Citizen Watch America's data is saying about its watch brands.19:16 Victoria wonders if trade shows will be returning in the future. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Jeffrey CohenVictoria and Rob introduce their guest, Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America. He’s been in that role for over a decade now, and he oversees not just Citizen Watch America but a total of five brands, including Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frederique Constant. His father owned a high-end luxury retail store, which first got him interested in watches, and in 1982, he became a regional sales rep at Movado. In 2010, he joined Citizen. What’s In A Name? Rob asks about the name Citizen, and Jeffrey explains its importance: having a watch for all people to enjoy. Rob asks if working for a Japanese company is any different from working for an American one. Jeffery says no and emphasizes the importance of the brand over country of origin. He most greatly values innovation, and tells the JCK editors about a watch’s movement that was just 1 mm thick and the innovation that went into creating it. Digital-First OperationsJeffrey says that his consumers easily transitioned to online purchasing, but also explains what his company needed more of to make its website work. Victoria also asks about Jeffrey’s direct-to-consumer ambitions, and Jeffrey explains how Citizen has become a digital-first brand. The terminology it uses is "Citizen First," where its consumers get the best experience possible. Jeffrey then explains how he keeps his brands separate. Collaboration With Disney and MarvelVictoria asked how the Swiss brands Alpena and Frederique Constant are doing, and Jeffery explains how Alpena and Frederique Constant's independent retailers did very well during the holiday season. Victoria also asks what we can expect to see from Citizen this year. Jeffrey talks about its collaborations with Disney and Marvel, as well as innovation coming out of the Bulova brand and its Frank Sinatra collection. He also discusses the upcoming 2021 Grammy Awards and Citizen's involvement. Data, Data, DataJeffrey says Citizen has been using data for years now, but that the pandemic really pushed it to become a digital-first company. CRM is what it primarily uses to create additional sales for the company. Jeffrey says the watch industry's consumer is getting younger, and for Bulova, its Latino community of consumers is growing. Rob then asks about the gray market and how that affects the business. Will Trade Shows Return? Victoria asks about what used to be Baselworld and the show model that 2020 disrupted, and if Jeffrey thinks we’ll be returning to that model in the future. Jeffrey says it’s hard to predict when trade shows will be back up and running—but he thinks it’s a question of expense. Rob asks about smartwatches, and Jeffery says that his watches provide style, design, and quality that people are still looking for. They talk a tad about the appearance of a Bulova watch on the popular Netflix show The Queen’s Gambit. And Jeffrey tells us what sold-out watch he’s wearing right now.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batestalk about the trends in 2020 that will continue into 2021. E-commerce? Probably here to stay. They’ll also be covering a Weird Story of the Week. Show Notes 00:30 Rob and Victoria wish listeners a Happy New Year and pick out what business strategies worked last year that might be here to stay in 2021.03:33 E-commerce looks like it’s here to stay.07:14 Victoria believes jewelry will join watches in the circular economy.13:07 Rob gives us a little insight to the new defense appropriations bill and what it means for the jewelry industry.16:10 Victoria touches on Pantone's Colors of the Year.20:05 This episode’s Weird Story of the Week will make you happy as a clam. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap What We Accomplished in 2020 Happy New Year! While we're facing plenty of uncertainties going into the new year, Victoria and Rob are hopeful. They acknowledge that we have all learned to embrace e-commerce and digital initiatives, and learned to work on the fly. Our Digital Future People think the adoption of e-commerce is here to stay. While we likely won't continue to do everything on Zoom, we will certainly keep some operations online, as we’ve learned to adapt to this new technology. Victoria says the circular economy is on her mind as we go into this new year—especially for gold and watches. She anticipates the circular economy will become more looped into e-commerce initiatives. The Circular Economy While watches have already been a part of the circular economy for some time now, Victoria believes jewelry will be added into the mix soon. Victoria tells us about Omnique, a jewelry site specializing in antique and vintage jewels that's already connecting old jewels to new owners. Rob mentions De Beers experimented with a trade-in service, but ultimately decided that the way to get best value for diamonds was to let consumers auction them online. A Move Toward Greater Transparency According to the new defense appropriations bill, financial institutions will be required to make their ultimate beneficial owner public. Rob has been listening to podcasts that differentiate the underground or shadow economy from our economy, but he points out that the underground economy is really just a part of our overall economy. Hopefully with this new legislation, there will be more transparency in the jewelry industry. Pantone Colors of the Year Victoria talks about the Pantone Colors of the Year: Ultimate Grey and Illuminating. While perhaps not the most obvious colors for the jewelry industry, they are bright and optimistic. Victoria ponders how these colors will be incorporated this year, and she suggests a few stones that may hit the mark. On that note, the JCK editors mourn Tucson not being held in 2021. Weird Story of the Week 2020 has come to a close. But don't worry, there's still plenty of weird to go around, and Rob supplies it with a new Weird Story of the Week. Gosman's Fish Market in Montauk, N.Y., offers a great cup of chowder, but you won’t believe what came out of a batch of clams. The cooks over in the market found a massive pearl, at 20 millimeters in diameter.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batestalk with Matt Stuller, founder and CEO of Stuller. They'll be discussing how Matt got his start in the jewelry industry back in high school, his 50-year-old business, and the history of the jewelry industry. Show Notes 00:25 Rob and Victoria introduce Matt Stuller, founder and CEO of Stuller.04:25 Matt explains how his company became one of the first to offer overnight delivery.08:40 Victoria asks Matt what has changed in the industry over the years.12:55 2020 has been quite challenging for the jewelry industry; Matt explains how his business came out OK.18:18 Rob asks about Stuller’s business model; Victoria asks what advice Matt would give to his 19-year-old self. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Matt StullerVictoria and Rob introduce their guest this week: Matt Stuller, the founder, CEO, and chairman of Stuller, who is calling in from Lafayette, La. Matt chats about how he started his company. Back in high school, he started working for a local retail jeweler. Matt then tells the story of the years that followed, from selling out of the trunk of his car, to becoming a traveling salesman all over the Southeast, to starting his own manufacturing company. Overnight Delivery Rob asks Matt about his company's name change, from Stuller Settings to Stuller, in the early 1980s. Matt then explains how he worked with FedEx to become one of the first companies to provide overnight delivery. Stuller really worked to speed up the supply chain in the jewelry industry at a time that it was slow, and Matt worked to make his company one that jewelers saw as reliable. Changes in the IndustryVictoria mentions that the Stuller facility is 600,000 square feet—but Matt emphasizes what matters is the service the company provides, and not the size of its building. Victoria then asks what in the industry has changed over the years. Matt says the industry's core value of celebrating life events has remained the same, but he thinks pretty much everything else has changed. He also recalls how jewelry stores used to sell luxury items other than jewelry, such as when Zales sold TVs. How 2020 Is Shaping Up Despite A CyberattackVictoria asks who Matt’s most successful customers have been this year. Matt believes the industry did very well as a whole, and that it had many great months in 2020. He also says people have to live with faster changes in our world or their businesses will risk suffering consequences. Matt says Stuller is doing better than it did the previous year, but it’s been the hardest year to date in its 50-year history, and that the worldwide supply change is badly damaged. They also briefly discuss the recent cyberattack on Stuller, but Matt is proud to say that the company was back up and selling in just four days, more quickly than it had anticipated. Business Model and Advice Rob asks about Stuller’s business model. Matt says its model of catering wholesale to independent retailers rather than to big accounts has been the same since the company's start in 1970. He emphasizes that he never wanted jewelers to feel like Stuller was their competition. Victoria asks what Matt would tell his 19-year-old self. Rob asks Matt what he sees as being the future of his business.

In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batesdiscuss Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and the upcoming holidays; Amazon battling it out for space in the luxury industry; and responsible gold sourcing in the watch industry. Show Notes00:30 Speaking on Cyber Monday, Rob and Victoria begin their discussion of holiday sales.05:15 Victoria dives into how retailers can improve their holiday season.09:58 Amazon has been vying for a spot in the luxury market. What does that mean for other jewelers in the category?15:05 Responsible gold sourcing in the gold watch industry takes the spotlight.22:44 Some companies prefer to keep their gold sourcing hushed, but Rob and Victoria give sources for those that want to do better. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and "Zoom-worthy" JewelryVictoria starts out by reporting on the passing of a beloved member of the jewelry industry, William "Lecil" Henderson of the Henderson Collection, and passes on her deepest condolences to his family and friends. Victoria and Rob then switch topics to talk about Black Friday and Cyber Monday sales, and more holiday sales to come. Rob thinks the forecasts for retailers are pretty good this season, and he tells us why consumers looking for “Zoom-worthy” jewelry could help drive sales—if retailers put in the work. A Labor of LoveVictoria picks up the question of how retailers can improve their holiday season sales and says that this is certainly a labor-intensive season for store owners. Some states are still allowing backyard or garden showings, which are intimate jewelry showings that have the potential to be very successful. While wholesale may be down for people like Mark Patterson, a designer in SoCal who Victoria spoke to, his retail has more than doubled for 2020. Rob and Victoria both encourage people to shop local to keep small businesses afloat. Amazon, Luxury Jewelry, and e-CommerceVictoria brings up e-commerce in the luxury space, and how it has been really heating up lately. Amazon has been trying to ramp up its luxury offerings, especially luxury fashion. Amazon Fashion is going up against Farfetch—the online luxury platform in which Richemont and Alibaba have invested—and LVMH". In 2020, the online luxury market has gone from taking up just 12% of the luxury market to 23%. Jewelers must have digital operations up to snuff. Gold in the Watch IndustryConversations around responsible gold sourcing have amped up because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Victoria recently wrote an article for the New York Times on responsible gold sourcing in the watch industry —which isn’t discussed as often as responsible sourcing in the rest of the jewelry industry. Despite growing consumer demand, Swiss watchmakers haven’t been more transparent about their gold sourcing, nor do they talk about where they get their raw materials from. Hushed PracticesRolex is a huge brand in the industry but won’t communicate about its sourcing practices. Rob discusses how recycled gold, while sounding good, may not be the best option either. Victoria and Rob end by giving resources for companies that want to start assessing their supply chain and sourcing their gold responsibly.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates interview Caryl Capeci, CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America. She'll be discussing the merger of her company with Hearts on Fire. You'll also hear her talk about what jewelry categories are especially hot right now for independent retailers, and what she fears about the lab-grown diamond industry. Show Notes 00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce their guest Caryl Capeci, CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America06:22 Caryl tells us how she has worked to help the Hearts on Fire brand grow11:35 Chow Tai Fook and Hearts on Fire have joined forces despite their differences, and Caryl explains how16:33 Three categories are doing especially well at independent retailers, and Caryl tells all19:47 Caryl expresses worry over the lab-grown diamond industry Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Caryl CapeciVictoria and Rob have Caryl Capeci on as their guest this episode. She’s the CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America, and also does work for Diamonds Do Good. She talks about how she fell into the jewelry industry, starting out at an advertising agency and landing herself on the De Beers account back when they were doing integrated marketing before anyone else was. She also explains why De Beers’ campaigns were so successful. Hearts on Fire LegacyCaryl left the De Beers’ account in 1999, and left the industry altogether when she married her husband and they moved to Massachusetts. Hearts on Fire was created in 1996, but Caryl didn't join them until 2007. She describes how she helped to build brand loyalty as they grew Hearts on Fire through connections with sales associates and independent jewelers. Rob asks why Hearts on Fire had more staying power than other brands. Marriage of Hearts on Fire and Chow Tai FookHearts on Fire acquired the wholesaler brand Chow Tai Fook in 2014. Victoria asks what kinds of changes Hearts on Fire has implemented during the past six years. Caryl explains that while the two companies are very different, they had a perfect marriage right from the beginning. Hearts on Fire is also selling in China, in 250 stores in the Chow Tai Fook network. Caryl also talks about her stay in Hong Kong at the peak of the country's first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. Categories That WorkRob asks Caryl if she sees any difference in consumer buying habits post—COVID-19. She highlights the fact that people want to give gifts with meaning and of lasting value, as they're especially appreciative of their loved ones and close friends that they haven’t been able to see. She says that watches, classic diamond jewelry, and bridal are three categories that are doing especially well at independent retailers. What About Lab-Grown?Victoria asks if the pandemic has reminded people of their community jeweler, and if the support of local retailers will carry through in future years. Caryl says yes. Consumers love the convenience of being able to purchase jewelry locally—if they are able to do research on the purchase beforehand. Victoria also asks about lab-grown diamonds and how she thinks they fit into this space, but Caryl expresses nervousness over the younger consumer target and the effect lab-grown diamonds will have on these younger purchasers 10 to 15 years from now.

In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the recent announcement that Lightbox will be selling on Blue Nile. They'll also be discussing the closure of the Argyle mine, and New York City’s upcoming Jewelry Week. Listen Now[EMBED] Show Notes00:00 Rob and Victoria discuss Lightbox and Blue Nile teaming up.04:55 Are lab-grown diamonds just for fashion, or are they fit for bridal wear, too?07:50 The Argyle mines are closing: What that means for the industry.10:00 Colored diamonds were a staple of the Argyle mines. Victoria and Rob talk color variety and nomenclature.16:32 Victoria discusses all the fun to come at the upcoming NYC Jewelry Week. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, ebay.com Show Recap Blue Nile x LightboxLightbox made a big announcement right at the end of October: It will be selling its product on Blue Nile. When Rob spoke to the CEO of Blue Nile earlier in the year, it seemed like the company was leaning toward partnering with the fashion brand, and now it’s official. This partnership is Blue Nile’s first lab-grown diamond brand. Rob argues that Lightbox, despite all the criticism, is offering a genuine attempt to differentiate themselves in the market of lab-grown diamonds. Are Lab-Grown Diamonds for Bridal or Fashion?Even though Lightbox debuted in 2018, Victoria argues that the market for lab-grown diamonds still has such mixed messaging on whether or not the diamonds are up to par with their non-lab-grown counterparts. She recently went to see Mark Patterson, a luxury jeweler, and he told her that his retail business this year is through the roof, and that he had his first bridal lab-grown diamond sales. Despite people starting to buy lab-grown diamonds for bridal wear, Blue Nile and LightBox are still advertising them as just fashion pieces. The Closing of the Argyle MinesOn Nov. 3, the Argyle mine in Western Australia closed after 37 years in the business. Victoria asks Rob what he thinks of the closure and what it means for the industry. Rob says that the industry originally viewed what came out of the Argyle mine as inferior, but the mine managed to create a market for middle-class Americans wanting to buy diamonds at a lower price, thereby “democratizing” the market. Colored DiamondsThe Argyle mine produced 90% of the world’s pink diamonds, and it also produced champagne and chocolate diamonds. Victoria talks about how the gems get their color. She also mentions the 2.83 ct. violet diamond that graced the cover of the July/August issue of JCK. Rob and Victoria discuss the interesting nomenclature of diamonds out of the Argyle mine and how Argyle worked to differentiate themselves. New York City’s Third Annual Jewelry WeekNew York City is holding its third annual jewelry week from Nov. 16 through Nov. 22, and for the first time ever you don’t have to be in New York to attend: This year’s jewelry week is all virtual, with 127 events happening online throughout the week. Victoria talks about “Here We Are,” a category intended to shed light on underrepresented communities in the jewelry industry, specifically people of color, women, and LGBTQIA+ members. Victoria also spoke with De Beers' Sally Morrison, who will be appearing on a sustainability-themed panel discussion, talking about the resilience of the jewelry industry this year.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates interview Satta Matturi, owner of the eponymous brand. She’ll be discussing her interest in the diamond business, which started from an early age, and how she made her way to create and design for her own brand. Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce Satta Matturi, owner of the eponymous brand.04:45 Satta talks about beneficiation in Botswana.07:20 With a father who worked for De Beers, Satta has always had an eye for diamonds, and she explains how she got her start.11:05 Satta is passionate about jewelry and draws inspiration from Africa for her designs.16:48 Rob asks Satta about her social media presence, and she enthuses about her new jewelry collection out this week. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Satta MatturiVictoria introduces today’s guest, Satta Matturi, designer and founder of the eponymous jewelry brand. She splits her time between London and Gaborone, the capital of Botswana; for this episode, she’s calling in from London. Satta was born in Sierra Leone, and her father worked for De Beers, so she says her family is synonymous with the diamond industry. Satta says that Sierra Leone used to be referred to as the "Athens of Africa," and she explains how she got her start as a jeweler. Botswana and the Diamond IndustryRob brings up that Satta now lives in Botswana, which, compared to Sierra Leone, is the poster child for beneficiation. But Satta says the two countries are so different it would be hard to even compare them. Satta tells us a little bit about beneficiation in Botswana and the headway they’ve made. Where She Got Her StartVictoria asks Satta if it was a foregone conclusion she would end up where she is now; she says it wasn’t and details how she went to school in London before ending up at De Beers. She started at that company as a trainee diamond valuer, beginning her training out on the production floors before moving to sales. She became a key account manager in London, quickly transferring to South Africa before going back to London and, eventually, on to India. African Ethos Turned Contemporary CreationSatta tells Victoria and Rob of her passion for jewelry, which led her to start her own jewelry brand. She wanted to identify the market for distinct fine jewelry that was different from the norm, and she drew inspiration from the African continent, where these precious materials come from, to make contemporary pieces with an African ethos. Rob also asks Satta for any advice she would give to someone starting out in the industry, and she describes three things she would have done differently. Social Media and a New CollectionRob asks Satta about her presence on Instagram and how she works to stand out. Since she didn't much capital when she started her business, she had to figure out how to promote herself on social media. Victoria also asks about her plans to debut her jewelry in the United States, and her work on a new African art deco collection that’s dropping this week.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about their recent publications, LVMH and Tiffany, and social commerce. You’ll also hear another installment of Weird Story of the Week, and this one involves a Real Housewives star.Show Notes Show Notes 00:30 Rob gives a sneak peek of his new novel A Murder Is Forever.03:15 Victoria’s new piece for the New York Times details the history of wristwatches.09:35 The LVMH/Tiffany schism comes as no surprise to Rob.14:23 Victoria will host a webinar on Wednesday that covers holiday 2020, and she discusses the importance of social commerce.17:55 Kyle Richards of The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills gets wrapped up in the Weird Story of the Week. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap 'A Murder Is Forever'A Murder Is Forever is Rob's first novel. It’s a mystery that's set in New York City's Diamond District. You’ll hear a little about the plot of the first book, which is available in paperback and e-book format on Tuesday. The Wristwatch At 100Victoria has a piece in Tuesday's in the New York Times, “The Wristwatch at 100.” It’s a cover story for an international watch section, and she reflects on the past 100 years of wristwatches going back to World War I veterans popularizing the style. Rob and Victoria also spend some time talking about watches of the '80s. LVMH-Tiffany BreakupLast year, Tiffany finally succumbed to the advances of LVMH, the biggest luxury conglomerate in the world, after it received an offer of $16 billion. In the past two months, LVMH has called off the deal after receiving a letter from the French government advising the company to back out. Rob explains why he didn’t think the deal was a very good one in the first place. Both companies have filed lawsuits, so we’ll just have to wait and see what happens come January. 2020 Holiday Season RetailVictoria will be hosting a webinar on Wednesday at 3 p.m. ET for JCK: “7 Ways the 2020 Holiday Season Will Be Different and What Jewelry Retailers Should Do About It,” in which she’ll explain the importance of Zoom consultations. In preparation for JCK’s webinar, she sat in on a webinar about social commerce, in which the presenters described how commerce isn’t developed for shopping; it’s developed for transactions. The shopping experience is hard to re-create, and Victoria explains how social commerce can help. Weird Story of the WeekRob tells a story about Kyle Richards, The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills star. On the “Secret Revealed” episode of Real Housewives, Richards leaked a new twist in her investigation of a 2017 robbery, in which she lost more than a million dollars of personal items. You’ll have to listen in to hear the incredibly strange way she ended up finding one of her lost pieces of jewelry.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Andrea Hill, CEO of Hill Management Group. Andrea says that in order to stand out in this ever-evolving jewelry world, your company needs a story. The trio also covers climate change and technology. Listen Now[EMBED] Show Notes00:26 Rob and Victoria introduce Andrea Hill, CEO of Hill Management Group.05:57 Andrea describes what the jewelry industry is missing, based on past retail management experience.10:15 Building a successful jewelry business is all about telling a story, and Andrea explains what jewelers need to do just that.14:20 Climate change is real, and Andrea tells us about the “Kindness Economy.”15:13 Andrea serves in a mentorship role and leaves us the pillars to success. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Andrea HillBased in eastern central Wisconsin, Andrea started her tenure in the jewelry industry at Rio Grande. Before she made it there, she worked in a billiards store that started selling video equipment, making her store one of the first video rental stores in the country, pre-Blockbuster. She also worked at Playboy Enterprises, building up their licensing for videos and creating a video catalog. She then bounced around companies as a CEO before landing in the jewelry industry. What The Industry Is MissingAndrea describes her company, Hill Management Group, where she helps people get ready for entering the digital age. You’ll hear her discuss what she has learned from other industries and what the jewelry industry should be taking away from them. She emphasizes that your jewelry company can’t just be the oldest around anymore, as people no longer have to settle for their neighborhood store for jewelry expertise. Jewelry Retail As Storytelling Andrea talks about need to have a rich content strategy. In order to develop your brand in the most efficient way possible, Andrea says you need to know who you are, what you do that makes you different, and why you matter in order to succeed—and that’s just the start. You then need to merchandise your store with products that fit that theme, and someone should always be creating new copy for your website. Kindness EconomyPost-recession, the vast majority of us have accepted that climate change is real and happening, and that something needs to be done about it. We need to be aware of the fact that we are not the center of the world, and other spaces and living things matter too. Andrea describes what she calls the “Kindness Economy” and what customers expect from the retailers they buy from. The Jewelry Industry Should Be Fun Switching topics to the mentor work Andrea does—she argues that mainstream jewelry has become far too generic for its own good. She once again emphasized the importance of your store’s story, giving an example of this in practice. Andrea concludes by telling us all to learn, try new things, experiment, and be willing to fail.

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the enduring influence of art deco, the decline of department stores, and the rise of virtual styling. They’ll also cover a Weird Story of the Week that involves an antique ring and an unhappy fiancée. Show Notes00:30 Victoria discusses her New York Times article on art deco.07:19 Department stores are seeing a decline, and Rob explains why.12:54 Victoria believes that jewelers should also work as stylists and discusses how this process is going virtual.17:59 Rob brings back the Weird Story of the Week segment with the tale of an unhappy fiancée. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Art Deco Is Here To StayRob introduces an article from the New York Times that Victoria wrote, “Art Deco at 100: Jewelry Can’t Get Enough.” She covers the enduring influence of art deco and explains that the century-old style isn’t really making a comeback. Art deco has never really gone away. Many jewelers have defined their whole aesthetic by revisiting or reinterpreting the style. Victoria talks about some of the deco looks she’s most interested in. Brick-And-Mortar DeclineDepartment stores are on Rob’s radar right now, and he discusses how they are having huge problems. The big icons of American retail are suffering due to online shopping. Victoria asks Rob if there are any department stores that he sees plateauing or declining, and Rob emphasizes how those serving the middle class are suffering the most. Victoria delves into the omnichannel approach, and Rob raises what the decline of department stores means for jewelers. The Jeweler As Stylist Victoria brings up how jewelers can work as stylists, and how they should consider themselves to be stylists in the way that they help customers figure out how to incorporate jewelry into their existing wardrobe. Victoria has previously spoken to the founder of The Jewelry Edit, who wanted to “move the jewelry box from the back of the closet to the center of the wardrobe.” You’ll hear about how this process is going virtual as people with expertise show clients how to best accessorize their look. Weird Story of the WeekRob brings back one of our favorite segments, Weird Story of the Week, with a story from a publication called In The Know. He recounts the proposal by a woman to her girlfriend, who said yes. All was fine until the proposed confronted her girlfriend and said she didn’t want the ring that her girlfriend had spent months picking out, but instead wanted her grandmother’s antique ring. Rob and Victoria talk about whether it's ever okay to request (or demand) jewelry from a loved one.

In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates interview Marla Aaron, jewelry designer and founder of her eponymous brand. They’ll be discussing Marla’s rise as a self-taught newcomer in the jewelry industry and how she built her online presence and jewelry business from the ground up. Listen Now[EMBED] Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce New York City–based jewelry designer Marla Aaron.06:27 Victoria asks Marla how her background has affected her launch into the world of jewelry.11:43 Marla describes some of the more unconventional things her business has done.15:06 They discuss Instagram and Zoom as tools Marla uses in her business.17:23 Marla discusses her Lock Your Mom project.19:16 Victoria asks about Marla Aaron’s new jewelry collection. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing Marla AaronVictoria and Rob kick off by introducing their guest Marla Aaron. She’s a jewelry designer based in NYC and known for her for her “emotional hardware”—her lock jewelry, which has been around since 2012. She had a 20-plus year career in marketing and advertising, but she’s always been obsessed with jewelry and hardware. She worked on creating jewelry for several years while holding onto her full-time job before leaping headfirst into the jewelry industry. She also recounts her fascination with hardware, which started in her youth, and historically traces back to the Victorian and Georgian eras. Marketing and AdvertisingVictoria asks if Marla’s background in marketing has at all affected her line of work, but Marla explains how much she is driven by her own passion, so much so that she says she has thrown out many things she believed to be an absolute truth in order to pursue her dream of designing jewelry. Marla explains how as a relatively new designer she put herself on the map. There were certainly some bumps in the road, but, luckily, Instagram was starting to take root at the same time, which helped her boost her company. Unconventional Business PracticeMarla Aaron is in about 40 stores around the world and has its own showroom in NYC. It's also opening a new showroom on 47th street in the next few months. The company doesn’t do consignment as it would limit Marla in what she could do. Marla describes some of the more unconventional things that her business does that makes it stand out. One of the most unconventional is its fine jewelry vending machine, and you’ll hear her describe this installation at the Brooklyn Museum. Self-Taught, Self-Built Online PresenceYou’ll hear Marla explain her company's online presence and talk about the second Instagram account that her customer experience staff runs. She also explains how she Zooms with her customers using two employees—one at the ready to show off the jewelry and one to answer questions. Her Instagram has 95,000 followers, so Rob asks what she thinks of influencers and if she believes jewelry owners are becoming their own sort of influencer. Lock Your Mom ProjectVictoria asks how the pandemic has been for her, and Marla explains how on March 11 she sent all of her staff home, and since then has implemented daily 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. Zoom calls to keep up. You’ll also hear Marla explain her Lock Your Mom project, where every year her company gives jewelry to single moms who might be feeling bittersweet on Mother’s Day. The sterling silver heart lock has an explanation point for the exclamation of motherhood. New Jewelry To Look Out ForRob asks what has been driving Marla Aaron jewelry to flourish during this time, and Victoria asks Marla about her new fall collection. Marla explains how excited she is for the September 15 release of the collection. An enormous departure from what it normally does, the pieces have a new lock function that she has been working on for three years and other pieces that are outside her wheelhouse. Rob asks Marla as a newcomer what she thinks needs to be changed in the business, and Marla explains how she thinks accessibility is a problem.

In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discussing last week’s JCK Virtual Show. There’s much to go over for this first-of-its-kind event for JCK, and Rob and Victoria, who were in on the action, have all of the insider commentary. Show Notes 00:31 Victoria and Rob discuss JCK’s Virtual Show04:10 Victoria chats about the trend talks she was involved in08:58 The entrepreneurial spirit is still at work in the jewelry industry, and Rob is impressed10:40 Living in a pre-COVID and post-COVID world14:04 A future of augmented reality may be approaching us. Victoria tells us about an experience she had with some new technology17:07 Rob and Victoria discuss the importance of your virtual presence Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap General Overview of the Virtual ShowVictoria and Rob discuss their experience with their first weeklong virtual show. One of the most convenient parts of it was that they were live—but could also be watched on demand. The Virtual Show also had talks from faces new and old. Rob mentions how he misses face-to-face interactions, and Victoria counters with how she appreciated using the chat function to talk to people she hasn’t been able to recently. Trend Talks and MoreVictoria led a lot of the trend talks with experts from across the board—from gemstone to bridal, from fashion to luxury. Rob also played his part in the Virtual Show by discussing The Industry Report with Yancy Weinrich. Victoria also explains her talk with Chris Walton, a retail strategist from Minneapolis, on his “Ways Retail Will Change Regardless of COVID.” Chris emphasized to her the value of experimentation and social commerce. The Entrepreneurial Spirit Is Alive and WellRob is impressed with innovation in the jewelry industry as it shows off its entrepreneurial spirit virtually. The Industry Trend results show that people who are committed to their company will embrace the coming changes and take the necessary steps to go virtual. Victoria notes that the Virtual Show was pretty optimistic, energetic, and enthusiastic overall. Sustainability and Overcoming CrisisThe Virtual Show focused on larger topics that still needed to be discussed, like sustainability. Victoria explains that she believes there will always be a “pre-COVID” and a “post-COVID” in our minds—but “post-COVID” encompasses so many necessary things in a slowly changing industry. Rob mentions that we’ve been able to come out of so many crises before in his lifetime, and Victoria wonders what this crisis means for the holiday season. The Future of Augmented RealityVictoria discusses a conversation she had with Max Moses, a Ukrainian “tech guy” from the company Atelar, on augmented reality. The technology was impressive—and Moses believes there is a future where we no longer have smartphones, but rather lenses with augmented reality capabilities. You’ll hear about Victoria’s experience using his technology. Keeping Up Your Virtual PresenceRob mentions the importance of new technologies like Zoom backgrounds in bringing up a larger conversation about appropriate dress and creating your virtual presence. Victoria discusses her camera readiness for the Virtual Show. Pivoting, Rob discusses how people will likely want to celebrate coming out of this crisis with new jewelry.