That's Not Real Climbing

Sam is only 17 years old, yet he has already won gold at a world cup, holds the speed climbing record in the US, and recently secured his Paris 2024 Olympic ticket at the PanAm Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll get more insight into speed climbing at the highest level, his experience at the PanAm Games, how he juggles personal life, school, and climbing, and we need your help in figuring out how he can up his social media game!Guest links:InstagramReference links:IFSC Ones to Watch InterviewLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction3:53 - When Sam started climbing7:21 - Is there an advantage to starting speed climbing younger?8:56 - Does speed climbing come naturally10:15 - Surprise! Speed Climbing is an endurance sport12:06 - PanAm Games experience19:39 - PanAm Village experience22:52 - World Cup season in relation to the Olympics25:14 - Do speed climbers get injuries?28:34 - Technical false start explanation37:17 - Breaking sub-5 and having a “clean” run41:51 - Strength cycle jail47:33 - Interest in doing non-speed climbing competitions?51:17 - Figuring out the social media game55:10 - Juggling high school and world cups58:22 - Non-climbing hobbies1:03:13 - Discord Q: Does speed relays have a future?1:05:37 - How to upload athlete info into the IFSC website1:07:29 - Discord Q: Who are your heroes?1:10:26 - Discord Q: Any weird speed ideas/formats to try out?1:12:04 - Discord Q: Do you do anything weird/unique in training?1:13:21 - Discord: How do you handle shoe selection for speed?1:17:15 - Memeing during an IFSC interview1:18:57 - Where to find Sam + Outro

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Campbell represents team Australia and is one of the Oceania region’s top competitors for moving onto the Olympics in the boulder and lead combined category. He also recently got elected to the IFSC athlete’s commission, so in this episode we’ll talk about causes he’d like to champion through that, what it’s like competing as an Australian, and he also opens up about his past struggles with eating disorders, as well as why he was partially missing in Olympic qualifiers in 2020.Guest links:InstagramReference links:The scariest comp fall EVERLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction3:13 - Past commentating experience7:46 - When Campbell first started climbing and competing10:17 - Transitioning from youth to adult15:14 - Growth as a climber19:17 - Recent Australian Boulder Nationals results!25:19 - The difficulties of being an Australian climber31:40 - Thoughts on how to grow the Australian team35:44 - What is the IFSC athlete’s commission39:00 - Causes to fight for in athlete’s commission44:00 - The issue of unfair routesetting48:34 - Personal experience with RED-S59:36 - RED-S differences between male and female climbers1:04:18 - Missing out on the 2021 Olympics1:11:35 - Excitement about not having to speed climb1:15:48 - Training plans after Oceania qualifiers1:19:22 - Discord Q: Are climbers are targeted by the government in regards to aboriginal heritage?1:23:03 - Discord Q: Thoughts on Eubank grading?1:24:42 - Discord Q: Being queer in the climbing community: how does it feel competing in countries where it's illegal?1:29:19 - Where to find Campbell + Outro

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Matt Groom is a freelance commentator best known for being the lead commentator at IFSC world cups. You may also find him hosting EpicTV Climbing Daily, writing for UKC, or commentating at other climbing competitions. There's a lot of talk online about Matt, and in this EXCLUSIVE interview we go over his response to criticism as well as his explanation for some of the mistakes caught on audio.Guest links:InstagramYoutubeReference links:Commentary box behind the scenes videoChaehyun Seo misclip commentaryEuropean Championships speed finals UkraineLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction3:50 - Not an IFSC employee7:20 - Journey to becoming the IFSC commentator13:24 - What does the commentators box look like18:08 - Behind the scenes of production/broadcast21:47 - Finding a co-commentator27:10 - The most difficult part of commentating30:14 - Approaching comments and online hate34:50 - Let's go through Matt Groom bingo!42:25 - Trying to inform new viewers and still keep old viewers engaged46:38 - What the IFSC does right51:38 - The REDS hot mic incident1:01:37 - Work outside of IFSC commentary1:05:50 - Proudest career moment1:10:39 - Commentating for non-IFSC broadcasts1:13:08 - In defense of fanboying over British climbers1:18:44 - Personal climbing goals1:21:07 - Climbing with World Cup athletes?1:22:17 - I just want to see Matt climb in a comp1:24:57 - Discord: Do you get much feedback from athletes?1:27:31 - Discord: Will Charlie Boscoe ever have a job that you won't steal?1:29:31 - Discord: In a dream world, what kind of broadcast tech would you like to have1:32:31 - Discord: We need to know the origin of sticky Sorato1:37:23 - Where to find Matt + outro

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Zoe is a program manager for GB Climbing and is an expert in organizing and running climbing competitions! Her FIRST world cup event was Edinburgh 2022 and it was definitely…eventful. She also has experience organizing paraclimbing competitions and Bern world champs. There’s much more going on behind the scenes of climbing competitions than you’d expect, so tune in to learn more about what it takes!Guest links: Email: [email protected] links: Contact Holds trying to retexture old holdsLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction4:37 - How to get into climbing event organization7:48 - How GB team + athletes make a living12:33 - The Edinburgh world cup disaster18:25 - Hopes of hosting another world cup21:10 - What a world cup event venue looks like26:10 - Indoor vs outdoor venues29:45 - Do national federations get guidance from IFSC for planning world cups31:51 - Organizing Bern world champs35:46 - How an ice hockey arena becomes a climbing center39:03 - Reigning in Adam Ondra41:15 - Bern did paraclimbing right42:23 - Organizing for paraclimbing47:28 - Paralympics!51:15 - Para accommodations to keep in mind55:11 - Anti-doping in climbing58:46 - Anti-doping testing1:01:14 - Drug use in climbing1:05:00 - Menopause and climbing?!1:10:06 - DISCORD: Why host world cups?1:14:02 - DISCORD: Environmental sustainability1:18:56 - DISCORD: Favorite/least favorite competitions?1:22:05 - DISCORD: Technical wall requirements?1:27:24 - How much does it cost to host a world cup?1:29:18 - Where to find Zoe + outro

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Allegra is a Youtuber, mental climbing coach, and co-founder of ClimbInFlow, which provides services for climbing mind training. She has experience coaching all types of climbers, from beginners to world cup youth athletes. She recently came home from coaching at the youth world champs in Korea, where she helped Geila Macia Martin podium in boulder and lead! Allegra has also competed a bit herself, competing in Swedish Lead Championships after only 2 years of climbing.Guest links:InstagramYoutubePsych CoachingReference links:Stefano Ghisolfi Self Compassion VideoGeila Macia Martin Youth World Champs Lead FinalsGeila Macia Matin Youth World Champs Boulder FinalsLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpIf you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction5:20 - Which climbing federations have climbing psychologists?7:54 - How climbing mixes with psychology13:26 - Learning self compassion from Stefano Ghisolfi17:21 - Anyone else relate to getting motivation from lack of self compassion?21:21 - Coaching at youth world champs27:00 - Sunk cost fallacy in climbing31:03 - Opportunity cost neglect in competition climbing39:52 - Psychological differences between youth and adult climbers41:57 - How to get over fear of falling47:49 - Fear of injuries53:13 - Is it worth it to overcome fear?59:01 - Is mental coaching even important?1:04:17 - Climbing in the Swedish Lead Championships1:07:13 - Women in competition1:12:09 - Gender gap in climbing1:18:07 - No such thing as fair in competition1:24:29 - Where to find Allegra

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may be familiar with Albert's old viral Youtube videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach (you're probably familiar with a lot of the speed athletes he works with!)Guest links: https://instagram.com/professorokhttps://youtube.com/@albertokayReference links:First beta break episodeAlbert commentating Chamonix speed finals 2023Albert’s memeSpeed Climbing Relay RaceTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction2:52 - What got you into comp climbing?6:39 - History of comp climbing + has it improved?10:24 - The beta break Youtube series14:37 - Copyright issues20:13 - World cup afterparties22:16 - Why speed climbing?26:08 - The difficulties of accessing a speed wall30:03 - Becoming a speed coach39:28 - Coaching at the world cups - imposter syndrome45:47 - Dealing with speed wall differences at different locations50:42 - Why are countries like Indonesia so good at speed climbing?52:33 - Speed climber intricacies58:46 - Speed climbing in the Olympics1:01:52 - The Salt Lake City vision1:03:47 - Personal speed climbing pursuit1:09:06 - Head to toe of injuries1:16:32 - Discord Q: What stops people from getting into speed climbing?1:17:56 - Discord Q: Did the 2020 combined format undermine acceptance of speed climbing?1:19:54 - Discord Q: Do you know what the outcome of the athletes commission will be for speed?1:22:59 - Discord Q: What's in the future for speed and formats?1:25:41 - Discord Q: What was it like to rock climb with Akiyo Niguchi?1:28:34 - Outro + where to find Albert

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports.Guest links:https://instagram.com/gracecrowlyeReference links:Classic Speed Climbing: VideoAdidas Rockstars: YT ChannelArco Rock Master: 2023 DuelPsicobloc: WebsiteTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction1:17 - Covid?!?!3:24 - Climbing for Australia as an American5:35 - How Grace got into climbing and competing8:18 - Making the national team after only 4 years of climbing12:01 - Competing in boulder vs speed14:51 - Deciding to focus on speed16:29 - What makes a good speed athlete?17:20 - Bad habits that need to be broken19:49 - How to train for speed23:30 - Can you train without a speed wall?27:42 - Does team Australia train together?29:21 - 2021 Visa Nightmare32:53 - Competing as a non-binary athlete34:50 - Would you prefer a separate, non-gendered category?36:52 - Do you feel accepted within the climbing community?38:54 - Reflecting on the 2023 season41:06 - Readiness for November competition43:54 - How The Olympics will impact 2024 World Cups47:37 - Upcoming goals?48:53 - Discord Q: Has it been hard finding coaches/walls?51:18 - Discord Q: Interest in speed bouldering?54:40 - Discord Q: Speed climbing outdoors?56:33 - Discord Q: Future of speed climbing + formats?1:02:46 - Outro

You may have seen a couple of Jonathan's viral Youtube videos lately, such as I trained like a pro climber for 6 months, where he opens up about his dream of becoming a professional competition climber and documents his journey of trying to make the Hong Kong national team. His effort is all the more impressive once you find out he only started climbing in 2019 and managed to send v11 after only 2 years.Guest links:https://www.instagram.com/jonathan_sin88https://www.youtube.com/@jonathan_sin88Reference links:Youtube video: I Trained Like a Pro Climber for 6 MonthsYoutube video: How I Made the National Team (speed)Timestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Introduction0:51 - Gumby to v11 in 2.5 years3:03 - What is considered "training" for climbing?3:55 - How did you stay mostly injury free?7:27 - Hong Kong climbing scene9:18 - Boulder or lead?10:22 - Trying to become a pro climber in 6 months14:49 - Did you have a coach? and my noob training Qs18:56 - Why don’t you share your training plan?21:15 - Try outs for the national team22:42 - How much lead training did you do?24:56 - How did you perform in lead?28:20 - How do you rest?31:46 - Your mental state during the competition?34:03 - Making the national speed team38:54 - Is there still hope for the national team in the future?46:41 - Difference between a “normal” climber and a pro51:50 - Why do you climb?56:25 - Discord Q: Experience difference between you and climbers who grew up climbing58:48 - Discord Q: How did you have the time and money to train?1:03:46 - Outro, find him on Youtube!

Maya is an outspoken IFSC volunteer + judge currently living in Japan who has helped out with world cups in Edinburgh, Morioka, and Hachioji. She has some great behind-the-scenes context into world cups, what team Japan is like behind the wall, and she has some spicy takes on the IFSC organization (even got blocked once by their social media)…Guest links:https://www.instagram.com/mayasoundsReference links:Japanese outdoor climbers Sachi Amma (@sachiamma) and team Rokdo (@rokdo_team)Timestamps of discussion topics0:00 - introduction4:16 - why she got into volunteering9:13 - how can other get involved in volunteering at world cups?15:51 - downgrading Yoshiyuki for stepping on a bolt18:02 - it’s not easy for Matt Groom22:37 - getting blocked by IFSC on social media25:17 - who is the IFSC?28:20 - the IFSC’s PR problem32:09 - has the Eurosport deal been positive?37:22 - full time athletes and money troubles41:28 - world cup prize money43:43 - why does team Japan’s make-up vary so much year to year48:04 - what makes team Japan so dominant?54:35 - addressing routesetter flack58:10 - how much experience do Japanese comp climbers have outdoors?1:02:02 - thoughts on Chaehyun’s skipped clip controversy1:08:39 - athlete quirks from isolation1:13:33 - favorite athletes?1:16:02 - English training for the Japanese youth team1:18:54 - where has Kai Harada been?1:20:07 - final thoughts, growing pains1:23:27 - outro

Thanks for tuning into the inaugural episode of the podcast! Niki is a routesetter with over 20 years of experience, setting for both commercial gyms and competitions. He’s known for setting “parkour-style” boulders that require creative movement rather than raw power. We’ll hear from him about what it’s like setting for world cup level climbers, how the IFSC chooses holds and setters, different competition formats, and how to improve the future of competition climbing. You can find the links below to follow along on his journey with BetaRoutesetting on Youtube or Instagram.Guest links:https://www.instagram.com/schniklashttps://www.youtube.com/@BetaRoutesettingReference links:The only climbing movie to watch: Stone MonkeyQ&A video about world cup setters: Q&AInterview with IFSC President: Marco ScolarisTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - introduction2:25 - how he got into routesetting4:24 - what it was like growing up within the climbing community7:10 - learning to love climbing again9:19 - tricky niki, the birth of parkour style climbing11:15 - my embarrassing lack of climbing knowledge, Johnny Dawes14:39 - response to routesetter criticism, he’s willing to fight17:26 - how to set for an elite level climber20:05 - are climbing moves getting too repetitive?21:40 - existential crisis, why are people interested in watching comp climbing25:58 - are there any unforgettable climbing moments?29:16 - how the IFSC chooses world cup setters35:47 - what’s missing from world cup coverage37:38 - IFSC holds39:00 - networking his way into the world cup41:39 - will we see the infamous spinning wheel climbing hold in a world cup?42:52 - setting rules that shouldn’t exist44:44 - how setters set for climbers who can climb harder than them51:40 - how to set for a broad skill differential, the Janja problem55:56 - future of routesetting trends1:02:27 - a unique team-based competition climbing format1:05:56 - what competition climbing needs in order to grow in popularity1:07:30 - IFSC was founded with the intention of bringing climbing to the Olympics1:11:45 - a new world cup idea1:14:57 - how to bring more money into climbing?1:18:05 - the takeaway, climbing is not set in stone1:19:55 - where to follow Niki’s journey!1:20:55 - outro

A brief description of what to expect from the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast