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The ever-endangered, ever-reborn Jewish deli

The ever-endangered, ever-reborn Jewish deli

People have fretted for decades about the end of Jewish delis — yet the food is more popular than ever. Here's a look at the past and future.

Headlines From The Times · Mario Diaz, Melissa Kaplan, Lauren Raab, Ashlea Brown, Gustavo Arellano, Shani Hilton, Rob Eshman, Megan Tucker, Shannon Lin, Mike Heflin, Marina Peña, Denise Guerra

September 29, 202118m 9s

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Show Notes

Bagels and lox, pastrami on rye and maybe a dollop of sour cream or applesauce on your latkes: The Jewish deli is a staple of American city life, and it’s delicious. But over the last decade, icons of the genre, from New York to Los Angeles, have shut down — even as the food itself has become more popular. So why are the delis disappearing?

Today we’re looking at the Jewish deli. It’s always been a nexus of tradition and assimilation, old country and new, with rugelach for dessert. Our guests: The Foward national editor Rob Eshman and Mort & Betty's chef and curator Megan Tucker

More reading:

In search of perfect pastrami: Your guide to the Jewish delis of Los Angeles

On Greenblatt’s Deli’s last night, guests waited for one final taste

The deli capital? It’s L.A.

Topics

jewish foodjewish delipastramivegan delijudaismfoodrestaurants