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TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight

TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast · Neely Quinn

September 22, 20141h 10m

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Show Notes

About Alli Rainey

Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not much of that in Ten Sleep) and needed to train to improve.

Since then, she's studied the art and science of training for climbing (rather than climbing to train for climbing) for herself and her clients, and she's successfully expanded her climbing horizons to steeper stuff. I know - I've seen her at the Motherlode in the Red ;)

What We Talked About
  • The most important things for climbers to do to get stronger
  • How everyone's needs are different, and how to train your personal weaknesses
  • Diet and body weight's role in sending hard
  • What to do on your off season, and how she's successfully sent hard routes after only climbing on her home wall
  • A lot more
Related Links Support The Podcast Listen and Review on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

Thanks for listening!