the Sharp End Podcast

On Tuesday, July 26, 2022, Taylor Fields needed to release some school stress so he chose to go rock climbing. He went out with his best friend to climb "The Odyssey" on the Sun Wall at Looking Glass Rock in North Carolina. The Odyssey is a 5 pitch traditional route that is rated 5.11- on Mountain Project. Let's just say Taylor didn't walk back to the car after this. Listen in to this episode to hear what happened and what Taylor learned from his accident. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This episode is brought to you by Rocky Talkies. Thank you to the American Alpine Club for the consistent support. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On October 6, 2021, Ryan and his climbing partner headed out to climb at a crag in North Conway, New Hampshire called Whitehorse Ledge. This climbing area is known for runout slab climbing. They had their eyes set on a nine pitch trad route rated 5.9. They loaded up their climbing racks and went for it. On pitch five of the climb, Ryan slipped. Listen to this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Rocky Talkies is the sole sponsor of this episode. Thank you to the American Alpine Club for the consistent support. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> $20 off Ski Babes training at www.skibabes.com with code SHARPENDBABES --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Aavron was on Mt Rainier when he slipped and fell, pulling his climbing partner down a slippery slope with him. During the fall, he was impaled by his ice ax. The surgeons said that packing the wound with snow saved his life. Using that resource was life or death to Aavron. By packing snow in his open chest wound, he was able to see his two boys and girlfriend again. Listen into this episode to hear what happened and what Aavron learned from this accident. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Thank you to Rocky Talkies for consistently sponsoring this podcast so I can get these stories out to you. Thank you to my two good buddies over at Primitive Gourmet for sponsoring this episode and thank you, as always, to the American Alpine Club for the consistent support. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> $20 off Ski Babes training at www.skibabes.com with code SHARPENDBABES --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Andrew has been sport climbing for around 10 years and wanted to get some alpine/mountaineering experience under his belt. He did a handful of mountaineering climbs leading up to this particular climb (one being Mt Whitney) and then he and his climbing partner set their eyes on Mount Baldy (aka Mount San Antonio), the highest peak in the San Gabriel Mountains in California, sitting at 10,064 feet. On January 19, 2019 he set out to climb this peak with his climbing partner and his Golden Retriever, Charlie. Listen into this episode to hear what caused Andrew’s 1,000 foot fall on this mountain and what he learned from this experience. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Rocky Talkies is the sole sponsor of this episode. Thank you to the American Alpine Club for the consistent support. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> $20 off Ski Babes training at www.skibabes.com with code SHARPENDBABES --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #playhardandbesmart

In today’s episode, I talk with Enji Cooper about what happened on Oval Peak with Glenn Block on the 8,800-foot mountain in the North Cascades of Washington state. This episode is a follow up from last month’s episode number 79. (Make sure to listen to episode 79 before listening to this one!) There were many questions that listeners had about some of the finer details of Glenn’s account. Tune in to hear Enji share their perspective of what happened and why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Ski Babes and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> $20 off Ski Babes training at skibabes.com with code SHARPENDBABES --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Glenn Block and his friend Enji set out to climb Oval Peak, an 8,800-foot mountain in the North Cascades of Washington state. At the time, Glenn was a novice hiker and admits he didn’t fully understand what he was getting himself into. As a result, he has many learnings from this experience. Being prepared and prepping for a hike like this is extremely important. What I admire about Glenn is that he’s humble enough in his personal mountaineering journey to share these learnings with you to minimize future outdoor accidents. Listen in to episode 79 to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe while on the road working a remote contract as Safety Manager for another wilderness survival tv production and while still recovering from knee surgery. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Arc’teryx and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND10 —> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND —>15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Rachel Pisula set out on July 29, 2020 on a pretty nice, mostly sunny day in Colorado to climb two fourteeners in the Sangre De Cristo Mountains about 3 hours from her home in Golden, Colorado. By this point in the summer, Rachel thinks she already hiked ten fourteeners with her dog, Emmett. She was feeling strong and confident. Her objective on this particular day was to climb Challenger Point and Kit Carson Peak in a day. Unfortunately, she got turned around on a tricky part of the hike and ended up needing a rescue. Listen in to hear Rachel’s full story and how her and her dog Emmett made it down. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe while being laid up from knee surgery. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Sterling Ropes, Swoop and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND —>15% off Swoop garments —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Clara was climbing at a local crag in Tennessee called King’s Bluff where she witnessed a free solo accident & was heavily involved in the rescue. The climber was out alone on a weekday, and her and her partner were the only other people at the crag. The climber that fell was climbing on an unestablished route and ended up being rescued via boat on the Cumberland River. A pretty interesting story and Clara definitely has some key takeaways to share with Sharp End listeners. Tune here to hear her story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe while being laid up from knee surgery. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Sterling Ropes and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On January 10th, 2020 Adam Campbell and his wife, Laura Kosakoski were skiing with their friend Kevin in the Mount Hector area of Banff National Park. Laura skied first, Kevin followed, as Adam approached the slope, he triggered a size 2.5 avalanche that pushed Laura into a terrain trap and buried her with over 12 feet of snow. Although Adam and Kevin were able to get to her, she never regained consciousness. She passed away from her injuries the next day. Adam has had to live with the grief and trauma of triggering the slide and losing his wife ever since. This episode was recorded LIVE at the American Alpine Club’s Annual Benefit weekend in Denver, Colorado on March 26th, 2022. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Sterling Ropes and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Tune in to episode 75 of the Sharp End Podcast to hear Joe Lovin share his story about a climbing fall he took in Clear Creek Canyon outside of Denver, Colorado. He talks about what went wrong and the important lessons he learned from his fall. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Bad fall, Broken face (Ep. 75) Tune in to episode 75 of the Sharp End Podcast to hear Joe Lovin share his story about a climbing fall he took in Clear Creek Canyon outside of Denver, Colorado. He talks about what went wrong and the important lessons he learned from his fall. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #playhardandbesmart #climbing #wildernessmedicine #podcast #outdoorpodcast #clearcreekcanyon #coloradoclimbing #climbingaccident

In this episode, Ken Wylie, author of the book “Buried,” recounts the horrific accident of La Traviata in Revelstoke, British Columbia. On January 20, 2003, thirteen people were caught in an avalanche while ascending the La Traviata West Couloir. Seven people died. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code THE_SHARP_END_PODCAST20 Check out Ken Wylie’s book BURIED. Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Mount Emerson is located in the Sierra Nevada in eastern California. It’s the 116th highest mountain in California. Christian and a friend set out to climb it and ended up spending an extremely cold and uncomfortable night out on the mountain side at 13,000 feet. Listen in to hear Christian’s learning from the unplanned bivvy. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 If you’re interested in reading one of Christian Kiefer’s novels, here are a couple of book titles: Phantoms, The Infinite Tides, and The Animals Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Kyle Broxterman was consistently climbing strong. He was stoked on pushing himself physically and to continue to push the grades. Kyle and a couple of friends went out to a new crag on Donner Summit outside of Lake Tahoe, California. It was a beautiful day, they climbed a few routes and then Kyle decided to attempt to onsite a slightly overhanging, lightening bolt crack. Listen in to hear why Kyle is taking a step back from letting his ego drive his climbing and how he is managing his recovery from a terrible fall. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club.

In late July 2016, Ed and three other climbers in his group were caught in a sudden storm on top of 180 foot, two pitch climb called ”Waves" in the Black Hills behind Rushmore. With estimated 50 mph winds, a dangerous plunging temperature, and golf-ball-sized hail, getting off the climb was a test of experience, concentration, and teamwork. Listen to the end of this episode to hear Desert Mountain Medicine’s Program Director Morgan Matthews (RN, CEN, WFR) talk about why Hypothermia is no joke. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Get 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Aaron and Ian are a father / son climbing team. Aaron is a teacher and Ian is a student and they both had summer break off. In June of 2021, they decided to take advantage of their summer break and head to Zion National Park, a climbing destination they try and go to at least once a year. Listen in to episode 71 to hear what went wrong and how they were rescued off this multi-pitch climb. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, CRUDE Conversations, and Desert Mountain Medicine. —> Nominate your favorite SAR team at https://americanalpineclub.org/rocky-talkie-award --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Nick, owner of Beta, wanted to learn how to multi pitch climb. He’d been climbing in a local indoor gym on a pretty regular basis for about three years. He went out with his climbing partner and someone they recently met who said he’d teach them how to multi-pitch climb. The three of them went out to Clarks Canyon to learn the basics. This is where the trip goes south. Listen into this episode to hear what went wrong and what Nick learned from this incident. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. I teamed up with Nick from Beta to do 3 giveaways. We'll do a giveaway every Friday for the next three weeks! Follow my instagram and facebook to learn how you can sign up! --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #PlayHardAndBeSmart #outdoorpodcast #wildernessmedicine #americanalpineclub #rockytalkie #backcountrymedicine #getoutside #beprepared #riskassessment #rockclimbing #firstaid #giveaway #AMGA

Foster and his two best friends were in the sport multi pitch climbing paradise that is El Potrero Chico in north eastern Mexico. It was their fourth visit to that climbing area and they had their eyes on a 15 pitch climb called ‘Devotion 5.11d.’ It’s a lesser known climb that is notorious for being a bit run out, hard for the grade, and chossy. Listen in to this episode to hear Foster’s account of his huge fall that resulted in a remote helicopter rescue. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, MyMedic and Desert Mountain Medicine. ---> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product at foursigmatic.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On June 26th, 2021, Tori and a few of her friends were feeling strong and decided to climb Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness in Colorado. The weather was forecasting classic Rocky Mountain afternoon thunderstorms so they got an early start. Knowing that this route was well in their ability level, they decided to go light and fast. Tune in to episode 67 to hear Tori tell her story of finding her edge on Ellingwood Ridge. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #PlayHardAndBeSmart #outdoorpodcast #wildernessmedicine #americanalpineclub #rockytalkie #backcountrymedicine #getoutside #helicopterrescue #helirescue #mountainrescue #searchandrescue #ellingwoodridge #laplata #gooutlight #ultralight #baclountryaccident

Four friends set off to climb Mount Rae. A 4.9 mile moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Kananaskis Improvement in Alberta, Canada that features a beautiful forest setting and is only recommended for very experienced adventurers. On the descent, one women slipped and fell and wasn’t able to self arrest in the snow. Ultimately, she pressed the SOS on her Garmin InReach and what ensued was a heroic heli rescue. Listen in to all four perspectives of this accident. Two of the women who were there, the rescuer and even the heli pilot all share their perspective from the day Vi broke her neck. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Matt and Trevor had plenty of experience hiking 14ers in Colorado, so when Matt's Dad was in Colorado visiting they decided to take him up Mt. Bierstadt so he could check off his first 14er to celebrate turning 70. On May 8, 2021 the group was nearing the top when weather changed dramatically from what the forecast had informed them of earlier. They suddenly found themselves (along with another group of hikers) caught in a lightning storm with extremely low visibility and rapidly dropping temperatures. We all will inevitably be faced with unexpected situations in the backcountry that require us to make decisions on the fly as a group. These situations require the use of that extra gear we keep with us "just in case.” In this episode, find out why Trevor and Matt learned the importance of planning for unpredictability and for planning for overnights. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, and Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode was edited by Podboarder. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Jes Scott and Erica Ellefsen set out to travel 80km from Mt. Washington to Flower Ridge over eight days. Their goal was to climb eight of Strathcona Park’s tallest and most remote mountains. Strathcona Provincial Park is the oldest provincial park in British Columbia, Canada, and the largest on Vancouver Island. They wanted a trip that was physically demanding but less scary than their usual mountaineering trips. Listen in to this episode to hear what went wrong during their traverse and how their Garmin InReach device was the tool they needed to get rescued. You can read more about this accident on Jes’s personal blog: https://webelongoutside.com/2020/08/a-long-traverse-in-strathcona-park-where-many-things-go-wrong/ This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, Wilderness Medicine Reference App and Desert Mountain Medicine. Sign up to win the Garmin InReach Mini on Instagram by tagging a friend AND sharing one thing you learned from this episode. I will do the drawing May 15th. Good luck! Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Jean and Ken summited Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the continental US, on what they thought would be their last day of the trip. On the summit they were caught in a severe snow and lightning storm. Using their ice axes, they began to descend via the north face in full self-arrest position. Ken fell 800 feet down the mountain while Jean, not knowing his fate, continued down slowly and methodically towards him. Then, at one point during her descent, Jean fell 165 feet bouncing on rocks through a cliff band enduring massive trauma to her body. Listen to this episode to hear a story of extreme grit, tenacity and survival. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Buy Jean’s book at https://www.jeanmuenchrath.com Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Near-misses are greatly under-reported in general, yet they are plentiful. What leads them to be under-reported? Joel Reid, the Washington Program Director at the Northwest Outward Bound School and Steve Smith, from Experiential Consulting, chat with Ashley about why near-misses matter and the importance of reporting near misses in an institutional setting. You don’t want to miss this informative chat. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

We put together a survey in early February so we could get to know our listeners better. We want to know who you are and what you think of the show. Over 400 people filled out this survey and we gathered some good information. Listen in as Dustin from Podboarder and Ashley talk about the results and read some of the comments from fans. By filling out the February survey, you entered to win 1 of 3 prizes. 1. One year American Alpine Membership 2. Pair of Rocky Talkies 3. Aceso Hemp Prize Pack This episode is directed by Ashley Saupe and produced by Dustin at Podboarder. Thanks to the American Alpine Club, Rocky Talkies and Aceso for hooking up my listeners with awesome prizes. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

A fumarole is an opening in the earth which emits steam and gases such as carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, and hydrogen sulfide. The steam forms when superheated water boils as its pressure drops when it emerges from the ground. These holes can be very dangerous. Listen to episode 61 as Scott tells Ashley about his fall into a fumarole during a solo ski mo attempt on Mt Hood in Oregon. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, COROS and Desert Mountain Medicine. Win a prize package from our sponsors by taking our listener survey at: https://sharpend.typeform.com/to/F61rWth9 Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

After five consecutive years of producing the Sharp End Podcast, Steve Smith at Experiential Consulting turns the tables on podcast creator Ashley Saupe and interviews her! Listen as Ashley and Steve talk about a few incidents she's had in the backcountry, how she's managed them and why she is inspired to continue producing this podcast for her listeners. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Desert Mountain Medicine, Experiential Consulting, and Aceso Hemp. Did you know that January is National CBD Month? I’ve spent some time learning more about CBD and how to integrate into my daily life thanks to some friends at Aceso Hemp. Aceso uses the restorative power of plants to create highly targeted products, with lines that support Wellness, Calming, and Soothing. I’ve been using their topical balms (they have heat, cool, and soothing) for aches and injuries and the soothing blend of essential oils and hemp have really helped alleviate the pain. Check out how CBD can support your wellness routine with code SHARPEND for 25% off sitewide, at www.AcesoHemp.com

On the morning of September 5, Annie Weinmann and her climbing partner started up the North Chimney, a broad 500-foot slot that leads climbers to the Diamond, Colorado's premier alpine wall. Annie had done the North Chimney before and was comfortable climbing the easy terrain unroped and in approach shoes. But when she got slightly off-route, a foot slip led to a terrible tumble. In Episode 39 of the Sharp End, Annie tells Ashley what happened and how she survived a 200-foot fall, plus some fascinating insight into the circumstances that brought her to this point. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Tyler Willis and a friend were descending from a successful ascent of Mt. Owen in Grand Teton National Park. It was late in the day when they reached the Teton Glacier, which they had crossed without a problem early that morning. Just a few steps later, Tyler plunged into a hidden crevasse, an extremely rare accident for the Tetons. By the time climbers pulled him to the surface, he was hypothermic, and it wasn't until the next day that rangers could helicopter him to safety. Hear all about it in Episode 58 of the Sharp End. Visit Sharpendpodcast.com to find video footage from the rescue and information on recognizing and treating hypothermia. The Sharp End podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine, Suunto, and Minus33. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Brian Vines was a high school senior and a budding climber in the 1990s when he and some friends went to Sand Rock, Alabama, for a day of top-roping. On their last climb, a simple mistake led to a damaging ground fall. More than two decades later, Brian and Ashley look back at that day in Episode 57 of the Sharp End. After many years away from the sport, Brian has returned to climbing, and his 14-year-old son, J.T., now leads many of their climbs. But the lessons from that day at Sand Rock still guide their every move. The Sharp End Podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain, Suunto, Minus33, and Ski Babes. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Scott Reed and a friend trekked more than five miles into the mountains west of Denver to attempt a long, moderate ice climb during the short days of late December. At an elevation around 12,000 feet, they climbed several pitches and then, in high wind, decided to bail back down the route. Toward the bottom, Scott, age 23 at the time, pondered whether or not to rappel from just one small piece of protection and save a little money. As it turned out, his decision would be much more costly than he imagined. In Episode 56 of the Sharp End, Scott speaks with Ashley about his long fall, the incredible self-rescue back to their car, and the lessons he learned (including the value of satellite communication devices on remote climbs). The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine, Suunto, and Minus33. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Summit day on Mt. Rainier had just begun. Less than an hour out of high camp, carefully leading her team up a well-trodden boot track, Rita Hansen suddenly plunged into a crevasse. After falling more than 60 feet, she was completely buried by falling ice and snow. Amazingly, Rita was basically unharmed. But she couldn’t move. In episode 55 of the Sharp End, Rita shares the details of her 2007 accident and rescue, a story she has never told publicly before. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Four friends from all over the United States met in eastern Utah in February 2020 to go canyoneering. They were all experienced canyoneers and had done trips together before. As they exited Angel Cove Canyon by the final rappel of the day, Fiona, 33, was the last person down. In Episode 54 of the Sharp End, Fiona's three companions describe what went wrong with her rappel and share some stories about their remarkable friend. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Three friends set out for a popular waterfall hike on the north shore of Kauai in late December. A high-surf warning had been issued, but the hikers didn't expect their route to take them close to the beach. Plans change, however, and accidents sometimes sneak up on you. In Episode 53 of the Sharp End, Alexandra Williams tells Ashley how a series of events led them into a very dangerous situation. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional annual support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode is also supported by Mystery Ranch. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Denali mountaineering ranger and flight nurse Dave Weber returns to the Sharp End to talk COVID-19 and the issues related to outdoor recreation, first response to accidents, and staying sane during a tough stretch for outdoor adventurers. Don't forget to enter Mammut's big gear giveaway this month. Head to https://americanalpineclub.org/sharp-end-podcast to sign up. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. Support for this episode also was provided by Coros. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Hari Mix, a very experienced mountaineer, had planned a rare and difficult winter-season traverse of the White Mountains, the high, remote range separating California from Nevada. He had studied the weather forecasts carefully and packed the right gear, but when an intense storm struck the crest of the ridge, Hari's challenging outing became a struggle for survival. Learn what happened in episode 51 of the Sharp End! The Sharp End Podcast is sponsored by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Climbing is a big part of Meg Atteberry and John Luebbers' life together. John even proposed to Meg partway up a climb. So, what happened when the Colorado couple experienced a climbing accident together? In Episode 50 of the Sharp End, Ashley talks with Meg and John about their accident and how it affected both their climbing and their relationship. Don't worry, it ends well! The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode also was supported by Boulder Denim. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In this special live-audience recording of the Sharp End, Alaska climbing legend Charlie Sassara recalls an epic survival story and rescue from 2002. Sassara's climbing partner, Jack Tackle, was clobbered by rockfall, knocked unconscious, and broke his back high on the unclimbed north face of Mt. Augusta. Tackle regained consciousness and together they determined there was only one course of action: Sassara had to leave his partner tied to a tiny ledge, rappel off the mountain, and try to get help. Survival was far from assured...for either man. This heartfelt episode was recorded in front of a large audience at Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking in Anchorage in late December, at an event put on by the Alaska Section of the American Alpine Club. There's a Q&A session with the audience at the end. A note for listeners: The audio from this live recording has various stage and audience noise as well as occasional profanity. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional sponsorship for this episode from Kavu. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

On May 27, 2019, three experienced canyoneers—Becca, Eileen, and Justin—were descending the Middle Fork of Lytle Creek in California's San Bernadino Mountains. As the group completed the third rappel in the canyon, Becca moved through flowing water toward the anchor for the fourth rappel. Suddenly she slipped and disappeared over the edge of a towering waterfall. In Episode 48 of the Sharp End, Ashley speaks with all three of the canyoneers about this accident and how Becca survived, despite critical injuries and hypothermia at the bottom of a deep canyon. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support for this episode from Kavu. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Carbon monoxide, an odorless, colorless, and poisonous gas, can build up to dangerous levels inside a tent during or after cooking with a stove. Sharp End hostess Ashley Saupe had a personal scare with CO poisoning, and in Episode 47 she discusses her own experience and other people's close calls with Denali mountaineering ranger Dave Weber. This episode is packed with essential information for winter mountaineers or anyone else who camps in snowy conditions. Don't miss it! Photo by Greg Stafford (https://www.gregstaffordphotography.com). The Sharp End podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This episode was also sponsored by Kavu. The Sharp End is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Margie Root and her husband were attempting the classic Culp-Bossier Route up the steep north face of Colorado's Hallett Peak. When Margie broke a hold on the run-out fifth pitch, she fell at least 50 or 60 feet and sustained several injuries. Luckily, a group of good friends, including Leslie Gains-Germain, were climbing nearby. In Episode 46 of the Sharp End, Margie and Leslie (both expert climbers) explain how this group worked together to execute a fast and effective self-rescue. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Sherrie Trecker and a friend had just finished climbing a classic route on Cutthroat Peak in the North Cascades. It was a gorgeous day, and the descent started smoothly. But when they reached the snowy couloir leading down to the foot of the peak, it was much icier than expected. A slip led to sliding fall, and the snow was too hard for self-arrest. Sherrie slid hard into the rocks below. She was lucky and suffered relatively minor physical injuries from her long fall. But the psychological effects of the accident lingered for over a year. Episode 45 of the Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Suunto and the Colorado Outward Bound School. This show is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Dr. Leslie Drapiza had carefully planned a winter hike of Oregon's Mt. Defiance on Superbowl Sunday, expecting the 12-mile round trip to go as smoothly as her previous training climbs. But when she got off-route during the descent, one bad thing led to another. By the time she was rescued, Leslie had spent two nights out in the cold and snow. In episode 44 of the Sharp End, Leslie tells her story: how she got stranded, how she survived, and how she dealt with incident in the weeks and months that followed. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Suunto and Colorado Outward Bound School. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Andrew Smith from Texas dreamed of climbing big walls in Yosemite Valley. He had learned to climb traditional routes with an experienced mentor and had practiced aid climbing in a specially equipped gym. When he decided to try his first outdoor aid climb, he chose the nearby Wichita Mountains in Oklahoma. But things did not go as smoothly as he'd hoped. Andrew fell near the top of his climb, pulled out multiple pieces of protection, and nearly hit the ground. In episode 43 of the Sharp End, Andrew and Ashley talk through his preparation, the fateful climb, and what went wrong that day. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional sponsorship from Suunto and the Colorado Outward Bound School. This episode received additional support from Matador Adventure Travel Gear and Tribe Alpha. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In 2012, Mike Drake was still a young climber, but he and his partner were well prepared for the Nose of El Cap and felt ready to take the next step in their climbing. They made it more than 20 pitches up the route before Mike suffered a damaging fall off the notorious short crack above Pancake Flake. In this episode, Mike and Ashley talk through the accident and rescue, and Mike shares insights about the long road to recovery, both physical and mental. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Suunto and the Colorado Outward Bound School. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Casey Brown and a friend were trying a seldom-climbed route at a limestone crag in western Montana. A huge block pulled loose. He tumbled toward the ground. Somewhere along the way, his helmet shattered. He believes the helmet saved his life. In episode 41 of the Sharp End, Casey and Ashley debrief this accident and the ways climbers choose to use (or fail to use) their vital head gear. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Twenty years ago this month, Malcolm Daly and Jim Donini attempted a new route on Thunder Mountain in the Alaska Range. After Daly fell near the top of the climb, the ensuing rescue was one of the most dramatic in Alaskan mountaineering history. In episode 40 of the Sharp End, listen to Daly tell this legendary story in vivid detail. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support for this episode from Kavu, Colorado Outward Bound School, and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Stephen Leimgruber and his wife were wrapping up a day at Fortress Wall in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. He wanted to do just one more climb. Some warning lights were flashing: They were tired, it was getting dark, clouds were threatening rain. But, hey, he thought: It's a well-protected 5.8. What could go wrong? Find out what exactly happened, and what Stephen learned from it, in this episode. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Mike Zawaski and a friend were ski touring in the popular Jones Creek area of Colorado in mid-December. Mike started their descent first and stopped in what he thought would be a safe point, but a slab avalanche broke loose and swept him hundreds of feet down the slope, breaking his femur. In this episode, learn how even well-trained and well-prepared ski mountaineers can get caught in the wrong place at the wrong time. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Boulnd School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Denali mountaineering ranger and flight medic Dave Weber returns to the Sharp End to discuss the ins and outs of calling for a rescue: when to do it (and when not to), how to make the call and what to say, and how to prepare for a helicopter rescue. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club. Photo by Menno Boermans.