All Things Iceland

For episode fifty of the All Things Iceland podcast, I interviewed Kári Stefánsson, an Icelandic neurologist who is also the founder and CEO of deCode genetics. deCode is a biopharmaceutical company based in Reykjavík. Kári pioneered the use of, “population scale genetics to understand variation in the sequence of the human genome.” WIkipedia The discoveries from using this approach have helped with developing new drugs. Additionally, the discoveries have helped scientists to better understand cardiovascular disease, cancer, and schizophrenia, just to name a few. Additionally, the population scale approach has served as a model for other national genome projects around the world.  Kári’s Background Before founding  deCode, Kári Stefánsson served as a professor of Neurology at the University of Chicago. Later, he became the Chief of the neuropathology division at Harvard University. Since the founding of deCode, Kári has received many accolades. While I was curious to hear about his work, we spoke about his views on certain topics in Icelandic society. We also spoke about what he thought of Americans after living in the U.S. for more than 20 years, and, of course, his favorite Icelandic word or phrase. Kári shared his views on climate change, Donald Trump, and many other topics. The Video of Kári Receiving the William Allan Award in 2017 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EayPjFhNnw4 The Questions I Asked Kári Stefánsson What sparked your interest in studying genetics? Why did you start deCode Genetics and why did you choose to do it in Iceland? Throughout all of the years that you have been working on decoding human genetics, what finding(s) are you most proud of? Can you share why you chose to recreate the genome of the first Black man in Iceland. First, were some of the Icelanders surprised to find out that they are descendants of a black man? Second, can you provide some insight into why Iceland provides a unique environment to do this type of genome sequencing? Over the years you have been very vocal in the news about different issues  in Iceland. Do you think that because of your status as a highly respected scientist, that it is your responsibility to share your views on these matters or is it mostly from the point of view of a concerned citizen? In 2016, you announced that you could identify everyone in Iceland that had a high risk of getting cancer. You wanted to work with healthcare specialists to reach out to those people to alert them of the potential danger. However, there was push back. Even though, people had consented to having their genes analyzed, they had not consented to being alerted about possible health risks found in their genes. Has this situation changed at all? Meaning, have any laws changed to make this possible and/or has your opinion changed about contacting people? You mentioned to me that you live in the United States for over 20 years studying its natives. Did you find out anything fascinating and/or strange about us? What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase? I hope you enjoyed this interview with Kári Stefánsson. Let’s be social! Here is where you can connect with me on social media platforms: Instagram Facebook YouTube Twitter I hope you enjoyed listening to this interview. Make sure you are subscribed to the All Things Iceland podcast so you don’t miss new episodes. If the platform you are listening to this podcast on allows you to leave a review, please do so, if you haven’t already. Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta (og að lesa) og sjáumst fljótlega Thank you kindly for listening (and reading) and see you soon!

Today is a very special episode because in June of 2018, I launched the All Things Iceland podcast. A full year later, there are 47 episodes (48 if you include this one) and more than 60,000 downloads. I am incredibly grateful for all of the people that have listened to this podcast and for those who do so in the future. I thought it would be fun to do something a little different for this special occasion. Send In Your Questions For The Podcast I plan to publish an episode that is dedicated to answering your questions about Iceland. I will do my best to answer as many as I can. Send in your questions to [email protected] Why, How, and When I Started the Podcast To celebrate the one year anniversary of the All Things Iceland podcast, I dive into what sparked my interest in starting the show and how I went about launching it. This has certainly been an adventure figuring out the world of podcasting and I look forward to continuously evolving. All Things Iceland Podcast Announcements The publication schedule is changing. I will release two episodes a month rather than four a month. I am working on launching a new website and rolling out a new url. Random fact of the episode Some of you that follow my on Instagram might know where I record my episodes when I am doing them alone. For all of you that don’t, you might find kind of amusing that I record in my closet in my bedroom. Currently, the microphone that I use for when I am alone and when I interview people is the same. However, the location makes a huge difference in the sound quality. Because sound waves from my recordings are absorbed by my clothes, I end up with a cleaner sound. One day it would be awesome to build a home studio or at least have a space other than my closet to record. Until then, I am happy with the closet. Icelandic Word of the Day Til hamingju – congratulations Let’s be social! Here is where you can connect with me on social media platforms: Instagram Facebook YouTube Twitter Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

During this part of the interview, Andri provides some great insight into the current literature landscape in Iceland and the impact of literature from this country on the world. We start off this interview talking about Reykjavík being a UNESCO City of Literature. Andri is a great person to talk about this because he is the chairman of the board for the Reykjavík UNESCO City of Literature. Andri also shares he favorite pieces of Icelandic literature, his environmental advocacy work, his run for Presidency and, of course, his favorite Icelandic word or phrase. If you have not listened to part one, I highly recommend that you do so that you learn more about Andri. Some of the people the Icelandic authors that Andri recommend are Halldór Laxness, Auður Ava Ólafsdóttir, Sjón, Krístin Omarsdóttir and Neil Gaiman. He also recommended reading Njáls Saga and the Poetic Edda. The Questions I Asked Andri During This Episode 1. Reykjavík has been designated as a UNESCO City of Literature, and it is the first non-native English-speaking city to receive this title. Why is it that Reykjavík received this prestigious title? 2. What makes the literary culture in Iceland is so strong? 3. Can you provide some insight on the current literature landscape in Iceland? Are Icelanders still eager to publish and read Icelandic literature, especially in this age of social media and other technological distractions? 4. What are some places in the city that you recommend for people to check out if they are visiting, or live here, and want to learn more about Iceland’s rich literary history? 5. If a person wants to dive into Icelandic literature, where do you recommend that they start? 6. What are your favorite pieces of Icelandic literature? 7. Your book Dreamland: A Self-Help Manual for a Frightened Nation was the best-selling book in Iceland in 2006 and won numerous awards. It helped to raise Icelander’s interest in environmentalism in the country, specifically about the impact foreign aluminum smelting plants would have on Icelandic nature. Do you think that Icelandic writers today still have the ability to influence the nation in a way that you did with this book? 8. This is slightly off topic, but I think is a fascinating bit of information for the listeners of this podcast to know. You ran for Presidential office in Iceland in 2016. What motivated you to do that and what were the key issues you ran your campaign on? 10. What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase? Connect with Andri Facebook Twitter Instagram Email – [email protected] Let’s be social! Here is where you can connect with me on social media platforms: Facebook YouTube Instagram Twitter I hope you enjoyed listening to this interview. I release a new podcast episode every week. Make sure you are subscribed to the All Things Iceland podcast so you don’t miss new episodes. If the platform you are listening to this podcast on allows you to leave a review, please do so, if you haven’t already. Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta (og að lesa) og sjáumst fljótlega Thank you kindly for listening (and reading) and see you soon!

The history of the Icelandic government, also known as Alþingi (pronounced “Althingi”), dates back to the 900s. This episode breaks down the evolution of the government in this country from the very beginning to present day. The World’s Oldest Surviving Parliament In previous episodes, I have mentioned the Alþingi, which is the the Icelandic parliament. It was founded in 930 at Þingvellir, which is now part of the Golden Circle and is one of the most historically important sites in the country. Iceland claims that the Althingi is the oldest surviving parliament in the world. Because of the history and unique geology in the area, Þingvellir became a National Park on the 1000th year anniversary of the Althingi in 1930. In 2004, the site was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Because most of the settlers in Iceland during the 900s were Norwegian, their heritage greatly influenced the creation of their government. It seems that their main goal was to avoid a centralized authority or King, especially since that is what some of them had fled. Additionally, they wanted to integrate the Norwegian tradition of laws and legal assemblies (aka Þing). This resulted in Iceland forming a unique government. Þingvellir – Once The Gathering Place of the Alþingi The gathering of Parliament members in Iceland from 930 to 1800 was an open air assembly on the plains of Þingvellir. While all free men could attend the assemblies, it was Iceland’s most powerful leaders, known as goðar or chieftains, that decided on legislation and providing justice for any law related claims brought before them. While legislation was top of mind during these assemblies, they were also the main social event of the year. Farmers, craftsmen, travelers, storytellers, traders, and the families of many of these people attended. Temporary camps, called búðir, were set up in Þingvellir for these assembly events. The Icelandic Law Rock & Law Speaker Lögberg, which translates to Law Rock, was the center of the assembly gatherings. An interesting fact is that the exact location of the lögberg is unknown today. You might be thinking, how is that possible? It is not as if this huge rock just moved. But in reality, that might have happened. Some of you that have visited Þingvellir or have heard about it on this show, are aware that this is one of the areas in Iceland where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates are slowly shifting a part by 2cm each year. This area is known as a rift valley. Over the more than 1000 years of shifts in the geography have made it difficult to pinpoint exactly where the Lögberg was located. There are two possible locations but this will remain a mystery until someone is able to prove it. The lögsögumaður or lawspeaker had a seat on the Law Rock and this person was the official of the assembly. The assemblies were called to order and dissolved at the Law Rock. The lawspeaker, 39 Cheiftains that had their own districts and nine other members made up the Lögrétta, which was the legislative part of the assembly. Not surprisingly, this section of the Althingi was very powerful. They adopted new laws, dealt with legal conflicts, and granted exemptions to existing laws. The Althingi of the past also had a judicial function that listened to legal disputes. As the parliament evolved, judges were appointed by the chieftains in the Lögrétta (Court of Legislature). From Commonwealth to Being Ruled by A Monarch When the Althingi was formed, Iceland was set up as a commonwealth or a free state. In 1262, that came to an end because Icelanders submitted to the authority of Haakon IV, King of Norway. This happened under the terms of the gamli sáttmáli or Old Covenant. Like you, I wondered why would Icelanders give up their free state to be ruled by a monarch, so I dug a little deeper to find out. Before the signing of the covenant, there were civil disputes happening in the country. For about 44 years in the 13th century a family called the Sturlungs were one of the powerful families causing wars and violent conflicts among Chieftains. The main reason this was happening was because behind the scenes, the Norwegian King was trying to exert his influence through Icelandic family clans. The Sturlungs and Gissur Þorvaldsson were essentially agents of the Norwegian monarch and they were wreaking havoc on Icelandic society. This time period came to be known as the Age of the Sturlungs. The tales are so epic that a saga called the Sturlunga Saga was written. The end of this treacherous age happened when the Old Covenant was signed. Iceland thus became unified with Norway. Under the Old Covenant, goðars no longer ruled the country and all of the executive power was shifted over to the Monarch. However, the Lögrétta, or Court of Legislature, continued to function and it shared legislature power with the king. Any laws that were adopted had to be approved by the Monarch. If the Monarch decided to initiate legis

I had the pleasure of sitting down with Andri Snær Magnason, an award winning writer of novels, poetry, plays and films. He is also a very active environmental activist. We chatted about his fascinating literary career, how he chooses topics to write about, and so much more. Because we talked for about one hour and forty five minutes, I decided to break up the episode into two parts. You’ll hear me say in the beginning that I want to speak with Andri about Reykjavík being a UNESCO City of Literature. However, we don’t get to that until the second part because he had so many interesting stories to tell. Some of them include J.R.R. Tolkein, J. Robert Oppenheimer, and the Codex Regius, just to name a few. Also, I am excited to announce that Andri’s latest book, The Casket of Time has been published in English and is now available for your reading pleasure. It is a young adult Sci-fi novel that weaves together time travel and an environmental crisis for what looks like a captivating read. I’ve been reading The Story of the Blue Planet, another one of his books. When I am finished with that one I’m looking forward to diving into the one above and his other books. Below is a picture of the Bónus supermarket pig that Andri and I talk about during the interview. The Questions I Asked Andri During This Interview 1. You come from a family of doctors and nurses. What made you become interested in literature and in becoming a writer? 2. What inspires you to write your poetry and books? 3. The Icelandic Sagas and many other literary works from various authors, including yourself, have intrigued people all over the world. Why do you think people find Icelandic literature to be so fascinating? Connect with Andri Snær Facebook Twitter Instagram Email – [email protected] Let’s be social! Here is where you can connect with me on social media platforms: Facebook YouTube Instagram Twitter I hope you enjoyed listening to this interview. I release a new podcast episode every week. Make sure you are subscribed to the All Things Iceland podcast so you don’t miss new episodes. If the platform you are listening to this podcast on allows you to leave a review, please do so, if you haven’t already. Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta (og að lesa) og sjáumst fljótlega Thank you kindly for listening (and reading) and see you soon!

This episode might be short but it gives you a good overview of Icelandic foods to try while in Iceland. Before I jump into this list, I have to inform you that I have been a plant based eater, usually referred to as vegan, for the last five years. However, I did taste all of these foods before I made the transition. The foods on this list are very much a part of the Icelandic food culture and it would be difficult to talk about Iceland without mentioning them. I just want all of my vegetarian and vegan listeners to know that there are a lot options for you in Iceland and I am working on putting together a video and podcast episode about those options. Icelandic Hot Dog Iceland’s hot dog has become a must have food while visiting. Most tasters of it agree that is deserving of its reputation.  Its mix of lamb, beef and other sustainably raised meat has become a crowd pleaser. You can top them with fried onions, raw onions, and condiments, such as tomatsosa (ketchup), plysusinnep (a sweet hot dog mustard) and remolaði, which mixes mayo, capers, mustard, and herbs. It is served on a warm bun.  You can buy a quality hot dog in any gas station, but the most popular place to get one is at the famous hot dog stand downtown called Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur. Skyr The next on the list is skyr, which is a cultured dairy product made in Iceland that has the consistency of strained yogurt. Surprisingly, it is classified as cheese but I consider it yogurt. It is packed with protein, vitamins and minerals, and is naturally fat free. Its texture, taste and diet friendly nutrition have made it popular around the world. There is a good chance that Siggi’s skyr or some other Icelandic foods brand is available in your grocery store right now.  When visiting Iceland, you will be able to have some from different brands. The amount of flavors here is pretty incredible. Ice Cream A dairy product that rivals skyr in popularity in Iceland is ice cream. There is no such thing as ice cream season in this country. Even when there is a snow storm outside, people will still head over to the ice cream shop for their favorite ice cream. There are several ways that Icelandic people like to enjoy their ice cream. One is having a swirl of vanilla ice cream on a cone dipped in a warm sauce, such as caramel, chocolate, liquorice and many others. The sauce coats the ice cream and forms a thin hard shell of candy around it. Another way to eat ice cream in Iceland is in a cup mixed with candies of your choice. While they do have different sizes to choose from, I feel like a “small” is huge and would be more than enough for two people or one person who has a big appetite and really loves ice cream. The ice cream stores are called ísbuðin or literally ice cream store. There are plenty of them around and are easy to spot because they usually have an illustration of ice cream on a cone in the window of the store. There are some places that offer vegan ice cream in Iceland but my ultimate favorite is Brynjuís in Kopavogur, a neighborhood in the Reykjavík area. If you are lactose intolerant or a vegan but you still want creamy and delicious ice cream, definitely try their vegan ice cream. You can have it soy or coconut based. The coconut based one is absolutely divine! Lamb Icelandic people have been raising and eating lamb for centuries. Eating lamb is a huge part of their culture and they have eaten it in many different forms. Some of the most notable is slow roasted, in a stew or eating cooked lambs head. Another is pickled lamb’s head but that isn’t something that everyone is willing to taste. Icelandic people normally eat that during Þórrablót, which a festival that I talk about during my Holidays, Celebrations and Traditions episode. This Icelandic foods festival is popular among the natives. Icelandic Candy, Including Liquorice Like ice cream, candy holds a special place in Icelandic people’s hearts and stomach. Many grocery stores have a complete aisle dedicated to candy. On Saturday, loose candy that you scoop into bags yourself are half off in supermarkets. You will see grownups and kids packed in the aisles so they can get scoops of their favorite candy on a Saturday.  While I am not much of a fan of liquorice, there is no denying that it is ridiculously popular here. I am pretty sure Icelandic people would revolt if their precious liquorice was ever taken from them. To me,  liquorice on its own is not bad, but the kind with salty powder on it is too intense for my palate. The powder is called salmiak salt or better known as ammonium chloride. Yes, you heard that right. They put ammonium chloride on their candy and love it! It gives the candy an astringent salty taste that can make your tongue feel like it is numb or sting your mouth. The first time I tried it, I thought I was being poisoned so I spit the candy out immediately. This is not to scare you but I do think you should be aware of what you are eating before putti

To kick off my comeback to podcasting, I am sharing an awesome interview I did with Andie Fontaine, the News Editor of The Reykjavík Grapevine. Andie is originally from Baltimore. They have been living in Iceland since 1999 and has Icelandic citizenship. We dive into what it has been like for Andie to learn Icelandic, their views on immigration, coming out as transgender and many other fascinating topics. By the way, we did this interview at the office of the Reykjavík Grapevine, so there is some background noise at times. The Questions I Asked Andie Fontaine During the Interview When did you move to Iceland and what motivated you to come here? Did anything about Icelandic culture, the people or the landscape surprise you? What was it like learning Icelandic? What was the biggest challenge you faced with adjusting to life here? You are currently the news editor for the Reykjavík Grapevine, a popular publication here that is in English. What made you want to join the Reykjavík Grapevine team? After the many years that you have lived here, do you feel like you are Icelandic? What is something about Iceland that people in other countries, the U.S. or wherever would be surprised to know or learn about? Recently, you announced on Facebook that you have been officially registered in the Trans Team Process in Iceland. What has coming out as trans in Iceland been like for you? Do you feel that Iceland has a supportive and positive attitude toward people who identify as trans? What advice do you have for people who are interested in moving to Iceland? Is there anything that you miss about the United States? What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase? Let’s be social! Here is where you can connect with me on social media platforms: Facebook Instagram Twitter I hope you enjoyed listening to this interview. I release a new podcast episode every week. Make sure you are subscribed to the All Things Iceland podcast so you don’t miss new episodes. If the platform you are listening to this podcast on allows you to leave a review, please do so, if you haven’t already. Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta (og að lesa) og sjáumst fljótlega Thank you kindly for listening (and reading) and see you soon!

Akureyri, also known as the capital of the north in Iceland, is the fourth largest municipality in Iceland. Reykjavík, Hafnarfjörður and Kopavogur are larger. This town of about 18,500 people is small in comparison to Reykjavík, but it is bustling with life. Akureyri’s History This area that Akureyri is located was originally settled in the 9th century by a Norse Viking named Helgi magri (the slim) Eyvindarson. However, you don’t see the name Akureyri mentioned in any court records until 1562. That year a woman was sentenced there for committing adultery. During the 17th century, Danish merchants set up their trading operations in the town  during summer because the town has an amazing natural harbor and the surrounding area is quite fertile. Even though, this area was being used by merchants and people were living there, it wasn’t granted its municipal charter by the Danish king until 1786. This act by the king was intended to help the town grow into an urban area. However, it was deemed unsuccessful because the population didn’t grow beyond the 12 people that lived there. In 1836, Akureyri lost its municipal status, but did get it back in 1862. The town’s great port conditions and agricultural region helped it to grow its population. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=080yUIby1_4 Geography and Climate Most people assume that the farther north you go in Iceland, the colder the weather. That is not necessarily the case for Akureryi. It is located at 65 degrees North and 18 degrees West. Even though, the Arctic Circle is only about 60 kilometers north of the town, the climate there is still quite mild and is classified as subarctic.  Surprisingly, the temperatures in the summer can reach up to 25 degrees Celsius or 77 degrees Fahrenheit. The average temperature in the winter is 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit. The relatively warm climate, at this latitude, allows for the botanical gardens to flourish without greenhouses. It is in one of the longest fjords in the country and is surrounded by beautiful mountains that reach between 1000 – 1500 meters high. The high mountains shield the town from strong winds. Akureyri is quite a cloudy place and it barely sees any sunshine between November and February. However, it has much lower precipitation than in the south of Iceland. On average, it gets about ⅕ the amount of rain that Vík in Mýrdál, the popular town in the south, gets throughout the year. World War II Akureyri was one of the three air bases used by the Norwegian-British squadron that flew Northrop N-3PB bombers during World War II. The other two air bases were in Reykjavík and Budareyri. The squadron flew from Akureyri from April 25th, 1941 until April 5th, 1943. They also operated Catalina flying boats from the town. These boast protected convoys between the U.S., the U.K., and Murmansk in northern Russia from attack by German submarines. Commercial Business in Akureyri As I mentioned in the All Things Iceland podcast episode about Halldór Laxness, many Icelandic people started moving from the countryside in Iceland to urban areas. While commerce and service industries were the most popular employers in the Akureyri in the 20th century, the fishing industry started to dominate in the early 21st century. As I had mentioned earlier in this episode, Akureryi has amazing port conditions. What I mean by that is that their harbour remains ice free all year long, which is incredible and convenient for fishing merchants. This town is home to two out of the five largest fishing companies in Iceland. The ice free port certainly has played a role in that. Additionally, the largest brewery in Iceland Vílfilfell and Sjúkrahús Akureyrar, one of the two major hospitals in Iceland, are in Akureyri. How To Get to Akureyri If you are planning to visit Akureyri, I highly recommend it. I had the pleasure of going there in December and it was absolutely lovely.  You might be wondering what is the best way to get there, and the good news is that you have a few options. If you own or rent a car in Iceland, you can easily drive there on route 1, the main road that goes around the country. It takes about five hours to get there by car from Reykjavík. However, you can take a flight, a bus or get there by boat. The town is home to one of the four international airports in the country. Air Iceland Connect has several flights per day from Reykjavík to Akureyri, and it only takes about 30 minutes. During the summer, you will see cruise ships docked there and a decent amount of tourists roaming around. Bus number 57 operated by Strætó goes from Reykjavík to Akureyri. SBA Norðurleið also has buses between these two places in the summer. What To See & Do in Akureyri Whether you go in the summer or winter,  there are plenty of things for you to do. I have split up my lists of what to do into summer, winter and all year, because I think it is the best way to help you plan your visit. During summer you

Christmas in Iceland is a lovely time. Everyone is merry and there are lots of fun events happening. I purposefully decided not to include Christmas activities that not holiday related on this list. You won’t hear me say, hunt for Northern Lights, go on a Glacier Walk, ride an Icelandic horse and so on  during this episode. While those activities are awesome, they can be experienced when it is not Christmas in Iceland.  Because the Christmas season in Iceland lasts for about a month, you will have lots of time to tick off some of the activities on  this list. 1. Try Icelandic Christmas Beer (jólabjór) I am a big fan of tasty beers and Iceland has a thriving craft beer culture. In fact, one of my favorite episodes of this podcast is my interview about Iceland’s complicated and fascinating beer history with Óli the brewmaster at Ægisgarður brewery. Icelandic brewers start to offer their special Christmas brews around mid November. It is a glorious time and there are such tasty varieties. My two favorite are Egill’s Malt Jólabjór and Einstök´s Icelandic doppelbock. I highly recommend trying those and others while you are. I know that some Icelandic companies are exporting their beer, so you might find some Icelandic Christmas beer at a  distributor near you. 2. Laufabrauð Next up is eating Laufabrauð, or leaf bread. Some people even call it snowflake bread. It is at type of bread that looks like a thin, flat cake. Geometric or leaf like patterns are cut into it and it is then fried quickly in fat or oil. It is only served during this time and it is yummy. Some people make it at home and many buy them from bakeries. Many of the supermarkets in Reykjavík carry them, but if you can get your hands on some fresh, homemade laufrabrauð, you are in for a treat. 3. Ice Skating in Ingólfstorg Ice skating, in general, is an activity that you can do in Iceland at any time of the year at the Laugadalur sports center. However, ice skating outside in Ingólfstorg or Ingólfs Square is only reserved for the Christmas season. It kind of reminds me of ice skating in Rockefeller Center in NYC, expect it is not as extravagant and it might even be a smaller rink. 4. Eat some Christmas cookies – Piparkökur It wouldn’t be Christmas for me in Iceland if I didn’t eat some piparkökur or pepper cookies. I know it might sound strange to want to eat cookies with pepper in them but don’t let that deter you. They taste similar to gingerbread cookies. Hopefully, that helps anyone that is on the fence with trying them. Boxes of them are sold in the supermarkets in Iceland. They are seriously delicious. I probably gain a few pounds during the holidays just because of these cookies. 5. Visit a Christmas Market Like many communities that celebrate Christmas, Iceland has Christmas markets that feature locally made crafts and food. They are great places to find a unique gift for yourself or someone else. 6. Eat at a Christmas Buffet – Jólahlaðborð Many restaurants in Iceland prepare special Christmas buffet menus. It is a tradition for most Icelandic people to get together with friends and family to chow down at a Christmas buffet. While the traditional fare, such as potatoes prepared in different ways, lamb, pickled herring, red cabbage, green peas and so on are served at the buffet, some modern dishes do show up as well. 7. Try Skatta As I had mentioned in my Icelandic traditions, holidays and celebrations episode, December 23rd is one of the smelliest days of the year in Iceland. Many Icelandic people are enjoying their once a year indulgence in skatta, or fermented skate. The putrid smell wafts through air, crawls up your nostrils and pokes your brain. It is a smell that lingers in people’s clothes and is one you won’t forget easily. Many  people don’t eat it in their house because they don’t want the smell in their furniture and any other items in their house that might hold onto smells. I’ve never tried Skatta but I have heard that it can feel like it is burning your mouth. Even if I were not vegan, I wouldn’t be interested in trying it. However, to each their own and this is a very popular Christmas activity among Icelanders. So, feel free to give it a try if you plan to be in Iceland on December 23rd. 8. Try Rjúpa Every year, Icelandic hunters go out to shoot rjúpa, also known as the Rock ptarmigan. This game bird changes the colors of its feathers with the season. It is brown in the summer and white during the winter. Many Icelandic people eat this bird for Christmas. My mother in law cooks the bird for Christmas and then saves the bones to make a soup for New Years eve dinner. I know that having this bird for Christmas is quite important for many people here. It is quite expensive to get it in Iceland. If you are in town and want to try, it seems that a restaurant called 3 Frakkar serves it. There might be others as well. A quick Google search of ptarmigan in Icelandic restaurants could provide more options.

In the last episode, I went over Iceland’s noteworthy traditions, holidays and celebrations. I recommend checking it out, if you haven’t already. This week, I am expanding on the Christmas holiday celebrations that I spoke about in that episode. While most countries that celebrate Christmas only have one Santa that comes to town, Iceland somehow ended up with 13! During this episode, I will talk about where these 13 Santa Clauses or Yule Lads come from, when they come to town, what they do while in town and include some other interesting characters that show up during Christmas. Are They Icelandic Yule Lads or Santa Claus? While Yule lad is the most appropriate term for these 13 mountain dwellers, Santa is a term that has continuously been used throughout the years, so I will use them interchangeably in this episode. In fact, they are called Jólasveinn in Icelandic, which translates to Yule Lad or Santa Claus. Where do Iceland’s Yule Lads Come From? When it is not Christmas time, Iceland’s 13 Santas live in a cave in the mountains with their mother Grýla, as well as a gigantic black yule cat and their mother’s 3rd husband, Leppalúði. This might sound cozy but Grýla is a giant troll that has an insatiable appetite for bad children and her husband shares the same pleasure in eating misbehaved kids. Grýla likes to make stew out of the bad children that she collects. Additionally, their yule cat is a vicious monster that eats people that have not received any new clothes to wear before Christmas Eve. I think anyone growing up in a household like that would be kind of strange, and the 13 Yule lads are certainly not an exception. They each have their own personality and a specific mischievous act that they do when visiting houses in Iceland during Christmas. In fact, their names describe the special thing that they do while visiting. As I mentioned in the episode about Icelandic holidays, traditions and celebrations, the first Yule Lad comes to town on December 12th and the last one arrives on December 24th. Back in the day, they weren’t that nice but as the years have passed, they have become milder in nature and have even started to leave gifts for children. Mischievous Yule Lads Turn Into Gift Giving Santa Clauses When it is time for the Santa Clauses to start coming to town, Icelandic children leave one of their shoes in the window before going to sleep on each of the 13 nights. Good children will find a little gift in their shoe when they wake up in the morning. However, misbehaved children will receive a potato, which could be rotten. Below, you can see the spelling of the names of the Yule Lads in Icelandic. I have also included the days that each lad arrives and the day when they leave town. Ok, now let’s jump into the names of each of the 13 Icelandic Santa Stekkjarstaur 1.Stekkjarstaur – Sheep Cote-Clod or also known as “stiff legs” – He is said to have such stiff legs that he walks as if they are peg legs. He harasses sheep, and steals milk by suckling the ewes on a farm. (12 December to 25 December) Giljagaur 2. Giljagaur – Gully Gawk- Hides in gullies, waiting for an opportunity to sneak into the cowshed and steal milk. (13 December to 26 December) Stúfur 3. Stúfur – Stubby – Abnormally short. Steals pans to eat the crust and leftovers in them. (14 December to 27 December) Þvörusleikir 4. Þvörusleikir – Spoon-Licker Steals Þvörur (a type of a wooden spoon with a long handle) to lick. Apparently, he Is extremely thin due to malnutrition. (15 December 28 December) Pottaskefill 5. Pottaskefill – Pot-Scraper – Steals leftovers from pots and licks them clean. (16 December to 29 December) Askasleikir 6. Askasleikir – Bowl-Licker – Hides under beds waiting for someone to put down their “askur” (a type of bowl with a lid used instead of dishes), which he then steals and licks clean (17 December 30 December) Hurðaskellir 7. Hurðaskellir – Door-Slammer – Likes to slam doors that are left open, especially during the night. This usually results in waking people up people in the house. (18 December 31 December) Skyrgámur 8. Skyrgámur – Skyr-Gobbler – He really loves skyr, which is a type of yogurt made in Iceland that is packed with protein. Not surprisingly, he steals skyr whenever he gets a chance. (19 December to 1 January) Bjúgnakrækir 9. Bjúgnakrækir – Sausage-Swiper – He hides in the rafters and snatches sausages that are being smoked. (20 December 2 January) Gluggagægir 10. Gluggagægir – Window-Peeper – He looks through windows in search of things to steal. (21 December 3 to January) Gáttaþefur 11. Gáttaþefur – Doorway-Sniffer – Has an abnormally large nose and an acute sense of smell which he uses to locate laufabrauð, cakes and cookies. As a side note, laufabrauð, translated as leaf bread in Icelandic. It is a traditional thin Icelandic bread eaten at Christmas time. T

During this week’s episode, I give an overview of the rich history of Icelandic literature and  culture. Before I jump in, I have two announcements. Two Important Announcements The first is that today, February 20th, 2019, is the last day for you to enter the All Things Iceland podcast giveaway.  If you haven’t entered already, you can do so by clicking on the image that says the All Things Iceland podcast giveaway below. I will pick the winners at random tomorrow and contact them The second announcement is that I am taking a little break from podcasting, but only for a little while. I get so much joy from doing this and I definitely plan on continuing to do it. One of the main reasons is that I am taking a pause is because I will be traveling for about 2 months. It will be difficult to find the space and time to record, edit and publish weekly episodes. During that time, I will have some vacation time, my mother will have surgery, and I will start a new job. The show will restart again on April 24th, 2019. I know it sounds like a long time away but time passes by so quickly. It is hard to believe that I have been doing this podcast weekly for the past 8 months! Also, I have been reading your survey results and I am so excited to create shows and conduct interviews based off of your suggestions. Ok, now let’s jump back into to the topic of Iceland’s literary culture. Icelandic Sagas – The Beginning of Icelandic Literature History Icelandic literature is just as unique as its language, which I talked about in episode two of this show. I’ll start out with lcelandic literature from Medieval times and end with the modern day literary environment in the country. As I have mentioned in previous episodes, the sagas, which were written between the 9th and 13th centuries, are the most revered pieces of Icelandic literature. They were written in Old Norse tell tales of the people that migrated to Iceland, Viking voyages to unknown lands and the history of settlers. The sagas have withstood the test of time. They have been inspirational sources for shows, movies, plays and books that depict life in Scandinavia during those times. Njáls Saga For instance, Njáls Saga, which takes places between 960 and 1020, is full of drama. There is betrayal, murder, ongoing feuds, omens and prophetic dreams. It is teeming with excitement. It also gives insight into the culture during that time. While all of the sagas are fascinating, I specifically point out this one because its Iceland’s longest and most developed saga. If you want to check it out, I have a link to the  saga database that has free versions of the popular sages in Icelandic and English. https://www.amazon.com/Njals-Saga-Penguin-Classics/dp/0140447695/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr= While it hasn’t been confirmed, there is a theory that the sagas served as a way of hiding and preserving the view of pagans, which was threatened by the onslaught of Christianity in the country Most of the authors of the sagas are unknown, but they are thought to be somewhat true accounts that were passed on orally until they were written down. Some people theorize that women might have been some of the authors. However, there is no evidence to support that. Plus, all of the known saga writers are male. However, many poetry verse stanzas are attributed to Icelandic and Norwegian women, such as Gunnhildr konungamóðir, and Þórhildr skáldkona. Icelandic Eddaic & Skaldic Poetry Eddaic and skaldic poetry were also written during medieval times.  These types of Icelandic literature helped to influence the country’s appreciation of poetry. The main difference between the two types of poetry is that skaldic refers to poetry written by Norwegian and Icelandic poets, who known as skalds. While the Eddas mentioned mythical events or told stories, skaldic poetry was used to honor nobles or kings, as well as to commemorate or satirize important events. It is helpful to know that there are two types of Edda poems. The Elder or Poetic Edda are Old Norse poems and stories that originated in the 10th century. They were first written down in Iceland in the 13th century. The Younger Edda, or the Prose Edda (Snorri’s Edda), was written by Snorri Sturluson in the early 13th century. Stories about the Norse Gods and other mythical creatures are featured in these poems. Religious Icelandic Literature While the sagas hold a special place in Icelander’s hearts, and for many around the world, poetry started to dominant just a few centuries later. One famous poet during this time was Hallgrímur Pétursson. He was a priest and poet that wrote the Passion Hymns during the 1600s. The hymns are 50 poetic texts that follow Christ entering the Garden Gethsemane to his death and end with his burial. Because Christianity was quite popular in Iceland during this time, the hymns became an important part of Icelandic religious expression. The famous church Hallgrim

I was fortunate to have the opportunity to chat with Alda Sigmundsdóttir, an Icelandic author and journalist that has her thumb on the pulse of Icelandic society. Even though Alda was born in Iceland, she grew up in Canada and lived in a few different countries. The insight that she shared with me about Iceland and its people was enlightening and sometimes surprising. We had such a great time chatting, that we ended up talking for an hour. In order to keep these episodes relatively short, I have broken this interview up into two parts. During this episode, which is part 1, you will hear about the challenges Alda faced when she moved back to Iceland, how insular Icelandic society is, how she decides what to write about, what the most important thing tourists should keep in mind when they visit Iceland and what Icelandic people really think of visitors to their country. Questions I asked Alda during this interview: Even though you were born in Iceland, you lived in Canada and some other countries for many years. What was it like moving back to Iceland? The topics of your books include giving advice to visitors of Iceland, gripping fiction, mythology, culture and issues in Icelandic society. With so many changes happening in Iceland, how do you decide what to write about? It has been a little over a year since you published “The Little Book of Tourists in Iceland: Tips, tricks and what Icelanders really think of you.” What do you think are still the most important things tourists should keep in mind when they visit Iceland? Have Icelandic people’s views about tourists changed since writing that book? Alda’s Books Mentioned in the Interview: The Little Book of the Icelanders: 50 Miniature Essays on the Quirks and Foibles of the Icelandic People The Little Book of Tourists in Iceland: Tips, tricks, and What the Icelanders Really Think of You Living Inside the Meltdown: Ten People Share Their Experience of the Icelandic Economic Collapse Connect with Alda Sigmundsdóttir: Alda’s website Instagram Facebook I hope you enjoyed listening to part 1 of this interview. Part 2 will be released next week, so make sure you are subscribed to the All Things Iceland podcast so you don’t miss it. If the platform you are listening to this podcast on allows you to leave a review, please do so, if you haven’t already. Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega (Thank you kindly for listening and see you soon)! Disclosure: Please note that some of the links above are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase after clicking through the link. I recommend these companies because they are helpful and useful, not because of the small commissions I make if you decide to buy something through my links. Please do not spend any money on these products unless you feel you need them or that they will help you achieve your goals.

Iceland is popular now but before 2010, hardly anyone came to see this spectacular place. It is fascinating now that you can’t find a “must-see” destination list without this amazing country being featured. While there are many reasons why this small, island nation located in the Atlantic ocean is so popular, I am sharing my top six. I split this list into two parts to keep the episodes relatively short. Also, the list is in no particular order because I believe that each of the reasons that I share continue to have a major impact on the country’s popularity. Below are three out of six. 1. Nature in Iceland Craters from a volcano I can wax poetic about the diverse and beautiful landscape of Iceland all day. It really is an enchanting place that will surprise and delight you. I like to this of this country as a foreign planet because it is so unlike anywhere else on earth. The dark, long winters are a wonderland of snow and ice. Powerful wind storms during this time of the year show you just how intense mother nature can be in this country; and, if you are lucky, you might even get a delightful Northern Lights show. During the summer, everything springs to life and you can enjoy 24 hours of day light for a few months. This land of contrasts gives you ample opportunity to enjoy loads of activities in each season. Some of the most notable natural wonders in Iceland are bubbling hot springs, numerous glaciers, active volcanoes, stunning lava rock, black sand beaches, colorful mountains that can be seen in the highlands, vibrant green moss as far as the eye can see, iceberg filled glacier lagoons, countless waterfalls, and remote wilderness. The power of Icelandic nature usually just affects people who live on the island or those that are visiting. However, in 2010, Eyjafjallajökull, an active volcano, erupted. Strong winds pushed the ash from the volcano into the direction of major flight routes, which interrupted airline travel for people around the world. It is funny that this eruption is why kicked off the tourism boom. Iceland is popular now because people were so curious to know more about this tiny island that could disrupt the whole airline industry. Sheep in Iceland photo by Topich On the land and in the sea surrounding the island, live fascinating animals. If you drive on the ring road (the main one that goes around the country) during the summer, you will come across free roaming sheep and lamb. They outnumber the Icelandic population two to one! You are also likely to spot majestic Icelandic horses grazing or galloping in open fields. The cunning arctic fox can be found throughout Iceland, but the largest population of them can be found in the West fjords. If you are wiling to head into very remote regions in the east, you might spot a reindeer. About 370 bird species can be found in the country but their presence and whereabouts depends on their breeding habits and season. The adorable Puffin is a popular bird that many people flock to see in Iceland (pun intended ;-)), but it is only possible to seem them between May and August, when they are breeding. Luckily, you can see these fascinating birds in different parts of the country. I’ve had the privilege of viewing Puffins up close in the West Fjords. So cute! Puffin in Iceland – photo by pascal-mauerhofer In the vast sea surrounding the island, various whale species and seals have been spotted. Summer time is your best bet for whale watching, so just keep that in mind when you plan to visit. The country’s nature and animals have been popular among nature lovers and adventure enthusiasts circles for decades. Over the last few years, the internet, specifically blogs and social media have helped to spread the word about just how amazing nature is in the land of fire and ice. 2. Icelandic People are a Big Part of Why Iceland is Popular Icelandic people in 1927 Many people think of Iceland as the land of the Vikings. While invading foreign lands is a part of their history, Icelandic people are much different now. Their family-centered culture mixes modern European living with traditional holidays and celebrations. One of the most notable aspects of the people is their intriguing language. If you think it sounds strange, you are not alone. Icelandic people cherish their mother tongue and are working hard to preserve it. If you are curious about the history of the Icelandic language, check out episode two of this podcast There is a rich culture of storytelling through written word and literary text. People the world over have heard about or read the famous sagas. There are many tales of hidden people, trolls and all sorts of mystical creatures that may exist. It seems as though creativity courses through Icelander’s veins. There is no doubt that Iceland is popular because of the artistic talent of its natives. If you are a fan of music, you might have heard of some famous Icelandic artists, such as Björk, Si

As I mentioned in part one of the “6 Reasons Why Iceland is so Popular” episode, this amazing country has many reasons for why people are flocking to it. In this episode, I share my final three out of six reasons. Make sure you check out the first three reasons I shared in the last episode of the All Things Iceland podcast. 4. Iceland is a Convenient Place To Catch a Connecting Flight If you are traveling from North America to mainland Europe and vice versa, Iceland is in the middle of those places, which makes it a very convenient place for airline companies to stop and refuel, as well as offer connecting flights to many destinations. Iceland, as a hub for connecting to other flights, has made travel to many places more accessible to people. Even though connecting via Iceland’s Keflavík airport has been used by travelers for over 50 years, it is only in the last 20 years that Iceland has experienced many travelers leaving the airport to explore the country. Up until the 1980s, the number of tourists to Iceland did not exceed 80,000 people in a single year. In fact, the travels of Icelandic people usually exceeded the number of tourists back then. Keflavík Airport by WhatsOn It wasn’t until the 2000s that the number of tourists began to increase. In the early 2000s, Iceland received around 300,000 visitors, which was more than the number of people living on the island! By 2016, that number had sharply risen to almost 1.8 million foreign visitors. # of Tourist to Iceland vs Icelandic Population Iceland is still a great place for planes to stop and refuel, and it is used by many airlines that want to have connecting flights for their customers. However, it is now a must-see destination, and foreigners are more than happy to leave the airport and discover the country’s unique features. Iceland is so popular because it has been made easy for people to visit. 5. Movies and shows filmed in Iceland The amount of movies and shows filmed in Iceland is astonishing.  I might be stretching it here, but I believe that most people that live in the Western world, and who actively go to the movie theater and/or watch television, have watched at least one of the films listed below: Batman Begins Die Another Day Fast & Furious 8 Flags of Our Fathers Interstellar Judge Dredd Lara Croft: Tomb Raider Letters from Iwo Jima Noah Oblivion Prometheus Star Trek into Darkness The Secret Life of Walter Mitty Rogue One: A Star Wars Story This is not an exhaustive list of all of the films that have been shot in Iceland but it gives you a taste of major motion pictures that have captured footage in Iceland’s diverse and remarkable nature. The stunning scenery showcased in these films has inspired people to visit. Plus, who wouldn’t want to go to a destination that feels like you have been transported to outer space? 6. Iceland is so popular because of Strategic Marketing The promotion of Iceland as a destination has been infused with creativity, humor and a lot of strategic planning.  According to the Promote Iceland Act, “the objective of the act is to strengthen Iceland’s image and reputation, enhance the competitive position of the Icelandic undertakings on foreign markets and to attract foreign investment and tourists to the country.” While that is a boring statement, how the country has gone about creating ways of attracting investments and visitors is far from a snore fest. Photo – Inspired by Iceland Inspired by Iceland is the official marketing arm for the country as a destination. They developed their building blocks for marketing and that serves as the guiding light for how they present the country to the world. In the PDF of their building blocks, the first line on the list of what they want to keep in mind when they promote the country is, “Iceland is not for everyone!” So many countries want to market to everyone but when they do that, it can be so easy for them to lose focus on what they represent. Because the Inspired by Iceland team accepts that the country is not for everyone, they attract their core target audience. Iceland is so popular because word of mouth about it has spread quickly. These people, like myself and many others, fall in love with the country and become super fans. They spread the word about how amazing the country is and why it is worth it to visit and/or live here. The content that Inspired by Iceland produces is always fun, educational and features Iceland’s stunning nature. You can check out a funny video that they recently produced called the Hardest Karaoke Song in the World. It has over 2 million views on Youtube. It  attempts to teach visitors the Icelandic language and show the seven spectacular regions of the country. Another super successful marketing initiative that has appealed to visitors is Icelandair’s stopover option. The airline Icelandair allows for its passengers to stopover in Iceland for up to seven nights at no addi

Aldís Amah Hamilton, who is half African American and half Icelandic, shares what it is like living in Iceland as a person of color. Aldís and her friend were the first people of color in the country to be admitted to and graduate from the country’s National Academy of Theater. She is a working actor and flight attendant in Iceland. It was fascinating to chat with her about her experience growing up with physical features that are different than what you typically associate with being Icelandic. Aldís was so pleasant to chat with. Even though this was my first time meeting her, the conversation flowed like two friends just chatting about life. At the end, she shares a few funny Icelandic idioms, so stay tuned to hear them. Here is the winter episode that I mentioned in the introduction of the podcast. The Questions I Asked Aldís Amah You are half African American and half Icelandic, what has it been like growing up as a person of mixed race in Iceland? Have you ever encountered racism in Iceland or someone treating you differently because of your skin color? As a flight attendant for an Icelandic airline, you encounter a lot of people. Are people surprised to hear that you are Icelandic? Do you feel like Icelandic society accepts people of mixed race who have grown up in the country as Icelanders or are they still considered as “other”? What do you feel is the biggest challenge for a mixed race child growing up in Iceland? What has your experience been like as an actor in Iceland? What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase? Let’s be social! Here is where you can connect with me on social media platforms: Facebook Instagram Twitter I hope you enjoyed listening to this interview. I release a new podcast episode every week. Make sure you are subscribed to the All Things Iceland podcast so you don’t miss new episodes. If the platform you are listening to this podcast on allows you to leave a review, please do so, if you haven’t already. Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta (og að lesa) og sjáumst fljótlega Thank you kindly for listening (and reading) and see you soon!

During part 2 of my interview with Alda Sigmundsdóttir, an Icelandic author and journalist that has her thumb on the pulse of Icelandic society, Alda shares some eye opening information. Alda talks extensively about Iceland’s economic meltdown, scandals that people outside of the country might not be aware of, a place in Iceland that is close to her heart and her favorite Icelandic word or phrase. While the two parts of this interview can stand alone as individual episodes, I very much recommend listening to both parts. Questions I asked Alda during this interview about Icelandic Society: In your book “Living Inside the Meltdown”, you interviewed Icelandic people about the economic crash in Iceland in 2008. How did you go about choosing who you wanted to interview? Was it difficult to get people to cooperate? What do you feel are some important topics being discussed in Iceland that people who live outside of the country or those that do not understand the language would not be aware of? Have you ever received a funny or strange reaction to any of your books? Do you have a favorite area or place in Iceland that you enjoy visiting? What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase? You are quite active on social media and you have done many speaking engagements. Where can people interact or get in touch with you? Alda’s Books Mentioned in the Interview: Living Inside the Meltdown The Little Book of the Icelanders: 50 Miniature Essays on the Quirks and Foibles of the Icelandic People The Little Book of the Icelanders in the Old Days Connect with Alda Sigmundsdóttir: Alda’s website Instagram Facebook I hope you enjoyed listening to part 2 of this interview. Make sure to check out Part 1, if you have not already. I publish a new episode of the All Things Iceland podcast every week. Make sure you are subscribed so you don’t miss new updates. If the platform you are listening to this podcast on allows you to leave a review, please do so, if you haven’t already. Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega (Thank you kindly for listening and see you soon)! Disclosure: Please note that some of the links above are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase after clicking through the link. I recommend these companies because they are helpful and useful, not because of the small commissions I make if you decide to buy something through my links. Please do not spend any money on these products unless you feel you need them or that they will help you achieve your goals.

I had the opportunity to chat with Dr. Guðmundur A. Guðmundsson, who has a MSc and PhD degree in Ecology, and is a researcher at the Icelandic Institute of Natural History. During the interview you will hear me say Mummi when I speak to Dr. Guðmundsson. It is a nickname commonly used in Iceland for men with the name Guðmundur. Some of the topics I discussed with Mummi during our interview for the All Things Iceland podcast include the fascinating birds that can be found in Iceland, the connection between birds and Icelandic culture, and the best time to see birds migrating to the country. It was an enlightening conversation and I hope you enjoy listening to it. Questions I asked Mummi: What sparked your interest in studying birds? What is your role at the Institute of Icelandic Natural History? I read that about 350 species of birds have been recorded in Iceland. Why is it that so many birds are finding their way to this island? How many of them are nesting here? Are their birds that are most commonly found in Iceland? Is there a connection between birds and Icelandic culture? Is there a best season or specific months to go bird watching in Iceland? Do you recommend any areas in Iceland for people to watch birds? Have you seen any effect on bird migration and nesting due to climate change? Are there any birds that you have observed in Iceland that have strange or fascinating habits? Do you have a favorite bird that you like to watch or study? What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase (I like to ask this during all of my interviews. It can be related to birds but it doesn’t have to be)? Please remember to subscribe to the podcast so you don’t miss the new episodes that I upload every week. If you are listening to this podcast on a platform that allows a reviews, please leave a review. Goða skemmtun og sjáumst fljótlega (Enjoy and see you soon)!