Episode 18
Restaurant SAN’s unique take on Korean flavors earns global attention with Asia’s 50 Best extended list, Michelin star
This article is by Woo Ji-won and read by an artificial voice. [INTERVIEW] Less than two years after opening in Seoul, restaurant SAN is already making its mark — ranking No. 54 on the extended list of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants and earning one Michel...
Korea JoongAng Daily - Daily News from Korea · WOO JI-WON
March 29, 20264m 39s
Show Notes
This article is by Woo Ji-won and read by an artificial voice.
[INTERVIEW]
Less than two years after opening in Seoul, restaurant SAN is already making its mark — ranking No. 54 on the extended list of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants and earning one Michelin star this month.
"I never expected such honors would come this fast," said chef Jo Seung-hyun of SAN in an email interview with Korea JoongAng Daily. "It is very meaningful, as it feels like our standards and the direction of our team have been validated."
SAN is a French-influenced Korean fine dining establishment located in Gangnam District, southern Seoul, offering a course menu priced at 350,000 won ($233). It also received the "One to Watch Award" as part of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants this year — the first time the award has gone to a Seoul-based establishment since 2017.
Despite the comparisons and high expectations, chef Jo said he feels "no pressure at all."
"I previously worked with chef Anh Sung-jae at The French Laundry, and he was the one who introduced me to the Korean dining scene. Naturally, comparisons may arise, but I believe SAN has its own direction," he said.
After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, Jo worked at the Michelin three-star French restaurant The French Laundry in the United States and then at the three-star La Maison Troisgros in France before serving as chef de cuisine at Benu, a Michelin three-star restaurant in San Francisco led by Korean-American chef Corey Lee.
SAN, named after his son, distinguishes itself in Seoul's fine-dining scene by reinterpreting Korean ingredients through Jo's French culinary training.
"The foods I grew up eating, combined with the experiences and techniques I gained abroad, come together to create a version of Korean cuisine interpreted through my own perspective," he said, adding that "creating Korean cuisine that feels familiar yet new is SAN's greatest distinction and appeal."
At the restaurant, for example, the glutinous rice paste that forms the base of gochujang (fermented chili paste) is made using French-style shrimp stock to add depth of flavor, and traditional braised fish dishes are reinterpreted using marinade and brown butter cooking techniques.
However, chef Jo said the restaurant is becoming increasingly "Korean."
"As the restaurant continues to develop, I believe it is actually becoming closer to Korean cuisine," he said, adding that "nearly all of our dishes have been centered on Korean ingredients from the beginning."
Many dishes are also distinctive, including "tofu flower" and a soy sauce marinated crab rice bowl.
"'Tofu flower' was inspired by Chinese techniques and Pyongyang naengmyeon [buckwheat noodles in cold broth]. The tofu is shaped like noodles, and buckwheat aroma is added to the broth to create something both familiar and new."
For the soy sauce marinated crab rice bowl, the idea began by adjusting the viscosity of the sauce so it lingers longer on the palate. Rice with a pleasing texture and an egg yolk puree are added to create a new experience.
Jo's journey into cooking began in elementary school during a class, when he made a simple seaweed soup.
"I asked my mother many questions while preparing the ingredients, and I remember being recognized as the most prepared student in class. Experiencing the difference in taste before and after adding soy sauce sparked my interest in cooking."
Later, on a teacher's recommendation, he entered a culinary high school and began cooking in earnest, which naturally led him to dream of studying abroad. He went on to work at some of the world's most famous restaurants, gaining valuable lessons that now inform his own kitchen.
"At The French Laundry, I learned professionalism and diligence; at La Maison Troisgros, I learned French cuisine and European culture; and at Benu, I learned the attitude and responsibility required as a chef."
Despite all that, Jo believes the most important element in cooking is "the basics."
"I belie...
[INTERVIEW]
Less than two years after opening in Seoul, restaurant SAN is already making its mark — ranking No. 54 on the extended list of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants and earning one Michelin star this month.
"I never expected such honors would come this fast," said chef Jo Seung-hyun of SAN in an email interview with Korea JoongAng Daily. "It is very meaningful, as it feels like our standards and the direction of our team have been validated."
SAN is a French-influenced Korean fine dining establishment located in Gangnam District, southern Seoul, offering a course menu priced at 350,000 won ($233). It also received the "One to Watch Award" as part of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants this year — the first time the award has gone to a Seoul-based establishment since 2017.
Despite the comparisons and high expectations, chef Jo said he feels "no pressure at all."
"I previously worked with chef Anh Sung-jae at The French Laundry, and he was the one who introduced me to the Korean dining scene. Naturally, comparisons may arise, but I believe SAN has its own direction," he said.
After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, Jo worked at the Michelin three-star French restaurant The French Laundry in the United States and then at the three-star La Maison Troisgros in France before serving as chef de cuisine at Benu, a Michelin three-star restaurant in San Francisco led by Korean-American chef Corey Lee.
SAN, named after his son, distinguishes itself in Seoul's fine-dining scene by reinterpreting Korean ingredients through Jo's French culinary training.
"The foods I grew up eating, combined with the experiences and techniques I gained abroad, come together to create a version of Korean cuisine interpreted through my own perspective," he said, adding that "creating Korean cuisine that feels familiar yet new is SAN's greatest distinction and appeal."
At the restaurant, for example, the glutinous rice paste that forms the base of gochujang (fermented chili paste) is made using French-style shrimp stock to add depth of flavor, and traditional braised fish dishes are reinterpreted using marinade and brown butter cooking techniques.
However, chef Jo said the restaurant is becoming increasingly "Korean."
"As the restaurant continues to develop, I believe it is actually becoming closer to Korean cuisine," he said, adding that "nearly all of our dishes have been centered on Korean ingredients from the beginning."
Many dishes are also distinctive, including "tofu flower" and a soy sauce marinated crab rice bowl.
"'Tofu flower' was inspired by Chinese techniques and Pyongyang naengmyeon [buckwheat noodles in cold broth]. The tofu is shaped like noodles, and buckwheat aroma is added to the broth to create something both familiar and new."
For the soy sauce marinated crab rice bowl, the idea began by adjusting the viscosity of the sauce so it lingers longer on the palate. Rice with a pleasing texture and an egg yolk puree are added to create a new experience.
Jo's journey into cooking began in elementary school during a class, when he made a simple seaweed soup.
"I asked my mother many questions while preparing the ingredients, and I remember being recognized as the most prepared student in class. Experiencing the difference in taste before and after adding soy sauce sparked my interest in cooking."
Later, on a teacher's recommendation, he entered a culinary high school and began cooking in earnest, which naturally led him to dream of studying abroad. He went on to work at some of the world's most famous restaurants, gaining valuable lessons that now inform his own kitchen.
"At The French Laundry, I learned professionalism and diligence; at La Maison Troisgros, I learned French cuisine and European culture; and at Benu, I learned the attitude and responsibility required as a chef."
Despite all that, Jo believes the most important element in cooking is "the basics."
"I belie...